JP7248976B2 - Double circular knitted fabric and clothing using said double circular knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a double circular knitted fabric and a garment using the double circular knitted fabric.

In recent years, there has been an increasing demand for circular knitted fabrics as outer materials due to their good comfort such as stretchability and breathability. However, although the circular knitted fabric has excellent stretchability and breathability, it is generally a fabric that is difficult to create elasticity. There was a problem such as a decrease in air permeability. In addition, when used for jackets, etc., a lining is used to improve comfort, but since the lining is generally a woven fabric, stretchability and breathability are hindered, resulting in a heavier product.

In Patent Document 1, as a method for producing a double circular knitted fabric excellent in tension and stiffness, when knitting a double circular knitted fabric with a double-sided circular knitting machine having cylinder needles and dial needles, only cylinder needles or only dial needles are disclosed. Only the multifilament yarn made of polytrimethylene terephthalate with a hot water shrinkage rate of less than 10% is fed to the yarn feeder for knitting, and the yarn feeder for knitting or tucking with both the cylinder needle and the dial needle is heated. Double circular knitting in which only high shrinkage polyester multifilament yarn having a water shrinkage of 15% or more is fed and knitted, and the interknitting ratio of the high shrinkage polyester multifilament yarn is 20% or more and 60% or less of the knitted fabric. A method of making ground is described.

In addition, in Patent Document 2, a straight yarn of a synthetic multifilament yarn having no crimps of 33 decitex or less is used as the knitting yarn of the back layer of a three-layer laminate fabric that is easy to wear and easy to move, and It is described that only a single circular knitted fabric with a jersey structure having 5,500 to 12,000 stitches per 6.45 cm ² is used.

Japanese Patent No. 4306870 Japanese Patent No. 4805408

However, the double circular knitted fabric manufactured by the method described in Patent Document 1 has a high shrinkage polyester multifilament yarn with a hot water shrinkage of 15% or more, and the front and back surfaces are tightened in the thickness direction, so the density is high. The eyes become heavy. In addition, since the low-shrinkage polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament yarns that make up the front and back surfaces stand out from the knitted fabric, the smoothness of the skin surface (back surface) is low, and when used for jackets, etc., it will get caught on the lining. is necessary.

Moreover, the single circular knitted fabric of the three-layer laminate fabric described in Patent Document 2 is used as a backing material, and has the disadvantage that it is too thin to be used alone as a clothing fabric.

The present invention has been made in view of such problems of the prior art, and its object is to provide a circular knitted fabric with appropriate stiffness and stiffness, which is required when used for jackets and the like. To provide a double circular knitted fabric having stretchability and breathability and capable of sewing a lightweight outerwear without using a lining by smoothing the back (skin) surface, and clothing using the double circular knitted fabric. to do.

In the double circular knitted fabric of the first invention of the present application, knit stitches made of synthetic fiber multifilament processed yarn and / or synthetic fiber spun yarn constitute 60% or more of the total knit stitches on the surface of the knitted fabric, The knitted stitches that make up the back of the are all made of synthetic multifilament raw silk, and 50% or more of the raw silk has a total fineness of 40 to 100 decitex, a single yarn fineness of 5 to 10 decitex, and a boiling water shrinkage of 15 to 25%. It is characterized by being a high shrinkage yarn.

The second invention of the present application is a double circular knitted fabric according to the first invention of the present application, characterized in that the sum of the average friction coefficients in the longitudinal direction and the lateral direction of the back surface of the double circular knitted fabric is 0.4 or less. be.

The third invention of the present application is the first or second invention of the present application, characterized in that the sum of the variation rates of the average friction coefficients in the longitudinal direction and the transverse direction of the back surface of the double circular knitted fabric is 0.05 or less. It is a double circular knitted fabric.

The fourth invention of the present application is the synthetic fiber of any one of the first to third inventions of the present application, wherein the back surface of the double circular knitted fabric is a high shrinkage yarn and a synthetic fiber having a total fineness 20% or more and 60% or less thinner than the high shrinkage yarn. The double circular knitted fabric is characterized by being composed of multifilament raw silk.

A fifth invention of the present application is a double circular knitted fabric according to any one of the first to fourth inventions of the present application, characterized in that the knit stitches on the back side of the double circular knitted fabric are evenly arranged in the course direction. be.

A sixth invention of the present application is the double circular knitted fabric according to any one of the first to fifth inventions of the present application, characterized in that the air permeability is 50 cm ³ /cm ² ·sec or more.

A seventh invention of the present application is characterized in that, in any one of the first to sixth inventions of the present application, the well density is 30 to 60 wells/2.54 cm and the course density is 30 to 70 courses/2.54 cm. It is a double circular knitted fabric.

The eighth invention of the present application is the double circular knitted fabric according to any one of the first to seventh inventions of the present application, characterized by having a basis weight of 130 to 270 g/m ² .

A ninth invention of the present application is a jacket using the double circular knitted fabric of any one of the first to eighth inventions of the present application.

In the double circular knitted fabric according to the present invention, the surface is composed of synthetic fiber multifilament and / or synthetic fiber spun yarn for 60% or more of the total knit stitches, and the back surface is composed entirely of synthetic fiber multifilament raw silk, and More than 50% of the synthetic fiber multifilaments on the back side are composed of high shrinkage yarns. By adopting such a structure, the double circular knitting makes it possible to sew a lightweight outerwear without using a lining because the surface expresses the surface feeling necessary for outerwear such as a jacket, while the back surface is smooth. land can be obtained.

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing a circular knitted fabric with a jersey weave. FIG. 2 is an organization chart showing knitting patterns of double circular knitted fabrics of Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 of the present invention. FIG. 3 is an organization chart showing a knitting pattern of a double circular knitted fabric according to Example 2 of the present invention. FIG. 4 is an organization chart showing a knitting pattern of a double circular knitted fabric according to Example 3 of the present invention. FIG. 5 is an organization chart showing a knitting pattern of a double circular knitted fabric of Example 4 of the present invention. FIG. 6 is a knitting diagram showing a knitting pattern of a double circular knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1 of the present invention. FIG. 7 is a knitting diagram showing a knitting pattern of a double circular knitted fabric of Comparative Example 3 of the present invention.

Embodiments of the present invention are described below.
In the double circular knitted fabric of the present invention, knit stitches made of synthetic fiber multifilament processed yarn and / or synthetic fiber spun yarn constitute 60% or more of the total knit stitches on the surface of the knitted fabric, and the back side of the knitted fabric is composed of knit stitches. All of the knitted stitches are composed of synthetic multifilament raw silk, and 50% or more of the raw silk is a high shrinkage yarn with a total fineness of 40 to 100 decitex, a single yarn fineness of 5 to 10 decitex, and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 15 to 25%. is. If the knit stitches made of synthetic fiber multifilament processed yarn and/or synthetic fiber spun yarn account for less than 60% of the total knit stitches on the surface of the knitted fabric, the ratio of raw silk is too high, and the surface has a strong gloss. It protrudes too much and is not suitable for use as a jacket.

More specifically, the yarns used on the surface of the double circular knitted fabric of this embodiment are preferably synthetic fiber multifilament textured yarns and/or synthetic fiber spun yarns. Synthetic fiber components include polyester synthetic fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate, and polyamide synthetic fibers such as nylon 6 and nylon 66, and these components are laminated side-by-side. no problem.

As the shape of the synthetic fiber multifilament textured yarn, known yarns such as false twisted textured yarn, air mixed yarn, and air entangled yarn can be used. It is not particularly limited.

As the synthetic fiber spun yarn, known yarns such as ring yarn and MVS yarn can be used, and the yarn is not particularly limited, but MVS is preferably used for the purpose of anti-pilling. Also, synthetic fiber spun yarn may contain natural fibers such as cotton, linen, and wool without any problem.

The back side of the double circular knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably composed only of synthetic multifilament raw silk, and 50% or more of the raw silk has a total fineness of 40 to 100 decitex, a single yarn fineness of 5 to 10 decitex, and boiling water shrinkage. A high shrinkage yarn with a modulus of 15-25% is preferred.

If the ratio of the high-shrinkage yarn on the back side is less than 50%, the fabric will not shrink sufficiently during dyeing, and the unevenness of the surface will increase, making it difficult to obtain smoothness and lacking in stiffness. When emphasizing elasticity, the ratio of high-shrinkage yarn is preferably 100%. ~70%, more preferably 50-67%.

If the total fineness of the highly shrinkable yarn on the back side is less than 40 decitex, the fabric will not shrink sufficiently during the dyeing process, resulting in insufficient elasticity. If the total fineness exceeds 100 decitex, the basis weight becomes too heavy. Therefore, the total fineness of the highly shrinkable yarn is preferably 40 to 100 decitex, more preferably 50 to 95 decitex, still more preferably 60 to 90 decitex.

If the single filament fineness of the highly shrinkable yarn on the back side is less than 5 decitex, the fabric will not shrink sufficiently during the dyeing process, resulting in insufficient elasticity. If the single yarn fineness exceeds 10 decitex, the fabric becomes too hard. Therefore, the single filament fineness of the highly shrinkable yarn is preferably 5 to 10 decitex, more preferably 5 to 9 decitex, still more preferably 5 to 8 decitex.

If the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the high-shrinkage yarn on the back side is less than 15%, the fabric will not shrink sufficiently during the dyeing process, resulting in insufficient elasticity. If the boiling water shrinkage ratio exceeds 25%, the fabric becomes too hard and air permeability decreases. Therefore, the boiling water shrinkage of the high shrinkage yarn is preferably 15 to 25%, more preferably 17 to 25%, and still more preferably 17 to 23%.

It is preferable that the sum of the average coefficients of friction in the longitudinal and transverse directions of the back surface of the double circular knitted fabric of the present invention is 0.4 or less. If the sum of the average coefficients of friction exceeds 0.4, slippage is poor when putting on or when putting the sleeves on, and wearability deteriorates. Therefore, the sum of the average friction coefficients is preferably 0.4 or less, more preferably 0.39 or less, and still more preferably 0.38 or less.

The sum of the variability of the average coefficient of friction in the longitudinal and transverse directions of the back surface of the double circular knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 0.05 or less. If the sum of the coefficients of variation of the average friction coefficients exceeds 0.05, the feeling of being caught when the sleeve is put on is strong, and the wearability is deteriorated. Therefore, the sum of the variation rates of the average friction coefficients is preferably 0.05 or less, more preferably 0.045 or less, and still more preferably 0.04 or less.

The back surface of the double circular knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably composed of high-shrinkage yarn and synthetic multifilament raw yarn having a total fineness 20% or more finer than the high-shrinkage yarn. By making the total fineness of the synthetic fiber multifilament thinner by 20% or more than the high-shrinkage yarn, it is possible to obtain a light feeling and moderate stretchability. However, if the total fineness of the synthetic multifilament raw silk is thinner than the high-shrinkage yarn by more than 60% (too thin), the back surface tends to have unevenness. If the synthetic fiber multifilament raw silk has a total fineness of less than 20% and is thinner (relatively thicker) than the high-shrinkage yarn, the basis weight will be heavy. Therefore, the total fineness of the synthetic fiber multifilament is preferably 20 to 60% finer than the high shrinkage yarn, more preferably 20 to 50% finer, and even more preferably 20 to 40% finer.

It is preferable that the knit stitches on the back side of the double circular knitted fabric of the present invention are evenly arranged in the course direction. High smoothness can be obtained by arranging the knit stitches evenly in the course direction. The uniform arrangement of the knit stitches in the course direction means that the size of the knit stitches in the well direction is the same for all courses as shown in FIG. In order to arrange the knit stitches evenly in the course direction, it is most preferable to use a jersey stitch, but even in a structure in which two feeders form one course, such as the structures shown in FIGS. can be done. By arranging the knit stitches evenly in the course direction, an equal force is applied to the yarn forming the knit stitches, so that the knit stitches have the same degree of floating and high smoothness can be obtained. In order to obtain high smoothness, it is also effective to keep the fineness difference between adjacent knit stitches in the course direction within 5%, and not to knit tuck stitches with the yarn forming the knit stitches on the back side.

The air permeability of the double circular knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 50 cm ³ /cm ² ·sec or more. If the air permeability exceeds 200 cm ³ /cm ² ·sec, the air permeability is too good and is not suitable for use as a jacket. Therefore, the air permeability of the double circular knitted fabric is preferably 50 to 200 cm ³ /cm ² ·sec, more preferably 50 to 190 cm ³ /cm ² ·sec, and more preferably 50 to 180 cm ³ /cm ² ·sec. is more preferable.

Preferably, the double circular knitted fabric of the invention has a well density of 30-60 wells/2.54 cm and a course density of 30-70 courses/2.54 cm. If the well density and course density are lower than the above range, the feeling of firmness and elasticity will be reduced, and conversely, if the well density and course density are higher than the above range, the basis weight will become too heavy. After the fabric is knitted by adjusting the knitting machine and knitting conditions to the desired conditions, the final adjustment of the number of wells and the number of courses is carried out in the dyeing process to finish the target knitting density.

The knitting machine is not particularly limited as long as it is a double circular knitting machine, but in order to obtain the desired knitting density, a double circular knitting machine of 22 gauge or more is preferable, and a 28 gauge or more is more preferable.

The dyeing method can be processed by a conventionally known dyeing method. In addition, incidental processing at the dyeing stage includes water-repellent processing, antifouling processing, water-absorbing processing, antibacterial processing, deodorizing processing, deodorizing processing, flame-retardant processing, and the like. It is preferable that these incidental processes are applied as appropriate according to the intended aim.

The basis weight of the double circular knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 130 to 270 g/m ² . If the weight per unit area is less than 130 g/m ² , the fabric needs to be thinned, resulting in a reduced feeling of firmness. If the weight per unit area exceeds 270 g/m ² , the garment will be too heavy when sewn.

The present invention will be specifically described below in accordance with examples. It goes without saying that the present invention is not limited to the following examples. The method for measuring each physical property value in the examples of the present invention is as follows.

(1) Average Friction Coefficient Measured using a surface tester KES-FB4 (manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.) based on the KES texture system. Under an environment of 20 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65%, a 20 × 20 cm square test piece is loaded with a tension of 20 gf / cm and attached to the above tester, and a piano wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm is attached to a 5 × 5 mm square. 10 contacts are wound in a flat shape, the contact is pressed against the test piece with a force of 50 gf, and the contact is moved horizontally at a constant speed of 0.1 cm / sec to measure the coefficient of friction. bottom. The coefficient of friction in the vertical and horizontal directions of the test piece is measured by the above method, and the arithmetic average value of the coefficients of friction measured three times each in the vertical and horizontal directions is taken as the average coefficient of friction. The sum of average coefficients of friction means the average coefficient of friction in the longitudinal direction plus the average coefficient of friction in the transverse direction.

(2) Variation rate of average friction coefficient Measured using a surface tester KES-FB4 (manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.) based on the KES texture system. Under an environment of 20 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65%, a 20 × 20 cm square test piece is loaded with a tension of 20 gf / cm and attached to the above tester, and a piano wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm is attached to a 5 × 5 mm square. 10 contacts are wound in a flat shape, the contact is pressed against the test piece with a force of 50 gf, and the contact is moved horizontally at a constant speed of 0.1 cm / sec to measure the coefficient of friction. bottom. The coefficient of friction in the vertical and horizontal directions of the test piece is measured by the above method, and the arithmetic average value of the coefficients of friction measured three times each in the vertical and horizontal directions is taken as the average coefficient of friction. The variation rate C (%) of the average friction coefficient is obtained as follows. Now, if each measurement value of the friction coefficient is X (the first measurement is X1, the second measurement is X2, and the third measurement is X3), the average friction coefficient is a, and the number of measurements is n, then
C = [[(X1-a) ² /(n-1)+(X2-a) ² /(n-1)+(X3-a) ² /(n-1)]/a]×100
is required. The sum of the variation rate of the average friction coefficient is the sum of the variation rate of the average friction coefficient in the longitudinal direction and the variation rate of the average friction coefficient in the transverse direction.

(3) Air permeability Air permeability (cm ³ /cm ² ·sec) was determined according to JIS L 1096:2012 8.26.1 A method (Fragile type).

(4) Fabric weight Based on JIS L 1096:2013 8.3, the fabric weight (g/m ² ), which is the mass per unit area of the test piece, was determined.

<<Example 1>>
Polyester raw silk of 56 decitex 24 filaments is used for the knitted fabric double-sided yarn of 4 yarn feeders F1, F3, F7, and F9 of the knitting structure consisting of a total of 12 yarn feeders shown in the knitting diagram of FIG. 84 decitex 12 filament polyester raw silk high shrinkage yarn (boiling water shrinkage rate 20%) is used for the yarn constituting the back surface of the knitted fabric, and 110 decitex 48 for the remaining 6 yarn feeders F4, F5, F6, F10, F11, and F12. A 100% polyester circular knitted fabric with a popcorn pattern on the front side and a flat back side was knitted with a 28 gauge double-sided circular knitted fabric using a filament woolly textured yarn. This gray fabric is dyed according to the normal polyester circular knit fabric dyeing method, finished to 44 wells/inch, 54 courses/inch, the surface processed yarn ratio is 60%, and the back surface raw silk is 50% with a total fineness of 84. A double circular knitted fabric of Example 1 of the present invention was obtained, which was a highly shrinkable yarn of decitex, single filament fineness of 7 decitex, and had a weight per unit area of 166 g/m ² . Tables 1 to 3 show the measurement results of the yarn usage and physical properties of the double circular knitted fabric of Example 1.

<<Example 2>>
A knitting structure consisting of a total of 12 yarn feeders shown in the knitting diagram of FIG. 84 decitex 12 filament polyester raw silk high shrinkage yarn (boiling water shrinkage rate 20%) for yarn and F11, F12 knitted fabric back surface yarn, 84 decitex 36 filament for knitted fabric surface yarn of 3 yarn feeders F5, F7, F9 110 decitex 48 filament woolly textured yarn is used for the remaining 3 yarn feeders F6, F8, and F10 as yarns constituting the surface of the knitted fabric, and a 28-gauge double-sided circular knitted fabric with a block pattern on the surface and a flat shape on the back is circular knitted. organized the ground. This gray fabric is dyed according to the normal polyester circular knit fabric dyeing method, finished to 43 wells/inch, 36 courses/inch, the surface processed yarn ratio is 75%, and the back surface raw silk is 75% with a total fineness of 84. A double circular knitted fabric of Example 2 of the present invention, which is high shrinkage yarn of decitex, single filament fineness of 7 decitex, and has a basis weight of 175 g/m ² , was obtained. Tables 1 to 3 show the measurement results of the yarn usage and physical properties of the double circular knitted fabric of Example 2.

<<Example 3>>
Polyester raw silk of 56 decitex 24 filament is used as the knitted fabric backside constituent yarn of 2 yarn feeders F1 and F6 of the knitting structure consisting of a total of 10 yarn feeders shown in the knitting diagram of FIG. 84 decitex 12 filament polyester raw silk high shrinkage yarn (boiling water shrinkage rate 20%) is used for the knitted fabric back surface yarn, and 220 decitex 72 filament woolly processed heathered yarn (cation 73% ), using 88 decitex 72 filament woolly processed heathered yarn (50% cation) for the remaining two yarn feeders F4 and F9, and using a 28 gauge double-sided circular knitted fabric with an uneven pattern on the surface and a flat shape on the back. A circular knitted fabric was knitted. This gray fabric is dyed according to the usual polyester circular knit fabric dyeing method, finished to 54 wells / inch, 42 courses / inch, the processed yarn ratio on the surface is 100%, and the raw silk on the back is 66.7% in total. A double circular knitted fabric of Example 3 of the present invention having a fineness of 84 decitex, a single filament fineness of 7 decitex, a high shrinkage yarn, and a basis weight of 199 g/m ² was obtained. Tables 1 to 3 show the measurement results of the yarn usage and physical properties of the double circular knitted fabric of Example 3.

<<Example 4>>
Polyester raw silk of 56 decitex and 24 filaments was used as the yarn constituting the back surface of the knitted fabric of 4 yarn feeders F3, F7, F11, and F15 of the knitting structure consisting of a total of 16 yarn feeders shown in the knitting diagram of FIG. 84 decitex 12 filament polyester raw silk high shrinkage yarn (boiling water shrinkage rate 20%) for F12 and F16 knitted fabric back surface constituent yarn, 88 decitex 72 filament for knitted fabric surface constituent yarn of 4 yarn feeders F1, F5, F9 and F13 Woolly processed heathered yarn (50% cationic) is used, and 135 decitex 60 filament woolly processed heathered yarn (70% cationic) is used for the remaining 4 yarn feeders F2, F6, F10, and F16 to form the surface of the knitted fabric. A circular knitted fabric having a twill pattern on the front side and a flat shape on the back side was knitted. This gray fabric is dyed according to the normal polyester circular knit fabric dyeing method, finished to 42 wells/inch and 34 courses/inch, the surface processed yarn ratio is 100%, and the back surface raw silk is 50% with a total fineness of 84. A double circular knitted fabric of Example 4 of the present invention, which is high shrinkage yarn of decitex, single filament fineness of 7 decitex, and has a basis weight of 185 g/m ² , was obtained. Tables 1 to 3 show the measurement results of the yarn usage and physical properties of the double circular knitted fabric of Example 4.

<<Comparative example 1>>
84 decitex 36 filament woolly textured yarn is added to the knitted fabric double-sided yarns of 4 yarn feeders F1, F8, F15 and F22 of the knitting structure consisting of a total of 28 yarn feeders shown in the knitting diagram of FIG. 6, 4 yarn feeders F3, F10, 110 decitex 48 filament woolly processed yarn on the back side of the knitted fabric of F17 and F24, and the remaining 20 yarn feeders F2, F4 to F7, F9, F11 to F14, F16, F18 to F21, F23, F25 to F28 on both sides of the knitted fabric 84 decitex 48 filament woolly textured yarn was used as the constituent yarn, and a circular knitted fabric with a honeycomb pattern on the front side and a flat shape on the back side was knitted with a double-sided circular knitted fabric of 28 gauge. This gray fabric is dyed according to the usual dyeing method for polyester circular knitted fabric, finished to 45 wells/inch and 49 courses/inch, the processed yarn ratio of the front and back sides is 100%, and the basis weight is 158 g/m ² . A double circular knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1 was obtained. Tables 4 to 6 show the measurement results of the yarn usage and physical properties of the double circular knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1.

<<Comparative Example 2>>
Polyester raw silk of 56 decitex 24 filaments is used for the knitted fabric double-sided yarn of 4 yarn feeders F1, F3, F7, and F9 of the knitting structure consisting of a total of 12 yarn feeders shown in the knitting diagram of FIG. 33 decitex 12 filament polyester raw silk high shrinkage yarn (boiling water shrinkage rate 20%) is used for the yarn constituting the back surface of the knitted fabric, and 110 decitex 60 for the remaining 6 yarn feeders F4, F5, F6, F10, F11, and F12. Using a filament woolly processed heathered yarn (50% cationic), a 28-gauge double-sided circular knitted fabric was knitted into a circular knitted fabric with a popcorn pattern on the front side and a flat shape on the back side. This gray fabric is dyed according to the usual dyeing method for polyester circular knitted fabric, finished to 42 wells/inch and 34 courses/inch, the surface yarn ratio is 60%, the back surface is made of 100% raw silk, and the back surface is made of 100% raw silk. 50% of the raw silk was highly shrinkable yarn with a total fineness of 33 decitex and a single yarn fineness of 2.75 decitex, and a double circular knitted fabric of Comparative Example 2 having a basis weight of 132 g/m ² was obtained. Tables 4 to 6 show the measurement results of the yarn usage and physical properties of the double circular knitted fabric of Comparative Example 2.

<<Comparative Example 3>>
Polyester raw silk of 56 decitex 24 filaments is used as the knitted fabric double-sided yarn of four yarn feeders F1, F3, F6, and F8 of a knitting structure consisting of a total of 10 yarn feeders shown in the knitting diagram of FIG. 7, and two yarn feeders F5 and F10. 84 decitex 12 filament polyester raw silk high shrinkage yarn (boiling water shrinkage rate 20%) for the knitted fabric back surface yarn, and 84 decitex 36 filament woolly processed yarn for the remaining 4 yarn feeders F2, F4, F7, and F9 knitted fabric surface yarn. A circular knitted fabric with a twill pattern on the front side and a flat shape on the back side was knitted with a 28-gauge double-sided circular knitted fabric. This gray fabric is dyed according to the usual dyeing method for polyester circular knitted fabric, finished to 47 wells/inch and 44 courses/inch, the surface yarn ratio is 100%, the back surface is made of 100% raw silk, and the back surface is made of 100% raw silk. 33.3% of the raw silk was highly shrinkable yarn with a total fineness of 84 decitex and a single yarn fineness of ⁷ decitex. Tables 4 to 6 show the measurement results of the yarn usage and physical properties of the double circular knitted fabric of Comparative Example 3.

As shown in Tables 1 to 3, the double circular knitted fabrics of Examples 1 to 4 have excellent back surface smoothness because the back surface is all made of synthetic fiber multifilament raw silk, and are breathable, basis weight, and the longitudinal direction of the back surface. and the sum of the average coefficient of friction in the lateral direction and the sum of the variation rate of the average coefficient of friction in the longitudinal direction and the lateral direction of the back surface also satisfy the numerical values required for jacket applications. In addition, the double circular knitted fabrics of Examples 1 to 4 were confirmed to have a moderate feeling of elasticity as a result of sensory evaluation.

However, in the double circular knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1, since the back surface is made of textured yarn, the sum of the average coefficients of friction in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction of the back surface shown in Table 5 exceeds 0.4. The sum of the variability of the average coefficient of friction in the direction exceeds 0.05, indicating that the smoothness of the back surface is poor. Furthermore, in the double circular knitted fabric of Comparative Example 2, the raw silk high shrinkage yarn on the back side had a total fineness of 33 decitex and a single yarn fineness of 2.75 decitex. It has a finish like this, and it was confirmed that it is not suitable for jacket applications that do not require lining. In addition, the double circular knitted fabric of Comparative Example 3 had a ratio of raw silk high shrinkage yarn on the back side of 33.3%, so as a result of sensory evaluation, it had no stiffness and had a loose finish, and the tailoring was not good. Therefore, it was confirmed that it is unsuitable for jacket applications that do not require a lining.

Claims (8)

Knit stitches made of synthetic fiber multifilament woolly processed yarn or synthetic fiber multifilament woolly processed heathered yarn constitute 60% or more of the total knit stitches on the surface of the knitted fabric, and all knit stitches constituting the back side of the knitted fabric Double circle for jacket , which is made of synthetic fiber multifilament raw silk, and 50% or more of the raw silk is high shrinkage yarn with a total fineness of 40 to 100 decitex, a single yarn fineness of 5 to 10 decitex, and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 15 to 25%. Knitted fabric. 2. The jacket according to claim 1 , wherein the sum of the average coefficient of friction of the back surface of the double circular knitted fabric in the longitudinal direction and the lateral direction is 0.4 or less when the average coefficient of friction is measured under the following conditions: double circular knitted fabric.
Based on the KES feel system, it was measured using a surface tester KES-FB4 (manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.). Under an environment of 20 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65%, a 20 × 20 cm square test piece is loaded with a tension of 20 gf / cm and attached to the above tester, and a piano wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm is attached to a 5 × 5 mm square. 10 contacts are wound in a flat shape, the contact is pressed against the test piece with a force of 50 gf, and the contact is moved horizontally at a constant speed of 0.1 cm / sec to measure the coefficient of friction. bottom. The coefficient of friction in the vertical and horizontal directions of the test piece is measured by the above method, and the arithmetic average value of the coefficients of friction measured three times each in the vertical and horizontal directions is taken as the average coefficient of friction. The sum of average coefficients of friction means the average coefficient of friction in the longitudinal direction plus the average coefficient of friction in the transverse direction . 1 or 2, characterized in that when the average coefficient of friction is measured under the following conditions, the sum of the variation rates of the average coefficient of friction in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction of the back surface of the double circular knitted fabric is 0.05 or less. 2. The double circular knitted fabric for jackets according to 2 above.
Based on the KES feel system, it was measured using a surface tester KES-FB4 (manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.). Under an environment of 20 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65%, a 20 × 20 cm square test piece is loaded with a tension of 20 gf / cm and attached to the above tester, and a piano wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm is attached to a 5 × 5 mm square. 10 contacts are wound in a flat shape, the contact is pressed against the test piece with a force of 50 gf, and the contact is moved horizontally at a constant speed of 0.1 cm / sec to measure the coefficient of friction. bottom. The coefficient of friction in the vertical and horizontal directions of the test piece is measured by the above method, and the arithmetic average value of the coefficients of friction measured three times each in the vertical and horizontal directions is taken as the average coefficient of friction. The variation rate C (%) of the average friction coefficient is obtained as follows. Now, if each measurement value of the friction coefficient is X (the first measurement is X1, the second measurement is X2, and the third measurement is X3), the average friction coefficient is a, and the number of measurements is n, then
C = [[(X1-a) ² /(n-1)+(X2-a) ² /(n-1)+(X3-a) ² /(n-1)]/a]×100
is required. The sum of the variation rate of the average friction coefficient is the sum of the variation rate of the average friction coefficient in the longitudinal direction and the variation rate of the average friction coefficient in the transverse direction. 4. The back surface of said double circular knitted fabric is composed of high-shrinkage yarn and synthetic multifilament raw yarn having a total fineness of 20% or more and 60% or less thinner than said high-shrinkage yarn. A double circular knitted fabric for a jacket described in Crab. 5. The double circular knitted fabric for jacket according to claim 1, wherein the knit stitches on the back side of said double circular knitted fabric are evenly arranged in the course direction . 6. The double circular knitted fabric for jacket according to claim 1 , wherein the double circular knitted fabric has an air permeability of 50 cm ³ /cm ² ·sec or more after dyeing . 7. The double circular knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the well density after dyeing is 30 to 60 wells/2.54 cm and the course density is 30 to 70 courses/2.54 cm. Double circular knitted fabric for jackets . The double circular knitted fabric for jackets according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the double circular knitted fabric has a basis weight of 130 to 270 g/m ² after dyeing .

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