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WO2019082804A1 - Knitted fabric - Google Patents

Knitted fabric

Info

Publication number
WO2019082804A1
WO2019082804A1 PCT/JP2018/038981 JP2018038981W WO2019082804A1 WO 2019082804 A1 WO2019082804 A1 WO 2019082804A1 JP 2018038981 W JP2018038981 W JP 2018038981W WO 2019082804 A1 WO2019082804 A1 WO 2019082804A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
knitted fabric
bundles
yarn bundles
knitted
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2018/038981
Other languages
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
伊達寛晃
土倉弘至
Original Assignee
東レ株式会社
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by 東レ株式会社 filed Critical 東レ株式会社
Priority to JP2019506737A priority Critical patent/JPWO2019082804A1/en
Publication of WO2019082804A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019082804A1/en

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/14Dyeability

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a knitted fabric having a specific knitted fabric.
  • Patent Document 4 As a technology that changes color depending on the angle, there is no stretchability due to the fabric structure (Patent Document 4), and because it is a double knitted fabric or a warp knitted fabric (vertical knitted fabric) Is hard (Patent Document 5 and Patent Document 6), and the color change effect is reduced, and it becomes relatively expensive such as double weave and double russell, and it is sports clothes and stretches requiring a sense of texture, feeling and low price. There is a problem that it is unsuitable for applications such as casual wear.
  • a decorative fabric realized by a knitted fabric there is a material having a high decorative effect by developing a fabric having different appearance and color depending on the viewing angle direction in a warp knitted fabric.
  • JP 2001-336041 A JP-A-8-60563 JP 2003-41465 A JP 2012-97390 A JP 2013-124419 A JP 2017 14 676 A
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric having a specific knitted fabric.
  • a weft knitted fabric in which the stitches are continuous in the lateral direction it is a knitted fabric with good stretchability and texture, and by using two or more kinds of yarns having different hues, the entire knitted fabric is viewed while having a three-dimensional effect
  • the present invention has the following configuration. It is a knitted fabric in which a plurality of yarn bundles knitted by horizontal knitting are woven in the wales, At least one yarn bundle among a plurality of yarn bundles has a hue different from that of the other yarn bundles, and at least two yarn bundles are knitted alternately in the course direction to form a continuous unevenness. is there.
  • a yarn bundle having a hue different from that of the other yarn bundles is a knitted fabric formed in a recess or a protrusion in the course direction, or It is a knitted fabric formed on the side between convexes. Moreover, it is a knitted fabric in which at least one yarn bundle among a plurality of kinds of yarn bundles comprises a plurality of yarns. Furthermore, the plurality of types of yarn bundles are knitted fabrics made of yarns of two or more hues different in hue.
  • the knitted fabric has a rib-like surface convex portion projecting to the front side along the wale direction and a rib-like back convex portion (surface concave portion) curving and projecting to the back side along the wale direction in the course direction It has a shape that is alternately continued, and the shape of the cut surface along the course direction is formed in a wave shape.
  • at least two types of yarn bundles alternately woven in the course direction are two or more types of yarn bundles having different dyeing properties. And, by dyeing the knitted fabric by different dyeing methods, it has portions with two or more different hues in the knitted fabric.
  • a knitted fabric comprising a polyurethane elastic yarn, a covering yarn using a polyurethane elastic yarn, or a yarn having a heat contraction rate of 10% or more in two or more yarn bundles among the plurality of yarn bundles. is there.
  • a sewing product is provided which uses these knitted fabrics as the longitudinal direction of the sewing product.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention is a unique knitted fabric whose hue changes depending on the viewing angle, can be prepared by an inexpensive method, and has a stretchability, a feeling of fit, and a fabric with good mobility which has a texture, texture and design. It is possible to provide a knitted fabric that can also be used as a material knitted fabric having a.
  • FIG. 1B It is an example of the outline plane image figure showing an example of the textile fabric which forms the concavo-convex shape of the present invention. It is a cross-sectional image figure of the knitted fabric at the time of cut
  • a knitted fabric in which plural types of yarn bundles knitted by weft knitting are knitted in the direction of wales means that plural types of yarn bundles form one knitting unit, and a plurality of types of yarn bundles are knitted.
  • the unit is a knitted fabric which is repeatedly woven in the direction of the wales of the knitted fabric.
  • to be knitted in the wale direction is to be knitted while switching a plurality of types of yarn bundles one by one in the advancing direction in which the knitting is advanced.
  • a plurality of types of yarn bundles are knitting units for characterizing the knitted fabric, and are, for example, knitting units that form a rib-like uneven or wave-like shape.
  • each yarn bundle may be different or the same.
  • at least one (seed) yarn bundle needs to be different in hue from other yarn bundles.
  • the same yarn bundle may be used depending on the role in the knitting unit.
  • each yarn bundle is described as a, b, c, d, e.
  • two yarn bundles are represented by a and b
  • four yarn bundles are represented by a, b, c and d.
  • the upper limit number of plural types of yarn bundles is not particularly limited, but considering the frequency of switching the yarn bundles and rib-like irregularities formed on the knitted fabric, it is preferably up to eight, more preferably four. .
  • weft knitting means that plural kinds of yarns are sequentially knitted in the weft direction, but, for example, four kinds of yarn bundles of a, b, c, d are used as a repeating unit. It means that knitting is formed.
  • four types of yarn bundles, a, b, c, and d constitute one knitting unit, and form a convex-concave shape of one cycle.
  • a regular and stable thickness knitted fabric can be obtained by forming a concavo-convex shape with four types of repeating units.
  • the number of courses formed by a plurality of yarn bundles of a, b, c and d depends on the thickness and knitting method of the yarn bundles, but can be switched to the next yarn bundle in several courses at most 12 courses.
  • the method of switching the yarn bundle may be a method used in a general horizontal knitting machine (round knitting machine).
  • the yarn bundles of a, b, c and d form areas when they are woven for several courses, so in the knitted fabric they are also called a part, b part, c part and d part respectively, a, b, c, How to count d may be "seed" or "site".
  • At least one yarn bundle among a plurality of yarn bundles has a hue different from that of the other yarn bundles in a knitted fabric in which a plurality of yarn bundles knitted by weft knitting are knitted in the wale direction.
  • a plurality of types of yarn bundles do not all have the same hue, and some types of yarn bundles are in the state of being composed of yarn bundles different in hue from other yarn bundles.
  • a, b, c, d are used as repeating units, for example, when a is a color different from b, c, and d, a, c, b, d, Also includes cases of different colors.
  • the number of yarn bundles having a hue different from one another may be one or two.
  • the position (order) at which the yarn bundles of different hues are arranged may or may not be adjacent to a.
  • the number of hues of the plurality of yarn bundles may be a number of suitable colors that satisfy the configuration that makes the colors appear different depending on the angles described later.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention is a knitted fabric in which at least two types of yarn bundles are knitted alternately in the course direction and continuously form unevenness in the course direction.
  • the use of a plurality of types of yarn bundles means that the knitted fabric can form irregularities continuously in the course direction by regularly and repeatedly arranging the yarn bundles having different contraction rates and extensibility in the course direction.
  • Regularly repeating includes repeating alternately depending on the number and arrangement pattern of a plurality of types of yarn bundles.
  • “arrange yarn bundles different in contraction rate and extensibility in the course direction” means that the contraction rates and elongation rates of adjacent yarn bundles are different from each other among multiple types of yarn bundles, and the contraction rates And yarn bundles with different extensibility are alternately arranged.
  • two or more types of yarn bundles are used, by alternately arranging yarn bundles different in contraction rate and extensibility, it becomes a knitted fabric which forms regular unevenness in the course direction.
  • the effect of forming irregularities by yarn bundles having different contraction rates and elongation rates is obtained at four locations: convex and concave portions, and both sides from convex to concave and concave to convex It is particularly preferable because it can be configured.
  • a yarn bundle having a high shrinkage ratio and extensibility can be obtained by adding a yarn having contraction elasticity to the yarn of the base. Therefore, functions can be added independently of the hues of the plurality of types of yarn bundles described above.
  • the number and arrangement pattern of yarn bundles different in shrinkage ratio and extensibility can be determined independently of the hue possessed by a plurality of yarn bundles, so that different color effects can be easily obtained by a plurality of yarn bundles, It is preferable to design the uneven shape.
  • the unevenness height of this knitted fabric may be changed as appropriate depending on the use, but when used for clothing, the height of unevenness (height from concave to convex) is 0.3 to 3.0 mm.
  • the range is preferred, more preferably 0.3 to 1.5 mm.
  • the range of 0.3 to 4.0 mm is preferable, and more preferably 0.3 to 2.5 mm.
  • the height of the unevenness is a value obtained by depth measurement using a microscope. If it is less than 0.3 mm, the depth of unevenness is insufficient and it is difficult to obtain the hue effect. When it exceeds 3 mm or 4 mm, the convex portion is easily crushed and it is difficult to obtain a hue effect.
  • respective yarns constituting a plurality of types of yarn bundles (a, b, c, d, e,...) Will be described.
  • the yarn bundle often consists of a plurality of yarns. In the following description, for convenience, each yarn is represented as yarn (1), yarn (2), yarn (3), yarn (4), yarn (5), yarn ... yarn (n) .
  • the yarn (1) to the yarn (n) are yarns having different properties such as material, fineness, hue, shrinkage, and extensibility.
  • Each of the plurality of types of yarn bundles is composed of one or more yarns from yarn (1) to yarn (n).
  • One kind of yarn bundle (a, b, c, d or e%) Among the plurality of kinds of yarn bundles is selected from any yarn from yarn (1) to yarn (n).
  • the same yarn may be used for all of the plurality of yarn bundles, and different yarns may be used in combination depending on the purpose.
  • the yarns (1) to (4) have low shrinkage and extensibility
  • the yarn (5) has high shrinkage and high extensibility.
  • yarns (1) to (4) are placed in a to d, respectively, and yarn (5) is placed on a in combination with yarn (1) alone.
  • one of a plurality of types of yarn bundles including the yarn (1) and the yarn (5): a is easily shrunk and its extensibility also becomes high. That is, in the case of the yarn bundle including the yarn (5), the yarn bundle is shrunk to be a three-dimensional knitted fabric.
  • a knitted fabric having a yarn bundle in which a yarn (5) having a high contraction rate is combined with any one of a plurality of yarn bundles is likely to be recessed or lifted from a plane at the yarn bundle.
  • yarn bundles of different colors are always convex It will be formed in a part or recess, and will be formed in the remaining recess or convex part, the side surface between convex and concave, and the side surface between concave and convex.
  • FIG. 1A is a schematic view showing an example of a knitted fabric which forms the concavo-convex shape of the present invention.
  • FIG. 1A is an image view of a knitted fabric as viewed from the surface
  • FIG. 1B is a cross-sectional image view of the knitted fabric when cut in the course direction.
  • FIG. 1C is a sectional image view in which a part of FIG. 1B is enlarged.
  • the combination of yarn (1) to yarn (4) in a plurality of yarn bundles is as follows: a: yarn (1) and yarn (5), yellow b: yarn () 2) and yarn (5), blue c: yarn (3) and yarn (5), yellow d: yarn (4), blue.
  • a yarn (1) and yarn (5)
  • yellow b yarn () 2) and yarn (5)
  • blue c yarn (3) and yarn (5)
  • yellow d yarn (4), blue.
  • a is a course including two yarns of yarn (1) and yarn (5), and the yarn bundle a is easily contracted by the action of the yarn (5).
  • the color is yellow.
  • b is a course including two yarns of yarn (2) and yarn (5), and the yarn bundle b is easily shrunk by the action of the yarn (5).
  • the color is blue c is a course including two yarns of yarn (3) and yarn (5), and the yarn bundle c is easily shrunk by the action of the yarn (5).
  • the color is yellow.
  • d is a course including only the yarn (4) and not including the yarn (5) having a large contraction rate. Although d is one thread, it may include a plurality of threads.
  • the color is blue.
  • the yarn bundle a is knitted in a plurality of courses, but is preferably 1 or more and 10 or less. The same applies to the other yarn bundles b, c and d. In FIG. 1A, although there is a space between a and b for the sake of clarity, a plurality of yarn bundles are continuously arranged without a space in the course direction.
  • At least one of the plurality of yarn bundles (a, b, c, d) has a hue different from that of the other yarn bundles, and at least two yarn bundles alternate in the course direction.
  • FIG. 1B is a cross-sectional image view between course direction AA in the knitted fabric 10 of FIG. 1A.
  • the needle surface 11, which is the front surface, is indicated by an arrow.
  • the cross-sectional shape in the course direction is rib-like irregularities.
  • the height H is measured using the distance from the highest protrusion to the lowest recess as the height.
  • FIG. 1C shows the positional relationship between a plurality of types of thread bundles and the shape of the unevenness.
  • the yarn a including the yarn (1) and the yarn (5) is located on the side surface of the rib-like unevenness.
  • the b including the yarn (2) and the yarn (5) is located in the recessed portion of the unevenness viewed from the surface (here, the needle surface 11).
  • C containing the yarn (3) and the yarn (5) is located on the side of the rib-like unevenness.
  • the d including the thread (4) is located in the convex portion of the concavo-convex viewed from the needle surface 11.
  • a, b and c including the easily shrinkable yarn (5) are contracted to lift d which is difficult to be shrunk to form a protrusion.
  • the positions on the unevenness of a to d can be controlled to be a specific position from the contraction rate of the yarn and the like, and the positional relationship between the unevenness formed continuously in the course direction and the yarn bundle is regular.
  • a front convex part is d of FIG. 1A
  • a back convex part is formed of b part of FIG. 1A.
  • by arranging at least one yarn bundle with different hue in any of a to d it is possible to have a plurality of colors in the same knitted fabric. And the structure which arrange
  • positions a specific thread bundle, ie, the color of a specific hue, in the specific place of uneven shape is obtained.
  • a and c are yellow and b and d are blue
  • the viewer looks at the knitted fabric from the front it looks like blue of b and d of the concavities and convexities, and the observer looks obliquely from the knitted fabric And, in addition to blue, it looks yellowish, so it looks greenish as a whole.
  • a to d include yarns of two or more hues having different hues, the hue changes slightly depending on the viewing angle because the hue changes in various colors, which is more preferable.
  • yarns of two or more hues having different hues form a pattern or a pattern, and the pattern changes depending on the viewing angle, which is more preferable.
  • the uneven shape of the knitted fabric By combining the uneven shape of the knitted fabric and a plurality of hues, it is possible to create a knitted fabric whose color or pattern changes depending on the viewing angle.
  • the surface is described as the needle surface 11, it is also possible to use the sinker surface as a surface in the product. If the sinker surface is the product table, the arrangement and design of yarns in the product table will be reversed.
  • a rib-like front convex portion (d in FIG. 1B) projecting to the front side along the wale direction and a rib-like back convex portion (front concavity, b in FIG. 1B) similarly curved and projected to the back side along the wale direction
  • the shape of the cut surface along the course direction is formed in a wavelike shape as in a repetition of abcdabcd as shown in FIG. 1, C knitted fabric cross-sectional image enlarged view). Knitted fabrics are preferably used.
  • the concavities and convexities in a rib shape, it is possible to hide the color in the concave part and the color on the opposite side to the visual direction of the convex part depending on the relationship between the viewing angle and the convex part.
  • the color of the rib-like convex and concave is easily visible, and when viewed obliquely from above, the color of the side of the convex is easily visible, and the side opposite to the visual direction of the convex is The color is hard to see.
  • the rib-like shape can be set arbitrarily, and in order to form fine short pitches and thin rib-like irregularities, using a high gauge knitting machine or shortening the repetition interval of the yarn It can correspond by.
  • a low gauge knitting machine may be used and the repetition interval of thread
  • rib-like unevenness can also adjust the interval with the pre-set and finish set at the time of dyeing processing, and by shrinking the back convex part (front concave part), the back convex part (front concave part) is difficult to see, It is also possible to set it as the knitted fabric which a back convex part (front concave part) appears when it is made to extend.
  • at least one yarn bundle of the plurality of yarn bundles (a, b, c, d) has a different hue from that of the other yarn bundles, and comprises at least two of the plural yarn bundles (a, b, c, d). Seed yarn bundles are knitted alternately in the course direction.
  • FIG. 2A is an example of a knitted fabric in which a2 including yarn (1) and yarn (5) has different colors, and a2 is disposed in the front concave portion (see FIG. 2B).
  • a plurality of yarn bundles use a total of five yarns.
  • the color and shrinkage of yarn (1) to yarn (5) are as follows: yarn (1): yellow, shrinkage small yarn (2): blue, shrinkage small yarn (3): blue, shrinkage small Yarn (4): blue, shrinkage small yarn (5): white, large shrinkage.
  • the combination of yarns in a plurality of yarn bundles is as follows: a2: yarn (1) and yarn (5), yellow b2: yarn (2) and yarn (5), Blue c2: Yarn (3), Blue d2: Yarn (4) and Yarn (5), Blue.
  • FIG. 3A shows that a3 containing yarn (1) and yarn (5) and c3 containing yarn (3) and yarn (5) have different colors, and a3 and c3 on the side surfaces on both sides of the convex portion of the uneven shape. It is an example of the arranged fabric.
  • Plural kinds of yarn bundles use five yarns of yarn (1) to yarn (5) in total.
  • the color and shrinkage of yarn (1) to yarn (5) are as follows: yarn (1): yellow, shrinkage small yarn (2): blue, shrinkage small yarn (3): white, shrinkage small Yarn (4): blue, shrinkage small yarn (5): white, large shrinkage.
  • the combination of yarn (1) to yarn (4) in a plurality of yarn bundles (a, b, c, d) is as follows: a3: yarn (1) and yarn (5), yellow b3: yarn (3) 2) and yarn (5), blue c3: yarn (3) and yarn (5), white d3: yarn (4), blue.
  • the stitches of the yarn bundle a including the yarn (1) and the yarn (5) are disposed at the position of a2 which is the front concave portion, the yarn (3) is positioned at the front convex portion c2, and the other yarns are Located at b2 and d2.
  • the stitch by the yarn bundle b including the yarn (2) and the yarn (5) is positioned at b3 of the front concave portion, and the stitch by the yarn bundle d including yarn (4) is positioned at d3 of the front convex portion .
  • the stitches of the yarn bundle a including the yarn (1) and the yarn (5) are located at a3 on the side of the convex portion.
  • the stitches of the yarn bundle c including the yarn (3) and the yarn (5) are located at c3 (the other side of the convex portion).
  • a2 to d2 may be one course or plural courses.
  • a2 to b2, b2 to c2, c2 to d2, and d2 to a2 are continuous on the knitting ground. The same applies to a3 to d3.
  • the knitted fabric is a weft knit and has good extensibility because the surface irregularities expand and contract. Furthermore, when the fabric is viewed from the front, blue and yellow are observed, and when the fabric is viewed obliquely, it is observed as blue.
  • the knitted fabric is a weft knit and has good extensibility because the surface irregularities expand and contract. Furthermore, when viewing the knitted fabric from the front, blue is observed, when viewing the knitted fabric obliquely, yellow is observed, and when viewing the knitted fabric obliquely from the opposite direction, white is observed. In this way, a knitted fabric having good stretchability in which the hue changes depending on the viewing angle can be obtained.
  • FIG. 3A the knitted fabric is a weft knit and has good extensibility because the surface irregularities expand and contract.
  • FIG. 4 is a schematic view showing an example of a knitted fabric forming the concavo-convex shape of the present invention
  • FIG. 4A is a photograph of the knitted fabric seen from the surface
  • FIG. 4B is a knitted fabric when cut in the course direction. It is a cross section photograph.
  • the method in which a plurality of types of yarn bundles have two or more colors is not limited to the following, but at least two types of yarn bundles alternately woven in the course direction are two or more types of yarn bundles having different dyeability. Is preferred. It is preferable that yarns having different dyeability be used in the yarns used for the respective yarn bundles. Although each yarn bundle (a, b, c, d) uses a plurality of yarns (Yarn (1), Yarn (2), Yarn (3), etc.), the dyeability of one yarn is It is preferable that it is different from others. And, different hues to be formed in the knitted fabric can be set by dyeing.
  • the term "different in dyeability" means yarns that are not dyed in the same color by the same dyeing method or the same dye, and yarns that are dyed by dyeing by the different dyeing method or the different dye.
  • a knitted fabric using nylon yarn and rayon yarn can be dyed by alternately dyeing with an acid dye and a direct dye.
  • a knitted fabric having two or more hues can be obtained.
  • the color and pattern change depending on the viewing angle. For example, by changing the hue of the convex apex and the base of the concave portion of the fabric forming the unevenness in the course direction, the concave portion is hidden by the convex depending on the viewing angle, and the color of the concave can not be seen . As a result, the color of the concave portion appears depending on the viewing angle. As another example, by arranging yarns having different hues on the rib-like side surfaces forming the convex portion, the color of one side surface is hidden by the viewing angle. As a result, the color of the concave portion appears depending on the viewing angle.
  • it is a knitted fabric having three or more hues.
  • three or more hues it is because the change in color is emphasized when the angle is changed, when the angle is changed in the opposite direction, when viewed from the front, and when it is viewed from the front.
  • the angle is changed, the color and angle arranged on the side of one side of the rib-shaped unevenness are reversed, when the angle is changed from the surface to the center of the hue of the front convex portion and the back convex portion (front concave portion).
  • the color is arranged on the other side of the rib-like unevenness to emphasize the change in color.
  • the yarn (1) to the yarn (4) may be any one that can be used as a knitted fabric such as nylon yarn, polyester yarn, rayon yarn and the like.
  • a knitted fabric such as nylon yarn, polyester yarn, rayon yarn and the like.
  • two or more types of raw materials are preferably used.
  • a more preferable range of the high shrinkage yarn is a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or more and 30% or less.
  • the rib-like concavo-convex shape which is a feature of this knitted fabric, alternately arranges polyester or normal nylon yarns and yarns such as polyurethane elastic yarns that differ in extensibility and heat shrinkage, in the course direction of the knitted fabric. It becomes a knitted fabric that partially shrinks. Thereby, rib-shaped unevenness can be formed on the knitted fabric.
  • a yarn such as polyurethane elastic yarn different in extensibility and heat shrinkable yarn is plated with nylon yarn or polyester yarn with plait knitting, or high contraction yarn is reversible texture (face-to-face alignment).
  • the shrinkage characteristics of the normal polyester or normal nylon yarn have a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or less.
  • rib-shaped unevenness can also be formed using a copolyester yarn having a high thermal contraction rate, a nylon yarn having a high thermal contraction rate, or the like.
  • the wales of the knitted fabric When used in a sewn product, the wales of the knitted fabric may be used as the border with the weft direction of the sewn product, but the wales of the knitted fabric may be used as stripes in the warp direction of the sewn product. You may use it. By using it in the form of stripes, when it is used as a clothing item, it becomes a fabric with different colors on the left and right.
  • sewing products include sportswear and swimwear, bottoms, clothing products such as coats and sewing products, bags, shoes, accessories such as hats and scarves, cushions and covers, curtains and the like. It can also be used as a material for materials such as upholstery such as sheet materials and table hooks.
  • various yarns used in the conventional knitted fabric for example, yarns of various synthetic fibers, filament yarns of regenerated fibers, natural fibers, artificial fibers, and yarns comprising those fibers, polyurethane ( Elastic yarns such as spandex yarns can be used, and further, yarns may be used as covering yarns and covering yarns, and may be optionally used according to the purpose.
  • yarns of various synthetic fibers for example, yarns of various synthetic fibers, filament yarns of regenerated fibers, natural fibers, artificial fibers, and yarns comprising those fibers, polyurethane ( Elastic yarns such as spandex yarns can be used, and further, yarns may be used as covering yarns and covering yarns, and may be optionally used according to the purpose.
  • Elastic yarns such as spandex yarns
  • yarns may be used as covering yarns and covering yarns, and may be optionally used according to the purpose.
  • a portion with a small shrinkage is preferably used because it gives a plain surface feeling
  • a flat yarn which is not easily shrunk at a portion where the shrinkage is small, to produce a texture of a woven and football-like texture.
  • it can be used according to the purpose and processing method, such as a primary binding yarn and a pre-dyed yarn.
  • the fineness of the above-mentioned fiber is not particularly limited, and commercially available ones can be used according to the purpose, but in order to make the texture soft, it is preferable to make the single yarn fineness 1.5 dtex or less. More preferably, when the fineness is 0.1 dtex or more and the fineness of the single yarn is too small, the coloring property becomes small, and the range which can be used for clothing or material use becomes narrow.
  • the above-mentioned fibers may also contain additives such as titanium oxide as a matting agent, but they do not contain a matting agent for the purpose of obtaining a knitted fabric having a color with high saturation in hue. Bright yarn is preferred.
  • the fabric Since the surface and the back of the fabric are uneven, the fabric has excellent stretchability, and since the rib-like uneven portion has less surface to hit the skin, it suppresses stickiness at the time of sweating, and the concave is always air Because it has a large surface area, it is also excellent in quick drying. Furthermore, it is possible to diffuse absorbed sweat by using a water-absorbing quick-drying functional yarn such as a yarn of irregular cross-section or a yarn having a large number of filaments, and to obtain further rapid drying.
  • a water-absorbing quick-drying functional yarn such as a yarn of irregular cross-section or a yarn having a large number of filaments
  • the surface convex portion is knitted with hydrophilic fibers and the back convex portion (surface concave portion) with hydrophobic fibers, the sweat absorbed by the convex portion is quickly transferred to the front side and evaporated, and the stickiness at the time of sweating is effectively suppressed and further You can get comfort. It is suitable not only for the design of color change but also for the use of clothing such as sportswear and knitwear as functional materials.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention by using a single knitting machine, it is possible to create a thin, light-weight knitted fabric. By making it thin and light in weight, it becomes a cloth suitable for clothing, and can be used for small products, even when used as covers.
  • any knitting machine that can obtain the target of the present invention can be used, and in particular, a circular knitting machine and a horizontal knitting machine are preferable.
  • a sock knitting machine it is also possible to knit with a sock knitting machine, and furthermore, it is also possible to partially create this knitting form using a non-sewing knitting machine such as a special circular knitting machine made by Santoni or a wholesale garment made by Shima Seiki is there.
  • the knitted fabric structure is not limited as long as a knitted fabric can be obtained, but it is not limited, but it is a modified reversible pummel structure formed by plating two yarns partially, a deformed bare pimp fabric, a deformed bare deerskin, a deformed bare mesh Single knits are preferably used.
  • Ventilation rate The air flow rate was measured by fiscal 2015 JIS-L-1096 (Frazil method). The aeration amount is represented by the amount of gas per unit area [cc / cm 2 / sec] per second. The measurement was performed at a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65 RH%.
  • Back side water retention rate 1.0 cc of distilled water was dropped on a glass plate, and a knitted fabric with a sample size of 10 cm ⁇ 10 cm was placed thereon with the back surface facing downward in contact with distilled water.
  • this knitted fabric was transferred onto another glass plate, sandwiched between two sheets of filter paper cut to the same size, and left for 60 seconds with a load of 5 g / m 2 applied. Thereafter, the water holding mass of the knitted fabric was calculated from the difference between the original knitted fabric mass and the knitted fabric mass after water absorption. Further, the water retention rates of the front and back surfaces of the knitted fabric were calculated from the water-containing mass of each filter paper in contact with the front and back surfaces. Such an operation was similarly performed about three knit fabrics, and let an average value be a back surface water retention rate. In addition, a back surface shows the surface which a knitted fabric contacts with the skin.
  • the back side water retention rate is evaluated as follows. A: Back side water retention rate less than 20% B: Back side water retention rate 20% or more. (3) Collect 3 test pieces of about 15 cm ⁇ 15 cm in size from the water-absorbent fabric, and place each skin on the skin side up so that no extra tension is applied to the embroidery frame or beaker with a diameter of 10 cm or more. And place the sample so that the surface of the test piece is horizontal. The measurement was performed at a temperature of 20 ° C.
  • a test piece in which the tip of the injection needle (TERUMO 26G1 / 2, 0.45 ⁇ 13 mm, syringe capacity 1 cc) adjusted so that 1 drop (about 0.005 cc) of distilled water is dropped vertically is placed horizontally It fixes to a predetermined holder so that 5 cm away from the surface of.
  • the water absorption time until the water drop on the test piece stops special reflection is measured with a stopwatch and read in 0.1 second units.
  • the "no special reflection” state means that the specular reflection disappears as the test piece absorbs the water drop, and only the wetting remains.
  • the weight is measured. Thereafter, the weight of the test piece is measured every 5 minutes. In addition, the measured value of weight is calculated to the third decimal place. Then, the diffusible residual water content (%) defined by the following equation is calculated by using the weight measured every 5 minutes and the original weight.
  • Diffusive residual moisture percentage (%) ⁇ [Weight at measurement-original weight] / [weight at start of measurement-original weight] ⁇ x 100 The weight measurement of the test piece every 5 minutes and the calculation of the diffusible residual water content are continuously performed until the value of the diffusible residual water content becomes 10% or less, and the measurement when the value becomes 10% or less Ask for time.
  • the above operation is performed on all the test pieces, and the average value of the obtained measurement time (measurement time when the residual diffusive moisture content is 10% or less) is calculated.
  • Unevenness height The height from the concave part to the convex part is a magnification of 100 times (VH-ZST lens) using a microscope VHX-5000 manufactured by Keyence, and the knitted fabric is photographed from the surface, and the depth is measured from the highest convex part to the lowest. The height to the recess was measured.
  • Boiling water shrinkage rate The measurement was performed in the state of a yarn. Similar to the method of the dimensional change rate of hot water in the method of JIS L1013 (2010 version), the dimensional change rate was evaluated using hot water of 98 ° C. as boiling water.
  • Example 1 Using a 28-gauge circular knitting machine, a knitted fabric having a structure as shown in FIG. 2A was produced. The a portion formed from the yarn bundle a was disposed in the rib-like recess using a nylon yarn of 84 dtex as the yarn (1). In part b to part d, yarn (2) and yarn (3) yarn (4) are 84 dtex cationic dyed polyester false twist yarns, and they are arranged on the convex and concave portions of the rib-like unevenness.
  • Yarn (5) is a 78 dtex polyurethane elastic yarn, which is a modified bare pumbilical cord organized by plating in a part including yarn (1), b part including yarn (2), and d part including yarn (4) is there. The number of courses of each yarn bundle is as shown in Table 1, and each yarn bundle was 2 courses.
  • the resulting knitted fabric was dyed with a blue acid dye, then with a green cationic dye, and subjected to water absorption processing in a bath.
  • the a part was stained blue and the b to d parts were stained green.
  • a circular knitted fabric was obtained in which the blue color, which is the color of the convex portions and the side surfaces, was hidden and the green color appeared to be greenish.
  • blue can be seen from the green knitted fabric by the extension of the course direction of the fabric. It was a good sportswear with good water absorption, quick-drying and reduced sticky feeling, and a good knitted fabric as swimming swimwear.
  • the evaluation results are shown in Table 1.
  • the sticky feeling was evaluated by the water retention rate on the reverse side.
  • the water retention rate on the back side was evaluated as low as less than 20%, and the sticky feeling was reduced.
  • Example 2 In a knitting method similar to that of Example 1, the a portion formed from the yarn bundle a as shown in FIG. 3A contains 56 dtex nylon yarn as the yarn (1), and in the c portion, the yarn (3) has 56 dtex cation Contains dyed polyester yarn. As shown in FIG. 3B, the a portion including the yarn (1) and the c portion including the yarn (3) were disposed on each of the side surfaces of the rib-like unevenness.
  • the b part containing the yarn (2) was a black base-attached false twisted yarn of 84 dtex of polyethylene terephthalate and the d part containing a yarn (4) containing a black base-attached false twisted yarn of 167 dtex of polyethylene terephthalate.
  • Yarn (5) is a 156 dtex polyurethane elastic yarn, which is a modified bare pucker structure knitted by plating on yarn (1) to yarn (3).
  • the a portion including the yarn (1) and the c portion including the yarn (3) were disposed on the side surfaces of the rib-like unevenness.
  • the b portion including the yarn (2) was disposed in the rib-shaped uneven recess, and the d portion including the yarn (4) was disposed in the rib-shaped uneven protrusion.
  • the resulting knitted fabric was dyed with a blue acid dye, then with a green cationic dye, and subjected to water absorption processing in a bath.
  • the a part was stained blue and the c part was stained green.
  • the b and d parts were black.
  • it was possible to obtain a circular knitted fabric in which the color changes depending on the angle. It looks black when viewed from the front, looks blue when viewed obliquely, and appears green when viewed obliquely from the opposite direction. It was a good sportswear with good water absorption, quick-drying and reduced sticky feeling, and a good knitted fabric as swimming swimwear.
  • Example 1 A knitted fabric was produced in the same design as in Example 2 using a 40 gauge circular knitting machine.
  • the a portion formed from the yarn bundle a is a nylon yarn of 56 dtex as the yarn (1), and the yarn (3) is a rayon yarn of 56 dtex in the c portion.
  • a part and c part were arrange
  • the b portion containing the yarn (2) contained 56 dtex of cationic dyed polyester false twisted yarn and was disposed in the concave portion of the rib-like unevenness.
  • the d portion containing the yarn (4) contained 84 dtex of cationic dyed polyester false twisted yarn and was disposed on the rib-like uneven convex portion.
  • Yarn (5) is a 78 dtex polyurethane elastic yarn, which is a modified bare peg structure organized by plating on yarns (1) to (3). As shown in Table 1, Example 3 and Example 4 changed the number of courses of each yarn.
  • Example 5 A knitted fabric was produced in the same design as in Example 2 using a 32 gauge circular knitting machine. The a part formed from the yarn bundle a contains 56 dtex nylon yarn as the yarn (1), and c part contains the 56 dtex cationic dyed polyester false yarn as the yarn (3).
  • the b portion contains 56 dtex of black base-bonded polyethylene terephthalate false twist yarn as the yarn (2), and is disposed in the concave portion of the rib-like unevenness.
  • the d portion contains 84 dtex of black base-bonded polyethylene terephthalate false twist yarn as the yarn (4), and is disposed at the rib-like uneven convex portion.
  • Yarn (5) is a 56 dtex polyester copolymer highly shrinkable yarn, and is a deformed reversible ply structure organized by plating on the yarn (1) and the yarn (3), and the rib-like surface-recessed yarn (2). The boiling shrinkage of the high shrinkage yarn of polyester copolymer used was 8%.
  • the obtained knitted fabric was subjected to dyeing in the same manner as in Example 1. As a result, a circular knitted fabric was obtained, which was thin, but lacked extensibility but changed its color depending on the angle. It was a good knitted fabric as curtains and covers.
  • the evaluation results are shown in Table 1. Comparative Example 1 Using a 32 gauge circular knitting machine, a normal bare twill knitted fabric was produced. For the yarn bundle a, a 84 dtex cationic dyed polyester false twisted yarn as the yarn (1) and a polyurethane elastic yarn of 78 dtex as the yarn (5) were used. The entire course of the knitted fabric is a part.
  • the resulting knitted fabric was dyed with a green cationic dye and subjected to water absorption processing in a bath. The entire fabric was stained green. As a result, the color did not change depending on the angle, and a plain ordinary bare-tendon-maru knitted fabric was obtained.
  • the evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

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Abstract

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a relatively inexpensive knitted fabric having superior stretchability and making use of yarn with different colors for changing color and pattern according to the angle of view of the knitted fabric. To achieve the purpose above, the knitted fabric, in which multiple types of yarn bundles formed by horizontal knitting are knitted in the wale direction, is characterized in that these multiple types of yarn bundles are formed from yarn bundles with two or more different colors, and at least two types of yarn bundles are knitted alternately in the course direction and continuously recessed and protruding in the course direction.

Description

編地Knitted fabric
 本発明は、特定の編成組織を有する編地に関する。 The present invention relates to a knitted fabric having a specific knitted fabric.
 衣料に装飾性を付与するために、生地の表面に視角方向により異なる外観を発揮させる生地があり、従来、織物の経糸または緯糸に2色の糸を用いて交互に配列するものがある(特許文献1参照)。
また、織物の経糸と緯糸とに異なる組成の糸を用いてこれらの染色差を用いるものがあり(特許文献2、3参照)、これらの生地は、色糸の混色作用によって視角方向により色合いが異なる視覚効果、玉虫調が得られる。
In order to impart decorativeness to clothing, there is a fabric which causes the surface of the fabric to exhibit a different appearance depending on the viewing angle direction, and in the prior art, there are some which alternately arrange yarns of two colors on warp or weft of fabric (patent Reference 1).
Moreover, there are some which use these dyeing | staining differences using the thread | yarn of a different composition for the warp and weft of textiles (refer to patent documents 2 and 3), and these cloths color tone according to a visual angle direction Different visual effects, iridescent tone are obtained.
 しかしながら、角度によって色が変わる技術として、織物構造であるために伸縮性がないこと(特許文献4)や、ダブル編地や経編地(タテ編地)であるために厚地であったり、風合いが硬く(特許文献5、特許文献6)、また色変化効果が少なくなること、2重織やダブルラッセルなど比較的高価となり、伸縮性や目付感、風合い、低価格が要求されるスポーツ衣料やカジュアルウエアなどの用途には不向きであるという問題があった。
また、編物組織により実現した装飾生地としては、経編地において視角方向によって外観や色合いの異なる生地を開発し、高い装飾効果を備えた材料がある。しかし、厚地で硬い風合いとなるデメリットがある。緯編地(ヨコ編地)については、生地の表面が比較的平坦となるため、薄地で立体的な装飾視角効果を有する生地を構成するのは困難であった。
However, as a technology that changes color depending on the angle, there is no stretchability due to the fabric structure (Patent Document 4), and because it is a double knitted fabric or a warp knitted fabric (vertical knitted fabric) Is hard (Patent Document 5 and Patent Document 6), and the color change effect is reduced, and it becomes relatively expensive such as double weave and double russell, and it is sports clothes and stretches requiring a sense of texture, feeling and low price. There is a problem that it is unsuitable for applications such as casual wear.
In addition, as a decorative fabric realized by a knitted fabric, there is a material having a high decorative effect by developing a fabric having different appearance and color depending on the viewing angle direction in a warp knitted fabric. However, there is a disadvantage that the texture is hard on heavy ground. In the case of a weft knitted fabric (horizontally knitted fabric), it is difficult to construct a fabric having a three-dimensional decorative visual effect by a thin fabric since the surface of the fabric is relatively flat.
特開2001-336041号公報JP 2001-336041 A 特開平8-60563号公報JP-A-8-60563 特開2003-41465号公報JP 2003-41465 A 特開2012-97390号公報JP 2012-97390 A 特開2013-124419号公報JP 2013-124419 A 特開2017-14676号公報JP 2017 14 676 A
 本発明は、特定の編成組織を有する編地を提供することを目的とするものである。編み目が横方向に連続するヨコ編地において、伸縮性や風合いが良好な編地であって、色相の異なる2種以上の糸を使用することにより、編地全体が立体感を持ちつつ、見る角度によって色や柄が変化する編地を提供することを目的とするものである。 An object of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric having a specific knitted fabric. In a weft knitted fabric in which the stitches are continuous in the lateral direction, it is a knitted fabric with good stretchability and texture, and by using two or more kinds of yarns having different hues, the entire knitted fabric is viewed while having a three-dimensional effect It is an object of the present invention to provide a knitted fabric whose color and pattern change depending on the angle.
 本発明者らは、上記課題を解決するために鋭意検討の結果、本発明をなすに至った。すなわち、本発明は以下の構成からなる。
ヨコ編により編成された複数種の糸束がウェール方向に編み込まれた編地であって、
複数種の糸束のうち少なくとも1つの糸束は、他の糸束と異なる色相を有し、少なくとも2つの糸束がコース方向に交互に編成され、連続的に凹凸を形成する、編地である。そして、前記複数種の糸束のうち、他の糸束と異なる色相を有する糸束が、コース方向の凹部または凸部に形成される編地か、あるいは、凸から凹間の側面または凹から凸間の側面に形成される編地である。
また、複数種の糸束のうち少なくとも1つの糸束が複数の糸からなる編地である。さらに、前記複数種の糸束はそれぞれ色相の異なる2色以上の色相の糸からなる編地である。
前記編地は、ウェール方向に沿って表側に突出したリブ状の表凸部と、同じくウェール方向に沿って裏側に湾曲して突出したリブ状の裏凸部(表凹部)とをコース方向に交互に連続させた形状を備え、前記コース 方向に沿った切断面の形状が波状に形成されてなる。
また、コース方向に交互に編み込まれている少なくとも2種の糸束が、染色性の異なる2種以上の糸束である、編地である。そして、編地を異なった染色法で染色することにより、編地内で2種以上の色相の異なる部位を有する。
さらに、前記複数種の糸束のうち2種以上の糸束において、ポリウレタン弾性糸、または、ポリウレタン弾性糸を用いたカバーリング糸、または、熱収縮率10%以上の糸を含む、編地である。
これら編地をウェール方向を縫製品の縦方向として使用する縫製品を提供する。
The inventors of the present invention have made the present invention as a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems. That is, the present invention has the following configuration.
It is a knitted fabric in which a plurality of yarn bundles knitted by horizontal knitting are woven in the wales,
At least one yarn bundle among a plurality of yarn bundles has a hue different from that of the other yarn bundles, and at least two yarn bundles are knitted alternately in the course direction to form a continuous unevenness. is there. Then, among the plurality of types of yarn bundles, a yarn bundle having a hue different from that of the other yarn bundles is a knitted fabric formed in a recess or a protrusion in the course direction, or It is a knitted fabric formed on the side between convexes.
Moreover, it is a knitted fabric in which at least one yarn bundle among a plurality of kinds of yarn bundles comprises a plurality of yarns. Furthermore, the plurality of types of yarn bundles are knitted fabrics made of yarns of two or more hues different in hue.
The knitted fabric has a rib-like surface convex portion projecting to the front side along the wale direction and a rib-like back convex portion (surface concave portion) curving and projecting to the back side along the wale direction in the course direction It has a shape that is alternately continued, and the shape of the cut surface along the course direction is formed in a wave shape.
In addition, at least two types of yarn bundles alternately woven in the course direction are two or more types of yarn bundles having different dyeing properties. And, by dyeing the knitted fabric by different dyeing methods, it has portions with two or more different hues in the knitted fabric.
Furthermore, a knitted fabric comprising a polyurethane elastic yarn, a covering yarn using a polyurethane elastic yarn, or a yarn having a heat contraction rate of 10% or more in two or more yarn bundles among the plurality of yarn bundles. is there.
A sewing product is provided which uses these knitted fabrics as the longitudinal direction of the sewing product.
 本発明の編地は、見る角度によって色相が変わる特異な編地であり、安価な方法で作成でき、伸長性やフィット感、風合いを有した運動性の良い衣料用編地、風合いや意匠性を持った資材用編地としても使用できる編物を提供できることになる。 The knitted fabric of the present invention is a unique knitted fabric whose hue changes depending on the viewing angle, can be prepared by an inexpensive method, and has a stretchability, a feeling of fit, and a fabric with good mobility which has a texture, texture and design. It is possible to provide a knitted fabric that can also be used as a material knitted fabric having a.
本発明の凹凸形状を形成する編地の一例を示す概略平面イメージ図の1例である。It is an example of the outline plane image figure showing an example of the textile fabric which forms the concavo-convex shape of the present invention. コース方向で切断した場合の編地の断面イメージ図である。It is a cross-sectional image figure of the knitted fabric at the time of cut | disconnecting in a course direction. 図1Bの一部を拡大した断面イメージ図である。It is the cross-sectional image figure which expanded a part of FIG. 1B. 本発明の凹凸形状を形成する編地のほかの例を示す概略平面イメージ図である。It is a schematic plan image figure which shows the other example of the knitted fabric which forms the uneven | corrugated shape of this invention. コース方向で切断した場合の編地の断面イメージ図である。It is a cross-sectional image figure of the knitted fabric at the time of cut | disconnecting in a course direction. 本発明の凹凸形状を形成する編地のほかの例を示す概略平面イメージ図である。It is a schematic plan image figure which shows the other example of the knitted fabric which forms the uneven | corrugated shape of this invention. コース方向で切断した場合の編地の断面イメージ図である。It is a cross-sectional image figure of the knitted fabric at the time of cut | disconnecting in a course direction. 本発明の凹凸形状を形成する編地の一例を示す写真である。It is a photograph which shows an example of the knitted fabric which forms the uneven | corrugated shape of this invention. コース方向で切断した場合の編地の断面写真の1例である。It is an example of the cross-sectional photograph of the knitted fabric when it cut | disconnects in a course direction.
 以下、本発明につき詳細に説明する。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
 本発明において、「ヨコ編により編成された複数種の糸束がウェール方向に編み込まれた編地」とは、複数種の糸束がひとつの編成単位となって、複数種の糸束の編成単位が編地のウェール方向に繰り返し編み込まれた編地である。ここで、ウェール方向に編み込まれるとは、編みを進める進行方向に、複数種の糸束が一種ずつ切り替わりながら編み込まれることである。複数種の糸束は、編地に特徴を出すための編成単位であって、たとえばリブ状の凸凹や波状の1つの形状を形成する編成単位となる。そして、複数種の糸束には、材質や繊度、色相、収縮性や伸張性などの特徴の組み合わせが重要であり、それぞれの糸束が異なっていても、同じであってもかまわない。但し、後述するとおり、少なくとも1つ(種)の糸束は他の糸束と色相が異なっている必要がある。それぞれの糸束には、編成単位内の役割に応じて、同じ糸束が用いられることがあってもよい。
後述する図面を用いての説明においては、複数種の糸束において、それぞれの糸束は、a、b、c、d、e・・・と表記する。たとえば、2種の糸束は、aとbで表され、4種の糸束は、a、b、cとdで表される。複数種の糸束の上限の数は、特に制限はないが、糸束を切り替る頻度や編地に形成するリブ状の凸凹を考慮すると、8種までが好ましく、より好ましくは4種である。次に、ヨコ編により編成されるとは、ヨコ方向に複数種の糸が順々に編み込まれていくが、たとえば、a、b、c、dの4種の糸束が繰り返し単位として、ヨコ編みが形成されていくことをいう。さらに、後述するように、4種の糸束、a、b、c、dがひとつの編成単位となり、1周期の凸凹形状を形成することが好ましい。これは、4種の繰り返し単位で凸凹形状を形成することで規則的で厚みが安定な編地が得られるためである。a、b、c、dの複数種の糸束で作るコース数は、糸束の太さや編み方にもよるが、数コースから多くても12コースで次の糸束に切り替えられる。糸束を切り替える方法は、一般的なヨコ編機(丸編機)で用いられる方法でよい。a、b、c、dの糸束は、数コース編み込まれるとエリアを形成するので、編地においては、それぞれa部、b部、c部、d部とも呼ばれ、a、b、c、dの数え方は、「種」でも「部位」でも構わない。
複数種の糸束のうち少なくとも1種の糸束は、他の糸束と異なる色相を有するとは、ヨコ編により編成された複数種の糸束をウェール方向に編み込まれた編地において、この複数種の糸束が全部同じ色相ではなく、何種かの糸束がほかの糸束とは色相の異なる糸束で構成されている状態である。4種の糸、a、b、c、dを繰り返し単位とするとき、たとえば、aが、ほかのbとcとdと異なる色である場合と、aとcが、他のbとdと異なる色である場合をも含む。他と異なる色相を有する糸束の数は、1種でもよいし、2種でもよい。異なる色相の糸束を配する位置(順序)も、aと隣り合っていても、aと隣り合っていなくてもよい。複数の糸束が有する色相の数は、後述する角度により異なる色に見える構成を満たす好適な色の数でよい。つまり、4種の場合、複数の糸束のうち他の糸束と異なる色を持つ糸束の数は、色の変化が現れるよう適宜選べばよく、1種でも2種でもまたすべての糸束が異なる色相でもよい。
次に、コース方向においてリブ状の凸凹を形成することについて説明する。本発明の編地は、少なくとも2種の糸束がコース方向に交互に編成され、連続的にコース方向に凹凸を形成している編地であることが重要である。
複数種の糸束を用いるということは、収縮率や伸長性が異なる糸束をコース方向に規則的に繰り返し配置することで、編地が連続的にコース方向に凹凸を形成することができる。規則的に繰り返すとは、複数種の糸束の数や配置パターンによっては、交互に繰り返されることを含む。本発明において「収縮率や伸長性が異なる糸束をコース方向に交互に配置する」とは、複数種の糸束において、隣り合う糸束の収縮率や伸長率が互いに異なっており、収縮率や伸張性が異なる糸束が交互に配置されることをいう。複数種の糸束が2種のときは、収縮率や伸張性が異なる糸束を交互に配置することで、コース方向に規則的な凸凹を形成する編地となる。複数種の糸束が3種のときには、収縮率や伸張性がほかと異なる糸束を1種含み、コース方向に3種の糸束を繰り返し配置して、コース方向に凸凹を連続的に形成し波状とすることが好ましい。複数種の糸束が4種のときには、収縮率や伸張性が異なる糸束を1種または2種含み、コース方向に4種の糸束を繰り返し配置して、凸凹を連続的に形成し波状とすることが好ましい。複数種の糸束が4種のときには、収縮率や伸長率の異なる糸束による凸凹形成の効果を、凸部と凹部、および、凸から凹間と凹から凸間の両側面の4部位で構成できるため、特に好ましい。
後述するが、収縮率や伸長性が高い糸束は、ベースの糸に収縮弾性を有する糸を付加することで得ることができる。そのため、前述の複数種の糸束が有する色相とは独立に機能を付加することができる。結果、収縮率や伸長性が異なる糸束の数や配置パターンは、複数種の糸束が有する色相とは無関係に決定でき、複数種の糸束による異なる色の効果が得られやすいように、凸凹形状を設計することが好ましい。この編地の凹凸高さは使用する用途によって適宜変更して構わないが、衣料用として用いる場合には、凹凸高さ(凹部から凸部までの高さ)は0.3~3.0mmの範囲が好ましく、より好ましくは、0.3~1.5mmである。カーテンやカバー類のような資材で用いる場合には、0.3~4.0mmの範囲が好ましく、より好ましくは、0.3~2.5mmである。ここで、凸凹の高さは、マイクロスコープを用いて深度測定より得られる値である。0.3mm未満では、凸凹の深さが不足して色相効果が得られにくい。3mmまたは4mmを超えると凸部がつぶれやすくなって色相効果が得られにくい。
次に、複数種の糸束(a、b、c、d、e・・・)を構成する、それぞれの糸について説明する。糸束は、複数の糸からなることが多い。以下の説明においては、便宜的に、それぞれの糸は、糸(1)、糸(2)、糸(3)、糸(4)、糸(5)、糸・・・糸(n)と表す。糸(1)から糸(n)は、材質、繊度、色相、収縮率、伸張性などの特性が異なる糸である。前記複数種の糸束のうち各糸束は、糸(1)から糸(n)までの1本以上の糸から構成されている。前記複数種の糸束のうち1種の糸束(a、b、c、d、または、e・・・)は、糸(1)から糸(n)までの任意の糸から選ばれる。本発明においては、色の効果と凸凹形成の2つの効果を考慮して、たとえば、糸(1)と糸(2)を組み合わせて、1種の糸束(a)とすることが好ましい。また、複数種の糸束の全部に同じ糸を用い、かつ、目的によって別の糸をそれぞれ組み合わせて用いてもよい。
ここで一例として、糸(1)~(4)が、収縮率や伸長性が低く、糸(5)が収縮率や伸長性が高い糸とする。複数種の糸束が4種の場合、aからdには糸(1)から糸(4)をそれぞれ配置し、糸(5)は糸(1)のみと組み合わせてaに配置する。すると、糸(1)と糸(5)が含まれる複数種の糸束の1種:aは、収縮しやすく伸張性も高くなる。つまり、糸(5)が含まれる糸束:aは、糸束が収縮し、立体的な編地になりやすい。複数種の糸束のうちいずれかの糸束に、収縮率の高い糸(5)を組み合わせた糸束を有する編地は、その糸束の部位で平面から窪んだり、浮きあがったりしやすい。なお、前述の複数の糸束が有する色相との関係において、1種がほかと異なる色相の糸束であればよいが、複数種の糸束の編成単位に従って、異なる色の糸束が常に凸部または凹部に形成され、残る凹部または凸部、凸から凹間の側面と、凹から凸間の側面に形成することになる。
以下、図1Aに示す編地を用いて、糸束における糸の構成と、複数種の糸束の構成とリブ状の凸凹について説明する。
図1Aは、本発明の凹凸形状を形成する編地の一例を示す概略図である。図1Aは表面から見た編地のイメージ図、図1Bはコース方向で切断した場合の編地の断面イメージ図である。図1Cは図1Bの一部を拡大した断面イメージ図である。図1A中、編地10は、コース方向に複数種の糸束、4種(a、b、c、d)が繰り返しており、a~dは編地上でそれぞれ連続している。
複数種の糸束は、全部で糸(1)から糸(5)の5つの糸を用いる。
糸(1)から糸(5)の色と収縮率は次のとおりである
糸(1):黄色、収縮率小さい
糸(2):青色、収縮率小さい
糸(3):黄色、収縮率小さい
糸(4):青色、収縮率小さい
糸(5):白色、収縮率大きい 。
複数種の糸束(a、b、c、d)における、糸(1)から糸(4)の組み合わせは次のとおりである
 a:糸(1)と糸(5)、黄色
 b:糸(2)と糸(5)、青色
 c:糸(3)と糸(5)、黄色
  d:糸(4)、青色 。
図1A中、編地10は、横方向がウェール方向、縦方向がコース方向である。aは、糸(1)と糸(5)の2本の糸を含んだコースで、糸(5)の作用で糸束aは収縮しやすい。色は黄色である。bは糸(2)と糸(5)の2本の糸を含んだコースで、糸(5)の作用で糸束bは収縮しやすい。色は青色であるcは糸(3)と糸(5)の2本の糸を含んだコースで、糸(5)の作用で糸束cは収縮しやすい。色は黄色である。dは糸(4)のみで、収縮率が大きい糸(5)を含んでいないコースである。dは1本の糸であるが、複数の糸を含んでいてもよい。色は青色である。糸束aは複数コースに編み込まれるが、好ましくは1コース以上10コース以下である。ほかの糸束b、c、dについても同様である。図1Aでは、わかりやすいために、aとbとの間に空白があるが、複数種の糸束はコース方向に空白はなく連続して配置されている。このように、複数種の糸束(a,b,c,d)のうち少なくとも1種の糸束は、他の糸束と異なる色相を有し、少なくとも2種の糸束がコース方向に交互に編成されている。
図1Bは、図1Aの編地10における、コース方向A-A間断面イメージ図である。おもて面であるニードル面11を矢印で示している。図1Bに示すとおり、本発明の編地はコース方向の断面形状がリブ状の凸凹となっている。高さHは、最高凸部から最低凹部までの距離を高さとして測定する。
図1Cは、複数種の糸束と凸凹の形状との位置関係を示している。糸(1)と糸(5)を含むaは、リブ状凸凹の側面に位置する。糸(2)と糸(5)を含むbが、表面(ここではニードル面11)から見た凹凸の凹部に位置する。糸(3)と糸(5)を含むcは、リブ状凸凹の側面に位置する。糸(4)を含むdが、ニードル面11から見た凸凹の凸部に位置する。実施の1つ態様では、収縮しやすい糸(5)を含むa、bおよびcが収縮することで、収縮しにくいdを持ち上げて凸部を形成している。aからdの凸凹上の位置は、糸の収縮率等から特定の位置になるように制御でき、コース方向に連続的に形成される凸凹形状と糸束の位置関係は規則的である。なお、表凸部とは、図1Aのdのことであり、裏凸部(凹部)とは図1Aのb部で形成されている。
また、aからdのいずれかに色相の異なる糸束を少なくとも1つ配置することにより、同じ編地の中に複数の色を有することができる。そして、凸凹形状の特定の場所に特定の糸束、つまり特定の色相の色を配置する構成が得られる。図1Cでは、aとcが黄色、bとdが青色であるので、観察者が正面から編地を見ると、凸凹部のbとdの青色に見え、観測者が斜めから編地を見ると、青色に加え黄色も見えるので全体として緑がかった色に見える。なお、aからdが、それぞれ色相の異なる2色以上の色相の糸を含むと、色相の変化が多様な色で構成されるので、見る角度によって色相が微妙に変化し、より好ましい。また、それぞれ色相の異なる2色以上の色相の糸は模様や柄を形成し、見る角度によって柄が変化し、より好ましい。
これら編地の凸凹形状と複数の色相を組み合わせることで、見る角度によって色や柄が変化する編地を作成することができる。ここで、表面がニードル面11として表記しているが、製品において、シンカー面を表として使用することも可能である。シンカー面を製品の表とした場合、製品の表における糸の配置や設計は反対となる。
In the present invention, “a knitted fabric in which plural types of yarn bundles knitted by weft knitting are knitted in the direction of wales” means that plural types of yarn bundles form one knitting unit, and a plurality of types of yarn bundles are knitted. The unit is a knitted fabric which is repeatedly woven in the direction of the wales of the knitted fabric. Here, to be knitted in the wale direction is to be knitted while switching a plurality of types of yarn bundles one by one in the advancing direction in which the knitting is advanced. A plurality of types of yarn bundles are knitting units for characterizing the knitted fabric, and are, for example, knitting units that form a rib-like uneven or wave-like shape. The combination of materials and characteristics such as fineness, hue, shrinkability and extensibility is important for a plurality of types of yarn bundles, and each yarn bundle may be different or the same. However, as described later, at least one (seed) yarn bundle needs to be different in hue from other yarn bundles. For each yarn bundle, the same yarn bundle may be used depending on the role in the knitting unit.
In the description using drawings to be described later, in a plurality of types of yarn bundles, each yarn bundle is described as a, b, c, d, e. For example, two yarn bundles are represented by a and b, and four yarn bundles are represented by a, b, c and d. The upper limit number of plural types of yarn bundles is not particularly limited, but considering the frequency of switching the yarn bundles and rib-like irregularities formed on the knitted fabric, it is preferably up to eight, more preferably four. . Next, to be knitted by weft knitting means that plural kinds of yarns are sequentially knitted in the weft direction, but, for example, four kinds of yarn bundles of a, b, c, d are used as a repeating unit. It means that knitting is formed. Furthermore, as described later, it is preferable that four types of yarn bundles, a, b, c, and d, constitute one knitting unit, and form a convex-concave shape of one cycle. This is because a regular and stable thickness knitted fabric can be obtained by forming a concavo-convex shape with four types of repeating units. The number of courses formed by a plurality of yarn bundles of a, b, c and d depends on the thickness and knitting method of the yarn bundles, but can be switched to the next yarn bundle in several courses at most 12 courses. The method of switching the yarn bundle may be a method used in a general horizontal knitting machine (round knitting machine). The yarn bundles of a, b, c and d form areas when they are woven for several courses, so in the knitted fabric they are also called a part, b part, c part and d part respectively, a, b, c, How to count d may be "seed" or "site".
At least one yarn bundle among a plurality of yarn bundles has a hue different from that of the other yarn bundles in a knitted fabric in which a plurality of yarn bundles knitted by weft knitting are knitted in the wale direction. A plurality of types of yarn bundles do not all have the same hue, and some types of yarn bundles are in the state of being composed of yarn bundles different in hue from other yarn bundles. When four types of yarn, a, b, c, d, are used as repeating units, for example, when a is a color different from b, c, and d, a, c, b, d, Also includes cases of different colors. The number of yarn bundles having a hue different from one another may be one or two. The position (order) at which the yarn bundles of different hues are arranged may or may not be adjacent to a. The number of hues of the plurality of yarn bundles may be a number of suitable colors that satisfy the configuration that makes the colors appear different depending on the angles described later. That is, in the case of four types, among the plurality of thread bundles, the number of thread bundles having a color different from that of the other thread bundles may be appropriately selected so that a color change appears. There may be different hues.
Next, formation of rib-like irregularities in the course direction will be described. It is important that the knitted fabric of the present invention is a knitted fabric in which at least two types of yarn bundles are knitted alternately in the course direction and continuously form unevenness in the course direction.
The use of a plurality of types of yarn bundles means that the knitted fabric can form irregularities continuously in the course direction by regularly and repeatedly arranging the yarn bundles having different contraction rates and extensibility in the course direction. Regularly repeating includes repeating alternately depending on the number and arrangement pattern of a plurality of types of yarn bundles. In the present invention, “arrange yarn bundles different in contraction rate and extensibility in the course direction” means that the contraction rates and elongation rates of adjacent yarn bundles are different from each other among multiple types of yarn bundles, and the contraction rates And yarn bundles with different extensibility are alternately arranged. When two or more types of yarn bundles are used, by alternately arranging yarn bundles different in contraction rate and extensibility, it becomes a knitted fabric which forms regular unevenness in the course direction. When three or more kinds of yarn bundles are contained, one kind of yarn bundle different in contraction rate and extensibility from others is contained, and three kinds of yarn bundles are repeatedly arranged in the course direction to continuously form unevenness in the course direction It is preferable to make it wavy. When four or more types of thread bundles are included, one or two types of thread bundles having different contraction rates and extensibility are included, and four types of thread bundles are repeatedly arranged in the course direction to continuously form irregularities. It is preferable to When four or more types of yarn bundles are used, the effect of forming irregularities by yarn bundles having different contraction rates and elongation rates is obtained at four locations: convex and concave portions, and both sides from convex to concave and concave to convex It is particularly preferable because it can be configured.
As will be described later, a yarn bundle having a high shrinkage ratio and extensibility can be obtained by adding a yarn having contraction elasticity to the yarn of the base. Therefore, functions can be added independently of the hues of the plurality of types of yarn bundles described above. As a result, the number and arrangement pattern of yarn bundles different in shrinkage ratio and extensibility can be determined independently of the hue possessed by a plurality of yarn bundles, so that different color effects can be easily obtained by a plurality of yarn bundles, It is preferable to design the uneven shape. The unevenness height of this knitted fabric may be changed as appropriate depending on the use, but when used for clothing, the height of unevenness (height from concave to convex) is 0.3 to 3.0 mm. The range is preferred, more preferably 0.3 to 1.5 mm. When used as materials such as curtains and covers, the range of 0.3 to 4.0 mm is preferable, and more preferably 0.3 to 2.5 mm. Here, the height of the unevenness is a value obtained by depth measurement using a microscope. If it is less than 0.3 mm, the depth of unevenness is insufficient and it is difficult to obtain the hue effect. When it exceeds 3 mm or 4 mm, the convex portion is easily crushed and it is difficult to obtain a hue effect.
Next, respective yarns constituting a plurality of types of yarn bundles (a, b, c, d, e,...) Will be described. The yarn bundle often consists of a plurality of yarns. In the following description, for convenience, each yarn is represented as yarn (1), yarn (2), yarn (3), yarn (4), yarn (5), yarn ... yarn (n) . The yarn (1) to the yarn (n) are yarns having different properties such as material, fineness, hue, shrinkage, and extensibility. Each of the plurality of types of yarn bundles is composed of one or more yarns from yarn (1) to yarn (n). One kind of yarn bundle (a, b, c, d or e...) Among the plurality of kinds of yarn bundles is selected from any yarn from yarn (1) to yarn (n). In the present invention, it is preferable to combine, for example, the yarn (1) and the yarn (2) to form one kind of yarn bundle (a) in consideration of the two effects of the color effect and the uneven formation. The same yarn may be used for all of the plurality of yarn bundles, and different yarns may be used in combination depending on the purpose.
Here, as an example, the yarns (1) to (4) have low shrinkage and extensibility, and the yarn (5) has high shrinkage and high extensibility. In the case where there are four types of yarn bundles, yarns (1) to (4) are placed in a to d, respectively, and yarn (5) is placed on a in combination with yarn (1) alone. Then, one of a plurality of types of yarn bundles including the yarn (1) and the yarn (5): a is easily shrunk and its extensibility also becomes high. That is, in the case of the yarn bundle including the yarn (5), the yarn bundle is shrunk to be a three-dimensional knitted fabric. A knitted fabric having a yarn bundle in which a yarn (5) having a high contraction rate is combined with any one of a plurality of yarn bundles is likely to be recessed or lifted from a plane at the yarn bundle. In addition, in relation to the hues of the plurality of yarn bundles described above, it is sufficient that one kind is a yarn bundle of a hue different from another, but according to the knitting unit of plural kinds of yarn bundles, yarn bundles of different colors are always convex It will be formed in a part or recess, and will be formed in the remaining recess or convex part, the side surface between convex and concave, and the side surface between concave and convex.
Hereinafter, the configuration of the yarn in the yarn bundle, the configuration of a plurality of yarn bundles, and the rib-like unevenness will be described using the knitted fabric shown in FIG. 1A.
FIG. 1A is a schematic view showing an example of a knitted fabric which forms the concavo-convex shape of the present invention. FIG. 1A is an image view of a knitted fabric as viewed from the surface, and FIG. 1B is a cross-sectional image view of the knitted fabric when cut in the course direction. FIG. 1C is a sectional image view in which a part of FIG. 1B is enlarged. In FIG. 1A, in the knitted fabric 10, plural kinds of yarn bundles and four kinds (a, b, c, d) repeat in the course direction, and a to d are continuous on the knitting ground.
Plural kinds of yarn bundles use five yarns of yarn (1) to yarn (5) in total.
The color and shrinkage of yarn (1) to yarn (5) are as follows: yarn (1): yellow, shrinkage small yarn (2): blue, shrinkage small yarn (3): yellow, shrinkage small Yarn (4): blue, shrinkage small yarn (5): white, large shrinkage.
The combination of yarn (1) to yarn (4) in a plurality of yarn bundles (a, b, c, d) is as follows: a: yarn (1) and yarn (5), yellow b: yarn () 2) and yarn (5), blue c: yarn (3) and yarn (5), yellow d: yarn (4), blue.
In FIG. 1A, in the knitted fabric 10, the lateral direction is the wale direction, and the longitudinal direction is the course direction. a is a course including two yarns of yarn (1) and yarn (5), and the yarn bundle a is easily contracted by the action of the yarn (5). The color is yellow. b is a course including two yarns of yarn (2) and yarn (5), and the yarn bundle b is easily shrunk by the action of the yarn (5). The color is blue c is a course including two yarns of yarn (3) and yarn (5), and the yarn bundle c is easily shrunk by the action of the yarn (5). The color is yellow. d is a course including only the yarn (4) and not including the yarn (5) having a large contraction rate. Although d is one thread, it may include a plurality of threads. The color is blue. The yarn bundle a is knitted in a plurality of courses, but is preferably 1 or more and 10 or less. The same applies to the other yarn bundles b, c and d. In FIG. 1A, although there is a space between a and b for the sake of clarity, a plurality of yarn bundles are continuously arranged without a space in the course direction. Thus, at least one of the plurality of yarn bundles (a, b, c, d) has a hue different from that of the other yarn bundles, and at least two yarn bundles alternate in the course direction. It is organized into
FIG. 1B is a cross-sectional image view between course direction AA in the knitted fabric 10 of FIG. 1A. The needle surface 11, which is the front surface, is indicated by an arrow. As shown in FIG. 1B, in the knitted fabric of the present invention, the cross-sectional shape in the course direction is rib-like irregularities. The height H is measured using the distance from the highest protrusion to the lowest recess as the height.
FIG. 1C shows the positional relationship between a plurality of types of thread bundles and the shape of the unevenness. The yarn a including the yarn (1) and the yarn (5) is located on the side surface of the rib-like unevenness. The b including the yarn (2) and the yarn (5) is located in the recessed portion of the unevenness viewed from the surface (here, the needle surface 11). C containing the yarn (3) and the yarn (5) is located on the side of the rib-like unevenness. The d including the thread (4) is located in the convex portion of the concavo-convex viewed from the needle surface 11. In one embodiment, a, b and c including the easily shrinkable yarn (5) are contracted to lift d which is difficult to be shrunk to form a protrusion. The positions on the unevenness of a to d can be controlled to be a specific position from the contraction rate of the yarn and the like, and the positional relationship between the unevenness formed continuously in the course direction and the yarn bundle is regular. In addition, a front convex part is d of FIG. 1A, and a back convex part (concave part) is formed of b part of FIG. 1A.
Also, by arranging at least one yarn bundle with different hue in any of a to d, it is possible to have a plurality of colors in the same knitted fabric. And the structure which arrange | positions a specific thread bundle, ie, the color of a specific hue, in the specific place of uneven shape is obtained. In FIG. 1C, since a and c are yellow and b and d are blue, when the viewer looks at the knitted fabric from the front, it looks like blue of b and d of the concavities and convexities, and the observer looks obliquely from the knitted fabric And, in addition to blue, it looks yellowish, so it looks greenish as a whole. When a to d include yarns of two or more hues having different hues, the hue changes slightly depending on the viewing angle because the hue changes in various colors, which is more preferable. In addition, yarns of two or more hues having different hues form a pattern or a pattern, and the pattern changes depending on the viewing angle, which is more preferable.
By combining the uneven shape of the knitted fabric and a plurality of hues, it is possible to create a knitted fabric whose color or pattern changes depending on the viewing angle. Here, although the surface is described as the needle surface 11, it is also possible to use the sinker surface as a surface in the product. If the sinker surface is the product table, the arrangement and design of yarns in the product table will be reversed.
 ウェール方向に沿って表側に突出したリブ状の表凸部(図1B中d)と、同じくウェール方向に沿って裏側に湾曲して突出したリブ状の裏凸部(表凹部、図1B中b)とをコース方向に交互に連続させた形状を備え、前記コース方向に沿った切断面の形状が図1、C編地断面イメージ拡大図のようにabcdabcdの繰り返しのように波状に形成される編地が好ましく使用される。
ここで、見る角度によって色が変化する状態を説明する。リブ状に凹凸を形成することで、見る角度と凸部の関係によって、凹部にある色や凸部の視認方向とは反対側の色を隠すことができるためである。たとえば、正面から見たときは、リブ状の凸凹部の色が見えやすく、上斜めから見たときは凸部の側面の色が見えやすく、かつ、凸部の視認方向とは反対の側面の色は見えにくい。
また、リブ状の形状は任意に設定することが可能であり、細かく短ピッチや薄いリブ状凹凸を形成するためには、ハイゲージの編機を使用することや、糸の繰り返し間隔を短くすることで対応できる。また、大きなリブ状凹凸形状にするには、ローゲージの編機を使用し、糸の繰り返し間隔を大きくすれば良い。また、表凸部分を大きく広くし、任意の場所、任意の間隔に裏凸部(表凹部)を形成することも可能である。また、リブ状凹凸は染色加工時のプレセットや仕上げセットで間隔を調整することもでき、裏凸部(表凹部)を収縮させることで、裏凸部(表凹部)が見えにくく、生地を伸長させた時に裏凸部(表凹部)が現れる編地に設定することも可能である。
以上のように、複数種の糸束を備え、複数種の糸束(a,b,c,d)のうち少なくとも1種の糸束は、他の糸束と異なる色相を有し、少なくとも2種の糸束がコース方向に交互に編成されている。その色相と表面凸凹形状を制御しつつヨコ編で編成された編地は、伸縮性や風合いが良好で、見る角度によって色や柄が変化するため効果を有する。
別の実施態様を図2Aと図2Bおよび図3Aと図3Bを用いて説明する。
図2Aは、糸(1)と糸(5)を含むa2が異なる色を有し、a2を表凹部(図2B参照)に配置した編地例である。
複数種の糸束は、全部での5つの糸を用いる。
糸(1)~糸(5)の色と収縮率は次のとおりである
糸(1):黄色、収縮率小さい
糸(2):青色、収縮率小さい
糸(3):青色、収縮率小さい
糸(4):青色、収縮率小さい
糸(5):白色、収縮率大きい 。
複数種の糸束(a、b、c、d)における、糸の組み合わせは次のとおりである
 a2:糸(1)と糸(5)、黄色
 b2:糸(2)と糸(5)、青色
 c2:糸(3)、青色
 d2:糸(4)と糸(5)、青色 。
図3Aは、糸(1)と糸(5)を含むa3と糸(3)と糸(5)を含むc3が異なる色を有し、a3とc3を凹凸形状の凸部の両側の側面に配置した編地例である。
複数種の糸束は、全部で糸(1)から糸(5)の5つの糸を用いる。
糸(1)から糸(5)の色と収縮率は次のとおりである
糸(1):黄色、収縮率小さい
糸(2):青色、収縮率小さい
糸(3):白色、収縮率小さい
糸(4):青色、収縮率小さい
糸(5):白色、収縮率大きい 。
複数種の糸束(a、b、c、d)における、糸(1)から糸(4)の組み合わせは次のとおりである
 a3:糸(1)と糸(5)、黄色
 b3:糸(2)と糸(5)、青色
 c3:糸(3)と糸(5)、白色
 d3:糸(4)、青色 。
図2Aにおいて、糸(1)と糸(5)を含む糸束aによる編目は、表凹部であるa2の位置に配置され、糸(3)が表凸部c2に位置し、その他の糸がb2とd2に位置する。図3Aにおいて、糸(2)と糸(5)を含む糸束bによる編目は、表凹部のb3に位置し、糸(4)を含む糸束dによる編目は表凸部のd3に位置する。糸(1)と糸(5)を含む糸束aによる編目が凸部の側面にあるa3の位置する。糸(3)と糸(5)を含む糸束cによる編目がc3(凸部の側面の他方)に位置する。ここで、a2~d2は1コースでもよく、複数コースでもよい。また、a2からb2、b2からc2、c2からd2、d2からa2は編地上において連続している。a3~d3についても同様である。
図2Aの実施態様において、編地は、ヨコ編であって、かつ、表面凸凹が伸縮するため伸張性が良好である。さらに、正面から編地を見たときには青色と黄色が観察され、斜めから編地を見たときは青色に観察される。また、編地の表面凸凹が伸長したときには黄色がよく観察される。このように、見る角度によって色相が変化する伸縮性が良好な編地が得られる。
図3Aの実施態様において、編地は、ヨコ編であって、かつ、表面凸凹が伸縮するため伸張性が良好である。さらに、正面から編地を見たときには青色が観察され、斜めから編地を見たときは黄色が観察され、逆方向の斜めから編地を見たときは白色が観察される。このように、見る角度によって色相が変化する伸縮性が良好な編地が得られる。
図4は、本発明の凹凸形状を形成する編地の一例を示す概略図であり、図4Aは表面から見た編地の写真であり、図4Bはコース方向で切断した場合の編地の断面写真である。
A rib-like front convex portion (d in FIG. 1B) projecting to the front side along the wale direction and a rib-like back convex portion (front concavity, b in FIG. 1B) similarly curved and projected to the back side along the wale direction And the shape of the cut surface along the course direction is formed in a wavelike shape as in a repetition of abcdabcd as shown in FIG. 1, C knitted fabric cross-sectional image enlarged view). Knitted fabrics are preferably used.
Here, the state in which the color changes depending on the viewing angle will be described. By forming the concavities and convexities in a rib shape, it is possible to hide the color in the concave part and the color on the opposite side to the visual direction of the convex part depending on the relationship between the viewing angle and the convex part. For example, when viewed from the front, the color of the rib-like convex and concave is easily visible, and when viewed obliquely from above, the color of the side of the convex is easily visible, and the side opposite to the visual direction of the convex is The color is hard to see.
In addition, the rib-like shape can be set arbitrarily, and in order to form fine short pitches and thin rib-like irregularities, using a high gauge knitting machine or shortening the repetition interval of the yarn It can correspond by. Moreover, in order to make it large rib-shaped uneven | corrugated shape, a low gauge knitting machine may be used and the repetition interval of thread | yarn should be enlarged. Further, it is also possible to make the front convex portion large and wide, and to form the back convex portion (front concave portion) at an arbitrary place and at an arbitrary interval. In addition, rib-like unevenness can also adjust the interval with the pre-set and finish set at the time of dyeing processing, and by shrinking the back convex part (front concave part), the back convex part (front concave part) is difficult to see, It is also possible to set it as the knitted fabric which a back convex part (front concave part) appears when it is made to extend.
As described above, at least one yarn bundle of the plurality of yarn bundles (a, b, c, d) has a different hue from that of the other yarn bundles, and comprises at least two of the plural yarn bundles (a, b, c, d). Seed yarn bundles are knitted alternately in the course direction. A knitted fabric knitted by weft knitting while controlling its hue and surface unevenness has good stretchability and texture, and has an effect because the color and pattern change depending on the viewing angle.
Another embodiment is described using FIGS. 2A and 2B and FIGS. 3A and 3B.
FIG. 2A is an example of a knitted fabric in which a2 including yarn (1) and yarn (5) has different colors, and a2 is disposed in the front concave portion (see FIG. 2B).
A plurality of yarn bundles use a total of five yarns.
The color and shrinkage of yarn (1) to yarn (5) are as follows: yarn (1): yellow, shrinkage small yarn (2): blue, shrinkage small yarn (3): blue, shrinkage small Yarn (4): blue, shrinkage small yarn (5): white, large shrinkage.
The combination of yarns in a plurality of yarn bundles (a, b, c, d) is as follows: a2: yarn (1) and yarn (5), yellow b2: yarn (2) and yarn (5), Blue c2: Yarn (3), Blue d2: Yarn (4) and Yarn (5), Blue.
FIG. 3A shows that a3 containing yarn (1) and yarn (5) and c3 containing yarn (3) and yarn (5) have different colors, and a3 and c3 on the side surfaces on both sides of the convex portion of the uneven shape. It is an example of the arranged fabric.
Plural kinds of yarn bundles use five yarns of yarn (1) to yarn (5) in total.
The color and shrinkage of yarn (1) to yarn (5) are as follows: yarn (1): yellow, shrinkage small yarn (2): blue, shrinkage small yarn (3): white, shrinkage small Yarn (4): blue, shrinkage small yarn (5): white, large shrinkage.
The combination of yarn (1) to yarn (4) in a plurality of yarn bundles (a, b, c, d) is as follows: a3: yarn (1) and yarn (5), yellow b3: yarn (3) 2) and yarn (5), blue c3: yarn (3) and yarn (5), white d3: yarn (4), blue.
In FIG. 2A, the stitches of the yarn bundle a including the yarn (1) and the yarn (5) are disposed at the position of a2 which is the front concave portion, the yarn (3) is positioned at the front convex portion c2, and the other yarns are Located at b2 and d2. In FIG. 3A, the stitch by the yarn bundle b including the yarn (2) and the yarn (5) is positioned at b3 of the front concave portion, and the stitch by the yarn bundle d including yarn (4) is positioned at d3 of the front convex portion . The stitches of the yarn bundle a including the yarn (1) and the yarn (5) are located at a3 on the side of the convex portion. The stitches of the yarn bundle c including the yarn (3) and the yarn (5) are located at c3 (the other side of the convex portion). Here, a2 to d2 may be one course or plural courses. Further, a2 to b2, b2 to c2, c2 to d2, and d2 to a2 are continuous on the knitting ground. The same applies to a3 to d3.
In the embodiment of FIG. 2A, the knitted fabric is a weft knit and has good extensibility because the surface irregularities expand and contract. Furthermore, when the fabric is viewed from the front, blue and yellow are observed, and when the fabric is viewed obliquely, it is observed as blue. Also, when the surface unevenness of the knitted fabric is elongated, yellow is often observed. In this way, a knitted fabric having good stretchability in which the hue changes depending on the viewing angle can be obtained.
In the embodiment of FIG. 3A, the knitted fabric is a weft knit and has good extensibility because the surface irregularities expand and contract. Furthermore, when viewing the knitted fabric from the front, blue is observed, when viewing the knitted fabric obliquely, yellow is observed, and when viewing the knitted fabric obliquely from the opposite direction, white is observed. In this way, a knitted fabric having good stretchability in which the hue changes depending on the viewing angle can be obtained.
FIG. 4 is a schematic view showing an example of a knitted fabric forming the concavo-convex shape of the present invention, FIG. 4A is a photograph of the knitted fabric seen from the surface, and FIG. 4B is a knitted fabric when cut in the course direction. It is a cross section photograph.
 複数種の糸束が2色以上の色相となる方法は、以下に限定されないが、コース方向に交互に編み込まれている少なくとも2種の糸束が、染色性の異なる2種以上の糸束であることが好ましい。染色性の異なる糸束は、それぞれの糸束に用いる糸において、染色性の異なる糸を用いることが好ましい。それぞれの糸束(a、b、c、d)は、複数の糸(糸(1)、糸(2)、糸(3)・・・)を用いるが、その1本の糸の染色性がほかと異なっていることが好ましい。そして、編地内に形成する異なる色相を染色により設定することができる。これは、同一の生機にて複数の色目にも対応することができ、多品種小ロットの要求にも対応できる。また、生機を在庫として確保し、色目や量に対応できることは納期を短くすることもできるため、染色工程で色を設定できることは優位である。ここで、染色性が異なるとは、同一の染色法あるいは同一の染料では同色に染色されない糸を言い、異なった染色法あるいは異なった染料で染色することにより染め分けられる糸を言う。例えば、ナイロン糸とレーヨン糸を用いた編地は、酸性染料と直接染料で交互に染色することにより染め分けることができる。また、ポリエステルの原着糸とナイロンを用いる場合には、ナイロンのみを酸性染料または直接染料などで染色することで、2種以上の色相を持つ編地が得られることになる。 The method in which a plurality of types of yarn bundles have two or more colors is not limited to the following, but at least two types of yarn bundles alternately woven in the course direction are two or more types of yarn bundles having different dyeability. Is preferred. It is preferable that yarns having different dyeability be used in the yarns used for the respective yarn bundles. Although each yarn bundle (a, b, c, d) uses a plurality of yarns (Yarn (1), Yarn (2), Yarn (3), etc.), the dyeability of one yarn is It is preferable that it is different from others. And, different hues to be formed in the knitted fabric can be set by dyeing. This can correspond to a plurality of colors in the same living machine, and can also cope with the request of various types of small lots. In addition, it is advantageous to be able to set the color in the dyeing process, since it is possible to secure the living machine as a stock and to be able to shorten the delivery time to be able to correspond to the color and the amount. Here, the term "different in dyeability" means yarns that are not dyed in the same color by the same dyeing method or the same dye, and yarns that are dyed by dyeing by the different dyeing method or the different dye. For example, a knitted fabric using nylon yarn and rayon yarn can be dyed by alternately dyeing with an acid dye and a direct dye. In addition, in the case of using polyester base yarn and nylon, by dyeing only nylon with an acid dye or a direct dye, a knitted fabric having two or more hues can be obtained.
 編地を異なった染色法で染色することにより、編地内で2種以上の色相の異なる部位が存在し、見る角度によって色や柄が変化するように設計することが好ましい。例えば、コース方向に凹凸を形成している編地の凸の頂点部や凹の底辺部の色相を変えることで、見る角度により凹部が凸部に隠され、凹部の色が見えないことになる。これにより、見る角度により凹部の色が現れる編地となる。また、他の例として、凸部を形成するリブ状の側面に異なる色相を持つ糸をそれぞれ配置することで、見る角度により、一方の側面の色が隠される。これにより、見る角度により凹部の色が現れる編地となる。 By dyeing the knitted fabric by different dyeing methods, it is preferable to design so that there are two or more different portions of different hues in the knitted fabric, and the color and pattern change depending on the viewing angle. For example, by changing the hue of the convex apex and the base of the concave portion of the fabric forming the unevenness in the course direction, the concave portion is hidden by the convex depending on the viewing angle, and the color of the concave can not be seen . As a result, the color of the concave portion appears depending on the viewing angle. As another example, by arranging yarns having different hues on the rib-like side surfaces forming the convex portion, the color of one side surface is hidden by the viewing angle. As a result, the color of the concave portion appears depending on the viewing angle.
 ここで、より好ましくは、3種以上の色相を持つ編地である。3種以上の色相を持つことで、角度を変えた場合と角度を逆方向に変えた場合と、正面から見た場合と色の変化が強調されるためである。表面からは表凸部と裏凸部(表凹部)の色相が中心となり、角度を変えた場合には、リブ状凹凸の片側の側面に配置した色、角度を反対に変えた場合には、リブ状凹凸のもう一方の側面に配置した色となり、色の変化が強調される。
糸(1)から糸(4)としては、ナイロン糸、ポリエステル糸、レーヨン糸等の編地として使用可能なものであればよい。なお、編地内の糸ごとに染色性を変化させるために、2種以上の原料が好ましく用いられる。
Here, more preferably, it is a knitted fabric having three or more hues. By having three or more hues, it is because the change in color is emphasized when the angle is changed, when the angle is changed in the opposite direction, when viewed from the front, and when it is viewed from the front. When the angle is changed, the color and angle arranged on the side of one side of the rib-shaped unevenness are reversed, when the angle is changed from the surface to the center of the hue of the front convex portion and the back convex portion (front concave portion). The color is arranged on the other side of the rib-like unevenness to emphasize the change in color.
The yarn (1) to the yarn (4) may be any one that can be used as a knitted fabric such as nylon yarn, polyester yarn, rayon yarn and the like. In addition, in order to change dyeability for every yarn in a knitted fabric, two or more types of raw materials are preferably used.
 収縮率が大きく伸張性を有する糸(5)としては、ポリウレタン弾性糸、または、ポリウレタン弾性糸を用いたカバーリング糸、または、沸騰水収縮率の10%以上の高収縮糸を編地の少なくとも一部に配した糸が好ましい。高収縮糸のより好ましい範囲は、沸騰水収縮率は10%以上30%以下である。
この編地の特徴であるリブ状凹凸形状は、通常ポリエステルや通常ナイロン糸と、ポリウレタン弾性糸のような伸長性や熱での収縮性が異なる糸を、編地のコース方向に交互に配置することで部分的に収縮する編地となる。これにより、編地にリブ状凹凸を形成することができる。より好ましくは、ポリウレタン弾性糸のような伸長性や熱での収縮性糸が異なる糸をナイロン糸やポリエステル糸とプレーティング編することや、高収縮糸をリバーシブル組織(表裏引き揃え組織)のような表裏組織を、部分的に配置することで綺麗な凹凸を形成することができる。この場合、通常ポリエステルや通常ナイロン糸の収縮特性は沸騰水収縮率が10%以下であることが好ましい。ここで、ポリウレタン弾性糸が好ましいが、熱収縮率が高い共重合ポリエステル糸や熱収縮率が高いナイロン糸などを使用してリブ状凹凸を形成することもできる。
Polyurethane elastic yarn, or covering yarn using polyurethane elastic yarn, or high contraction yarn having a boiling water contraction ratio of 10% or more as a yarn (5) having a large contraction ratio and extensibility It is preferable to use a yarn partially disposed. A more preferable range of the high shrinkage yarn is a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or more and 30% or less.
The rib-like concavo-convex shape, which is a feature of this knitted fabric, alternately arranges polyester or normal nylon yarns and yarns such as polyurethane elastic yarns that differ in extensibility and heat shrinkage, in the course direction of the knitted fabric. It becomes a knitted fabric that partially shrinks. Thereby, rib-shaped unevenness can be formed on the knitted fabric. More preferably, a yarn such as polyurethane elastic yarn different in extensibility and heat shrinkable yarn is plated with nylon yarn or polyester yarn with plait knitting, or high contraction yarn is reversible texture (face-to-face alignment). By arranging the front and back tissue partially, it is possible to form a clean asperity. In this case, it is preferable that the shrinkage characteristics of the normal polyester or normal nylon yarn have a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or less. Here, although a polyurethane elastic yarn is preferable, rib-shaped unevenness can also be formed using a copolyester yarn having a high thermal contraction rate, a nylon yarn having a high thermal contraction rate, or the like.
 縫製品にて使用する場合に、編地のウェール方向を縫製品の緯方向にしてボーダー状に使用しても良いが、編地のウェール方向を縫製品の経方向に使用してストライプ状に使用してもよい。ストライプ状に使用することで、衣料品とした場合に、左と右で色が異なる生地となる。ここで、縫製品とは、スポーツウェアや水着、ボトム、コートのような衣料品や縫製品の一部の他、カバン類、靴類、帽子やマフラーなどの小物、クッションやカバー類、カーテンやシート材、テーブル掛等の室内装飾品など資材用の生地としても使用できる。 When used in a sewn product, the wales of the knitted fabric may be used as the border with the weft direction of the sewn product, but the wales of the knitted fabric may be used as stripes in the warp direction of the sewn product. You may use it. By using it in the form of stripes, when it is used as a clothing item, it becomes a fabric with different colors on the left and right. Here, sewing products include sportswear and swimwear, bottoms, clothing products such as coats and sewing products, bags, shoes, accessories such as hats and scarves, cushions and covers, curtains and the like. It can also be used as a material for materials such as upholstery such as sheet materials and table hooks.
 本発明の編地においては、従来の編地で用いられる各種の糸、例えば、各種合成繊維、再生繊維のフィラメント糸、天然繊維、人造繊維、及びそれらの繊維を含んでなる紡績糸、ポリウレタン(スパンデックス)糸の如き弾性糸等を用いることができ、さらに合糸、カバリング糸としてもよく、目的に応じて任意に用いることができる。仮撚糸や捲縮糸を用いることで部分的に収縮させた生地において、収縮が小さい部位がプレーンな表面感になるために好ましく使用される。一方、収縮しにくいフラットヤーンを収縮が小さい部位に用いて、織物サッカー調のシボを出すことも可能である。また、原着糸や先染め糸など目的や加工方法に応じて使用することができる。
上記の繊維の繊度は特に限定されるものではなく、市販のものを目的に応じて用いることができるが、ソフトな風合いにするには、単糸繊度を1.5dtex以下にすることが好ましい。さらに好ましくは、繊度0.1dtex以上で、単糸繊度が細すぎると発色性が小さくなり衣料用途や資材用途でも使用できる範囲が狭くなる。また、上記の繊維には、つや消し剤としての酸化チタン等の添加剤を含有させることもできるが、色相において彩度の高い色を有する編地を得る目的のためには、つや消し剤を含有しないブライト糸が好ましい。
In the knitted fabric of the present invention, various yarns used in the conventional knitted fabric, for example, yarns of various synthetic fibers, filament yarns of regenerated fibers, natural fibers, artificial fibers, and yarns comprising those fibers, polyurethane ( Elastic yarns such as spandex yarns can be used, and further, yarns may be used as covering yarns and covering yarns, and may be optionally used according to the purpose. In a fabric partially shrunk by using false twisted yarn or crimped yarn, a portion with a small shrinkage is preferably used because it gives a plain surface feeling. On the other hand, it is also possible to use a flat yarn which is not easily shrunk at a portion where the shrinkage is small, to produce a texture of a woven and football-like texture. Moreover, it can be used according to the purpose and processing method, such as a primary binding yarn and a pre-dyed yarn.
The fineness of the above-mentioned fiber is not particularly limited, and commercially available ones can be used according to the purpose, but in order to make the texture soft, it is preferable to make the single yarn fineness 1.5 dtex or less. More preferably, when the fineness is 0.1 dtex or more and the fineness of the single yarn is too small, the coloring property becomes small, and the range which can be used for clothing or material use becomes narrow. The above-mentioned fibers may also contain additives such as titanium oxide as a matting agent, but they do not contain a matting agent for the purpose of obtaining a knitted fabric having a color with high saturation in hue. Bright yarn is preferred.
 生地表面と裏面が凹凸形状であるので、生地に優れた伸縮性を有し、そしてまた、リブ状の凹凸部で肌に当たる面も少ないため、発汗時のべたつきを抑え、更に凹部が常に空気に触れ、表面積も大きいため速乾性にも優れている。さらには、異形断面糸やフィラメント数が多い糸など吸水速乾性の機能糸を使用することで吸い取った汗を拡散し更なる速乾性を得ることができる。また、表凸部を親水性繊維、裏凸部(表凹部)を疎水性繊維で編成すれば凸部で吸い取った汗を素早く表側へ移行し蒸発するので発汗時のべたつきを効果的に抑えさらなる快適性を得ることができる。色変化の意匠性だけでなく、機能性素材としてスポーツウエアやニットウエアなどの衣料の使用にも好適である。 Since the surface and the back of the fabric are uneven, the fabric has excellent stretchability, and since the rib-like uneven portion has less surface to hit the skin, it suppresses stickiness at the time of sweating, and the concave is always air Because it has a large surface area, it is also excellent in quick drying. Furthermore, it is possible to diffuse absorbed sweat by using a water-absorbing quick-drying functional yarn such as a yarn of irregular cross-section or a yarn having a large number of filaments, and to obtain further rapid drying. Also, if the surface convex portion is knitted with hydrophilic fibers and the back convex portion (surface concave portion) with hydrophobic fibers, the sweat absorbed by the convex portion is quickly transferred to the front side and evaporated, and the stickiness at the time of sweating is effectively suppressed and further You can get comfort. It is suitable not only for the design of color change but also for the use of clothing such as sportswear and knitwear as functional materials.
 本発明の編地においては、シングル編機を用いて編成することで、薄く、目付の軽い編地を作成することができる。薄く、目付を軽くすることで、衣料用にも適した生地になり、カバー類として使用する場合にも、小さい製品にも使用できるようになる。 In the knitted fabric of the present invention, by using a single knitting machine, it is possible to create a thin, light-weight knitted fabric. By making it thin and light in weight, it becomes a cloth suitable for clothing, and can be used for small products, even when used as covers.
 使用する編機としては、本発明の目的とする編地が得られるものであればよいが、特に丸編機やヨコ編機が好ましい。この他に、靴下編機でも編成でき、さらに、サントーニ社製特殊丸編機や島精機製ホールガーメントなどの無縫製編機を使用して部分的にこの編地形態を作成することも可能である。 As a knitting machine to be used, any knitting machine that can obtain the target of the present invention can be used, and in particular, a circular knitting machine and a horizontal knitting machine are preferable. Besides, it is also possible to knit with a sock knitting machine, and furthermore, it is also possible to partially create this knitting form using a non-sewing knitting machine such as a special circular knitting machine made by Santoni or a wholesale garment made by Shima Seiki is there.
 編物組織としては編地が得られるものであれば限定されるものではないが、2つの糸を部分的にプレーティング編成した変形リバーシブル天竺組織、変形ベア天竺組織、変形ベア鹿の子、変形ベアメッシュなどシングル編地が好ましく使用される。 The knitted fabric structure is not limited as long as a knitted fabric can be obtained, but it is not limited, but it is a modified reversible pummel structure formed by plating two yarns partially, a deformed bare pimp fabric, a deformed bare deerskin, a deformed bare mesh Single knits are preferably used.
 実施例で用いた特性値の測定法を以下に説明する。
(1)通気量:
 通気量は、2015年度版JIS-L-1096(フラジール形法)によって測定した。通気量は、1秒間に単位面積あたりの気体量[cc/cm/秒]で表す。測定は、温度20℃、湿度65RH%で行った。
(2)裏面保水率:
 ガラス板上に蒸留水1.0ccを滴下し、その上にサンプルサイズ10cm×10cmの編物を、裏面が蒸留水に接する下側を向くように載置した。60秒間放置した後、この編地を別のガラス板上に移し、同一サイズにカットしたろ紙2枚でサンドイッチ状に挟み、5g/mの荷重をかけたまま60秒間放置した。その後、もとの編地質量と吸水後の編地質量との差から編地の保水質量を算出した。また、表面と裏面に接した各々のろ紙の含水質量から編地の表面および裏面の保水率を算出した。このような操作を編地3枚について同様に行い、平均値を裏面保水率とした。なお、裏面とは、編地が肌と接する面を示す。
The measuring method of the characteristic value used in the Example is demonstrated below.
(1) Ventilation rate:
The air flow rate was measured by fiscal 2015 JIS-L-1096 (Frazil method). The aeration amount is represented by the amount of gas per unit area [cc / cm 2 / sec] per second. The measurement was performed at a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65 RH%.
(2) Back side water retention rate:
1.0 cc of distilled water was dropped on a glass plate, and a knitted fabric with a sample size of 10 cm × 10 cm was placed thereon with the back surface facing downward in contact with distilled water. After standing for 60 seconds, this knitted fabric was transferred onto another glass plate, sandwiched between two sheets of filter paper cut to the same size, and left for 60 seconds with a load of 5 g / m 2 applied. Thereafter, the water holding mass of the knitted fabric was calculated from the difference between the original knitted fabric mass and the knitted fabric mass after water absorption. Further, the water retention rates of the front and back surfaces of the knitted fabric were calculated from the water-containing mass of each filter paper in contact with the front and back surfaces. Such an operation was similarly performed about three knit fabrics, and let an average value be a back surface water retention rate. In addition, a back surface shows the surface which a knitted fabric contacts with the skin.
 裏面保水率が小さいものは、滴下された蒸留水を効率よく表面側に移動し、いわゆる透水能力に優れ着用時にベタツキ感が少ない。裏面保水率は以下のように評価する
  A:裏面保水率20%未満
  B:裏面保水率20%以上 。
(3)吸水性
編地からサイズ約15cm×15cmの試験片を3枚採取し、各試験片を直径10cm以上の刺繍枠あるいはビーカーに、余分な張力がかからないように、肌面側を上にして、試験片の表面が水平となるように置いて固定する。測定は、温度20℃で実施した。
When the back surface water retention rate is small, the dropped distilled water is efficiently moved to the surface side, and the so-called water permeability is excellent and there is little stickiness when worn. The back side water retention rate is evaluated as follows. A: Back side water retention rate less than 20% B: Back side water retention rate 20% or more.
(3) Collect 3 test pieces of about 15 cm × 15 cm in size from the water-absorbent fabric, and place each skin on the skin side up so that no extra tension is applied to the embroidery frame or beaker with a diameter of 10 cm or more. And place the sample so that the surface of the test piece is horizontal. The measurement was performed at a temperature of 20 ° C.
  また、1滴(約0.005cc)の蒸留水が垂直に滴下するように調整した注射針(TERUMO26G1/2,0.45×13mm,注射器の容量1cc)の先端が、水平に置いた試験片の表面から5cm離れるように所定のホルダーに固定する。 In addition, a test piece in which the tip of the injection needle (TERUMO 26G1 / 2, 0.45 × 13 mm, syringe capacity 1 cc) adjusted so that 1 drop (about 0.005 cc) of distilled water is dropped vertically is placed horizontally It fixes to a predetermined holder so that 5 cm away from the surface of.
  この状態で、水滴を試験片上に1滴滴下した時から、試験片上の水滴が特別な反射をしなくなるまでの吸水時間をストップウォッチで測定し、0.1秒単位で読み取る。ここで、「特別な反射をしなくなる」状態とは、試験片が水滴を吸収するにつれて鏡面反射が消え、湿潤だけが残った状態をいう。 In this state, when one drop of water drops is dropped on the test piece, the water absorption time until the water drop on the test piece stops special reflection is measured with a stopwatch and read in 0.1 second units. Here, the "no special reflection" state means that the specular reflection disappears as the test piece absorbs the water drop, and only the wetting remains.
  以上の操作を全ての試験片について行い、吸水速度の平均値をその編地の吸水速度とする。
(4)速乾性
拡散性残留水分率を用いて評価する。まず、温度20℃、湿度65%RHで調湿した編地からサイズ10cm×10cmの試験片を3枚採取した後、各試験片の重量を測定し、これを元重量とする。
The above operation is performed on all the test pieces, and the average value of the water absorption rate is taken as the water absorption rate of the knitted fabric.
(4) Evaluate using fast-drying diffusible residual moisture content. First, three test pieces of 10 cm × 10 cm in size are collected from a knitted fabric conditioned at a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH, and then the weight of each test piece is measured and used as the original weight.
  続いて、ガラス板上に蒸留水0.3mlを滴下し、試験片の肌面が蒸留水に接するように載せ、5秒間放置する。 Subsequently, 0.3 ml of distilled water is dropped on a glass plate, and the skin surface of the test piece is placed in contact with the distilled water and left for 5 seconds.
  試験片を上記の如くガラス板上に載せてから5秒経過した後、直ちに試験片をハンガー型重量測りにつり下げて重量測定を行う。その後、5分ごとに試験片の重量を測定する。なお、重量の測定値は小数第3位まで求める。そして、5分ごとに測定した重量と元重量とを用いることにより、次式で定義される拡散性残留水分率(%)を算出する。 Five seconds after the test piece is placed on the glass plate as described above, immediately after the test piece is hung on a hanger type weighing, the weight is measured. Thereafter, the weight of the test piece is measured every 5 minutes. In addition, the measured value of weight is calculated to the third decimal place. Then, the diffusible residual water content (%) defined by the following equation is calculated by using the weight measured every 5 minutes and the original weight.
  拡散性残留水分率(%)
      ={[測定時重量-元重量]/[測定開始時重量-元重量]}×100
  5分ごとの試験片の重量測定および拡散性残留水分率の算出は、拡散性残留水分率の値が10%以下になるまで継続して行い、その値が10%以下になった時点の測定時間を求める。
Diffusive residual moisture percentage (%)
= {[Weight at measurement-original weight] / [weight at start of measurement-original weight]} x 100
The weight measurement of the test piece every 5 minutes and the calculation of the diffusible residual water content are continuously performed until the value of the diffusible residual water content becomes 10% or less, and the measurement when the value becomes 10% or less Ask for time.
  以上の操作を全ての試験片に対して行い、得られた測定時間(拡散性残留水分率が10%以下になった時点の測定時間)の平均値を算出する。
(5)凹凸高さ(mm)
 凹部から凸部までの高さは、キーエンス製マイクロスコープVHX-5000を用いて、倍率100倍(VH-ZSTレンズ)で、編地を表面から撮影し、深度測定にて最高凸部からから最低凹部までの高さを計測した。
(6)沸騰水収縮率
 測定は糸の状態で行った。JISL1013(2010年度版)の方法の熱水寸法変化率の方法と同様に、熱水を98℃の熱水を沸騰水として、寸法変化率の評価を行った。
The above operation is performed on all the test pieces, and the average value of the obtained measurement time (measurement time when the residual diffusive moisture content is 10% or less) is calculated.
(5) Unevenness height (mm)
The height from the concave part to the convex part is a magnification of 100 times (VH-ZST lens) using a microscope VHX-5000 manufactured by Keyence, and the knitted fabric is photographed from the surface, and the depth is measured from the highest convex part to the lowest. The height to the recess was measured.
(6) Boiling water shrinkage rate The measurement was performed in the state of a yarn. Similar to the method of the dimensional change rate of hot water in the method of JIS L1013 (2010 version), the dimensional change rate was evaluated using hot water of 98 ° C. as boiling water.
 [実施例1]
 28ゲージの丸編機を用い、図2Aに示すような組織の編地を作製した。糸束aから形成したa部は、糸(1)として84dtexのナイロン糸を用い、リブ状凹部に配置した。b部からd部には、糸(2)、糸(3)糸(4)は84dtexのカチオン可染ポリエステル仮撚糸で、リブ状凹凸の凸部と側面に配置した。糸(5)は78dtexのポリウレタン弾性糸で、糸(1)を含むa部と糸(2)を含むb部、糸(4)を含むd部にプレーティングで編成された変形ベア天竺組織である。各糸束のコース数は表1に示すとおりで、各糸束はすべて2コースとした。
Example 1
Using a 28-gauge circular knitting machine, a knitted fabric having a structure as shown in FIG. 2A was produced. The a portion formed from the yarn bundle a was disposed in the rib-like recess using a nylon yarn of 84 dtex as the yarn (1). In part b to part d, yarn (2) and yarn (3) yarn (4) are 84 dtex cationic dyed polyester false twist yarns, and they are arranged on the convex and concave portions of the rib-like unevenness. Yarn (5) is a 78 dtex polyurethane elastic yarn, which is a modified bare pumbilical cord organized by plating in a part including yarn (1), b part including yarn (2), and d part including yarn (4) is there. The number of courses of each yarn bundle is as shown in Table 1, and each yarn bundle was 2 courses.
 得られた編地を、青色の酸性染料で染色し、次いで、緑色のカチオン染料で染色し、浴中吸水加工を行った。a部が青色に、b部からd部が緑色に染色された。その結果、編地を見る角度により、凸部と側面の色目である青色が隠れ、編地が緑色がかって見える丸編地が得られた。また、生地のコース方向の伸長により緑色編地から青色が見える効果もあった。良好な吸水・速乾性とべとつき感を軽減したスポーツウェア、遊泳水着としても良好な編地であった。評価結果を表1に示す。なお、べとつき感については、裏面保水率で評価した。裏面保水率は評価A;20%未満と小さく、べとつき感が軽減した。 The resulting knitted fabric was dyed with a blue acid dye, then with a green cationic dye, and subjected to water absorption processing in a bath. The a part was stained blue and the b to d parts were stained green. As a result, depending on the angle at which the knitted fabric was observed, a circular knitted fabric was obtained in which the blue color, which is the color of the convex portions and the side surfaces, was hidden and the green color appeared to be greenish. In addition, there was also an effect that blue can be seen from the green knitted fabric by the extension of the course direction of the fabric. It was a good sportswear with good water absorption, quick-drying and reduced sticky feeling, and a good knitted fabric as swimming swimwear. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. The sticky feeling was evaluated by the water retention rate on the reverse side. The water retention rate on the back side was evaluated as low as less than 20%, and the sticky feeling was reduced.
 [実施例2]
 実施例1と類似の編み方にて、図3Aのように糸束aから形成したa部は、糸(1)として56dtexのナイロン糸を含み、c部において糸(3)は56dtexのカチオン可染ポリエステル糸を含んでいた。、図3Bに示すように、糸(1)を含むa部と糸(3)を含むc部は、リブ状凹凸の側面のそれぞれに配置した。糸(2)を含むb部は、84dtexのポリエチレンテレフタレートの黒原着仮撚糸を用いた糸(4)を含むd部は、167dtexのポリエチレンテレフタレートの黒原着仮撚糸を用いた。糸(5)は156dtexのポリウレタン弾性糸で、糸(1)~糸(3)にプレーティングで編成された変形ベア天竺組織である。糸(1)を含むa部と糸(3)を含むc部は、リブ状凸凹の側面に配置した。糸(2)を含むb部はリブ状凸凹の凹部に、糸(4)を含むd部はリブ状凸凹の凸部に配置した。
Example 2
In a knitting method similar to that of Example 1, the a portion formed from the yarn bundle a as shown in FIG. 3A contains 56 dtex nylon yarn as the yarn (1), and in the c portion, the yarn (3) has 56 dtex cation Contains dyed polyester yarn. As shown in FIG. 3B, the a portion including the yarn (1) and the c portion including the yarn (3) were disposed on each of the side surfaces of the rib-like unevenness. The b part containing the yarn (2) was a black base-attached false twisted yarn of 84 dtex of polyethylene terephthalate and the d part containing a yarn (4) containing a black base-attached false twisted yarn of 167 dtex of polyethylene terephthalate. Yarn (5) is a 156 dtex polyurethane elastic yarn, which is a modified bare pucker structure knitted by plating on yarn (1) to yarn (3). The a portion including the yarn (1) and the c portion including the yarn (3) were disposed on the side surfaces of the rib-like unevenness. The b portion including the yarn (2) was disposed in the rib-shaped uneven recess, and the d portion including the yarn (4) was disposed in the rib-shaped uneven protrusion.
 得られた編地を、青色の酸性染料で染色し、次いで、緑色のカチオン染料で染色し、浴中吸水加工を行った。a部が青色に、c部が緑色に染色された。b部とd部は黒色であった。その結果、角度により色目が変化する丸編地が得られた。正面から見たときは黒色に見え、斜めから視認すると青色に、反対方向の斜めから視認すると緑色に見えた。良好な吸水・速乾性とべとつき感を軽減したスポーツウェア、遊泳水着としても良好な編地であった。評価結果を表1に示す
 [実施例3、4]
 40ゲージの丸編機を用い、実施例2と同様な設計で編地を作製した。糸束aから形成されたa部は、糸(1)として56dtexのナイロン糸、c部において糸(3)は56dtexのレーヨン糸とした。図3Bに示すように、a部とc部は、リブ状凹凸の側面のそれぞれに配置した。糸(2)を含むb部は56dtexのカチオン可染ポリエステル仮撚糸を含み、リブ状凹凸の凹部に配置した。糸(4)を含むd部は84dtexのカチオン可染ポリエステル仮撚糸を含み、リブ状凸凹の凸部に配置した。糸(5)は78dtexのポリウレタン弾性糸で、糸(1)~(3)にプレーティングで編成された変形ベア天竺組織である。表1に示すとおり、実施例3と実施例4は各糸のコース数を変えた。
The resulting knitted fabric was dyed with a blue acid dye, then with a green cationic dye, and subjected to water absorption processing in a bath. The a part was stained blue and the c part was stained green. The b and d parts were black. As a result, it was possible to obtain a circular knitted fabric in which the color changes depending on the angle. It looks black when viewed from the front, looks blue when viewed obliquely, and appears green when viewed obliquely from the opposite direction. It was a good sportswear with good water absorption, quick-drying and reduced sticky feeling, and a good knitted fabric as swimming swimwear. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1 [Examples 3 and 4]
A knitted fabric was produced in the same design as in Example 2 using a 40 gauge circular knitting machine. The a portion formed from the yarn bundle a is a nylon yarn of 56 dtex as the yarn (1), and the yarn (3) is a rayon yarn of 56 dtex in the c portion. As shown to FIG. 3B, a part and c part were arrange | positioned at each of the side of rib-shaped unevenness. The b portion containing the yarn (2) contained 56 dtex of cationic dyed polyester false twisted yarn and was disposed in the concave portion of the rib-like unevenness. The d portion containing the yarn (4) contained 84 dtex of cationic dyed polyester false twisted yarn and was disposed on the rib-like uneven convex portion. Yarn (5) is a 78 dtex polyurethane elastic yarn, which is a modified bare peg structure organized by plating on yarns (1) to (3). As shown in Table 1, Example 3 and Example 4 changed the number of courses of each yarn.
 得られた編地を、実施例1と同一の方法で染色加工をおこなった。a部と青色に、b部とd部は緑色に、c部は青色に染色された。その結果、薄地でありながら、角度により色目が変化する丸編地が得られた。良好な吸水・速乾性とべとつき感を軽減したスポーツウェア、遊泳水着、クッション皮地としても良好な編地であった。評価結果を表1に示す。
[実施例5]
32ゲージの丸編機を用い、実施例2と同様な設計で編地を作製した。糸束aから形成されたa部は、糸(1)として56dtexのナイロン糸を含み、c部は糸(3)として56dtexのカチオン可染ポリエステル仮撚糸を含でいた。を図3Bに示すように、a部とc部は、リブ状凹凸の側面のそれぞれに配置した。b部は糸(2)として56dtexの黒原着ポリエチレンテレフタレート仮撚糸を含み、リブ状凹凸の凹部に配置した。d部は糸(4)として84dtexの黒原着ポリエチレンテレフタレート仮撚糸を含み、リブ状凸凹の凸部に配置した。糸(5)は56dtexのポリエステル共重合の高収縮糸で、糸(1)と糸(3)、リブ状の表凹部の糸(2)にプレーティングで編成された変形リバーシブル天竺組織である。用いたポリエステル共重合の高収縮糸の沸騰収縮率は、8%であった。
The obtained knitted fabric was subjected to dyeing in the same manner as in Example 1. The a section and the blue section, the b section and the d section were stained green, and the c section was stained blue. As a result, it was possible to obtain a circular knitted fabric whose tint changes depending on the angle while being thin. It was a good sportswear, swimming swimwear and cushion skin with good water absorption, quick drying and reduced stickiness. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.
[Example 5]
A knitted fabric was produced in the same design as in Example 2 using a 32 gauge circular knitting machine. The a part formed from the yarn bundle a contains 56 dtex nylon yarn as the yarn (1), and c part contains the 56 dtex cationic dyed polyester false yarn as the yarn (3). As shown in FIG. 3B, the a portion and the c portion were disposed on each of the side surfaces of the rib-like unevenness. The b portion contains 56 dtex of black base-bonded polyethylene terephthalate false twist yarn as the yarn (2), and is disposed in the concave portion of the rib-like unevenness. The d portion contains 84 dtex of black base-bonded polyethylene terephthalate false twist yarn as the yarn (4), and is disposed at the rib-like uneven convex portion. Yarn (5) is a 56 dtex polyester copolymer highly shrinkable yarn, and is a deformed reversible ply structure organized by plating on the yarn (1) and the yarn (3), and the rib-like surface-recessed yarn (2). The boiling shrinkage of the high shrinkage yarn of polyester copolymer used was 8%.
 得られた編地を、実施例1と同一の方法で染色加工をおこなった。その結果、薄地でありながら、伸長性は不足したが角度により色目が変化する丸編地が得られた。カーテンやカバー類としても良好な編地であった。評価結果を表1に示す。
[比較例1]
32ゲージの丸編機を用い、通常のベア天竺編地を作製した。糸束aには糸(1)として84dtexのカチオン可染ポリエステル仮撚糸、糸(5)として78dtexのポリウレタン弾性糸を用いた。編地の全コースをa部とした。
The obtained knitted fabric was subjected to dyeing in the same manner as in Example 1. As a result, a circular knitted fabric was obtained, which was thin, but lacked extensibility but changed its color depending on the angle. It was a good knitted fabric as curtains and covers. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.
Comparative Example 1
Using a 32 gauge circular knitting machine, a normal bare twill knitted fabric was produced. For the yarn bundle a, a 84 dtex cationic dyed polyester false twisted yarn as the yarn (1) and a polyurethane elastic yarn of 78 dtex as the yarn (5) were used. The entire course of the knitted fabric is a part.
 得られた編地を、緑色のカチオン染料で染色し、浴中吸水加工を行った。編地全体が緑色に染色された。その結果、角度により色目が変化はなく、プレーンな通常のベア天竺丸編地が得られた。評価結果を表1に示す。 The resulting knitted fabric was dyed with a green cationic dye and subjected to water absorption processing in a bath. The entire fabric was stained green. As a result, the color did not change depending on the angle, and a plain ordinary bare-tendon-maru knitted fabric was obtained. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000001
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000001
a,a2,a3,b,b2,b3,c,c2,c3,d,d2,d3 : 糸束
H :凸-凹間の高さ
10:編地
11:ニードル面(おもて面)
a, a2, a3, b, b2, b3, c, c2, c3, d, d2, d3: yarn bundle H: height between convex and concave 10: knitted fabric 11: needle surface (front surface)

Claims (10)

  1. ヨコ編により編成された複数種の糸束がウェール方向に編み込まれた編地であって、
    複数種の糸束のうち少なくとも1つの糸束は、他の糸束と異なる色相を有し、
    少なくとも2つの糸束がコース方向に交互に編成され、連続的に凹凸を形成する、編地。
    It is a knitted fabric in which a plurality of yarn bundles knitted by horizontal knitting are woven in the wales,
    At least one yarn bundle among the plurality of yarn bundles has a hue different from that of the other yarn bundles,
    A knitted fabric in which at least two yarn bundles are knitted alternately in the course direction and continuously form asperities.
  2. 前記複数種の糸束のうち、他の糸束と異なる色相を有する糸束は、コース方向の凸部および/または凹部に形成される、請求項1記載の編地。 The knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein among the plurality of types of yarn bundles, yarn bundles having a hue different from that of other yarn bundles are formed in convex portions and / or concave portions in a course direction.
  3. 複数種の糸束のうち少なくとも1つの糸束が複数の糸からなる、請求項1または2に記載の編地。 The knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein at least one yarn bundle among a plurality of yarn bundles comprises a plurality of yarns.
  4. 前記複数種の糸束はそれぞれ色相の異なる2色以上の色相の糸からなる、請求項1~3のいずれかに記載の編地。 The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the plurality of yarn bundles are yarns of two or more hues different in hue.
  5. ウェール方向に沿って表側に突出したリブ状の表凸部と、同じくウェール方向に沿って裏側に湾曲して突出したリブ状の裏凸部(表凹部)とをコース方向に交互に連続させた形状を備え、前記コース方向に沿った切断面の形状が波状に形成される請求項1から4いずれかに記載の編地。 A rib-like surface convex portion projecting to the front side along the wale direction and a rib-like back convex portion (surface concavity) curving and projecting to the back side along the wale direction are alternately continued in the course direction The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the knitted fabric has a shape, and the shape of the cut surface along the course direction is formed in a wave shape.
  6. コース方向に交互に編み込まれている少なくとも2種の糸束が、染色性の異なる2種以上の糸束である、請求項1~5いずれかに記載の編地。 The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein at least two types of yarn bundles alternately woven in the course direction are two or more types of yarn bundles having different dyeability.
  7. 編地を異なった染色法で染色することにより、編地内で2種以上の色相の異なる部位を有する請求項1~6のいずれかに記載の編地。 The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which has two or more different portions of hue in the fabric by dyeing the fabric by different dyeing methods.
  8. 前記複数種の糸束のうち2種以上の糸束において、ポリウレタン弾性糸、または、ポリウレタン弾性糸を用いたカバーリング糸、または、熱収縮率10%以上の糸を含む、請求項1~7のいずれかに記載の編地。 The polyurethane elastic yarn, or a covering yarn using a polyurethane elastic yarn, or a yarn having a thermal contraction rate of 10% or more is included in two or more yarn bundles among the plural kinds of yarn bundles. The knitted fabric described in any of the above.
  9. 請求項1~8のいずれかに記載の編地ウェール方向を縫製品の縦方向として使用することを特徴とする縫製品。 A sewn product characterized by using the knitted fabric weir direction according to any one of claims 1 to 8 as a longitudinal direction of a sewn product.
  10. 請求項1~9のいずれかに記載の編地が、2種以上の色相を現出することを特徴とする編地。 A knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that two or more hues appear.
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113174686A (en) * 2021-03-29 2021-07-27 晋江百润织造有限公司 Three-dimensional multi-dimensional visual weft-knitted fabric and vamp

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JPS54129651U (en) * 1978-02-10 1979-09-08
JPS55176388U (en) * 1979-06-01 1980-12-17
JPS5942096B2 (en) * 1983-07-25 1984-10-12 房子 村上 Knitted fabric and its knitting method
JP3226622B2 (en) * 1992-09-16 2001-11-05 帝人株式会社 Stretchy woven and knitted fabric having an iridescent effect and method for producing the same
CN101748553A (en) * 2008-12-02 2010-06-23 上海针织九厂 Knitting method for anti-electromagnetic radiation knitted fabric and textile fabric
JP2012097390A (en) * 2010-11-05 2012-05-24 Shindo:Kk Iridescent tone knitted body
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JPS5218185Y2 (en) * 1972-04-25 1977-04-25
JPS54129651U (en) * 1978-02-10 1979-09-08
JPS55176388U (en) * 1979-06-01 1980-12-17
JPS5942096B2 (en) * 1983-07-25 1984-10-12 房子 村上 Knitted fabric and its knitting method
JP3226622B2 (en) * 1992-09-16 2001-11-05 帝人株式会社 Stretchy woven and knitted fabric having an iridescent effect and method for producing the same
CN101748553A (en) * 2008-12-02 2010-06-23 上海针织九厂 Knitting method for anti-electromagnetic radiation knitted fabric and textile fabric
JP2012097390A (en) * 2010-11-05 2012-05-24 Shindo:Kk Iridescent tone knitted body
JP2016216847A (en) * 2015-05-19 2016-12-22 株式会社ユニワールド Globe

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113174686A (en) * 2021-03-29 2021-07-27 晋江百润织造有限公司 Three-dimensional multi-dimensional visual weft-knitted fabric and vamp

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