FR3146806A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS containing large amounts of lactone polyols - Google Patents

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING HIGH AMOUNTS OF LACTONE POLYOLS The present disclosure relates to a cosmetic composition containing high amounts of lactone polyols and methods of treating skin with the compositions. The cosmetic compositions include: (a) a C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate; (b) at least 5% by weight of one or more lactone polyols; (c) one or more nonionic emulsifiers; (d) one or more fatty compounds; and (e) water. Further, the amount of the one or more lactone polyols in the composition is generally at least 10 times greater than the amount of the C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate in the composition. Figure for abstract: none

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS containing large amounts of lactone polyols DISCLOSURE AREA

The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions that include high amounts of lactone polyols; and methods of treating skin with the cosmetic composition.

CONTEXT

Common issues associated with the formulation of multi-component cosmetic compositions are component compatibility, stability, and aesthetic appeal. Many ingredients that are beneficial to the skin have unique physical and chemical characteristics that limit the amount that can be incorporated into cosmetic compositions. High amounts compromise the integrity of the compositions and alter the characteristics of the products. In addition, stability issues can result in partial or complete loss of product integrity, color changes, malodors, viscosity changes, etc. Even though large amounts of certain ingredients can be incorporated into a cosmetic product, the resulting product may no longer have an appropriate texture, aesthetic appearance and feel, or functionality.

Many active ingredients are unstable and sensitive to temperature, pH, light, and oxidation. Therefore, encapsulation processes have been used to protect them from unwanted degradation and to control the release of the active ingredient. Antioxidants, for example, are substances that protect ingredients such as fragrances, natural fats, and oils from unstable molecules known as free radicals. Antioxidants interact with free radicals, stabilizing them, and preventing free radical damage. As a general rule, antioxidants should be soluble in the ingredients that are being protective. Common oil-soluble antioxidants include butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), and tocopherols (vitamin E). Propylene gallate is an example of a water-soluble antioxidant.

Many ingredients in cosmetics, especially anti-aging and skin care products, are unstable and break down rapidly when exposed to atmospheric oxygen, light or heat. To counteract this breakdown, active ingredients have been incorporated into complexes for protection, for example, complexed with cyclodextrin. For example, retinol is a useful anti-wrinkle ingredient that is sensitive to oxygen and light. Complexing retinol with cyclodextrin has been shown to provide a stabilizing effect on retinol.

High pressure homogenizers can be used in the processing of compositions, including cosmetic compositions, to form products such as emulsions, creams, sunscreens, makeups and perfumes. Homogenization is widely used in the cosmetic industry to produce homogeneous and stable emulsions. Through high pressure homogenization, particle sizes can be reduced to avoid phase separation, distribute the different ingredients homogeneously and change viscosity.

Many cosmetic compositions for skin treatment aim to provide active ingredients for absorption into the skin. The skin acts as a natural barrier between the internal and external environments and therefore plays an important role in vital biological functions such as protection against mechanical and chemical injuries, microorganisms and ultraviolet damage. However, the health and appearance of the skin can deteriorate due to environmental factors, genetic makeup, nutrition and sun exposure.

Environmental pollution conditions are rapidly worsening and becoming more and more visible in the daily lives of consumers around the world. The damage caused by pollution to human skin is also becoming more and more evident. Human skin is also subjected to various aggressions due to extrinsic factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, environmental pollution, wind, heat, infrared radiation, low humidity, aggressive surfactants, abrasives, etc. Recent studies suggest that in addition to UV radiation, other environmental factors contribute to the development of senile lentos, especially air pollution. Ultimately, these factors result in visible signs of skin damage, including small brown spots on the skin, especially in the elderly.

Typical skin damage includes fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, sweat, sagging, dark circles, puffy eyes, enlarged pores, visible dead skin i.e. exfoliation, flaking, dryness and roughness. Consumers want to slow the development of skin damage and reduce the effects of aging, especially on the face and around the eyes. Bright, clear skin looks younger and is a sign of good health and vitality. Therefore, there is a continuing need for new and improved formulations that improve the health and visual appearance of the skin.

There is a need for compositions that deliver high amounts of active ingredients to the skin that are aesthetically pleasing, have pleasant tactile properties, and are easy to use. The inventors of the present disclosure have discovered unique cosmetic compositions and a method of using the compositions that address these and other needs.

SUMMARY

The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions that contain and deliver high amounts of lactone polyols to the skin. The compositions are stable, have pleasant tactile properties, are aesthetically pleasing, and are easy to use. Lactone polyols, e.g., gluconolactone and/or 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, tend to make the compositions adherent (sticky), particularly when used in high amounts. The inventors have discovered that a poly(C10-30) alkyl acrylate surprisingly eliminates or significantly reduces the stickiness caused by lactone polyols, e.g., gluconolactone and/or 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, even when lactone polyols are used in high amounts.

1. un polyacrylate d’alkyle en C10-30 ;
2. au moins 5 % en poids de polyols de lactone, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique ;

The cosmetic compositions provide exceptional cosmetic properties to the skin, in part due to the high amount of lactone polyols. The high amounts of lactone polyols in the compositions dissolve dead skin cells, improve the appearance of fine lines and discoloration, and help remove and minimize excess skin. The cosmetic composition also improves skin texture and tone, moisturizes the skin, and provides antioxidant benefits. The cosmetic composition includes:

1. a C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate;
2. at least 5% by weight of lactone polyols, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition;

1. un ou plusieurs émulsifiants non ioniques ;
2. un ou plusieurs composés gras ; et
3. de l’eau.

wherein the lactone polyols of (b) are in an amount at least 10 times greater than an amount of the C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate of (a);

1. one or more non-ionic emulsifiers;
2. one or more fatty compounds; and
3. water.

In some cases, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion.

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers include sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, glyceryl esters of fatty acids, alkanolamides, ethoxylate amides, alkyl alcohols, alkylpolypolyglucosides, sorbitan esters, polyol esters and ethoxylates, ethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol ethoxylates, and a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include oils, mineral oil, alkanes (paraffins), fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, fatty alcohol esters, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, waxes, fatty esters, carbonate fatty esters, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

The viscosity of the composition may optionally be corrected and enhanced by including one or more thickening agents. Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include taurate polymers and copolymers, carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, gums, modified gums, and a combination thereof. In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more thickening agents is a taurate polymer or copolymer and/or a crosslinked polyacrylate polymer.

In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions include one or more alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, or a combination. In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition includes at least one alpha hydroxy and at least one beta hydroxy acid. The cosmetic compositions may include a plurality of alpha hydroxy acids and/or beta hydroxy acids. For example, the compositions may include one or more lactone polyols, one or more alpha hydroxy acids (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid, etc.), and one or more beta hydroxy acids (e.g., salicyclic acid).

Non-limiting examples of alpha hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, phytic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, a salt thereof, and a combination thereof. Non-limiting examples of beta hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, tropic acid, trethocanic acid, and a combination thereof.

Non-limiting examples of useful fatty compounds include oils, waxes, alkanes (paraffins), fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty esters, fatty carbonate esters, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, hydrocarbons, their derivatives and mixtures thereof.

In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more fatty compounds is a fatty alcohol. The fatty alcohols may be straight or branched chain alcohols and may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis-4-t-butylohexanol, myricyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the fatty alcohols may be selected from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the fatty alcohols are selected from solid fatty alcohols, for example, solid fatty alcohols selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, preferably cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and a combination thereof.

In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more fatty compounds is a fatty ester or a fatty carbonate ester.

In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more fatty compounds is a volatile hydrocarbon. Non-limiting examples of volatile hydrocarbons include isoparaffin, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane, undecane, tridecane, dodecane, isohexyl, isodecyl, neopentanoate, a C15-19 alkane, and a combination thereof.

In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions include one or more water-soluble solvents, e.g., glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C _1-30 , C _1-15 , C _1-10 , or C _1-4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols (e.g., butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), and a mixture thereof.

Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to methods of treating skin. The methods include applying the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure to skin, particularly facial skin. For example, the methods dissolve dead skin cells, improve the appearance of fine lines and discoloration, remove excess oil from the skin, improve skin texture and tone, hydrate the skin, and provide antioxidant benefits to the skin.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

With aging, the outer layer of the skin (epidermis) becomes thinner, although the number of cell layers remains unchanged. However, the number of pigment-containing cells (melanocytes) decreases. As a result, the skin appears pale and translucent. Large pigmented spots (age spots, senile lentigines or lentigines) may appear in areas exposed to the sun. Changes in the connective tissue reduce the strength and elasticity of the skin. This is called elastosis. It is most noticeable in areas exposed to the sun (solar elastosis). Elastosis produces the weather-beaten, leathery appearance common among farmers, sailors and others who spend a lot of time outdoors. Dehydration increases the risk of skin damage. Poor nutrition can also have a negative influence on the skin, causing dryness, rashes and puffiness.

Human skin acts as a primary barrier between the body and its environment. The lipid matrix in the outermost layer of the skin (epidermis), the stratum corneum (SC), is crucial for this skin barrier function. Two of its functions are (1) to prevent excessive water loss through the epidermis and (2) to prevent environmental compounds from penetrating the viable epidermal and dermal layers and thereby eliciting an immune response. The composition of the SC lipid matrix is dominated by three lipid classes: cholesterol, free fatty acids, and ceramides. These lipids adopt a highly ordered three-dimensional structure of densely packed lipid layers (lipid lamellae): the lateral and lamellar lipid organization. How these lipids are ordered depends on their composition. One of the most common skin diseases in which the SC lipid barrier is affected is atopic dermatitis (AD).

1. un polyacrylate d’alkyle en C10-30 ;

1. au moins 5 % en poids de polyols de lactone ;

The cosmetic compositions of the present case are particularly useful for treating the skin, especially the skin of the face. The cosmetic composition may be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or dispersion. The cosmetic compositions generally comprise:

1. a C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate;

1. at least 5% by weight of lactone polyols;

1. un ou plusieurs émulsifiants non ioniques ;
2. un ou plusieurs composés gras ;
3. de l’eau ;
4. facultativement, un ou plusieurs agents épaississants ;
5. facultativement, un ou plusieurs alpha hydroxyacides, bêta hydroxyacides, sels de ceux-ci ou une combinaison de ceux-ci
6. facultativement un ou plusieurs solvants organiques solubles dans l'eau
7. facultativement, un ou plusieurs ingrédients divers ;

wherein the lactone polyols of (b) are in an amount at least 10 times greater than an amount of the C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate of (a);

1. one or more non-ionic emulsifiers;
2. one or more fatty compounds;
3. water ;
4. optionally, one or more thickening agents;
5. optionally, one or more alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, salts thereof or a combination thereof
6. optionally one or more water-soluble organic solvents
7. optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients;

in which all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition.

Poly(C10-30)alkylacrylate is a polymer of the ester of acrylic acid and C10-30 alcohol. The inventors have discovered that the inclusion of poly(C10-30)alkylacrylates in cosmetic compositions is particularly effective in reducing the tackiness of the compositions caused, at least in part, by the inclusion of lactone polyols. The use of poly(C10-30)alkylacrylates allows for higher amounts of lactone polyols to be used in the compositions while still maintaining acceptable tackiness (stickiness). The total amount of poly(C10-30)alkylacrylates in the compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of poly(C10-30)alkylacrylates in the cosmetic compositions is from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more of the poly(C10-30) alkyl acrylates in the cosmetic compositions is from about 0.1 to about 3 wt. %, from about 0.1 to about 2 wt. %, from about 0.1 to about 1 wt. %, from about 0.2 to about 5 wt. %, from about 0.2 to about 3 wt. %, from about 0.2 to about 2 wt. %, from about 0.2 to about 1 wt. %, from about 0.3 to about 5 wt. %, from about 0.3 to about 3 wt. %, from about 0.3 to about 2 wt. %, from about 0.3 to about 1 wt. %, from about 0.5 to about 5 wt. %, from about 0.5 to about 3 wt. %, from about 0.5 to about 2 wt. %, from about 0.5 to about 1 wt. %, and including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Gluconolactone and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid are useful for improving the health and appearance of the skin. For example, they remove dead skin cells, increase skin thickness, reduce wrinkles, help moisturize the skin, etc. The compositions of the present disclosure are unique in that they include large amounts of lactone polyols, for example, at least 1 or 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more lactone polyols in the cosmetic compositions is at least 1 to about 20 wt. %, at least 1 to about 15 wt. %, at least 1 to about 10 wt. %, at least 1 to about 8 wt. %, at least 2 to about 20 wt. %, at least 2 to about 15 wt. %, at least 2 to about 10 wt. %, at least 2 to about 8 wt. %, at least 3 to about 20 wt. %, at least 3 to about 15 wt. %, at least 3 to about 10 wt. %, at least 3 to about 8 wt. %, at least 5 to about 20 wt. %, at least 5 to about 15 wt. %, at least 5 to about 12 wt. by weight, from at least 5 to about 10% by weight, from at least 5 to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The total amount of lactone polyol in the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure exceeds the total amount of C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate. The total amount of lactone polyol exceeds the total amount of C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate. For example, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more lactone polyols is at least 10 times greater than the total amount of C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate. For example, the total amount of the one or more lactone polyols may be at least 10 times greater to about 25 times greater, at least 10 times greater to about 20 times greater, at least 10 times greater to about 18 times greater, at least 10 times greater to about 15 times greater, or 10 times to about 12 times greater than the total amount of C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate. In other words, the weight ratio of gluconolactone to polyC10-30 alkyl acrylate is at least 10:1 to about 25:1, at least 10:1 to about 25:1, at least 10:1 to about 20:1, at least 10:1 to about 18:1, about 10:1 to about 15:1, or about 10:1 to about 12:1 (lactone polyols: polyC10-30 alkyl acrylate).

Non-limiting examples of non-ionic emulsifiers include sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, glyceryl esters of fatty acids, alkanolamides, ethoxylate amides, alkyl alcohols, alkylpolypolyglucosides, sorbitan esters, polyol esters and ethoxylates, ethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol ethoxylates, and mixtures thereof. A more comprehensive but non-limiting list of non-ionic emulsifiers is provided below under the heading "Non-ionic Emulsifiers".

The total amount of nonionic emulsifiers in the cosmetic compositions will vary. In various embodiments, the total amount of nonionic emulsifiers is from about 0.05 to about 6% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the total weight of nonionic emulsifiers can range from about 0.05 to about 6% by weight, 0.05 to about 5% by weight, 0.05 to about 4% by weight, 0.05 to about 3% by weight; from 0.1 to about 6% by weight, 0.1 to about 5% by weight, 0.1 to about 4% by weight, 0.1 to about 3% by weight; from 0.5 to about 6% by weight, 0.5 to about 5% by weight, 0.5 to about 4% by weight, 0.5 to about 3% by weight; from 0.8 to about 6% by weight, 0.8 to about 5% by weight, 0.8 to about 4% by weight, 0.8 to about 3% by weight; from 1 to about 6% by weight, 1 to about 5% by weight, 1 to about 4% by weight, or 1 to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include oils, mineral oil, alkanes (paraffins), fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, fatty alcohol esters including fatty carbonate esters, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more fatty compounds is a fatty alcohol. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include fatty alcohols selected from C14-22 alcohols, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof. In some instances, the cosmetic compositions preferably include cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof. A more comprehensive but non-limiting list of fatty compounds is provided below, under the heading "Fatty Compounds."

The total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols is from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In additional embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols is from about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more fatty compounds is a fatty alcohol ester, such as a fatty carbonate ester. Non-limiting examples of fatty carbonate esters include dialkyl carbonates of the formula: R ₁ O(C=O)R ₂ , wherein R ₁ and R ₂ are independently straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chains having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or having 2 to 28 carbon atoms, or having 4 to 25 carbon atoms, or having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably one or more fatty carbonates selected from C14-15 dialkyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dihexyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dimethoxyphenyl phenyloxoethyl carbonate, dimethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, dioctyl carbonate and a mixture thereof. In additional instances, the fatty compound is a fatty ester selected from cetyl ester, purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isonyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, hydroxylated esters, pentaerythritol esters, diisostearyl malate, dioctanoate of neopentyl glycol, dibutyl sebacate, diC12-13 alkyl malate, dicetyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, and a mixture thereof.

The total amount of fatty alcohol ester(s), such as fatty carbonate esters, if present, will vary. However, without various embodiments, the total amount of the fatty alcohol ester(s) is from about 0.1 to about 15 wt. %, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, from about 0.1 to about 8 wt. %, from about 0.5 to about 15 wt. %, from about 0.5 to about 12 wt. %, from about 0.5 to about 10 wt. %, from about 0.5 to about 8 wt. %, from about 1 to about 15 wt. %, from about 1 to about 12 wt. %, from about 1 to about 10 wt. %, from about 1 to about 8 wt. %, from about 2 to about 15 wt. %, from about 2 to about 12 wt. %, from about 2 to about 10 wt. %, from about 2 to about 8 wt. %, by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more fatty compounds is a volatile hydrocarbon. Non-limiting examples of volatile hydrocarbons include volatile hydrocarbon oils such as, for example, volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 20 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and in particular, _C8 - _C20 branched alkanes such as _C8 - _C20 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, _C8 - _C20 branched esters such as isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate, alcohols, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition includes isohexadecane, a C15-19 alkane, or a combination thereof.

The total amount of one or more volatile hydrocarbons, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more volatile hydrocarbons is from about 0.1 to about 15 wt. %, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, from about 0.1 to about 8 wt. %, from about 0.5 to about 15 wt. %, from about 0.5 to about 12 wt. %, from about 0.5 to about 10 wt. %, from about 0.5 to about 8 wt. %, from about 1 to about 15 wt. %, from about 1 to about 12 wt. %, from about 1 to about 10 wt. %, from about 1 to about 8 wt. %, from about 2 to about 15 wt. %, from about 2 to about 12 wt. %, from about 2 to about 10 wt. %, from about 2 to about 8 wt. %, relative to to the total weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, the one or more fatty compounds are selected from fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol esters including fatty carbonate esters, volatile hydrocarbons, and a combination thereof.

Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include taurate polymers and copolymers, carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, gums, modified gums, and a combination thereof. In various embodiments, at least one of the one or more thickening agents is a taurate polymer or copolymer and/or a crosslinked polyacrylate polymer. In preferred embodiments, the cosmetic compositions include one or more thickening agents selected from taurate polymers and copolymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, and a combination thereof. In additional preferred embodiments, at least one of the one or more thickening agents is a taurate polymer or copolymer.

Non-limiting examples of taurate polymers and copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, or a mixture thereof, preferably hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, acryloyldimethyl acrylate/VP copolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, or a mixture thereof.

The total amount of the thickening agent(s), if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more thickening agents is from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In additional embodiments, the total amount of the one or more thickening agents is from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, based on a total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The amount of water in the cosmetic compositions may vary and will vary depending on the amount of other components in the cosmetic compositions. In one embodiment, the total amount of water in the compositions may range from about 50 to about 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the amount of water in the cosmetic composition may range from about 50 to about 80% by weight, about 50 to about 75% by weight, about 50 to about 70% by weight, about 55 to about 80% by weight, about 55 to about 75% by weight, about 55 to about 70% by weight, about 60 to about 85% by weight, about 60 to about 80% by weight, about 60 to about 75% by weight, about 60 to about 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids are known in the art. In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may include a plurality of one or more alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, optionally polyhydroxy acids, or a mixture thereof. In various embodiments, the compositions include one or more lactone polyols, one or more alpha hydroxy acids (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid, etc.), and one or more beta hydroxy acids (e.g., salicyclic acid). In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include one or more hydroxy acids but no beta hydroxy acids or one or more beta hydroxy acids but no alpha hydroxy acids, in addition to the one or more lactone polyols.

Non-limiting examples of alpha hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, phytic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, a salt thereof, and a combination thereof. Non-limiting examples of beta hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, tropic acid, trethocanic acid, and a combination thereof.

The total amount of one or more alpha hydroxy acids, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions include from about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, from about 0.1 to about 8 wt. %, from about 0.1 to about 6 wt. %, from about 0.5 to about 10 wt. %, from about 0.5 to about 8 wt. %, from about 0.5 to about 6 wt. %, from about 1 to about 10 wt. %, from about 1 to about 8 wt. %, from about 1 to about 6 wt. %, from about 2 to about 10 wt. %, from about 2 to about 8 wt. %, from about 2 to about 6 wt. %, from about 3 to about 10 wt. %, or from about 3 to about 8 wt. %, from about 3 to about 6 wt. %, from about 4 to about 10 wt. %, from about 4 to about 8 wt. %, from about 4 to about 8 wt. %, from about 4 to about 10 ... weight, about 4 to about 6% by weight, about 5 to about 10% by weight, about 5 to about 8% by weight, or about 5 to about 6% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

The total amount of the one or more beta hydroxy acids, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more beta hydroxy acids is from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the one or more beta hydroxy acids is from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.01 to about 2% by weight, about 0.01 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition may include one or more miscellaneous ingredients. The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may optionally include one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the cosmetic compositions and that do not materially interfere with or affect the fundamental and novel properties of the cosmetic compositions. Miscellaneous ingredients commonly used in cosmetics are known in the art. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlizing agents, fillers, colorants, matting agents, other skin actives, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, etc. A more comprehensive but non-limiting list of miscellaneous ingredients is provided below under the heading "Miscellaneous Ingredients."

Miscellaneous ingredients may be included in the cosmetic composition, for example, in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, or about 1 to about 5% by weight or about 1 to about 3% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions include one or more water-soluble solvents, e.g., glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C _1-30 , C _1-15 , C _1-10 , or C _1-4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols (e.g., butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), and a mixture thereof. In some instances, the one or more water-soluble organic solvents are selected from glycerin, C ₂ -C ₅ monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof. A more comprehensive but non-limiting list of water-soluble organic solvents is provided below, under the heading “Water-Soluble Organic Solvents.”

The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents is from about 0.01 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the total amount of the water-soluble solvent(s) is from about 0.01 to about 15 wt. %, from about 0.01 to about 10 wt. %, from about 0.01 to about 5 wt. %, from about 0.1 to about 15 wt. %, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, from about 0.1 to about 5 wt. %, from about 0.1 to about 3 wt. %, from about 1 to about 15 wt. %, from about 1 to about 10 wt. %, from about 1 to about 5 wt. %, from about 3 to about 15 wt. %, from about 5 to about 10 wt. %, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-ionic emulsifiers

Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants may, in some cases, be suitably incorporated into the cosmetic composition and include and/or may be selected from alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and comprising at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, knowing that the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups may range from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups may range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Non-limiting examples may also be mentioned, copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of plant origin; sucrose fatty acid esters; polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters; N-alkylglucamine (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) derivatives, amine oxides such as alkylamine (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ ) oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ ) oxides and mixtures thereof.

As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, mention may be made in particular of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (INCI name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof. As glyceryl esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ alkoxylated fatty acids, mention may be made, for example, of polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate.

Additionally or alternatively, the nonionic emulsifiers may comprise or be selected from alkanolamides, polyglucosides, sorbitan derivatives (excluding the hydration of sorbitan to derive sorbitol), and polyol esters.

Alkanolamide(s)

Non-limiting examples of alkanolamides include fatty acid alkanolamides. The fatty acid alkanolamides may be fatty acid monoalkanolamides or fatty acid dialkanolamides or fatty acid isoalkanolamides, and may have a C _2-8 hydroxyalkyl group (the C _2-8 chain may be substituted with one or more -OH groups. Non-limiting examples include fatty acid diethanolamides (DEA) or fatty acid monoethanolamides (MEA), fatty acid monoisopropanolamides (MIPA), fatty acid diisopropanolamides (DIPA), and fatty acid glucamides (acyl glucamides).

Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides include those formed by the reaction of an alkanolamine and a C ₆ -C ₃₆ fatty acid. Examples include, but are not limited to: oleic acid diethanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide (Stearamide MEA), behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide (Isostearamide MIPA), erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoisopropanolamide (Cocoamide MIPA), coconut acid monoethanolamide (Cocamide MEA), palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, polyoxyethylene coconut fatty acid mono ... coconut, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric acid monoisopropanolamide, (lauramide MIPA), myristic acid monoisopropanolamide (myristamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid diisopropanolamide (cocamide DIPA) and mixtures thereof.

In some cases, the fatty acid alkanolamides include cocamide MIPA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide DIPA and mixtures thereof. In particular, the fatty acid alkanolamide may be cocamide MIPA, which is commercially available under the trade name EMPILAN from Innospec Active Chemicals.

Fatty acid alkanolamides include those having the following structure:

where R ₄ is an alkyl chain of 4 to 20 carbon atoms (R ₄ may be, for example, selected from lauric acid, coconut acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, babassu fatty acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, corn fatty acid, soybean fatty acid, shea butter fatty acids, caprylic acid, capric acid and mixtures thereof); where R ₅ is selected from -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ (CHOH) ₄ CH ₂ OH, -benzyl and mixtures thereof; and where R ₆ is selected from -H, -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, --CH ₂ (CHOH) ₄ CH ₂ OH, -benzyl and mixtures thereof.

In some cases, the one or more fatty acid alkanolamides include one or more acyl glucamides, for example, acyl glucamides having a carbon chain length of 8 to 20. Non-limiting examples include lauroyl/myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl/capryl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, capryl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl/caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, lauryl methyl glucamide, oleoyl methyl glucamide oleate, stearoyl methyl glucamide stearate, sunfloweroyl methyl glucamide and tocopheryl succinate methyl glucamide.

Alkyl polyglucoside(s)

In some embodiments, the one or more alkyl polyglucosides include those selected from lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and a mixture thereof. In some instances, the alkyl polyglucosides include or are selected from lauryl glucoside. Additionally or alternatively, the alkyl polyglucosides may be selected from glycerol (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkylpolyglycosides, including, for example, mono or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of glycerol (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkylpolyglycosides. Additional alkyl polyglucosides that may be suitably incorporated, in some instances, into the cosmetic composition include alkyl polyglucosides having a structure according to the following formula:

R ¹ -O-(R ² O) _n -Z(x)

Where R ¹ is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

R ² is an ethylene or propylene group;

Z is a saccharide group of 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

n is an integer from 0 to 10; and

x is an integer from 1 to 5.

Useful alkyl polyglucosides may, in some instances, include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate. Typically, the at least one alkyl polyglucoside compound is selected from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, and coco glucoside. In some instances, decyl glucoside is particularly preferred.

Sorbitan derivative(s)

Suitable sorbitan derivatives that may be incorporated into the plurality of nonionic emulsifiers include those selected from polysorbate-20 (POE(20) sorbitan monolaurate), polysorbate-21 (POE(4) sorbitan monolaurate), polysorbate-40 (POE(20) sorbitan monopalmitate), polysorbate-60 (POE(20) sorbitan monostearate), polysorbate-61 (POE(4) sorbitan monostearate), polysorbate-65 (POE(20) sorbitan tristearate), polysorbate-80 (POE(20) sorbitan monooleate), polysorbate-81 (POE(4) sorbitan monooleate), sorbitan polysorbate 85 (POE(20) sorbitan trioleate), isostearate sorbitan, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate and sorbitan tristearate and a mixture thereof.

Additional and/or alternative sorbitan derivatives include sorbitan esters including, for example, C ₁₆ - C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of sorbitan which have been formed by esterification, with sorbitol, of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain having respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. These esters may be selected in particular from sorbitan stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates or oleates, and mixtures thereof. Examples of optional sorbitan esters include sorbitan monostearate (INCI name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by Croda as Span 60, sorbitan tristearate sold by Croda as Span 65 V, sorbitan monopalmitate (INCI name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by Croda as Span 40, sorbitan monooleate sold by Croda as Span 80 V or sorbitan trioleate sold by Uniqema as Span 85 V. A preferable sorbitan ester is sorbitan tristearate.

Polyol ester(s)

Non-limiting examples of polyol esters include those selected from alkoxylated polyol esters. For example, the alkoxylated polyol esters may be selected from pegylated derivatives of propylene glycol oleate, propylene glycol caprylate/caprate, propylene glycol cocoate, propylene glycol stearate, and a mixture thereof. In some embodiments, the alkoxylated polyol esters are selected from PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-6 propylene glycol caprylate/caprate, PEG-8 propylene glycol cocoate, PEG-25 propylene glycol stearate, and PEG-120 propylene glycol stearate, and a mixture thereof. In some instances, the polyol ester is or includes PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate. Additionally and/or alternatively, the polyol esters may be chosen from ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.

In some cases, the polyol ester may be chosen from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; sorbitol esters of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, one or more fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (under the INCI names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (under the INCI names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (under the INCI names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (under the INCI names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (INCI name: PEG-100 stearate) and mixtures thereof.

Sources of unsaturated polyol esters of glycerol include synthesized oils, natural oils (e.g., vegetable oils, algal oils, bacteria-derived oils, and animal fats), combinations thereof, and the like. Non-limiting examples of vegetable oils include Abyssinian oil, almond oil, apricot oil, black currant oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, baobab oil, black cumin oil, black currant oil, borage oil, camelina oil, carinata oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, cherry kernel oil, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, echium oil, evening primrose oil, linseed oil, grapeseed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hazelnut oil, hempseed oil, jojoba oil, Kukui nut oil, Linseed oil, Macadamia nut oil, Meadowfoam seed oil, Moringa oil, Neem oil, Olive oil, Palm oil, Palm kernel oil, Peach kernel oil, Peanut oil, Pecan oil, Stinkweed oil, Perilla seed oil, Pistachio oil, Pomegranate seed oil, Pongamia oil, Pumpkin seed oil, Raspberry oil, Red palm olein, Rice bran oil, Rosehip oil, Safflower oil, Sea buckthorn fruit oil, Sesame seed oil, Shea olein, Sunflower oil, Soybean oil, Tonka bean oil, Tung oil, Walnut oil, wheat germ oil, high oleoyl soybean oil, high oleoyl sunflower oil, high oleoyl safflower oil, high erucic acid rapeseed oil, combinations thereof, and the like. Non-limiting examples of animal fats include lard, tallow, chicken fat, yellow fat, fish oil, emu oil, combinations thereof, and the like. A non-limiting example of a synthesized oil includes tall oil, which is a by-product of wood pulp manufacturing. In some embodiments, the natural oil is refined, bleached, and/or deodorized.

The polyol esters may optionally be natural polyol esters selected from vegetable oil, animal fat, algal oil, and mixtures thereof; and said synthetic polyol ester is derived from a material selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, poly(tetramethylene ether) glycol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, tripentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, neopentyl glycol, a sugar, in one aspect, sucrose, and mixtures thereof.

Other non-limiting examples of non-ionic emulsifiers that may optionally be used in the cosmetic composition include and/or may be selected from alkanolamides; polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic emulsifiers; polyglycerolated non-ionic emulsifiers; ethoxylated fatty esters; alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated fatty acid esters; copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; sucrose fatty acid esters; polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters; N-(C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ )alkylamine oxides or N-(C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ )acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; and mixtures thereof.

Fatty compounds

The term "fatty compounds" is interchangeable with the term "fats." Fatty compounds are known as compounds that are not soluble (or only sparingly soluble) in water; they are hydrophilic and often solubilized in organic solvents. They include materials such as oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, fatty esters, etc. As used herein, "fatty compounds." As used herein, "silicone oils" are considered to be fatty compounds. Non-limiting examples of useful fatty compounds include oils, waxes, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty esters, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, hydrocarbons, silicones and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Fatty compounds are described by the International Federation of Cosmetic Chemistry Societies, for example, in Cosmetic Raw Material Analysis and Quality, Volume I : Hydrocarbons, Glycerides, Waxes and Other Esters (Redwood Books, 1994), which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include oils, mineral oil, alkanes (paraffins), fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, fatty alcohol esters, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition of the present disclosure includes one or more fatty alcohols. The term "fatty alcohol" denotes an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated) nor glycerolated. The fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, in which R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The fatty alcohol(s) may be liquid or solid. In some cases, it is preferable for the cosmetic compositions to include at least one solid fatty alcohol. The solid fatty alcohols that may be used include those that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.

Solid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, in which R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

Non-limiting examples of useful fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol or lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristyl alcohol or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the one or more fatty alcohols comprise from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific non-limiting examples include C14-22 alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition includes one or more solid fatty alcohols, for example, selected from C14-22 alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, preferably cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohol(s) may be liquid(s) or solid(s). However, in some embodiments, it is preferable that the cosmetic compositions include at least one solid fatty alcohol, particularly saturated fatty alcohols that are solid at 25 ^° C, preferably having at least 12 carbon atoms.

In some cases, the cosmetic compositions include one or more fatty alcohols selected from C14-22 alcohols, decyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions preferably include cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

Fatty acids

In some instances, the fatty compounds include fatty acids, fatty acid derivatives, fatty acid esters, and hydroxyl-substituted fatty acids. The fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and/or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include dibasic, tribasic, and other multiple acids, as well as salts of such fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be selected from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and a mixture thereof. In some instances, the fatty acids are selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, and a mixture thereof.

Waxes

The fatty compounds may, in some cases, include or be selected from one or more waxes. Non-limiting examples of waxes in this category include, for example, synthetic wax, ceresin, paraffin, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, illipe butter, beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin, lanolin derivatives, candelilla, cocoa butter, shellac wax, spermaceti, bran wax, kapok wax, sugarcane wax, montan wax, whale wax, bay berry wax, acacia decurrens flower wax, vegetable waxes (such as sunflower (helianthus annuus) seed wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japanese wax, or cork or sugarcane fiber wax), or a mixture thereof.

Non-silicone oils

In some cases, the fatty compounds may include or be selected from one or more oils. Oils include, but are not limited to, natural oils, such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol; esters, such as a C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate; diesters, such as propylene dipelargonate; and triesters, such as glyceryl trioctanoate. Non-limiting examples of oils that may optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions include isotridecyl isonanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, myristate, coco-dicaprylate/caprate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyl myristate, octododecanol, or combinations of octyldodecanol, lanolin alcohol acetylated, cetyl acetate, isododecanol, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, castor oil, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, triisocetyl citrate, sorbitan sesquioleate, C, C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ triglycerides, caprylyl/capric triglycerides, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, glyceryl triacetyl hydroxystearate, glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate, glyceryl trioctanoate, hydrogenated castor oil, linseed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm oil, illipe butter, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tallow, tricaprin, trihydroxystearin, triisostearin, trilaurin, trilinolein, trimyristin, triolein, tripalmitin, tristearin, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, cholesterol or combinations thereof.

Silicone oils

Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, dimeticonol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In a preferred embodiment, the one or more silicone oils are non-volatile silicone oils. Useful silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates. Other examples of silicone oils which may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicones, such as those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8x106 m2/s) and/or containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms. These silicones optionally include alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, or mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more silicone oils selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone and amodimethicone, and preferably dimethicone.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more amino-functionalized silicones. Non-limiting examples include amodimethicone , bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and a mixture thereof. Amodimethicone is a particularly useful amino-functionalized silicone.

In a preferred embodiment, the one or more silicone oils are selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, capryldimethicone, caprylyl trimethicone, caprylyl methicone, caprylyl methicone, cetearylmethicone, hexadecylmethicone, hexylmethicone, lauryl methicone, myristyl methicone, phenyl methicone, stearyl methicone, stearyl dimethicone, behenyl dimethicone, trifluoropropyl methicone, cetyl dimethicone, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the one or more silicone oils include dimethicone, and optionally one or more other silicone oils.

In some embodiments, one or more fatty compounds may be selected from caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetyl alcohol, coco-caprylate-caprate squalene, a vegetable oil, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, dicaprylyl carbonate, a C15-19 alkane, isohexadecane, hydrogenated jojoba oil, or a mixture thereof.

In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include one or more fatty compounds selected from fatty esters (such as isononyl isonanoate), polyolefins (such as petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, a vegetable and/or plant oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (such as isohexadecane), silicone oils (such as dimethicone), or a mixture thereof.

The term "volatile hydrocarbons" is a hydrocarbon that is volatile at room temperature (25°C) and normal pressure (1 atm). The term "volatile" as used herein in relation to a "volatile hydrocarbon" means any hydrocarbon capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin or lips in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Examples of volatile hydrocarbons include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon oils such as, for example, volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 20 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and in particular, C ₈ to C ₂₀ branched alkanes such as C ₈ to C ₂₀ isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, C ₈ to C ₂₀ branched esters such as isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate, alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Volatile hydrocarbons may be in the form of oil. An “oil” means a compound which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at normal pressure (1 atm), and which, when introduced in a proportion of at least 1% by weight into water at 25°C, is not soluble in water or soluble to a level of less than 10% by weight, based on the weight of the oil introduced into the water. The term “hydrocarbon oil” is an oil comprising hydrogen and carbon atoms, and not containing silicon atoms.

Thickening agents

Non-limiting examples of thickening agents that may be included in cosmetic compositions are set forth below.

Non-mineral thickening agents

The non-mineral thickening agents, if present, may be lipophilic or hydrophilic, i.e., they may be suitable for thickening an oily phase or an anhydrous composition or they may be suitable for thickening an aqueous phase or an aqueous composition. For anhydrous compositions, lipophilic thickening agents or thickening agents that thicken anhydrous (e.g., oily) compositions are useful. Likewise, for aqueous compositions, hydrophilic thickening agents are useful.

Non-limiting examples of non-mineral thickening agents useful for thickening anhydrous compositions include C _12-22 alkyl acrylate/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (INTELIMER), ethylene diamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer such as Oleocraft LP-10-PA-(MV) sold by Croda, polyamide-8 such as Oleocraft LP-20-PA-(MV) sold by Croda, C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl polyacrylate such as INTELIMER IPA 13-6 or INTELIMER IPA 13-1 NG Polymer sold by Air Products & Chemicals, nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer such as Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant sold by Dow Corning or dextrin palmitate such as rheopearl KL2-OR sold by Chiba Flour Milling.

Other non-limiting examples of non-mineral thickening agents useful for thickening anhydrous compositions include thickening polymers such as block copolymers of styrene with isoprene, butadiene, ethylene/propylene or ethylene/butylene, including those currently available under the trade name KRATON, and in particular hydrogenated linear styrene/isoprene diblock copolymers. A related category of thickening polymer includes polymers of alpha-methylstyrene and styrene, such as those under the trade name KRISTALEX. Another thickening polymer includes an alkyl-substituted galactomannan available under the trade name N-HANCE AG. Non-mineral thickening agents useful for thickening anhydrous compositions may also include thickening polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone with polyethylene containing at least 25 methylene units, such as triacontanyl polyvinylpyrrolidone, under the trade name Antaron WP-660.

Non-limiting examples of non-mineral thickening agents that may optionally be included to thicken aqueous compositions include xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia seneca gum, sclerotium gum, agarose, pectin, gellan gum, hyaluronic acid. Additionally, the one or more non-mineral thickening agents may be polymeric thickening agents such as, for example, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamide, carbomer, and acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer.

Additional non-limiting examples of various types of non-mineral thickening agents include:

Carboxylic acid polymers

These polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyhydric alcohol.

Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers useful herein include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol. Carbomers are available under the Carbopol.RTM. 900 line from B.F. Goodrich (e.g., Carbopol® 954). Additionally, other suitable carboxylic acid polymeric agents include Ultrez 10 (B.F. Goodrich) and copolymers of C10-30 alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or a short chain ester thereof (i.e., a C1-4 alcohol), wherein the crosslinking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as C10-C30 alkyl acrylate/acrylate crosslinked polymers and are commercially available as Carbopol .RTM. 1342, Carbopol® 1382, Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2, from BF Goodrich. In other words, examples of carboxylic acid polymer thickening agents useful herein are those selected from carbomers, C10-C30 alkyl acrylate/acrylate crosslinked polymers and mixtures thereof.

Crosslinked polyacrylate polymers

The compositions of the present disclosure may optionally contain crosslinked polyacrylate polymers useful as thickening or gelling agents, including cationic and nonionic polymers. Examples of useful crosslinked nonionic polyacrylate polymers and crosslinked cationic polyacrylate polymers are those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,100,660, U.S. Patent No. 4,849,484, U.S. Patent No. 4,835,206, U.S. Patent No. 4,628,078, U.S. Patent No. 4,599,379 and EP 228,868, all of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entireties.

Polyacrylamide polymers

The compositions of the present disclosure may optionally contain polyacrylamide polymers, particularly nonionic polyacrylamide polymers, including substituted branched or unbranched polymers. Among these polyacrylamide polymers is the nonionic polymer with the CTFA designation polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the trade name Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation.

Other polyacrylamide polymers useful herein include multiblock copolymers of acrylamides and acrylamides substituted with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of such multiblock copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H, from Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

The compositions may also contain thickening and texturizing gels of the type as exemplified by the product line called Lubrajel® from United Guardian. These gels have moisturizing, viscosifying and stabilizing properties.

Polysaccharides

A wide variety of polysaccharides may be useful herein. “Polysaccharides” refer to gelling agents that contain a backbone of repeating sugar (i.e., carbohydrate) units. Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from the group consisting of cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Alkyl substituted celluloses are also useful herein. Of the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers, preferred is the material having the CTFA designation cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the trade name Natrosol® CS Plus from Aqualon Corporation.

Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1 to 3) linked glucose units with one (1 to 6) glucose linked every three units, including commercially available Clearogel ^TM supplied by CS11 from Michel Mercier Products Inc.

Gums

Other thickening and gelling agents useful here include materials that are primarily derived from natural sources. Non-limiting examples of such thickening and/or gelling agents include gums such as those selected from acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of water-soluble natural polymers include gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum karaya, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, sodium alginate, propylene glycol ester of alginic acid, carrageenan, farcelluran, agar, high methoxy pectin, low methoxy pectin, xanthine, chitosan, starch (e.g. derived from corn, potato, wheat, sweet potato and tapioca, α-starch, soluble starch), fermentation polysaccharide (e.g. xanthan gum, pullulan, carciran, dextran), acid heteropolysaccharide derived from the callus of plants belonging to Polyante sp. (eg, tuberous polysaccharide), proteins (eg, sodium casein, gelatin, albumin), chondroitin sulfate and hyaluronic acid.

Non-limiting examples of water-soluble synthetic polymers include polyvinyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polymethacrylate, polyacrylic acid glycerin ester, carboxyvinyl polymer, polyacrylamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinylsulfone, maleic acid copolymer, polyethylene oxide, polydiallylamine, polyethylene imine, water-soluble cellulose derivatives (e.g., carboxymethylcellulose, methyl cellulose, methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, cellulose sulfate sodium salt), and starch derivatives (e.g., starch oxide, starch dialdehyde, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch).

Mineral thickening agents

Mineral thickening agents are mineral-based compounds that thicken or modify the viscosity of skin firming compositions. Non-limiting examples of mineral thickening agents include silica silylate, fumed silica, zeolite, natural clay, synthetic clay, kaolin, hectorite, organically modified hectorite (e.g., INCI: pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (and) disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate), activated clay (e.g., disteardimonium hectorite, stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite, and benzalkonium bentonite), and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, the skin firming compositions may include one or more mineral thickening agents selected from optionally modified silicas, optionally modified clays, and a mixture thereof. The mineral thickening agents may be selected from optionally modified silicas, optionally modified clays, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the mineral thickening agents are selected from lipophilic (organophilic) clays, particularly modified hectorites; hydrophobically treated fumed silica; hydrophobic silica aerogels, and mixtures thereof (e.g., disteardimonium hectorite, silica silylate, or a mixture thereof).

The mineral thickening agents may be selected from silica silylate, fumed silica, zeolite, natural clay, synthetic clay, kaolin, organically modified hectorite (e.g., INCI: 30 pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (and) disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate), an activated clay (e.g., disteardimonium hectorite, stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite and benzalkonium bentonite).

Optionally modified silicas

• des groupes triméthylsiloxyl, obtenus notamment par traitement de la silice sublimée en présence d’hexaméthyldisilazane. Les silices ainsi traitées sont connues sous le nom de "silice silylée" selon le CTFA (6e édition, 1995). Elles sont vendues, par exemple, sous les références Aerosil R812 par la société Degussa, et Cab-O-Sil TS-53 par la société Cabot ;
• les groupes diméthylsilyloxyl ou polydiméthylsiloxane, obtenus notamment par traitement de la silice sublimée en présence de polydiméthylsiloxane ou de diméthyldichlorosilane. Les silices ainsi traitées sont connues sous le nom de "silice diméthyl silylée" selon le CTFA (6e édition, 1995). Elles sont vendues, par exemple, sous les références Aerosil R972 et Aerosil R974 par la société Degussa, et Cab-O-Sil TS-610 et Cab-O-Sil TS-720 par la société Cabot.

Optionally modified silicas include fumed silica optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of which may be less than 1 µm. More specifically, it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduced number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. The silanol groups may in particular be replaced by hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be:

• trimethylsiloxyl groups, obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. The silicas thus treated are known as "silylated silica" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812 by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-53 by the company Cabot;
• dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. The silicas thus treated are known as "dimethyl silylated silica" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972 and Aerosil R974 by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610 and Cab-O-Sil TS-720 by the company Cabot.

Hydrophobic fumed silica in particular can have a nanometer to micrometer particle size, ranging for example from about 5 to 200 nm.

Optionally modified silicas can be, for example, silica aerogel particles. Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are usually synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO ₂ . This type of drying avoids shrinkage of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker CJ., and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science : New York : Academic Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles which can be used in the present invention may have a specific surface area per unit mass (S _M ) ranging from 500 to 1500 m ² /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m ² /g and more preferably from 600 to 800 m ² /g, and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, more preferably from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 30 μm, more preferably from 5 to 25 μm, more preferably from 5 to 20 μm and still more preferably from 5 to 15 μm. In some cases, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 μm, preferably from 5 to 25 μm, better still from 5 to 20 μm and still better still from 5 to 15 μm.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have a specific surface area per unit mass (S _M ) ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μm and more preferably from 5 to 15 μm. The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have a specific surface area per unit volume S _V ranging from 5 to 60 m ² /cm ³ , preferably from 10 to 50 m ² /cm ³ and more preferably from 15 to 40 m ² /cm ³ .

The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica the surface of which is treated with silylating agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example, trimethylsilyl groups. In some cases, it is particularly useful to use hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups. Examples of aerogels sold by Cabot are Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200. Particularly useful aerogels include hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

Optionally modified clays

Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be selected from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such materials include, but are not limited to, clays of the smectite family, as well as the vermiculite, stevensite, and chlorite families. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.

Examples include smectites, such as saponites, hectorites, montmorillonites, bentonites or beidellites and in particular synthetic hectorites (also known as laponites), such as the products sold by Rockwood Additives Limited under the names Laponite XLS, Laponite XLG, Laponite RD, Laponite RDS and Laponite XL21 (these products are sodium-magnesium silicates and in particular sodium-lithium-magnesium silicates); bentonites, such as the product sold under the name Bentone HC by Rheox; magnesium-aluminium silicates, which are in particular hydrated, such as the products sold by Vanderbilt Company under the name Veegum ULTRA, Veegum HS or Veegum DGT, or also calcium silicates, and in particular those in synthetic form sold by the company under the name Micro-Cel C.

In some instances, organophilic clays are preferred, particularly modified clays, such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay may be optionally modified with bentonite or with an optionally modified hectorite. The clays may be modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylarylsulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made of hectorites modified by a quaternary amine, more specifically by an ammonium halide of a C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid, such as a chloride, such as a hectorite modified by distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), for example the product sold under the name Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG or Bentone EW CE by the company Elementis, or stearalkonium hectorites, such as Bentone 27 V. In certain cases, the clay is preferably disteardimonium hectorite.

Mention may also be made of quaternium-18 bentonites, such as those sold under the names Bentone 34 by Elementis, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst and Claytone 40 by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay; or quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by Southern Clay. In certain cases, it is preferable for the clay to be chosen from modified organophilic clays, in particular modified organophilic hectorites, in particular modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite).

Water-soluble organic solvents

In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure optionally include one or more water-soluble organic solvents. The term "water-soluble organic solvent" is interchangeable with the term "water-miscible organic solvent" and means a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In one embodiment, the water-soluble organic solvents have a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof. In one embodiment, the one or more water-soluble solvents may be selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

Further non-limiting examples include monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin. The organic solvents may be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether glycol, propylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, and dipropylene glycol monoisopropyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane, and a mixture thereof.

Polyhydric alcohols are also useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and a mixture thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure include one or more glycols selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

Various ingredients

Non-limiting examples of various miscellaneous ingredients that may optionally be included (or excluded) from cosmetic compositions are provided below.

Antioxidants

Examples of antioxidants include tocopherols (e.g., d-α-tocopherol, d-β-tocopherol, d-γ-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (e.g., d-α-tocotrienol, d-β-tocotrienol, d-γ-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol), and vitamin E (α-tocopheryl acetate). These compounds may be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means, or mixtures thereof. Tocotrienol-enriched vitamin E preparations may be obtained by fractionating vitamin E preparations to remove some of the tocopherols and recover a preparation with a higher concentration of tocotrienol. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated, for example, from wheat germ oil, cereals or palm oil using high performance liquid chromatography, or isolated by alcohol extraction and/or molecular distillation from barley, spent grain or oats. As used herein, the term “tocotrienols” includes the tocotrienol-rich fractions obtained from these natural products as well as the pure compounds. The increased glutathione peroxidase activity protects the skin from oxidative damage.

Vitamin C and derivatives can be used, including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate and the fat-soluble esters tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, glucosamine ascorbate, ascorbyl acetate, etc. In addition, plant extracts containing a large amount of vitamin C, such as camu berry (Myrciaria dubia), acerola, emblica officinalis, and bioflavonoids from rosehip and citrus fruits, can also be used, including water-soluble bioflavonoids such as hesperidin methyl chalcone.

Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignan can also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly enhance the activity of vitamin E.

In addition, carotenoids, especially the xanthophyll type, are also useful antioxidants that can be used. Xanthopyl-type carotenoids include molecules, such as lutein, canthaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Xanthophylls protect compounds, such as vitamin A, vitamin E, and other carotenoids.

Flavonoids can also act as antioxidants. In some cases, the flavonoid is a flavanone (derived from 2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: butin, eriodictyol, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeriodictyol, isosakuranetin, naringenin, naringin, pinocembrin, poncirin, sakuranetin, sakuranin, and sterubin. The flavonoid may be a flavanonol (derived from 3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one. Flavanols include: taxifolin, aromadedrin, chrysandroside A, chrysandroside B, xeractinol, astilbin, and fustin. The flavonoid may be a flavone (derived from 2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: apigenin, luteolin, tangeritin, chrysin, baicalein, scutellarein, wogonin, synthetic flavones: diosmin, and flavoxate. The flavonoid may be a flavonol (derived from 3-hydroxy-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, azaleatin, fisetin, galangin, gossypetin, kaempferide, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, natsudaidain, pachypodol, quercetin, rhamnazine, rhamnetin, azalein, hyperoside, isoquercitin, kaempferitrin, myricitrin, quercitrin, robinin, rutin, spiraeoside, xanthorhamnin, amurensin, icariin, and troxerutin. The flavonoid may be a flavan-3-ol (2-phenyl-3,4-dihydro-2H-chromen-3-ol derivatives). Flavan-3-ols include: catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epiafzelechin, fisetinidol, guibourtinidol, mesquitol, and robinetinidol. The flavonoid may be a flavan-4-ol (derived from 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: apiforol and luteoforol. The flavonoid may be an isoflavone (derived from 3-phenylchromen-4-one). Isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, Biochanin A, Formononetin, and the daidzein metabolite Equol.

The antioxidant may be an anthocyanidin (derived from the 2-phenylchromenylium cation). Anthocyanidins include: Aurantinidin, cyanidin, delphinidin, europinidin, luteolinidin, pelargonidin, malvidin, peonidin, petunidin, rosinidin, and xanthone.

The antioxidant may be a dihydrochalcone (1,3-diphenyl-1-propanone derivative). Dihydrochalcones include: Phloretin, Dihydrochalcone phloretin Phlorizin, Aspalathin, Naringin dihydrochalcone, Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone and Nothofagin. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, dihydrochalcones can exert an antioxidant effect by reducing reactive free radicals, such as reactive oxygen species and reactive nitrogen species.

The antioxidant may be an anthocyanin. Anthocyanins and their derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins encompass a class of flavonoid compounds that are naturally occurring water-soluble compounds responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains, and flowers. In addition, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Inhibition of collagenase helps prevent and reduce wrinkles, increase skin elasticity, etc., which are caused by a reduction in skin collagen. Anthocyanins can be obtained from any portion of various plant sources, such as the fruit, flower, stem, leaves, root, bark, or seeds. One skilled in the art will understand that certain parts of the plant may contain higher natural levels of anthocyanins, and therefore, these parts are used to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some cases, antioxidants may include one or more betacyanins. Betacyanins, like anthocyanins, can be found in natural sources and are antioxidants.

The antioxidant may be a phenylpropanoid (cinnamic acid derivatives). Phenylpropanoids include: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its antioxidant pharmacore 2,6-dihydroxy acetophenone), 5-hydroxyferic acid, sinapic acid, coumaryl alcohol, coniferyl alcohol, sinapyl alcohol, eugenol, chavicol, safrole, p-coumaric acid and sinapinic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, phenylpropanoids can neutralize free radicals.

The antioxidant may be a chalcone (1,3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one derivative). Chalcones include: Butein, Okanine, Carthamin, Marein, Sophoradine, Xanthohumol, Flavokawine A, Flavokawine B, Flavokawine C and synthetic Safalcone.

The antioxidant may be a curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, desmethoxycurcumin, bis-desmethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin, and tetrahydrocurcuminoids. Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids can be derived from the rhizomes of Curcuma longa. Tetrahydrocurcumin, a metabolite of curcumin, has been shown to be a more potent and stable antioxidant than curcumin.

The antioxidant can be a tannin. Tannins include: Tannin, Terflavin B, Glucogallin, D-gallic Acid and Quercitannic Acid.

The antioxidant may be a stilbenoid. Stilbenoids include: Resveratrol, Pterostilbene, and Piceatannol. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4'-trihydroxystilbene, 3,4,3',5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (piceatannol), 2,3',4,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (oxyresveratrol), 4,4'-dihydroxystilbene, and their alpha and beta-glucside, galactoside, and mannoside derivatives.

The antioxidant may be a coumarin (2H-chromen-2-one derivatives). Coumarins include: 4-Hydroxycoumarin, Umbelliferone, Aesculetin, Herniarin, Auraptene and Dicoumarol.

The antioxidant can be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include: beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein and idebenone. Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignan can also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly enhance the activity of vitamin E.

The antioxidant can be: xanthone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2,6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2,4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, alpha-lipoic acid, ellagic acid, chicoric acid, chlorogic acid, rosmarinic acid, salicylic acid, acetylcysteine, s-allyl cysteine, barbigerone, chebulagic acid, edaravone, ethyloxyquin, glutathione, hydroxytyrsol, idebenone, melatonin, N-acetylserotonin, nordihydroguaretic acid, olecanthal, oleuropein, paradol, piceatannol, probucol, propyl gallate, protocatechuic acid, pyritinol, rutin, secoisolariciresinol diglucoside, sesamin, silibinin, silymarin, theaflavin, theaflavin digylate, thymoquinone, trolox, tyrosol, polyunsaturated fatty acids and sulfur-based antioxidants such as methionine or lipoic acid.

Skin active agents

Non-limiting examples of skin active agents include madecassoside, retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or) chloride, selenium, mixtures of samphire extract-cinnamon, tea and octanoylglycine such as Seppic's Sepicontrol A5 TEA--the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine marketed in particular by Seppic under the trade name Sepicontrol A5--zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cystate; -derivatives in particular copper and copper pidolate in the form of Cuivridone-plant extracts of Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha pipenta, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed by Maruzen -extracts of the alga Spiraea ulmaria, such as those sold under the name Sebonormine by Silab--extracts of the alga Laminaria saccharina, such as those sold under the name Phlorogine by Biotechmarine--extracts of the root of coronilla mixtures (Sanguisorba officinalis/Poterium officinale), ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as those sold under the name Sebustop by Solabia--Linseed extracts such as those sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer--Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron Extract BG by Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by Ichimaru Pharcos--an oil extract of argan oil blends of Senoa sersulfata (creeping serenoa) and sesame seeds such as those sold under the name Regu SEB by Pentapharm--blends of extracts of willow herb, Terminalia chebula, nasturium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as those sold under the name Seborilys Green Tech;--Pygeum afrianum extracts such as those sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by Euromed--Serenoa serrulata extracts such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International, and those sold by Euromed Company - extracts of mixtures of plantain, Berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate such as those sold under the name Seboclear Rahn - a clove extract such as that sold under the name Clove Powder powder by Maruzen - argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl Laboratories Serobiologiques; --lactic protein filtrates, such as those sold under the name Normaseb by Sederma--kelp extracts, such as those sold under the name Laminarghane by Biotechmarine--laminaria digitata algae oligosaccharides, such as those sold under the name Phycosaccharide 30 AC by Codif--sugar cane extracts such as those sold under the name Policosanol by Sabinsa, sulfonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by Ichyol--meadow grass extracts (Spiraea ulmaria) such as those sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by societeLibiol--sebacic acid, notably sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Seboderma--glucommanans extracted from konjac tuber and modified by chains alkylsulfonates such as those sold under the name Biopol Beta by Arch Chemical--Sophora angustifolia extracts, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by Bioland--quinquina succirubra bark extracts such as those sold under the name Red Bark HS by Alban Muller--Quillaja saponaria extracts such as those sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller--glycine grafted onto an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by SEPPIC--the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in gel form under the name AC. Net by Sederma;-phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid tri-citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM ECI by Sasol; a trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM.ECL by Sasol--hydroxydecanoic acid, including mixtures of hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid and 1,10-decanediol such as those sold under the name Acnacidol BG by Vincience and mixtures thereof.

Depigmenting agents

Non-limiting examples of depigmenting agents include alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, homogentisic acid, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D-panthetin calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, certain compounds derived from plants such as chamomile, red strawberry, aloe family (vera, ferox, bardensis), blackberry, skullcap, a kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a root extract of Paeonia suffruticosa, such as that sold by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Liquid Botanpi Be, a brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) extract such as the molasses extract marketed by Taiyo Kaga under the name Liquid Molasses, without this list being exhaustive. Particular depigmenting agents include alpha and beta-arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, panthetin D calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, a kiwi fruit (Actinidiadia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a Paeonia suffruticosa root extract, such as that sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

Anti-wrinkle agent

The term “anti-wrinkle agent” refers to a natural or synthetic compound that produces a biological effect, such as increasing the synthesis and/or activity of certain enzymes, when brought into contact with a wrinkled area of skin, thereby reducing the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines. Non-limiting examples of anti-wrinkle agents include: desquamating agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or prevent their degradation, agents that stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes, or agents that stimulate keratinocyte differentiation; muscle relaxants and/or dermo-contracting agents, anti-free radical agents and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives and retinoids other than retinol (as discussed above, such as retinyl palmitate); ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives as described in particular in EP-1345919, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane as described in particular in EP-1345919, plant extracts including sea fennel and olive leaf extracts, as well as their hydrolyzed derivatives such as protein hydrolysates or soy proteins, algae extracts and in particular laminaria, bacterial extracts, sapogenins such as diogenin and Dioscorea plant extracts, in particular wild yam, including: a-hydroxy acids, b-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their acyl derivatives, in particular {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl)-amino]-3-methyl-}acetic acid and lipopeptides marketed by the company under the trade names SEDERMA Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene, manganese salts and magnesium salts, in particular gluconates, and mixtures thereof. In at least one instance, the skin firming composition includes adenosine derivatives, such as non-phosphate derivatives of adenosine, such as in particular 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-adenosine isopropoylidene; toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside and 6-chloropurine riboside. Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as phenylisopropyl adenosine (“PIA”), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl)phenethyl-amino-5'- -N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129,944) and metrifudil.

As already noted, skin active agents may be included as one or more of the various ingredients. With respect to the total amount of skin active agents in the cosmetic compositions, if present, the total amount of skin active agents may be greater than zero to about 9% by weight, greater than zero to about 8% by weight, greater than zero to about 7% by weight, greater than zero to about 6% by weight, greater than zero to about 5% by weight, greater than zero to about 4% by weight, greater than zero to about 3% by weight, greater than zero to about 2% by weight; about 10 ppm to about 10 wt% (100,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 5 wt% (50,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 2.5 wt% (25,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 1 wt% (10,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.5 wt% (5,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 10 wt% (3,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.2 wt% (2,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.1 wt% (ppm), about 10 ppm to about 10 ppm to about 500 ppm; about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 2.5 wt%, about 1 to about 0.5 wt%. about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight; about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 6% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 4% by weight; about 3 to about 10% by weight, about 3 to about 8% by weight, about 3 to about 6% by weight, about 3 to about 5% by weight; about 4 to about 10% by weight, about 4 to about 8% by weight, or about 4 to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

pH

The pH of the cosmetic composition may vary but is generally less than 7, i.e., it is acidic. In various embodiments, the pH of the cosmetic compositions is from about 3 to about 7, from about 3.5 to about 7, from about 4 to about 7, from about 3 to about 6.5, from about 3.5 to about 6.5, from about 4 to about 6.5, from about 3 to about 6, from about 3.5 to about 6, from about 4 to about 6, from about 3 to about 5.5, or from about 3.5 to about 5.5.

Viscosity

The viscosity of the cosmetic composition will vary. However, in some embodiments, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition is from 10,000 to about 100,000 cPa.s at 25°C, and the shear rate is 1 s ^-1 . In other embodiments, the viscosity is about 10,000 to about 80,000 cPa.s, about 10,000 to about 60,000 cPa.s, about 10,000 to about 50,000 cPa.s, about 20,000 to about 100,000 cPa.s, about 20,000 to about 80,000 cPa.s, about 20,000 to about 60,000 cPa.s, about 25,000 to about 100,000 cPa.s, about 25,000 to about 80,000 cPa.s, or about 25,000 to about 60,000 cPa.s at 25C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 .

Procedures

The present disclosure also relates to methods of treating the skin. The methods include applying the cosmetic compositions to the skin. The cosmetic compositions are typically applied directly to the skin using the hands or a tissue. The skin may be washed or rinsed prior to application. The method of treating the skin may be performed once daily or multiple times daily. For example, the method of treating the skin may be performed once daily, twice daily, once weekly, twice weekly, and may be performed for an extended period of time, such as 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 months. The methods dissolve dead skin cells, improve the appearance of fine lines and discoloration, remove excess oil from the skin, improve skin texture and tone, and/or moisturize the skin.

Methods of implementation

1. un polyacrylate d’alkyle en C10-30, de préférence environ 0,5 à environ 3 % en poids, plus préférentiellement environ 0,5 à environ 2 % en poids, encore plus préférentiellement environ 0,5 à environ 1,5 % en poids de polyacrylate d’alkyle en C10-30 ;

1. au moins 5 % en poids d’un ou plusieurs polyols de lactone, de préférence au moins 5 à environ 15 % en poids, plus préférentiellement environ 5 à environ 10 % en poids d’un ou plusieurs polyols de lactone, de préférence la gluconolactone et/ou l’acide 3-O-éthyl ascorbique ;

In preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises or consists of:

1. a polyC10-30 alkyl acrylate, preferably about 0.5 to about 3 wt. %, more preferably about 0.5 to about 2 wt. %, even more preferably about 0.5 to about 1.5 wt. % of polyC10-30 alkyl acrylate;

1. at least 5% by weight of one or more lactone polyols, preferably at least 5 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 10% by weight of one or more lactone polyols, preferably gluconolactone and/or 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid;

1. un ou plusieurs émulsifiants non ioniques, de préférence environ 0,1 à environ 5 % en poids, plus préférentiellement environ 0,5 à environ 4 % en poids, encore plus préférentiellement environ 1 à environ 3 % en poids d’un ou plusieurs émulsifiants non ioniques ;
2. un ou plusieurs composés gras, de préférence d’environ 1 à environ 25 % en poids, plus préférentiellement d’environ 2 à environ 20 % en poids, encore plus préférentiellement d’environ 5 à environ 15 % en poids d’un ou plusieurs composés gras, par exemple, un ou plusieurs composés gras choisis parmi :

wherein an amount of the one or more lactone polyols of (b) is at least 10 times greater than the C10-30 alkyl acrylate of (a), preferably at least 10 times to about 25 times greater, more preferably at least 10 times to about 20 times greater;

1. one or more nonionic emulsifiers, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, even more preferably about 1 to about 3% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers;
2. one or more fatty compounds, preferably from about 1 to about 25% by weight, more preferably from about 2 to about 20% by weight, even more preferably from about 5 to about 15% by weight of one or more fatty compounds, for example, one or more fatty compounds chosen from:

(d)(1) one or more fatty alcohols, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols;

(d)(2) one or more fatty carbonate esters, preferably about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 12% by weight, even more preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight of one or more fatty carbonate esters; and/or

1. de l'eau, de préférence environ 50 à environ 85 % en poids d'eau, plus préférentiellement environ 55 à environ 80 % en poids, plus préférentiellement environ 55 à environ 75 % en poids d'eau ;
2. un ou plusieurs agents épaississants, de préférence environ 0,1 à environ 5 % en poids, plus préférentiellement environ 0,5 à environ 4 % en poids, plus préférentiellement environ 0,5 à environ 3 % en poids d'un ou plusieurs agents épaississants, par exemple un ou plusieurs agents épaississants choisis parmi :

(d)(3) one or more volatile hydrocarbons, preferably about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, even more preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight of one or more volatile hydrocarbons;

1. water, preferably about 50 to about 85% by weight water, more preferably about 55 to about 80% by weight, more preferably about 55 to about 75% by weight water;
2. one or more thickening agents, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more thickening agents, for example one or more thickening agents chosen from:

(f)(1) one or more taurate polymers or copolymers, preferably about 0.01 to about 5 wt. %, more preferably about 0.1 to about 4 wt. %, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt. % of one or more taurate polymers or copolymers;

1. un ou plusieurs alpha hydroxyacides, bêta hydroxyacides, sels de ceux-ci, ou une combinaison de ceux-ci, de préférence 0,1 à environ 10 % en poids, plus préférentiellement environ 1 à environ 10 % en poids, encore plus préférentiellement environ 2 à environ 8 % en poids d’un ou plusieurs alpha hydroxyacides, bêta hydroxyacides, sels de ceux-ci, ou une combinaison de ceux-ci ;
2. un ou plusieurs solvants organiques solubles dans l’eau, de préférence d’environ 0,1 à environ 20 % en poids, plus préférentiellement d’environ 0,5 à environ 18 % en poids, encore plus préférentiellement d’environ 1 à environ 15 % en poids d’un ou plusieurs solvants organiques solubles dans l’eau ;
3. facultativement, un ou plusieurs ingrédients divers, de préférence environ 0,01 à environ 10 % en poids, de préférence environ 0,1 à environ 8 % en poids, plus préférentiellement environ 1 à environ 6 % en poids d'un ou plusieurs ingrédients divers ;

(f)(2) one or more crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, preferably about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight;

1. one or more alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, salts thereof, or a combination thereof, preferably 0.1 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 10% by weight, even more preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight of one or more alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, salts thereof, or a combination thereof;
2. one or more water-soluble organic solvents, preferably from about 0.1 to about 20 wt. %, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 18 wt. %, even more preferably from about 1 to about 15 wt. % of one or more water-soluble organic solvents;
3. optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients;

in which all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition.

1. environ 0,5 à environ 3 % en poids, de préférence environ 0,5 à environ 2 % en poids, plus préférentiellement environ 0,5 à environ 1,5 % en poids de polyacrylate d’alkyle en C10-30 ;

1. au moins 5 % en poids d’un ou plusieurs polyols de lactone, de préférence au moins 5 à environ 15 % en poids, plus préférentiellement environ 5 à environ 10 % en poids d’un ou plusieurs polyols de lactone, de préférence la gluconolactone et/ou l’acide 3-O-éthyl ascorbique ;

In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises or consists of:

1. about 0.5 to about 3 wt. %, preferably about 0.5 to about 2 wt. %, more preferably about 0.5 to about 1.5 wt. % of poly(C10-30)alkyl acrylate;

1. at least 5% by weight of one or more lactone polyols, preferably at least 5 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 10% by weight of one or more lactone polyols, preferably gluconolactone and/or 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid;

1. environ 0,1 à environ 5 % en poids, de préférence environ 0,5 à environ 4 % en poids, plus préférentiellement environ 1 à environ 3 % en poids d’un ou plusieurs émulsifiants non ioniques, en particulier, un ou plusieurs émulsifiants non ioniques choisis parmi les esters d’acides gras de saccharose, les esters d’acides gras de polyéthylène glycol, les esters de glycéryle d’acides gras, les alcanolamides, les éthoxylates d’amides, les alcools alkylés, les alkylpolyglucosides, les esters de sorbitan, les esters et éthoxylates de polyol, les éthers d’éthylène glycol d’alcools alcools gras, les éthoxylates d’alcools gras, et un mélange de ceux-ci ;
2. environ 1 à environ 25 % en poids, de préférence environ 2 à environ 20 % en poids, de manière davantage préférée environ 5 à environ 15 % en poids d’un ou plusieurs composés gras, par exemple un ou plusieurs composés gras choisis parmi :

wherein the one or more lactone polyols of (b) are in an amount at least 10 times greater than an amount of C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate of (a), preferably at least 10 times to about 25 times greater, more preferably at least 10 times to about 20 times greater;

1. about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 3% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers, in particular, one or more nonionic emulsifiers selected from sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, glyceryl esters of fatty acids, alkanolamides, amide ethoxylates, alkylated alcohols, alkylpolyglucosides, sorbitan esters, polyol esters and ethoxylates, ethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol ethoxylates, and a mixture thereof;
2. about 1 to about 25% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 15% by weight of one or more fatty compounds, for example one or more fatty compounds selected from:

(d)(1) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, in particular, one or more fatty alcohols selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, preferably cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and combinations thereof;

(d)(2) about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight of one or more fatty carbonate esters, in particular one or more fatty carbonate esters of the formula: R1O(C=O)OR2, in which R1 and R2 are independently linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chains having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or having 2 to 28 carbon atoms, or having 4 to 25 carbon atoms, or having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably dicaprylyl carbonate; and/or

1. environ 50 à environ 85 % en poids, plus préférentiellement environ 55 à environ 80 % en poids, encore plus préférentiellement environ 55 à environ 75 % en poids d’eau ;
2. environ 0,1 à environ 5 % en poids, de préférence environ 0,5 à environ 4 % en poids, plus préférentiellement environ 0,5 à environ 3 % en poids d'un ou plusieurs agents épaississants, par exemple un ou plusieurs agents épaississants choisis parmi ;

(d)(3) about 0.1 to about 12 wt. %, preferably about 0.5 to about 10 wt. %, more preferably about 1 to about 8 wt. %, of one or more volatile hydrocarbons, in particular, one or more volatile hydrocarbons selected from isoparaffin, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane, undecane, tridecane, dodecane, isohexyl, isodecyl, neopentanoate, a C15-19 alkane, and a combination thereof;

1. about 50 to about 85% by weight, more preferably about 55 to about 80% by weight, even more preferably about 55 to about 75% by weight of water;
2. about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more thickening agents, for example one or more thickening agents selected from;

(f)(1) one or more taurate polymers or copolymers, preferably about 0.01 to about 5 wt. %, more preferably about 0.1 to about 4 wt. %, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt. % of one or more taurate polymers or copolymers, in particular, one or more taurate polymers or copolymers selected from acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof, preferably among a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloethyldimethyl taurate copolymer, an ammonium acrylomethyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer,
ammonium polyacrylomethyldimethyl taurate, and a mixture thereof; and

1. environ 0,1 à environ 10 % en poids, de préférence environ 1 à environ 10 % en poids, plus préférentiellement environ 2 à environ 8 % en poids d’un ou plusieurs hydroxyacides, bêta-hydroxyacides, sels de ceux-ci, ou une combinaison de ceux-ci, par exemple,

(f)(1) about 0.01 to about 5 wt. %, more preferably about 0.1 to about 4 wt. %, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt. % of one or more crosslinked polyacrylate polymers (polyacrylate crosslinked polymers), preferably polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6;

1. about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, preferably about 1 to about 10 wt. %, more preferably about 2 to about 8 wt. % of one or more hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, salts thereof, or a combination thereof, for example,

(g)(1) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 6% by weight of one or more hydroxy acids selected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, phytic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, a salt thereof, and a combination thereof, preferably a combination of glycolic acid, lactic acid and phytic acid;

1. environ 0,1 à environ 20 % en poids, de préférence environ 0,5 à environ 18 % en poids, plus préférentiellement environ 1 à environ 15 % en poids d’un ou plusieurs solvants organiques solubles dans l’eau choisis parmi la glycérine, les mono-alcools C₂- C₅, les polyols (alcools polyhydriques), les glycols, et un mélange de ceux-ci, de préférence la glycérine et un ou plusieurs glycols tels que le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, ou une combinaison de ceux-ci ;
2. facultativement, environ 0,01 à environ 10 % en poids, de préférence environ 0,1 à 8 % en poids, de manière davantage préférée environ 1 à environ 6 % en poids d'un ou plusieurs ingrédients divers choisis parmi les conservateurs, les parfums, les correcteurs de pH, les sels, le agents chélateurs, les tampons, les antioxydants, les flavonoïdes, les vitamines, les extraits botaniques, les agents filtrant les UV, les protéines, les hydrolysats et/ou isolats de protéines, les charges, les colorants, les agents matifiants, des agents actifs cutanés supplémentaires, les agents dépigmentants, les agents antirides, et une combinaison de ceux-ci ;

(g)(2) about 0.01 to about 5 wt. %, preferably about 0.1 to about 4 wt. %, more preferably about 0.1 to about 2 wt. % of one or more beta-hydroxy acids selected from salicylic acid, beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, tropic acid, trethocanic acid and a combination thereof, preferably salicylic acid;

1. about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 18% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 15% by weight of one or more water-soluble organic solvents selected from glycerin, C ₂ -C ₅ monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof, preferably glycerin and one or more glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, or a combination thereof;
2. optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, fillers, colorants, matting agents, additional skin actives, depigmenting agents, anti-wrinkle agents, and a combination thereof;

in which all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, the cosmetic composition is free or essentially free of polyorganosiloxanes (silicones). In various embodiments, the cosmetic composition is free or essentially free of amino silicones, for example amodimethicone.

Cosmetic compositions may be in a variety of forms. For example, in many instances, the compositions are in the form of a liquid, gel, lotion, cream, and/or spray. The compositions may be packaged in a variety of different containers. Non-limiting examples of useful packaging include tubes, jars, capsules, unit dose packages, pouches, and bottles, including squeeze tubes and bottles.

EXAMPLES

Since various modifications could be made to the processes described above without departing from the scope of the invention, it is intended that the entire subject matter contained in the above description and in the examples given below be construed as illustrative and not limiting. The amounts of ingredients in the compositions/formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

HAS B C D (has) Stabilizing POLYC10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE 0.5 0.6 (b) Skin active GLUCONOLACTONE 5 5 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID 10 10 Weight ratio (a):(b) 1:10 N / A 1:17 N / A (c) Water soluble solvent CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 4 4 GLYCERIN 3 3 3 3 (d) Non-ionic emulsifiers GLYCERYL STEARATE, STEARETH-100, GLYCOL STEARATE, SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, LAURETH-4, POLYSORBATE 60 AND/OR CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 1.3 1.3 1.4 1.4 (e) Fatty compounds CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE
CETYL ALCOHOL, COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE SQUALANE, ZINGIBER OFFICINALE (GINGER) ROOT OIL, BEHENYL ALCOHOL, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE, C15-19 ALKANE, ISOHEXADECANE AND/OR HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL 10.8 10.8 3.8 3.8 (f) Thickening agents HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 0.4 0.4 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE 1 1 0.8 0.8 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.2 0.2 (h) Alpha HA/Salt GLYCOLIC ACID, LACTIC ACID,
PHYTIC ACID, CITRIC ACID AND/OR SODIUM CITRATE 5.8 5.8 1.5 1.5 (i) Beta HA/Salt SALICYLIC ACID 0.2 0.2 (j) Vitamin ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE 5 5 Active CAFFEINE 0.2 0.2 Active PANAX GINSENG ROOT EXTRACT 1 1 Additional miscellaneous ingredients such as preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, botanical extracts, vitamins and derivatives thereof, chelators, pigments/pearlizing agents, humectants/emollients, etc. ¹ ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10 (g) WATER qs qs qs qs pH 4 4 4.4 4.4 Member 1.8 3 3.3 5 Member (standard deviation) 0.3 0.5 0.9 0

¹ For example, chlorphenesin and/or phenoxyethanol (preservatives); tocopherol (vitamin/preservative); sodium hydroxide (pH adjuster); ilex paraguariensis leaf extract, passiflora edulis fruit extract and/or hylocereus undatus fruit extract (botanical extracts); trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (chelator); and/or synthetic fluorphlogopite, titanium dioxide and/or tin oxide (pigments/pearlizing agents), lauryl lysine and/or C12-15 alkyl benzoate (humectants/emollients), etc.

Example 2

(Adhesion)

The compositions shown in Example 1 were tested on a silicone substrate and tested for adhesion. Approximately 0.2 grams of each composition was applied to the silicone substrate (Skin FX Plate I15) which was preheated to 32°C. The applied composition was then spread over one quarter of the total surface area of the plate at a rate of one circle per second for 15 seconds. The spread was allowed to sit for 15 seconds and then spread at 15 circles per second over the same surface area. The compositions were then allowed to sit for 2 minutes and the adhesion of the dried layers was assessed by a panel of 3 experts. The expert pressed his index finger firmly against the dried layer and removed his finger to assess the adhesion (tackiness) of the layer. The experts rated the adhesion on a scale of 1 to 5, where 1 represents little or no adhesion and 5 represents maximum adhesion. The results are presented in the table below.

n = 3 HAS B C D Average
Adhesion 1.8 3 3.3 5 Standard deviation 0.3 0.5 0.9 0

The foregoing description illustrates and describes the invention. The disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments, but it is to be understood that the invention may be used in various other combinations, modifications and environments and may be subject to changes or modifications within the scope of the inventive concepts as expressed herein, based on the above teachings and/or the skill or knowledge of those skilled in the art. The embodiments described herein are further intended to explain the best modes known to the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to use the disclosure in such or other embodiments, and with various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein.

DEFINITIONS

An “alkyl radical” is a linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon group, in particular C1-C8, more particularly C1-C6, preferably C1-C4 such as methyl, ethyl, isopropyl and tert-butyl.

An “alkoxy radical” is an alkyloxy in which the alkyl is as described above.

An “alkenyl radical” is an unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon group, in particular C2-C8, more particularly C2-C6, preferably C2-C4 such as ethylenyl, propylenyl.

An “alkylene” radical is a linear or branched divalent saturated hydrocarbon group in C1-C8, in particular in C1-C6, preferably in C1-C4 such as methylene, ethylene or propylene.

Some of the various component categories identified for cosmetic compositions may overlap. In cases where an overlap may exist and the composition/product includes two (or more than two) overlapping components, an overlapping component does not represent more than one component. For example, tocopherol may be considered both a “vitamin” and a “preservative.” If a particular composition/product includes both a vitamin and a preservative, tocopherol may serve only as a vitamin or only as a preservative (tocopherol does not serve simultaneously as a vitamin and a preservative, even though it functionally provides more than one effect).

Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts. However, additional cations such as ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, can also form salts.

Silicones may optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions, but in some cases the compositions may be free or essentially free of silicones. Silicones are synthetic polymers consisting of repeating units of the elemental siloxane, silicon and oxygen, combined with other elements, most commonly carbon and hydrogen. Silicones are therefore also referred to as polysiloxanes. In some cases the cosmetic compositions of the present case may be free or essentially free of dimethicones, amodimethicones, dimethiconols, cyclosiloxanes, siloxanes, etc.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
(a) a poly(C10-30)alkyl acrylate;
(b) at least 5% by weight of one or more lactone polyols;
wherein the one or more lactone polyols of (b) are in an amount at least 10 times greater than the C10-30 alkyl acrylate of (a);
(c) one or more non-ionic emulsifiers;
(d) one or more fatty compounds; and
(e) water;
in which all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition. The composition of claim 1, further comprising:
(f) one or more thickening agents. The composition of claim 2, wherein at least one of the one or more thickening agents is a taurate polymer or copolymer, preferably a taurate polymer or copolymer selected from acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof, preferably selected from hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, and a mixture of these. A composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising:
(g) one or more alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, salts thereof, or a combination thereof, preferably one or more alpha hydroxy acids selected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, phytic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, a salt thereof, and a combination thereof. The composition of claim 4, further comprising one or more beta-hydroxy acids selected from salicylic acid, beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, tropic acid, trethocanic acid and a combination thereof. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which at least one of the one or more fatty compounds of (d) is a fatty alcohol, preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and their mixtures, preferably cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and their combination. The composition of claim 6, wherein at least one of the one or more fatty compounds of (d) is a volatile hydrocarbon, preferably selected from isoparaffin, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane, undecane, tridecane, dodecane, isohexyl, isodecyl, neopentanoate, a C15-19 alkane, and a combination thereof. A composition according to any preceding claim having a pH of about 3.5 to about 6.5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising:
(a) about 0.5 to about 1.5 wt. % of poly(C10-30 alkyl acrylate);
(b) at least 5 to about 15% by weight of gluconolactone, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid or a combination thereof;
in which (b) is in an amount at least 10 times greater than (a);
(c) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers;
(d) about 5 to about 25 wt. % of a plurality of fatty compounds, wherein the plurality of fatty compounds comprises:
(d)(1) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols;
(d)(2) about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more fatty compounds in addition to the one or more fatty alcohols;
(e) about 50 to about 85% by weight of water;
(f) about 0.1 to about 5 wt. % of one or more thickening agents, wherein at least one of the one or more thickening agents is selected from taurate polymers and copolymers;
(g) about 5 to about 10% by weight of one or more alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, salts thereof or a combination thereof;
(h) about 5 to about 20% by weight of one or more water-soluble organic solvents selected from glycerin, C ₂ -C ₅ monohydric alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and a mixture thereof;
in which all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition. A method of treating the skin comprising applying to the skin the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.