FR3132215A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS INCLUDING HIGH QUANTITIES OF HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL - Google Patents

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS INCLUDING HIGH QUANTITIES OF HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL This disclosure relates to stable cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, and optionally containing 4-tert-cyclohexanol. The cosmetic compositions further include water, a variety of emulsifiers, fatty alcohols, additional fatty compounds, and thickening polymers. Methods of stabilizing cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, and optionally 4-tert-cyclohexanol, and methods of treating the skin with the cosmetic compositions are also disclosed. Figure for the abstract: none.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING HIGH QUANTITIES OF HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL FIELD OF DISCLOSURE

The present disclosure relates to stable cosmetic compositions that include high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; and on methods of stabilizing the cosmetic composition containing high quantities of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol. The present disclosure also describes methods of treating the skin with the cosmetic compositions.

SUMMARY

In one aspect, the present disclosure focuses on, among other things, cosmetic compositions including a surprisingly high amount of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol. In various embodiments, the compositions further include surprisingly high amounts of 4-tert-cyclohexanol. However, the inclusion of 4-tert-cyclohexanol is not required and in some embodiments it is not included in the cosmetic compositions. These active ingredients provide a myriad of cosmetic benefits to the skin but have historically been very difficult to incorporate into stable cosmetic compositions, particularly in high quantities. The inventors of the present disclosure have developed, among other things, surprisingly stable compositions which include high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, and optionally high amounts of 4-tert-cyclohexanol. Due to the high amounts of these ingredients, the cosmetic compositions provide exceptional cosmetic properties to the skin. Due to the high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, the cosmetic compositions reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve the production of hyaluronic acid via stimulation of glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis, thereby softening the stratum corneum to relieve the cumulative stress on the epidermis and dermis, etc. Due to the high amounts of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, the cosmetic compositions reduce skin irritation, soothe the skin, and/or reduce or alleviate tingling, burning and tightness.

In one aspect, the present disclosure focuses on, among other things, a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes:

(a) hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) water;

(c) one or more nonionic emulsifiers selected from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8;

(d) one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18;

(e) one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15;

(f) one or more fatty alcohols;

(g) one or more fatty compounds; And

(h) one or more thickening polymers.

wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Among nonionic emulsifiers, non-limiting examples of glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 include glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl nolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or a mixture thereof. In at least one case the glyceryl ester includes glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 include ethoxylated emulsifiers, for example, ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters, and mixtures thereof. Ethoxylated fatty acids are particularly preferred.

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 include alkyl polyglucosides (cetearyl glucoside), polyglycerol-based emulsifiers (polygyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate), sorbitan fatty esters (polysorbate 60 ), sugar esters or ethers, sugar-based esters or ethers, polyol fatty esters or ethers, glyceryl fatty esters or ethers, ethoxylates thereof, or mixtures thereof -this.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include fatty alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include fatty esters (e.g., isononyl isononanoate ), polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane , squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil , pentahydrosqualene, plant and/or vegetable oil (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), and a mixture thereof.

Useful thickening polymers include, among others, taurate copolymers. Non-limiting examples include acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

Silicones may optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions but preferably the compositions are free or essentially free of silicones. Silicones are synthetic polymers made up of repeating units of siloxane, silicon and elemental oxygen, combined with other elements, most commonly carbon and hydrogen. Thus, silicones are also called polysiloxanes. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions herein are free or essentially free of silicones, such as dimethicones, amodimethicones, dimethiconols, cyclosiloxanes, siloxanes, etc.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are part of a kit comprising a cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure and one or more compositions contained separately. In one embodiment, the compositions are received in a device, for example, a device that dispenses the cosmetic composition and the one or more separately contained compositions. In one embodiment, the device dispenses the cosmetic composition and the one or more compositions contained separately without mixing them together before dispensing. Although high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol are incorporated into the cosmetic compositions, and optionally, high amounts of tert-butylcyclohexanol, the compositions are unique in that they are compatible with other cosmetic compositions, in particular, other cosmetic compositions for the treatment of the skin.

Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to methods of stabilizing high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in cosmetic compositions; and on methods of stabilizing high amounts of tert-butylcyclohexanol in cosmetic compositions. These methods, as described throughout the disclosure, include incorporating high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, and optionally, high amounts of tert-butylcyclohexanol, into the compositions of the present disclosure.

Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to methods of treating skin. The methods include applying the cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure to the skin. In one embodiment, the methods reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, enhance hyaluronic acid production via stimulation of glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis, thereby softening the stratum corneum to relieve cumulative stress on the epidermis and dermis, etc. When tert-butylcyclohexanol is included in the compositions, the methods further treat skin irritation, soothe the skin, and/or reduce or alleviate tingling, burning, and tightness.

Other features and iterations of the invention are described in more detail below.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

A common problem associated with formulating compositions, particularly a composition comprising multiple components, is ensuring physical stability, chemical stability, solubility, and the like. Many food, cosmetic, personal care and household product additives in which they are incorporated are difficult to stabilize and solubilize, particularly when used in high quantities. The consequence of stability and solubility problems is important. For example, stability issues can cause partial, if not complete, loss of product integrity, loss of color, malodors, viscosity changes, etc. Stability issues can also cause an increase or decrease in the amount of the component in question that must be applied. When it comes to active ingredients, stability issues reduce or eliminate activity, and prevent active ingredients from reaching their intended target in the desired quantity.

With aging, the outer layer of skin (epidermis) thins, even though the number of cell layers remains unchanged. The number of pigment-containing cells (melanocytes), however, decreases. As a result, the skin appears pale and translucent. Large pigmented spots (age spots, senile spots, or lentigos) may appear in areas exposed to the sun. Changes in connective tissue reduce the firmness and elasticity of the skin. This is known as elastosis. This is more marked in areas exposed to the sun (solar elastosis). Elastose produces the leathery, weathered appearance common to farmers, fishermen and others who spend a lot of time outdoors. Dehydration increases the risk of skin damage. A poor diet can also negatively influence the skin, causing dryness, breakouts and puffiness.

Human skin acts as a primary barrier between the body and its environment. Crucial for this barrier function of the skin is the lipid matrix in the outermost layer of the skin (epidermis), the stratum corneum (SC). Two of its functions are (1) to prevent excessive loss of water through the epidermis and (2) to prevent environmental compounds from penetrating the viable layers of the epidermis and dermis and thus causing an immune response. The composition of the SC lipid matrix is dominated by three classes of lipids: cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides. These lipids adopt a highly ordered three-dimensional structure of densely packed stacked lipid layers (lipid lamellae): the lateral and lamellar lipid organization. How these lipids are ordered depends on the composition of the lipids. A very common skin disease in which the SC lipid barrier is affected is atopic dermatitis (AD).

What is needed, among other things, are compositions that include high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; and compositions which additionally include high amounts of 4-tert-cyclohexanol.

In one aspect, the present disclosure focuses on, among other things, a stable cosmetic composition that includes high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, and that optionally includes high amounts of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol; and on methods of stabilizing cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, and optionally high amounts of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol. In one embodiment, the compositions include:

(a) about 10 to about 40% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) water;

(c) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of nonionic emulsifier selected from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8;

(d) about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18;

(e) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15;

(f) about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols;

(g) about 5 to about 20% by weight of one or more fatty compounds; And

(h) one or more thickening polymers;

wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

A gel emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion, in which the water phase is a gel and the oil droplets/particles are dispersed in the gel matrix.

(a) Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol

Hydroxypropyl tetrapyrantriol is a sugar-protein hybrid made from xylose and can effectively activate the synthesis of GAG (glycosaminoglycans), promote hyaluronic acid production, collagen synthesis, adhesion between dermis and epidermis , the synthesis of structural components of the epidermis, the regeneration of damaged tissues, and maintaining the elasticity of the skin.

The amount of hydroxypropyl tetrapyrantriol in cosmetic compositions will vary but in various embodiments it is from about 10% by weight to about 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In additional embodiments, the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrapyrantriol in the composition is from about 10 wt% to about 35 wt%, from about 10 to about 30 wt%, from about 10 to about 25% by weight, from about 10 to about 20% by weight, from about 12 to about 35% by weight, from about 12 to about 30% by weight, from about 12 to about 25% by weight, from about 12 to about 20% by weight, about 12 to about 18% by weight, about 14 to about 30% by weight, about 14 to about 25% by weight, about 14 to about 20% by weight weight, or about 14 to about 18% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

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The quantity of water in cosmetic compositions can and will vary depending on the quantity of other components in the cosmetic compositions. Generally, the amount of water in the composition is about 30 to about 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the amount of water in the cosmetic composition is about 30 to about 80 weight percent, about 30 to about 70 weight percent, about 30 to about 60 weight percent, d 'about 30 to about 50% by weight, about 40 to about 80% by weight, about 40 to about 70% by weight, about 40 to about 60% by weight, about 40 to about 50 % by weight, from about 50 to about 80% by weight, from about 50 to about 75% by weight, from about 50 to about 70% by weight, from about 55 to about 85% by weight, about 55 to about 80% by weight, about 55 to about 75% by weight, about 55 to about 70% by weight, about 60 to about 85% by weight, about 60 to about 80% by weight, from about 60 to about 75% by weight, or from about 60 to about 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(vs) Nonionic Emulsifiers/Glyceryl Esters

The cosmetic composition of the present disclosure includes one or more nonionic emulsifiers selected from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8. Non-limiting examples include glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, hydroxystearate glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl lactate palmitate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, or a mixture thereof. Preferred glyceryl esters include glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, or a mixture thereof.

In various embodiments, the one or more glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 are selected from glyceryl esters that are solid at a temperature below 30°C.

The total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers selected from one or more glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 may vary. In one embodiment, the amount of the nonionic emulsifier selected from one or more glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 is from 0.1 weight percent to about 5 weight percent based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In additional embodiments, the amount of the nonionic emulsifier selected from one or more glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8 is about 0.1 to about 4 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.2% by weight to about 5% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 4% by weight weight, from about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.3% by weight to about 5% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.5% by weight to about 5% by weight, d about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(d) Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 include ethoxylated emulsifiers, for example, ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, it is preferable for nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 to include one or more ethoxylated fatty acids.

Non-limiting examples of ethoxylated fatty acids include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, in particular particularly those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (according to the INCI names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (according to the INCI names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (according to the INCI names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); palmitostearate from PEG-9 to PEG-50; behenate from PEG-9 to PEG-50 (according to the INCI names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (INCI name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters include polysorbate-20 (POE(20) sorbitan monolaurate), polysorbate-21 (POE(4) sorbitan monolaurate), polysorbate-40 (POE(20) monopalmitate ) sorbitan), polysorbate-60 (POE(20) sorbitan monostearate), polysorbate-61 (POE(4) sorbitan monostearate), polysorbate-65 (POE(20) sorbitan Trèsstearate), polysorbate-80 (POE(20)sorbitan monooleate), polysorbate-81 (POE(4)sorbitan monooleate), polysorbate 85 (POE(20)sorbitan trioleate), sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, monooleate sorbitan, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate and sorbitan Trèsstearate and a mixture thereof.

The total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 will vary. However, in one embodiment, the amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 is about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. cosmetic. In additional embodiments, the amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 ranges from about 0.1 to about 4 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.2% by weight to about 5% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, d 'about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, about 0.2 to about 2% by weight, about 0.3% by weight to about 5% by weight, about 0.3 to about 4 % by weight, from about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.5% by weight to about 5% by weight, from about 0 .5 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(e) Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 include alkyl polyglucosides ( cetearyl glucoside ), polyglycerol-based emulsifiers (polygyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate), sorbitan fatty esters (polysorbate 60 ), sugar esters or ethers, sugar-based esters or ethers, polyol fatty esters or ethers, glyceryl fatty esters or ethers, ethoxylates thereof, or mixtures thereof -this.

In a preferred embodiment, one or more of the nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 are sugar esters or ethers or sugar-based esters and ethers. “Sugar ester” as used herein means “fatty acid ester of carbohydrate alcohol” or “fatty alcohol ester of saccharic acid” and “sugar ether” as used herein means “ether of fatty alcohol of carbohydrate alcohol”. Sugar-based esters and ethers may be esters or ethers of (a) a sugar, a carbohydrate alcohol, or a sugar derivative and (b) a fatty acid or fatty alcohol. In some embodiments, esters may be preferred over ethers, and vice versa. Esters and ethers can be formed by the combination of a sugar, a carbohydrate alcohol or a sugar derivative with a fatty acid, or by the combination of a sugar, a carbohydrate alcohol or a sugar derivative. a sugar derivative with a fatty alcohol. For example, a sucrose laurate ester may be formed by the combination of sucrose with an ester of lauric acid or lauryl sucronic acid, and unless otherwise indicated herein, it is not necessary for the present modes of preparation. realization that a particular ester (or ether) is the result of esterification (or etherification) with a fatty acid as opposed to a fatty alcohol, or vice versa.

Preferred sugars of esters and ethers include monosaccharides, disaccharides and oligosaccharides, and in a preferred embodiment the sugar is a mono-, di- or tri-saccharide, or a mixture thereof. Exemplary sugars include allose, altrose, arabinose, cellobiose, erythrose, erythrulose, fructose, fucose, galactose, gentiobiose, glucose, gulose, idose, isomaltose, lactose, lactulose, lyxose, maltose, maltotriose, mannobiose, mannose, melezitose, raffinose, rhamnose, ribose, ribulose, sorbose, sucrose, talose, threose, trehalose, xylobiose, xylose and xylulose. In a preferred embodiment, the sugar is glucose or sucrose. Exemplary carbohydrate alcohols include allitol, arabitol, ducitol, erythritol, galactitol, glycerol, glycol, iditol, inositol, isomalt, lactitol, mallitol, maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol and xylitol. Exemplary sugar derivatives such as sulfonated sugars and sugar amines may also be used in the present embodiments. These examples are non-limiting examples, and it is understood that any saccharide, carbohydrate alcohol, or other sugar derivative which will provide a hydrophilic head group to the ester or ether and is otherwise pharmaceutically acceptable is suitable for use in use in the present embodiments.

The fatty acids and fatty alcohols used in esters and ethers can be any fatty acid or fatty acid alcohol capable of providing a hydrophobic tail group such that the ester or ether can exert surface active properties. Fatty acids and fatty alcohols can be short chain (i.e., less than 8 carbon atoms in length), medium chain (i.e., 8 to 14 carbon atoms in length), or long chain (i.e., more than 14 carbon atoms in length). Branched or unbranched fatty acids and fatty alcohols may be used. Non-limiting examples of suitable saturated fatty acids include butyric, caproic, caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachidic and behenic acids, and non-limiting examples of suitable unsaturated fatty acids include myristoleic, palmitoleic , oleic, linoleic, linolenic, arachidonic, eicosapentaenoic, erucic and docosahexaenoic. Non-limiting examples of suitable linear fatty alcohols include caproylic (caproic), caprylic, capric, lauryl, myristyl, palmitylic (cetyl), palmitoleyl, stearyl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenylic, arachidyl, behenyl, erucylic and lignoceryl alcohols, and non-limiting examples of suitable branched fatty alcohols include isocetyl, isostearyl and isobehenyl alcohols.

In a preferred embodiment, the fatty component of the sugar-based ester or ether is a C ₁₂ fatty component (e.g., stearic acid, stearyl alcohol, lauric acid, lauryl alcohol, etc.), or a C ₈ to C ₁₈ fatty component. In another embodiment, a mixture of medium and long chain fatty components is preferred, particularly a mixture of saturated and unsaturated C ₈ to C ₁₈ fatty components. In yet another embodiment, a mixture of saturated and unsaturated C ₈ to C ₁₈ fatty acids is preferred. In a different embodiment, the sugar-based ester or ether is a di- or tri-ester of a fatty acid or alcohol, or a di- or tri-ether of a fatty alcohol.

Sugar-based esters and ethers may be monoesters or monoethers, or may be di-, tri-, or polyester-esters and ethers, depending on the sugar or carbohydrate alcohol selected for use. In one embodiment, mono- and di-esters, or mono- and di-ethers are preferred. Esterification and etherification can occur at any free hydroxyl group in the sugar or carbohydrate alcohol.

Mixtures of esters or ethers are also considered for use. Mixtures can be modified in a number of ways. For example, a particular ester used in a formulation, such as a sugar monostearate, may include a variety of sugar monostearate esters, each esterified at a different hydroxyl group. Or, for example, a sugar stearate may include a variety of esters having varying degrees of esterification, e.g., monostearate, distearate, Tristearate, etc. Or, in yet another example, a sugar monoacid or sugar diacid may include mono- or di-esterification with a stearyl alcohol fatty component. In yet another example, a mixture containing a particular ester such as a sugar stearate may contain primarily esters of stearyl acid (or stearyl alcohol), but also contain esters of other fatty components, such as, for example, esters of myristic acid (or myristyl alcohol), etc. In yet another example, an "ester" can already be a mixture of fatty acids to form esters, for example the sucrose cocoate "ester" is in fact a mixture of esters including laurate, palmitic, myristic esters , stearic and caproic sucrose with smaller amounts of other short and long chain fatty acids as well as mixed di- and tri-esters. These non-limiting examples of mixtures also apply to ethers as well as sugar-based esters.

Sugar-based esters and ethers can be prepared by any suitable means known in the art, for example by incubating an aqueous mixture of a sugar or sugar alcohol, a fatty acid and a catalytically active amount of a lipolytic enzyme, and recovery of the ester resulting from the mixture. Other processes include mixing the sugar with a fatty acid chloride at around 80°C, with simple removal of the hydrogen chloride formed and recovery of the sugar fatty acid ester. Similarly, a mixture of a methyl fatty acid ester and sugar can be heated to a temperature of about 90°C in the presence of a base catalyst, distilling the methanol formed and recovering the ester. sugar fatty acid. Many suitable esters and ethers are also commercially available.

The fatty acid esters of sugars may be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acid and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters and methylglucose.

The C ₈ -C ₂₂ or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids forming the fatty unit of the esters which can be used comprise a linear, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl chain, containing, respectively, from 8 to 22 or from 14 with 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates are preferably used.

As examples of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, mention may be made of sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose Trèsstearate and mixtures thereof; and examples of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and methylglucose which may be mentioned are polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate. We can also mention glucose or maltose monoesters such as methyl o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition preferably includes at least one ester of C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and methylglucose, for example, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate.

The sugar fatty alcohol ethers which may be used may be solid at a temperature less than or equal to 45°C and may be chosen in particular from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of C ₈ fatty alcohol ethers. -C ₂₂ and glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, and ethers or mixtures of ethers of a C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol and methylglucose. These are in particular alkyl polyglucosides, which in various embodiments are preferred. A particularly preferred example is the C12-20 alkyl glucoside. Accordingly, in one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include at least one alkyl polyglucoside, for example, a C12-20 alkyl glucoside.

The C ₈ -C ₂₂ or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the ethers which can be used comprise a linear, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl chain, containing, respectively, from 8 to 22 or from 14 with 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the ethers can be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl.

As examples of fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, mention may be made of alkylpolyglucosides such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. Also mentioned are sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate or sucrose Trèsstearate and mixtures thereof, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate and alkyl polyglucosides.

In some embodiments, nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 may be selected from: polyglyceryl fatty acid esters of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one C ₈ -C hydrocarbon group ₂₂ , saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, such as a C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C 8 -C 18 alkyl or alkenyl group, and more preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl group. C ₈ -C ₁₂ , and from 2 to 12 glycerols, preferably from 2 to 10 glycerols and more preferably from 2 to 8 glycerols; polyoxyethylenated alkyl glycerides such as polyethylene glycol derivatives of a mixture of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of caprylic and capric acids (preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and even more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units); polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers of at least one, preferably one, fatty alcohol comprising at least one C ₈ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, such as a C ₈ -C alkyl or alkenyl group ₂₂ , preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl group, and more preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, and from 2 to 60 ethylene oxides, preferably from 2 to 30 oxides ethylene, and more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxides; and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably 2 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably 4 to 6 glycerols. The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be chosen from mono, di and tri esters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably saturated acid, including 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and myristic acid.

The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 Trèsstearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 diisostearate PG2, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 caprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 Tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate, PG4 caprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, caprylate PG4, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stearate, distearate PG4, PG4 Tristearate, PG4 Isostearate, PG4 Diisostearate, PG4 Triisostearate, PG4 Oleate, PG4 Dioleate, PG4 Trioleate, PG5 Caprate, PG4 Dicaprate PG5, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 laurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate PG5, PG5 stearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 Tristearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate , PG6 caprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 laurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 myristate , PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 Trèsstearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG10 caprate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 tricaprylate, PG10 laurate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 trilaurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 trimyristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 distearate, PG10 Tristearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 diisostearate, PG10 triisostearate PG10, PG10 oleate, PG10 dioleate, PG10 trioleate, and mixtures thereof.

The polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers, preferably polyoxyethylene fatty ethers, may comprise from 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. . The fatty chain of the ethers may be chosen in particular from lauryl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers which may be mentioned are lauryl alcohol ethers comprising 2, 3, 4 and 5 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-4 and Laureth-5 ).

The mixed esters of fatty acids, or of fatty alcohol, of carboxylic acid and of glycerol, which can be used as nonionic surfactant above, can be chosen in particular from the group comprising mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol with an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, and alpha- hydroxy acid and/or succinic acid, with glycerol. The alpha-hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The alkyl chain of the fatty acids or alcohols from which the mixed esters which may be used are derived may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. It may in particular be stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonate, palmitate, myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyl, lauryl or capryl chains, and mixtures of those. -this. Non-limiting examples of mixed esters include the mixed ester of glycerol and the mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (CTFA name: Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate) ; the mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFA name: Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate); the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate citrate); the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate lactate), and mixtures thereof.

The fatty esters of sorbitan and the oxyalkylenated fatty esters of sorbitan can be chosen from the group comprising the C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of sorbitan and the oxyethylenated C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of sorbitan. They can be formed from at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and from sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters may generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units. These esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used. Non-limiting examples include sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sorbitan Trèsstearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), and mixtures thereof .

The block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B), which can be used can be chosen in particular from the block copolymers of formula

HO(C ₂ H ₄ O) _x (C ₃ H ₆ O) _y (C ₂ H ₄ O) _z H

wherein x, y and z are integers such that x + z ranges from 2 to 100 and y ranges from 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof.

The polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl ethers (C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ ), which can be used as the nonionic surfactant above, can be selected from decyltetradeceth- 30 of PPG-6; polyoxyethylene tetradecyl ether (30) polyoxypropylene (6); decyltetradeceth-12 from PPG-6; polyoxyethylene tetradecyl ether (12) polyoxypropylene (6); decyltetradeceth-24 from PPG-13; decyltetradecyl ether of polyoxyethylene (24) polyoxypropylene (13), decyltetradeceth-20 of PPG-6; decyltetradecyl ether of polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (6), ceteth-1 of PPG-4; cetyl ether of polyoxyethylene (1) polyoxypropylene (4), ceteth-1 of PPG-8; cetyl ether of polyoxyethylene (1) polyoxypropylene (8), ceteth-1 of PPG-40; cetyl ether of polyoxyethylene (10) polyoxypropylene (4), ceteth-20 of PPG-4; cetyl ether of polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (4), ceteth-20 of PPG-5; cetyl ether of polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (5), ceteth-20 of PPG-8; cetyl ether of polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (8), and steareth-34 of PPG-23; polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene stearyl ether (34 EO) (23 PO).

In various embodiments, it may be more preferable that the polyoxyethylenated ( _1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl ethers are _C 16 -C ₃₀ alkyl ethers. -C ₂₄ ) (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO), which can be selected from the group consisting of decyltetradeceth-30 of PPG-6, decyltetradeceth-24 of PPG-13, decyltetradeceth-20 of PPG-6, ceteth-20 from PPG-5, ceteth-20 from PPG-8 and steareth-34 from PPG-23. It may be even more preferable that the polyoxyethylenated ( _{1-40 EO} ) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl ethers (C 16 -C 30 ) are (C ₁₆ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl ethers ( 15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO), which may be selected from the group consisting of decyltetradeceth-30 from PPG-6, decyltetradeceth-24 from PPG-13, ceteth-20 from PPG-5 and ceteth-20 from PPG-8.

In one embodiment, the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 9 to 12 may be chosen from alkylpolyglucosides (e.g., C12-20 alkyl glucoside), polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-dipolyhydroxystearate 2, polyglyceryl-2 polyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl polyricinoleate -3, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, and a mixture thereof.

The total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 will vary. However, in various embodiments, the amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 is from about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. cosmetic. In additional embodiments, the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15 is about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.% , from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about about 2% by weight, about 1.0 to about 5% by weight, about 1.0 to about 4% by weight, about 1.0 to about 3% by weight, or about 1 0 to approximately 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(f) Fatty alcohols

The term "fatty alcohol" designates an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably at least 12 carbon atoms and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated). ) nor glycerol. The fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, in which R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl), linear or branched group, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms , more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

Fatty alcohol (fatty alcohols) can be liquid or solid. In some embodiments, it is preferable that the cosmetic compositions include at least one solid fatty alcohol, particularly saturated fatty alcohols that are solid at 25°C, preferably having at least 12 carbon atoms.

Solid fatty alcohols that may be used include those that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, i.e. they have a water solubility of less than 1 % by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.

In one embodiment, the solid fatty alcohols are represented by: R-OH, in which R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

Non-limiting examples of useful fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol or lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); cerylic alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanylic alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the one or more fatty alcohols have 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific non-limiting examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, or mixtures of these.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition includes one or more solid fatty alcohols, for example, chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, preferably cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In certain cases, the cosmetic compositions include one or more fatty alcohols selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl, myristyl, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions preferably include cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol.

The total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols in the cosmetic compositions is from 1 weight percent to about 10 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. In additional embodiments, the total amount of one or more fatty alcohols in the composition is in a range of about 1 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 to about 4% by weight, from about 1 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(g) Fatty compounds

The term “fatty compounds” is interchangeable with “fat”. Fatty compounds are known as compounds that are not soluble (or only poorly soluble) in water; they are hydrophilic and are often solubilized in organic solvents. They include materials such as oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, fatty esters, etc. For purposes of this disclosure, "fatty compounds" do not include fatty acids, which are separately referred to above. Additionally, silicones are not considered fatty compounds under this disclosure. Non-limiting examples of useful fatty compounds include oils, waxes, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty esters, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, hydrocarbons, derivatives thereof, and mixtures. of these. Fatty compounds are described by the International Federation Societies of Cosmetic Chemists, for example, in Cosmetic Raw Material Analysis and Quality, Volume I: Hydrocarbons, Glycerides, Waxes and Other Esters (Redwood Books, 1994), which is incorporated herein as reference in its entirety.

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include oils, mineral oil, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, fatty alcohol esters, hydroxy fatty acids. -substituted, waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, and a mixture thereof.

Fatty alcohol derivatives

In one embodiment, the fatty compounds include one or more fatty alcohol derivatives, which are different from fatty alcohols (component (d)). Fatty alcohol derivatives include fatty esters derived from one or more fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol derivatives also include alkoxylated fatty alcohols, for example, having from about 1 to about 100 moles of an alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol. For example, alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated with from about 1 to about 80 moles, from about 2 to about 50, from about 5 to about 45 moles, from about 10 to about 40 moles, or from 15 to about approximately 35 moles, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, of an alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol.

As examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, a steareth (for example, steareth-2, steareth-20 and steareth-21), a laureth (for example, laureth-4 and laureth-12), a ceteth (for example , ceteareth-10 and ceteareth-20) and a ceteareth (for example, ceteareth-2, ceteareth-10 and ceteareth-20) are mentioned. In at least one case, the one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols include steareth-20. In some cases, the one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be exclusively steareth-20.

Additional fatty alcohol derivatives which may optionally be suitable include methyl stearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; the ceteth series of compounds, such as ceteth-1 to ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol groups present; the series of steareth compounds such as steareth-1 to 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol groups present; from ceteareth 1 to ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, namely a mixture of fatty alcohols containing mainly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of groups ethylene glycol present; the C1-C30 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth and ceteareth compounds just described; polyoxyethylene ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers such as PPG-9-steareth-3, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG8-ceteth-1 and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and a mixture of these.

Fatty acids

In one embodiment, the fatty compounds are chosen from fatty acids, fatty acid derivatives, fatty acid esters, hydroxyl-substituted fatty acids and alkoxylated fatty acids. The fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and/or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids and other multiple acids as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be chosen from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the fatty acids are selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, and a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include those of the following formula:

wherein the average value of n is approximately 3 and R ¹ , R ² and R ³ may each independently be a fatty acid group or hydrogen, provided that at least one of R ¹ , R ² and R ³ is a fatty acid group. For example, R ¹ , R ² and R ³ can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of C ₁ -C ₄₀ , C ₁ -C ₃₀ , C ₁ -C ₂₅ , or C ₁ -C ₂₀ , C ₁ -C ₁₆ or C ₁ -C ₁₀ .

Fatty acid derivatives are defined here as including fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols as defined above, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohol derivatives as defined above when such derivatives of Fatty alcohols have an esterifiable hydroxyl group, fatty acid esters of alcohols other than the fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol derivatives described above, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives include ricinoleic acid, glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, ether stearate polyoxyethylene cetyl, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, glyceryl polystearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl Trèsstearate, PEG-8 laurate , PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and a mixture thereof. Preferred for use herein are glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, and a mixture thereof.

Raincoats

The fatty compounds may, in certain cases, include or be chosen from one or more waxes. Non-limiting examples of waxes in this category include, for example, synthetic wax, ceresin, paraffin, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, illipe butter, beeswax, carnauba, microcrystalline, lanolin , lanolin derivatives, candelilla, cocoa butter, shellac wax, spermaceti, furfural, capok wax, sugar cane wax, lignite wax, whale wax, Pennsylvania wax tree wax, Acacia decurrens flower wax, vegetable waxes (such as sunflower (helianthus annuus), carnauba, candelilla, ouricury or Japanese seed wax or fiber waxes from cork or sugar cane), or a mixture of these.

Oils

In some cases, the fatty compounds may include or be selected from one or more oils. Suitable oils include, among others, natural oils, such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol; esters, such as C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate; diesters, such as propylene dipelarganate; and triesters, such as glyceryl trioctanoate. Non-limiting examples of oils that may optionally be included in cosmetic compositions include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, coco-dicaprylate/caprate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl neopentanoate, cetyl neopentanoate isohexyl, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyl myristate, octododecanol, or combinations of octyldodecanol, acetylated lanolin alcohol, cetyl acetate, isododecanol, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, castor oil, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, triisocetyl citrate, sorbitan sesquioleate, C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ triglycerides, caprylic/capric triglycerides, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, glyceryl triacetyl hydroxystearate, glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate, glyceryl trioctanoate, hydrogenated castor oil, flaxseed oil, l mink oil, olive oil, palm oil, illipé butter, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, tallow, tricaprine, trihydroxystearin, triisostearin, trilaurin, trilinolein, trimyristin, triolein, tripalmitin, tristearin, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, cholesterol, or combinations thereof.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include one or more fatty compounds chosen from fatty esters (such as isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (such as petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, plant and/or vegetable oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (such as isohexadecane), or a mixture thereof.

The total amount of the one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty compounds is from about 5% by weight to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In additional embodiments, the total amount of the one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic compositions is about 5 to 15% by weight, about 5 to about 12% by weight, about 6 to about 20%. by weight, from about 6 to about 15% by weight, from about 6 to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(h) Thickening polymers

The cosmetic composition of the present disclosure may optionally include one or more thickening polymers. Non-limiting examples of various types of thickening polymers include taurate copolymer, polyacrylate, polymethacrylate, polyethylacrylate, polyacrylamide, C10-30 alkyl poly acrylate, acrylic acid/acrylonitrogen copolymer, copolymer of steareth-20 acrylates/itaconate, a ceteth-20 acrylates/itaconate copolymer, an acrylates/aminoacrylates/C10-30 alkyl itaconate copolymer PEG-20, an acrylates/aminoacrylates copolymer, an acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, an acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, a crosslinked acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, a crosslinked acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer HEMA, a cross-linked acrylates/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer, a cross-linked acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate copolymer, an acrylates/palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, an acrylic acid/acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid copolymer, and a crosslinked acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer, carbomers, hydrophobically modified polypolyacrylates; hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acids, hydrophobically modified polyacrylamides; hydrophobically modified polyethers in which these materials may have a hydrophobic group which may be selected from cetyl, stearyl, oleayl, and combinations thereof, an acrylamide/ammonium acrylate copolymer, a copolymer of acrylates, a 4-crosslinked copolymer of acrylates, a 3-crosslinked copolymer of acrylates, a copolymer of acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate, a crosslinked copolymer of acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, a Steareth-20 acrylates/itaconate copolymer, ammonium polyacrylate/isohexadecane/PEG-40 castor oil; a sodium carbomer, a cross-linked polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), a polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7, a polyacrylate 13/polyisobutene/polysorbate 20, a cross-linked polyacrylate copolymer-6, a polyamide-3, a polyquaternium- 37, a sodium polyacrylate, and a mixture thereof.

Examples of nonionic thickening polymers include:

(1) Celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples which may be mentioned include: hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8- C22, for example the product NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C ₁₆ alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel; and hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol nonylphenyl ether (15)) sold by the company Amerchol,

(2) Hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C ₂₂ alkyl chain) sold by the Lamberti company, and the RE210-18 products (C ₁₄ alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C ₂₀ alkyl chain) sold by the Rhone-Poulenc company,

(3) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty chain monomers; examples that may be mentioned include: ANTARON V216 or GANEX V216 products (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P., products ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P.,

(4) Copolymers of C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example the methyl acrylate/oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the Goldschmidt company under the name ANTIL 208,

(5) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer,

(6) Polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of a polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which can be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more taurate copolymers. These copolymers can act as gelling agents, thickeners, and provide emulsification properties. In particular, the inventors have discovered that taurate copolymers are particularly effective in stabilizing the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure.

Non-limiting examples of taurate copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer /VP, a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof.

Taurate copolymers may be hydrophilic and may contain an acrylate component. The at least one taurate copolymer may include, for example, an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and/or a copolymer sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate. In certain cases, at least one taurate copolymer can be obtained from ethylenically unsaturated sulfo-functional monomers and ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers, for example from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methacrylamide and 2-acrylamido acid -2-methyl-propanesulfonic acid.

In certain cases, the one or more taurate copolymers may be chosen from an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a taurate copolymer ammonium acryloyldimethyl/VP, and mixtures thereof. Additionally, in some cases, the cosmetic compositions may include both a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer and an ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, and optionally further include a C10-30 alkyl poly acrylate.

Generally, the quantity of the one or more thickening polymers will vary depending on the type of thickening polymers used; and depending on the desired viscosity of the cosmetic composition. Therefore, in one embodiment, the total amount of the one or more thickening agents is sufficient to achieve the viscosities indicated throughout the present disclosure. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more thickening polymers may range from about 1 to about 8 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the amount of the one or more thickening polymers may range from about 1 to about 6 weight percent, about 1 to about 5 weight percent, about 1 to about 3 percent. by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(i) 4-tert-Butylcyclohexanol

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure do not necessarily require or include 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol – it is optional. However, in various embodiments it is preferable to include 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol. 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol may be in a cis configuration, a trans configuration, or a mixture of cis and trans configurations. Among other things, 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol is useful for reducing skin irritation, for soothing the skin, and/or for reducing or alleviating tingling, burning, and tightness.

The total amount of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol in the cosmetic composition is from about 0.1 weight percent to about 5 weight percent based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In additional embodiments, the total amount of the 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol is about 0.1 to about 4 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent, about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 0, 5 to about 2% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight or about 1 to about 2% by weight weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(j) Water-soluble solvents

The term "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with the term "water-miscible solvent" and refers to a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and it has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, water-soluble solvents have a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of one or more water-soluble solvents are chosen from glycerin, mono-alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof.

As examples of organic solvents, mention may be made in a non-limiting manner of monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, 4 -tert-butylcyclohexanol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example , monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

Additional non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (the caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene monomethyl ether glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ether ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene monomethyl ether glycol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-ethyl ether, monomethyl ether of dipropylene glycol, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane, and a mixture thereof.

Polyhydric alcohols are also useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof. Polyol compounds can also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3- propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1, 2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure include one or more glycols and/or one or more alcohols, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents is from about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In additional embodiments, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents is about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 15 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1% by weight to about 1% by weight, from about 2 to about 20% by weight, from about 2 to about 15% by weight, from about 2 to about 10% by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight, from about 5 to about 20% by weight, from about 5 to about 15% by weight, or about 5 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(k) Silicones

In one embodiment, the composition includes one or more silicones. However, silicones are not necessarily present. Therefore, in certain embodiments, they can be excluded from cosmetic compositions. In other embodiments, it is preferable to include one or more silicones. Non-limiting examples of silicones include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In some cases, the one or more silicones are non-volatile silicone oils. In some embodiments, the silicone is polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), the polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 atoms carbon, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates. Other examples of silicone that may be mentioned include linear or cyclic volatile silicones, such as those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8x106 m2/s) and/or containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms. These silicones optionally include alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane , or mixtures thereof .

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more silicones chosen from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone and amodimethicone, preferably dimethicone.

In certain cases, the cosmetic compositions include one or more amino-functional silicones. Non-limiting examples include amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis- amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and a mixture thereof. Amodimethicone is a particularly useful amino-functional silicone.

The total amount of silicones in the cosmetic composition, if any, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the amount of silicones in the cosmetic composition is about 0.01 to about 15 weight percent, about 0.01 to about 10 weight percent, about 0.01 to about 10 weight percent, about 0.01 to about 10 weight percent, about 5% by weight, about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.01 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, about 0, 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 2 wt.%, based of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(l) Miscellaneous ingredients

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may optionally include one or more various ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the cosmetic compositions and do not disrupt or materially affect the basic and novel properties of the cosmetic compositions. The various ingredients commonly used in cosmetic products are known in the art. Non-limiting examples include various emulsifiers/surfactants other than those in (c), (d) and (e), preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusting agents, salts, buffers, antioxidants. , flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, hydrolysates and/or protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, dyes, mattifying agents, active agents for skin supplements, depigmentation agents, anti-wrinkle agents, etc. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure include one or more active agents for the skin, in particular, a madecassoside. Non-limiting examples of various miscellaneous ingredients which may optionally be included in (or excluded from) the cosmetic compositions are provided below.

Various emulsifiers/surfactants

Various emulsifiers/surfactants can optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions. Miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants are those that are not: (c) a nonionic emulsifier selected from glyceryl esters having an HLB of about 3 to about 8; (d) nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18; and (e) nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15. The various emulsifiers/surfactants may be nonionic, anionic, cationic and/or amphoteric/zwitterionic.

Antioxidants

Examples of antioxidants include tocopherols (e.g. d-α-tocopherol, d-β-tocopherol, d-γ-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (e.g. d-α-tocotrienol, d-β -tocotrienol, d-γ-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol) and vitamin E (α-tocopherol acetate). These compounds can be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means, or mixtures thereof. Vitamin E preparations enriched with tocotrienol can be obtained by fractionating vitamin E preparations to remove a portion of tocopherols and recover a preparation more highly concentrated in tocotrienol. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated, for example, from wheat germ oil, seed, or palm oil using high-performance liquid chromatography, or isolated by alcohol extraction and/or molecular distillation from barley, spent grain or oats. As used herein, the term “tocotrienols” includes the tocotrienol-rich fractions obtained from these natural products as well as the pure compounds. Increased glutathione peroxidase activity protects the skin from oxidative stress.

Vitamin C and its derivatives may be used, including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, and the fat-soluble esters tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, phosphated magnesium ascorbyl, ascorbyl-glucoside, glucosamine ascorbate, ascorbyl acetate, etc. In addition, plant extracts containing a high amount of vitamin C such as camu berry (Myrciaria dubia), acerola, emblica officinalis, and rosehip and citrus bioflavonoids can be used including water-soluble bioflavonoids. Water such as hesperidin methyl chalcone can also be used.

Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignan can also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly increase the activity of vitamin E.

Additionally, carotenoids, particularly of the xanthophyll type, are also useful antioxidants that can be used. Xanthophyll-type carotenoids include molecules such as lutein, canthaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Xanthophylls protect compounds such as vitamin A, vitamin E and other carotenoids.

Flavonoids can also function as antioxidants. In some cases, the flavonoid is a flavanone (derived from 2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: butin, eriodictyol, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeriodictyol, isosakuranetin, naringenin, naringin, pinocembrin, poncirin, sakuranetin, sakuranin, and sterubin. The flavonoid may be a flavanonol (3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one derivative). Flavanols include: taxifolin, aromadedrine, chrysandroside A, chrysandroside B, xeractinol, astilbin and fustin. The flavonoid may be a flavone (2-phenylchromen-4-one derivative). Flavones include: apigenin, luteolin, tangeritin, chrysin, baicalein, scutellarein, wogonin, synthetic flavones: diosmin and flavoxate. The flavonoid may be a flavonol (3-hydroxy-2-phenylchromen-4-one derivative). Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, azaleatin, fisetin, galangin, gossypetin, kaempferide, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, natsudaidain, pachypodol, quercetin, rhamnazine, rhamnetin, azalein, hyperoside, isoquercitin, kaempferitrin, myricitrin, quercitrin, robinin, rutin, spiraeoside, xanthorhamnine, amurensin, icariin and troxerutin. The flavonoid may be a flavan-3-ol (2-phenyl-3,4-dihydro-2H-chromen-3-ol derivatives). Flavan-3-ols include: catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epiafzelechin, fisetinidol, guibourtinidol, mesquitol and robinetinidol. The flavonoid may be a flavan-4-ol (derived from 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: apiforol and luteoforol. The flavonoid may be an isoflavone (3-phenylchromen-4-one derivative). Isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, biochanin A, formononetin, and the daidzein metabolite equol.

The antioxidant may be an anthocyanidin (derived from the 2-phenylchromenylium cation). Anthocyanidins include: aurantinidin, cyanidin, delphinidin, europinidin, luteolinidin, pelargonidin, malvidin, peonidin, petunidin, rosinidin and xanthone.

The antioxidant may be a dihydrochalcone (derived from 1,3-diphenyl-1-propanone). Dihydrochalcones include: phloretin, phloretin phloridzin dihydrochalcone, aspalathin, naringin dihydrochalcone, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, and nothofagin. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, dihydrochalcones can exert an antioxidant effect by reducing reactive free radicals, such as reactive oxygen and reactive nitrogen species.

The antioxidant may be an anthocyanin. Anthocyanins and their derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins encompass a class of flavonoid compounds that are natural, water-soluble compounds responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains, and flowers. Additionally, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Collagenase inhibition facilitates the prevention and reduction of wrinkles, increased skin elasticity, etc., which are caused by a reduction in skin collagen. Anthocyanins can be obtained from any part of various plant sources, such as the fruit, flower, stem, flowers, root, bark or seeds. Those skilled in the art will understand that certain parts of the plant may contain higher natural levels of anthocyanins, and, therefore, these parts are used to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some cases, antioxidants may include one or more betacyanins. Betacyanins, like anthocyanins, can be obtained from natural sources and are antioxidants.

The antioxidant may be a phenylpropanoid (cinnamic acid derivatives). Phenylpropanoids include: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its pharmacore antioxidant 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenome), 5-hydroxyferulic acid, sinapic acid, coumaryl alcohol, coniferyl alcohol, sinapyl alcohol, eugenol, chavicol, safrole, P-coumaric acid and sinapinic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, phenylpropanoids can neutralize free radicals.

The antioxidant may be a chalcone (1,3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one derivative). Chalcones include: butein, okanin, carthamine, marein, sophoradine, xanthohumol, flavokavain A, flavokavain B, flavokavain C and synthetic safalcone.

The antioxidant may be a curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, desmethoxycurcumin, bis-desmethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids. Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids can be derived from rhizomes of Curcuma longa. Tetrahydrocurcumin, a metabolite of curcumin, has been shown to be a more powerful and stable antioxidant compared to curcumin.

The antioxidant may be a tannin. Tannins include: tannin, terflavin B, glucogallin, D-gallic acid and quercitannic acid.

The antioxidant may be a stilbenoid. Stilbenoids include: Resveratrol, pterostilbene and piceatannol. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4'-trihydroxystilbene, 3,4,3',5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (piceatannol), 2,3',4,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (oxyresveratrol), 4,4'-dihydroxystilbene, and the alpha and beta glucoside, galactoside and mannoside derivatives thereof.

The antioxidant may be a coumarin (2H-chromen-2-one derivatives). Coumarins include: 4-hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, esculetin, herniarin, auraptene and dicoumarol.

The antioxidant may be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include: beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein and idebenone. Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignan can also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly increase the activity of vitamin E.

The antioxidant can be: xanthone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2,6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2,4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, alpha-lipoic acid, ellagic acid, chicoric acid, chlorogenic acid, rosmarinic acid, salicylic acid, acetylcysteine, S-allyl cysteine, barbigerone, chebulagic acid, edaravone, ethoxyquin, glutathione, hydroxytyrosol, idebenone, melatonin, N-acetylserotonin, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, oleocanthal, oleuropein, paradol, piceatannol, probucol, propyl gallate, protocatechuic acid, pyritinol, rutin, secoisolariciresinol diglucoside, sesamin , sesamol, silibinin, silymarin, theaflavin, theaflavin digallate, thymoquinone, trolox, tyrosol, polyunsaturated fatty acids and sulfur-based antioxidants such as methionine or lipoic acid .

Active agents for the skin

Non-limiting examples of skin active agents include madecassoside, sodium hyaluronate, retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 chloride (or pyridoxine), selenium, samphire. -mixtures of cinnamon, tea and octanoylglycine extracts such as--Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic--the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine marketed in particular by Seppic under the brand name Sepicontrol A5--salts zinc such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; derivatives in particular of copper and copper pidolate such as Cuivridone Solabia--plant extracts of Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha pipenta Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed by example by Maruzen--extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria), such as that sold under the name Sebonormine by Silab--extracts of the algae Laminaria saccharina, such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by Biotechmarine- -extracts of burnet root mixtures (Sanguisorba officinalis/Poterium officinale), ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by Solabia--the extracts of flax seeds such as that sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer--phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by Ichimaru Pharcos--oil extract mixtures argan, Serenoa serrulata (cabbage) and sesame seeds such as that sold under the name Regu SEB by Pentapharm--blends of extracts of willowherb, Terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae ), such as that sold under the name Seborilys Green Tech;--extracts of Pygeum afrianum such as that sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by Euromed--extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International, and those sold by the Euromed company--mixtures of plantain extracts, Berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate such as that sold under the name Seboclear Rahn--clove extract such as that sold under the name Clove extract powder by Maruzen--argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl Laboratories Serobiologique; --lactic protein filtrates, such as that sold under the name Normaseb by Sederma--extracts of kelp algae, such as that sold under the name Laminarghane by Biotechmarine--oligosaccharides from Laminaria digitata algae, such as that sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by the Codif company--sugar cane extracts such as that sold under the name Policosanol by the Sabinsa company, sulfonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by Ichthyol- - extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol - sebacic acid, in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma--glucomannans extracted from konjac tuber and modified with alkylsulfonate chains such as that sold under the name Biopol Beta by Arch Chemical--extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by Bioland--extracts of cinchona succirubra bark such as that sold under the name Red Bark HS by Alban Muller--extracts of Quillaja saponaria such as that sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller--glycine grafted onto an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by SEPPIC--the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in the form of a gel under the name AC.Net by Sederma; --phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid--tri citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM ECI by Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM. ECL by Sasol--10-hydroxydecanoic acid, including mixtures of hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid and 1,10-decandiol such as that sold as Acnacidol BG by Vincience and mixtures thereof.

Depigmentation agents

Non-limiting examples of depigmentation agents include alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and derivatives thereof, tranexamic acid and derivatives thereof, gentisic acid, homogentisic acid, gentisate or methyl homogentisate, dioic acid, D panthetein calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, certain compounds derived from plants such as chamomile, bearberry, asphodelaceae (vera, ferox, bardensis), blackberry, skullcap, kiwi (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a root extract of Paeonia suffruticosa, such as that sold by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Liquid Botanpi Be, an extract of brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) such as an extract of molasses marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Liquid Molasses, without this list is exhaustive. Specific depigmentation agents include alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, D panthetein calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, a kiwi (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a root extract of Paeonia suffruticosa, such as that sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

Anti-wrinkle agent

The term "anti-wrinkle agent" refers to a natural or synthetic compound that produces a biological effect, such as the synthesis and/or increased activity of certain enzymes, when brought into contact with an area of wrinkled skin, this has for the effect of reducing the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines. Non-limiting examples of anti-wrinkle agents include: desquamation agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or preventing their degradation, agents for stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes, or to stimulate agents reducing the differentiation of keratinocytes; muscle relaxants and/or dermo-relaxants, anti-free radical agents and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives and retinoids other than retinol (as noted above, such as retinol palmitate), ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as ascorbyl phosphated magnesium and ascorbyl glucoside; nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and precursors thereof such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives as described in particular in EP-1345919, in particular C-beta -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane as described in particular in EP-1345919, plant extracts including marine fennel and olive leaf extracts, as well as a plant and hydrolysates thereof these such as rice protein hydrolysates or soy proteins; algal extracts and in particular kelp extracts, bacterial extracts, sapogenins such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants, in particular hairy yam, comprising: α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and acyl derivatives thereof, in particular {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl)-amino]-3-methyl} acid -acetic and lipopeptides marketed by the company under the brand names SEDERMA Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene, manganese salts and magnesium salts, in particular gluconates, and mixtures thereof. In at least one case, the skin tightening composition includes adenosine derivatives, such as non-phosphated adenosine derivatives, particularly such as 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-adenosine isopropylidene; toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside and 6-chloropurine riboside. Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as phenylisopropyl adenosine (“PIA”), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro- N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl)phenethyl-amino-5'-N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and metrifudil.

Various ingredients may optionally be included in the cosmetic composition and where applicable, the quantity will vary. However, in various embodiments the total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients is from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In additional embodiments, the total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients is about 0.01 to about 8 weight percent, about 0.01 to about 5 weight percent, about 0.01 to about 5 weight percent, about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0, 1 to about 3% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As already noted, skin active agents may be included as one or more of the miscellaneous ingredients. With respect to the total amount of skin active agents in the cosmetic compositions, if applicable, the total amount of skin active agents may be from more than zero to about 9% by weight, more than zero to about 8% by weight, from more than zero to about 7% by weight, from more than zero to about 6% by weight, from more than zero to about 5% by weight, from more than zero to about 4% by weight , from more than zero to about 3% by weight, from more than zero to about 2% by weight; from about 10 ppm to about 10 wt% (100,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 5 wt% (50,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 2.5 wt% (25,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 1 wt% (10,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.5 wt% (5000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.3% by weight (3000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.2 wt% (2000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.1 wt% (1000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to 500 ppm; from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 2.5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 1 % by weight, from about 0.1 to about 0.5% by weight; from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 6% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 4% by weight, from about 1 to about 3% by weight; from about 2 to about 10% by weight, from about 2 to about 8% by weight, from about 2 to about 6% by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight, from about 2 to about 4% by weight; from about 3 to about 10% by weight, from about 3 to about 8% by weight, from about 3 to about 6% by weight, from about 3 to about 5% by weight; from about 4 to about 10% by weight, from about 4 to about 8% by weight, or from about 4 to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

pH

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions have a pH of about 4 to about 8. In additional embodiments, the pH of the cosmetic compositions is from about 4.5 to about 8, from about 5 to about 8, d 'about 5.5 to about 8, about 4 to about 7.5, about 4 to about 7, about 4.5 to about 8, about 4.5 to about 7.5, d 'about 4.5 to about 7, about 5 to about 8, about 5 to about 7.5, or about 5 to about 7. In various embodiments, the pH of the cosmetic compositions does not change of more than ± 1 pH unit, ± 0.5 pH unit, ± 0.3 pH unit or ± 0.2 pH unit, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

Stability

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are stable. For example, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase separate or form visible particles for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase separate or form visible particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw tests include placing the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C.

In various embodiments, the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5%, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

Viscosity

In general, the cosmetic compositions herein have a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. However, the cosmetic compositions may have a viscosity of approximately 10,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s. s, or from about 20,000 to about 120,000 Pa.s at 25 °C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25 °C.

Viscosity measurements can be made, for example, using a Brookfield viscometer/rheometer using a T-bar spindle at a speed of 5, 10, 15 and/or 20 rpm. An RVDV-II+Pro viscometer with RheocalcT software can be used for automatic instrument control and data acquisition. The test temperature was maintained at 25°C using a Brookfield TC-502P programmable refrigerated bath. From its original container, a sample is transferred to a 120 ml glass carboy and then tested.

Processes

The present disclosure relates to methods of treating skin. The methods include applying a cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure, optionally allowing the cosmetic composition to remain on the skin for a period of time. Cosmetic compositions are typically applied directly to the skin by hand or using a wipe. The skin can optionally be washed or rinsed before application. The skin treatment process can be carried out once a day or can be carried out several times. For example, the skin treatment method can be carried out once a day, twice a day, once a week, twice a week for an extended period of time, for example, for about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 months up to 1 year or longer. In one embodiment, the methods reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, enhance hyaluronic acid production via stimulation of glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis, thereby softening the stratum corneum to relieve cumulative stress on the epidermis and dermis, etc. When tert-butylcyclohexanol is included in the compositions, the methods further treat skin irritation, soothe the skin, and/or reduce or alleviate tingling, burning, and tightness.

The present disclosure also relates to methods of stabilizing a cosmetic composition containing high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, and optionally high amounts of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, where appropriate. These methods include the incorporation of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, and optionally 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, into the compositions of the present disclosure. The quantities of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol which may be incorporated are the quantities indicated throughout the present disclosure.

Kits

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be provided in a kit, for example, a kit comprising an individually contained cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure and one or more additional separately contained cosmetic compositions. In one embodiment, the one or more separately contained compositions may be an additional composition according to the present disclosure or may be a different composition. The cosmetic compositions may be contained separately in different cartridges, which are included in a dispensing apparatus/device. In other words, the kit may be a dispensing apparatus/device comprising a plurality of cartridges in which the compositions are contained. The kit (or apparatus/device) may optionally dispense the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure and separately dispense the one or more separately contained compositions. In various embodiments, the compositions may be dispensed individually or simultaneously, and may optionally be mixed (or unmixed) with each other before being dispensed. In one embodiment, the various compositions are not mixed with each other before being distributed. Useful delivery systems, cartridges and apparatus/devices are disclosed in U.S. Patent Nos. 9,968,177 and 9,808,071; U.S. Patent Application Publication Nos. 2021/0236390, 2021/0235849 and 2021/0236863; and in U.S. Series No. 17/162,555, all of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Embodiments

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises or consists of:

(a) about 10 to about 40% by weight, preferably about 10 to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 12 to about 18% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) about 50 to about 85 weight percent, preferably about 55 to about 80 weight percent, more preferably about 55 to about 75 weight percent water;

(c) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 4, more preferably about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers selected from esters of glyceryl having an HLB of about 3 to about 8, for example, glyceryl esters selected from glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, and a mixture thereof, preferably one or more glyceryl esters selected from glyceryl stearate, ricinoleate glyceryl, and a mixture thereof;

(d) about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 0.1 to about 4, more preferably about 0.2 to about 3 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB d about 16 to about 18, preferably one or more ethoxylated emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters, and a mixture thereof, preferably one or more ethoxylated fatty acids;

(e) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of approximately 9 to approximately 15, for example, chosen from alkyl polyglucosides (cetearyl glucoside), polyglycerol-based emulsifiers (polygyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate), sorbitan fatty esters (polysorbate 60), esters or sugar ethers, sugar-based esters or ethers, polyol fatty esters or ethers, glyceryl fatty esters or ethers, ethoxylates thereof, or mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from sugar esters or ethers and sugar-based esters or ethers;

(f) about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, preferably selected from fatty alcohols having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(g) about 5 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 5 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 6 to about 12% by weight of one or more fatty compounds, for example, selected from esters fatty (e.g. isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, plant oil and/or or vegetable (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), and a mixture thereof;

(h) one or more thickening polymers, preferably one or more taurate copolymers, in particular, one or more taurate copolymers chosen from an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a sodium acrylate copolymer hydroxyethyl/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate, an ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium taurate copolymer sodium acryloyldimethyl, and a mixture thereof, in which the quantity of one or more thickening polymers can optionally be from about 1 to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 3% by weight;

(i) optionally, 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, wherein, where appropriate, it is preferably in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 4 % by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to about 3% by weight;

(j) optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents chosen from glycerin, alcohols (for example, C1-30, C1-15, C1-10 or C1-4), organic solvents, polyols (polyhydric alcohols, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, t-butyl alcohol, etc.), glycols (for example, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol , etc.), and a mixture thereof, preferably one or more monoalcohols chosen from ethanol, isopropanol and t-butyl alcohol, and one or more glycols chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol, wherein, where appropriate, the one or more water-soluble solvents comprise from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight , more preferably from about 1 to about 15% by weight of the cosmetic composition;

(k) optionally, one or more silicones, for example, dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone and amodimethicone, preferably dimethicone, wherein, the where appropriate, the one or more silicones may be in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight;

(l) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from various emulsifiers/surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusting agents, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, dyes, matting agents, active agents for additional skin, depigmentation agents, anti-wrinkle agents, wherein, where appropriate, the one or more miscellaneous ingredients comprise from about 0.01 to about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight of the cosmetic composition

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The composition preferably has a pH of about 4 to about 8, preferably about 5 to about 8, more preferably about 4.5 to about 7.5.

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are stable. For example, in one embodiment the cosmetic compositions do not visually separate into phases or form visible particles for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37 °C and/or 45°C.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase separate or form visible particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw tests include placement of the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C.

In one embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5%, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition preferably has a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. However, the cosmetic compositions may have a viscosity of approximately 10,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s. s, or from about 20,000 to about 120,000 Pa.s at 25 °C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25 °C.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises or consists of:

(a) about 10 to about 40% by weight, preferably about 10 to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 12 to about 18% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(b) about 50 to about 85 weight percent, preferably about 55 to about 80 weight percent, more preferably about 55 to about 75 weight percent water;

(c) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 4, more preferably about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers selected from esters glyceryl having an HLB of about 3 to about 8, in particular chosen from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and a mixture thereof, preferably glyceryl stearate;

(d) about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 0.1 to about 4, more preferably about 0.2 to about 3 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB d about 16 to about 18 selected from ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters, and a mixture thereof, preferably one or more ethoxylated fatty acids;

(e) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of approximately 9 to approximately 15, for example, chosen from alkyl polyglucosides (cetearyl glucoside), polyglycerol-based emulsifiers (polygyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate), sorbitan fatty esters (polysorbate 60), esters or sugar ethers, sugar-based esters or ethers, polyol fatty esters or ethers, glyceryl fatty esters or ethers, ethoxylates thereof, or mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from sugar esters or ethers and sugar-based esters or ethers;

(f) about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms , preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(g) about 5 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 5 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 6 to about 12% by weight of one or more fatty compounds, for example, selected from esters fatty (e.g. isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, plant oil and/or or vegetable (e.g., soybean oil), hydrocarbon-based oils (e.g., isohexadecane), and a mixture thereof;

(h) from about 1 to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 3% by weight of one or more taurate copolymers, in particular, one or more taurate copolymers chosen from an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, an acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer ammonium/VP, a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof, preferably selected from a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, and a mixture thereof;

(i) optionally, 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, wherein, where appropriate, it is preferably in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 4 % by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to about 3% by weight;

(j) from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents selected from one or more monoalcohols (e.g., ethanol, isopropanol, and t-butyl alcohol), one or more glycols (e.g., propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol), and a mixture thereof this ;

(k) about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more silicones, e.g. dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone and amodimethicone, preferably dimethicone;

(l) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from various emulsifiers/surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusting agents, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, dyes, matting agents, active agents for additional skin, depigmentation agents, anti-wrinkle agents, wherein, where appropriate, the one or more miscellaneous ingredients comprise from about 0.01 to about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight of the cosmetic composition

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The composition preferably has a pH of about 4 to about 8, preferably about 5 to about 8, more preferably about 4.5 to about 7.5.

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are stable. For example, in one embodiment the cosmetic compositions do not visually separate into phases or form visible particles for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37 °C and/or 45°C.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase separate or form visible particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw tests include placement of the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C.

In one embodiment, the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5%, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition preferably has a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. However, the cosmetic compositions may have a viscosity of approximately 10,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s. s, or from about 20,000 to about 120,000 Pa.s at 25 °C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25 °C.

EXAMPLES

Since various changes may be made in the methods described above without departing from the scope of the invention, it is intended that the entire contents of the above description and the examples given below should be interpreted in an illustrative and not limiting sense.

The following Examples are intended to be non-restrictive and explanatory only. The amounts of ingredients in the compositions/formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Example 1 (Compositions of the invention)

HAS B VS D (has) Active ingredient HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL 15 15 15 15 (b) Water WATER 63.5 63.9 63.5 63.9 (vs) Glyceryl ester GLYCERYL STEARATE
(HLB 3.8 ± 1) 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 (d) High HLB emulsifier PEG-40 STEARATE
(HLB 17.5) 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 (e) Intermediate HLB emulsifier POLYGLYCERYL-3 METHYLGLUCOSE DISTEARATE
(HLB-12) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(HLB 11 ± 1) 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 POLYSORBATE 60
(HLB 14.9 ± 1) 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 (f) Fatty alcohol CETYL ALCOHOL 0.3 0.3 0.8 0.8 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 0.8 0.8 0.3 0.3 (g) Fatty compound SQUALANE, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE AND SOYBEAN OIL 9 9 9 9 (h) Polymers
thickeners HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 C10-30 POLY ALKYL ACRYLATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (i) Active ingredient 4-T-BUTYLCYCLOHEXANOL 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 (j) Water soluble solvent PROPYLENE GLYCOL, PENTYLENE GLYCOL AND T-BUTYL ALCOHOL 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 (k) Silicone DIMETHICONE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 ((L) Emulsifiers
miscellaneous SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE
(HLB 4.7) 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 HYDROGENATED LECITHIN 0.3 0.3 Other miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants, salts, preservatives, pH adjusting agents, fragrances, colorants, chelants, extracts, fillers, absorbents, additional skin active ingredients, etc. ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 Stability Yes Yes Yes Yes

Example 2 (Comparative compositions)

C-1 C-2 C-3 (has) Active ingredient HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL 15 15 15 (b) Water WATER 69.5 61.5 55.8 (vs) Glyceryl ester GLYCERYL STEARATE (HLB = 3.8) 1.6 (d) High HLB STEARETH-100 (HLB = 18.8) 0.4 (e) Emulsifiers
with intermediate HLB ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE (HLB ~10) ALKYL (EN C12-20) GLUCOSIDE (HLB = 10.3) 0.4 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE (HLB = 11) 0.1 POLYSORBATE 80 (HLB = 15) 0.2 POLYSORBATE 60 (HLB = 14.9) 0.04 (f) Fatty alcohols ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL, BEHENYL ALCOHOL, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, CETYL ALCOHOL AND/OR C14-22 ALCOHOLS 3.2 1.1 4.1 (g) Fatty compounds SQUALANE. SOYBEAN OIL, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE, ISOHEXADECAN, DICAPRYLYL ETHER AND/OR CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 2 9.5 4 (h) Thickening polymers ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER 1 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER 0.7 AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER 1.2 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 1.3 XANTHAN GUM 0.3 CROSS-LINKED POLYACRYLATE COPOLYMER-6 0.8 ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE 1 1 (i) Active ingredient 4-T-BUTYLCYCLOHEXANOL 1.1 1.1 1.1 (j) Water soluble solvent T-BUTYL ALCOHOL, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, PENTYLENE GLYCOL AND/OR PROPYLENE GLYCOL 4.5 4.2 13.5 (k) Silicone DIMETHICONE 0.5 (L) Emulsifiers
miscellaneous SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE (HLB = 4.7) 0.04 0.3 SORBITAN OLEATE (HLB = 4.3) 0.1 DISODIUM ETHYLENE DICOCAMIDE DISULFATE PEG-15 0.5 Other miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants, salts, preservatives, pH adjusting agents, fragrances, colorants, chelants, extracts, fillers, absorbents, and/or additional active ingredients for the skin, etc. ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 Stability NO NO NO

Example 3

The compositions of Example 1 and Example 2 were subjected to stability studies and assessed visually for phase separation and examined microscopically for particle formation. The compositions were analyzed during the initial manufacture of the composition (T ₀ ). The compositions were analyzed again after 10 days of freezing-thawing tests. For freeze-thaw tests, the compositions were placed in a stability chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals. For 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at -20°C. For the next 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at 25°C. The cycle was repeated 10 times (for 10 days). Separately, the compositions of Example 1 were evaluated after 4 weeks (1 month) in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C and again after 8 weeks (2 months). at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C, and 45°C and assessed visually for phase separation and examined microscopically for particle formation.

The compositions of the invention were judged to be stable (“O”) (yes) since they did not visually separate into phases and did not form particles. The Comparative Compositions (C-1 to C-3) were judged to be non-stable (“N”) (no) since they separated into phases and/or formed particles. The data show the importance of one or more nonionic emulsifiers selected from glyceryl esters having HLB of about 3 to about 8 (c) and the importance of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 (d). If one of these types of emulsifiers is not included, the resulting composition lacks stability, i.e., exhibits phase separation and particle formation, as shown by the data for Comparative Compositions (C- 1, C-2 and C-3).

The preceding description illustrates and describes the invention. The disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments but it is understood that the invention may be used in various other combinations, modifications and environments and may be subject to changes or modifications in the scope of the concepts of the invention as expressed herein, in relation to the above teachings and/or skills or knowledge of the related art. The embodiments described above are further intended to explain the best modes known to applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to use the disclosure in such embodiments, or other embodiments, and with the various modifications required by particular applications or uses thereof. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein.

DEFINITIONS

As used herein, a "gel emulsion" is also referred to in the art as an "emulsion gel." A gel emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion, which is a composite structure of oil droplets inside a gel matrix. They can be classified into emulsion-filled gels and particulate emulsion gels.

The term "HLB" refers to hydrophilic-lipophilic balance, which is a measure of the degree to which an emulsifier is hydrophilic or lipophilic, determined by calculating values for different regions of the molecule, as described by Griffin, William C. , “Classification of Surface-Active Agents by ‘HLB’”, Journal of the Society of Cosm e tic Chemists , 1 (5): 311–26 (1949) and Griffin, William C. , “Calculation of HLB Values of Non-ionic Surfactants,” Journal of the Society of Cosm etic Chemists , 5 (4): 249–56 (1954), which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

“Sugar ester” as used herein means “carbohydrate alcohol fatty acid ester” or “saccharic acid fatty alcohol ester” and “sugar ether” as used herein means “sugar ether” fatty alcohol of carbohydrate alcohol”.

As used herein, the terms “comprising”, “having” and “including” (or “understand”, “have” and “include”) are used in their open, non-limiting sense. The term “essentially consisting of” limits the scope of a claim to specified materials or steps and those which do not affect the basic and novel features of the claimed invention.

The terms “un”, “une”, “le” and “la” are understood to include the plural as well as the singular.

Thus, the term “a mixture thereof” also refers to “mixtures thereof”. Throughout the disclosure, if the term "a mixture thereof" is used, after a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, or mixtures thereof. The term "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E and F may be included). Instead, it states that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the expression "one or more elements chosen from A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F" .

Likewise, the term “a salt thereof” also includes “salts thereof”. Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof", it indicates that a or more of A, B, C, D and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included.

Salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is non-limiting. Suitable counterions for the components described herein are known in the art.

The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

The term “plurality” means “more than one” or “two or more.”

An “alkyl radical” is a group based on saturated hydrocarbon, linear or branched, in particular C ₁ -C ₈ , more particularly C ₁ -C ₆ , preferably C ₁ -C ₄ , such as an methyl, ethyl, isopropyl and tert-butyl;

An “alkoxy radical” is an alkyl-oxy in which the alkyl is as described above;

An “alkenyl radical” is a hydrocarbon-based group, linear or branched unsaturated, in particular in C ₂ -C ₈ , more particularly in C ₂ -C ₆ , preferably in C ₂ -C ₄ , such as an ethylenyl, propylenyl;

An “alkylene radical” is a group based on a divalent saturated hydrocarbon, linear or branched, in C ₁ -C ₈ , in particular in C ₁ -C ₆ , preferably in C ₁ -C ₄ , such as methylene , ethylene or propylene.

Some of the various categories of components identified for cosmetic compositions may overlap. In cases where overlap may exist and the composition/product includes two overlapping components (or more than two overlapping components), an overlapping component does not represent more than one component. As an example, a fatty acid can be considered both a “non-triglyceride, non-aromatic fatty emollient” and a “surfactant/emulsifier”. If a particular composition/product includes both a non-triglyceride, non-aromatic fatty emollient component and a surfactant/emulsifier component, a single type of fatty acid may serve solely as a non-triglyceride, non-aromatic fatty emollient or surfactant/emulsifier (a single fatty acid does not serve as both a non-triglyceride, non-aromatic fatty emollient component and a surfactant/emulsifier component).

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention unless otherwise noted.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and suitable for combination. For example, any value or point described here that falls within a range described here may serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc. Additionally, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within, and combination of subranges between, the given ranges. So, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes points 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, from 1 to 4, etc. ; and points 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 include ranges and subranges 1 to 5, 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4 , etc.

Except in operational examples, or if otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions may be modified by the term "approximately", whether expressly stated or not.

Furthermore, all numbers are intended to represent exact values as additional embodiments, whether or not modified by the term "approximately". For example, “an amount of approximately 1%” can be modified to refer to exactly 1%. As an additional example, "an amount of 1%" can be modified to refer to "approximately 1%." Unless otherwise stated, the term “approximately” is understood to encompass a range of +/- 10% of the number stated. However, in some embodiments, the term may be defined to encompass narrower ranges, for example, +/- 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9% and 10% of the number indicated.

The terms “surfactants” and “emulsifiers” include salts of surfactants and emulsifiers even if not explicitly stated. That is, whenever the disclosure refers to a surfactant or emulsifier, it is intended that salts are also encompassed to the extent that such salts exist, even though the specification may not specifically refer to a salt ( or may not refer to a salt in each occurrence of the disclosure), for example, by using a phrase such as "a salt thereof" or "salts thereof". Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants and emulsifiers. However, additional cations such as ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, can also form surfactant salts.

The term "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein indicates that the specific material may be present in small quantities that do not materially affect the basic and novel features of the claimed invention. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the composition (provided that less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the basic and new characteristics of the claimed invention). Likewise, a composition "substantially free" or "substantially free" from a listed material may include less than 1.5% by weight, less than 1% by weight, less than 0.5% by weight, less than 0, 1% by weight, less than 0.05% by weight, or less than 0.01% by weight, or zero quantity of the specified material. The term "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition but may still be present in a raw material that is included in the composition.

Furthermore, any components that are positively stated in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "free", "essentially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components. which are positively stated in this disclosure. For example, silicones may optionally be included in cosmetic compositions but in certain cases the compositions may be free or essentially free of silicones. Silicones are synthetic polymers made up of repeating units of siloxane, silicon and elemental oxygen, combined with other elements, most commonly carbon and hydrogen. Thus, silicones are also called polysiloxanes. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions herein may be free or essentially free of dimethicones, amodimethicones, dimethiconols, cyclosiloxanes, siloxanes, etc.

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are hereby incorporated by reference, and for all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated as being incorporated by reference. In the event of any inconsistency between this disclosure and any publication or patent application incorporated herein by reference, this disclosure takes precedence.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) about 10 to about 40 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;
(b) water;
(c) about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent nonionic emulsifier selected from glyceryl esters having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of about 3 to about 8;
(d) about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18;
(e) about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 9 to about 15;
(f) about 1 to about 10% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols;
(g) about 5 to about 20% by weight of one or more fatty compounds;
(h) one or more thickening polymers; And
wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Composition according to claim 1, in which the one or more glyceryl esters are chosen from glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl laurate, or a mixture thereof. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising:
(i) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol. Composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of about 16 to about 18 comprise one or more ethoxylated emulsifiers selected from ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters, and mixtures of these. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the one or more nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of approximately 9 to approximately 15 are chosen from alkyl polyglucosides (cetearyl glucoside), emulsifiers based on polyglycerol (polygyceryl distearate). 3 methylglucose), sorbitan fatty esters (polysorbate 60), fatty sugar esters, polyol fatty esters, glyceryl fatty esters, ethoxylates thereof, or a mixture thereof. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the one or more thickening polymers include one or more taurate copolymers. Composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition does not visually phase separate or form particles for at least 2 weeks when stored at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45 °C; and/or the composition does not visually phase separate or form particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw tests include placing the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C. A composition according to any preceding claim having a viscosity of about 20,000 to about 80,000 cPa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. Kit comprising the cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims and one or more additional skin treatment compositions, wherein the cosmetic composition and each of the one or more skin treatment compositions are contained separately. Method of treating the skin comprising the application of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the skin.