FR3121600A1 - SKIN PERFECTION COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS OF USE - Google Patents

Abstract

SKIN PERFECTION COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS OF USE The invention relates to skin firming compositions for application to the skin for instant and dramatic improvement in the appearance of the skin. Skin firming compositions typically include an aqueous phase comprising about 5 to about 40% by weight water, one or more water-dispersible pigments; and an oily phase comprising at least 5% by weight of one or more hydrophobic film-forming polymers, from about 1 to about 40% by weight of one or more thickening agents, from about 30 to about 85% by weight of one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils. Figure for abstract: NONE

Description

SKIN PERFECTION COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS OF USE

FIELD OF DISCLOSURE

The present disclosure relates to skin firming compositions for application to the skin to provide instant and dramatic improvement in the appearance of the skin, for example, by reducing the appearance of wrinkles, bags under the eyes, pores and skin imperfections such as scars, dark spots (and uneven skin tone), dark circles and roughness.

CONTEXT

Skin produces less collagen and elastin as it ages. For example, after the age of twenty, a person (human) produces about 1% less collagen in the skin each year. As a result, the skin becomes thinner and more fragile. Inevitably, wrinkles, crow's feet, age spots, eye bags, and the like begin to form.

Consumers often want to improve the appearance of these age-related skin imperfections, preferably with instant results. There are many consumer products and procedures designed to mask and reduce wrinkles. Some products and procedures are simple and inexpensive, for example the application of make-up, in particular a primer or a colored foundation, to cover the skin (and thus cover and/or fill in wrinkles and give a smoother appearance). Much more expensive and drastic procedures, such as surgical facelifts and Botox® injections, are also used to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. However, many consumers cannot afford, or do not wish to, undergo such drastic cosmetic procedures. There are a number of lotions and creams that are formulated to moisturize the skin and make it more supple, thereby reducing the appearance of wrinkles. Some of these products contain active ingredients, for example niacinamide, which help repair and rejuvenate the skin over time. Unfortunately, all of these products and procedures have drawbacks.

Makeup products are often visible, provide minimal textural benefits, and do not have a lasting effect on the skin in the long run. After makeup removal, the skin looks the same as before makeup application. Common skincare products can have chronic, acute, or both effects on the skin. Hydration and optical effects are common acute benefits, but these benefits quickly fade over time.

Attempts have been made to develop new categories of products to improve the appearance of the skin without the drawbacks of existing products and procedures. One of these product families can be broadly categorized as “adhesive and contractile films”. Film formers are chemical compositions which, when applied to the skin, leave a flexible, cohesive and continuous coverage. A selected group of films are also adhesive to the skin and contractile.

DISCLOSURE SUMMARY

The present disclosure relates to skin firming compositions which instantly and dramatically improve the appearance of the skin by filling it and/or tightening it, and/or compressing it, and/or blurring and optimally covering facial skin imperfections such as fine lines and deep wrinkles, eye bags, pores, depressed scars such as acne scars, pimples, dark circles and others imperfections of skin color, while ensuring good hold and comfort throughout the day.

Skin tightening compositions have a unique composition that surprisingly does not compromise the performance of the resulting film, including but not limited to mechanical strength, elasticity, appearance compared to an untinted formula .

Skin firming compositions according to one aspect of the disclosure typically include

A. an aqueous phase comprising:

To. from about 5 to about 40% by weight water;

b. at least one or more water-dispersible pigments;

B. an oily phase comprising:

To. at least 5% by weight of one or more hydrophobic film-forming polymers;

b. from about 1 to about 40% by weight of one or more thickening agents;

vs. from about 30 to about 85% by weight of one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils; And

wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin firming composition.

The composition typically allows - to tighten and conceal the skin by smoothing wrinkles, bags under the eyes, to hide dark circles but also to cover imperfections (pimples) when applied to the skin.

In one or more embodiments, the composition may include one or more oil-dispersible pigments. In some embodiments, the one or more oil-dispersible pigments are present in an amount of from about 1 to about 20% of the total weight of the skin firming composition.

In certain embodiments, the one or more water-dispersible pigments and the one or more oil-dispersible pigments may be present at from about 1 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition of firming of the skin. In some embodiments, the one or more water-dispersible pigments and the one or more oil-dispersible pigments may be present at about 1-10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. skin firming.

In one or more embodiments, the one or more water-dispersible pigments are present at about 1-20% by weight based on the total weight of the skin firming composition. In some embodiments, the one or more water-dispersible pigments are present at about 1-15% by weight based on the total weight of the skin firming composition. In one embodiment, the one or more water-dispersible pigments are present at about 1-10% by weight based on the total weight of the skin firming composition.

In some embodiments, the one or more water-dispersible pigments are selected from hydrophilic treated pigments (= IRON OXIDES/TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) PHYTIC ACID). In one or more embodiments, the one or more water-dispersible pigments are chosen from hydrophilic pigments coated with silica (= IRON OXIDES/TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) SILICA), hydrophilic pigments coated with PEG silane, sodium glycerophosphate coated hydrophilic pigments, algin coated hydrophilic pigments and a combination thereof.

In some embodiments, the one or more oil-dispersible pigments are selected from untreated iron oxides/titanium dioxide, iron oxides/titanium dioxide (and) isopropyl-titanium triisostearate, alumina (and) iron oxides/titanium dioxide (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) dimethyl silicate, mica (and) iron oxides/titanium dioxide, iron oxides/titanium dioxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, and a combination thereof.

In certain embodiments, the one or more hydrophobic film-forming polymers are chosen from trimethylsiloxysilicate, acrylates/isobornyl acrylate copolymer, acrylic acid/isobutyl acrylate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer, acrylates/stearyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/ trimethyl polysiloxymethacrylate, C _30-45 alkyldimethylsilylpolypropylsilsequixane, trimethylsilsesquixane, polypropylsilsesquixane, acrylates/dimethicone copolymer, octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer, acrylates/t-butylacrylamide copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymer /vinyl acetate, PVP triacontanyl copolymer, acrylates/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, norbornene/tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylnorbornene copolymer, styrene/butadiene copolymer and a combination thereof.

In certain embodiments, the one or more thickening agents are selected from polyamide-8, styrene-ethylene/propylene copolymer, nylon-611/dimethicone cross-linked polymer, VP/EICOSENE copolymer, silicone elastomer, emulsifying silicone elastomers, fumed silicas , hydrophobic modified silica, silica silylate, zeolite, natural clay, synthetic clay, kaolin, hectorite, organically modified hectorite, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (and) disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate, activated clay, disteardimonium hectorite, hectorite stearalkonium, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite, benzalkonium bentonite, clays and a combination thereof.

The skin firming composition can include one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms. In some cases, the one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils are selected from isoparaffin, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane, undecane, tridecane, dodecane and a combination thereof.

Additionally, or alternatively, the skin firming composition can include a nonionic surfactant.

Additionally, or alternatively, the skin firming composition can include a non-volatile fatty compound.

Additionally, or alternatively, the skin firming composition may include a hydrophilic film forming agent.

Additionally, or alternatively, the skin firming composition may include one or more active compounds.

According to another aspect of the disclosure, skin firming compositions may include:

A. an aqueous phase comprising:

To. from about 5 to about 40% by weight water;

b. from about 1 to about 20% by weight of one or more water-dispersible pigments;

B. an oily phase comprising:

To. from about 5 to about 45% by weight of one or more hydrophobic film-forming polymers;

b. from about 1 to about 40% by weight of one or more thickening agents;

vs. from about 30 to about 85% by weight of one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils;

d. from about 0 to about 20% by weight of one or more oil-dispersible pigments; And

wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin firming composition.

Methods for improving the appearance of the skin according to another aspect of the disclosure typically include applying a skin firming composition of the disclosure to the skin. The process for improving the appearance of the skin may include:

- reduction in the appearance of fine lines on the skin;

- reduction of the appearance of wrinkles on the skin;

- improving skin tone and/or improving skin tone evenness;

- improving the softness and/or suppleness of the skin;

- reduction in the appearance of bags under the eyes;

- reduction in the appearance of dark circles around and/or under the eyes;

- coverage of pores, pimples and/or scars; and or

- the increase in radiance, luminosity and/or shine of the skin.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE

The present disclosure relates to skin firming compositions which instantly and dramatically improve the appearance of the skin by filling it and/or tightening it, and/or compressing it, and/or blurring and optimally covering facial skin imperfections such as fine lines and deep wrinkles, eye bags, pores, depressed scars such as acne scars, pimples, dark circles and others imperfections of skin color, while ensuring good hold and comfort throughout the day.

The inventors have discovered that the incorporation of pigments into the aqueous phase and/or the oily phase does not interfere with the mechanical properties of the film after application to the skin of the user. Unlike other products, the films formed on the skin have a particularly long lifespan and are not prone to drying out, whitening, cracking or peeling. On the contrary, they remain flexible (elastic), durable and comfortable. Additionally, the compositions (and the resulting films) hydrate, protect and conceal the underlying skin.

Skin firming compositions according to one aspect of the disclosure typically include

A. an aqueous phase comprising:

To. from about 5 to about 40% by weight water;

b. at least one or more water-dispersible pigments;

B. an oily phase comprising:

To. at least 5% by weight of one or more hydrophobic film-forming polymers;

b. from about 1 to about 40% by weight of one or more thickening agents;

vs. from about 30 to about 85% by weight of one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils; And

wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin firming composition.

The composition typically makes it possible to tighten and conceal the skin by smoothing wrinkles, bags under the eyes, hiding dark circles but also covering imperfections (pimples) when applied to the skin.

The skin firming compositions can be in the form of an emulsion, for example, a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion. In some cases, a water-in-oil emulsion is preferred.

Suitable components, such as those listed below, may be included or excluded from formulations of the skin firming compositions depending on the specific combination of other components, the form of the skin firming compositions and/or of the use of the formulation.

Pigments

The composition can include at least one pigment, for example to create a colored film on the skin, which can be useful for masking certain skin imperfections. In different embodiments, the at least one pigment can be chosen from inorganic or organic pigments.

In this document, the term "pigments" means inorganic or organic particles, white or colored, alone or coated on a substrate, which are insoluble in the composition in which they are present, but which can be further treated by various processes of treatment with various chemical coatings. The pigments are intended to color and/or opacify the resulting film. If the pigments are coated with hydrophobic groups, the treated pigments will be more hydrophobic and will therefore be well dispersed in the oil phase of an O/W or W/O emulsion. If the pigments are coated with hydrophilic groups, they will be more hydrophilic and therefore well dispersed in the aqueous phase of a W/O or O/W emulsion.

As used herein, untreated pigments are pigments that have not undergone any coating process that materially alters their hydrophobic or hydrophilic character. The average particle size or the average particle diameter of the pigments is typically less than about 1 µm and more generally greater than about 0.1 µm.

Inorganic pigments

By way of example, inorganic pigments which can be used include titanium oxides, zirconium oxides, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulphate, calcium sulphate, cerium oxides, zinc, iron oxides, chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and titanium dioxide, the composite particles which compose them and their combinations. For example, the pigments can be chosen from titanium dioxide and red, black and/or yellow iron oxides, as well as combinations thereof. It is also possible to use combinations of different types of pigments. Mention may also be made of colloidal silica/alumina composite particles. The term "silica/alumina composite" means silica particles in which the aluminum atoms have been partially substituted for the silicon atoms, that is to say particles composed of silicon oxide whose surface has been chemically modified so as to replace at least some of the silicon atoms with aluminum atoms, forming at most a monomolecular layer of aluminum.

Uncoated or untreated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B, by the company Degussa under the name P25, by the company Wackher under the name Transparent titanium oxide PW, by the company Myoshi Kasei under the name UFTR, by the company Tomen under the name ITS, by the company Kobo under the name TIO2 CR-50 I2, by the company Myoshi Kasei under the name NAI- TAO-77891 and by the company Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ. Uncoated or untreated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those sold under the name Z-Cote by the company Sunsmart; those sold under the name NanoX by the company Elementis; those sold under the name Nanogard WCD 2025 by the company Nanophase Technologies.

Uncoated or untreated cerium oxide pigments are sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide by Rhone-Poulenc. Uncoated or untreated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BLAQ, Nanogard FE45RAQ and Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R) or by the Mitsubishi company under the name TY-220.

Non-limiting examples may include pearlescent pigments, such as pigment coated mica, and pigment coated alumina. Surface-treated composite pigments, such as surface-treated titanium oxide/alumina and iron oxide/alumina composites, for example, are sold by Sensient under the trade names COVALUMINE SONOMA YELLOW AS, COVALUMINE SONOMA RED AS, COVALUMINE ATLAS WHITE AS and COVALUMINE SONOMA BLACK AS.

The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “nacre” designates colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, produced in particular by certain molluscs in their shell, or synthesized, and which have a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres used in the compositions according to the present invention can be in the lamellar form (or in the form of platelets), spherical (or globular), or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

In the present patent application, the term "spherical particles" designates particles in the form or substantially in the form of a sphere.

The term “lamellar particles” or “platelet shape” designates here the particles of parallelepipedic shape (rectangular or square surface), discoid (circular surface) or ellipsoidal (oval surface), characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height. .

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica coated with titanium oxide or dioxide, mica coated with chromium oxide , mica coated with tin oxide, mica coated with SnO ₂ , mica coated with BaSO ₄ , mica coated with an organic tint and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

It can also be particles of mica on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic dyes.

Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

In particular, nacres may be referred to as platelet-like micas coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, or both.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of Timica® nacres sold by BASF, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by Engelhard, Timiron nacres sold by Merck, Prestige nacres based of mica sold by the Eckart company, and the Sunshine synthetic nacres based on mica sold by the Sun Chemical company.

The nacres may in particular have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, golden and/or coppery color or tint.

By way of illustration of the nacres that can be used in the context of this disclosure, mention may be made in particular of the gold-colored nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names of Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); mother-of-pearl with copper reflections sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name of Copper 340A (Timica); mother-of-pearl with red reflections sold in particular by Merck under the name of Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); mother-of-pearl with yellow reflections sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red mother-of-pearl with golden reflections sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl sold especially by Engelhard under the name of Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black mother-of-pearl with golden reflections sold in particular by the Engelhard company under the name of Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica); blue nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna); the white nacres sold by the company BASF under the brand Timica® Terra White MN4501; the black nacres sold by the company BASF under the brand Timica® Terra Black MN4498; the brown mother-of-pearl sold by BASF under the Timica® Terra Brown MN4509 brand; the red nacres sold by the company BASF under the brand Timica® Terra Red MN4506; the yellow nacres sold by the company BASF under the brand Timica® Terra Yellow MN4502; white mother-of-pearl with silver reflections sold especially by the Merck company under the name of Xirona Silver; and the pinkish-orange-golden-green nacres sold especially by the Merck company under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and their combinations.

According to a preferred embodiment, the nacre useful for the present invention is in the form of platelets. More specifically, mother-of-pearl consists of mica plates on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides.

Nacres of this type are marketed, for example, by the company BASF under the trademark Timica® Terra White MN4501, which is a white powder.

In additional embodiments, pigments can be used whose structure can be, for example, of the type of silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the Miyoshi company under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Water-dispersible pigments ' oil

The skin tightening compositions can include one or more oil dispersible pigments. Typically, hydrophobic treatments are used to make the pigments dispersible in oil. In one or more embodiments, the one or more oil-dispersible pigments are selected from untreated iron oxides/titanium dioxide, iron oxides/titanium dioxide (and) isopropyl-titanium triisostearate, alumina (and) iron oxides/titanium dioxide (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) silica dimethyl silylate, mica (and) iron oxides/titanium dioxide, iron oxides/titanium dioxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and ) aluminum hydroxide, and a combination thereof.

The total amount of oil dispersible pigment present can vary, but is typically 1.0 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the skin firming composition. The total amount of water dispersible pigments typically ranges from about 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0 , 5.5, 6.0, 6.5, 7.0, 7.5, 8.0, 8.5, 9.0, 9.5 to about 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 0, 11.5, 12.0, 12.5, 13.0, 13.5, 14.0, 14.5, 15.0, 15.5, 16.0, 16.5, 17.0, 17.5, 18.0, 18.5, 19.0, 19.5 and 20% by weight, including ranges and subranges of these values, based on the total weight of the firming composition of the skin.

Water-dispersible pigments ' water

The skin firming compositions can include one or more water-dispersible pigments. Typically, hydrophilic treatments are used to make the pigments dispersible in water. In one or more embodiments, the one or more water-dispersible pigments are chosen from hydrophilic pigments treated with phytic acid (= IRON OXIDES (and) PHYTIC ACID), silica-coated pigments (= OXIDES (and) SILICA), PEG silane coated hydrophilic pigments, sodium glycerophosphate coated hydrophilic pigments, algin coated hydrophilic pigments and a combination thereof.

Non-limiting examples include TiO ₂ coated with superhydrophilic phytic acid, yellow iron oxide coated with superhydrophilic phytic acid, red iron oxide coated with superhydrophilic phytic acid, black iron oxide coated with superhydrophilic phytic acid and combinations thereof.

The total amount of water-dispersible pigment present can vary, but is typically about 1.0 to about 20% by weight based on the total weight of the skin firming composition. The total amount of water-dispersible pigments typically ranges from about 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5, 0, 5.5, 6.0, 6.5, 7.0, 7.5, 8.0, 8.5, 9.0, 9.5 to about 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11 .0, 11.5, 12.0, 12.5, 13.0, 13.5, 14.0, 14.5, 15.0, 15.5, 16.0, 16.5, 17.0 , 17.5, 18.0, 18.5, 19.0, 19.5 and 20% by weight, including ranges and subranges of these values, based on the total weight of the firming composition of the skin.

The total amount of water and oil dispersible pigments can vary, but is typically 1.0 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the skin firming composition. The total amount of water-dispersible pigments typically ranges from about 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5, 0, 5.5, 6.0, 6.5, 7.0, 7.5, 8.0, 8.5, 9.0, 9.5 to about 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11 .0, 11.5, 12.0, 12.5, 13.0, 13.5, 14.0, 14.5, 15.0, 15.5, 16.0, 16.5, 17.0 , 17.5, 18.0, 18.5, 19.0, 19.5 and 20% by weight, including ranges and subranges of these values, based on the total weight of the firming composition of the skin.

organic pigments

By way of further example, organic pigments which may be used include nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone. For example, the organic pigments can be chosen from carmine lake, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090 , 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under CI references 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments under codified in the Color CI references 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments codified in the Color Index under CI references 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, red pigments codified in the Color Index under CI references 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490 , 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, as well as phenolic or phenolic derivatives obtained from oxidative pigments such as phenolic or phenolic derivatives obtained described in patent FR 2 679 771.

It should be understood that the greater the amount of pigment added, the greater the effects of the film on the skin in concealing skin imperfections, such as pores, pimples, dark spots, and the like. Therefore, one skilled in the art will be able to choose an appropriate amount of pigment for the composition, keeping in mind the intended use of the final formulation.

Dyes

By way of additional example, at least one colorant can, for example, be chosen from the tints. Non-limiting examples of dyes include Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-Carotene, Soybean Oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5 , quinoline yellow and annatto.

Film-forming polymer(s)

Hydrophobic film-forming polymers

The hydrophobic film-forming polymers are present in the oily phase of the skin firming composition. This composition includes one or more hydrophobic film-forming polymers. For example, the film forming polymers may be present in the skin firming composition in an amount of at least about 5% by weight.

The total amount of hydrophobic film-forming polymers in cosmetic compositions can vary but is typically at least 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. More specifically, the total amount of hydrophobic film-forming polymers can be at least 5 wt% to about 40 wt%, at least 5 wt% to about 30 wt%, at least 5 wt% to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Further, the total amount of hydrophobic film-forming polymers can be from about 5 wt% to about 30 wt%, from about 5 wt% to about 25 wt%, from about 5 wt% to about 20 % by weight, from about 5% by weight to about 15% by weight, from about 6% by weight to about 30% by weight, from about 6% by weight to about 25% by weight, from about 6 wt% to about 20 wt%, from about 6 wt% to about 15 wt%, or from about 7 wt% to about 14 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In some cases, the total amount of film-forming polymer is substantially an acrylates/isobornyl acrylate copolymer. For example, the film-forming polymer may consist essentially of acrylate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers or may consist thereof. In other cases, the skin firming composition may include an acrylates/isobornyl acrylate copolymer in one of the amounts listed above for the film-forming polymer(s).

The film-forming polymers can include one or more film-forming polymers in addition to the acrylates/isobornyl acrylates copolymer. The terms "film-forming polymer" or "film-forming" denote a polymer which is capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous deposit on a support, in particular on keratinous materials, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and better still a deposit whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolated and manipulated in isolation, for example when said deposit is prepared by pouring onto a non-sticky surface, for example a coated surface teflon or silicone.

In some cases, the total amount of film-forming polymer is substantially an acrylates/stearyl methacrylate copolymer. For example, the film-forming polymer can consist essentially of an acrylate/stearyl methacrylate copolymer or consist thereof. In other instances, the skin firming composition may include an acrylates/stearyl methacrylate copolymer in any of the amounts listed above for the film-forming polymer(s).

The term “hydrophobic film-forming polymer” designates a film-forming polymer which has little or no affinity for water and, in this respect, does not lend itself to formulation in the form of a solute in an aqueous medium. In particular, the term “hydrophobic polymer” denotes a polymer having a solubility in water at 25° C. of less than 1% by weight.

The additional film-forming polymer may include or be selected from one of the film-forming polymers described in PCT/EP2020/068143, which is incorporated herein in its entirety for all purposes.

As described in document PCT/EP2020/068143, the additional film-forming polymer(s) can be found in an oil dispersion comprising one or more particles of at least one polymer surface stabilized with at least one stabilizer in a preferably anhydrous medium. For example, the aqueous dispersion may contain a hydrocarbon-based liquid fatty substance. The dispersions can be made up of particles, which are generally spherical, and contain at least one surface-stabilized polymer, in an anhydrous medium. In some cases, the oily dispersion includes from 60% to 98% by weight, in particular from 75% to 96% of monomers a) to c), as will be seen below, relative to the total weight of the polymers contained in said dispersion. . The polymer particles i) of the dispersion (A) preferably have a number-average size lying in the range of 5 to 500 nm, in particular between 10 and 400 nm and even better between 20 and 300 nm. The final particle size is preferably greater than 100 nm. In particular, the number-average size varies from 100 nm to 500 nm, more particularly from 150 nm to 400 nm and even more particularly from 160 nm to 300 nm.

The film-forming polymer, or its particles, can be chosen from one or more of the following elements:

a) ethylenic homopolymers of (C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl)alkyl acrylate (C ₁ -C ₁₈ ) _, preferably ethylenic homopolymers of (C ₁ -C ₁₈ )alkyl (meth)acrylate ;

b) ethylenic copolymers of (C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl)alkyl (C ₁ -C ₁₈ ) acrylate _, preferably of C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl (meth)acrylate, and of acid (C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl)acrylic, preferably ethylenic copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid; And

c) ethylenic copolymers of (C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl)alkyl acrylate ₍ C ₁ -C ₁₈ ), preferably ethylenic copolymers of (C ₁ -C ₁₈ )alkyl (meth)acrylate.

In at least one preferred embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer is an ethylenic acrylate homopolymer resulting from the polymerization of an identical monomer having a structure according to formula (I), below.

formula (I) in which:

- R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (C ₁ -C ₄ ) such as methyl, and

- R 'represents an alkyl group (in C ₁ -C ₁₈ ) such as methyl _{or ethyl, preferably the monomer of formula (I) is an alkyl acrylate in C 1 -C 18 such as l} methyl acrylate.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer can be an ethylenic acrylate copolymer b) resulting from the polymerization:

- at least one monomer of formula (I) as defined above, preferably a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylate such as methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate; And

- a monomer of formula (II), provided below.

formula (II) in which R is as defined previously, in particular the monomer of formula (II) is acrylic acid. The amount of acrylic acid is within a range of 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the monomers of the particle i) and the polymer of the particles i) is in particular a copolymer resulting from the copolymerization of the acid acrylic with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate monomers chosen in particular from methyl (meth)acrylate and ethyl (meth)acrylate.

According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymer constituting the particles i) is an ethylenic acrylate copolymer b) resulting from the polymerization:

- at least two different monomers: of formula (I) as defined _above , preferably a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl acrylate such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and stearyl acrylate; And

- optionally a monomer of formula (II) as defined above.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer of particles i) is _a polymer derived from C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl (meth)acrylate monomers. The monomers are preferably chosen from methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, n-propyl (meth)acrylate, isopropyl (meth)acrylate, n-propyl (meth)acrylate, -butyl and tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate and more preferably from methyl (meth)acrylate and stearyl (meth)acrylate.

A C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylate monomer is advantageously used. The monomers are preferably chosen from methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate. A C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl methacrylate monomer is also particularly _used . The monomers are preferably chosen from methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate and stearyl methacrylate, more particularly stearyl methacrylate.

In yet another example, the film-forming polymer includes from 2% to 40% by weight, in particular from 4% to 25%, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight of (C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl) acrylate monomers (C ₉ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl included in group d) or e) above, relative to the total weight of the film-forming polymers.

According to another case, the particles i) include b) ethylenic copolymers of b1 ₎ (C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl) (C ₁ -C ₁₈ )alkyl acrylate and b2) ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxyl, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulphonic acid and/or aryl groups such as benzyl. The ethylenic monomers can comprise one or more carboxyl, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulphonic acid and/or aryl groups selected from (1), (2), (3), (4) and (5), which are described below. :

(1) R ¹ (R ² )C=C(R ³ )-Acid with R ¹ , R ² and R ³ representing a hydrogen atom or a CO ₂ H, H ₂ PO ₄ or SO ₃ H group, and Acid representing a carboxyl, a phosphoric acid or a sulphonic acid, preferably carboxyl, it being understood that R ¹ , R ² and R ³ cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom;

(2) H ₂ C=C(R)-C(O)-N(R')-Alk-Acid with R and R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (C _{1 -C4} ); Alk represents an alkylene group (C ₁ -C ₆ ) optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from Acid as defined previously and hydroxyl; and Acid is as defined above, preferably carboxyl or sulphonic acid;

(3) Ar-(R ^a )C=C(R ^b )-R ^c with R ^a , R ^b and R ^c , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (C ₁ -C ₄ ), and Ar representing an aryl group, preferably benzyl, optionally substituted by at least one CO ₂ H, H ₂ PO ₄ or SO ₃ H acid group, preferably substituted by a CO ₂ H or SO ₃ H group,

(4) a maleic anhydride of formulas (4a) and (4b):

formulas (4a) and (4b) in which R _a , R _b and R _C , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl group; preferably, R _a , R _b and R _C represent a hydrogen atom. Preferably, the ethylenically unsaturated anhydride monomer of the invention is of formula (4b) and more preferably is maleic anhydride; And

(5) H ₂ C=C(R)-C(O)-OH with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl.

Preferably, b2) is a (C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl)acrylic acid, for example, b) can be (meth)acrylate copolymers of C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl and (meth)acrylic acid. In one case, b2) is selected from crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, styrenesulfonic acid, vinylbenzoic acid, vinylphosphoric acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoglycolic acid and their salts; preferably, b2) represents acrylic acid.

The film-forming polymers, or their particles, can be in dispersion with stabilizers, such as ethylenic homopolymers of (C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl)alkyl (C ₉ -C ₂₂ ) acrylate, in particular ethylenic homopolymers of (C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl) (C ₉ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl acrylate, _preferably ethylenic homopolymers of (C ₉ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl (meth)acrylate and more preferably ethylenic homopolymers (C ₉ -C ₁₈ ) _alkyl (meth)acrylate. The alkyl (C ₉ -C ₂₂ ) or alkyl (C ₉ -C ₁₈ ) groups can be linear or _branched . In at least one case, the stabilizer(s) ii) consists of ethylenic polymers chosen from d) ethylenic homopolymers resulting from the polymerization of monomers of formula H ₂ C=C(R) -C(O)-O-R'' with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (in C ₁ -C ₄ ) such as methyl, and R'' representing an alkyl group (in C ₉ -C ₂₂ ) and preferably (C ₉ -C ₁₈ ) _alkyl . R'' can represent an isodecyl, a lauryl, a stearyl, a hexadecyl or a behenyl. R'' may, alternatively, represent a linear (C ₉ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl group and, preferably, a linear (C ₉ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl group. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the stabilizer(s) ii) is (are) chosen from e) ethylenic copolymers of (C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl) alkyl acrylate (C ₉ -C ₂₂ ) and (C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl) alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) acrylate, in particular (C ₁ -C 4 alkyl) alkyl acrylate (C 1 -C ₄ ) copolymers ₉ -C ₁₈ ) and (C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl) alkyl acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ ) _, preferably the copolymers (meth)acrylate of C ₉ -C ₁₈ alkyl and ( C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl meth)acrylate.

The stabilizer(s) ii) may be chosen from the ethylenic copolymers e) of formulas (III) and (IV):

formulas (III) and (IV) in which

- R, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (C ₁ -C ₄ ) such as methyl,

- R', which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group (C ₁ -C ₄ ) such as methyl or ethyl, and

- R'' represents an alkyl group (in C ₉ -C ₂₂ ), preferably alkyl (in C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ ) and in particular _alkyl (in C _2n ) with n being an integer equal to 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10. Preferably, R'' represents an isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl or behenyl group.

Preferably, the stabilizer(s) ii) is (are) chosen from copolymers derived from monomers chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl and behenyl (meth)acrylates and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably methyl (meth)acrylate. More preferably, the stabilizer(s) ii) is (are) chosen from copolymers derived from monomers chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl and hexadecyl (meth)acrylates and ( C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl meth)acrylates, preferably methyl (meth)acrylate or ethyl (meth)acrylate. In particular, the stabilizer ii) can be chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl or behenyl (meth)acrylate homopolymers and random copolymers of isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl or behenyl and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably present in a weight ratio (meth)acrylate of lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl or behenyl/(meth ) C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylate greater than 4.5. This weight ratio can range from 5 to 15 and preferably from 5.5 to 12.

In another case, the stabilizer(s) ii) is (are) chosen from ethylenic copolymers e) resulting from the polymerization of a monomer of formula (IV), as described above, and two different monomers of formula (III), as described above. In one case, the stabilizer(s) ii) is (are) chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization of a monomer chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl (meth)acrylates, hexadecyl and behenyl and two different C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate. In particular, the weight ratio between the isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl or behenyl (meth)acrylates and the C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylates is greater than 4. This ratio advantageously lies in a range of 5 to 15 and, preferably, in a range of 5.5 to 11. In at least one other case, the stabilizer(s) ii) is (are) chosen ) from ethylenic copolymers e) resulting from the polymerization of a monomer of formula (III) as defined in the preceding claim and of two different monomers of formula (IV) as defined above. For example, the stabilizer(s) ii) may be chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization of two different monomers chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl (meth)acrylates, hexadecyl and behenyl and a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, preferably methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate; in particular, the weight ratio of isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl or behenyl (meth)acrylates/C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate is greater than 4. This weight ratio can be fall within a range of 4.5 to 10 or 5 to 8.

In one case, the stabilizer(s) ii) is (are) chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of two different monomers chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl (meth)acrylates, hexadecyl and behenyl and a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, preferably methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate; in particular, the weight ratio of isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl or behenyl (meth)acrylates/C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate in dispersion (A) is less than 1 In particular, this weight ratio can vary from 0.05 to 0.5 and, more preferably, from 0.08 to 0.2 in the dispersion (A). According to a particular example, the stabilizer(s) ii) may (may) be present in a range of 2% to 40% by weight, in particular from 3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 4 % to 25% by weight relative to the weight of polymer(s) present in the dispersion (A). Preferably, the stabilizer(s) ii) and the particle(s) i) have a number-average molecular mass (Mn) of between 1,000 and 1,000,000 g/mole, in particular between 5,000 and 500,000 g/mole and better still between 10,000 and 300,000 g/mole.

In addition or alternatively, the film-forming polymer(s) may be chosen from acrylic acid/isobutyl acrylates/isobornyl acrylate copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate, acrylates/acrylate copolymer isobornyl copolymer, norbornene/tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylnorbornene copolymer, acrylate/polymethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, acrylates/polymethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, (C _30-45 )alkyldimethylsilylpolypropylsilsequixane, trimethylsilsesquixane, polypropylsilsesquixane, acrylates/dimethicone copolymer, octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer , VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer, acrylates/t-butylacrylamide copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer, triacontanyl PVP copolymer, acrylates/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, and a combination thereof. In some cases, the at least one film-forming polymer includes one or more of the following: acrylic acid/isobutyl acrylates/isobornyl acrylate copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate, acrylates/isobornyl acrylate copolymer, norbornene/tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylnorbornene copolymer , acrylates/polymethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, and a combination thereof.

The film-forming polymers can be hydrophobic film-forming polymers. The term “hydrophobic film-forming polymer” designates a film-forming polymer which has little or no affinity for water and, in this respect, does not lend itself to formulation in the form of a solute in an aqueous medium. In particular, the term “hydrophobic polymer” denotes a polymer having a solubility in water at 25° C. of less than 1% by weight.

The film-forming polymers can be chosen from the following and, optionally, hydrophobic:

- film-forming polymers which are soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular fat-soluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and forms a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the medium; And

- film-forming polymers which are dispersible in an organic solvent medium, which means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium, the polymer remaining stable and/or compatible once incorporated into this medium. These polymers can in particular be in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone oils or oils based on hydrocarbons; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous dispersions of polymers comprise polymer particles stabilized on their surface with at least one stabilizer; these non-aqueous dispersions are often referred to as NAD.

The hydrophobic film-forming polymers which may be mentioned include homopolymers and copolymers of a compound bearing an ethylenic unit, acrylic polymers and copolymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, silicone polymers such as polymers bearing a non-silicone organic backbone grafted with polysiloxane-containing monomers, and polyisoprenes.

In some cases, useful hydrophobic film-forming polymers include lipodispersible film-forming polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, ethylenic block copolymers, vinyl polymers comprising at least one carboxiloxane dendrimer unit, silicone acrylate copolymers and combinations thereof, preferably lipodispersible film-forming polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles (NAD).

Lipodispers film-forming polymers To bles in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, also called NAD

The non-aqueous dispersions of hydrophobic film-forming polymer which can be used include dispersions of particles of a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably an acrylic polymer, in a liquid oily phase, for example, in the form of surface-stabilized particles dispersed in the fatty phase. liquid. The dispersion of surface stabilized polymer particles can be made as described in WO 04/055081, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Ethylene Block Copolymer

The film-forming polymers can be an ethylenic block copolymer, containing at least a first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 40° C. and being totally or partially derived from one or more first monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40°C, and at least one second block having a glass transition temperature less than or equal to 20°C and being totally or partially derived from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20°C, said first block and said second block being linked together by an intermediate random segment comprising at least one of said first constituent monomers of the first block and at least one of said second constituent monomers of the second block, and said block copolymer having a polydispersity index I greater than 2. Polymers of this type suitable for the invention are described in document EP 1 411 069, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. A non-limiting example includes the product MEXOMER PAS (acrylic acid/isobutyl acrylate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer diluted to 50% in isododecane) sold by the company Noveal.

Vinyl polymer comprising at least one dendrimer-based unit of carboxiloxane

The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can be at least one vinyl polymer comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit. The vinyl polymer typically has a backbone and at least one side chain, which includes a carbosiloxane dendrimer based unit having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure. Vinyl polymers comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer unit as described in applications WO 03/045337 and EP 963751, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" is a molecular structure with branched groups of high molecular mass, said structure having a high regularity in the radial direction from the bond to the backbone. These carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described as a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in Japanese Patent Application Kokai 9-171154, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

A vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit has a molecular side chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, and can be derived from the polymerization of

(A) from 0 to 99.9 parts by weight of a vinyl monomer; And

(B) from 100 to 0.1 part by weight of a carbosiloxane dendrimer containing a radically polymerizable organic group, represented by the general formula:

wherein Y represents a radically polymerizable organic group, R ¹ represents an aryl group or an alkyl group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and X ⁱ represents a silylalkyl group which, when i=1, is represented by the formula :

in which R ¹ is as defined above, R ² represents an alkylene group containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, R ³ represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, X ⁱ⁺¹ represents a d hydrogen, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group, or the silylalkyl group defined above with i=i+1; i is an integer of 1 to 10 which represents the generation of said silylalkyl group, and a' is an integer of 0 to 3;

wherein said radically polymerizable organic group contained in component (A) is selected from

the organic groups containing a methacrylic group or an acrylic group and which are represented by the formulas

And

in which R ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R ⁵ represents an alkylene group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; and the organic groups containing a styryl group and which are represented by the formula

wherein R ⁶ represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R ⁷ represents an alkyl group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R ⁸ represents an alkylene group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, b is an integer from 0 to 4, and c is 0 or 1, such that if c is 0, -(R ⁸ )c- represents a bond.

The vinyl-type monomer which is the component (A) in the vinyl polymer is a vinyl-type monomer which contains a radical-polymerizable vinyl group.

The following are examples of this vinyl type monomer: methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate or an analogous lower alkyl methacrylate; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2 -ethylhexyl, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate or a similar higher methacrylate; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate or a vinyl ester of an analogous lower fatty acid; vinyl caproate, vinyl 2-ethylhexoate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate or an ester of a similar higher fatty acid; styrene, vinyltoluene, benzyl methacrylate, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone or similar aromatic vinyl monomers; methacrylamide, N-methylolmethacrylamide, N-methoxymethylmethacrylamide, isobutoxymethoxymethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide or similar vinyl type monomers containing amide groups; hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl alcohol methacrylate or similar vinyl type monomers containing hydroxyl groups; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid or similar vinyl type monomers containing a carboxylic acid group; tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate, butoxyethyl methacrylate, ethoxydiethylene glycol methacrylate, polyethylene glycol methacrylate, polypropylene glycol monomethacrylate, hydroxybutyl vinyl ether, cetyl vinyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl vinyl ether or a similar vinyl type monomer with ether linkages; methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, polydimethylsiloxane containing a methacrylic group at one of its molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane containing a styryl group at one of its molecular ends, or a similar silicone compound containing unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; glycidyl methacrylic ether; an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt and an alkali metal salt of methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid; a radically polymerizable unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic acid group, such as a styrenesulfonic acid group; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic acid, such as 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and a methacrylic acid ester of an alcohol containing a tertiary amine group, such as a methacrylic acid ester of diethylamine.

Multifunctional vinyl type monomers may optionally be included in some cases. Examples of such compounds are: trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, pentaerythrityl trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,4-butanediol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, neopentylglycol dimethacrylate , trimethylolpropane trioxyethylmethacrylate, tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate dimethacrylate, tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate trimethacrylate, polydimethylsiloxane capped with styryl groups bearing divinylbenzene groups at both ends, or similar silicone compounds bearing unsaturated groups.

To facilitate the preparation of the combination of raw materials for cosmetic products, the number average molecular weight of the vinyl polymer carrying a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be chosen in the range between 3,000 g/mol and 2,000,000 g/mol and preferably between 5,000 g/mol and 800,000 g/mol. It can be a liquid, gum, paste, solid, powder or any other form. The preferred forms are solutions consisting of the dilution of a dispersion or a powder in solvents such as a silicone oil or an organic oil.

According to one embodiment, a grafted vinyl polymer within the meaning of the present disclosure can be conveyed in an oil or a combination of oils, preferably volatile, chosen in particular from silicone oils and oils based on hydrocarbons, and their combinations. A non-limiting silicone oil which may, if desired, be used is cyclopentasiloxane. Likewise, a non-limiting hydrocarbon oil that can be used is isododecane.

Vinyl polymers grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer unit include polymers sold under the names TIB 4-100, TIB 4-101, TIB 4-120, TIB 4-130, TIB 4-200, FA 4002 ID (TIB 4-202), TIB 4-220 and FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by Dow Corning.

In some cases, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one unit based on carbosiloxane dendrimer is an acrylate/trimethyl polysiloxymethacrylate copolymer, for example, the product sold in isododecane under the name of silicone acrylate FA 4002 ID of Dow Corning.

Silicone acrylate copolymers

In some instances, one or more of the film-forming polymers includes at least one copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups. The term “copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups” designates a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more carboxylic monomers (acid or ester), and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane chains (PDMS) . The term "carboxylic monomer" refers to both carboxylic acid monomers and carboxylic acid ester monomers.

The monomer (a) can be chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, their esters and combinations of these monomers. Esters which may be mentioned include the following monomers: acrylate, methacrylate, maleate, fumarate, itaconate and/or crotonate. According to at least one embodiment of the invention, the monomers in ester form are more particularly chosen from linear or branched alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, preferably C ₁ -C ₂₄ and better still C ₁ - C ₂₂ , the alkyl radical preferably being chosen from methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl and 2-ethylhexyl radicals, and combinations thereof. Thus, in certain cases, the copolymer comprises as carboxylate groups at least one group chosen from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and acrylate or methacrylate of methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl or 2 -ethylhexyl, and combinations thereof.

The term “polydimethylsiloxanes” (also called organopolysiloxanes and abbreviated as PDMS) designates any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units whose silicon atoms are bonded together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond ≡ Si-O-Si≡), comprising trimethyl radicals directly bonded by a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The PDMS chains which can be used to obtain the copolymer can comprise at least one polymerizable radical group, preferably located on at least one of the ends of the chain, that is to say that the PDMS can contain, for example, a radical polymerizable group at both ends of the chain or a radical polymerizable group at one end of the chain and a terminal trimethylsilyl group at the other end of the chain. The polymerizable radical group may in particular be an acrylic or methacrylic group, in particular a CH ₂ =CR ₁ -CO-OR ₂ group, in which R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group and R ₂ represents -CH ₂ - , -(CH ₂ ) _n - with n=3, 5, 8 or 10, -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ - O-CH ₂ -, or -CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -.

The copolymers are generally obtained according to the usual polymerization and grafting processes, for example by radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example on one of the ends of the chain or on both ends) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer. The copolymers obtained can have a molecular weight range from approximately 3,000 g/mol to 200,000 g/mol and preferably from approximately 5,000 g/mol to 100,000 g/mol. The copolymer can be in its native form or in a form dispersed in a solvent such as lower alcohols containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, for example isopropyl alcohol, or oils, for example volatile silicone oils (for example, cyclopentasiloxane).

Additional copolymers which may be mentioned include acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate copolymers containing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, stearyl methacrylate copolymers containing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate copolymers containing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, methacrylate copolymers methyl, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate containing polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may also be made in particular of the copolymers sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the names KP-561 (CTFA name: acrylates/dimethicone), KP-541 in which the copolymer is dispersed at 60% by weight in isopropyl alcohol (name CTFA: acrylates/dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol), and KP-545 in which the copolymer is dispersed at 30% in cyclopentasiloxane (CTFA name: acrylates/dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane). Mention may also be made of the graft copolymer of polyacrylic acid and dimethylpolysiloxane dissolved in isodododecane, sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the name KP-550.

adhesive polymer

The skin firming composition can include one or more film forming polymers which are adhesive polymers. In various embodiments, the at least one adhesive polymer can be amorphous, crystalline or semi-crystalline. In some instances, the adhesive polymer may have a Tg greater than about 25°C, such as greater than about 50°C, greater than about 75°C, or greater than about 100°C, depending on various embodiments. In other instances, the adhesive polymer may have a Tg below about 25°C, such as below about 0°C, below about -25°C, or below about -50°C.

As non-limiting examples of adhesive polymers having a Tg greater than approximately 25° C., mention may be made of polymer particles (C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl methacrylate), stabilized in a non-aqueous dispersion, referred to here as a “dispersion of oil” for ease of reference, such as those described in document WO2015/091513 which is incorporated by reference herein. By way of example, the C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate monomers can be chosen from methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, n- propyl, isopropyl (meth)acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate and tert-butyl (meth)acrylate. For example, the polymer can be a methyl acrylate and/or ethyl acrylate polymer.

The polymer may also comprise an ethylenically unsaturated acid monomer or its anhydride, chosen in particular from ethylenically unsaturated acid monomers comprising at least one carboxylic, phosphoric or sulphonic acid function, such as crotonic acid, itaconic acid, fumaric acid , maleic acid, maleic anhydride, styrenesulfonic acid, vinylbenzoic acid, vinylphosphoric acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid or acrylamidoglycolic acid, and their salts. For example, the ethylenically unsaturated acid monomer can be chosen from (meth)acrylic acid, maleic acid and maleic anhydride.

Hydrophilic film-forming polymers

Film-forming polymers which may be used in the cosmetic compositions shown herein include, for example, acrylate copolymers, styrene/acrylate copolymers, acrylamine/acrylate copolymers, polyurethanes, silicone resins and silicone block copolymer particles, and other resins, and their derivatives and combinations. The hydrophilic film-forming polymers are present in the aqueous phase of the composition.

Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic film formers may include crotonic acid/vinyl C _8-12 isoalkyl esters/VA/bis-vinyldimethicone cross-linked copolymer, styrene/acrylates/ammonium methacrylate copolymer, polyurethane-35, acrylates copolymer and a combination of these.

According to various exemplary embodiments, the acrylate copolymers can be selected from copolymers comprising two or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters, for example lower alkyl esters such as esters of methyl, ethyl and ethylhexyl.

By way of nonlimiting example only, the acrylate copolymers can be chosen from styrene acrylate copolymers, ammonium acrylate copolymers, ethyl acrylate copolymers, ethyl acrylate/hexylacrylate copolymers, acrylate/octylacrylate copolymers , alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl acrylate/methacrylate copolymers, ethyl acrylate/methacrylic acid copolymer and t-butyl acrylate/ethyl acrylate/acid methacrylic. Exemplary commercial acrylate copolymers include, but are not limited to, ALLIANZ ^TM OPT sold by Ashland Specialty Ingredients; COVACRYL A15 and COVACRYL E14 sold by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies LCW; DAITOSOL 4000 SJT, DAITOSOL 5000 AD , DAITOSOL 5000 SJ, KOBOGUARD® 50A and KOBOGUARD® 50N sold by Kobo Products, Inc. and YODOSOL GH810 sold by AkzoNobel; LUVIFLEX® SOFT, LUVIMER® 36D, and LUVIMER® 100P sold by BASF; and NEOCRYL XK-90 sold by Neoresins, Inc.

The film-forming polymer can also be chosen from polyacrylates such as polyacrylate-21 and polyacrylate-15, and acrylate copolymers.

In another embodiment, at least _{one film-forming polymer can be chosen from a lipophilic polymer, such as, for example, poly(C 10-30 alkyl} acrylates) (available as Intelimer® IPA 13-1 from Air Products).

Latex film formers

The film-forming polymer can also be chosen from latex film-forming polymers such as polyacrylate latex and their copolymers.

Suitable examples of latex polymers for use in the present invention are ethylhexyl acrylate/hema copolymer (and) acrylates/diethylaminoethyl methacrylate/ethylhexyl acrylate copolymer (Syntran® PC 5775), styrene/acrylates/diethyl methacrylate copolymer ammonium (Syntran® 5760, Syntran® 5009, Syntran® PC5620), polyacrylate-21 (and) acrylates/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Syntran® PC5100, Syntran® PC5776, Eudragit E 100, Jurymer ET-410C), styrene/ ammonium acrylates/methacrylate (Syntran® 5009 CG), olefin/acrylate graft polymer (and) sodium laureth sulfate (and SEC in C _{1 2-15} -pareth 15 (Syntran® EX108), acrylate copolymer (Aculyn® 33A polymer , Avalure® Ace 210/120/315 acrylic copolymer, Carbopol Aqua SF-1 ®Polymer, Daitosol® 500 AD, Coatex® Co 633, Eliclear® 380/700/4U, Eudragit® L 100, Joncryl® 85, Luviflex® Soft ), acrylates/ethylhexyl acrylate copolymer (Daitosol® 5000SJ, Daitosol® 4000SJT, MJA PS34-21, SDP-001). Syntran® polymers are commercially available from the supplier Interpolymer Corp.

In one embodiment, the latex polymer is an acrylate latex polymer, in particular styrene/acrylate copolymers. Non-limiting examples of commercially available styrene/acrylate copolymers include, but are not limited to, DAITOSOL 5000 STY sold by Kobo Products, Inc; JONCRYL® 77 sold by BASF; NEOCRYL BT-62 sold by Neoresins, Inc; RHOPLEX ^™ P-376 and UCAR ^™ DL 432S sold by Dow Chemical Company; and YODOSOL GH41 and YODOSOL GH840 sold by AkzoNobel.

In other exemplary embodiments, the acrylamide/acrylate copolymers may be selected from acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/t-butyl acrylamide copolymer, acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer, and octylacrylamide/acrylates/methacrylates copolymer. Exemplary commercial acrylamide/acrylate copolymers include, but are not limited to, AMPHOMER® LV-71 and DERMACRYL® 79 sold by AkzoNobel and ULTRAHOLD® STRONG sold by BASF.

In at least one exemplary embodiment, the latex film may be selected from blends comprising a combination of latex films, including, for example, a blend of one of the aforementioned films. By way of non-limiting example, a latex film-forming mixture useful according to the disclosure can comprise (1) at least one random copolymer of styrene acrylate or its derivatives, and at least one acrylate copolymer or its derivatives, or ( 2) at least two random copolymers of styrene acrylate or its derivatives.

In one embodiment, the film is chosen from among the styrene/acrylates/ammonium methacrylate copolymers sold by Interpolymer Corporation, in particular SYNTRAN® 5760 (styrene/acrylates/ammonium methacrylate copolymer (and) sodium laureth sulphate ( and) caprylyl glycol); SYNTRAN® 5775 (acrylates/ethylhexyl acrylate/hema (et) acrylates/diethylaminoethyl methacrylate/ethylhexyl acrylate (and) isodeceth-6 (and) caprylyl glycol (and) sodium laureth sulfate) copolymer; SYNTRAN® Ex 108 (olefin/acrylate (and) sodium laureth sulfate (and) SEC C _{1 2-15} -pareth 15 graft polymer); and SYNTRAN® 108 GC (olefin/acrylic graft emulsion).

Thickening agent(s)

The skin firming composition includes one or more thickening agents. According to at least one aspect of the disclosure, the thickening agent(s) may include or be chosen from polyamide-8, styrene-ethylene/propylene copolymer, nylon-611 cross-linked polymer/ dimethicone, VP/EICOSENE copolymer, silicone elastomer, emulsifying silicone elastomers, fumed silica, hydrophobic modified silica, silica silylate, zeolite, natural clay, synthetic clay, kaolin, hectorite, organically modified hectorite, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (and) hectorite disteardimonium (and) propylene carbonate, activated clay, disteardimonium hectorite, stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite, benzalkonium bentonite, clays and a combination thereof.

The total amount of thickening agents in skin firming compositions can vary but is typically about 1 to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the skin firming composition. In some cases, the total amount of thickening agents can be about 1 to about 35% by weight, about 1 to about 30% by weight, about 1 to about 25% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, from about 1 to about 15% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 2 to about 40% by weight, from about 2 to about 35% by weight , about 2 to about 30% by weight, about 2 to about 25% by weight, about 2 to about 20% by weight, about 2 to about 15% by weight, or about 2 to about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the skin firming composition.

For example, the skin firming composition can include thickening agents in an amount of about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 , 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 to about 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39 and 40% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the skin firming composition.

Non-limiting examples of thickening agents are provided below.

Mineral thickeners

Mineral thickeners are mineral-based compounds that thicken or alter the viscosity of skin firming compositions. Non-limiting examples of mineral thickeners include silica silylate, fumed silica, zeolite, natural clay, synthetic clay, kaolin, hectorite, organically modified hectorite (eg, INCI: pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (and) disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate), an activated clay (for example, disteardimonium hectorite, stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite, and benzalkonium bentonite), and a combination of these.

In some instances, the skin firming compositions may include one or more inorganic thickening agents selected from optionally modified silicas, optionally modified clays, and a combination thereof. The inorganic thickeners can be chosen from optionally modified silicas, optionally modified clays and a combination thereof. In some cases, the inorganic thickeners are chosen from lipophilic (organophilic) clays, in particular modified hectorites, hydrophobic treated fumed silica, hydrophobic silica aerogels and combinations thereof (for example, disteardimonium hectorite, silylate silica or a combination thereof).

The inorganic thickeners can be chosen from silica silylate, fumed silica, zeolite, natural clay, synthetic clay, kaolin, hectorite, organically modified hectorite (eg, INCI: 30 pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (and) disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate), an activated clay (for example, disteardimonium hectorite, stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite, and benzalkonium bentonite).

Silicas optional ly modified

The optionally modified silicas include fumed silica, optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of which may be less than 1 μm. More precisely, it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduced number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. The silanol groups can in particular be replaced by hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. Hydrophobic groups can be:

- trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. The silicas thus treated are called “silylate silica” according to the CTFA ( ^6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812 by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-53 by the company Cabot;

- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. The silicas thus treated are called “silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA ( ^6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972 and Aerosil R974 by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610 and Cab-O-Sil TS-720 by the company Cabot.

Hydrophobic fumed silica, in particular, can have a particle size ranging from nanometers to micrometers, for example over a range of about 5 to 200 nm.

The optionally modified silicas can, for example, be silica airgel particles. Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are usually synthesized by a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical _CO2 . This type of drying avoids shrinkage of pores and material. The sol-gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker C J., and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica airgel particles may have a specific surface area per unit mass (S _M ) ranging from 500 to 1500 m ² /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m ² /g and even better from 600 to 800 m ² / g, and a size expressed by the volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, better still from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 30 µm, more preferably 5 to 25 µm, more preferably 5 to 20 µm, and even more preferably 5 to 15 µm. In some cases, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a volume average diameter (D[0.5]) size in the range of 1 to 30 µm, preferably 5 to 25 µm, more preferably from 5 to 20 µm and even better from 5 to 15 µm.

The hydrophobic silica airgel particles can have a specific surface area per unit mass (S _M ) ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g and a size expressed by the volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 µm and better still 5 to 15 µm. The hydrophobic silica airgel particles may have a range of specific surface area per unit volume (S _V ) of from 5 to 60 m ² /cm ³ , preferably from 10 to 50 m ² /cm ³ and even more preferably from 15 at 40 m ² /cm ³ .

The term "hydrophobic silica" designates any silica whose surface is treated with silylation agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si--Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups. In some cases, it is particularly useful to use hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups. Mention may be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Airgel OGD 201, Airgel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200. Mention may be made of the aerogels sold by the company Dow Corning under the reference DOWSIL VM-2270 Airgel. Particularly useful aerogels include aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

clays optionally modified

Clays are cation-containing silicates which may be selected from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and combinations thereof. Examples of these materials include, but are not limited to, clays of the smectite family, as well as those of the vermiculite, stevensite, and chlorite families. These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.

Mention may in particular be made of smectites, such as saponites, hectorites, montmorillonites, bentonites or beidellite and in particular synthetic hectorites (also called laponites), such as the products sold by Rockwood Additives Limited under the names of Laponite XLS, Laponite XLG, Laponite RD, Laponite RDS and Laponite XL21 (these products are sodium and magnesium silicates and in particular sodium lithium and magnesium silicates); bentonites, such as the product sold under the name Bentone HC by Rheox; magnesium and aluminum silicates, which are in particular hydrated, such as the products sold by the company Vanderbilt under the name Veegum Ultra, Veegum HS or Veegum DGT, or even calcium silicates and in particular those in synthetic form sold by the company under the name Micro-Cel C.

In some cases, organophilic clays are preferred, more particularly modified clays, such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and combinations thereof. The clay can be modified bentonite or optionally modified hectorite. The clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkylarylsulphonates and amine oxides, and combinations thereof. .

Mention may be made of hectorites _modified with a quaternary amine, more specifically with a C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid ammonium halide, such as a chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name : Disteardimonium hectorite), for example the product sold under the name Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG or Bentone EW CE by the company Elementis, or stearalkonium hectorites, such as Bentone 27 V. In some cases, the clay is preferably disteardimonium hectorite.

Mention may also be made of quaternium-18 bentonites, such as those sold under the names Bentone 34 by the company Elementis, Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst and Claytone 40 by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay; or 18-quaternium/benzalkonium bentonites, such as that sold under the name Claytone HT by Southern Clay. In some cases, it is preferable that the clay be chosen from organophilic modified clays, in particular organophilic modified hectorites, in particular modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite).

Non-mineral thickening agents

The non-mineral thickening agents, if present, may be lipophilic or hydrophilic, i.e. they may be suitable for thickening an oily phase or an anhydrous composition or they may be suitable for thickening an aqueous phase or an aqueous composition. For anhydrous compositions, lipophilic thickening agents or thickening agents that thicken anhydrous (eg, oily) compositions are useful. Also, for aqueous compositions, hydrophilic thickening agents are useful.

Non-limiting examples of non-mineral thickening agents useful for thickening _{anhydrous compositions include C 12-22 alkyl} acrylate/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (INTELIMER), ethylene diamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer such than OLEOCRAFT LP-10-PA-(MV) sold by Croda, polyamide-8 such as OLEOCRAFT LP-20-PA-(MV) sold by Croda, C _{10 -C 30} alkyl polyacrylate such as INTELIMER IPA 13 -6 or INTELIMER IPA 13-1 NG Polymer sold by Air Products & Chemicals, nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer such as Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant sold by Dow Corning, or dextrin palmitate such as RHEOPEARL KL2-OR sold by Chiba Flour Milling.

Other non-limiting examples of non-mineral thickening agents useful for thickening anhydrous compositions include thickening polymers such as block copolymers of styrene with isoprene, butadiene, ethylene/propylene or ethylene/butylene, including including those currently available under the trade name KRATON, and in particular hydrogenated linear styrene/isoprene diblock copolymers. A related class of thickening polymers includes alpha-methylstyrene and styrene polymers, such as those marketed under the trademark KRISTALEX. Another thickening polymer includes alkyl-substituted galactomannan, available under the trademark N-HANCE AG. Non-mineral thickening agents useful for thickening anhydrous compositions can also include thickening polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone with polyethylene containing at least 25 methylene units, such as triacontanyl polyvinylpyrrolidone, under the trademark Antaron WP-660.

Non-mineral thickening agents useful for thickening anhydrous compositions can also include silicone elastomers. The silicone elastomers can be non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, emulsifying silicone elastomers, or a combination thereof. Non-emulsifying silicone elastomers include, but are not limited to, organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain hydrophilic chains, such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated chains. On the other hand, emulsifying silicone elastomers include but are not limited to polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.

i. Non-emulsifying silicone elastomers

The term "non-emulsifying" silicone elastomers defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain a hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated chains.

Non-emulsifying silicone elastomers include crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes which can be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst; either by a crosslinking condensation reaction by dehydrogenation between a diorganopolysiloxane containing terminal hydroxyl groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin; either by a crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a hydrolysable organopolysilane; either by thermal crosslinking of the organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking the organopolysiloxane using high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.

A non-limiting example of a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is the cross-linked polymer of dimethicone. In some cases, the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is a cross-linked silicone, for example a cross-linked polymer of dimethicone, a cross-linked polymer (dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone), a cross-linked polymer (dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone) a cross-linked polymer, (vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone), crosslinked polymer (lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone/bis-vinyl dimethicone), crosslinked polymer (C _30-45 alkyl) cetearyl dimethicone, crosslinked polymer cetearyl dimethicone, and a combination thereof. In some cases, a cross-linked polymer of dimethicone is particularly preferred.

In some cases, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane is obtained by an addition reaction by crosslinking (A2) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon, and (B2) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to a silicon, in particular in the presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in patent application EP 295 886, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

In some cases, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reacting dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy terminal groups and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A2) is the basic reactant for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking is carried out by an addition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence of catalyst (C2). Compound (A2) can be a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C ₂ -C ₄ ); the lower alkenyl group can be selected from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups can be located at any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A2) can have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure, but the straight chain structure is preferred. Compound (A2) may have a viscosity range from liquid to gummy state. Preferably, compound (A2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.

The organopolysiloxanes (A2) can be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethyl-siloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy terminal groups, dimethyl-siloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy terminal groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy terminal groups, dimethyl-siloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups, dimethylsiloxane-methyl-phenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing terminal trimethylsiloxy groups, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoro-propyl)polysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy terminal groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl-(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy terminal groups.

Compound (B2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in each molecule and is therefore the crosslinking agent of compound (A2).

In some cases, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (A2) and the number of silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms per molecule of compound (B2) is at least 4.

Compound (B2) can have any molecular structure, in particular a linear or branched chain structure, or a cyclic structure. Compound (B2) may have a viscosity at 25°C. ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular so as to have good miscibility with compound (A). Advantageously, compound (B2) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in compound (B2) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (A2) is in the range of 1:1 to 20:1.

Compound (B2) can be chosen from methylhydrogen-polysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups and dimethyl-siloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers.

Compound (C2) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, or the platinum on support.

The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably 1 to 100 parts by weight, in the form of clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds ( A2) and (B2).

Other organic groups can be bonded to the silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2) described above, for example alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and monovalent substituted hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

The non-emulsifying silicone elastomer according to the invention can be mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil so as to form a gel. In these gels, the non-emulsifying elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.

Non-emulsifying elastomers that can be used include those sold under the names DOWSIL EL-8048 from DOW (INCI: Isododecane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer), KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41 , KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44, USG-105 and USG-106 by Shin-Etsu Company, DC ₉₀₄₀ , DC ₉₀₄₁ , DC ₉₅₀₉ , DC ₉₅₀₅ , DC ₉₅₀₆ , DC5930, DC ₉₃₅₀ , DC ₉₀₄₅ and DC ₉₀₄₃ by Dow Corning, Gransil by Grant Industries, and SFE 839 by General Electric.

The total amount of non-emulsifying silicone elastomers present in the cosmetic compositions, if any, can vary but is typically about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the total amount of non-emulsifying silicone elastomers in the cosmetic compositions is about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0, 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, or about 1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

ii. Emulsification of silicone elastomers

The term “emulsifying silicone elastomer” designates a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain. For example, the emulsifying silicone elastomers can be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, polyglycerolated silicone elastomers and a combination thereof.

a. Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers: a polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer can be a crosslinked organopolysiloxane which can be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and a polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups. In particular, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A1) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B1) of polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence (C ₁ ) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in US Patent ^No. 5,236,986 and US Patent ^No. 5,412,004, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

The organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reacting a polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene) containing dimethylvinylsiloxy terminal groups and a methylhydrogen-polysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

The organic groups attached to the silicon atoms of compound (A1) can be alkyl groups containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as epoxy group, carboxylate ester group or mercapto group.

The compound (A1) can be chosen from methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups, cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups .

Compound (C ₁ ) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and the platinum on support.

In some cases, polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers can be formed from divinyl compounds, particularly polyoxyalkylenes having at least two vinyl groups, reacting with the Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.

Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers are often blended with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylenated elastomer can be in the form of non-spherical particles. Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are notably described in US Patent ^No. 5,236,986, US Patent ^No. 5,412,004, US Patent ^No. 5,837,793 and US Patent ^No. 5,811,487, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Additionally, useful polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomers include, but are not limited to, those sold under the names KSG-21, KSG-20, KSG-30, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330, KSG-340 and X-226146 by Shin-Etsu Company, and DC ₉₀₁₀ and DC9011 by Dow Corning Company.

b. Polyglycerol silicone elastomers: Polyglycerol silicone elastomers are typically crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes which can be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and polyglycerol compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, often carried out in the presence of a platinum catalyst. For example, in some cases, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of glycerolated compounds having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups , in particular in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst. In some cases, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reacting a polyglycerolated compound containing dimethylvinylsiloxy terminal groups and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and the crosslinking is carried out by an addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C). Compound (A) can be, for example, an organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule. Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure. In addition, compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C. ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to have good miscibility with compound (B).

The organic groups attached to the silicon atoms of compound (A) can be alkyl groups containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and monovalent substituted hydrocarbon-based groups such as epoxy group, carboxylic ester group or mercapto group. In some cases, it is preferable that said organic group be chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.

Compound (A) can thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups, dimethylsiloxane-methyl-hydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy terminal groups, cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methyl-hydrogenosiloxane copolymers and dimethylsiloxane-methyl-hydrogenosiloxane- laurylmethylsiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups.

Compound (B) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to formula (B') below:

CmH.2m-1-O-[Gly]n-CmH2m-1 (B’)

wherein m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from range from 2 to 50, preferably n being in the range from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and preferably being in the range from 2 to 5, and in particular equal to 3; Gly means:

- CH ₂ -CH(OH)-CH ₂ -O- or -CH ₂ --CH(CH ₂ OH)-O-

Often, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 4.

It may be advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturates in compound (B) is in the range of 1:1 to 20:1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black or plate on support. The catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably 1 to 100 parts by weight, in the form of clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds ( A) and (B).

Polyglycerolated silicone elastomers are often mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles. Such elastomers are described in particular in patent application WO 2004/024 798, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Among the polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, mention may be made of those sold under the names KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 and KSG-840 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The total amount of emulsifying silicone elastomers in the cosmetic compositions, if present, can vary but is typically in the range of 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the total amount of emulsifying silicone elastomers in the cosmetic compositions is about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 20% by weight, from about 1 to about 15% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, or from about 1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of non-mineral thickening agents may optionally be included to thicken aqueous compositions, including xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, Seneca acacia gum, sclera, agarose, pectin, gellan gum, hyaluronic acid. Furthermore, the one or more non-mineral thickening agents can be polymeric thickening agents such as, for example, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamide , the carbomer and the acrylate/ _{C 10-30 alkyl} acrylate crosslinked polymer.

Other non-limiting examples of various types of non-mineral thickening agents include:

Acid polymers carboxylic s

These polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more double carbon to carbon bonds and is derived from a polyhydric alcohol.

Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers useful herein include carbomers, which are acrylic acid homopolymers crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol. The carbomers are available under the name Carbopol.R ^TM . 900 from BF Goodrich (for example, Carbopol® 954). In addition, other carboxylic acid polymeric agents include Ultrez® 10 (BF Goodrich _{) and copolymers of C 10-30 alkyl} acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their short chain esters (i.e. C _{1 -4} alcohol), in which the cross-linking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known under the name of acrylate/C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers _and are commercially available under the name Carbopol.R ^TM . 1342, Carbopol® 1382, Pemulen TR-1, and Pemulen TR-2, from BF Goodrich. In other words, examples of carboxylic acid polymer thickeners useful herein are those selected from carbomers, acrylate/C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymers, and combinations thereof.

Cross-linked polyacrylate polymers

The compositions of this disclosure may optionally contain cross-linked polyacrylate polymers useful as thickening or gelling agents, including cationic and nonionic polymers. Examples of useful crosslinked nonionic polyacrylate polymers and crosslinked cationic polyacrylate polymers are those described in U.S. Patent ^No. 5,100,660, U.S. Patent ^No. 4,849,484, U.S. Patent ^No. 4,835,206, U.S. Patent No. ^4,628,078 , US Patent ^4,599,379 and EP 228,868, all of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Polyacrylamide polymers

The compositions of the present disclosure may optionally contain polyacrylamide polymers, in particular nonionic polyacrylamide polymers, including substituted, branched or unbranched polymers. Among these polyacrylamide polymers is the nonionic polymer bearing the CTFA designation polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the trade name Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation.

Other polyacrylamide polymers useful herein include multi-block copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of these multi-block copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H, from Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

The compositions may also contain thickening and texturizing gels of the type exemplified by the range of products called United Guardian's Lubrajel®. These gels have moisturizing, viscosifying and stabilizing properties.

Polysaccharides

A wide variety of polysaccharides can be helpful in this regard. “Polysaccharides” are gelling agents that contain a backbone of repeating sugar (i.e. carbohydrate) units. Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from the group consisting of cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and their combinations. Alkyl substituted celluloses are also useful in this area. Of the alkylhydroxyalkylcellulose ethers, the material with the CTFA designation cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose, is preferred. This material is sold under the trade name Natrosol® CS Plus by Aqualon Corporation.

Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3)-linked glucose units with one (1-6)-linked glucose every third unit, a commercially available example of which is Clearogel ^TM , supplied by CS11 from Michel Mercier Products Inc.

Erasers

Other thickening and gelling agents useful in this area include materials that are primarily derived from natural sources. Non-limiting examples of these thickening and/or gelling agents include gums such as those chosen from acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan , propylene glycol alginate, sclerotic gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, gum tragacanth, xanthan gum, and combinations thereof.

Non-limiting examples of water-soluble natural polymers include gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum karaya, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, sodium alginate, propylene glycol ester of alginic acid, carrageenan, farcelluran, agar, high methoxy pectin, low methoxy pectin, xanthine, chitosan, starch (e.g. starch derived from corn, potato, wheat, rice , sweet potato and tapioca, a-starch, soluble starch), fermentation polysaccharide (e.g. xanthan gum, pullulan, carciran, dextran), acid hetero-polysaccharide derived from the callus of plants belonging to Polyantes sp. (eg, tuberous polysaccharide), proteins (eg, sodium casein, gelatin, albumin), chondroitin sulfate and hyaluronic acid.

Non-limiting examples of water-soluble synthetic polymers include polyvinyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polymethacrylate, polyacrylic acid glycerol ester, carboxyvinyl polymer, polyacrylamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl methyl ether , polyvinylsulfone, maleic acid copolymer, polyethylene oxide, polydiallylamine, polyethyleneimine, water-soluble cellulose derivatives (e.g., carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium salt of cellulose sulfate), and starch derivatives (e.g., starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, British gum, acetyl starch, phosphate of starch, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch).

Volatile hydrocarbon oil(s)

The term "volatile hydrocarbon" means a hydrocarbon which is volatile at room temperature (25°C) and normal pressure (1 atm) and may include, for example, isododecane, isohexadecane. Volatile hydrocarbons can be in the form of an oil. The term "oil" designates a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at normal pressure (1 atm), and which, when it is introduced in a proportion of at least 1% by weight into water at 25° C., is not soluble in water or is so at a level of less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water. The term “hydrocarbon oil” is an oil comprising hydrogen and carbon atoms and not containing silicon atoms.

Suitable _volatile hydrocarbons include, but are not limited to, those having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and combinations _thereof , and in particular branched C ₈ to C ₁₆ alkanes such as C ₈ to C ₁₆ isoalkanes. (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the _oils sold under the trade names of ISOPAR or PERMETHYL, branched C ₈ to C ₁₆ esters such as isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate and combinations thereof. Preferably the volatile hydrocarbon oils have a flash point below 60°C.

In some cases, the skin firming composition includes at least one volatile hydrocarbon selected from isoparaffin, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane, undecane, tridecane, dodecane, isohexyl, isodecyl, neopentanoate or a combination thereof. In at least one case, isododecane and/or isoparaffins (eg, C _8-9 isoparaffin) are preferred. The skin firming composition can be formulated to include volatile hydrocarbons that do not contain silicon atoms.

The total amount of volatile hydrocarbons can vary, but is typically about 30-85% by weight, based on the total weight of the skin firming composition. In some cases, the total amount of volatile hydrocarbons is about 30 to about 80% by weight, about 30 to about 75% by weight, about 35 to about 85% by weight, about 35 to about 80% by weight, about 35 to about 75% by weight, about 40 to about 85% by weight, about 40 to about 80% by weight, about 40 to about 75% by weight, about 45 to about 85% by weight, about 45 to about 80 % by weight, about 45 to about 75 % by weight, about 50 to about 85 % by weight, about 50 to about 80 % by weight, about 50 to about 75 % by weight, about 55 to about 85 % by weight, about 55 to about 80% by weight, about 55 to about 75% by weight, about 60 to about 85% by weight, about 60 to about 80% by weight, about 60 to about 75% by weight, about 65 to about 85% by weight, about 65 to about 80% by weight, or about 65 to about 75% by weight, inclusive of ranges and subranges thereof, based on the total weight of the composition of ra firming of the skin.

Fatty compounds

In addition to the volatile hydrocarbon oils mentioned above, the skin firming compositions may optionally include one or more fatty compounds, in particular a non-volatile fatty compound. The total amount of fatty compounds present in the skin firming compositions, if any, can vary but is typically from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the skin firming composition. the skin. In some cases, the total amount of emulsifying fatty compounds in the skin firming compositions is about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 20% by weight, about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 4 to about 20% by weight, about 4 to about 15% by weight, about 4 to about 10 wt%, about 4 to about 5 wt%, including ranges and subranges thereof, based on the total weight of the skin firming composition.

Non-limiting examples of non-volatile oils include

i. hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene;

ii. hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids, for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grape, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides;

iii. oils of formula R ₉ COOR ₁₀ in which R ₉ represents a higher fatty acid residue containing from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R10 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, such as, for example, l Purcellin oil;

iv. linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as non-volatile liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petrolatum (petrolatum), polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam;

v. synthetic esters and ethers such as isopropyl myristate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols;

vi. fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol or oleyl alcohol;

vii. partially hydrocarbon and/or silicone fluorinated oils;

viii. silicone oils such as non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicone) which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethicones and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and their combinations.

In certain cases, the one or more fatty substances can be selected from polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, a mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, dimethicone and a combination of these.

Additional fatty compounds worth mentioning include fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, such as those discussed below.

fatty alcohols

The one or more fatty compounds can be glycerolated and/or oxyalkylenated, include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and/or be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols useful herein include those having from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms, from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and from about 14 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis-4-t-butylcyclohexanol, myricyl alcohol and a combination thereof. In some instances, the fatty alcohols include at least one of the following or may be selected from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol and a combination of these.

Saturated liquid fatty alcohols can be branched and optionally contain in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. In some cases, however, fatty alcohols are acyclic. Non-limiting examples of liquid saturated fatty alcohols include octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.

Unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols can include in their structure at least one double or triple bond. For example, fatty alcohols can include multiple double bonds (like 2 or 3 double bonds), which can be conjugated or unconjugated. Unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched and can be acyclic or include in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. Liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols can include or be selected from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol and undecylenic alcohol.

Non-limiting examples of solid fatty alcohols include saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their combination, l cetylstearyl alcohol.

Fatty esters

The fatty compounds of the skin firming composition can be liquid or solid fatty esters at 25° C., 1 atm. The fatty esters can include esters of a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid and/or of a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty alcohol. For example, the fatty compounds can include or be chosen from fatty acid monoesters and diesters, polyol esters, polyglycerol esters, polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate, dimer isostearate polyglycerol, ethylhexanoate, polyglycerol esters, and a combination thereof. These esters may be esters of C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and of C ₁ -C ₂₅ aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10. In one case, the fatty compounds comprise one or more fatty acid monoesters. For monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohols or acids from which the esters are derived is branched. Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isoacetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

In some cases, fatty esters are cetyl esters, such as esters of saturated fatty acids and fatty alcohols. For example, the fatty esters can include or be selected from cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyl myristate, myristyl stearate, cetyl myristate, stearyl stearate, cetyl ethylhexanoate and combinations thereof. In one case, the fatty esters can be one or more of the following elements or be chosen from isopropyl isostearate, n-propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, hexyl laurate, hexadecyl isostearate, hexydecyl laurate, hexyldecyl octanoate, n-propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate and combinations thereof. In another instance, the fatty esters include or may be selected from diisobutyl adipate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, di-2-heptylundecyl adipate, monoisostearic acid N-alkyl glycol, isoacetyl isostearate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl gum ester, oleyl oleate, octyldodecyl, decyl oleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, triethyl citrate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, isocetyl stearate, butyl stearate, diisopropyl sebacate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate , isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl palmitate, 2-heptylundecyl palmitate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, 2 -hexyldecyl, myristyl myristate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, ethyl laurate, hexyl laurate, diisostearyl malate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, and combinations thereof. In yet another instance, the skin firming composition includes one or more fatty compounds or may contain fatty compounds selected from cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, and combinations thereof.

Non-limiting examples of solid fatty acid esters and/or fatty acid esters which may be mentioned include solid esters obtained from C ₉ -C ₂₆ fatty acids and C 9 -C 26 fatty alcohols ₉ -C ₂₅ . Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate .

Non-limiting examples of liquid fatty acids include triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as triglycerides of liquid fatty acids containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or even e.g. sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil , avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, bancoul oil, coconut oil, camelina, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, shea oil and combinations thereof. In one case, the one or more fatty compounds include at least one of the following or are selected from fatty acid triglycerides, oils, mineral oil, alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, derivatives of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty acids, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, propylene glycol esters of fatty acids, butylene glycol esters of fatty acids, neopentyl glycol esters of fatty acids, esters of polyglycerol/glycerol of fatty acids, glycol diesters, ethylene glycol fatty acid diesters, fatty acid fatty alcohol esters, short chain alcohol fatty acid esters, fatty acid esters fatty alcohols, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, waxes, and a combination thereof. In another instance, the fatty compounds of the skin firming composition include one or more fatty acid triglycerides, such as caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Derivatives of ' fatty alcohol

The skin firming compositions may in some instances include fatty alcohol derivatives such as fatty alcohol alkyl ethers, fatty alcohol alkoxylates, fatty alcohol alkoxylate alkyl ethers, fatty alcohol esters and a combination of these. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, wherein the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of stearyl alcohol, wherein the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; steareth 1 to 10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of stearyl alcohol, i.e. a combination of fatty alcohols containing mainly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl ethers of ceteth, steareth and ceteareth compounds which have just been described; polyoxyethylene ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecylic alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylenic ethers of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers such as PPG-9-steareth-3, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG8-ceteth-1 and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and a combination of these. The liquid fatty ethers can be chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether. The non-liquid fatty ethers can also be chosen from dialkyl ethers and in particular diketyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or in combination.

Esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C ₄ -C ₂₆ non-sugar alcohols dihydroxy, trihydroxy , tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy can also be used. Mention may be made in particular of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, triisopropyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

Derivatives of ' Fatty acids

The skin firming compositions may, in some instances, include fatty acid derivatives. Fatty acid derivatives are defined herein to include fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols as defined above, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohol derivatives as discussed above when such derivatives of fatty alcohols have an esterifiable hydroxyl group, fatty acid esters of alcohols other than fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol derivatives described above, hydroxy fatty acids, and a combination thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives include ricinoleic acid, glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoa, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and a combination thereof.

Nonionic surfactant(s)

The skin firming composition can optionally include one or more nonionic surfactants. Although the skin firming composition is typically an emulsion when it contains one or more nonionic surfactants, the skin firming composition can also be anhydrous when it contains such nonionic surfactants.

The nonionic surfactant(s) may include one or more of the following: peg-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-dipolyhydroxystearate 2, dimethicone (and) peg/ppg-18/18 dimethicone, lauryl peg-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, and a combination thereof. The nonionic surfactant can be, for example, chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. The number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups of the listed compounds can range from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups can range from 1 to 30. Mention may be made of ethylene oxide and/or oxide copolymers propylene; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as for example from 1.5 to 4; sorbitan ethoxylated fatty acid esters comprising from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of plant origin; sucrose fatty acid esters; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono- or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of glycerol alkyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) polyglycosides; derivatives of N-alkyl (in C ₆ -C _{24 ) glucamine, amine oxides such as alkyl oxides (in C 10 -C 14 ) amines or N} -acyl oxides (in C ₁₀ - _C14 ) _{aminopropylmorpholine} ; and their combinations. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.

The nonionic surfactants can be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are preferably oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.

In some cases, the nonionic surfactant can be chosen from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives , preferably with an alkylene oxide number from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably C _{1 2 ,} fatty acids -C ₂₂ , and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, preferably C _{12 -C 22} fatty acids, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; sorbitol esters of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably C _{1 2} -C ₂₂ , fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably C _{12 -C 22} , fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with a number of alkylene from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar _ethers of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols; and their combinations.

Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters which may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid. , and combinations thereof, in particular those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups - such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and combinations thereof. As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, mention may be made in particular of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and combinations thereof. As glyceryl esters of alkoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, mention may be made, for example, of polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or glyceryl tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate. Mixtures of these surfactants, such as for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and Potassium stearate marketed under the name TEG1N by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE), can also be used.

Typically, the amount of nonionic surfactants included in skin firming compositions, when present, is in the range of about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8 % by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 6% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 4% by weight, about 3 to about 10% by weight, about 3 to about 8% by weight, about 3 to about 6% by weight, about 3 to about 5 wt%, about 3 to about 4 wt%, inclusive of all ranges and subranges thereof, based on the total weight of the skin firming composition.

Dispersant(s)

The skin firming composition can optionally include one or more dispersants. The dispersant may be chosen from polyoxyethylene glycol ethers or esters (POE/PEG ethers or esters) or polyoxypropylene glycol ethers or esters (PPG ethers or esters), sugar ethers or esters, glycerol ethers or esters or polyglycerol and ethoxylated glyceride esters (POE glycerol esters), polyhydroxystearic acid, or a combination thereof.

The dispersant can be chosen so as to protect various ingredients of the skin-firming composition, such as the coloring particles, which are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, against their aggregation or their flocculation when they are brought into contact with an aqueous composition. More generally, the dispersant can be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a combination of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities which have a strong affinity for the surface of the compounds to be dispersed. In some cases, the dispersant may be physically adsorbed onto the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In at least one case, the dispersant is selected from those having a hydrophilicity with an HLB of 10 or less, 7 or less, or 6 or less. The term “HLB of 10 or less” designates a surfactant having, at 25° C., an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), within the meaning of Griffin, less than or equal to 10. The dispersant can be nonionic and/or chosen from polyoxyethylene glycol ethers or esters (POE/PEG ethers or esters) or polyoxypropylene glycol ethers or esters (PPG ethers or esters), sugar ethers or esters, glycerol or polyglycerol ethers or esters and esters ethoxylated glycerides (POE glycerol esters) or combinations thereof.

Typically, the amount of dispersants included in skin firming compositions, when present, ranges from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1.5 to about 10% by weight, about 1.5 to about 8% by weight, about 1.5 to about 6% by weight, about 1.5 to about 5% by weight, about 1.5 to about 4% by weight, inclusive of all ranges and sub-ranges thereof, based on the total weight of the skin firming composition.

Water Soluble Solvents

The skin firming composition can include one or more water-soluble solvents. The term “water-soluble solvent” is interchangeable with the term “water-miscible solvent” and designates a compound which is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and which has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80% or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerine, C _{1 -4} alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols and any combination of these. In some cases, the skin firming composition includes one or more C _{1 -4} alcohols, for example, ethanol.

As examples of organic solvents, non-limiting mentions can be made of monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol , 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4- methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether diethylene glycol, mono-n-propyl ether of diethylene glycol, mono-iso-propyl ether of ethylene glycol, mono-iso-propyl ether of diethylene glycol, mono-n-butyl ether of ethylene glycol, mono ether -t-butyl ether of ethylene glycol, mono-t-butyl ether of diethylene glycol, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, monoethyl ether of propylene glycol, mono-t-butyl ether of propylene glycol, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene mono-iso-propyl ether gl ycol; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethylsulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane and a combination thereof.

Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1 ,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a combination of these. Polyol compounds can also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2 -methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl -1,3-hexanediol, and a combination thereof.

The total amount of water-soluble solvents present in the skin firming composition, if any, can vary, but is typically about 0.01 to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the skin firming composition. firming of the skin. In some cases, the total amount of water-soluble solvents is about 0.01 to about 20% by weight, about 0.01 to about 15% by weight, about 0.01 to about 10 % by weight, from about 0.1 to about 25% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 25% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, or about 1 to about 8% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges thereof, based on the total weight of the skin firming composition.

Charge(s)

The skin firming composition can include a bulking agent typically in an amount of about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the skin firming composition. The filler may be present in the skin firming composition in an amount of about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1.5 to about 20% by weight, about 2 to about 20% by weight, about 2.5 to about 20% by weight, about 3 to about 20% by weight, about 3.5 to about 20% by weight, about 4 to about 20% by weight, about 4.5 to about 20% by weight, about 5 to about 20% by weight, about 6 to about 20% by weight, about 7 to about 20% by weight, about 8 to about 20% by weight, about 1.5 to about 13% by weight, about 1 to about 13% by weight, about 1.5 to about 13% by weight, about 2 to about 13% by weight, about 2.5 to about 13% by weight, about 3 to about 13% by weight, about 3.5 to about 13% by weight, about 4 to about 13% by weight, about 4.5 to about 13% by weight, about 5 to about 13% by weight, about 6 to about 13% by weight, about 7 to about 13% by weight , about 8 to about 13% by weight, about 0.5 to about 11% by weight, about 1 to about 11% by weight, about 1.5 to about 11% by weight, about 2 to about 11% by weight, about 2.5 to about 11% by weight, about 3 to about 11% by weight, about 3.5 to about 11% by weight, about 4 to about 11% by weight, about 4.5 to about 11% by weight , about 5 to about 11% by weight, about 6 to about 11% by weight, about 7 to about 11% by weight, about 8 to about 11% by weight, about 0.5 to about 9% by weight, about 1 about 9% by weight, about 1.5 to about 9% by weight, about 2 to about 9% by weight, about 2.5 to about 9% by weight, about 3 to about 9% by weight, about 3, 5 to about 9 wt%, about 4 to about 9 wt%, about 4.5 to about 9 wt%, about 5 to about 9 wt%, about 6 to about 9 wt%, about 7 to about 9% by weight, about 0.5 to about 7% by weight, about 1 to about 7% by weight, about 1, 5 to about 7% by weight, about 2 to about 7% by weight, about 2.5 to about 7% by weight, about 3 to about 7% by weight, about 3.5 to about 7% by weight, about 4 to about 7% by weight, about 4.5 to about 7% by weight, or about 5 to about 7% by weight, inclusive of all ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the firming composition the skin.

The sole filler can be nylon-12, cellulose, methacrylate cross-linked polymer (such as methyl methacrylate cross-linked polymer), silicone powder (such as polymethylsisesquioxane), silica, silica silylate, fumed silica and a combination thereof.

Additional fillers can include polyvalent silicates such as magnesium silicate, calcium silicate, aluminum silicate, polyvalent silicate clay, montmorillonite, bentonite, smectite and combinations thereof. For example, the filler may include magnesium aluminum silicate.

Soft Focus Powder

The skin firming compositions may optionally include soft focus powder. Soft focus powders are materials that have a soft focus effect, typically due to their light scattering properties on the skin. These powders typically have high diffuse reflectance, low specular reflectance and high diffuse transmission. Soft focus powders give the skin a smoother appearance, for example by reducing the difference in luminosity between the hollow and the edges of wrinkles and imperfections.

Non-limiting examples of soft focus powders include powders of natural or synthetic origin such as mica, titanium mica, alumina, titanium dioxide, sericite, talc/titanium dioxide/alumina/ silica, polyamide, poly(methyl meth)acrylate), polyethylene powder, polymethylsilsesquioxane powder, cross-linked polymer-2 of sodium acrylates and a combination thereof. Other non-limiting examples include calcium aluminum borosilicate (LUXSIL), PMMA (Microsphere M-100), polyethylene (POLYETHYLENE Cl 2080), cross-linked polymer of methyl methacrylate (COVABEADS LH85), nylon -12 (ORGASOL 2002), or ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer (FLOBEADS EA209). In some cases, the skin firming compositions include at least one soft focus powder selected from the group consisting of silica which may or may not be coated, fumed silica, silica silylate, talc/titanium dioxide/alumina/ silica, polyamide (nylon), poly(methyl meth)acrylate), polyethylene powder, polymethylsilsesquioxane powder, waxes, such as copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, nylon-12, cellulose, polylactic acid, boron nitride, and a combination thereof. Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax can be supplied as a non-aqueous and alcoholic dispersion. The dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer can be supplied in the form of a silicone dispersion (INCI: Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) C _{1 2-14} Pareth-12). In some cases, the soft focus powder is (or includes) Cross-Linked Polymer-2 of Sodium Acrylates, which is commercially available as AQUAKEEP 10SH-NFC as Cross-Linked Polymer-2 of Sodium Acrylates (and) water (and) silica.

The total amount of soft focus powder, if present, can vary but is typically about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the skin firming composition. In some cases, the total amount of soft focus powder is about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, about 0.1 to about 18% by weight, about 0.1 to about 16% by weight, about 0, 1 to about 15% by weight, about 0.1 to about 14% by weight, about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 18% by weight, about 1 to about 16% by weight, about 1 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 14% by weight, about 1 to about 12% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, or about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 20% by weight, about 2 to about 18% by weight, about 2 to about 16% by weight, about 2 to about 14% by weight, about 2 to about 12% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 4 to about 20% by weight, about 4 to about 18% by weight, about 4 to about 16% by weight, about 4 to about 14 wt%, about 4 to about 12 wt%, about 4 to about 10 wt%, about 4 to about 8 wt%, including ranges and subranges thereof, based on of the total weight of the skin firming composition.

Active agents for the skin

The skin firming compositions may optionally include one or more skin active agents, such as anti-aging agent, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-puffiness agent, concealer agents, antioxidants, humectants, moisturizers, depigmenting agents and/or agents for the treatment of oily skin, etc. The skin active agents can be included in the skin firming composition in a range from greater than zero to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of skin active agents can be greater than zero to about 9% by weight, greater than zero to about 8% by weight, greater than zero to about 7% by weight, more zero to about 6% by weight, greater than zero to about 5% by weight, greater than zero to about 4% by weight, greater than zero to about 3% by weight, greater than zero to about 2% by weight, about 10 ppm to about 10 wt%, (100,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 5 wt% (50,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 2.5 wt% (25,000 ppm) , about 10 ppm to about 1% by weight (10,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.5% by weight (5,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.3% by weight (3,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.2 wt% (2000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.1 wt% (1000 ppm), about 10 ppm to 500 ppm; about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2.5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.5% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4 % by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 6% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 4% by weight, about 3 to about 10% by weight, about 3 to about 8% by weight, about 3 to about 6% by weight, about 3 to about 5% by weight, about 4 to about 10% by weight, about 4 to about 8% by weight, or about 4 to about 6% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the skin firming composition.

A non-limiting discussion of skin active agents which may, in some cases, be included in the skin firming composition is provided below:

Humectants and/or moisturizing ingredients

Examples of humectants and/or moisturizing ingredients include glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, pidolate sodium, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, homopolymers of acrylic acid in the form of Lipidure-HM from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan Mibelle-AG-Biochimie, a combination of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran sold by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids, C-glycoside derivatives, in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a 30% by weight solution of active ingredient in a combination water/propylene glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by the company Chimex under the trade name "Mexoryl SBB", a rosehip oil marketed by Nestlé, an extract of micro-algae Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc, marketed under the name of Vincience Algualane Zinc collagen spheres and chondroitin sulphate of marine origin (Atelocollagen) sold by the company Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres, spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon, and arginine.

Depigmenting agents

Depigmenting agents which may be incorporated into the skin firming composition include those selected from alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisque acid, homogentisque, gentisate or methyl homogentisate, dioic acid, calcium sulfonate of D pantheine, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, certain compounds derived from plants such as chamomile, bearberry, aloe family (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap, water kiwi (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of the root of Paeonia suffruticosa, such as that sold by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Liquid Botanpi Be an extract of brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) such as the extract of molasses marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Liquid Molasses, without this list is exhaustive. Particular depigmenting agents include alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, D pantheine calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, an aquatic kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a root extract of Paeonia suffruticosa, such as that sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

Anti-wrinkle active

The skin firming composition can include one or more anti-wrinkle active agents. The term “anti-wrinkle active” designates a natural or synthetic compound producing a biological effect, such as increasing the synthesis and/or the activity of certain enzymes, when it is brought into contact with an area of wrinkled skin, which has the effect of reducing the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines. The exemplary anti-wrinkle active agents can be chosen from: desquamation agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes, or stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes, muscle relaxants and/or dermo-decontracting agents, anti-free radical agents and combinations thereof. Some examples of these compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives and retinoids other than retinol (as discussed above, such as retinol palmitate), ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and glucoside ascorbylic; caffeine; nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives as described in particular in document EP-1345919, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside- 2-hydroxy-propane as described in particular in document EP-1345919, plant extracts including sea fennel and olive leaf extracts, as well as plant hydrolysates and their derivatives such as rice protein hydrolysates or soy protein; extracts of seaweed and in particular of laminaria, bacterial extracts, sapogenins such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants, in particular wild yam, comprising: a-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their acylated derivatives, in particular {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl)-amino]-3-methyl}acetic acid and lipopeptides marketed by the company under the trade names SEDERMA Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene, manganese and magnesium salts, in particular gluconates, and combinations thereof. In at least one case, the skin-firming composition includes derivatives of adenosine, such as non-phosphate derivatives of adenosine, such as in particular 2′-deoxyadenosine, 2′,3′-adenosine isopropylidene; toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside and 6-chloropurine riboside. Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as phenylisopropyl adenosine ("PIA"), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro- N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N 6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxyethyl) phenethyl-amino-5'-N-ethylcarboxamidoadenosine (CGS-21680 ), N-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and metrifudil.

Anti-aging active ingredients

The skin firming composition can include one or more anti-aging active agents. The anti-ageing active agents can also include at least one hydroxy acid chosen from alpha, beta or polyhydroxy acids. Thus, in various embodiments, a hydroxy acid may be selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, galactose and combinations thereof.

Active agent for oily skin

The skin firming composition may optionally include a skin active agent which targets oily skin. These agents can be sebum-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands. Active agents for oily skin include, for example, retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or) chloride, selenium, glasswort - cinnamon extract mixtures, tea and octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic - the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine marketed in particular by Seppic under the trade name Sepicontrol A5 ---zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate ), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; --derivatives in particular of copper and copper pidolate such as Cuivridone Solabia--plant extracts of Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha pipenta Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed for example by Maruzen--extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria), such as that sold under the name of Sebonormine by Silab--extracts of the seaweed Laminaria saccharina, such as that sold under the name of Phlorogine by Biotechmarine--the extracts of roots of mixtures of burnet (Sanguisorba officinalis/Poterium officinale), rhizomes of ginger (Zingiber officinalis) and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as those sold under the name Sebustop by Solabia--linseed extracts such as than those sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer--Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by Maruzen or Oubaku l iquid B by Ichimaru Pharcos- -argan oil blends; extracts of Serenoa serrulata (serrulata) and sesame seeds such as that sold under the name Regu SEB by Pentapharm; mixtures of extracts of willowherb, Terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as that sold under the name Seborilys Green Tech; --extracts of Pygeum afrianum such as those sold under the name Pygeum afrianum; - extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International, and those sold by the company Euromed; - extracts of mixtures of plantains, Berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate such as that sold under the name Seboclear Rahn--clove extract such as that sold under the name Clove extract powder by Maruzen--argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl Serobiological Laboratories; lactic protein filtrates, such as those sold under the name Normaseb by Sederma--extracts of laminar algae, such as those sold under the name Laminarghane by Biotechmarine--oligosaccharides from the seaweed Laminaria digitata, such as that sold under the name of Phycosaccharide AC by the company Codif--sugar cane extracts such as that sold under the name of Policosanol by the company Sabinsa, sulphonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name of Ichthyol Pale by the company Ichthyol-- extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name of Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol--sebacic acid, specially sold in the form of sodium polyacrylate gel under the name of Sebosoft by Sederma--glucomannans extracted from the tuber of konjac and modified with alkylsulfonate chains such as that sold as Biopol Beta by Arch Chemical—extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold as Sophora powder or S ophora by Bioland — cinchona bark succirub extracts such as those sold as Red Bark HS by Alban Muller — Quillaja saponaria extracts such as those sold as Panama wood HS by Alban Muller — glycine grafted onto a indecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by SEPPIC — the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in gel form under the name AC. Net by Sederma; phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid tri-citrate (C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ ) sold _{under the} name COSMACOL.RTM. ECI by Sasol; trialkyl (C ₁₄ -C ₁₅ ) _citrate sold under the name _COSMACOL.RTM . ECL by Sasol; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, including hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid and 1,10-decanediol mixtures such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by Vincience and combinations thereof.

Antioxidants

Vitamin C and its derivatives may be used, including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, and the fat-soluble esters tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl-glucoside, glucosamine ascorbate, ascorbyl acetate, etc. In addition, plant extracts containing a high amount of vitamin C such as camu berry (Myrciaria dubia), acerola, emblica officinalis and bioflavonoids from rose hips and citrus can be used, including water-soluble bioflavonoids such as hesperidin methyl chalcone.

Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignan can also be added. Sesame and its lignans (fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame lignans dramatically increase vitamin E activity.

Other antioxidants include tocopherols (eg d-α-tocopherol, d-β-tocopherol, d-γ-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (eg d-α-tocotrienol, d-β- tocotrienol, d-γ.-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol) and vitamin E (α-tocopherol acetate). These compounds can be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means, or combinations thereof. Tocotrienol-enriched vitamin E preparations can be obtained by fractionating vitamin E preparations to remove some of the tocopherols and recover a more highly concentrated tocotrienol preparation. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated, for example, from wheat, cereal or palm germ oil by high performance liquid chromatography, or isolated by alcohol extraction and/or molecular distillation of barley, brewers grains or oats. The term “tocotrienols” includes the tocotrienol-rich fractions obtained from these natural products as well as the pure compounds. The increased activity of glutathione peroxidase protects the skin from oxidative damage.

Additionally, carotenoids, especially those of the xanthophyll type, are also useful antioxidants that can be utilized. Xanthophyll-like carotenoids include molecules such as lutein, canthaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Xanthophylls protect compounds, such as vitamin A, vitamin E and other carotenoids.

Flavonoids

The active agent can be an antioxidant chosen from the group of flavonoids. In some cases, the flavonoid is a flavanone (derived from 2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: Butin, eriodictyol, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeriodictyol, isosakuranetin, naringenin, naringin, pinocembrin, poncirin, sakuranetin, sakuranine and sterubin. The flavonoid may be a flavanonol (derived from 3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavanols include: taxifolin, aromadrine, chrysandroside A, chrysandroside B, xeractinol, astilbine and fustin. The flavonoid may be a flavone (derived from 2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: apigenin, luteolin, tangeritin, chrysin, baicalein, scutellarein, wogonin, synthetic flavones: diosmin, and flavoxate. The flavonoid may be a flavonol (derived from 3-hydroxy-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, azaleatin, fisetin, galangin, gossypetin, kaempferide, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, natsudaidine, pachypodol, quercetin, rhamnazine, rhamnetin, azalein, hyperoside, isoquercitin, kaempferitrin, myricitrin, quercitrin, robinin, rutin, spiraeoside, xanthorhamnine, amurensin, icariin, and troxerutin. The flavonoid may be a flavan-3-ol (derived from 2-phenyl-3,4-dihydro-2H-chromen-3-ol). Flavan-3-ols include: catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epiafzelechin, fisetinidol, guibourtinidol, mesquitol and faucetinidol. The flavonoid may be a flavan-4-ol (derived from 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: apiforol and luteoforol. The flavonoid may be an isoflavone (derived from 3-phenylchromen-4-one). Isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, biochanin A, formononetin and the Equol metabolite of daidzein.

The antioxidant can be an anthocyanidin (derived from the 2-phenylchromenylium cation). Anthocyanidins include: aurantinidin, cyanidin, delphinidin, europinidin, luteolinidin, pelargonidin, malvidin, peonidin, petunidin, rosinidin and xanthone.

The antioxidant can be a dihydrochalcone (derived from 1,3-diphenyl-1-propanone). Dihydrochalcones include: phloretin, dihydrochalcone phlorizine, aspalathin, naringin dihydrochalcone, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, and nothofagin. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, dihydrochalcones can exert an antioxidant effect by reducing reactive free radicals, such as reactive oxygen and nitrogen species.

The antioxidant may be an anthocyanin. Anthocyanins and their derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins encompass a class of flavonoid compounds that are naturally occurring water-soluble compounds responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains, and flowers. Also, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Inhibition of collagenase contributes to the increase of skin elasticity, prevention and reduction of wrinkles, etc., which are caused by a reduction of collagen in the skin. Anthocyanins can be obtained from any part of various plant sources, such as fruit, flower, stem, leaves, root, bark or seeds. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that certain parts of the plant may contain naturally higher levels of anthocyanins and therefore these parts are used to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some cases, antioxidants may include one or more betacyanins. Betacyanins, like anthocyanins, can be obtained from natural sources and are antioxidants.

The antioxidant can be a phenylpropanoid (derived from cinnamic acid). Phenylpropanoids include: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans ferulic acid (including its pharmacore antioxidant 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenome), 5-hydroxyferulic acid, sinapic acid, coumaryl alcohol, coniferyl alcohol, sinapyl alcohol, eugenol, chavicol, safrole, P-coumaric acid and sinapinic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, phenylpropanoids can neutralize free radicals.

The antioxidant can be a chalcone (derived from 1,3-diphenyl-2-propene-1-one). Chalcones include: butein, okanine, carthamine, marein, sophoradine, xanthohumol, flavokavain A, flavokavain B, flavokavain C, and synthetic safalcone.

The antioxidant may be a curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, desmethoxycurcumin, bis-desmethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids. Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids can be derived from Curcuma longa rhizomes. Tetrahydrocurcumin, a metabolite of curcumin, has been shown to be a stronger and more stable antioxidant than curcumin.

The antioxidant may be a tannin. Tannins include: tannin, terflavin B, glucogallin, D-gallic acid and quercitannic acid.

The antioxidant may be a stilbenoid. Stilbenoids include: resveratrol, pterostilbene and piceatannol. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4'-trihydroxystilbene, 3,4,3',5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (piceatannol), 2,3',4,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene ( oxyresveratrol), 4,4'-dihydroxystilbene, and alpha and beta-glucoside, galactoside and mannoside derivatives thereof.

The antioxidant can be a coumarin (derivatives of 2H-chromen-2-one). Coumarins include: 4-hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, aesculetin, herniarin, aurapten and dicoumarol.

The antioxidant may be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include: beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein and idebenone. Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignan can also be added. Sesame and its lignans (fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame lignans dramatically increase vitamin E activity.

The antioxidant can be: xanthone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2,6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2,4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, alpha-lipoic acid, ellagic acid, acid chicoric, chlorogenic acid, rosmarinic acid, salicylic acid, acetylcysteine, S-allyl cysteine, barbigerone, chebulagic acid, edaravone, ethoxyquin, glutathione, hydroxytyrosol, idebenone, melatonin, N-acetylserotonin, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, oleocanthal, oleuropein, paradol, piceatannol, piceatannol probucol, propyl gallate, protocatechuic acid, pyritinol, rutin, secoisolariciresinol diglucoside, sesamin, sesamol, silibinin, silymarin, theaflavin, theaflavin digallate, thymoquinone, trolox, tyrosol, polyunsaturated fatty acids and sulfur-based antioxidants such as methionine or l lipoic acid.

Optional components

In one or more embodiments, the skin firming compositions described herein may contain one or more additional ingredients (additives and miscellaneous ingredients). Examples include, but are not limited to, surfactants, emulsifiers, thickeners (such as polysaccharide-based thickeners), other polymers, proteins, hydrolyzed proteins, amino acids, fragrance, concealers pH and preservatives. Further details regarding these additional ingredients are given below.

The skin firming composition according to the disclosure may comprise any additional ingredient suitable for use in skin firming compositions. These ingredients may include, but are not limited to, cosmetically acceptable solvents, silicone compounds, rheology modifiers such as acrylic polymers, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants or combinations thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or combinations, humectants and moisturizing agents, fatty substances other than the fatty substances claimed, emulsifying agents other than the fatty substances, fillers, structuring agents, propellants , glossing agents, conditioning agents, antioxidants or reducing agents, penetrants, sequestrants, perfumes, buffers, dispersants, conditioning agents, for example volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or not , ceramides, preservatives, opacifiers, sunscreen agents and age antistatic nts. Acids, for example citric acid, can affect the pH of the system, resulting in loss of elasticity.

The skin firming composition may also contain acidic and alkaline pH adjusters, which are well known in the art. These pH adjusters include, but are not limited to, sodium metasilicate, silicate compounds, citric acid, ascorbic acid, and carbonate compounds.

Processes

The skin firming compositions are particularly useful for improving the appearance of skin, especially human skin. When the skin firming compositions are applied to the skin, they provide immediate and lasting improvement in the appearance of the skin. The skin firming compositions are particularly useful for the methods of:

- reduction in the appearance of fine lines on the skin;

- reduction in the appearance of wrinkles on the skin;

- improvement in skin tone and/or improvement in evenness of skin tone;

- improvement of the softness and/or the suppleness of the skin;

- reduction in the appearance of puffiness in the eyes;

- reduction in the appearance of dark circles around and/or under the eyes;

- reduction in the appearance of pores and/or scars; and or

- increase in radiance, luminosity and/or shine of the skin.

Typically, an effective amount of a skin firming composition is applied to the skin to be treated, for example the skin of the face and/or neck. In some cases, it may be desirable to apply the skin tightening composition to the skin around (or below) the eyes. Skin firming compositions can be applied with the hands or using a brush, sponge, tissue, cotton swab, tissue or applicator ( for example, a pen or other device), etc. The amount needed to achieve the desired effect can be determined by the consumer.

EXAMPLES

Implementation of this disclosure is provided by the following examples. The following examples serve to elucidate certain aspects of the technology without being limiting in nature.

Example 1

(pigments)

Different pigments were evaluated to determine the effect of their additions on film quality. The pigments tested are listed in Table 1 below.

INCI (US/EU) TRADE NAME IRON OXIDES/TITANIUM DIOXIDE UNTREATED IRON OXIDES/TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) ISOPROPYL TITANIUM TRIISOSTEARATE ITT IRON OXIDES/TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE NAI MICA (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE TIMICA TERRA MICA (and) IRON OXIDES (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE MICA (and) IRON OXIDES (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE MICA (and) IRON OXIDES (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891) ON ALUMINA COATED WITH TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE COVALUMINE YELLOW IRON OXIDE (CI 77492) ON ALUMINA, COATED TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE MICRONIZED TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE COATED WITH RED IRON OXIDE (CI 77491) ON ALUMINA BLACK IRON OXIDE (CI 77499) ON ALUMINA, COATED TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE TITANIUM DIOXIDE COATED WITH SUPERHYDROPHILIC PHYTIC ACID PHYTIC ACID TREATED PIGMENTS (PHA) YELLOW IRON OXIDE WITH PHYTIC ACID SUPERHYDROPHILIC SURFACE TREATMENT RED IRON OXIDE WITH SUPERHYDROPHILIC PHYTIC ACID TREATMENT BLACK IRON OXIDE COATED WITH SUPERHYDROPHILIC PHYTIC ACID TREATMENT TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) SILICA (and) ALUMINA SYMPHOLIGHT IRON OXIDES (and) SILICA IRON OXIDES (and) SILICA IRON OXIDES (and) SILICA

The dispersibility of the pigments in water and isododecane was evaluated by adding pigments to a fixed amount of solvent and observing whether the pigments dispersed or separated from the solvent by floating on top, enveloping the solvent or sinking down.

Untreated iron oxides were not dispersible in isododecane, but partially dispersed in water. Traditional pigments with hydrophobic treatments were easily dispersible in isododecane, but not in water. The reverse was true for pigments treated with hydrophilic phytic acid and pigments coated with silica. The results are shown in Table 2 below.

INCI NAME COMMERCIAL REFERENCE DIPERSIBILITY WHITE YELLOW RED BLACK WATER IDD WATER IDD WATER IDD WATER IDD IRON OXIDES/TITANIUM DIOXIDE UNTREATED partial No partial No partial No partial No IRON OXIDES/TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) ISOPROPYL TITANIUM TRIISOSTEARATE ITT No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes IRON OXIDES/TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE NAI No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes ALUMINA (and) IRON OXIDES/TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE (and) SILICA DIMETHYL SILYLATE COVALUMINE No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes MICA (and) IRON OXIDES/TITANIUM DIOXIDE TIMICA TERRA No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes IRON OXIDES/TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) PHYTIC ACID AHP Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No IRON OXIDES/TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) SILICA SYMPHOLIGHT Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No

**IDD = Isododecane

Example 2

(Inventive and Comparative Examples)

Several prototype pigmented formulas were prepared using the following general procedure in a speed mixer:

1. Magnesium sulfate was added to water in a bowl of a speed blender.

1. Hydrophilic pigments (if present) have also been dispersed in the water at this stage.

2. Preservatives, surfactants, dispersant and film former (dispersed in isododecane) were added to the aqueous mixture from step 1 in the same speed mixer tank.

1. The mixture was mixed at 2500 rpm for 3 minutes.

3. The silicone elastomer and isododecane were added to the emulsion from step 2.

1. Traditional pigments (if present) have also been added at this stage.

2. The mixture was mixed at 2500 rpm for 3 minutes.

4. Powder thickeners and soft focus powders were added to the emulsion from step 4.

1. The mixture was mixed at 2500 rpm for 3 minutes.

EXAMPLE COMPARATIVE INVENTIVE PIGMENTS NONE OIL-DISPERSABLE PIGMENTS WATER DISPERSABLE PIGMENTS HYBRIDS Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Example 1 Example 2 % PIGMENTS 0 5 5 5 INGREDIENTS % % % % MAGNESIUM SULFATE 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 WATER 16.13 16.13 16.13 16.13 PHENOXYETHANOL, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, and ALCOHOL 3.20 3.20 3.20 3.20 LAURYL PEG-9 POLYDIMETHYLSILOXYETHYL DIMETHICONE 1.49 1.49 1.49 1.49 DIMETHICONE (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 DIMETHICONE 1.99 1.99 1.99 1.99 POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID 1.99 1.99 1.99 1.99 ACRYLATES/ISOBORNYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER 10.69 10.69 10.69 10.69 PIGMENTS (OILY PHASE) 5.00 2.50 PIGMENTS (AQUEOUS PHASE) 5.00 2.50 CROSS LINKED POLYMER DIMETHICONE 4.41 4.41 4.41 4.41 ISODODECANE 56.07 51.07 51.07 51.07 SILICA SILYLATE (AIRGEL) 3.03 3.03 3.03 3.03 CROSS-LINKED POLYMER SODIUM-2 ACRYLATES (and) WATER (and) SILICA 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 TOTAL 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00

The formulations were analyzed, in vitro , for their performance compared to formulations that 1) did not include pigments, and 2) included traditional oil-phase pigments. Briefly, the formulation was applied with the fingers, simulating application to the skin, on a stretch fabric at a rate of 10 mg/cm ² . The formula was allowed to dry for at least 3 hours before testing. Film quality was observed visually. The internal stress was controlled by the level of looping of the substrate. The film on stretch fabric was then stretched 25% and evaluated for any cracks in the film. Additionally, the coverage potential of formulas with different pigment systems was assessed by calculating the color difference (ΔE) between a continuous film stretched over a black and white contrast card. The films have been stretched to have a uniform thickness across the entire surface that covers the black and white halves of the contrast map. The L*a*b* color space values were measured on the film on the black and white halves of the contrast map and ΔE ws was calculated using formula 1.

It was observed that the pigment-free formula film (i.e. Ex. Comp.1) exhibited internal tension, smoothness, and a hazy appearance with minimal or no stretch cracking, and a minimal coverage or no coverage (high Delta E). Films of conventional pigment formulations (i.e. Comp. Ex. 2; e.g. untreated - iron oxides/titanium dioxide, NAI - iron oxides/titanium dioxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide or ITT - iron oxides/titanium dioxide (and) isopropyl titanium triisostearate, covalumine -alumina (and) iron oxides/titanium dioxide (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) dimethyl silica silicate , Timica Terra - mica (and) iron oxides/titanium dioxide) which can be dispersed in the oil phase, had high coverage (low Delta E), but a compact appearance compared to the untinted formula and visible cracking at stretch, indicating the fragile nature of the film. Cracks in films containing traditional pigments affect their mechanical and optical performance and their durability. However, the compositions of the present disclosure (i.e., Ex. 1 and Ex. 2) provided good color coverage (low to medium Delta E) without impairing the mechanical integrity of the films, by the introduction of water-phase pigments to replace or complement oil-phase pigments. These films are therefore comparable to untinted films in terms of mechanical performance while offering coverage comparable to that of formulas with traditional pigments.

At equal concentration in the formulas, traditional pigments have a higher level of coverage, represented by lower ΔE values, than hydrophilic pigments alone in the internal aqueous phase. However, this problem can be alleviated by increasing the level of hydrophilic pigments, or by dividing the water-phase and oil-phase pigments while keeping the level of oil-phase pigments low enough to avoid film breakage. This effect results in increased coverage or lower ΔE values of films with a higher amount of waterborne pigments and those with hybrid pigment systems.

The results are shown in Table 4 below.

PIGMENTS % PHASE FILM APPEARANCE INTERNAL CONSTRAINT CRACKING ΔE Comparative None 0 N / A Homogeneous and uniform film 3 1 67 Untreated 5 Oil Compact film, pigment aggregation 2 5 4 NAI 5 Oil Compact film, pigment aggregation 3 3 4 ITT 5 Oil Compact film, better dispersion of pigments than NAI, but persistence of compactness 3 3 1 Covalumine 5 Oil Good pigment dispersion, good coverage 3 2 11 Timica Terra 5 Oil Good dispersion of pigments 3 5 15 Inventive Sympholight 5 Water Good pigment dispersion, smooth film, natural look, moderate coverage 3 1 19 10 Water Good pigment dispersion, smooth film, natural look, good coverage 3 1 12 AHP 5 Water Good pigment dispersion, smooth film, natural look, sheared coverage 3 1 25 2.5% Sympholight + 2.5% Covalumine 5 Water+Oil Good pigment dispersion, smooth film, natural look, good coverage 3 1 11 2.5% PHA + 2.5% Covalumine 5 Water+Oil Good pigment dispersion, smooth film, moderate coverage 3 1 18

*Scale: 1: None, 2: Negligible, 3: Slight, 4: Moderate, 5: High

The foregoing description illustrates and describes the disclosure. Further, the disclosure only shows and describes the preferred embodiments but, as mentioned above, it is to be understood that it may be used in various other combinations, modifications and environments and is subject to change or modification. modifications in the scope of the concepts of the invention as expressed herein, depending on the above teachings and/or the skills or knowledge of those skilled in the art concerned. The embodiments described above are further intended to explain the best modes known to the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to use the disclosure in these or other embodiments and with the various modifications required by particular applications or uses thereof. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. It is also intended that the appended claims be construed as including other embodiments.

The term "INCI" is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a naming system provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.

In this document, all ranges provided are meant to include each specific range within the given ranges and the combination of sub-ranges between them. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc.

All components and elements positively presented in this disclosure can be negatively excluded from the claims. In other words, the skin firming compositions of this disclosure may be free or substantially free of all components and elements positively listed throughout this disclosure.

Some of the various component categories identified may overlap. In those cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, a fatty acid can be characterized as both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound. If a particular composition includes both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound, a single fatty acid will serve only as the nonionic surfactant or only as the fatty compound (the single fatty acid does not serve as both the nonionic surfactant and the fatty compound). fatty compound).

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are incorporated by reference, and for all intents and purposes, as if each publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of any inconsistency between this disclosure and any publication or patent application incorporated herein by reference, this disclosure prevails.

In this document, the terms "comprising", "having" and "including" are used in their open and non-limiting sense.

The terms "a", "an", "the", "the" and "the" are understood to include the plural as well as the singular. Thus, the phrase "a combination thereof" also refers to "combinations thereof". Throughout the disclosure, the term "a combination thereof" is used, following a list of items as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the items: "one or more items selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a combination thereof”. The phrase "a combination thereof" does not require that the combination include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a combination of two or more of the elements A, B, C, D, E and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "one or more items selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a combination of two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F.

The term “one or more” means “at least one” and therefore includes individual elements as well as mixtures/combinations.

Except in the working examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and/or reaction conditions may in any event be modified by the term "about", i.e. to +/- 5% of the indicated number.

The term "treating" (and grammatical variations thereof) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure to the surface of keratinous substrates such as the skin, in particular the skin of the head, face and neck.

The term "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein means that there is less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions. However, the compositions may include less than about 1% by weight, less than about 0.5% by weight, less than about 0.1% by weight, or none of the materials specified. All of the components shown herein may be optionally included or excluded from the compositions, methods, or kits. Where excluded, compositions/methods/kits may be free or substantially free of the component. For example, a particular composition may be free or substantially free of alkoxylated compounds, for example, ethoxylated thickening agents and/or ethoxylated surfactants. Also, a particular composition may be free or essentially free of sulfates, for example, sulfated surfactants.

The terms "film-forming polymer", "film-forming", "film-forming agent" are used interchangeably.

Claims (10)

A skin firming composition comprising:
A. an aqueous phase comprising:
To. from about 5 to about 40% by weight water;
b. at least one or more water-dispersible pigments;
B. an oily phase comprising:
To. at least 5% by weight of one or more hydrophobic film-forming polymers;
b. from about 1 to about 40% by weight of one or more thickening agents;
vs. from about 30 to about 85% by weight of one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils; And
wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the skin firming composition. A skin firming composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more oil-dispersible pigments. A skin firming composition according to claim 2, wherein the one or more oil-dispersible pigments are present at from about 1 to about 20% based on the total weight of the skin firming composition. The skin firming composition of claim 1 wherein the one or more water-dispersible pigments are present at from about 1 to about 20% by weight based on the total weight of the skin firming composition. skin. A skin firming composition according to claim 2, wherein the amount of water-dispersible pigment and the amount of oil-dispersible pigment is present from about 1 to about 20% by weight, based on weight total skin firming composition. A skin firming composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more water-dispersible pigments are selected from hydrophilic treated pigments. A skin firming composition according to claim 6, wherein the one or more water-dispersible pigments are selected from silica-coated hydrophilic pigments, phytic acid-coated hydrophilic pigments, PEG silane-coated hydrophilic pigments, hydrophilic pigments coated with sodium glycerophosphate, hydrophilic pigments coated with algin and a combination thereof. A skin firming composition according to claim 2, wherein the one or more oil-dispersible pigments are selected from untreated iron oxides/titanium dioxide, iron oxides/titanium dioxide (and) isopropyl triisostearate -titanium, alumina (and) iron oxides/titanium dioxide (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) silica dimethyl silylate, mica (and) iron oxides/titanium dioxide, iron oxides/titanium dioxide (and) stearoyl glutamate disodium (and) aluminum hydroxide, and a combination thereof. A method of improving the appearance of the skin comprising applying to the skin a skin firming composition according to claim 1. A skin firming composition comprising:
A. an aqueous phase comprising:
To. from about 5 to about 40% by weight water;
b. from about 1 to about 20% by weight of one or more water-dispersible pigments;
B. an oily phase comprising:
To. from about 5 to about 45% by weight of one or more hydrophobic film-forming polymers;
b. from about 1 to about 40% by weight of one or more thickening agents;
vs. from about 30 to about 85% by weight of one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils;
d. from about 0 to about 20% by weight of one or more oil dispersible pigments; And
wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition skin firming.