TWI811214B - 調配有多孔質粉末之防曬化妝料 - Google Patents
調配有多孔質粉末之防曬化妝料 Download PDFInfo
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- TWI811214B TWI811214B TW107112570A TW107112570A TWI811214B TW I811214 B TWI811214 B TW I811214B TW 107112570 A TW107112570 A TW 107112570A TW 107112570 A TW107112570 A TW 107112570A TW I811214 B TWI811214 B TW I811214B
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Abstract
本發明係提供一種化妝料,係油溶性之機能性成分與親油性多孔質粉體已分別安定地分散於水性介質中者。
本發明之化妝料,係含有:(A)親油性多孔質粉體、(B)內含有油溶性機能性成分之水中油型乳化粒子、(C)高分子分散劑、及(D)水性介質,於成分(A)之表面存在有成分(C),成分(A)及成分(B)係分別分散於成分(D)中。
Description
本申請案主張2017年04月27日申請之日本特許出願2017-087937號之優先權,並於此引用其內容。
本發明係關於一種調配有多孔質粉末之防曬化妝料。
一般而言,已知調配有親油性之多孔質粉體的化妝料,由於該粉體會吸收肌膚上隨著時間所分泌的皮脂,因此可抑制黏膩感的產生,並持續乾爽感。又,亦已知球狀的親油性多孔質粉體,藉由調節其折射率,而發揮使肌膚上之凹凸在視覺上變不明顯的效果(例如,毛孔修飾效果)。
由於如此之優點,親油性多孔質粉體大量調配於粉末化妝料中,而對於其他系之化妝料而言亦屬於期盼能以大量調配的成分。由於為親油性故多數的情況是調配於油相中,但藉由於表面附加特定的聚合物,亦開發了分散於水相中的技術(專利文獻1)。
以水相作為連續相的化妝料,由於呈現清爽的使用感,故特別適合於夏天使用的化妝料(例如防曬化妝料)。然而,由於紫外線吸收劑通常為油溶性,故若於在水相含有親油性多孔質粉體的化妝料中調配紫外線吸收劑,則紫外線吸收劑會被該粉體吸收而有無法發揮防禦紫外線效果的問題。
此現象並不限於紫外線吸收劑,而為油溶性之機能性成分整體共通的問題。
因此,要求使前述具有優異特性之親油性多孔質粉體、與油溶性之機能性成分分別安定地分散於水相中的技術。
專利文獻1:日本特開2010-132567號公報
本發明係有鑑於前述以往技術之課題所完成者,其課題在於提供一種化妝料,係油溶性之機能性成分與親油性多孔質粉體已分別安定地分散於水性介質中者。
本發明人為了達成上述目的而努力地進行研究,發現使機能性成分內含於水中油型乳化粒子中,並 且,使用特定之分散劑使多孔質粉體分散,藉此油溶性機能性成分不會被親油性多孔質粉體吸收,而能充分發揮其功能。
再者,發現調配紫外線吸收劑作為油溶性機能性成分,且調配黏度100mPa‧s以下的油分以使其保持於多孔質粉體之孔洞的至少一部分,藉此,可得具備毛孔修飾效果、乾爽感持續效果、防禦紫外線效果之全部效果的防曬化妝料,而完成本發明。
亦即,本發明係包含以下所述者。
[1]一種化妝料,係含有:(A)親油性多孔質粉體、(B)內含有油溶性機能性成分之水中油型乳化粒子、(C)高分子分散劑、及(D)水性介質,其中,於成分(A)之表面存在有成分(C),成分(A)及成分(B)係分別分散於成分(D)中。
[2]如前述[1]所記載之化妝料,其中,(A)親油性多孔質粉體係以交聯型聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯為主原料。
[3]如前述[1]或[2]所記載之化妝料,其中,(C)高分子分散劑係丙烯酸系聚合物。
[4]如前述[1]至[3]所記載之化妝料,其中,(A)親油性多孔質粉體之最大可吸油量,相對於該粉體而言,為100質量%以上。
[5]如前述[1]至[4]中任一項所記載之化妝料,其進一步含有黏度100mPa‧s以下的油分,該油分係被保持於成分(A)之孔的至少一部分。
[6]如前述[1]至[5]中任一項所記載之化妝料,其滿足下述式。
[(化妝料中之油分之含量(質量%))/(化妝料中之親油性多孔質粉體之含量(質量%))×100]/親油性多孔質粉體之最大吸油量(質量%)≦1
[7]如前述[6]所記載之化妝料,其於25℃之黏度為100000mPa‧s以下。
[8]如前述[1]至[7]中任一項所記載之化妝料,其中,成分(B)之油溶性機能性成分為紫外線吸收劑。
[9]如前述[1]至[8]中任一項所記載之化妝料,其進一步含有乳化劑。
[10]如前述[1]至[9]中任一項所記載之化妝料,其係分離為含成分(B)之上層、含成分(A)之下層、及由其他成分所構成之中間層的三層。
藉由本發明,可提供一種化妝料,其具有毛孔修飾效果與乾爽感持續效果,並且發揮來自油溶性機能性成分的效果。再者,藉由本發明,亦可提供一種防曬化妝料,其具備毛孔修飾效果、乾爽感持續效果、及防禦紫外線效果之全部效果。
第1圖係表示由試驗例2及試驗例3之化妝料所構成之塗布膜的吸收光譜之圖。
以下,說明本發明之較佳實施形態。又,本說明書中,“粉體”與“粉末”為同義。
(A)親油性多孔質粉體
本發明中可適合使用之親油性多孔質粉體,可舉例如交聯型聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、耐綸多孔質粉末等。該等粉末可含有數質量%以下之其他成分,例如氧化矽等。又,以球狀者為佳。為球狀時之平均粒徑,並無特別限定,可為0.1至100μm,較佳為0.5至50μm,更佳為1至20μm左右。
可使用材質本身為親油性者、或者材質為親水性且已以親油性物質塗敷者中任一者,當為塗敷者時,以就連孔內亦已親油化者為佳。
本發明所使用之親油性多孔質粉體的最大可吸油量,相對於粉體而言以100質量%以上為佳。此係因最大可吸油量與多孔質容積有密切的關係,且多孔質形態會對光的擴散性造成影響之故。因此,若最大可吸油量未滿100質量%,則光擴散效果不充分,而有無法得到充分之毛孔修飾效果的情形。
相對於化妝料總量,本發明中之親油性多孔質粉體的調配量為1至30質量%,較佳為1至20質量%。若少於1質量%,則會有損及毛孔修飾效果與乾爽感持續效果的情形,又,若超過30質量%則會有引起粉末分散不良的情形。
(B)油溶性機能性成分
可使用於本發明之油溶性機能性成分,可舉例如紫外線吸收劑、油溶性抗氧化劑等。又,本發明中所謂“油溶性”係指於25℃時對於蒸餾水之溶解度為10質量%以下的性質。
紫外線吸收劑,並無特別限定,可使用化妝料中所汎用者。可例示如苯甲酸衍生物、水楊酸衍生物、桂皮酸衍生物、二苯甲醯基甲烷衍生物、β,β-二苯基丙烯酸酯衍生物、二苯基酮衍生物、亞苄基樟腦衍生物、苯基苯并咪唑衍生物、三衍生物、苯基苯并三唑衍生物、苯甲醯亞胺酸(anthranil)衍生物、咪唑啉衍生物、亞苄基丙二酸酯衍生物、4,4-二芳基丁二烯衍生物等。以下,雖列舉具體例及商品名等,但本發明並不限定於該等。
苯甲酸衍生物可例示如對胺基苯甲酸(PABA)乙酯、二羥基丙基PABA乙酯、二甲基PABA乙基己酯(例如「Escalol 507」,ISP公司)、甘油PABA、PEG-25-PABA(例如「Uvinul P25」,BASF公司)、二乙基胺基羥基苯甲醯基苯甲酸己酯(例如「Uvinul A Plus」)等。
水楊酸衍生物可例示如胡莫柳酯(homosalate)(「Eusolex HMS」,LONA/EM Industries公司)、水楊酸乙基己酯(例如「NeoHeliopan OS」,Haarmann and Reimer公司)、二丙二醇水楊酸酯(例如「Dipsal」,Scher公司)、TEA水楊酸酯(例如「NeoHeliopan TS,Haarmann and Reimer公司)等。
桂皮酸衍生物可例示如甲氧基桂皮酸辛酯或甲氧基桂皮酸乙基己酯(例如「Parsol MCX」,Hoffmann-La Roche公司)、甲氧基桂皮酸異丙酯、甲氧基桂皮酸異戊酯(例如「NeoHeliopan E1000」,Haarmann and Reimer公司)、辛諾賽(Cinoxate)、DEA甲氧基桂皮酸酯、甲基桂皮酸二異丙酯、甘油基-乙基己酸酯-二甲氧基桂皮酸酯、4’-甲氧基亞苄基丙二酸二(2-乙基己基)酯等。
二苯甲醯基甲烷衍生物可例示如4-三級丁基-4’-甲氧基二苯甲醯基甲烷(例如「Parsol 1789」)等。
β,β-二苯基丙烯酸酯衍生物可例示如奧克立林(Octocrylene)(例如「Uvinul N 539」,BASF公司)等。
二苯基酮衍生物可例示如二苯基酮-1(例如「Uvinul 400」,BASF公司)、二苯基酮-2(例如「Uvinul D50」,BASF公司)、二苯基酮-3或(2-羥基-4-甲氧基苯基)苯基甲酮(例如「Uvinul M40」,BASF公司)、二苯基酮-4(例如「Uvinul MS40」,BASF公司)、二苯基酮-5、二苯基酮-6(例如「Helisorb 11」,Norquay公司)、二苯基酮-8(例如「Spectra-Sorb UV-24」,American Cyanamid公司)、二苯基酮-9(例如「Uvinul DS-49」,BASF公司)、二苯基酮-12等。
亞苄基樟腦衍生物可例示如3-亞苄基樟腦(例如「Mexoryl SD」,Chimex公司)、4-甲基亞苄基樟腦、亞苄基樟腦磺酸(例如「Mexoryl SL」,Chimex公司)、甲硫酸樟腦烷基二甲基苄基銨(例如「Mexoryl SO」,Chimex 公司)、對苯二亞甲基二樟腦磺酸(例如「Mexoryl SX」,Chimex公司)、聚丙烯醯胺甲基亞苄基樟腦(例如「Mexoryl SW」,Chimex公司)等。
苯基苯并咪唑衍生物可例示如苯基苯并咪唑磺酸(例如「EUS0LEX 232」,Merck公司)、苯基二苯并咪唑四磺酸二鈉(例如「NeoHeliopan AP」,Haarmann and Reimer公司)等。
三衍生物可例示如雙乙基己氧基苯酚甲氧基苯基三、Anisotriazine(例如「Tinosorb S」,CIBA Specialty Chemicals公司)、乙基己基三酮(例如「Uvinul T150」,BASF公司)、二乙基己基丁醯胺三酮(例如「Uvasorb HEB」,Sigma 3V公司)、2,4,6-參(4’-胺基亞苄基丙二酸二異丁酯)-均三等。
苯基苯并三唑衍生物可例示如甲酚曲唑三矽氧烷(drometrizole trisiloxane)(例如「Silatrizole」,Rhodia Chimie公司)、亞甲基雙(苯并三唑基四甲基丁基苯酚)(例如「TinosorbM」,CIBA Specialty Chemicals公司)等。
苯甲醯亞胺酸衍生物,鄰胺苯甲酸薄荷腦酯(menthyl anthranilate)(例如「NeoHeliopan MA,Haarmann and Reimer公司)等。
咪唑啉衍生物,可例示如乙基己基二甲氧基亞苄基側氧基咪唑啉丙酸酯等。
亞苄基丙二酸酯衍生物,可例示如具有亞 苄基丙二酸酯官能基的聚有機矽氧烷(例如,聚矽氧烷-15;「Parsol SLX」,DSM Nutritional Products公司)等。
4,4-二芳基丁二烯衍生物,可例示如1,1-二羧基(2,2’-二甲基丙基)-4,4-二苯基丁二烯等。
其中,較佳為二乙基胺基羥基苯甲醯基苯甲酸己酯、4-三級丁基-4’-甲氧基二苯甲醯基甲烷、奧克立林、苯基苯并咪唑磺酸、聚矽氧烷-15、(2-羥基-4-甲氧基苯基)苯基甲酮、甲氧基桂皮酸乙基己酯、雙乙基己氧基苯酚甲氧基苯基三、亞甲基雙苯并三唑基四甲基丁基苯酚、苯基苯并咪唑磺酸、乙基己基三酮,特別適合使用甲氧基桂皮酸乙基己酯、雙乙基己氧基苯酚甲氧基苯基三、亞甲基雙苯并三唑基四甲基丁基苯酚、苯基苯并咪唑磺酸、乙基己基三酮。
油溶性抗氧化劑,可舉例如類胡蘿蔔素、具有抗氧化作用之油溶性維他命等。
類胡蘿蔔素,可舉例如海葵赤醇(actinioerythrol)、還原蝦紅素、胭脂木酯、角黃素、辣椒紅素、辣椒玉紅素(capsorbin)、β-8’-衍-胡蘿蔔醛(apocarotenal)、β-12’-衍-胡蘿蔔醛、α-胡蘿蔔素、β-胡蘿蔔素、“胡蘿蔔素”(α-及β-胡蘿蔔素類的混合物)、γ-胡蘿蔔素、β-隱黃質(β-cryptoxanthin)、海膽烯酮(echinenone)、葉黃素、番茄紅素、堇菜黃質(violaxanthin)、玉米黃素等。
具有抗氧化作用之油溶性維他命,可舉例如維他命E、維他命A酸、抗壞血酸之油溶性衍生物等。
維他命E並無特別限定,可舉例如選自由生育酚及其衍生物所構成的化合物群、以及由生育三烯酚(tocotrienol)及其衍生物所構成的化合物群者。該等可單獨使用、亦可併用複數種。又,亦可組合選自由生育酚及其衍生物所構成的化合物群者、與選自由生育三烯酚及其衍生物所構成的化合物群者來使用。
維他命A酸,可舉例如視網醇、3-氫視網醇、視網醛、3-氫視網醛、視網酸、3-脫氫視網酸、維他命A乙酸酯等維他命A類;α-、β-、γ-胡蘿蔔素、β-隱黃質、海膽烯酮等類胡蘿蔔素、葉黃素等原維生素A類。
抗壞血酸之油溶性衍生物,可舉例如硬脂酸L-抗壞血酸酯、四異棕櫚酸L-抗壞血酸酯、棕櫚酸L-抗壞血酸酯、棕櫚酸異抗壞血酸酯、四異棕櫚酸異抗壞血酸酯、二油酸抗壞血酸酯等維他命C之脂肪酸酯類;二棕櫚酸吡哆醇酯、三棕櫚酸吡哆醇酯、二月桂酸吡哆醇酯、二辛酸吡哆醇酯等維他命B6之脂肪酸酯類等。
上述油溶性抗氧化劑之中,可適合使用乙酸生育酚、乙酸視網醇、視網醇、棕櫚酸視網醇。
本發明之化妝料中,(B)之油溶性機能性成分係以內含於水中油型乳化粒子中的狀態分散於(D)水性介質中。該水中油型乳化粒子可為微乳液(粒徑為100奈米以下,且熱力學上安定的乳液)。
又,相對於化妝料總量,本發明中之(B)之油溶性機能性成分的調配量可為0.01至30質量%,更佳為0.03至20 質量%。
(C)高分子分散體
本發明之化妝料,為了使(A)親油性多孔質粉體分散於(D)水性介質中,而調配有由高分子所構成的分散劑。可用於該目的之高分子,以丙烯酸系聚合物為佳,更可適合使用交聯型丙烯酸共聚物。
可適合使用於本發明之丙烯酸系聚合物,可舉例如:(甲基)丙烯酸正丁酯、(甲基)丙烯酸異丁酯、(甲基)丙烯酸三級丁酯、(甲基)丙烯酸2-乙基己酯、(甲基)丙烯酸正己酯、(甲基)丙烯酸正辛酯、(甲基)丙烯酸環己酯、(甲基)丙烯酸癸酯、(甲基)丙烯酸十一酯、(甲基)丙烯酸月桂酯、(甲基)丙烯酸十三酯、(甲基)丙烯酸肉豆蔻酯、(甲基)丙烯酸十五酯、(甲基)丙烯酸棕櫚酯、(甲基)丙烯酸十七酯、(甲基)丙烯酸硬脂酯、(甲基)丙烯酸異硬脂酯、(甲基)丙烯酸油酯、(甲基)丙烯酸二十二酯、具有直鏈狀、支鏈狀或脂環式之烴基的(甲基)丙烯酸酯;丙烯腈;丙烯醯胺、二丙酮丙烯醯胺、N,N-二甲基丙烯醯胺、N-三級丁基丙烯醯胺、N-辛基丙烯醯胺、N-三級辛基丙烯醯胺等(甲基)丙烯醯胺;2-(甲基)丙烯醯胺-2-甲基丙磺酸等含有磺酸基之(甲基)丙烯醯胺;(甲基)丙烯酸胺基乙酯、甲基丙烯酸三級丁基胺基乙酯、(甲基)丙烯酸甲基胺基乙酯等(甲基)丙烯酸烷基胺基烷基酯;(甲基)丙烯酸二甲基胺基乙酯、(甲基)丙烯酸二乙基胺基乙酯等(甲基)丙烯酸二烷基胺基烷基酯;二甲基胺基乙基(甲基)丙烯醯胺、二乙基胺基乙基(甲 基)丙烯醯胺等二烷基胺基烷基(甲基)丙烯醯胺;(甲基)丙烯酸四氫呋喃甲酯、(甲基)丙烯酸異莰酯、(甲基)丙烯酸環氧丙酯等環狀化合物與(甲基)丙烯酸的酯類;(甲基)丙烯酸乙氧基乙酯、(甲基)丙烯酸甲氧基乙酯等(甲基)丙烯酸烷氧基烷基酯;聚乙二醇單(甲基)丙烯酸酯、聚丙二醇單(甲基)丙烯酸酯等聚伸烷二醇與(甲基)丙烯酸的單酯類;含磺酸基之(甲基)丙烯酸酯;(甲基)丙烯醯氧基乙基磷酸酯等(甲基)丙烯醯氧基烷基磷酸單酯;(甲基)丙烯酸甘油酯、2-(甲基)丙烯醯氧基乙基琥珀酸、2-(甲基)丙烯醯氧基乙基酞酸、丙烯酸β-羧基乙基酯、琥珀酸丙烯醯氧基乙基酯、2-(甲基)丙烯醯氧基乙基四氫酞酸、2-(甲基)丙烯醯氧基乙基六氫酞酸;1,4-丁烷二醇二(甲基)丙烯酸酯、1,6-己烷二醇二(甲基)丙烯酸酯、乙二醇二(甲基)丙烯酸酯、聚乙(n=2至50)二醇二(甲基)丙烯酸酯、丙二醇二(甲基)丙烯酸酯、聚丙(n=2至50)二醇二(甲基)丙烯酸酯、丁二醇二(甲基)丙烯酸酯、二戊二醇二(甲基)丙烯酸酯、新戊二醇二(甲基)丙烯酸酯、三羥甲基丙烷二(甲基)丙烯酸酯、亞甲基雙丙烯醯胺、雙酚F之EO改質(n=2至50)二(甲基)丙烯酸酯、雙酚A之EO改質(n=2至50)二(甲基)丙烯酸酯、雙酚S之EO改質(n=2至50)二(甲基)丙烯酸酯、三羥甲基乙烷三(甲基)丙烯酸酯、三羥甲基丙烷三(甲基)丙烯酸酯、三羥甲基丙烷三己內酯三(甲基)丙烯酸酯、三羥甲基己烷三(甲基)丙烯酸酯、新戊四醇三(甲基)丙烯酸酯、新戊四醇四(甲基)丙烯酸酯、二甘油四(甲基)丙烯酸酯、二-三羥甲基丙烷四(甲基) 丙烯酸酯、二-三羥甲基丙烷四己內酯四(甲基)丙烯酸酯、二-三羥甲基乙烷四(甲基)丙烯酸酯、二-三羥甲基丁烷四(甲基)丙烯酸酯、二-三羥甲基己烷四(甲基)丙烯酸酯、二新戊四醇五(甲基)丙烯酸酯、二新戊四醇六(甲基)丙烯酸酯、三新戊四醇六(甲基)丙烯酸酯、三新戊四醇七(甲基)丙烯酸酯、三新戊四醇等。
又,交聯型丙烯酸共聚物,可舉例如丙烯酸‧甲基丙烯酸烷基酯共聚物((丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸烷基酯(C10-30))交聯聚合物等)。
其中,以丙烯酸‧甲基丙烯酸烷基酯共聚物為較佳,例如可適合使用(丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸烷基酯(C10-30))交聯聚合物。又,於本發明之化妝料中,可單獨使用上述高分子分散體,亦可組合2種以上來調配。
本發明之化妝料,係以(C)高分子分散劑圍繞(A)親油性多孔質粉體的周圍,並以該狀態良好地分散於(D)水性介質中。由於該(C)高分子分散劑係使親水基朝向外側(與(D)水性介質相接之側)而配向,故推測(B)內含有油溶性機能性成分之水中油型乳化粒子變得不易被(A)親油性多孔質粉體的孔吸收。
相對於化妝料總量,本發明中之高分子分散劑的調配量為0.005至2質量%,更佳為0.01至1質量%。若少於0.005質量%,則會有引起粉末的分散不良之情形,又,若超過2質量%,則會有損及乾爽的觸感之情形。
(D)水性介質
本發明中之水性介質,係含有水作為主成分的介質,可單獨為水,又,亦可含有低級醇及/或多元醇。
本發明中之水,可為離子交換水、精製水、自來水。
低級醇,可舉例如乙醇、丙醇、異丙醇等。
多元醇,可舉例如乙二醇、丙二醇、三亞甲二醇、1,2-丁二醇、1,3-丁二醇、四亞甲二醇、2,3-丁二醇等二元醇、甘油等三元醇。
又,上述多元醇,如後述,亦可作為保濕劑而調配。
在本發明之水性介質中,低級醇及多元醇所佔的比例為30質量%以下、更佳為25質量%以下。
相對於化妝料總量,本發明中之水性介質之調配量為10至80質量%,較佳為20至70質量%。若少於10質量%則會有引起粉末的分散不良之情形,又,若超過80質量%則會有損及乾爽的觸感之情形。
於本發明之化妝料中,可進一步適當地調配黏度為100mPa‧s以下的油分。藉由使該油分被保持於(A)親油性多孔質粉體之孔的至少一部分,該粉體的折射率會改變,而能發揮優異的毛孔修飾效果。
該油分並無特別限制,可使用極性油、非極性油等。又,油分整體之黏度若超過100mPa‧s,則會有難以被保持於親油性多孔質粉體中,而無法得到充分的毛孔修飾效果之情形。
極性油,可適合使用:肉豆蔻酸異丙酯、 辛酸鯨蠟酯、肉豆蔻酸辛基十二酯、棕櫚酸異丙酯、硬脂酸丁酯、月桂酸己酯、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯、油酸癸酯、二甲基辛酸己基癸酯、乳酸鯨蠟酯、乳酸肉豆蔻酯、乙醯化羊毛脂、硬脂酸異鯨蠟酯、異硬脂酸異鯨蠟酯、二-2-乙基己酸乙二醇酯、二新戊四醇脂肪酸酯、單異硬脂酸N-烷基二醇酯、二癸酸新戊二醇酯、二-2-庚基十一酸甘油酯、三羥甲基丙烷三-2-乙基己酸酯、三羥甲基丙烷三異硬脂酸酯、四-2-乙基己酸新戊四醇酯、三-2-乙基己酸甘油酯、三辛酸甘油酯、三異棕櫚酸甘油酯、三羥甲基丙烷三異硬脂酸酯、2-乙基己酸鯨蠟酯、棕櫚酸2-乙基己酯、三肉豆蔻酸甘油酯、三-2-庚基十一酸甘油酯、油酸油酯、乙酸甘油酯、棕櫚酸2-庚基十一酯、己二酸二異丁酯、己二酸二-2-庚基十一酯、月桂酸乙酯、癸二酸二-2-乙基己酯、肉豆蔻酸2-己基癸酯、棕櫚酸2-己基癸酯、己二酸2-己基癸酯、癸二酸二異丙酯、琥珀酸2-乙基己酯、檸檬酸三乙酯等酯油。
其中,當使用交聯型聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯作為親油性多孔質粉體時,特別可適合使用三2-乙基己酸甘油酯。
當使用極性油時,可抑制組成物黏度為較低,而可得接近於護膚組成物、特別是美容液、乳液的使用感(水潤感、不黏膩等)。
非極性油,可適合使用屬於鏈狀聚矽氧烷(例如,二甲基聚矽氧烷、甲基苯基聚矽氧烷、二苯基聚矽 氧烷等);環狀聚矽氧烷(例如,八甲基環四矽氧烷、十甲基環五矽氧烷、十二甲基環六矽氧烷等)、各種改質聚矽氧烷(胺基改質聚矽氧烷、聚醚改質聚矽氧烷、烷基改質聚矽氧烷、氟改質聚矽氧烷等)、丙烯酸聚矽氧類等且黏度未滿100mPa‧s者。
其中,特別可適合使用甲基聚矽氧烷、甲基苯基聚矽氧烷、液態石蠟。
當使用非極性油時,由於黏度較高,故可得到接近於凝膠狀護膚組成物的使用感。
又,油分量以滿足下述式為佳。
[(毛孔修飾組成物中之油分之含量(質量%))/(毛孔修飾組成物中之親油性多孔質粉體之含量(質量%))×100]/親油性多孔質粉體之最大吸油量(質量%)≦1
當油分量未滿足上述式時,會有無法得到毛孔修飾效果之情形。又,若油分量少於0.1倍,毛孔修飾效果會有變差之情形。
於本發明之化妝料中,除上述成分之外,亦可調配1種或2種以上一般用於化妝品、準藥品的成分,例如保濕劑、粉末成分(成分(A)除外)、液體油脂、固體油脂、蠟、烴油、高級醇、界面活性劑、增黏劑、糖類等。以下例示可調配的成分。
保濕劑,可舉例如聚乙二醇、丙二醇、甘油、1,3-丁二醇、木糖醇、山梨糖醇、麥芽糖醇、硫酸軟骨素、玻尿酸、硫酸黏液素、括樓子酸、去端肽膠原 (atelocollagen)、乳酸鈉、膽鹽、dl-吡咯啶酮羧酸鹽、短鏈可溶性膠原、二甘油(EO)PO加成物、繅絲花萃取物、洋蓍草萃取物、草木樨萃取物等。
成分(A)以外的粉末成分,可舉例如:無機粉末(例如,滑石、高嶺土、雲母、絹雲母(sericite)、白雲母、金雲母、合成雲母、紅雲母、黑雲母、蛭石、碳酸鎂、碳酸鈣、矽酸鋁、矽酸鋇、矽酸鈣、矽酸鎂、矽酸鍶、鎢酸金屬鹽、鎂、氧化矽、沸石、硫酸鋇、煅燒硫酸鈣(煅石膏)、磷酸鈣、氟磷灰石、羥基磷灰石、陶瓷粉末、金屬皂(例如,肉豆蔻酸鋅、棕櫚酸鈣、硬脂酸鋁)、氮化硼等);有機粉末(例如,聚醯胺樹脂粉末(耐綸粉末)、聚乙烯粉末、聚甲基丙機酸甲酯粉末、聚苯乙烯粉末、苯乙烯與丙烯酸之共聚物樹脂粉末、苯胍(benzoguanamine)樹脂粉末、聚四氟乙烯粉末、纖維素粉末等);無機白色顏料(例如,氧化鋅等);無機紅色系顏料(例如,鈦酸鐵等);無機紫色系顏料(例如,錳紫、鈷紫等);無機綠色系顏料(例如,氧化鉻、氫氧化鉻、鈦酸鈷等);無機藍色系顏料(例如,群青、普魯士藍等);珍珠色顏料(例如,經氧化鈦塗敷之雲母、經氧化鈦塗敷之氧氯化鉍、經氧化鈦塗敷之滑石、經著色氧化鈦塗敷之雲母、氧氯化鉍、魚鱗箔等);金屬粉末顏料(例如,鋁粉、銅粉等);鋯、鋇或鋁色澱等有機顏料(例如,紅色201號、紅色202號、紅色204號、紅色205號、紅色220號、紅色226號、紅色228號、紅色405號、橙色203號、橙色204號、黃色205號、黃色401號 及藍色404號等有機顏料、紅色3號、紅色104號、紅色106號、紅色227號、紅色230號、紅色401號、紅色505號、橙色205號、黃色4號、黃色5號、黃色202號、黃色203號、綠色3號及藍色1號等);天然色素(例如,葉綠素、β-胡蘿蔔素等)等。
其中,當調配高折射率(折射率2以上等)之無機粉體時,以設為在組成物中5質量%以下(較佳為1質量%以下)為宜。
液體油脂,可舉例如酪梨油、山茶花油、龜油、澳洲胡桃油、玉米油、貂油、橄欖油、菜籽油、蛋黃油、芝麻油、杏仁油、小麥胚芽油、茶梅油、蓖麻油、亞麻仁油、紅花子油、棉籽油、紫蘇油、大豆油、花生油、茶籽油、日本榧樹油、米糠油、泡桐油、日本桐油、荷荷芭油、胚芽油、三甘油等。
固體油脂,可舉例如可可脂、椰子油、馬脂、氫化椰子油、棕櫚油、牛脂、羊脂、氫化牛脂、棕櫚仁油、豬脂、牛骨脂、木蠟仁油、氫化油、牛腳脂、木蠟、氫化蓖麻油等。
蠟類,可舉例如蜂蠟、小燭樹蠟、棉蠟、棕櫚蠟、楊梅蠟、蟲蠟、鯨蠟、褐煤蠟、米糠蠟、羊毛脂、木棉蠟、乙醯化羊毛脂、液態羊毛脂、甘蔗蠟、羊毛脂脂肪酸異丙酯、月桂酸己酯、還原羊毛脂、荷荷芭蠟、硬質羊毛脂、蟲膠蠟、POE羊毛脂醇醚、POE羊毛脂醇乙酸酯、POE膽固醇醚、羊毛脂脂肪酸聚乙二醇、POE氫化羊毛脂 醇醚等。
烴油,可舉例如液體石蠟、地蠟、姥鮫烷(pristane)、石蠟、純地蠟、鯊烯、凡士林、微晶蠟等。
高級脂肪酸,可舉例如月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕櫚酸、硬脂酸、二十二酸、油酸、十一烯酸、松油酸、異硬脂酸、亞麻油酸、次亞麻油酸、二十碳五烯酸(EPA)、二十二碳六烯酸(DHA)等。
高級醇,可舉例如直鏈醇(例如,月桂醇、鯨蠟醇、硬脂醇、二十二醇、肉豆蔻醇、油醇、鯨蠟硬脂醇等);支鏈狀醇(例如,單硬脂基甘油醚(鯊肝醇)、2-癸基十四炔醇、羊毛脂醇、膽固醇、植物固醇、己基十二醇、異硬脂醇、辛基十二醇等)等。
又,於本發明之化妝料中,亦可調配各種界面活性劑作為乳化劑。
陰離子界面活性劑,可舉例如:脂肪酸皂(例如,月桂酸鈉、棕櫚酸鈉等);高級烷基硫酸酯鹽(例如,月桂基硫酸鈉、月桂基硫酸鉀等);烷基醚硫酸酯鹽(例如,POE-月桂基硫酸三乙醇胺、POE-月桂基硫酸鈉等);N-醯基肌胺酸(例如,月桂醯基肌胺酸鈉等);高級脂肪酸醯胺磺酸鹽(例如,N-肉豆蔻醯基-N-甲基牛磺酸鈉、椰子油脂肪酸甲基牛磺酸鈉、月桂基甲基牛磺酸鈉等);磷酸酯鹽(POE-油基醚磷酸鈉、POE-硬脂基醚磷酸等);磺酸基琥珀酸鹽(例如,二-2-乙基己基磺酸基琥珀酸鈉、單月桂醯基單乙醇醯胺聚氧乙烯磺酸基琥珀酸鈉、月桂基聚丙二醇磺酸基琥珀 酸鈉等);烷基苯磺酸鹽(例如,直鏈十二基苯磺酸鈉、直鏈十二基苯磺酸三乙醇胺、直鏈十二基苯磺酸等);高級脂肪酸酯硫酸酯鹽(例如,氫化椰子油脂肪酸甘油硫酸鈉等);N-醯基麩胺酸鹽(例如,N-月桂醯基麩胺酸單鈉、N-硬脂醯基麩胺酸二鈉、N-肉豆蔻醯基-L-麩胺酸單鈉等);硫酸化油(例如,土耳其紅油等);POE-烷基醚羧酸;POE-烷基烯丙基醚羧酸鹽;α-烯烴磺酸鹽;高級脂肪酸酯磺酸鹽;二元醇硫酸酯鹽;高級脂肪酸烷醇醯胺硫酸酯鹽;月桂醯基單乙醇醯胺琥珀酸鈉;N-棕櫚醯基天冬胺酸二-三乙醇胺;酪蛋白鈉等。
陽離子界面活性劑,可舉例如烷基三甲基銨鹽(例如,氯化硬脂基三甲基銨、氯化月桂基三甲基銨等);烷基吡啶鎓鹽(例如,氯化鯨蠟基吡啶鎓等);二烷基二甲基銨鹽(例如氯化二硬脂基二甲基銨等);氯化聚(N,N’-二甲基-3,5-亞甲基哌啶鎓);烷基四級銨鹽;烷基二甲基苄基銨鹽;烷基異喹啉鎓鹽;二烷基嗎啉鎓鹽;POE-烷基胺;烷基胺鹽;聚胺脂肪酸衍生物;戊醇脂肪酸衍生物;氯化烷基二甲基苄基銨(benzalkonium chloride);氯化本索寧等。
兩性界面活性劑,可舉例如咪唑啉系兩性界面活性劑(例如,2-十一基-N,N,N-(羥基乙基羧基甲基)-咪唑啉鈉、2-椰油醯基-2-咪唑啉鎓氫氧化物-1-羧基乙氧基二鈉鹽等);甜菜鹼系界面活性劑(例如,2-十七基-N-羧基甲基-N-羥基乙基咪唑啉鎓甜菜鹼、月桂基二甲基胺基乙酸 甜菜鹼、烷基甜菜鹼、醯胺甜菜鹼、磺酸基甜菜鹼等)等。
親油性非離子界面活性劑,可舉例如山梨醇酐脂肪酸酯類(例如,山梨醇酐單油酸酯、山梨醇酐單異硬脂酸酯、山梨醇酐單月桂酸酯、山梨醇酐單棕櫚酸酯、山梨醇酐單硬脂酸酯、山梨醇酐倍半油酸酯、山梨醇酐三油酸酯、五-2-乙基己酸二甘油山梨醇酐、四-2-乙基己酸二甘油山梨醇酐等);甘油聚甘油脂肪酸類(例如,單棉籽油脂肪酸甘油酯、單芥子酸甘油酯、倍半油酸甘油酯、單硬脂酸甘油酯、α,α’-油酸焦麩胺酸甘油酯、單硬脂酸甘油酯蘋果酸等);丙二醇脂肪酸酯類(例如,單硬脂酸丙二醇酯等);氫化蓖麻油衍生物、甘油烷基醚等。
親水性非離子界面活性劑,可舉例如POE-山梨醇酐脂肪酸酯類(例如,POE-山梨醇酐單油酸酯、POE-山梨醇酐單硬脂酸酯、POE-山梨醇酐四油酸酯等);POE山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯類(例如,POE-山梨糖醇單月桂酸酯、POE-山梨糖醇單油酸酯、POE-山梨糖醇五油酸酯、POE-山梨糖醇單硬脂酸酯等);POE-甘油脂肪酸酯類(例如,POE-甘油單硬脂酸酯、POE-甘油單異硬脂酸酯、POE-甘油三異硬脂酸酯等POE-單油酸酯等);POE-脂肪酸酯類(例如,POE-二硬脂酸酯、POE-單二油酸酯、二硬脂酸乙二醇酯等);POE-烷基醚類(例如,POE-月桂基醚、POE-油基醚、POE-硬脂基醚、POE-二十二基醚、POE-辛基十二基醚、POE-膽甾烷醇醚等);普蘭尼克(Pluronic)型類(例如,普蘭尼克等);POE‧POP-烷基醚類(例如,POE‧POP-鯨蠟基 醚、POE‧POP-2-癸基十四基醚、POE‧POP-單丁基醚、POE‧POP-氫化羊毛脂、POE‧POP-甘油醚等);四POE‧四POP-伸乙二胺縮合物類(例如,Tetronic等);POE-蓖麻油氫化蓖麻油衍生物(例如,POE-蓖麻油、POE-氫化蓖麻油、POE-氫化蓖麻油單異硬脂酸酯、POE-氫化蓖麻油三異硬脂酸酯、POE-氫化蓖麻油單焦麩胺酸單異硬脂酸二酯、POE-氫化蓖麻油馬來酸等);POE-蜜蠟‧羊毛脂衍生物(例如,POE-山梨糖醇蜜蠟等);烷醇醯胺(例如,椰子油脂肪酸二乙醇醯胺、月桂酸單乙醇醯胺、脂肪酸異丙醇醯胺等);POE-丙二醇脂肪酸酯;POE-烷基胺、POE-脂肪醯胺、蔗糖脂肪酸酯;烷基乙氧基二甲基氧化胺;三油基磷酸等。
天然的水溶性高分子,可舉例如植物系高分子(例如,阿拉伯膠、紫雲英樹膠(tragacanth gum)、半乳聚糖、刺槐豆膠、瓜爾膠、羅望子膠、刺槐膠、梧桐膠、鹿角菜膠、果膠、洋菜、榅桲籽(木梨)、藻膠體(褐藻萃取物)、澱粉(米、玉米、馬鈴薯、小麥)、甘草酸);微生物系高分子(例如,三仙膠、右旋糖酐(dextran)、琥珀醯葡聚糖、聚三葡萄糖等);動物系高分子(例如,膠原、酪蛋白、白蛋白、明膠等)等。
半合成之水溶性高分子,可舉例如澱粉系高分子(例如,羧甲基澱粉、甲基羥丙基澱粉等);纖維素系高分子(甲基纖維素、乙基纖維素、甲基羥丙基纖維素、羥乙基纖維素、纖維素硫酸鈉、羥丙基纖維素、羧甲基纖維素、羧甲基纖維素鈉、結晶纖維素、纖維素粉末等);海 藻酸系高分子(例如,海藻酸鈉、海藻酸丙二醇酯等)等。
合成之水溶性高分子,可舉例如乙烯系高分子(例如,聚乙烯醇、聚乙烯基甲基醚、聚乙烯基吡咯啶酮、羧基乙烯基聚合物等);聚氧乙烯系高分子(例如,聚乙二醇20000、40000、60000等);丙烯酸系高分子(例如,聚丙烯酸鈉、聚丙烯酸乙酯、聚丙烯醯胺等);聚乙亞胺;陽離子聚合物、及該等之共聚物或交聯聚合物((丙烯醯基二甲基牛磺酸銨/VP)共聚物、(二甲基丙烯醯胺/丙烯醯基二甲基牛磺酸鈉)交聯聚合物等)等。
前述水溶性高分子以外之增黏劑,可舉例如糊精、果膠酸鈉、海藻酸鈉、二烷基二甲基銨硫酸纖維素、矽酸鋁鎂、膨土、鋰膨潤石、矽酸鋁鎂(Veegum)、合成鋰皂石、無水矽酸等。
單糖,可舉例如三碳糖(例如,D-甘油醛、二羥丙酮等);四碳糖(例如,D-赤藻糖、D-赤藻酮糖、D-蘇糖等);五碳糖(例如,L-阿拉伯糖、D-木糖、L-來蘇糖、D-阿拉伯糖、D-核糖、D-核酮糖、D-木酮糖、L-木酮糖等);六碳糖(例如,D-葡萄糖、D-太洛糖、D-阿洛酮糖(D-Psicose)、D-半乳糖、D-果糖、L-半乳糖、L-甘露糖、D-塔格糖等);七碳糖(例如,庚醛糖、庚酮糖等);八碳糖(例如,辛酮糖等);去氧糖(例如,2-去氧-D-核糖、6-去氧-L-半乳糖、6-去氧-L-甘露糖等);胺基糖(例如,D-葡萄胺糖、D-半乳胺糖、唾液酸、胺基糖醛酸、胞壁酸等);糖醛酸(例如,D-葡萄糖醛酸、D-甘露糖醛酸、L-古洛糖醛酸、 D-半乳糖醛酸、L-艾杜糖醛酸等)等。
寡糖,可舉例如蔗糖、龍膽三糖(gentianose)、傘形糖(umbelliferose)、乳糖、車前糖(planteose)、異剪秋羅糖(isolychnose)類、α,α-海藻糖、棉子糖、剪秋羅糖類、石耳素(umbilicin)、水蘇糖、毛蕊花糖類等。
胺基酸,可舉例如中性胺基酸(例如,蘇胺酸、光胱胺酸等);鹼性胺基酸(例如,羥離胺酸等)等。又,胺基酸衍生物,可舉例如醯基肌胺酸鈉(月桂醯基肌胺酸鈉)、醯基麩胺酸鹽、醯基β-丙胺酸鈉、麩胱甘肽、吡咯啶酮羧酸等。
有機胺,可舉例如單乙醇胺、二乙醇胺、三乙醇胺、嗎啉、三異丙醇胺、2-胺基-2-甲基-1,3-丙烷二醇、2-胺基-2-甲基-1-丙醇等。
環氧烷衍生物,可舉例如POE(9)POP(2)二甲基醚、POE(14)POP(7)二甲基醚、POE(10)POP(10)二甲基醚、POE(6)POP(14)二甲基醚、POE(15)POP(5)二甲基醚、POE(25)POP(25)二甲基醚、POE(7)POP(12)二甲基醚、POE(22)POP(40)二甲基醚、POE(35)POP(40)二甲基醚、POE(50)POP(40)二甲基醚、POE(55)POP(30)二甲基醚、POE(30)POP(34)二甲基醚、POE(25)POP(30)二甲基醚、POE(27)POP(14)二甲基醚、POE(55)POP(28)二甲基醚、POE(36)POP(41)二甲基醚、POE(7)POP(12)二甲基醚、POE(17)POP(4)二甲基醚等。
金屬離子封鎖劑,可舉例如1-羥基乙烷 -1,1-二膦酸、1-羥基乙烷-1,1-二膦酸四鈉鹽、乙二胺四乙酸二鈉、乙二胺四乙酸三鈉、乙二胺四乙酸四鈉、檸檬酸鈉、多磷酸鈉、偏磷酸鈉、葡萄糖酸、磷酸、檸檬酸、抗壞血酸、琥珀酸、乙二胺四乙酸、乙二胺羥乙基三乙酸三鈉等。
抗氧化助劑,可舉例如磷酸、檸檬酸、抗壞血酸、馬來酸、丙二酸、琥珀酸、富馬酸、腦磷脂、六偏磷酸鹽、植酸、乙二胺四乙酸等。
其他之可調配成分,可舉例如防腐劑(對羥基苯甲酸乙酯、對羥基苯甲酸丁酯等);美白劑(例如,胎盤萃取物、虎耳草萃取物、熊果苷等);血液循環促進劑(菸鹼酸、菸鹼酸苄酯、菸鹼酸生育酚、菸鹼酸β-丁氧酯、米諾地爾(Minoxidil)或其類似物、γ-穀醇、烷氧基羰基吡啶N-氧化物、氯化三甲胺丁酸甲酯(carpronium chloride)、及乙醯膽鹼或其衍生物等);各種萃取物(例如,薑、黃柏、黃連、紫草根、白樺、枇杷、胡蘿蔔、蘆薈、錦葵、鳶尾、葡萄、絲瓜、百合、番紅花、川芎、生薑、小連翹、芒炳花、大蒜、辣椒、陳皮、當歸、牡丹、海藻等)、活化劑(例如,泛醇乙基醚、菸鹼醯胺、生物素、泛酸、蜂王漿、膽固醇衍生物等);抗皮脂溢劑(例如,吡哆醇類、二甲噻蒽(thianthol)等)等。
本發明之化妝料,可廣泛地應用於使用於外皮的化妝品、醫藥品及準藥品。其劑型為水中油型乳化系(乳液、乳霜、化妝水等),可將一般之水中油型乳化組 成物的製造方法套用於具體之調配成分的內容,而依照所期望的型態來製造本發明之化妝料。例如,雖不限定於此,可使油溶性物質以乳化劑乳化之後,與分散有多孔質粉末的水性介質混合。又,於油溶性物質的乳化中,可適合使用POE‧POP-鯨蠟基醚(例如,POE(20)POP(8)鯨蠟基醚)。
本發明之化妝料之黏度,在25℃之黏度較佳為100000mPa‧s以下。藉由使毛孔修飾組成物之黏度為100000mPa‧s以下,可得護膚感。
又,若該黏度為100mPa‧s以下,則(A)親油性多孔質粉體容易沉降,會有分離成下述三層之情形:含有成分(B)內含有油溶性機能性成分之水中油型乳化粒子的上層、含有成分(A)親油性多孔質粉體的下層、及由其他成分所構成的中間層,但若使其懸浮並使用則可得本發明的效果,故沒有問題。
因此,本發明之化妝料,於穩定狀態下亦可分離為前述三層。
本發明之化妝料的製品型態並無特別限定,可適合使用於化妝水、乳液、美容液、乳霜、美白劑、護眼霜、防曬化妝料等護膚化妝料、粉底、飾底乳等上妝化妝料。
以下說明本發明之實施例等,但本發明並不限定於該等。又,下述之配方中之量為質量%。
首先,說明實施例所使用之化妝料的製造方法及其評 價方法。
<製造方法>
使多孔質粉體分散於添加有高分子分散劑與其他成分的水性介質中之後,添加油分,並且,添加另外製造之內含有油溶性機能性成分的水中油型乳化粒子,而得到化妝料。
<評價方法>
(1)紫外線防禦效果
將各試驗例之化妝料(樣品)以2mg/cm2的量滴下至測定板(S板)(5×5cm之V槽PMMA板,SPFMASTER-PA01),以手指塗布60秒鐘,乾燥15分鐘後,使用日立製作所股份有限公司製U-3500型自動記錄分光光度計測定吸光度。以無塗布板作為對照組,由下述式計算出形成於前述板上之塗膜的吸光度(Abs)。
Abs=-log(T/To)
T:樣品之穿透率、To:無塗布之穿透率
比較所得之測定結果之波長310nm之Abs,依據下述基準進行判定,於表中以符號表示。於本案中,當為B以上時,判定為具有效果。
A:Abs為0.9以上
B:Abs為0.5以上、未滿0.9
C:Abs未滿0.5
又,以同樣方法測定吸收光譜。將試驗例2及3之結 果示於第1圖。
(2)乾爽感持續效果
請10名品評專家將化妝料塗布於臉上,針對4小時後之乾爽感進行評價。依據下述基準進行判定,於表中以符號表示。於本案中,當為B以上時,判定為具有效果。
A:10名中有8名以上,評價為乾爽感持續。
B:10名中有4至7名,評價為乾爽感持續。
C:10名中有3名以下,評價為乾爽感持續。
(3)毛孔修飾效果
請10名品評專家將化妝料塗布於臉上,針對毛孔修飾效果的有無進行評價。依據下述基準進行判定,於表中以符號表示。於本案中,當為A時,判定為具有效果。
A:回答為具有效果的專家為5名以上。
B:回答為具有效果的專家為4名以下。
[試驗例1]
依前述方法製造下述表1的配方之化妝料,將針對前述評價項目之評價結果示於表1。又,於穩定狀態(20℃、1氣壓下靜置1天後)下,試驗例1與2為一層,而試驗例3與4係分離成含有內含有紫外線吸收劑之水中油型乳化粒子的上層、含有多孔質粉體的下層、及由其他成分所構成的中間層之三層。因此,於前述官能試驗中,使試驗例3與4之化妝料在裝有該等的容器中懸浮而成為一層的狀 態之後進行塗布。
表中之化合物,係使用下述者。
* 1:PRESS-AID SP(PRESPERSE公司製)
* 2:Techpolymer MBP-8HP(球狀,積水化成品工業股份有限公司製)
* 3:Sunsphere L-51s(球狀,AGC Si-Tech股份有限公司製)
* 4:PEMULEN TR-2(BFGoodrich公司製)
* 5:SIMULGEL NS(SEPPIC公司製)
* 6:KELTROL(Kelco公司製)
* 7:PPG-1000(三洋化成工業股份有限公司)
* 8:SACHTLEBEN RC-402P(SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS OY公司製)
如表1所示,含有作為親油性多孔質粉體之交聯型聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉體、作為高分子分散劑之丙烯酸系聚合物之丙烯酸‧甲基丙烯酸烷基酯共聚物((丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸烷基酯(C10-30))交聯聚合物)、及水性介質而且不含紫外線吸收劑之試驗例1的化妝料,前述親油性多孔質粉體良好地分散於水相中,乾爽感之持續效果與毛孔修飾效果優異,但無法得到紫外線防禦效果。於該化妝料(些許地改變油分的組成的同時)調配有紫外線吸收劑之試驗例2的化妝料,雖可看到少許的紫外線防禦效果,但得到毛孔修飾效果與乾爽感之持續效果受損的結果。此可推測為由於親油性多孔質粉體吸收紫外線吸收劑,使該粉體的折射率改變,並且,妨礙了由該粉體所進行之皮脂的吸收之故。
相對於此,關於將紫外線吸收劑以內含於水中油型乳化粒子中之狀態調配的試驗例3之化妝料,該水中油型乳化粒子及親油性多孔質粉體係分別分散於水相中,紫外線防禦效果、乾爽感持續效果、毛孔修飾效果皆優異。然而,將試驗例3之化妝料之多孔質體取代成親水性之多孔質氧化矽的化妝料(試驗例4),得到毛孔修飾效果受損的結果。
再者,試驗例3之化妝料所構成的塗膜之在紫外線區域的吸光度,比試驗例2之化妝料所構成的塗膜高,顯示優異的紫外線防禦效果(第1圖)。
據此,若於已藉由前述高分子分散劑使親 油性多孔質粉體分散於水性介質中的系統中直接調配紫外線吸收劑,則由親油性多孔質粉體所致之毛孔修飾效果、乾爽感持續效果受損,紫外線防禦效果亦未充分發揮(和試驗例1與2相比較),若使紫外線吸收劑以內含於水中油型乳化粒子的狀態調配,則不會損及親油性多孔質粉體的前述效果,並且,紫外線防禦效果亦可充分發揮(試驗例3)。
以下,列舉本發明之調配有水中油型乳化組成物之各種化妝料的配方例,但本發明並不限定於該等。
配方例1:美容液
配方例2:美容液
配方例3:美容液
配方例4:白天用乳液
配方例5:白天用乳液
配方例6:白天用乳液
由於本案的圖為實驗數據,並非本案的代表圖。
故本案無指定代表圖。
Claims (7)
- 一種化妝料,係含有:(A)相對於化妝料總量為1至30質量%之由交聯型聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯所構成的親油性多孔質粉體、(B)相對於化妝料總量為0.01至30質量%之由紫外線吸收劑及/或油溶性抗氧化劑所構成的內含有油溶性機能性成分之水中油型乳化粒子、(C)相對於化妝料總量為0.005至2質量%之由交聯型丙烯酸共聚物所構成的高分子分散劑、及(D)水性介質10至80質量%,惟該水性介質含有低級醇及/或多元醇時,在水性介質中佔30質量%以下,其中,於成分(A)之表面存在有成分(C),成分(A)及成分(B)係分別分散於成分(D)中,該化妝料係分離為含成分(B)之上層、含成分(A)之下層、及由其他成分所構成之中間層的三層。
- 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之化妝料,其中,(A)親油性多孔質粉體之最大可吸油量,相對於該粉體而言,為100質量%以上。
- 如申請專利範圍第1或2項所述之化妝料,其進一步含有黏度100mPa‧s以下的油分,該油分係被保持於成分(A)之孔的至少一部分。
- 如申請專利範圍第1或2項所述之化妝料,其滿足下述式: [(化妝料中之油分之含量(質量%))/(化妝料中之親油性多孔質粉體之含量(質量%))×100]/親油性多孔質粉體之最大吸油量(質量%)≦1。
- 如申請專利範圍第4項所述之化妝料,其於25℃之黏度為100000mPa‧s以下。
- 如申請專利範圍第1或2項所述之化妝料,其中,成分(B)之油溶性機能性成分為紫外線吸收劑。
- 如申請專利範圍第1或2項所述之化妝料,其進一步含有乳化劑。
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JP5908699B2 (ja) * | 2011-10-31 | 2016-04-26 | 富士フイルム株式会社 | 化粧料 |
JP5996330B2 (ja) * | 2012-08-21 | 2016-09-21 | 株式会社シャネル化粧品技術開発研究所 | 複合粒子及びそれを含む化粧料組成物 |
JP6413190B2 (ja) * | 2013-07-08 | 2018-10-31 | ディーエスエム アイピー アセッツ ビー.ブイ.Dsm Ip Assets B.V. | Uvフィルター、紫外線吸収剤で官能基付与されたオルガノポリシロキサン、および多孔質シリカおよび/またはポリメチルメタクリレート粒子を含む紫外線遮断組成物 |
TW201722394A (zh) * | 2015-10-30 | 2017-07-01 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 組成物 |
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