KR100368580B1 - A warp knit having an excellent touch, and a process of preparing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a warp knit excellent in touch and a method of manufacturing the same. The warp knitted fabric of the present invention has a three-layer structure in which an intermediate tissue is located between the surface tissue and the back tissue, and the surface tissue is composed of ultra-fine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 denier, and the intermediate tissue is composed of spandex elastic yarn. The back surface is composed of synthetic fibers having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 denier, characterized in that the elongation recovery rate in the length direction of the warp knitted paper and the width direction of the warp knitted fabric is 25 to 60%. In addition, the manufacturing method of the present invention is characterized in that the pretreatment, weight loss, dyeing, buffing and final heat treatment after the napping treatment so that the shrinkage of the warp knitted fabric after the knitting is 40% or more. The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is mainly used in the manufacture of artificial leather and women's clothing.

Description

A warp knit having an excellent touch, and a process of preparing the same}

The present invention relates to a warp knit excellent in touch and a method of manufacturing the same.

The present invention relates to a warp knitted fabric useful for artificial leather or women's clothing material, etc., because the tissue is very dense and soft, but has excellent drape properties.

As the fiber becomes thinner, the bending stiffness decreases, so the fabric made of ultra-fine fibers has the advantage of having a very soft touch. Therefore, research on the commercialization of ultra-fine fibers has been actively conducted. In addition, the development of ultra-miniaturization technology of synthetic fiber has been the motive for greatly improving the commercialization of emotional materials for clothing.

In general, the ultra-fine fibers can be classified into three types: direct spinning, two-component split spinning, and two-component elution spinning. Fine microfibers that can be manufactured by direct spinning have a fineness of 0.3-0.5 denier and two-component split. The fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the type spinning method is 0.2 denier, whereas the fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the two-component eluting spinning method can be manufactured to 0.01 denier or less.

When the ultra-fine fiber produced by the direct spinning method is applied to warp knitted fabrics, many filaments are dispersed, so the hardness and appearance are very poor, and the warp knitted fabrics also have poor surface feel and writing effect.

On the other hand, when ultra-fine fibers made by two-component split composite spinning method composed of nylon / polyester are applied to warp knitted fabric, nylon and polyester are incompatible with nylon and polyester due to the tension and friction that are received during the warp and weaving. Were isolated from each other and poor in hardness and knitting, and the appearance of the manufactured product was poor due to the limitation of ultrafine fineness.

In addition, when applied to warp knitted fabrics using a composite fiber having a level of 0.05 denier or less after dissolution prepared by the two-component elution spinning method, the elution component is eluted during the post-processing step for the ultra-fine There is a problem that the tissue density of the fabric becomes loose and the appearance of the fabric becomes poor. In addition, warp knitted fabric prepared by the above method also has a problem of lack of shape stability and elasticity.

Commercialization using ultra-fine fibers has progressed in various ways in the textile sector, but in the knitting sector, as described above, commercialization has not progressed due to various defects generated during canon and post-processing.

An object of the present invention is to produce a warp knitted paper with good texture and knitability that is excellent in touch, shape stability, elasticity and appearance, suitable for the material such as women's clothing.

The present invention is excellent in the touch, appearance, drape, form stability and elasticity to provide a warp letter useful as a women's clothing material. In another aspect, the present invention is to provide a method capable of producing the warp knitted paper with good process passability, that is, without deterioration of the hardness and knitting properties.

1 is a graph for measuring the elongation recovery rate of the warp knitted using the instron in the present invention.

※ Code explanation for main part of drawing

L: Extension length (calculated value) L ₁ : Free extension length n: Number of measurements

The present invention relates to a warp knitted fabric excellent in hand, appearance, elasticity, shape stability, and drape, and a manufacturing method thereof.

More specifically, the present invention is a three-layer structure in which the intermediate tissue is located between the surface tissue and the backside tissue, the surface tissue is composed of ultra-fine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 ~ 0.09 denier, the intermediate tissue is composed of spandex elastic yarn, The back surface is composed of synthetic fibers having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 deniers, and has excellent touch, characterized in that the elongation recovery rate in the length direction of the warp knitted paper and the width direction of the warp knitted paper is 25 to 60%. It is about a letter.

In the present invention, the composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 denier is used as a surface tissue yarn, a spandex elastic yarn as an intermediate tissue yarn, and a polyester yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 denier. After each piece of warp knitted fabric is used as a tissue yarn, it is brushed to have a shrinkage ratio of 40% or more, and then preheated, reduced (removing the elution component in the composite fiber), dyeing, buffing and final heat treatment. It relates to a method for producing a warp knitted fabric characterized in that the excellent touch.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The present inventors pay attention to the fact that the selection and combination of materials to be applied in tissue design is very important for producing a polyester warp knitted fabric that is not only very soft and excellent in appearance but also excellent in process passability, such as natural suede. It was completed.

First, the present invention uses a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 denier at the time of knitting, as a yarn for the surface tissue. When the composite fibers are eluted after removal of the eluted component, only the fiber-forming components remain, and their single yarn fineness is 0.03 to 0.09 denier. If the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn exceeds 0.09 denier, the soft touch is poor and not only the quality but also the lighting effect is not expressed. If the surface yarn is less than 0.03 denier, the touch is easily removed by soft termination or friction. Or entangled, resulting in poor appearance.

It is preferable to use co-polyester which is excellent in alkali hydrolysis property as polyester and fiber-forming component in the composite fiber used as yarn of surface structure. The content of the eluting component in the composite fiber is usually 20 to 40% by weight.

In order to improve the feel of the warp knitted fabric, it is desirable to increase the fiber density of the surface tissue. The method of increasing the fiber density of the surface tissue is one method of reducing the polymer use rate of the eluting component in the composite fiber at the manufacturing stage of the yarn, but this is not only due to technical limitations in yarn manufacturing but also the polymer use ratio of the eluting component. There is a limit to increasing the density even if it decreases.

Therefore, the present invention is characterized by using a spandex elastic yarn as the yarn of the intermediate tissue, to increase the fiber density of the surface tissue by their shrinkage. The spandex elastic yarn, which is the intermediate tissue yarn, has good shrinkage property, thereby increasing the fiber density of the surface tissue on the final processed paper, thereby improving the feel of the warp knitted fabric, and providing the stretch knit with good elasticity and resilience. The total denier of the spandex is preferably 30 to 90 denier.

Next, synthetic fibers having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 denier during the knitting process, more preferably, polyester yarn is used as the yarn for the backside tissue. If the single yarn fineness is less than 1 denier, the drape property of the warp knitted fabric is lowered, and if it exceeds 5 denier, the regularity, the knitting property, etc. worsen. The back surface yarn serves to impart mechanical stability and form stability of warp knitted fabric, and for example, 50 denier / 24 filament polyester yarns are used.

The content of the surface tissue yarn during the knitting is preferably 40 to 87% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper. If the content is less than 40% by weight, there is a risk that the warp knitted fabric may be poor. If the content is more than 87% by weight, the content of intermediate yarns and backing yarns may be relatively low, resulting in drape and mechanical properties.

On the other hand, the content of the intermediate tissue yarn and the backing yarn yarn is preferably 3 to 20% by weight and 10 to 57% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper, respectively. If it exceeds the above range, the touch of the warp knitted fabric may be lowered, and if it is less than the above range, the shape stability and drape may be lowered.

The present invention is characterized in that the warp treatment so that the dough shrinkage ratio is 40% or more before preheating. After the napping treatment as described above, the present invention is then pre-heated and alkali-reduced as in the usual method to remove the elution component in the composite fiber, dyeing, buffing and final heat treatment. Maintaining the density of the processed paper at 40 to 80 copies / inch is preferable to feel and shape stability.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention prepared as described above is densely composed of ultra fine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 denier, and is very excellent in touch and appearance. In particular, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of spandex elastic yarn having good elasticity, so that the microfiber density of the surface tissue is more dense, and the warp knitted paper in the length direction of the warp knitted paper and the width of the warp knitted fabric Elongation recovery is also excellent at 25 ~ 60%. In addition, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of regular synthetic fiber yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 deniers, and also has good shape stability and mechanical properties.

As such, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention has excellent touch, appearance, elasticity, shape stability, and drape, and thus is useful as a material for women's clothing or artificial leather.

In the present invention, the property evaluation method of warp knitted paper is performed as follows.

ㅇ Soft

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more people are judged to be soft, and 5-7 people are judged to be soft, and 8 or more judges to be soft.

ㅇ Drapability

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more people judge that there is drape property, and 5-7 people judge that there is drape property. Separated by.

ㅇ Lighting effect

According to sensory tests by 10 experts, 8 or more judged that there was a lighting effect, and 5-7 judged that there was a lighting effect. The case is classified as bad.

ㅇ Appearance

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, when 8 or more people judge that the appearance is good, when 5 to 7 people judge that the appearance is good, the case where 8 or more judges that the appearance is poor is classified as bad.

ㅇ Elongation recovery rate (%) The overall measurement method was measured according to KSK 0815, but the proper elongation at constant speed was calculated using JIS L 1096. Both ends of the warp knitted fabric sample of length x width of 10 x 15 cm were held in an Instron Universal Testing Machine (hereinafter referred to as "Instron"), and then extended to a load of 100 mm / min tensile speed of 750 g. After calculating the length corresponding to 80%, it is allowed to stand for 1 minute after constant speed extension to the above length, and then it is restored to its original position, and it is left for 3 minutes with the load removed in 5 times. The free elongation length (L ₁ ) is measured with respect to the elongation length (L), which is accompanied by both the length change and the strong change, except for the so-called "stress-free transformation interval," in which there is no strong change according to the change in elongation length. The "no stress conversion interval" is generated due to the characteristics of the Instron equipment specimen fixed grip and the fabric properties, and is measured in the stretched state due to the fabric weight. In this section, there will be a section extending in the longitudinal direction but not accompanied by the overall change in strength. The free extension length (L ₁ ) is defined as the value obtained by subtracting the length from the extension length (L) after repeated 5 times of constant speed elongation to the original position. The elongation recovery rate is obtained by substituting the elongation length L and the free elongation length L ₁ in the following equation.

Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component, and the ultra fineness formed after eluting component is 0.05 denier. Using the eluted composite fiber as the yarn for the surface tissue, the spandex elastic yarn of 40 denier / 5 filament as the intermediate tissue yarn, and the regular polyester yarn with the fineness of 5 denier as the yarn for the back tissue, Compete. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 55% by weight: 10% by weight: 35% by weight. The warp knitted fabric prepared in this manner was raised to 50% shrinkage, and then a preliminary set (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersion material], buffing and final set (180 ℃) To prepare a warp knitted paper having a density of 60 bones / inch, the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Using the eluted composite fiber as the yarn for the surface tissue, using the spandex elastic yarn of 40 denier / 5 filament as the intermediate tissue yarn, and using the regular polyester yarn with the fineness of 3 denier as the yarn for the back tissue, Compete. At this time, the weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 60% by weight: 5% by weight: 35% by weight. The warp dough was prepared to be shrunk by 55%, followed by preliminary set (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersant], buffing and final set (180 ℃). To prepare a warp knitted paper having a density of 55 bones / inch, and the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component, and the ultra fineness formed after eluting component is 0.05 denier. The eluted composite fiber is used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and the warp knit dough is sectioned using a regular polyester yarn having a fineness of 0.5 denier as the back tissue yarn. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 55% by weight: 45% by weight. The warp knitted fabric prepared in this manner was raised to 50% shrinkage, and then a preliminary set (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersion material], buffing and final set (180 ℃) To prepare a warp knitted paper having a density of 60 bones / inch, the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to give a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component, and the ultrafineness formed after eluting component is 0.2 denier. The eluted composite fiber is used as a yarn for the surface tissue, and a warp knit dough is sectioned using a regular polyester yarn having 5 deniers as a back tissue yarn. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 60% by weight: 40% by weight. After raising the warp kneaded dough 20% shrinkage and then pre-set (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersant], buffing and final set (180 ℃) To prepare a warp knitted paper having a density of 60 bones / inch, the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 3

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component, and the ultrafineness formed after eluting component is 0.05 denier. The eluted composite fiber is used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and a warp knit dough is sectioned using a regular polyester yarn having a fineness of 10 denier as the back tissue yarn. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 55% by weight: 45% by weight. The warp dough was prepared to be shrunk by 55%, followed by preliminary set (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersant], buffing and final set (180 ℃). To prepare a warp knitted paper having a density of 60 bones / inch, the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Property evaluation result of warp letter division Softness Drape Castle Lighting effect Exterior Elongation recovery rate (%) Wall direction of warp letter Width direction of warp letter Example 1 Great Great Great Great 41.9 37.6 Example 2 Great Great Great Great 35.7 32.8 Comparative Example 1 usually Bad Great usually 20.0 18.6 Comparative Example 2 Bad Great Bad usually 15.9 17.2 Comparative Example 3 Bad Great Great usually 10.4 13.0

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention has excellent touch, appearance, elastic recovery rate, and drape property, and thus is useful as a material for artificial leather or women's clothing. In addition, the manufacturing method of the present invention has a very good process passability such as hardness and knitting.

Claims (8)

It is a three-layer structure in which intermediate tissue is located between the surface tissue and the back tissue, and the surface tissue is composed of ultra-fine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 denier, and the intermediate tissue is composed of spandex elastic yarn, and the back tissue is single yarn fineness. It is composed of 1 ~ 5 denier synthetic fiber yarns, and excellent stretch, characterized in that the stretch recovery in the length direction (Wale) of the warp knitted paper and the width (Course) direction of the warp knitted fabric is 25 to 60%. The warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the ultrafine yarn content constituting the surface tissue is 40 to 87 wt% based on the total weight of the processed warp knitted fabric. The warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the content of the spandex elastic yarn constituting the intermediate tissue is 3 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the processed warp knitted fabric. The warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the content of the synthetic fiber yarn constituting the backside tissue is 10 to 57 wt% based on the total weight of the processed warp knitted fabric. delete The warp knitted fabric of claim 1, wherein the ultrafine yarn and the synthetic fiber yarn are polyester yarns. Composite fibers composed of fiber-forming components and eluting components with single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 denier are used as surface tissue yarns, spandex elastic yarn as intermediate tissue yarns, and polyester yarns with single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 deniers as back tissue yarns, respectively. After knitting the warp knitted fabrics, the brushed fabric is brushed to have a shrinkage of 40% or more, followed by preheating, weight loss (removal of eluted components in the composite fiber), dyeing, buffing and final heat treatment. Method for producing warp knit excellent in touch. The method of claim 7, wherein the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn is 40 to 87% by weight: 3 to 20% by weight: 10 to 57% by weight. .