KR100740305B1 - A suede-like warp knit with natural appearance - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a suede warp knit expressing a natural appearance and a method of manufacturing the same. The suede-like warp knitted fabric of the present invention is a three-layered structure in which an intermediate structure is located between the surface tissue and the backside tissue in which the piles of polyester ultra-fine yarns are embedded. It is composed of an ester ultra-fine yarn, the intermediate structure is composed of a polyester multifilament having a single yarn fineness 1-3 denier, the back surface is characterized in that composed of spandex elastic yarn. In addition, the manufacturing method of the present invention is characterized in that the shrinkage of the warp knitted fabric after knitting is reduced, dyed, dried, and then sanded or brushed after raising the dried warp knitted fabric. The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is mainly used in the manufacture of artificial leather and women's clothing.

Warp knitted paper, suede, exterior, secondary brushed, microfiber, composite fiber.

Description

Suede-like warp knit expressing a natural appearance and its manufacturing method {A suede-like warp knit with natural appearance}

The present invention relates to a suede warp knit expressing a natural appearance and a method of manufacturing the same.

The present invention relates to a suede warp knitted fabric and a method for manufacturing the same, which are useful for artificial leather or women's clothing material by expressing a natural appearance with a very dense tissue, soft, excellent drape properties.

Suede-like warp knits are warp knits that have the same effect as natural leather due to piles of fibers on the surface.

As the fiber becomes thinner, the bending stiffness decreases, so the fabric made of ultra-fine fibers has the advantage of having a very soft touch, and thus, research on the commercialization of the ultra-fine fibers is very active. In addition, the development of ultra-miniaturization technology of synthetic fiber has been the motive for greatly improving the commercialization of emotional materials for clothing.

In general, the ultra-fine fibers can be classified into three types: direct spinning, two-component split spinning, and two-component elution spinning. Fine microfibers manufactured by direct spinning have a fineness of 0.3-0.5 denier and two-component split. The fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the type spinning method is 0.2 denier, whereas the fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the two-component eluting spinning method can be manufactured to 0.01 denier or less.

When the ultra-fine fiber produced by the direct spinning method is applied to warp knitted fabrics, many filaments are dispersed, so the hardness and appearance are very poor, and the manufactured suede warp knitted fabric also has poor surface feel and writing effect.

On the other hand, when ultra-fine fibers made by two-component split composite spinning method composed of nylon / polyester are applied to warp knitted fabric, nylon and polyester are incompatible with nylon and polyester due to the tension and friction that are received during the warp and weaving. Were isolated from each other and poor in hardness and knitting, and the appearance of the manufactured product was poor due to the limitation of ultrafine fineness.

In addition, when applied to suede warp knitted fabric using a composite fiber having a level of 0.05 denier or less after dissolution prepared by the two-component elution spinning method, the elution component is eluted in the post-processing step for the ultra-miniaturization. As a result, the tissue density of the fabric becomes loose, resulting in a poor appearance of the fabric. In addition, warp knitted fabric prepared by the above method also has a problem of lack of shape stability and elasticity.

Commercialization using ultra-fine fibers has progressed in various ways in the textile sector. However, in the warp knitting sector, as described above, the commercialization has not progressed due to various defects generated during normal and post-processing.

In addition, when the suede-like warp knitted fabric is made of ultra-fine fibers according to the conventional method described above, there is a problem that it is difficult to obtain a natural appearance due to uniform dyeing as well as the touch of the warp knitted fabric.

An object of the present invention is to manufacture a suede warp knitted paper that is excellent in the touch and expresses a natural appearance in order to solve the above conventional problems.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a suede warp knit useful in artificial leather or women's clothing material such that the tissue is very dense, soft, but excellent in appearance and drape properties.

Another object of the present invention is to produce a suede warp knitted paper suitable for garment materials such as jackets and living materials such as sofas with good appearance and knitting properties while exhibiting a natural appearance and excellent appearance.

The present invention is to provide a suede-like warp knitted fabric that has an undyed portion inside the warp knitted fabric, when the microfibers of the undyed portion are raised to the warp knitted surface, and the overall appearance is natural.

More specifically, the present invention exhibits a natural effect due to the difference in dyeing properties of the polyester microfiber (hereinafter referred to as "file"), and at the same time, the file length is short, so that the touch and writing effect are excellent. It is intended to provide a suede warp knitted paper with a natural appearance by preventing defects of the warp knitted paper from being exposed to the outside due to a high density of hairs.

In addition, the present invention is to provide a method for forming an undyed portion inside the warp knitted fabric so that the undyed microfibers are brushed into the surface of the warp knitted fabric when the napping is expressed.

Specifically, the present invention is to provide a method of making the warp knit density as high as possible by shrinking at least 40% in its width direction before the brushing process in order to prevent the dye from penetrating into the warp knit well during dyeing.

In order to increase the density of the warp knitted paper of thistle paper, the present invention is to reduce the alkali (elution component eluting) and dyeing before the brushing process, and to provide a method of using a spandex elastic yarn as a yarn for the back surface tissue of the warp knitted paper.

The suede warp knitted fabric of the present invention for achieving the above problems is a three-layered structure in which an intermediate tissue is located between the surface tissue and the back surface tissue in which piles of polyester microfiber yarns are incorporated, and the surface tissue is a single yarn. It is composed of a polyester ultra-fine yarn having a fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier, the intermediate structure is composed of a polyester multifilament having a single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier, characterized in that the back structure is composed of a spandex elastic yarn.                     

In addition, the method of producing suede warp knitted fabric according to the present invention is a three-bar warp knitting machine, a single fiber fine fiber of 0.001-0.05 denier fiber-forming component and the eluting component composed of a surface tissue yarn, single yarn fineness 1- 3 denier polyester multifilament is supplied to the intermediate tissue yarn and spandex elastic yarn to the back tissue yarn, respectively, to knit the three-layered warp knit dough, and then to continue to shrink the warp knit dough by 40% or more in the width direction. After eluting (reducing) the eluted component in the composite fiber by treating with an aqueous alkaline solution, it is characterized in that the sanding or brushing process after raising the warp knitted paper which is then dried and dyed or dried and then dried.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The present inventors pay attention to the fact that the selection and combination of materials to be applied in tissue design and process order are very important for producing polyester warp knitted fabrics that not only express a very soft and natural appearance, but also have excellent process passability, such as natural suede. The present invention was completed.

First, the present invention uses a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier at the time of knitting, as a yarn for the surface tissue. When the composite fiber is removed by the reduction of alkali after elution, only the fiber-forming component remains, and their single yarn fineness is 0.001-0.05 denier. If the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn exceeds 0.05 denier, there is a disadvantage that the soft touch is poor and not only the quality but also the lighting effect is not expressed. If the surface yarn is less than 0.001 denier, the touch is easily eliminated by soft termination or friction. Or entangled, resulting in poor appearance.

Specifically, when the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn, that is, the single yarn fineness of the piled superfine yarn (pile) exceeds 0.05 denier, the hair density of the pile decreases, so that the feel and the lighting effect are not reduced, and the slanted line in the warp knitted fabric The defects of the back are easily exposed to the outside, and the appearance of the warp knitted paper is also reduced. To prevent deterioration of the appearance of warp knitted paper, when the length of the pile is formed to a level of 0.5 mm or more, the tactile and lighting effects become worse. Therefore, it is more preferable that the pile length piled on the surface of the suede warp knitted fabric is 0.1-0.3 mm.

It is preferable to use co-polyester which is excellent in alkali hydrolysis property as polyester and fiber-forming component in the composite fiber used as yarn of surface structure. The content of the eluting component in the composite fiber is usually 20-40% by weight.

In addition, in the present invention, a spandex elastic yarn is used as the yarn for the backside tissue, and the fiber density of the surface tissue is increased by their shrinkage. Spandex elastic yarn, which is the backing yarn, has good shrinkage characteristics, thereby increasing the fiber density of the surface tissue on the final processed paper, thereby improving the feel of the warp knitted fabric, and providing a good elasticity and resilience to the warp knitted fabric. In addition, by greatly increasing the density of the fabric during the weight loss and dyeing process, the tissue is made as compact as possible, causing a difference in the dyeability of the surface and inner layers of the fabric. Let's do it. The total denier of spantex for expressing such effects is preferably 20-90 denier levels, and the single yarn fineness is preferably 15 denier or more.

Meanwhile, polyester multifilament having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 3 denier is used as the intermediate structure yarn. Intermediate tissue yarns provide morphological stability to warp knitted fabrics, and their total fineness is preferably 30 to 80 denier. If the single yarn fineness of the intermediate yarn is less than 1 denier, the morphological stability of the warp knitted fabric is lowered, and if it exceeds 3 denier, the feel of the warp knitted fabric is lowered.

It is preferable that the length of the pile of polyester microfibers (which is the yarns piled on the surface by brushing, etc. among the eluted surface tissue yarns) in the surface of the warp knitted fabric is 0.1-0.3 mm. If the length of the pile exceeds 0.3mm, the feel of the warp knitted fabric is lowered, and if the length of the pile is less than 0.1 mm, the defect of the warp knitted fabric is easily exposed to the outside and the appearance is degraded.

The content of the surface tissue yarn during the knitting is preferably 40-87% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper. If the content is less than 40% by weight, there is a risk that the warp knitted fabric may be poor. If the content is more than 87% by weight, the content of intermediate yarns and backing yarns may be relatively low, resulting in drape and mechanical properties.

On the other hand, the content of the intermediate tissue yarn and the backing yarn yarn is preferably 3-20% by weight and 10-40% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper, respectively. If it exceeds the above range, the touch of the warp knitted fabric may be lowered, and if it is less than the above range, the shape stability and drape may be lowered.

The suede warp knitted fabric of the present invention is a three-bar warp knitting machine composed of a fiber-forming component having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier and an eluting component as a surface tissue yarn, and a polyester multifilament having a single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier. Spuntex elastic yarns are supplied as intermediate tissue yarns to back tissue yarns, respectively, to knit three-layered warp knitted fabrics, and then treated with an aqueous alkali solution to shrink the warp knitted fabrics in the width direction by at least 40%. After eluting (reducing) the elution component, it is continuously dried and dyed or dyed and dried, and then continues to brush the dried warp knitted paper and then shearing or omit shearing It features sanding or brushing to keep the surface pile clean.

In the present invention, by reducing and dyeing the fabric in the state of warp knitted paper as described above, the fabric is reduced as much as possible to maximize the dyeing of the surface by maximizing the density of the fabric, and the dyeing of the inner surface is different so that the dyeing of the surface and the inner surface is different. It is characterized by raising. It is preferable to carry out brushing 4 times or more weakly, and to dry and heat dry at 120 degreeC or more, and to perform a shearing about once. It is preferable that the warp knitted fabric is 105 inches wide and 109 inches in density.

The weight loss step of eluting the component component in the composite fiber with the aqueous alkali solution is preferably carried out for 30 minutes to 60 minutes in a 1% NaOH solution at 98 ° C., and the dyeing is preferably performed at 130 ° C. for 10 to 60 minutes.

However, the present invention does not specifically limit the conditions of raising, heat setting, shearing, weight loss, dyeing, and the like.

The suede-like warp knitted fabric of the present invention thus prepared is densely composed of ultra-fine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier, and is very excellent in touch and appearance. In particular, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of a spun tex elastic yarn having a good stretch property of the back surface tissue is more dense ultra-fine density of the surface tissue.

As such, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is excellent in touch, elasticity and drape, and expresses a natural appearance, and is very useful as a material for clothing such as a jacket or artificial leather.

In the present invention, the property evaluation method of the suede warp knitted paper is performed as follows.

ㅇ Soft

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more are judged to be soft, and 5-7 are judged to be soft, and 8 or more are judged to be soft.

ㅇ Drapability

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more people judge that there is drape, and 5-7 people judge that there is drape. Separated by.

ㅇ Lighting effect

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more people judge that lighting effects are excellent, and 5-7 people judge that lighting effects are effective. The case is classified as bad.

ㅇ Appearance (natural appearance)

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, when 8 or more people judge that the appearance is good, 5-7 people judge that the appearance is good.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the present invention is not limited only to the following examples.

Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elastomeric composite fiber with 75 denier and total fineness as yarn for surface texture, 60 denier / 4 filament spandex elastic yarn as backside yarn, regular yarn with 2 denier fineness and 50 denier total fineness Tissue warp knit dough using the ester yarn as the intermediate yarn. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 55% by weight: 10% by weight: 35% by weight. In this way, the warp dough was reduced to 50% shrinkage (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ° C. × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersant], drying, brushing (4 times), sanding and final set (180 ° C.). A suede warp knitted fabric having 60 bones / inch and a pile length of 0.2 mm piled on the surface was prepared, and the physical properties thereof were shown in Table 1 below.

Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elastomeric composite fiber with denier and total fineness of 75 denier is used as yarn for surface texture, and 60 denier and 4 filament spandex elastic yarn is used as backing yarn, and single yarn fineness is 1 denier and total fineness is 40 denier Knitted doughs are knitted using polyester filaments as yarns for intermediate tissues. At this time, the weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 60% by weight: 5% by weight: 35% by weight. Thus prepared warp dough reduced by 55% (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), drying, dyeing [dispersant], drying, brushing (4 times), shearing (Sheaning: 1 time), brushing And a final set (180 ° C.) to prepare a suede warp knitted paper having a density of 55 bones / inch and a pile length of 0.2 mm in the surface, and the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Example 3

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elution type composite fiber with 75 denier and total fineness is used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and 60 denier / 4 filament spandex elastic yarn is used as the yarn for the back side tissue, and the single yarn fineness is 2.5 denier and the total fineness is 50 denier Knitted dough is used to knit polyester filament as an intermediate yarn. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 55% by weight: 10% by weight: 35% by weight. Thus prepared warp dough reduced by 55% (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [disperse dye], drying, brushed (4 times), sanding and final set (180 ℃) density A suede warp knitted paper having a length of 60 mm / inch and a pile length of 0.2 mm in the surface was prepared, and the physical properties thereof were shown in Table 1 below.

Example 4

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elastomeric composite fiber with 75 denier and total fineness is used as yarn for surface texture, and 60 denier / 4 filament spandex elastic yarn is used as backing yarn, and 3 single denier fine yarn and 60 denier total fine yarn Kraft paper dough is cut using an ester filament as a yarn of intermediate tissue. At this time, the weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 60% by weight: 5% by weight: 35% by weight. Thus prepared warp dough reduced by 55% (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), drying, dyeing [dispersant], drying, brushing (4 times), shearing (Sheaning: 1 time), brushing And a final set (180 ° C.) to prepare a suede warp knitted paper having a density of 55 bones / inch and a pile length of 0.2 mm in the surface, and the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elution type composite fiber with total densities of 75 deniers is used as the yarn for surface tissue, regular polyester filament with single densities of 0.5 denier and total densities of 20 denier is used as the backing tissue yarn, and warp knitted paper dough is prepared. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 55% by weight: 45% by weight. The warp knitted fabric prepared in this manner was raised to 50% shrinkage, and then a preliminary set (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersion material], buffing and final set (180 ℃) In order to prepare a warp knitted paper having a density of 60 bones / inch and a pile length of 0.4 mm, the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elastomeric composite fiber with total densities of 75 deniers is used as a yarn for surface texture, and regular polyester filament with single densities of 5 deniers and total densities of 100 deniers is used as a backing yarn, and 60 denier / 4 filament The spandex dough is sectioned using spandex elastic yarn as the intermediate tissue yarn. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 60% by weight: 5% by weight: 35% by weight. After raising the warp kneaded dough 20% shrinkage and then pre-set (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersant], buffing and final set (180 ℃) In order to prepare a warp knitted paper having a density of 60 bones / inch and a pile length of 0.4 mm, the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Property evaluation result of warp letter division Softness Drape Castle Lighting effect Natural appearance Example 1 Great Great Great Great Example 2 Great Great Great Great Example 3 Great Great Great Great Example 4 Great Great Great Great Comparative Example 1 usually Bad Great Bad Comparative Example 2 Bad Great Bad Bad

The suede-like warp knitted fabric of the present invention has a short length of pile and a high density of hair, and is excellent in touch. At the same time, the suede-like warp knitted fabric of the present invention is also mixed with undyed piles in the ultra-fine pile piled on the surface when the yarn of the inner layer protrudes to the surface after the raising process due to the difference in the dyeability of the surface portion and the inner layer. . Thus, the suede warp knitted fabric of the present invention expresses a natural appearance. As a result, the suede warp knitted fabric of the present invention is very useful as clothing such as a jacket. In addition, the production method of the present invention can produce the suede warp knitted paper with good processability.

Claims (7)

delete delete delete delete Composite fiber consisting of fiber-forming component and eluting component with single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier in 3-bar warp knitting machine as surface tissue yarn, polyester multifilament with single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier as intermediate tissue yarn, spandex elastic yarn Supplies each of the three-layered warp knitted fabrics to each other, and then treats the warp knitted fabrics with an alkaline aqueous solution to reduce the warp knitted fabrics by 40% or more in the width direction. Then, after the continuous drying and dyeing or drying after dyeing, and then continue to dry the warp knitted paper, the method of producing a suede warp knitted paper expressing a natural appearance, characterized in that the sanding or brushing treatment. The method of producing a suede warp knitted fabric according to claim 5, wherein the length of the piled teeth on the surface of the warp knitted fabric is adjusted to 0.1-0.3 mm during brushing, shearing, sanding and brushing. The method for producing a suede warp knitted fabric according to claim 5, wherein the warp knitted fabric brushed before sanding or brushing is sheared.