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JP7214075B2 - cosmetic composition - Google Patents

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Publication number
JP7214075B2
JP7214075B2 JP2018547513A JP2018547513A JP7214075B2 JP 7214075 B2 JP7214075 B2 JP 7214075B2 JP 2018547513 A JP2018547513 A JP 2018547513A JP 2018547513 A JP2018547513 A JP 2018547513A JP 7214075 B2 JP7214075 B2 JP 7214075B2
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mass
moisturizing
component
acid
cosmetic
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JPWO2018079210A1 (en
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瞬 小林
恵理子 坂口
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Ajinomoto Co Inc
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

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Description

本発明は、塗布時にべた付きが少なく、肌にしっとり感を付与し、かつ保湿効果の持続性を実感でき、使用感にも優れた化粧料組成物に関するものである。 TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition which is less sticky when applied, imparts a moist feeling to the skin, allows the user to feel the persistence of the moisturizing effect, and is excellent in feeling of use.

従来、皮膚や毛髪用の化粧料には、水分を保持し、かさつき感やぱさつき感を抑えしっとり感を与える目的として、グリセリンや1,3-ブチレングリコール(1,3-BG)等の水溶性多価アルコールや、ムコ多糖類のヒアルロン酸ナトリウム等の水溶性高分子が保湿剤として用いられている。一方で、天然保湿因子の構成成分であるアミノ酸やアミノ酸誘導体であるピロリドンカルボン酸ナトリウムは、安全性の高い保湿剤として注目されている。さらに、保湿力及び吸湿力に優れた保湿剤として、ポリアスパラギン酸塩の配合が提案されている(特開平6-157237号公報)。
しかしながら、ポリアスパラギン酸塩はその保湿効果が充分なものとは言えず、多量に配合すると、皮膚に塗布した際にべたつきが生じ、使用感を損ねるという欠点があった。このような問題を解決するために、以下のような解決案が提案されている。
すなわち、塗布時のべたつきが少なく、肌へのなじみを良くするために、アミノ酸及びその塩、ピロリドンカルボン酸及びその塩並びにグリシンベタインからなる群より選ばれる化合物を併用することが提案されている(特開平7-277916号公報)。
また、べたつきが少なく、肌にすべすべ感を付与するために、リン脂質、液状油、水溶性保湿剤を併用することが提案されている(特開2000-103727号公報)。
しかしながら、これらの技術では、保湿効果を持続的に実感することや、塗布時のべたつきを抑え、しっとり感を付与するには、十分に満足するものではない。
また、グリシルグリシンやアラニルグルタミン等についても、保湿剤としての効果が知られている(特開2006-298796号公報、特許3623548号公報)が、これらの保湿剤は肌との馴染みが良くなく、角層への浸透性に劣る。
Conventionally, water-soluble ingredients such as glycerin and 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG) have been used in cosmetics for skin and hair for the purpose of retaining moisture and giving a moist feeling by suppressing dryness and dryness. Polyhydric alcohols and water-soluble polymers such as sodium hyaluronate, which is a mucopolysaccharide, are used as moisturizing agents. On the other hand, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, which is an amino acid or an amino acid derivative, which is a component of natural moisturizing factors, is attracting attention as a highly safe moisturizing agent. Further, as a moisturizing agent having excellent moisturizing power and hygroscopic power, the blending of polyaspartate has been proposed (Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 6-157237).
However, it cannot be said that the moisturizing effect of polyaspartate is sufficient, and when it is blended in a large amount, it has the drawback of causing stickiness when applied to the skin and impairing the feeling of use. In order to solve such problems, the following solutions have been proposed.
In other words, it has been proposed to use a compound selected from the group consisting of amino acids and their salts, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and its salts, and glycine betaine in combination in order to reduce stickiness upon application and improve skin compatibility ( Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 7-277916).
Also, in order to impart a smooth feel to the skin with little stickiness, it has been proposed to use a phospholipid, a liquid oil, and a water-soluble moisturizing agent in combination (Japanese Unexamined Patent Application Publication No. 2000-103727).
However, these techniques are not fully satisfactory in achieving a sustained moisturizing effect, suppressing stickiness during application, and imparting a moist feeling.
Glycylglycine, alanylglutamine and the like are also known to be effective as moisturizing agents (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2006-298796, Japanese Patent No. 3623548), but these moisturizing agents are familiar with the skin. and poor penetration into the stratum corneum.

本発明は、塗布時にべた付きが少なく、肌にしっとり感を付与し、かつ保湿効果の持続性を実感でき、使用感にも優れた化粧料を提供することを目的とする。 An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic that is less sticky when applied, imparts a moist feeling to the skin, allows a user to feel the persistence of the moisturizing effect, and has an excellent feeling of use.

本発明者らは、上記課題を解決するため鋭意検討した結果、ポリアミノ酸及び/又はその塩を含有する化粧料に、ジペプチド及び/又はその塩を添加することにより、上記課題を解決することができることを見出し、本発明を完成させた。すなわち、本発明は、下記成分(a)及び(b):
(a)ジペプチド及び/又はその塩、
(b)ポリアミノ酸及び/又はその塩
を含有することを特徴とする化粧料を提供する。
The present inventors have made intensive studies to solve the above problems, and found that the above problems can be solved by adding a dipeptide and/or a salt thereof to a cosmetic containing a polyamino acid and/or a salt thereof. I found that it can be done, and completed the present invention. That is, the present invention provides the following components (a) and (b):
(a) a dipeptide and/or a salt thereof,
(b) To provide a cosmetic characterized by containing a polyamino acid and/or a salt thereof.

実施例1~4及び比較例1~4の水溶液サンプルについてのキャパシタンス値変化率を示すグラフである。4 is a graph showing capacitance value change rates for aqueous solution samples of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-4. 実施例5~8及び比較例5~8の化粧水サンプルについてのキャパシタンス値変化率を示すグラフである。10 is a graph showing capacitance value change rates for lotion samples of Examples 5 to 8 and Comparative Examples 5 to 8. FIG.

以下本発明を詳細に説明する。
本発明の化粧料は、(a)ジペプチド及び/又はその塩、並びに(b)ポリアミノ酸及び/又はその塩を含有する。
本発明で用いられる成分(a)であるジペプチドとしては、特に限定されるものではないが、例えばグルタミルリジン、グリシルグリシン、アラニルグルタミン、カルノシン、グリシルチロシン、ジペプチド-11、ジペプチド-17、ジペプチド-19、ジペプチド-2、ジペプチド-8、ジペプチド-9などが挙げられる。中でも好ましくは、グルタミルリジン、グリシルグリシン、及びアラニルグルタミンであり、特に好ましくはグルタミルリジンである。また、塩としては、ナトリウム、カリウム等のアルカリ金属、ジエタノールアミン、トリエタノールアミン等の有機アミン及び塩基性アミノ酸の塩又は塩酸、硫酸、酢酸等の塩が挙げられる。
本発明の化粧料における成分(a)の配合量は、好ましくは0.001質量%~3質量%であり、より好ましくは0.01質量%~2質量%であり、さらに好ましくは0.02質量%~1質量%である。
The present invention will be described in detail below.
The cosmetic of the present invention contains (a) a dipeptide and/or its salt and (b) a polyamino acid and/or its salt.
The dipeptide that is the component (a) used in the present invention is not particularly limited. Dipeptide-19, dipeptide-2, dipeptide-8, dipeptide-9 and the like. Among them, glutamyllysine, glycylglycine and alanylglutamine are preferred, and glutamyllysine is particularly preferred. Salts include alkali metals such as sodium and potassium, organic amines such as diethanolamine and triethanolamine, salts of basic amino acids, and salts of hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, and acetic acid.
The content of component (a) in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.001% by mass to 3% by mass, more preferably 0.01% by mass to 2% by mass, and still more preferably 0.02% by mass. % to 1% by mass.

本発明で用いられる成分(b)であるポリアミノ酸としては、特に限定されるものではないが、例えばポリアスパラギン酸、ポリグルタミン酸などが挙げられる。中でも好ましくは、ポリアスパラギン酸である。また、塩としては、ナトリウム、カリウム等のアルカリ金属、ジエタノールアミン、トリエタノールアミン等の有機アミン又は塩基性アミノ酸の塩が挙げられる。ポリアミノ酸の分子量は、好ましくは500~100,000であり、より好ましくは1,000~50,000であり、さらに好ましくは1,000~10,000である。ポリアミノ酸の分子量は、分子ふるいクロマトグラフィーを用いて測定することができる。分子量を算出する条件は下記の通りである。
カラム:Asahipak GF-1G 7B+GF-510 HQ+GF-310 HQ、溶離液:50mM硫酸アンモニウム、流速:0.5ml/min、カラム温度:40℃、検出:RI、注入量:20μl
本発明の化粧料における成分(b)の配合量は、好ましくは0.01質量%~15質量%であり、より好ましくは0.05質量%~10質量%であり、さらに好ましくは0.1質量%~5質量%である。
また、成分(a)と成分(b)の配合(質量)比率は、好ましくは1:100~1:1であり、より好ましくは1:50~1:1であり、さらに好ましくは1:10~1:1である。成分(a)と成分(b)を併用することにより、肌への分配効率が向上し、肌に残った成分(ア)が角層中に滞留することで、しっとり感を長時間持続させることができたと考えられる。
The polyamino acid that is the component (b) used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but examples thereof include polyaspartic acid and polyglutamic acid. Among them, polyaspartic acid is preferred. Salts include salts of alkali metals such as sodium and potassium, salts of organic amines such as diethanolamine and triethanolamine, and salts of basic amino acids. The molecular weight of the polyamino acid is preferably 500-100,000, more preferably 1,000-50,000, still more preferably 1,000-10,000. The molecular weight of polyamino acids can be measured using molecular sieve chromatography. The conditions for calculating the molecular weight are as follows.
Column: Asahipak GF-1G 7B + GF-510 HQ + GF-310 HQ, eluent: 50 mM ammonium sulfate, flow rate: 0.5 ml/min, column temperature: 40°C, detection: RI, injection volume: 20 µl
The content of component (b) in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and still more preferably 0.1% by mass. % to 5% by mass.
The blending (mass) ratio of component (a) and component (b) is preferably 1:100 to 1:1, more preferably 1:50 to 1:1, still more preferably 1:10. ~1:1. By using the component (a) and the component (b) together, the distribution efficiency to the skin is improved, and the component (a) remaining on the skin stays in the stratum corneum to maintain a moist feeling for a long time. It is thought that

本発明の化粧料には、本発明の効果を損なわない範囲において粉体、顔料、油剤、イオン性界面活性剤、ノニオン界面活性剤、保湿剤、酸化防止剤、増粘剤、皮膜形成剤、有機溶剤、防腐剤、キレート剤、香料等、通常化粧料に用いられる成分を適宜配合することができる。
本発明の化粧料の剤型は任意であり、溶液系、可溶化系、乳化系、粉末分散系等、どのような剤型でもよい。その用途は、化粧水、乳液、クリーム、パック等の皮膚化粧料、シャンプー、リンス、ヘアクリーム、ヘアーセット等の頭髪化粧料、ファンデーション、口紅、アイシャドー等のメーキャップ化粧料に用いることができる。
本発明の化粧料のpHは、特に特定の範囲に限定されるものではないが、一般的には4.5~7である。本発明の化粧料のpHは、pH調整剤を添加して調整してもよい。pH調整剤としては、特に限定されないが、例えば乳酸、クエン酸、グリコール酸、コハク酸、酒石酸、炭酸カリウム、炭酸水素ナトリウム、炭酸水素アンモニウム、水酸化ナトリウム、水酸化カリウム、トリエタノールアミン、モノエタノールアミン等が挙げられる。これらのpH調整剤は、単独で、又は2種以上を組み合わせて用いることができる。
次に、実施例及び比較例により本発明を説明するが、本発明はこれらによって限定されるものではない。
The cosmetic of the present invention contains powder, pigment, oil, ionic surfactant, nonionic surfactant, moisturizing agent, antioxidant, thickener, film-forming agent, Ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as organic solvents, preservatives, chelating agents, and fragrances, can be added as appropriate.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention may have any dosage form, such as a solution system, a solubilization system, an emulsification system, or a powder dispersion system. It can be used for skin cosmetics such as lotions, milky lotions, creams and packs, hair cosmetics such as shampoos, rinses, hair creams and hair sets, and makeup cosmetics such as foundations, lipsticks and eye shadows.
The pH of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is not particularly limited to a specific range, but is generally 4.5-7. The pH of the cosmetic of the present invention may be adjusted by adding a pH adjuster. Examples of pH adjusters include, but are not limited to, lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, potassium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, and monoethanol. Amine etc. are mentioned. These pH adjusters can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be described with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these.

<水溶液サンプル調整方法>
表1に記載の(A)成分、(B)成分、アミノ酸類及び水を順に入れ、80℃にて撹拌し、各成分を溶解させた。その後、25℃の環境でゆっくり撹拌し、室温まで徐冷した後、クエン酸にてpH調整を行い、水溶液サンプルを得た。なお、表1中の配合量は質量%である。
<Aqueous solution sample preparation method>
Components (A), (B), amino acids and water shown in Table 1 were added in order and stirred at 80°C to dissolve the components. Then, the mixture was slowly stirred in an environment of 25° C., slowly cooled to room temperature, and then pH was adjusted with citric acid to obtain an aqueous solution sample. In addition, the compounding quantity in Table 1 is mass %.

Figure 0007214075000001
Figure 0007214075000001

<保湿持続性試験>
[評価方法]
被験者(計4名)は、恒温恒湿室(温度21℃、湿度40%)に入室し、前腕内側部(被験部位)を30℃の水道水3Lで洗浄し、30分間馴化した。馴化した後に、コルネオメーターCM825(Courage+Khazaka社製)を用いて、被験部位(2cm×2cm)のキャパシタンス値(初期値)を測定した。
次に、被験部位に水溶液サンプルを30μL塗布して5.5時間経過後、被験者は、恒温恒湿室に入室し、被験部位を30℃の水道水3Lで洗浄し、30分間馴化した。馴化した後に、被験部位のキャパシタンス値を測定し、初期値との変化率(%)を算出することで、保湿持続性を評価した。
コルネオメーターによるキャパシタンス値は、各部位20回ずつ測定し、その平均値とした。保湿持続性試験の結果を表2に示す。
[判定基準]
A:キャパシタンス値変化率が、+10%以上
B:キャパシタンス値変化率が、+3%~+10%の範囲
C:キャパシタンス値変化率が、-3%~+3%の範囲
D:キャパシタンス値変化率が、-3%未満
<Moisturizing durability test>
[Evaluation method]
The subjects (4 subjects in total) entered a constant temperature and humidity room (temperature: 21°C, humidity: 40%), washed the inside of the forearm (test site) with 3 L of 30°C tap water, and acclimatized for 30 minutes. After acclimatization, the capacitance value (initial value) of the test site (2 cm x 2 cm) was measured using a corneometer CM825 (manufactured by Courage + Khazaka).
Next, 30 μL of the aqueous solution sample was applied to the test site, and after 5.5 hours, the subject entered the constant temperature and humidity room, washed the test site with 3 L of tap water at 30° C., and acclimatized it for 30 minutes. After acclimatization, the capacitance value of the test site was measured, and the rate of change (%) from the initial value was calculated to evaluate the moisturizing persistence.
The capacitance value by a corneometer was measured 20 times at each site and taken as the average value. Table 2 shows the results of the moisturizing durability test.
[criterion]
A: The capacitance value change rate is +10% or more B: The capacitance value change rate is in the range of +3% to +10% C: The capacitance value change rate is in the range of -3% to +3% D: The capacitance value change rate is Less than -3%

<官能評価試験>
[評価方法]
専門評価パネル5名による使用テストを行い、塗布時のしっとり感、べたつきのなさ、6時間後の保湿持続性実感について下記基準により5段階評価し、さらにその平均点をもとめ判定した。官能評価試験の結果を表2に示す。
[評価基準]
5点:非常に良好
4点:良好
3点:ふつう
2点:やや不良
1点:不良
[判定基準]
A:平均点4点以上
B:平均点3点以上~4点未満
C:平均点2点以上~3点未満
D:平均点2点未満
<Sensory evaluation test>
[Evaluation method]
A use test was conducted by 5 professional evaluation panelists, and the moist feeling at the time of application, the lack of stickiness, and the feeling of moisturizing persistence after 6 hours were evaluated on a 5-point scale according to the following criteria, and the average score was determined. Table 2 shows the results of the sensory evaluation test.
[Evaluation criteria]
5 points: very good 4 points: good 3 points: normal 2 points: somewhat poor 1 point: poor [Criteria]
A: Average score of 4 points or more B: Average score of 3 points or more to less than 4 points C: Average score of 2 points or more to less than 3 points D: Average score of less than 2 points

Figure 0007214075000002
表2に示す結果から、実施例1~4の水溶液サンプルは、塗布時のしっとり感、べたつきのなさ、6時間後の保湿持続性実感に優れることがわかる。また、実施例1~4の水溶液サンプルは、保湿持続性試験でも優れた結果を示した。
Figure 0007214075000002
From the results shown in Table 2, it can be seen that the aqueous solutions of Examples 1 to 4 are excellent in moist feeling and non-stickiness at the time of application, and excellent moisturizing persistence after 6 hours. Moreover, the aqueous solution samples of Examples 1 to 4 also showed excellent results in the moisturizing durability test.

<化粧水サンプル調整方法>
表3に記載の(A)成分、(B)成分、アミノ酸類及び水を順に入れ、80℃にて撹拌し、各成分を溶解させた。その後、25℃の環境でゆっくり撹拌し、室温まで徐冷した後、クエン酸にてpH調整を行い、化粧水サンプルを得た。なお、表3中の配合量は質量%である。
<How to adjust lotion sample>
Components (A), (B), amino acids and water shown in Table 3 were added in order and stirred at 80° C. to dissolve each component. Then, the mixture was slowly stirred in an environment of 25° C., slowly cooled to room temperature, and then pH was adjusted with citric acid to obtain a lotion sample. In addition, the compounding quantity in Table 3 is mass %.

Figure 0007214075000003
Figure 0007214075000003

水溶液サンプルと同様にして、保湿持続性試験及び官能評価試験を行った。保湿持続性試験及び官能評価試験の結果を表4に示す。 A moisturizing durability test and a sensory evaluation test were conducted in the same manner as for the aqueous solution samples. Table 4 shows the results of the moisturizing durability test and sensory evaluation test.

Figure 0007214075000004
表4に示す結果から、実施例5~8の化粧水サンプルは、塗布時のしっとり感、べたつきのなさ、6時間後の保湿持続性実感に優れることがわかる。また、実施例5~8の化粧水サンプルは、保湿持続性試験でも優れた結果を示した。
Figure 0007214075000004
From the results shown in Table 4, it can be seen that the lotion samples of Examples 5 to 8 are excellent in moist feeling and non-stickiness at the time of application, and excellent moisturizing persistence after 6 hours. The lotion samples of Examples 5 to 8 also showed excellent results in the moisturizing durability test.

〔処方例1〕
表5に示す配合組成の化粧水を製造した。この化粧水は、塗布時のしっとり感、べたつきのなさ、保湿持続性に優れるものであった。
[Prescription Example 1]
A lotion having the composition shown in Table 5 was produced. This lotion was excellent in moist feeling, non-stickiness, and moisturizing persistence when applied.

Figure 0007214075000005
Figure 0007214075000005

〔処方例2〕
表6に示す配合組成のスキンクリームを製造した。このスキンクリームは、塗布時のしっとり感、べたつきのなさ、保湿持続性に優れるものであった。
[Prescription Example 2]
A skin cream having the composition shown in Table 6 was produced. This skin cream was excellent in moist feeling, non-stickiness, and moisturizing retention when applied.

Figure 0007214075000006
Figure 0007214075000006

〔処方例3〕
表7に示す配合組成のナイトクリームを製造した。このナイトクリームは、塗布時のしっとり感、べたつきのなさ、保湿持続性に優れるものであった。
[Prescription Example 3]
A night cream having the composition shown in Table 7 was produced. This night cream was excellent in moist feeling upon application, non-stickiness, and moisturizing persistence.

Figure 0007214075000007
Figure 0007214075000007

〔処方例4〕
表8に示す配合組成の美容液を製造した。この美容液は、塗布時のしっとり感、べたつきのなさ、保湿持続性に優れるものであった。
[Prescription Example 4]
A beauty essence having the composition shown in Table 8 was produced. This beauty essence was excellent in moist feeling upon application, non-stickiness, and moisturizing persistence.

Figure 0007214075000008
Figure 0007214075000008

Claims (4)

下記成分(a)及び(b):
(a)グリシルグリシン及び/又はアラニルグルタミン
(b)分子量が1,000~10,000であるポリアスパラギン酸
を含有
成分(a)の配合量が0.01質量%~2質量%であり、
成分(b)の配合量が0.01質量%~15質量%であり、
成分(a)と成分(b)の配合比率が1:50~1:1であることを特徴とする化粧料。
Components (a) and (b) below:
(a) glycylglycine and/or alanylglutamine ,
(b) Polyaspartic acid having a molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000
contains
The amount of component (a) is 0.01% by mass to 2% by mass,
The amount of component (b) is 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass,
A cosmetic, characterized in that the mixing ratio of component (a) and component (b) is 1:50 to 1:1 .
成分(a)の配合量が0.02質量%~1質量%である、請求項に記載の化粧料。 2. The cosmetic according to claim 1 , wherein the amount of component (a) is 0.02% by mass to 1% by mass. 成分(b)の配合量が0.05質量%~10質量%であることを特徴とする請求項1又は2に記載の化粧料。 3. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of component (b) is 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass. 成分(a)と成分(b)の配合比率が1:20~1:1である、請求項1~のいずれかに記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3 , wherein the blending ratio of component (a) and component (b) is 1:20 to 1:1 .
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Mask,(ID#):3814189,Mintel GNPD,2016年02月
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