GB2615404A - Two-phase hair conditioning spray - Google Patents

Abstract

Hair treatment composition comprising two superimposed layers and a common interface, containing a water phase (I) and an oil phase (II), characterised in that the oil phase (II) comprises; a) at least one ester of at least one C6-C30 carboxylic acid and at least one C2-C20 alcohol, and; b) at least one partial glyceride of C8-C22 carboxylic acid(s). Preferably, both a) and b) are based on natural materials. Most preferably a) is Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate. Most preferably b) comprises glyceryl cocoate. Ester(s) a) may be present as 10-70 wt.% of the oil phase, and partial glyceride(s) may be present as 1-50 weight per cent of the oil phase. A carbonic ester may be present in the oil phase. Preferably, water phase (I) is >80 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment product. The composition may be free of silicones, mineral oils and ethoxylated compounds but may comprise a betaine ester. Also claimed is a method wherein the composition is shaken to homogeneity and immediately thereafter applied to hair.

Description

Intellectual Property Office Application No GI322186704 RTM Date 1 May 2023 The following terms are registered trade marks and should be read as such wherever they occur in this document: Kytamer Hydagen Intellectual Property Office is an operating name of the Patent Office www.gov.uk/ipo

TWO-PHASE HAIR CONDITIONING SPRAY

Technical Field

[1] The application describes hair treatment compositions with two superimposed layers and a common interface, containing a water phase and an oil phase comprising at least two specific esters. The application further describes a method of conditioning hair using the hair treatment compositions and the use of the hair treatment compositions to improve specific conditioning properties of hair.

Background

[2] Two-phase hair conditioners have long been known from the state of the art and are highly appreciated by consumers for their attractive appearance and ease of use. Typically, these are leave-on products that are preferably applied to the hair (preferably sprayed) immediately after the two phases have been mixed for a brief time to condition the hair.

[3] In the oil phase, many of these products contain silicones and/or alkoxylated emulsifiers.

[4] To improve the sustainability and consumer acceptance of cosmetic products, there is an increasing effort to use raw materials of natural origin with good biodegradability in cosmetic products.

[5] The present application was based on the task of developing 2-phase hair care products in which the use of silicones and/or alkoxylated compounds can be dispensed with. Instead, hair care products should include a high proportion of raw materials of natural origin, as well as have good biodegradability, stability, and excellent conditioning properties.

Description

[6] It has been found that by combining special esters in the oil phase, two-phase hair treatment agents can be provided that meet these requirements to a high degree.

[7] The presence of (cyclic) silicones and/or alkoxylated compounds is not necessary for either the stability or the maintenance properties of such hair treatment products, because the combination of specific esters in specific amounts ensures the provision of two-phase systems with continuous oil and continuous water phases, which are storage stable over a wide temperature range (-20°C to 45°C). The two phases can be mixed and unmixed quickly and thoroughly.

[8] In addition, the hair treatment compositions of the invention exhibit a demonstrable conditioning benefit on hair treated therewith. Combability, detangling, shine, smoothness, and anti-frizz properties of the hair could be improved by using agents according to the invention.

[09] The present invention and preferred embodiments are characterized by the following: 1. Hair treatment composition with two superimposed layers and a common interface, containing a water phase (I) and an oil phase (II), characterized in that the oil phase (II) comprises a) at least one ester of at least one C5-C30 carboxylic acid and at least one C2-C20 alcohol, and b) at least one partial glyceride of C5-C22 carboxylic acid(s).

2 Hair treatment agent according to point 1, wherein both esters a) and b) are based on natural raw materials.

3 Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding points, comprising an ester a) based on olive oil and an optionally branched C4-C10 alcohol.

4 Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding points, comprising an ester a) obtainable under the INCI designation Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate.

5. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding points, comprising a mixture of Hydrogenated Ethlyhexyl Olivate and Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables.

6. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding points, comprising the at least one ester a) in a proportion by weight of 10-70 wt.%, based on the total weight of the oil phase (II).

7. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding points, containing glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl rininoleate or mixtures thereof.

8. Hair treatment composition according to point 7, containing glyceryl cocoate.

9. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding points, comprising the at least one partial glyceride b) in a proportion by weight of 1 -50 wt.%, based on the total weight of the oil phase (II).

10. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding points, additionally containing in the oil phase (II) at least one carbonic acid ester in a proportion by weight of 10-70 wt.%, based on the total weight of the oil phase (II).

11. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding points, comprising symmetrical carbonic acid diesters of carbonic acid and at least one C3-C24 alcohol, preferably at least one ester known under the INICI designation dicaprylyl carbonate.

12. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding points, additionally containing in the oil phase (II) at least one vegetable oil in a proportion by weight of 0.01 -10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the oil phase (II).

13. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding points, comprising the water phase (I) in a proportion by weight >80 wt.% and the oil phase (II) in a proportion by weight <20 wt.% based on the total weight of the hair treatment product.

14. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding points, wherein the water (I) comprises 50-100 wt.% water, based on the total weight of the water phase (I).

15. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding points, containing in the water phase (I) up to 30 wt.% of at least one polyol, based on the total weight of the water phase (I).

16. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding points, containing in the water phase (I) up to 30 wt.% glycerol, based on the total weight of the water phase (I).

17. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding points, containing -based on the total weight of the water phase (I) -up to 10 wt.% of at least one betaine ester of the following general formula [R1(OCH2CH(OR2)CH2)x-OC(0)-CH2-N1*(CH3)3S-wherein -R1 is -H or caprylate, caprate, laurate, myristate, palmitate, stearate, isostearate, oleate, ricinoleate, arachidate, behenate, -R2 is -H, - x is a number from 1.1 to 10, preferably from 1.1 to 6, particularly preferably from 2 to 4, and especially 3, - A-is a physiologically acceptable anion such as formate, acetate, propionate, benzoate, citrate, oxalate, tartrate, (poly)acrylate, fumarate, maleate, lactate, itaconate, glycolate, gluconate, malate, almondate, tiglate, succinate, ascorbate. ;18. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding points, comprising -based on the total weight of the water phase (I) -at least one betaine ester known under the INCI designation polyglycery1-3 betainate acetate. ;19. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding points, which is free from - Silicones - Mineral oils - ethoxylated compounds. ;20. A cosmetic process for conditioning hair in which a hair treatment composition according to any of points 1 to 18 is shaken to homogeneity, immediately thereafter applied (preferably sprayed) to wet or dry hair and left on the hair until the next hair cleansing. ;21 Cosmetic use of a hair treatment composition according to any one of points 1 to 18 for improving hair care, in particular for improving - Gloss - Suppleness Disentangleability Combability Anti-frizz properties. ;[10] The hair treatment compositions according to the invention comprise two optically separate phases which can be homogenized by shaking, and which separate again at rest into two separate, optically detectable continuous phases with a common horizontal phase boundary. ;[11] The emulsion produced by shaking is optimally stable for up to five, preferably up to three, more preferably up to two, and up to one hour before it separates back into the original two phases with a horizontal phase boundary. ;[12] For rapid mixing and demixing of the two phases, it can be advantageous if the water phase (I) and the oil phase (II) have lower viscosity values. In the context of the present invention, "lower viscosity values" are preferably understood to mean viscosity values of the water phase (I) and the oil phase (II) of up to a maximum of 1000 mPas each, more preferably 600 mPas and in particular 400 mPas (measured at 20°C with a Brookfield viscometer DV-II, spindle 2 at 20 rpm). ;[13] For a better detectability of the mixing and demixing of the two phases, it can be further advantageous if at least one of the phases (I) or (II) is transparent. ;[14] Under this condition, sufficient mixing of the two phases can preferably be recognized by the fact that only a single phase is still visible, which can be opaque to milky cloudy. ;[15] In particular, at least one of the two phases (I) and (II) is preferably transparent. ;[16] In the context of the present invention, "transparency" is understood to mean that the water phase (I) and/or the oil phase (II) in the quiescent state preferably has an NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Unit) value of at most 100, preferably at most 75, more preferably at most 50, and in particular at most 25 (measured, for example, with a turbidimeter of the Turbiquant® type from the company Merck). ;[17] In a preferred embodiment, the water phase (I) is transparent to slightly turbid and the oil phase (II) is milky-creamy. ;[18] Also, for better visualization, one of the two phases (I) or (II), preferably the water phase (I), may be colored with a cosmetically acceptable dye. ;[19] It is further desirable and preferred that the hair treatment compositions of the invention are sprayable. ;[20] In sprayable form, the hair treatment compositions of the invention are suitable for application from a pump dispenser. The advantage of such a form of application is its simple, clean, and time-saving manageability, because the hair treatment agents can be distributed from a suitable pump dispenser as a fine spray by simply operating a pump valve and reach all areas of the hair. ;[21] In this way, the hands do not meet the agent and do not need to be cleaned after applying the agent. ;[22] For such a form of application, the ready-to-use hair treatment compositions (i.e. those homogenized by shaking) according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of not more than 1000 mPas, preferably of not more than 800 mPas, more preferably of not more than 600 mPas and in particular of not more than 500 mPas On each case measured at 20°C with a Brookfield viscometer DV-II, spindle 2 at 20 rpm). ;[23] Also preferred for such a form of application is that the hair conditioners are free of propellants. ;[24] In a preferred embodiment, both esters a) and b) are based on natural raw materials. ;[25] The ester a) is preferably an ester based on natural raw materials in which the fatty acids have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the alcohol has 4 to 12 carbon atoms. Especially preferred it is an ester of olive oil. The essential fatty acids of olive oil are oleic acid, linoleic acid, pa lmitic acid. ;[26] The alcohol is preferably a linear or branched, preferably a branched alkyl alcohol with 4 to 10 C atoms. ;[27] Particularly suitable are esters a) from olive oil and branched C4-C10 alcohols. Such esters are known and commercially available, for example under the INCI designation Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate. ;[28] The at least one ester a) can be used in the oil phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention, preferably in a proportion by weight of 10-70 wt.% of the total weight of the oil phase. ;[29] For the purposes of the present invention, it is also possible for ester a) to comprise other components of olive oil in addition to the esters described above. A particularly preferred mixture contains Hydrogenated Ethlyhexyl Olivate and Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (the INCI designation is stated in each case). ;[30] Such products are commercially available, for example, from the company Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG under the name BergaCare® FG Olive or from the company Alexmo Cosmetics under the name Natura Plantasil®. ;[31] In the case that as ester a) one of the previously mentioned commercial products (or an alternative commercial product containing Hydrogenated Ethlyhexyl Olivate and Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables) is used in the oil phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention, the proportion by weight is preferably 10-70 wt.%, more preferably 15 -60 wt.% and in particular 20 -50 wt.% of the total weight of the oil phase. ;[32] The ester b) is preferably a natural feedstock-based ester formed from glycerol mono-and/or diesters of C8-C22 carboxylic acids. ;[33] Preferred glycerol partial esters are those known under the INCI designations glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl rininoleate, or mixtures of these compounds. ;[34] Particularly preferred are glycerol partial esters b) which do not increase the viscosity of the emulsion produced by shaking the hair treatment compositions of the invention too much, so that the hair treatment compositions quickly separate again into two phases when at rest. ;[35] Glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl cocoate or mixtures thereof are particularly suitable. Glyceryl cocoate is particularly preferred. ;[36] The at least one ester b) can be used in the oil phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention, preferably in a proportion by weight of 1 -50 wt.% of the total weight of the oil phase. Weight fractions of 2.5 -40 wt.% and of 5-30 wt.% are particularly preferred. ;[37] The care effect of the oil phase can be increased by adding further emollients. ;Preferably, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention comprise further emollients with a high spreading capacity which do not leave a greasy or sticky film on the scalp and/or hair and do not weigh down the hair, especially when used frequently. Carbonic acid esters, for example, meet these requirements. Moreover, carbonic acid esters are usually accessible from natural sources, so that the products according to the invention can be used to provide hair care compositions suitable for the so-called clean beauty market. ;[38] Particularly suitable are symmetrical carbonic acid diesters of carbonic acid and at least one C3-C24 alcohol, more preferably a C4-C20 alcohol, especially preferably a C5-C16 alcohol, and most preferably caprylic, capryl and/or lauryl alcohol. ;[39] Carbonic acid esters known under the INICI designation dicaprylyl carbonates are particularly preferred emollients. Such products are commercially available, for example, under the name Cetiol® CC from BASF. ;[40] The further emollients, in particular carbonic acid esters, can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably in a proportion by weight of 10 -70 wt.%, more preferably 20 -65 wt.% and 30 -60 wt.%, based on the total weight of the oil phase (II). ;[41] Dicaprylyl carbonate is preferred in the amounts mentioned above. ;[42] For further optimization of the care properties of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention, it can be advantageous if they contain further active ingredients, if these do not negatively affect either the stability or the care effect of the two-phase products. ;[43] The other care active ingredients can be contained in the water phase (1) or in the oil phase (II). Optimally, however, the agents according to the invention comprise only those care active ingredients which are readily soluble either in the water phase (I) or in the oil phase (II) and/or which do not excessively increase the viscosity of phases (I) and/or (II) and thus impede their mixing and/or demixing. ;[44] Examples of suitable further (care) active ingredients that can be added to the oil phase include. ;i) vegetable oils and/or ii) Perfume and/or iii) Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid esters. ;[45] Suitable vegetable oils in the context of the present invention include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil and/or wild rose oil. ;[46] Particularly suitable are previously mentioned vegetable oils, which, like esters a) and b), have a particularly good spread ability on the scalp and hair, which are quickly and well absorbed into the hair fibers and care for them. ;[47] The vegetable oil(s) ii) can preferably be used in the oil phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.01 -10 wt.% (more preferably 0.025 -7.5 wt.% and in 0.05-5 wt.%) of the total weight of the oil phase in each case. ;[48] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the oil phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention comprises (based on their total weight) - 20 -50 wt.% of an ester a), preferably an ester of olive oil and branched C4-C10 alcohols, - 5 -30 wt.% of an ester b), preferably glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl cocoate or mixtures thereof, -60 wt.% of a high spreading emollient, preferably a carbonic acid diester and/or 0.5 to 5 wt.% of a vegetable oil. ;[49] Within this embodiment, it is particularly preferred to use as ester a) Hydrogenated Ethlyhexyl Olivate or a mixture of Hydrogenated Ethlyhexyl Olivate and Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, as ester b) Glyceryl Cocoate and as emollient Dicaprylyl Carbonate. ;[50] Perfumes or perfume oils may preferably be present in the oil phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.01 -2 wt.% of the total weight of the oil phase. ;[51] For the purposes of the present invention, suitable pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid esters are preferably understood to be L-pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid (PCA) glyceryl esters, such as esters of C12-C22, preferably C12-C15 fatty acids. A particularly preferred example is known and commercially available under the INCI designation PCA Glyceryl Oleate. ;[52] Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid esters (PCA glyceryl oleates) can preferably be used in the oil phase of hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.01 -3 wt.% of the total weight of the oil phase. ;[53] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention comprise. -the water phase (I) in a proportion by weight > 80 wt.% and -the oil phase (II) in a proportion <20 wt.% of the total weight of the hairtreatment composition. ;[54] The water phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably comprises 50-100 wt.%, more preferably at least 65-97.5 wt.% and in particular at least 80 -95 wt.% water (based on the total weight of the water phase). ;[55] Other ingredients can be added to the water phase to enhance the care properties. ;Examples of suitable further (care) active ingredients that can be added to the water phase include. ;i) cationic surfactants ii) cationic polymers iii) Protein hydrolysates iv) Po lyols v) Amino acids and/or their physiologically tolerated salts vi) trimethylglycine (betaines) and/or betaine esters. ;[56] Suitable cationic surfactants i) for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferably cationic surfactants with a high hair care potential, a low foaming tendency and the lowest possible emulsifying capacity. Particularly suitable cationic surfactants i) for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are. ;linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated physiologically compatible 01-024-alkyltri(Ci-C4)-alkylammonium salts, di-01-024-alkyldi(01-04)-alkylammonium salts ortriCi-C24-alkyl(Ci-C4)-alkylammonium salts, for example, halide and/or methosulfate salts, in particular chlorides, bromides and methosulfates, such as distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylbenzylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate. ;Cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts containing a methosulfate ion and/or a chloride ion as anion are quite preferred. ;Esterquats containing both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1.2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex®, Dehyquart® and Armocare®. The products Armocare® VGH-70, an N,Nbis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80 and Dehyquart® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats. ;Amidoamines, permanently cationic amidoamines and mixtures thereof. Particularly suitable amidoamines may be selected from brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinolamidopropyldimethylamine, isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, oleamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmamidopropyldimethylamine, or mixtures thereof. Brassicamidopropyldimethylamine Behenamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine or mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. ;[57] Particularly suitable permanently cationic amidoamines may be selected from behenamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, behenamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, oleamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, oleamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, cocamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride, Ricinoleamidopropylethyldimoniumethosulfate, Rinoleamidopropyltrimoniumchloride, Ricinoleamidopropyltrimoniummethosulfate, Stearamidopropylethyldimoniumethosulfate, stearamidopropyl trimonium methosulfate, undecylenamidopropyl trimonium methosulfate, lauramidopropyl PG dimonium chloride, canolamidopropyl ethyl dimonium ethosulfate, or mixtures thereof. ;[58] The cationic surfactant(s) i) may preferably be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.05 to 10 wt.% of the total weight of the water phase. Preferred amounts are from 0.1 to 9 wt.% and from 0.1 to 7.5 wt.%. ;[59] Suitable cationic polymers for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are understood to be, for example, cationic polymers known under the INCI designation "polyquaternium", such as polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-74 and/or polyquaternium-89. ;[60] Cationic polymers derived from polymers of natural origin, such as cellulose, starch or guar polymers, are particularly suitable. ;[61] Cationic cellulose derivatives are offered, for example, by the company Amerchol under the name Polymer JR@ and cationic guar polymers by the company Rheme-Poulenc or Hercules under the names Jaguar® or N-Hance®. ;[62] Other suitable cationic polymers of natural origin are, for example, cationic chitosans, which are commercially available under the names "Kytamer" or "Hydagen", for example. ;[63] Also suitable are the cationic polymers known under the!NCI designation "quaternium" such as quaternium-8, quaternium-14, quaternium-15, quaternium-18, quaternium-22, quaternium-24, quaternium-26, Quaternium-27, Quaternium-30, Quaternium-33, Quaternium-53, Quaternium-60, Quaternium-61, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-78, Quaternium-80, Quatemium-81, Quaternium-82, Quaternium-83 and/or Quaternium-84. ;[64] Other suitable cationic polymers are, for example,-cationic alkyl polyglycosides,-cationized honey, for example the commercial product HoneyquatO 50,-vinylpyrrolidonevinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the designations Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,-quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, -as well as the polymers known under the designations polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18 and polyquaternium-27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,-vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered commercially with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as the third monomer building block, for example under the designation Aquaflexe SF 40. ;[65] Cationic polymers can preferably be used in the water phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.05 to 10 wt.% of the total weight of the water phase. Preferred input amounts are from 0.1 to 9 wt.% and from 0.1 -7.5 wt.%. ;[66] Suitable protein hydrolysates iii) for use in the hair treatment compositions of the invention are understood to be protein hydrolysates of vegetable as well as animal, marine or synthetic origin. ;[67] Preferred animal protein hydrolysates include elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Dehylane (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda). ;[68] Preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates include soy, almond, pea, potato, and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadine (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexeine (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda) and Crotein® (Croda). ;[69] Suitable protein hydrolysates of marine origin include, for example, collagen hydrolysates from fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates from mussels or pearl hydrolysates. Examples of pearl hydrolysates suitable according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG® or Crodarom® Pearl. ;[70] Suitable cationized protein hydrolysates can also be of animal, plant, or marine origin [71] Quaternization of protein hydrolysates or amino acids can be carried out with quaternary ammonium salts such as N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-npropyl)-ammonium halides. In addition, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. ;[72] Typical examples of particularly suitable cationic protein hydrolysates and/or their derivatives are the products known under the INCI designations and commercially available: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCI, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. ;[73] Particularly preferred for use in the hair treatment compositions of the invention are keratin, silk, milk protein, wheat and/or soy protein hydrolysates, which may be quaternized. Keratin and/or wheat and/or silk protein hydrolysates, which may be quaternized, are particularly preferred. ;[74] The -optionally quaternized -protein hydrolysates can be used in the hair treatment compositions of the invention both individually and as a mixture. ;[75] It may be advantageous for some embodiments of the invention if the hair treatment compositions comprise at least one protein hydrolysate of animal or plant origin, and at least one quaternized protein hydrolysate of animal or plant origin. ;[76] The protein hydrolysates and/or quaternized protein hydrolysates can preferably be used in the water phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 7.5 wt.%, preferably of 0.025 to 6 wt.% and in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt.% (based on the total weight of the water phase). ;[77] For the purposes of the present invention, suitable polyols iv) are preferably polyalcohols (or polyhydroxyl compounds) having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples of polyols suitable according to the invention are ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-methyl1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol (pentylene glycol), 1,3-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, sugar alcohols such as sorbitol mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol, xylitol, fructose, glucose, lactose, galactose or mixtures of these polyols. ;[78] Particularly preferred are glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 2-methy1-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glyco1,1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the above substances. Very preferred are 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, dipropylene glycol and/or diglycerol. Glycerin is particularly preferred. ;[79] Polyols may be present in the water phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of up to 30 wt.% of the total weight of the water phase. Preferably, the water phase comprises up to 25 wt.% and up to 20 wt.% of polyols. ;[80] Very preferably, the water phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention comprises glycerol in the amounts mentioned above. ;[81] Suitable amino acids v) may be selected from glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, taurine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, 11-alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4 '-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5 '-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, Smethyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine sulfoxide (L-alliine), L-frans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-hisfidine, Lornithine and/or the physiologically tolerated salts of these amino acids, whereby both the individual amino acids (or their salts) as well as mixtures of these amino acids can be used. salts thereof) as well as mixtures can be used. ;[82] The amino acid(s) or their salt(s) v) can preferably be used in the water phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 7.5 wt.% (more preferably 0.025 to 6 wt.% and in 0.05 to 5 wt.%) of the total weight of the water phase. ;[83] Trimethylglycine (betaine) is an amino acid derivative well known for use in cosmetic agents, available from natural sources such as sugar beet molasses. It is marketed by Evonik, for example, under the name Tego® Natural Betaine and is used as a humectant in skin treatment preparations and as a firming active ingredient in hair treatment products. It was observed that the hair care properties of esters (a) and (b) can be further improved by adding trimethylglycine. Especially the detangling and combing properties of dry hair as well as the soft hair grip up to the hair ends can be improved by adding trimethylglycine. Trimethylglycine may preferably be present in the water phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.5-10 wt.% (preferably 0.75 -9 wt.% and 1 -7.5 wt.% (based on the total weight of the water phase. ;[84] Suitable betaine esters vi) in the sense of the present invention include compounds of the following general formula. ;[R1(OCH2CH(0R2)CH2)x-OC(0)-CH2-Nt(CH3)3]A-wherein R1 is -H or caprylate, caprate, laurate, myristate, palmitate, stearate, isostearate, oleate, ricinoleate, arachidate, behenate, R2 is -H, x is a number from 1.1 to 10, preferably from 1.1 to 6, particularly preferably from 2 to 4, and especially 3, A-represents a physiologically acceptable anion such as formate, acetate, propionate, benzoate, citrate, oxalate, tartrate, (poly)acrylate, fumarate, maleate, lactate, itaconate, glycolate, gluconate, malate, almondate, tig late, succinate, ascorbate. ;[85] Preferably, the radicals R1 and R2 in the abovementioned formula are -H, x is a number from 2 to 4 and A-is acetate. Particularly preferred betaine esters vi) are the compounds known under the INCI designation polyglycery1-3 betainate acetate, which are commercially available, for example, under the name Greenquat® BT from the company Socri. ;[86] The betaine ester(s) vi) may preferably be present in the water phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.05 -10 wt.% (preferably 0.1 -9 wt.% and in 0.2 -7.5 wt.%) (based on the total weight of the water phase. ;[87] Examples of suitable further (care) active ingredients that can be added to the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of up to 2 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment compositions are as follows. ;I. Vitamins II. Active ingredients for pH regulation III. Preservative. ;[88] Suitable vitamins for use in the hair treatment compositions of the invention are understood to be vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors as well as their derivatives from the groups A, B, C, E, F and H. [89] The group of substances known as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Al) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The p-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Examples of vitamin A components include vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, and its esters such as palmitate and acetate. The hair treatment compositions may preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.005-1% by weight, based on the total composition. ;[90] The vitamin B group or complex includes, among others. ;- Vitamin B1 (Thiamine) - Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin) - Vitamin B3. The compounds nicotinic acid and nicofinamide (niacinamide) are frequently listed under this designation. Preferably, the nicotinic acid amide, which may be present in the hair treatment compositions in amounts of 0.005 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition, is -Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). ;[91] Within this group, the panthenol and/or pantolactone is preferred. Usable derivatives of panthenol are the esters and ethers of panthenol as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives include panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. The above-mentioned compounds of the vitamin B5 type may preferably be present in the hair treatment compositions in amounts of 0.05-5% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.1-2 wt.% are particularly preferred -Vitamin B5 (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal) -Vitamin 135 -cf. vitamin H. [92] Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid). Vitamin C can preferably be used in the hair treatment compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 3% by weight, based on the total composition. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. ;[93] Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially c*-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate, and the succinate, may preferably be present in the hair treatment compositions in amounts of 0.005-1% by weight, based on the total composition.

[94] Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" usually refers to essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and arachidonic acid.

[95] Vitamin H. The compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazole-4-valeric acid is known as vitamin H, but the trivial name biotin has now become established for it. Biotin may preferably be present in the hair treatment compositions in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

[96] Particularly preferably, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention may contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicofinamide and biotin are particularly preferred and can be added to the hair conditioners according to the invention both individually and in their combination in the amounts mentioned above.

[97] Suitable active compounds for pH regulation can preferably be selected from the acid's acetic acid, citric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, formic acid, amido sulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acids, D-lactic acid, L-lactic acid, D/L-lactic acid, oxalic acid or from the group of alkalis, such as sodium hydroxide.

[98] Advantageously, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain active ingredients for pH regulation in amounts of 0.01 -5 wt.%, preferably 0.01 -3 wt.% and 0.01 to 2 wt.% (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition).

[99] It has been noted that it is advantageous for particularly good stability of the two phases (I) and (II) of the hair treatment composition according to the invention if they contain -if at all -only certain surfactants and/or emulsifiers in specific amounts.

[100] In this context, "stability" is understood to mean that the two phases separate again quickly after mixing and form a sharp phase boundary at which optimally no turbidity occurs over an extended period and with temperature fluctuations.

[101] Surfactants and/or emulsifiers which excessively promote emulsification and/or suspension of the oil phase in the water phase or vice versa are consequently not suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention.

[102] Furthermore, foam formation is undesirable when the hair treatment composition according to the invention is shaken immediately before use, which is why surfactants/emulsifiers that tend to form strong foam are also excluded.

[103] In a preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain a maximum of 1 wt.%, more preferably a maximum of 0.8 wt.%, particularly preferably a maximum of 0.6 wt.% and in particular a maximum of 0.5 wt.% of anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and/or nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition).

[104] Within this embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the hair treatment compositions according to the invention do not contain any further anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and/or nonionic surfactants.

[105] Particularly preferably, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention do not contain any alkoxylated (ethoxylated) emulsifiers.

[106] Furthermore, it was observed that the presence of various oily and fatty substances can complicate the segregation of the two phases (I) and (II) after their homogenization.

[107] Hair treatment compositions according to the invention which, in addition to the essential and optional ingredients already described, contain in their oil phase (II) a maximum of 0.5% by weight, particularly preferably a maximum of 0.3% by weight and especially a maximum of 0.1% by weight of further oil and/or fatty substances (based on the oil phase (IQ) are therefore of particular advantage.

[108] Optimally, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention do not contain any other oil and/or fatty substances, in particular no fatty alcohols, in addition to the components of the oil phase (II) described earlier in this application.

[109] In another preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are free of fatty alcohols.

[110] By "essentially free" it is understood that the hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain -based on their total weight -a maximum of 0.05% by weight, particularly preferably a maximum of 0.01% by weight and especially 0% by weight of fatty alcohols.

[111] As already stated earlier in this application, it is not necessary to add further ingredients (oil and fatty substances) to the oil phase for the care effect and stability of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention.

[112] Silicones as well as mineral oils or solubilizers for silicone oils or mineral oils such as ethoxylated emulsifiers can be dispensed with.

[113] Therefore, another preferred embodiment of the present invention is characterized by being free of - Silicones - Mineral oils - ethoxylated compounds.

[114] Furthermore, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries, and additives, such as, for example -Structural agents such as maleic acid - Dyes for staining the agent -Anti-dandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine, Climbazole, Propandiol Caprylate.

-Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA,13-alaninediacefic acid and phosphonic acids -Pigments - Antioxidants and/or UV filters -Plant extracts [115] In addition to an aesthetic appearance, the biphasic hair treatment compositions according to the invention have the advantage of being easy to handle and simple to manufacture. The special combination of active ingredients in the hair treatment products ensures rapid mixing of the two phases before application and rapid segregation of the two phases after application. The hydrophilic phase is water-based, which meets consumer needs. Furthermore, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for the care of hair. The presence of (cyclic) silicones and/or of mineral oils and/or ethoxylated emulsifiers is not required for the stability or for the care properties of the hair treatment agents, because the hair treatment agents according to the invention exhibit comparably good conditioning advantages on hair treated therewith compared to agents containing silicones and/or mineral oils. In particular, the shine, suppleness, detangling, combability and anti-fuzz properties of previously stressed and/or damaged hair were significantly improved. The hair treatment compositions according to the invention are sprayable and suitable for application from a pump dispenser. This makes them easy to use and effective in their action, because the fine spray that comes out of the pump dispenser reaches all areas of the hair.

[116] A second objective of the invention is a process for conditioning hair in which a hair treatment composition according to the invention is shaken to homogeneity, immediately thereafter applied (preferably sprayed) to wet or dry hair and left on the hair until the next hair cleaning.

[117] A third objective of the invention is the use of the hair treatment composition according to the invention for improving hair care, for improving/improving shine, smoothness, detangling, combability, anti-frizz properties.

[118] What has been said about the means according to the invention applies to the method and use according to the invention.

[119] The following examples are intended to describe the objects of the invention in more detail, without limiting them thereto.

[120] Examples:

[121] The following compositions (I) to (III) according to the invention were prepared. The quantifies refer to wt.% On each case in the total composition): (I) (II) (III) BergaCare®1 FG Olive 1 -3 1 -3 2 Imwitorn2 928 0.1 -2 0.1 -2 0.6 Cetile3 CC 1 -5 1 -5 3 Vegetable oil 0 -1 0 -1 0.1 Perfume 0 -0.5 0 -0.5 q.s.

Glycerin 0 -3 0.5 -2 1 Greenquat®4 BT 0 -3 0.5 -2 1 Dehyquarr5 A CA 0 -1 L-arginine 0 -1 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0 -1 Panthenol 0 -0.5 Water, active ingredients for pH regulation (pH 4), preservatives, colorants ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 INCI designation: Hydrogenated Ethlyhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG) 62 INCI designation: Glyceryl Cocoate (101 Oleo) 63 INCI designation: Dicaprylyl Carbonate (BASF) CO4 INCI designation: Polyglycery1-3 betainate acetate (Socri) INCI-designation: Aqua, Cetrimonium Chloride (approx. 25% AS) (BASF)

Claims (15)

1. Patent claims: 1. Hair treatment composition comprising two superimposed layers and a common interface, containing a water phase (I) and an oil phase (II), characterized in that the oil phase (II) comprises a) at least one ester of at least one C6-C30 carboxylic acid and at least one C2-C20 alcohol, and b) at least one partial glyceride of C8-C22 carboxylic acid(s).
2. 2. Hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein both esters a) and b) are based on natural raw materials.
3. 3. Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising an ester a) based on olive oil and an optionally branched C4-C10 alcohol.
4. 4. Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising an ester a) obtainable under the INCI designation Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate.
5. 5. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the at least one ester a) in a proportion by weight of 10-70 wt.%, based on the total weight of the oil phase (II).
6. 6. Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one partial glyceride b) comprises glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl capryte, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl rininoleate or mixtures thereof.
7. 7. The hair treatment composition according to claim 6, comprising an ester b) obtainable under the INCI designation glyceryl cocoate.
8. 8. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the at least one partial glyceride b) in a proportion by weight of 1 -50 wt.%, based on the total weight of the oil phase (II).
9. 9. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising in the oil phase (II) at least one carbonic acid ester in a proportion by weight of 10-70 wt.%, based on the total weight of the oil phase (II), preferably at least one ester known under the INCI designation dicaprylyl carbonate.
10. 10. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising in the oil phase (II) at least one vegetable oil in a proportion by weight of 0.01 -10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the oil phase (II).
11. 11. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising -the water phase (I) in a proportion by weight > 80 wt.% and -the oil phase (II) in a proportion by weight <20 wt.% based on the total weight of the hair treatment product.
12. 12. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising -based on the total weight of the water phase (I) -up to 10 wt.% of at least one betaine ester of the following general formula [R1(OCH2CH(OR2)CH2)x-OC(0)-CH2-N+(CH3)3]A-wherein - R1 is -H or caprylate, caprate, laurate, myristate, palmitate, stearate, isostearate, oleate, ricinoleate, arachidate, behenate, - R2 is -H, - x is a number from 1.1 to 10, preferably from 1.1 to 6, particularly preferably from 2 to 4, and especially 3, A-represents a physiologically acceptable anion such as formate, acetate, propionate, benzoate, citrate, oxalate, tartrate, (poly)acrylate, fumarate, maleate, lactate, itaconate, glycolate, gluconate, malate, almondate, tiglate, succinate, ascorbate.
13. 13. Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is free of - Silicones - Mineral oils - ethoxylated compounds
14. 14. A cosmetic process for conditioning hair in which a hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 is shaken to homogeneity, immediately thereafter applied (preferably sprayed) to wet or dry hair and left on the hair until the next hair cleansing.
15. 15. Cosmetic use of a hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for improving hair care, for improving the! the Gloss Suppleness - Disentangleability - Combability - Anti-frizz properties.