GB2618196A - 2-phase silicone spray conditioner - Google Patents
2-phase silicone spray conditioner Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- GB2618196A GB2618196A GB2303036.4A GB202303036A GB2618196A GB 2618196 A GB2618196 A GB 2618196A GB 202303036 A GB202303036 A GB 202303036A GB 2618196 A GB2618196 A GB 2618196A
- Authority
- GB
- United Kingdom
- Prior art keywords
- hair treatment
- hair
- treatment composition
- silicone
- oil
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
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- KYMBYSLLVAOCFI-UHFFFAOYSA-N thiamine Chemical compound CC1=C(CCO)SCN1CC1=CN=C(C)N=C1N KYMBYSLLVAOCFI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 239000011721 thiamine Substances 0.000 description 1
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- AQWHMKSIVLSRNY-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-Octadec-5-ensaeure Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCC=CCCCC(O)=O AQWHMKSIVLSRNY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JREYOWJEWZVAOR-UHFFFAOYSA-N triazanium;[3-methylbut-3-enoxy(oxido)phosphoryl] phosphate Chemical compound [NH4+].[NH4+].[NH4+].CC(=C)CCOP([O-])(=O)OP([O-])([O-])=O JREYOWJEWZVAOR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FAGMGMRSURYROS-UHFFFAOYSA-M trihexadecyl(methyl)azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC FAGMGMRSURYROS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940117985 trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- CFSCETSZQVECLC-UHFFFAOYSA-M trimethyl(1-phenyltridecyl)azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCC([N+](C)(C)C)C1=CC=CC=C1 CFSCETSZQVECLC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trioctanoin Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCC VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DDUTXOWBYBMBQT-UHFFFAOYSA-N triphenyl-[phenyl(silyloxy)silyl]oxysilane Chemical compound C=1C=CC=CC=1[SiH](O[SiH3])O[Si](C=1C=CC=CC=1)(C=1C=CC=CC=1)C1=CC=CC=C1 DDUTXOWBYBMBQT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N tyrosine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000021122 unsaturated fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- NCYCYZXNIZJOKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N vitamin A aldehyde Natural products O=CC=C(C)C=CC=C(C)C=CC1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C NCYCYZXNIZJOKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-SCDXWVJYSA-N xylitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-SCDXWVJYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
- A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/892—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/893—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
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- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Hair treatment composition with two superimposed layers and a common interface, containing a water phase (I) and an oil phase (II), wherein the oil phase (II) comprises: (a) 3-25 % arylated silicone, preferably phenyl trimethicone; (b) 1-15 % silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier, preferably C8-C30 alkyl PEG-x/PPG-y dimethicones; (c) 5-85 % silicone different from (a) and (b), having a viscosity >10,000 cSt at 25 ºC, preferably dimethicones and/or dimethiconols having a viscosity >50,000 cSt at 25 ºC; and (d) 5-90 % silicone different from (a) and (b) having a viscosity of <50 cSt at 25 ºC, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having a viscosity <10 cSt at 25 ºC. The hair treatment composition comprises less than 0.1 % cyclic silicones. The hair treatment composition may additionally comprise a solvent (e) selected from linear or branched C6-C18 alkanes and/or ester oils. The hair treatment composition may comprise up to 10 % cationic surfactant and/or cationic polymer in the water phase (I). Also disclosed is a cosmetic process for conditioning hair where the hair treatment composition is shaken to homogeneity and immediately applied to wet or dry hair, preferably by spray, and left on the hair until the next hair cleansing.
Description
2-PHASE SILICONE SPRAY CONDITIONER
Technical Field
[1] The application describes hair treatment compositions with two superimposed layers and a common interface, containing a water phase and a specific mixture of silicones in an oil phase.
[2] The application further describes a method of conditioning hair using the hair treatment compositions and the use of the hair treatment compositions to improve specific conditioning properties of hair.
Background
[3] Two-phase hair conditioners have long been known from the state of the art and are highly appreciated by consumers for their attractive appearance and ease of use. Typically, these are leave-on products that are preferably applied to the hair (preferably sprayed) immediately after the two phases have been mixed for a short time to condition the hair.
[4] In the oil phase, the vast majority of these products contain cyclic silicones [5] DE 102020202673 described the preparation of a two-phase care spray comprising a mixture of silicones -with cyclomethicone as the main component of the oil phase.
[6] Cyclomethicones have recently been classified by the European Chemicals Agency as a substance of very high concern, which is why significant amounts of cyclomethicones may no longer be used in cosmetic products in the future. However, the development of cyclomethicone-free products can present difficulties; for example, product feel and appearance can be negatively affected by the absence of cyclomethicone. The biggest difficulty in replacing cyclomethicone in cosmetic hair care products is finding conditioning agents that do not weigh hair down and make it greasy. In the special case of two-phase sprays, care must also be taken to ensure that cyclomethicone substitutes do not make the viscosity of the oil phase too high, otherwise rapid mixing and demixing of the water and oil phases cannot be guaranteed.
[7] The present application was based on the task of developing 2-layer hair care products that contain essentially no cyclic silicones. The hair care products are also said to have good stability and excellent conditioning properties.
Description
[8] It has been found that by combining certain silicones in the oil phase, two-phase hair treatment compositions can be provided that meet the aforementioned requirements to a high degree.
[9] The presence of cyclic silicones is not necessary for stability or manageability, nor for improving the care properties of such hair treatment products, because the combination of specific silicones in specific amounts ensures the provision of two-phase systems with continuous oil and continuous water phases, which are storage stable over a wide temperature range (+5°C to 45°C). The two phases can be mixed and unmixed quickly and thoroughly.
[10] In addition, the hair treatment compositions of the invention exhibit a demonstrable conditioning benefit on hair treated therewith. In particular, combability, detangling, shine, smoothness and anti-frizz properties of the hair could be improved by using agents according to the invention.
[11] The present invention and preferred embodiments are characterized by the following
statements
1. Hair treatment composition having two superimposed layers and a common interface, containing a water phase (I) and an oil phase (II), characterized in that the oil phase (II) -based on its total weight -comprises a) 3 -25 wt.% of at least one arylated silicone, b) 1 -15 wt.% of at least one silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier, c) 5-85 wt.% of at least one silicone which differs from a) and b) and which has a viscosity > 10,000 cSt at 25°C, and d) 5-90 wt.% of at least one silicone which differs from a) and b) and has a viscosity <50 cSt at 25°C, wherein the hair treatment composition contains less than 0.1 wt.%, based on its total weight, of cyclic silicones.
2. Hair treatment composition according to statement 1, containing less than 0.05 wt.% of cyclic silicones, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
3. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of the or each arylated silicone a) ranges from 4-20 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the oil phase (II).
4. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of the or each arylated silicone a) ranges from 5-15 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the oil phase (II).
5. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the or each arylated silicone a) is selected from compounds known under the INCI designation phenyl trimethicone.
6. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of the or each silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier b) ranges from 1.5 -12.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the oil phase (II).
7. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of the or each silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier b) ranges from 210 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the oil phase (II).
8. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the or each silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier b) is selected from the group of C8-C30 alkyl PEG-x/PPG-y dimethicones.
9. The hair treatment composition according to statement 8, wherein the or each silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier b) is selected from compounds known under the INCI designation Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone.
10. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of the or each silicone c) ranges from 5 -80 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the oil phase (II).
11. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of the or each silicone c) ranges from 5 -75 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the oil phase (II).
12. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the or each silicone c) is selected from dimethicones, dimethiconols or mixtures thereof which have a viscosity > 25,000 cSt at 25°C.
13. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the or each silicone c) is selected from dimethicones, dimethiconols or mixtures thereof which have a viscosity >50,000 cSt at 25°C.
14. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of the or each silicone d) ranges from 5 -85 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the oil phase (II).
15. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of the or each silicone d) ranges from 7.5 -80 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the oil phase (II).
16. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the or each silicone d) is selected from polydimethylsiloxanes having a viscosity <25 cSt at 25°C.
17. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the or each silicone d) is selected from polydimethylsiloxanes having a viscosity < 10 cSt at 25°C.
18. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding statements, containing in the oil phase (II) additionally 1 -60 wt.% of at least one solvent e) selected from (i) linear or branched C6-C18 alkanes, (ii) Ester oils (iii) or mixtures thereof, where the quantities refer to the total weight of the oil phase (II).
19. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of the or each solvent e) ranges from 5 -55 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the oil phase (II).
20. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the total amount of the or each solvent e) ranges from 7.5 -50 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the oil phase (II).
21. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the or each solvent e)(i) is selected from isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, ischexadecane or mixtures thereof.
22. A hair treatment composition according to any one of statements 1 to 20, wherein solvent e)(ii) is selected from esters of C6-C3D fatty acids with C2-Co alcohols, diols or polyols, carbonic acid esters or mixtures thereof.
23. A hair treatment composition according to statement 22, wherein solvent e)(ii) is selected from symmetrical carbonic acid diesters of carbonic acid and at least one Cs-C24 alcohol, preferably an ester known under the INCI designation dicaprylyl carbonate.
24. A hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, additionally containing in the oil phase (II) at least one vegetable oil in a proportion by weight of 0.01 -10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the oil phase (II).
25. A hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, comprising - the water phase (I) in a proportion by weight > 80 wt.% and - the oil phase (II) in a proportion by weight <20 wt.% based on the total weight of the hair treatment product.
26. A hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding statements, containing in the water phase (I) 80 -100 wt.% water, based on the total weight of the water phase (I).
27. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, comprising in the water phase (I) up to 10% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant, a cationic polymer or mixtures thereof, based on the total weight of the water phase (I).
28. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the or each cationic surfactant is selected from C1-C24 alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium halide and/or methosulfate salts, preferably cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts and in particular cetyltrimethylammonium salts containing as anion a methosulfate and/or a chloride ion.
29. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements, wherein the or each cationic polymer is selected from the group of compounds known by the INCI designations guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-74, polyquaternium-89, or mixtures thereof 30. A cosmetic process for conditioning hair in which a hair treatment composition according to any one of statements 1 to 29 is shaken to homogeneity, immediately thereafter applied (preferably sprayed) to wet or dry hair and left on the hair until the next hair cleansing.
31. Cosmetic use of a hair treatment composition according to any one of statements 1 to 29 for improving hair care, in particular for improving the / the - Gloss - Suppleness - Disentangleability - Combability - Anti-frizz properties.
[12] The hair treatment compositions according to the invention comprise two optically separate phases which can be homogenized by shaking, and which separate again at rest into two separate, optically detectable continuous phases with a common horizontal phase boundary.
[13] The emulsion produced by shaking is optimally stable for up to five, preferably up to three, more preferably up to two, and in particular up to one hour before it separates back into the original two phases with a horizontal phase boundary.
[14] For rapid mixing and demixing of the two phases, it can be advantageous if the water phase (I) and the oil phase (II) have lower viscosity values. In the context of the present invention, "lower viscosity values" are preferably understood to mean viscosity values of the water phase (I) and the oil phase (II) of up to a maximum of 1000 mPas each, more preferably 600 mPas and in particular 400 mPas (measured at 20°C with a Brookfield viscometer DV-II, spindle 2 at 20 rpm.
[15] For a better detectability of the mixing and demixing of the two phases, it can be further advantageous if at least one of the phases (I) or (II) is transparent. Under this condition, sufficient mixing of the two phases can preferably be recognized by the fact that only a single phase is still visible, which can be opaque to milky cloudy. In particular, at least one of the two phases (I) and (II) is preferably transparent.
[16] In the context of the present invention, "transparency" is understood to mean that the water phase (I) in the quiescent state preferably has an NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Unit) value of at most 100, preferably at most 75, more preferably at most 50, and in particular at most 25 (measured, for example, with a turbidimeter of the Turbiguant® type from the company Merck).
[17] In a preferred embodiment, the water phase (I) is transparent to slightly turbid and the oil phase (II) of the care phase is milky-creamy.
[18] Also, for better visualization, one of the two phases (I) or (II), preferably the water phase (I), may be colored with a cosmetically acceptable dye.
[19] It is further desirable and preferred that the hair treatment compositions of the invention are sprayable.
[20] In sprayable form, the hair treatment compositions of the invention are suitable for application from a pump dispenser. The advantage of such a form of application is its simple, clean and timesaving manageability, because the hair treatment agents can be distributed from a suitable pump dispenser as a fine spray by simply operating a pump valve and reach all areas of the hair. In this way, the hands do not come into contact with the agent and do not need to be cleaned after applying the agent.
[21] For such a form of application, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention which are ready for use (i.e. homogenized by shaking) preferably have a viscosity of not more than 800 mPas, preferably of not more than 600 mPas, more preferably of not more than 400 mPas and in particular of not more than 300 mPas (in each case measured at 20°C with a Brookfield viscometer DV-II, spindle 2 at 20 rpm).
[22] Also preferred for such a form of application is that the hair conditioners are free of propellants [23] In a preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain less than 0.05 wt.% of cyclic silicones, based on the total weight of the hair treatment compositions. In particular, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferably free from cyclic silicones.
[24] For the purposes of the present invention, "free from" is understood to mean that no free cyclic silicones are added to the hair treatment compositions. Cyclic silicones, which may be present in traces in commercial products, are not included.
[25] However, even in the case that commercial products contain cyclic silicones in subordinate amounts, it is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if their content -based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition according to the invention -is less than 0.1 wt.%.
[26] As a first essential component, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain 3-25 wt.% of at least one arylated silicone a) in the oil phase (II) (based on the total weight of the oil phase).
[27] Preferably, compositions according to the invention contain in the oil phase (II) 4 -20 wt.% and in particular 5-15 wt.% of arylated silicones (based on the total weight of the oil phase).
[28] Arylated silicones a) suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention may, for example, be selected from the group of compounds known under the INCI designations phenyl methicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenyl methicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, tertramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, triphenyl trimethicone, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, or mixtures thereof [29] In a preferred embodiment, compositions according to the invention contain phenyl trimethicone as an arylated silicone a) in the oil phase. Particularly preferably, the compositions according to the invention contain phenyl trimethicone in the amounts mentioned above.
[30] As a second essential component, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain in the oil phase (II) 1 -15 wt.% of at least one silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier b) (based on the total weight of the oil phase).
[31] Preferably, compositions according to the invention contain in the oil phase (II) 1.5 -12.5 wt.% and in particular 2 -10 wt.% of a silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier b) (based on the total weight of the oil phase).
[32] Suitable emulsifiers lo) for the oil phase (II) are preferably understood to mean C8-C30 alkyl PEG-x/PPG-y dimethicones, the degree of ethoxylation ("x") being preferably 2 to 20, more preferably 3 to 17 and particularly preferably 7 to 12, and the degree of propoxylation ("y") being preferably 0 to 15, more preferably 0 to 10 and particularly preferably 0 to 5. The alkyl group preferably has 8 to 30, more preferably 8 to 24, and especially preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
[33] Examples of particularly suitable silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifiers b) are the products known under the INCI designation Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and commercially available, for example, under the designations Abil® EM 90 or Microcare® Silicone E 1016.
[34] As a third essential component, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain in the oil phase (II) 5 -85 wt.% of at least one silicone c) different from a) and b), which has a viscosity > 10,000 cSt at 25°C.
[35] Preferably, compositions according to the invention contain in the oil phase (II) 5 -80 wt.% and in particular 5-75 wt.% of a silicone c) different from a) and b) (based on the total weight of the oil phase).
[36] For the purposes of the present invention, suitable silicones c) are preferably dimethicones, dimethiconols or mixtures thereof which have a viscosity at 25°C of > 25,000 cSt and in particular > 50,000 cSt.
[37] For the purposes of the present invention, dimethiconols falling under silicone component c) are understood to be compounds corresponding to formulae (I) 01 (11) below R2 RI 0-Si 0-Si-OH (I) R2 R11 71 - R2 R2 HO-Si 0-Si 0-Si
I
R. R_2 R2 0-Si 11z2
RI
0-Si-OH R11
OD 12 R1
where in formulas (I) and (II) - R1 is hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C2 to C30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and/or an aryl radical, - R2 is hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C2 to 030 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and/or an aryl radical, and - x, y and z each independently for an integer from 0 to 50,000.
[38] Dimethiconols are also known as silicone gums and usually have a high molecular weight and viscosity. Its molecular weight is preferably > 10,000 daltons, more preferably >50,000 daltons and especially > 100,000 daltons. Furthermore, suitable dimethiconols according to the invention have a viscosity in the range of > 10,000 cP, preferably > 25,000 cP and in particular > 50,000 cP (in each case measured at 25°C using a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970).
[39] Dimethiconols suitable according to the invention are commercially available, for example, under the name Dowsil® 1515 Gum, Dowsir OHX-0080 from Dow Corning.
[40] It is also possible that particularly high-viscosity dimethiconol is used as a premix with a lower-viscosity component (usually lower-viscosity silicones) in the hair treatment compositions of the invention. On the one hand, this can facilitate the incorporation of the silicone component c) into the oil phase (II) and, on the other hand, promote a particularly appealing product feel and appearance of the hair treatment compositions.
[41] Corresponding premixes are known and available in the prior art, for example under the trade names Dowsir 1507, Serasence GB 17, Belsir GB 1020.
[42] Dimethicones, which fall under silicone component c), include, for example, compounds of the formula (Ill) (CH3)3Si-[0-Si(CH3)2]x-0-Si(CH3)3 (Ill), in which x is a number from 120 to 10000, more preferably 150 to 9000 and in particular 175 to 7500.
[43] Preferred dimethicones falling under silicone component c) are polydialkylsiloxanes having a viscosity >25,000 cSt at 25°C and in particular > 50,000 cSt (in each case measured at 25°C using a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970).
[44] Corresponding dimethicones are known and available in the prior art, for example under the trade names Xiameter® PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 60,000 cSt, Xiameter® PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 100,000 cSt, Dowsil® DM 60000.
[45] As a fourth essential component, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain in the oil phase (II) 5 -90 wt.% of at least one silicone d) different from a) and b), which has a viscosity < 50 cSt at 25°C.
[46] Preferably, compositions according to the invention contain in the oil phase (II) 5 -85 wt.% and in particular 7.5 -80 wt.% of at least one silicone d) different from a) and b) (based on the total weight of the oil phase).
[47] Preferably, silicones d) are non-volatile. By the term "non-volatile" it is understood that silicones d) preferably have a boiling point > 300°C (760 mmHg) and have low to no vapor pressure.
[48] Preferred silicones d) are polydialkylsiloxanes (dimethicones) which have a viscosity < 25 cSt at 25°C and, in particular, < 10 cSt (in each case measured at 25°C using a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970).
[49] Corresponding silicones d) are known and available in the prior art, for example under the trade names Xiameter® PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 0.65 -2 cS, Xiameter® PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2 cS, Xiametei-®PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5 cS, Xiameter® PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10 cS, Dowsir DM 5.
[50] In addition to the silicone mixture a) -d), the oil phase (II) of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention may contain further ingredients to enhance the product properties.
[51] As suitable further components, the oil phase (II) may contain, for example.
e) Solvent for one or more of components a) -d),
f) Vegetable oils
g) or mixtures thereof [52] In a preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention additionally contain in the oil phase (II) 1 -60 wt.% of at least one solvent e) for one or more of the components a), b), c), d) selected from (i) linear or branched C6-C18 alkanes, (ii) Ester oils (Hi) or mixtures thereof, where the quantities refer to the total weight of the oil phase Oft [53] Particularly preferably, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain 5-55 wt.% and in particular 7.5 -50 wt.% of at least one solvent e) in the oil phase (II) (based on their total weight of the oil phase (II)). Solvents e) can help to dissolve higher-to high-viscosity silicones in particular even better in the oil phase, which can improve product manageability.
[54] Linear or branched, medium-chain C6-C18 alkanes e)(i) are particularly suitable as solvents in the oil phase (II) of hair treatment compositions according to the invention because, in addition to an excellent solubilizing capacity for one or more of components a) -d), they do not impair the product properties (good mixing and rapid demixing of the two phases (I) and OW and also exhibit an excellent hair care effect. A weighting or regreasing of the hair by the use of linear or branched, medium-chain C6-C18 alkanes could not be observed.
[55] Particularly suitable are branched C6-C18 alkanes and, among them, isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane or any mixtures thereof [56] As examples of the fatty acids used in esters (e)(ii) are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, and mixtures thereof. Examples of the alcohol components in the esters are isopropyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, caprin alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof.
[57] The monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 C atoms are preferred. A particularly preferred such monoester is isopropyl isostearate.
[58] Another preferred ester (which may be used alone or preferably in combination with one or more different esters) is neopentyl glycol diheptanoate.
[59] The 06-030 fatty acid may be unsaturated. A preferred ester of a 06-030 unsaturated fatty acid with a 02-030 alcohol is heptylundecylenate.
[60] Also suitable are isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), isononanoic acid 016-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate/ caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V).
[61] Another preferred ester is PPG-3 benzyl thermyristate.
[62] Another preferred ester is shea butter ethyl ester.
[63] In a preferred embodiment, the ester e)(ii) is a symmetric, unsymmetric or cyclic ester of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols. Particularly preferred is ester e)(ii) selected from esters of carbonic acid with C3-24 alcohols and especially preferred are symmetrical esters of carbonic acid with 03-24 alcohols, especially dicaprylyl carbonate (ester of carbonic acid with n-octyl alcohol). Such products are known and available, for example, under the trade name Cetiol® CC.
[64] In a preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention additionally contain in the oil phase (II) at least one vegetable oil in a proportion by weight of 0.01 -10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the oil phase (II), to increase the care properties.
[65] Suitable vegetable oils in the context of the present invention include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, 1 I macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil walnut oil and/or wild rose oil.
[66] Particularly suitable are previously mentioned vegetable oils, which have a very good spread ability on the scalp and hair, quickly and well absorbed into the hair fibers and nourish them.
[67] In a further preferred embodiment, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention comprise: - the water phase (I) in a proportion by weight > 80 wt.% and - the oil phase (II) in a proportion by weight <20 wt.% based on the total weight of the hair treatment product.
[68] The water phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably comprises 80 -100 wt.%, more preferably at least 82.5 -99 wt.% and in particular at least 85-97.5 wt.% water (based on the total weight of the water phase).
[69] Further ingredients can be added to the water phase (I) to enhance the care properties of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention Examples of suitable further (care) active ingredients that can be added to the water phase (I) in an amount of up to 10 wt.% (based on the total weight of the water phase (I)) include.
i) cationic surfactants ii) cationic polymers iii) or mixtures thereof.
[70] Suitable cationic surfactants i) for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferably cationic surfactants with a high hair care potential, a low foaming tendency and the lowest possible emulsifying capacity.
[71] Particularly suitable cationic surfactants i) for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are.
- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated physiologically acceptable C1-C24-alkyltri(C1-C4)-alkylammonium salts, di-C1-C24-alkyldi(C1-C4)-alkylammonium salts or tri-C1-C24-alkyl(C1-C4)-alkylammonium salts, for example halide and/or methosulfate salts, in particular chlorides, bromides and methosulfates, such as distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylbenzylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.
Quite preferred are C1-C1-alkyltri(C1-04)-alkylammonium halide and/or methosulfate salts and, in particular, cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts containing a methosulfate ion and/or a chloride ion as anion.
Esterquats containing both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1.2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex®, Dehyquart® and Armocare. The products Armocare VGH-70, an N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® 0-4046, Dehyquart® L80 and Dehyquart® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.
Amidoamines, permanently cationic amidoamines and mixtures thereof.
Particularly suitable amidoamines may be selected from brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyl-dimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, Cocamidopropyldimethylamine, Ricinolamidopropyldimethylamine, lsostearamidopropyldimethylamine, Oleamidopropyldimethylamine, Behenamidopropyldimethylamine, Palmamidopropyldimethylamine or mixtures thereof. Brassicamidopropyldimethylamine Behenamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine or mixtures thereof are particularly preferred Particularly suitable permanently cationic amidoamines may be selected from behenamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, behenamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, oleamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, oleamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, cocamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride, Ricinoleamidopropylethyldimoniumethosulfate, Rinoleamidopropyltrimoniumchloride, Ricinoleamidopropyltrimoniummethosulfate, Stearamidopropylethyldimoniumethosulfate, stearamidopropyl trimonium methosulfate, undecylenamidopropyl trimonium methosulfate, lauramidopropyl PG dimonium chloride, canolamidopropyl ethyl dimonium ethosulfate, or mixtures thereof [72] Particularly suitable for use in the hair treatment compositions of the invention are 01-024-alkyltri(Ci-C4)-alkylammonium halide and/or methosulfate salts and, in particular, cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts containing a methosulfate ion and/or a chloride ion as anion.
[73] Suitable cationic polymers (ii) for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are understood to be, for example, cationic polymers known under the INCI designation "polyquaternium", such as polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-74 and/or polyquaternium-89.
[74] Cationic polymers derived from polymers of natural origin, such as cellulose, starch or guar polymers, are particularly suitable.
[75] Cationic cellulose derivatives are offered, for example, by the company Amerchol under the name Polymer JR® and cationic guar polymers by the company Rhone-Poulenc or Hercules under the names Jaguar® or N-Hance®.
[76] Other suitable cationic polymers of natural origin are, for example, cationic chitosans, which are commercially available under the names "Kytamer" or "Hydagen", for example.
[77] Also suitable are the cationic polymers known under the INCI designation "quaternium" such as quaternium-8, quaternium-14, quaternium-15, quaternium-18, quaternium-22, quaternium-24, quaternium-26, Quaternium-27, Quaternium-30, Quaternium-33, Quaternium-53, Quaternium-60, Quaternium-61, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-78, Quaternium-80, Quaternium-81, Quaternium-82, Quaternium-83 and/or Quaternium-84.
[78] Other suitable cationic polymers are, for example,-cationic alkyl polyglycosides,-cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat® 50,-vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium methochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the designations Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,-quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, -as well as the polymers known under the designations polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18 and polyquaternium-27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,-vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered commercially with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as the third monomer building block, for example under the designation AquafleX® SF 40.
[79] Particularly suitable for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are the compounds known under the INCI designations guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-74, polyquaternium-89, or mixtures thereof.
[80] Examples of suitable further (care) active ingredients that can be added to the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of up to 2 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment compositions are.
- Protein hydrolysates - Polyols - Amino acids Betaine - Vitamins - Active ingredients for pH regulation Preservative.
[81] Suitable protein hydrolysates for use in the hair treatment compositions of the invention are understood to be protein hydrolysates of vegetable as well as animal, marine or synthetic origin.
[82] Preferred animal protein hydrolysates include elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sor (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (lnolex) and Kerasor (Croda).
[83] Preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates include soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (lnolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda) and Crotein® (Croda).
[84] Suitable protein hydrolysates of marine origin include, for example, collagen hydrolysates from fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates from mussels or pearl hydrolysates. Examples of pearl hydrolysates suitable according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BO® or Crodarom® Pearl [85] Suitable cationized protein hydrolysates can also be of animal, plant or marine origin.
[86] Quaternization of protein hydrolysates or amino acids can be carried out with quaternary ammonium salts such as N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propy1)-ammonium halides. In addition, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
[87] Typical examples of particularly suitable cationic protein hydrolysates and/or their derivatives are the products known under the INCI designations and commercially available: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCI, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.
[88] Particularly preferred for use in the hair treatment compositions of the invention are keratin, silk, milk protein, wheat and/or soy protein hydrolysates, which may be quaternized. Keratin and/or wheat and/or silk protein hydrolysates, which may be quaternized, are particularly preferred.
[89] The -optionally quaternized -protein hydrolysates can be used in the hair treatment compositions of the invention both individually and as a mixture.
[90] It may be advantageous for some embodiments of the invention if the hair treatment compositions comprise at least one protein hydrolysate of animal or plant origin, and at least one quaternized protein hydrolysate of animal or plant origin.
[91] The protein hydrolysates and/or quaternized protein hydrolysates can preferably be used in the water phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 7.5 wt.%, preferably of 0.025 to 6 wt.% and in particular in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt.% (based on the total weight of the water phase).
[92] For the purposes of the present invention, suitable polyols are preferably understood to be polyalcohols (or polyhydroxyl compounds) with 2 to 20 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples of polyols suitable according to the invention are ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol (pentylene glycol), 1,3-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanedicl, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, sugar alcohols such as sorbitol mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol, xylitol, fructose, glucose, lactose, galactose or mixtures of these polyols.
[93] Particularly preferred are glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 2-methy1-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glyco1,1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the above substances. Very preferred are 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, dipropylene glycol and/or diglycerol. Glycerine is particularly preferred.
[94] Polyols may be present in the water phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of up to 30 wt.% of the total weight of the water phase. Preferably, the water phase comprises up to 25 wt.% and in particular up to 20 wt.% of polyols.
[95] Very preferably, the water phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention comprises glycerol in the amounts mentioned above.
[96] Suitable amino acids may be selected from glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, taurine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, R-alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, L-3',4'-Dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-Lmethionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine sulfoxide (L-alliine), L-frans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (Lpyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine and/or the physiologically tolerated salts of these amino acids, whereby both the individual amino acids (or their salts) as well as mixtures of these amino acids can be used. salts thereof) as well as mixtures can be used.
[97] The amino acid(s) or their salt(s) can preferably be used in the water phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 7.5 wt.% (more preferably 0.025 to 6 wt.% and in particular 0.05 to 5 wt.%) of the total weight of the water phase.
[98] Trimethylglycine (betaine) is an amino acid derivative well known for use in cosmetic products, available from natural sources such as sugar beet molasses. It is marketed by Evonik, for example, under the name Tego® Natural Betaine and is used as a humectant in skin treatment preparations and as a firming active ingredient in hair treatment products.
[99] It was observed that the hair care properties of esters (a) and (b) can be further improved by adding trimethylglycine. Especially the detangling and combing properties of dry hair as well as the soft hair grip up to the hair ends can be improved by adding trimethylglycine.
[100] Trimethylglycine can preferably be present in the water phase of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.5 -10 wt.% (preferably 0.75 -9 wt.% and in particular 1 -7.5 wt.% (based on the total weight of the water phase.
[101] Suitable vitamins for use in the hair treatment compositions of the invention are understood to be vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors as well as their derivatives from the groups A, B, C, E, F and H. [102] The group of substances known as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The p-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Examples of vitamin A components include vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, and its esters such as palmitate and acetate. The hair treatment compositions may preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.005-1% by weight, based on the total composition.
[103] The vitamin B group or complex includes, among others, - Vitamin Bi (Thiamine) - Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin) - Vitamin B3. The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are frequently listed under this designation Preferably, the nicotinic acid amide, which may be present in the hair treatment compositions in amounts of 0.005 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition, is - Vitamin 135 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone).
[104] Within this group, the panthenol and/or pantolactone is preferred. Usable derivatives of panthenol are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol as well as cationically derivatized panthenols Individual representatives include panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. The above-mentioned compounds of the vitamin B5 type may preferably be present in the hair treatment compositions in amounts of 0.05-5% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.1-2 wt.% are particularly preferred - Vitamin Be (pyridoxine as well as pyndoxamine and pyridoxal) - Vitamin B7 -cf. vitamin H. [105] Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid). Vitamin C can preferably be used in the hair treatment compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 3% by weight, based on the total composition. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
[106] Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, may preferably be present in the hair treatment compositions in amounts of 0.005-1% by weight, based on the total composition.
[107] Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" usually refers to essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
[108] Vitamin H. The compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazole-4-valeric acid is known as vitamin H, but the trivial name biotin has since become established. Biotin may preferably be present in the hair treatment compositions in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
[109] Particularly preferably, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention may contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred and can be added to the hair conditioners according to the invention both individually and in their combination in the amounts mentioned above.
[110] Suitable active ingredients for pH regulation can preferably be selected from the acid's acetic acid, citric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, formic acid, amido sulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acids, D-lactic acid, L-lactic acid, D/L-lactic acid, oxalic acid or from the group of alkalis, such as sodium hydroxide in particular.
[111] Advantageously, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain active ingredients for pH regulation in amounts of 0.01 -5 wt.%, preferably 0.01 -3 wt.% and in particular 0.01 to 2 wt.% (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition).
[112] It has been found that it is advantageous for particularly good stability of the two phases (I) and (II) of the hair treatment composition according to the invention if they contain -if at all -only certain surfactants and/or emulsifiers in specific amounts. In this context, "stability" is understood to mean that the two phases separate again quickly after mixing and form a sharp phase boundary at which optimally no turbidity occurs over a long period of time and with temperature fluctuations.
[113] Surfactants and/or emulsifiers which excessively promote emulsification and/or suspension of the oil phase in the water phase or vice versa are consequently not suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention.
[114] Furthermore, foam formation is undesirable when the hair treatment composition according to the invention is shaken immediately before use, which is why surfactants/emulsifiers that tend to form strong foam are also excluded.
[115] In a preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention -with the exception of those mentioned above -contain a maximum of 1 wt.%, more preferably a maximum of 0.8 wt.%, particularly preferably a maximum of 0.6 wt.% and in particular a maximum of 0.5 wt.% of anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and/or non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition). Within this embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the hair treatment compositions according to the invention -with the exception of those mentioned so far -do not contain any other anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and/or non-ionic surfactants.
[116] Furthermore, it was observed that the presence of various oily and fatty substances can complicate the segregation of the two phases (I) and (II) after their homogenization.
[117] Hair treatment compositions according to the invention which, in addition to the essential and optional ingredients already described, contain in their oil phase (II) a maximum of 0.5% by weight, particularly preferably a maximum of 0.3% by weight and especially a maximum of 0.1% by weight of further oil and/or fatty substances (based on the oil phase (II)) are therefore of particular advantage.
[118] Optimally, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention do not contain any further oil and/or fatty substances, in particular no fatty alcohols, in addition to the components of the oil phase (II) described earlier in this application [119] In another preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are substantially free of fatty alcohols. By "essentially free" it is understood that the hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain -based on their total weight -a maximum of 0.05% by weight, particularly preferably a maximum of 0.01% by weight and especially 0% by weight of fatty alcohols.
[120] Furthermore, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example - Structural agents such as maleic acid - Dyes for staining the agent - Anti-dandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine, Climbazole, Propandiol Caprylate.
- Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, p-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids - Pigments - Antioxidants and/or UV filters -Herbal extracts.
[121] In addition to an aesthetic appearance, the two-layer (two-phase) hair treatment compositions according to the invention have the advantage of being easy to handle and simple to manufacture. The special combination of active ingredients in the hair treatment products ensures rapid mixing of the two phases before application and rapid segregation of the two phases after application. The hydrophilic phase is predominantly water-based, which meets consumer needs. Furthermore, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for the care of hair. The presence of cyclic silicones is not required for either the stability or the conditioning properties of the hair treatment compositions, because the hair treatment compositions of the invention exhibit good conditioning benefits on hair treated therewith. In particular, the shine, suppleness, detangling, combability and anti-frizz properties of previously stressed and/or damaged hair were significantly improved. The hair treatment compositions according to the invention are sprayable and suitable for application from a pump dispenser. This makes them easy to use and effective in their action, because the fine spray that comes out of the pump dispenser reaches all areas of the hair.
[122] A second object of the invention is a method for conditioning hair in which a hair treatment composition according to the invention is shaken to homogeneity, immediately thereafter applied (preferably sprayed) to wet or dry hair, and left on the hair until the next hair cleaning [123] A third objective of the invention is the use of the hair treatment composition according to the invention for improving hair care, in particular for improving/improving shine, smoothness, detangling, combability, anti-frizz properties.
[124] What has been said about the means according to the invention applies to the method and use according to the invention.
[125] The following examples are intended to describe the objects of the invention in more detail, without limiting them thereto.
[126] Examples:
The following compositions (I) to (IV) according to the invention were prepared. The quantities refer to wt.% (in each case in the total composition): (I) (II) (III) (IV) Oil phase Phenyl Trimethicone 1 1 1 1 Microcare Silicone E 1016"1 0.3 0.5 0.5 0.5 Dowsil PMX-1507*2 4 Dimethicone 5 cSt 1 1 0.7 0.7 Trisiloxane" fluid 1 cSt 5 5 Perfume 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Dowsil OHX-0080*3 fluid 6.93 Polydimethylsiloxane 60,000 cSt 4.3 4.3 Cetiol 00*4 1 1 lsododecane 5 Water phase Sodium benzoate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Luviquat 550' 1 1 1 1 Dehyquart A CA" 1 0.6 0.6 0.6 Lactic acid 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 Water, active ingredients for pH regulation (pH 3-4), preservatives, colorants ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 *Xiameter® PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 0.65 -2 cS INCI-designation: Cetyl PEG/ PPG 10/1 Dimethicone INCI-designation: Dimethicone and Dimethiconol (Dow) INCI-designation: Dimethiconol (Dow) INCI-designation: Dicaprylyl Carbonate (BASF) INCI-designation: Polyquaternium-16 (BASF) INCI-designation: Cetrimonium Chloride (BASF)
Claims (9)
- CLAIMS1 A hair treatment composition having two superimposed layers and a common interface, containing a water phase (I) and an oil phase (II), characterized in that the oil phase (II) -based on the total weight of the oil phase (II) -comprises a) 3-25 wt.% of at least one arylated silicone, b) 1 -15 wt.% of at least one silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier, c) 5-85 wt.% of at least one silicone which differs from a) and b) and which has a viscosity > 10,000 cSt at 25°C, and d) 5-90 wt.% of at least one silicone which differs from a) and b) and has a viscosity <50 cSt at 25°C, wherein the hair treatment composition contains less than 0.1 wt.%, based on its total weight, of cyclic silicones.
- 2 A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein the or each arylated silicone a) is selected from compounds known under the INCI designation phenyl trimethicone.
- 3. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the or each silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier b) is selected from the group of C8-C30 alkyl PEG-x/PPGy dimethicones.
- 4. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the or each silicone c) is selected from dimethicones, dimethiconols or mixtures thereof which have a viscosity > 50,000 cSt at 25°C.
- 5. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the or each silicone d) is selected from polydimethylsiloxanes having a viscosity < 10 cSt at 25°C.
- 6. A hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, additionally containing 1 -60 wt.% of at least one solvent e) selected from (i) linear or branched C6-C18 alkanes, (ii) Ester oils (iii) mixtures of (i) and (i1), where the quantities refer to the total weight of the oil phase (II).
- 7. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the water phase (I) in a proportion by weight > 80 wt.% and the oil phase (II) in a proportion by weight <20 wt.% based on the total weight of the hair treatment product.
- 8. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing in the water phase (I) 80 -100 wt.% water, based on the total weight of the water phase (I).
- 9 A hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising in the water phase (I) up to 10 wt.% of at least one cationic surfactant, cationic polymer, or mixtures thereof, based on the total weight of the water phase (I).A cosmetic process for conditioning hair in which a hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 is shaken to homogeneity, immediately thereafter applied to the wet or dry hair -preferably sprayed -and left on the hair until the next hair cleansing.
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