WO2009000570A2

WO2009000570A2 - Cosmetic composition containing a champagne extract

Info

Publication number: WO2009000570A2
Application number: PCT/EP2008/054254
Authority: WO
Inventors: Ingrid Bitter
Original assignee: Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
Priority date: 2007-06-28
Filing date: 2008-04-09
Publication date: 2008-12-31
Also published as: DE102007030099A1; WO2009000570A3

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions for washing and conditioning skin and hair. Said cosmetic compositions contain a) a champagne extract. Using said compositions greatly and lastingly helps maintain the natural moisture of skin and hair while providing a significantly smoother feel to skin and hair.

Description

"Cosmetic composition containing a champagne extract"

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing a champagne extract.

The cosmetic treatment of skin and hair is an important part of human body care. For example, human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. In this case, means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play a prominent role.

Not least by the heavy use of hair, for example by dyeing or perming as well as by the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect increases. Such care products affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Thus, following such treatments, for example, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized, as well as the outer structure of the hair be smoothed, which is reflected by an increased gloss, or the hair to be protected from increased splits ,

It has therefore long been customary to subject the hair to a special aftertreatment. In this case, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse. This treatment, depending on the formulation of the Combability, which improves the hold and the fullness of the hair, increases the shine and reduces the splitting rate.

Furthermore, so-called combination preparations have recently been developed in order to reduce the expense of the usual multi-stage process, especially in the direct application by consumers.

These preparations contain, in addition to the usual components, for example for the cleaning of the hair, in addition to active ingredients which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment agents. The consumer thus saves an application step; At the same time, packaging costs are reduced because one product is less needed.

The available active ingredients both for separate aftertreatment agents and for combination preparations generally have a preferential effect on the hair surface. Thus, active ingredients are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, better wet or dry combabilities or prevent splitting. Just as important as the external appearance of the hair, however, is the internal structural cohesion of the hair fibers, which can be greatly influenced, in particular, by oxidative and reductive processes such as dyeing and perming.

However, the known active ingredients can not cover all needs sufficiently. There is therefore still a need for active ingredients or combinations of active substances for cosmetic products with good care properties and good biodegradability. In particular in dye-containing and / or electrolyte-containing formulations, there is a need for additional skin-care active ingredients which can be incorporated without problems into known formulations.

Furthermore, the compatibility of the cosmetic compositions is an extremely important criterion. In relevant dermatological journals, reports of increasing intolerance in broad sections of the population are piling up on everyday products. These intolerances are based, among other things, on the changing consumer habits and the availability of the most exotic raw materials and foods in daily use. Consumers will therefore often For example, they may be advised to use local products in their diet. Therefore, a particularly great challenge for the cosmetics chemist is to develop cosmetics for the cleansing and care of skin and hair preferably from particularly compatible and already well-proven raw materials. Particular attention is paid to the specific selection of selected raw materials, which can fulfill multifunctional tasks in the formulation, so that as few ingredients as possible are contained in one formulation. The fewer ingredients in a formula, the better these ingredients are known, the lower the risk of intolerance. If, in exceptional cases, a hypersensitive reaction occurs, the allergist can very quickly determine the irritating ingredient for this consumer because of the few ingredients. The cosmetics are thus safer overall in use and in the compatibility for the consumer.

Wanted as nourishing agents therefore in particular already long used in cosmetic products ingredients, which are characterized by a particularly good tolerability. At the same time, however, the spectrum of action and the property profile of the cosmetic composition must not be adversely affected by the use of the mild and particularly well-tolerated ingredients as compared to the conventional compositions. This is further complicated by the fact that in the compositions according to the invention only so few ingredients are used as absolutely necessary.

Detergents for skin and hair, such as those commercially available as liquid soaps, shampoos, shower baths, bubble baths, shower gels and washing gels, not only have to have a good cleaning power, but should continue to be well tolerated by the skin and mucous membranes and also if used frequently, do not cause excessive defatting or dryness. In addition, the consumer judges the performance characteristics but also on the amount and quality of the foam forming in the application, after the care effect and the freshness feeling. In modern skin and hair treatment products, one usually tries to combine all these requirements in one product. However, extensive studies have shown that, for example, shower baths are generally judged by the consumer either as a freshness-oriented product or as a nourishing product. In the case of fresh-oriented products, the freshness experience is judged positively, but skin-care aspects are missed by the consumer. On the other hand, the nourishing products provide the skin and hair with nourishing substances, but have the consumer's criticized disadvantages of lesser freshness and possibly lower foaming power, which is usually associated with the feeling of poorer cleaning performance.

The cleaning and care of dry skin is an even greater problem. Due to the usually high surfactant content especially the dry skin is even more stressed. Due to the high surfactant content of the dry skin lipids are largely removed. As a result, this skin type dries even more, becoming brittle, cracked and flaky. This appearance is evident both on the body and on the scalp. Usually, cleaning agents for use on dry skin are therefore added refatting substances. However, these in turn lead to a significantly weaker foam development of the products. This gives the consumer the impression that these detergents would not clean sufficiently.

Usually, it is attempted to counteract the further drying out of dry skin by adding lipid-replenishing or moisturizing agents, such as glycerine or water-binding hydrating substances, to the compositions. However, the keratolytic reaction of the dry skin caused by the surfactants is not prevented.

Particularly in the case of dry skin, therefore, particularly skin-friendly compositions are desired which significantly reduce the keratolysis of the skin. The compositions desired by the consumer should be perceived by persons with dry skin as pleasantly cleansing and non-irritating, both during use and especially in the period after the application become. This applies both to agents which remain only briefly on the skin and are rinsed out again after a short exposure time, such as shower baths or hand washing pastes, hand wash creams or washing lotions, as well as for agents which are not completely rinsed off the skin after the cleansing application , such as make-up remover.

In addition, modern compositions are expected to have a significantly improved condition of the skin relative to the moisture balance of the dry skin. Finally, it is desirable on the part of the consumer if the compositions lead to a markedly delayed re-soiling of the skin and hair. The wetting of skin hair with impurities is significantly delayed. This lotus effect in turn contributes significantly to the fact that especially the dry and sensitive skin or dry, splattered and heavily stressed hair need not be cleaned so often. As a result, the sensitive and dry skin and heavily stressed hair is significantly less damaged by the further action of surfactant-containing compositions.

For example, plant extracts are already widely used in cosmetic preparations. There they show both a nourishing effect and a hair-altering effect such as the coloring extracts of henna. But especially with plant extracts there is always a risk of incompatibilities on the part of the consumer. Especially sought after are plant extracts, which humans have been using for a long time in a variety of ways, possibly also for healing purposes or for nutrition or as a stimulant.

In the western high-tech countries, therefore, the frequently undescribed experience of the ancient peoples is increasingly being used. For example, ancient Chinese traditional medicine is becoming increasingly popular, as it teaches that plant extracts in particular can have many beneficial effects on the health of the human body. It complements the homeopathy of Western "herbal medicine". A plant that fulfills all this is, for example, wine. Wine is a cultivated plant in all cultures and peoples of the world. Wine is used both for medicinal purposes and as a stimulant. Thus, the juice of the grapes is eaten as both uncooked and fermented as a drink. The flavonoids and phenols in red wine are drunk as "wine" to prevent vascular diseases such as arteriosclerosis.The leaves of the vine are used in many cultures also as an accompaniment to food.

Also in the cosmetics "wine" is already used.So there are wine extracts under the INCII - designation "vitis vinifera". At the same time, wine is an extremely complex mixture. To this day, not all ingredients of wine are clarified. After all, "wine" is not the same as "wine". Also white wine, red wine or rose is still too inaccurate. Strictly speaking, the respective grape variety should always be mentioned. As the research results of the University of Mainz show, wine consists of up to 800 different chemical substances. However, only about 400 different substances are known in their structure. Furthermore, the composition of the wine varies depending on grape variety, location, soil on which the vine grows, season, hours of sunshine, etc. A good sommelier, for example, is able to distinguish between two successive vintages in terms of taste, given the same situation, the same grape variety and the same aging of the wine. Therefore, it is not surprising if a wine extract is not the same as wine extract. Rather, it is also decisive here, from which grape variety, from which location, on which soil the relevant extracted plants have grown. There are now more than 16,000 grape varieties known. Nevertheless, according to the INCII declaration, only wine extracts are labeled "vitis vinifera".

Moderate and regular consumption of wine stimulates now scientifically proven the digestion. Wine prevents arteriosclerosis, keeps the vessels elastic and lowers blood lipid levels. The age-related degradation of brain functions is slowed down and thus the mental fitness is increased in old age. So it is not surprising that wine in different variants has found its way into cosmetic compositions. A special and exclusive way of preparing wine is champagne. Champagne is made from Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes, and when vines are grown, special care is taken to ensure that the nutrients in the soil best meet the growth of the grapes This particular way of growing the champagne grapes is continued in the pressing process, in particular the gentle treatment of the grapes prevents the color of the peel and the bittering in the must.

As special as the champagne among the wine drinks due to the special care and the special process in the production of sparkling wine, it is not surprising that champagne itself has also found its way into cosmetic preparations. Thus, EP 0 279 392 A2 describes skin creams in emulsion form which have been prepared with champagne as solvent. However, the use of champagne as a solvent instead of water is very expensive. In addition, in the conventional hot process for the preparation of skin creams at temperatures of 75 ⁰ C and higher, essential ingredients of a thermal decomposition.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that an extract of the champagne not only has the excellent known effects of champagne as such, but also has significant advantages in some important for the user of cosmetic products points. If champagne itself is used in cosmetic compositions, substances may also be contained by the champagne in these cosmetic compositions, which show sensitizing or carcinogenic or toxic properties. However, when champagne is extracted at room temperature with a circulating glycerol-water mixture, a champagne extract is obtained which does not contain any ingredients having adverse effects. On the other hand, the ingredients of the champagne, which are relevant for the stimulating, anti-inflammatory, allergy-calming, astringent, antioxidant and vascular-strengthening effects, are still included. Furthermore, such a Champagne extract in a nearly consistent quality available. Finally, in the preparation of cosmetic compositions, the champagne extract can be added to a process step in which the temperature-sensitive ingredients are no longer subject to decomposition.

In addition to the excellent process properties of the champagne extract has further surprisingly been found that the champagne extract according to the invention in cosmetic compositions together with polymers, in particular with cationic and amphoteric polymers, leads to a significantly improved moisture retention of the treated skin and hair. Associated with this, the skin feel and feel of dry skin and dry hair, as well as wet skin and wet hair, are described as being much more pleasant, gentler, softer, smoother and supple by subjects.

In addition, the compositions according to the invention are distinguished by a markedly improved condition of the skin and of the hair in relation to the moisture balance of the dry skin and the dry hair. Finally, it has surprisingly been found that the agents according to the invention lead to a significantly delayed re-soiling of the skin and hair. The wetting of skin and hair with impurities and water is significantly delayed. This lotus effect in turn contributes significantly to the fact that especially dry and sensitive skin as well as dry and brittle hair do not have to be treated as frequently compared to conventional cosmetic agents according to the prior art without the composition according to the invention. As a result, the sensitive and dry skin and dry and damaged hair are significantly less damaged.

According to the invention, keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.

By "skin" is meant the external surface of the human including the skin and mucous membrane in the genital area as well as the scalp. A first subject of the present invention are therefore cosmetic compositions containing a champagne extract.

A particular embodiment of the present invention are cosmetic compositions comprising: a) an aqueous surfactant base, b) a champagne extract and c) a polymer.

Although a champagne extract, like a wine extract, is usually obtained from the leaves, vines or grapes, and also from the aspect that the champagne extract and wine extract have the same INCII name "vinis vinifera", both extracts are distinctly different This is based on the special way in which champagne is cultivated and cared for, as well as on the special way of processing the champagne grapes, so that when processing the champagne grapes great emphasis is placed on ensuring that the color and bitter substances of the grapes do not flow into the grapes Thus, unlike the wine extract, the champagne extract does not or only to a very minor extent contain these ingredients as an impurity, hence the characteristics of a wine extract and of the champagne extract of the present invention differ.

Suitable extractants for producing the champagne extract according to the invention may include water, alcohols and ethoxylates of lower alcohols such as polyglycols and polypropylene glycols with a degree of ethoxylation of 1 mole of ethylene oxide up to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 1 mole to 50 moles, more preferably from 1 mole to 20 Mol ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof are used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, tertiary butanol, pentanols, hexanols, heptanols and octanols, and their ethoxilates with degrees of ethoxylation as described above, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and glycerol and their ethoxylates with ethoxylation levels as previously shown, both as sole extractant and in Mixture with water, preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable. For cosmetic purposes, extracts based on water / glycerol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 are also very well suited. Extracts having excellent activity are obtained when pure propylene glycol is used as the extractant.

Finally, a champagne extract which is most preferred according to the invention is obtained by subjecting the champagne produced by the customary processes to a liquid-liquid extraction. For this purpose, the champagne is extracted at room temperature with a circulating mixture of glycerol and water. Obtained is about 0.1 to 10% champagne extract. The ratio of glycerol to water in the extraction is about 10: 1 to 1: 1. A ratio of 10: 1 to 2: 1 is preferred. An example of a very particularly preferred champagne extract is the commercial product under the name Champagne ^Extract® Company Botanica.

The champagne extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 0.1 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the recognition that instead of the champagne extract the respectively isolated ingredients of the champagne can be used. The present invention also encompasses the teaching that the extracts according to the invention can additionally be enriched with the abovementioned individual compounds, which may be contained in the respective extract, both as a respective individual compound and as a mixture of different compounds. The use of the champagne extract is preferred according to the invention.

The champagne extract according to the invention is in the cosmetic preparations in amounts of 0.001 to 15 wt.%, Preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 15 wt.%, Particularly preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.% And most preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

The other constituents of the compositions according to the invention are described below. In this case, the respective synergistic constituents of the active ingredient complex according to the invention are described in the description of the respective raw material.

An ingredient which is used in almost all cosmetic compositions are surface-active substances. The surfactants essentially comprise two groups, the surfactants and the emulsifiers.

The term surfactants (E) is understood to mean surface-active substances which can form adsorption layers on upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution. The following surfactants are exclusively known compounds. Regarding the structure and production of these substances, reference should be made to relevant reviews.

Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo-fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol amine ether sulfates, hydroxymethylene ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates, Acylaspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulphates, protein fatty acid condensates (in particular wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution. Examples of particularly suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C Atoms (soaps),

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _X -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,

- Acylisethionate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, are long known, skin-friendly surfactants, which are accessible by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane-sulfonic acid (isethionic acid). If you for this esterification fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, ie z. As lauric, myristic, palmititic or stearic or technical fatty acid fractions, eg. As obtainable from coconut fatty acid ₂ Ci - Ci ₈ - using fatty acid fraction is obtained according to the invention preferably suitable Ci ₂ - Ciβ acyl isethionates. It is known to bring the sodium salts of Ci ₂ - Ciβ-acyl isethionates similar to fatty acid-based soaps by kneading, pilching, extrusion, extrusion, cutting and piece pressing in a suitable form for transport and use. In this way, needles, granules, noodles or bars can be produced. One application of the acyl isethionates are toilet soap pieces and syndets,

- Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. The Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl (C ₈ - C ₂₄ ) ester dinatrium salts are prepared by known methods z. B. prepared by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8 - 24 carbon atoms to maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and sulfites this with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinsäureester. Particularly suitable

Sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12- 18 C atoms, as z. B. from coconut oil or Kokosfettsäuremethylester are accessible by hydrogenation. linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Hydroxysulfonates essentially corresponding to at least one of the following two formulas or mixtures thereof _and salts thereof, CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _p - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _z -CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H, and / or

CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _p -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _z - CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where in both formulas y and z = 0 or integers from 1 to 18, p = 0, 1 or 2 and the sum (y + z + p) a number from 12 to 18, x = 0 or a number from 1 to 30 and n one integer from 2 to 4 and M = H or alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc and / or an ammonium ion, which may optionally be substituted, in particular mono-, di-, tri or tetraammonium ions having C ^{1 to} C ⁴ alkyl, alkenyl or aryl radicals, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers of the formula R ¹ - (CHOSO ₃ M) -CHR ³ - (OCHR ⁴ -CH ₂ ) n-OR ² with R ¹ , a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{2 is} a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{3 is} hydrogen or a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{4 is} hydrogen or a methyl radical and M is hydrogen, A ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, in which the alkyl and alkanol radicals each have 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a metal atom selected from lithium, sodium, Potassium, calcium or magnesium and n is a number in the range of 0 to 12 and furthermore the total number of C atoms contained in R ¹ and R ^{3 is} 2 to 44,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula

R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -O- (PO-OX) -OR ² , in which R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30

Carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n for

Numbers from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or

NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical, is a sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula RCO (Al k O) _n SO ₃ M in the RCO-- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M for a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ^{6 are} independently hydrogen or a C1 to C4 - hydrocarbon radical,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula

R ⁸ OC- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x -OCH ₂ - [CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H] -CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z -SO ₃ X in which R ^{8 is} CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, Amide ether carboxylic acids, R ¹ -CO-NR ² -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ θ) _n CH ₂ COOM, with R ¹ as the straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20, and R ² is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl, and M is Is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ^®.

Acylglutamates of the formula XOOC-CH 2 CH 2 CH (C (NH) OR) -COOX in which RCO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal and or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium,

Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product. These are prepared by condensation of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably of fatty acids having 12-18 C atoms with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins. These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferably present as alkali, ammonium, mono-, di- or trialkanolammonium salt. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® has long been in the trade,

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettsäurekondensate.

In the compositions according to the invention it is particularly advantageous if mild anionic surfactants are used as anionic surfactants. In particular, by the mild anionic surfactants described below, the effect of the composition according to the invention is substantially increased.

The term "mild surfactants" is understood by the person skilled in the art as surfactants, which are found in the numerous test methods such as the HET-CAM test, the neutral redness test, the BUS model (bovine and skin model), the human skin model, the Zeize test, the Draize test, the Armflexwashtest or the Duhringkammertest etc. have proven to be mild surfactants.All in common with all test models is that in principle is measured against a standard to which the measurement results are obtained.In each of these test models there is a threshold below which is spoken of "mild surfactants". This threshold is for example in the HET-CAM test 1, 5. This means that all surfactants which have a relative irritation score of 1, 5 and smaller, for example, in the HET-CAM test, are known as "mild." The person skilled in the art knows that a surfactant gives a different score in each test model. For example, a cocamidopropyl betaine may even be classified as "irritating" in the HET-CAM test, while in the other test models it is more likely to be considered mild surfactants. A common and accepted classification defines surfactants as mild if they have a relative irritation score of less than 1.5 in the HET-CAM test. According to the invention, however, such surfactants are preferably used and understood as "mild surfactants" which are classified as "mild" in all current test models. Particularly preferred surfactants used are mild surfactants which have a relative irritation score of less than 1.2 in the HET-CAM test. Very mildly preferred surfactants used are surfactants which have a relative irritation score of less than 0.8 in the HET-CAM test. In all cases, the corresponding HET-CAM tests are carried out with a surfactant concentration of 3.0% active substance of the particular surfactant. According to these test methods, the following anionic surfactants have proven to be mild to particularly mild and are particularly preferred according to the invention:

Acyl lactylates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates,

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _X -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 and their salts,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, are long known, skin-friendly surfactants, which are accessible by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane-sulfonic acid (isethionic acid). If you for this esterification fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, ie z. As lauric, myristic, palmititic or stearic or technical fatty acid fractions, eg. For example, if the C ₂ - cis fatty acid fraction obtainable from coconut fatty acid is used, the C ₂ - cis-acyl isethionates which are preferably suitable according to the invention are obtained. It is known to bring the sodium salts of Ci ₂ - cis-acyl isethionates similar to fatty acid-based soaps by kneading, pilering, extrusion, extrusion, cutting and piece pressing in a suitable form for transport and use. In this way, needles, granules, noodles or bars can be produced. One application of the acyl isethionates are toilet soap pieces and syndets,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. The Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl (C ₈ - C ₂₄ ) ester dinatrium salts are prepared by known methods z. B. prepared by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8 - 24 carbon atoms to maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and sulfites this with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinsäureester. Particularly suitable

Sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12- 18 C atoms, as z. B. from coconut oil or Kokosfettsäuremethylester are accessible by hydrogenation. Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula

R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂₎ _n -O- (PO-OX) -OR ^2, where R ¹ is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from 8 to 30

Numbers from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or

NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula

R ⁸ OC- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x -OCH ₂ - [CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H] -CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z -SO ₃ X in which R ^{8 is} CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

Amide ether carboxylic acids, R ¹ -CO-NR ² -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n CH ₂ COOM, with R ¹ as the straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20, and R ² is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl, and M is Is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ^®.

Acylglutamates and acylaspartates.

If the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Also, in the case of mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether units, it is preferred that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether without restricted homologue distribution may for example be obtained even if the one hand, the number of polyglycol ether amounts to 4 to 12 and are selected as a counter ion Zn or Mg ions. Examples of these are the commercial product Texapon ASV ^®.

Of course, all mild and anionic surfactants mentioned heretofore and in the following can also be used in the form of their salts. Particularly suitable mild anionic surfactants are in each case in the form of the lithium, magnesium, zinc, sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group. The preferred ammonium ions are in addition to the ammonium ion as such monomethylammonium, dimethylammonium, Trimethylammonium, monoethylammonium, diethylammonium, triethylammonium, monopropylammonium, dipropylammonium, tripropylammonium,

Monoisopropylammonium, diisopropylammonium, triisopropylammonium,

Monobutylammonium, dibutylammonium, tributylammonium,

Monoisobutylammonium, diisobutylammonium, triisobutylammonium, mono-t-butylammonium, di-t-butylammonium, tri-t-butylammonium ions and mixed ammonium ions such as, for example, methylethylammonium, dimethylethylammonium ammonium, methyl-diethylammonium, methyl-propyl-ammonium, methyl-ethyl-propyl-ammonium, ethyl-diisopropylammonium, ethyl-dibutyl-ammonium, ethyl diisobutylammonium ions, etc. Of course, the teaching of the invention also does not include the other explicitly mentioned ammonium ions of these alkanolammonium salts.

Other mild anionic surfactants which are most preferably used in the composition according to the invention are alkyl and / or

Alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates derived from alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of general formula (I),

RO- (G) _P (I) with the meaning

RC _6-22 alkyl or C _6-22 alkenyl,

G glycoside unit derived from a sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, p number from 1 to 10.

The mild anionic surfactant is preferably selected from the anionic alkyl polyglycosides, the ether carboxylic acids, the acyl isethionates, the protein fatty acid condensates, the taurates, the sulfosuccinates, the fatty acid amide ether sulfates, the NRE fatty alcohol ether sulfates, the acyl glutamates and the acylasparaginates and mixtures thereof ,

Particular preference is given according to the invention to the anionic alkyl polyglucosides, such as alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates, ether carboxylic acids, acyl isethionates and also taurates and mixtures thereof. Very particular preference is given to the use of anionic alkyl polyglucosides and ether carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof.

Most preferred is the use of carboxylated alkyl polyglucosides and ether carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof.

If mixtures of at least two different mild anionic surfactants are used as the mild anionic surfactant, the mixing ratio of these surfactants is at least 10: 1 to 1:10. Preferred is a mixing ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably from 2.5: 1 to 1: 2.5, and most preferably from about 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1.5.

It has been found according to the invention that the use of mild anionic surfactants and in particular of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates in the agents according to the invention leads to a reduction in skin irritation. This leads, in particular when used with the active ingredient according to the invention complex from a surfactant and at least one Süßgrasextrakt to significantly significantly delayed peeling of the skin. In addition, it has been found according to the invention that when mild anionic surfactants are used, in particular the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates, in cleaning and care agents when applying these agents, the foaming is considerably improved , The foam is characterized in particular by a fine-pored, dense, creamy appearance. The foam is described as pleasantly soft and supple and easy to spread. At the same time, the foam is firm and well palpable. He shows a certain stamina and does not run spontaneously but only after a few minutes. This favors the already described easy spreadability of the foam. These effects occur in the compositions according to the invention in particular when further formulated in combination with cationic and / or amphoteric polymers. In the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides at least one hydroxyl group is preferably in at least one of the radicals G by -O-Ci.- | _2- alkenyl-COOM, -OSO ₃ M, -OP (O) (OM) ₂ or -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SO ₃ M with M = H, alkali metal, NH ₄ or one of the aforementioned counterions such as Zn, Mg, alkanolammonium replaced.

In this case, an alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate is particularly preferably used in which -O-Ci.i ₂ -alkylene COOM -O (CH ₂ -) _n COOM with M = H, Na or K and n = 1 to 3 means. Particularly preferably, the radical is 0-CH ₂ -COONa.

Particular preference is given to using an alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate in which the alkyl radical is a lauryl radical. Especially preferred is a Laurylglucosidcarboxylat as it is available as Plantapon ^® LCG Cognis Germany.

In the alkyl glycosides of the general formula (I), the glycoside units G are preferably derived from aldoses or ketoses.

Preferably, because of the better reactivity, the reducing saccharides, the aldoses, are used. Among the aldoses, glucose is particularly suitable for their easy accessibility and technical availability. The alkylglycosides which are particularly preferably used as starting materials are therefore the alkylglucosides.

The index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization, ie the distribution of monoglycerides and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in a given compound must always be an integer, and above all the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyl glycoside is an analytic calculated arithmetic size, which is usually a fractional number. Preferably, alkyl glycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are used. Particular preference is given to those alkyl glycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.5 and, in particular, lies between 1.1 and 1.4. The alkyl radical R is derived from primary alcohols having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and technical fractions which, in addition to the saturated alcohols mentioned, may also contain portions of unsaturated alcohols and which are based on natural fats and oils, for example palm oil, palm kernel oil, Coconut oil or beef tallow are obtained. The use of technical coconut oil is particularly preferred here.

In addition to the fatty alcohols mentioned, the alkyl glycosides can also be derived from synthetic primary alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the so-called oxo alcohols, which have a proportion of 5 to 40% by weight of branched isomers.

Particularly preferred alkyl radicals are those having 8/10, 12/14, 8 to 16, 12 to 16 or 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Mixtures of the alkyl radicals result in a production starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils.

Processes for the preparation of these alkyl glycosides have been known to the skilled person for a long time.

The alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, phosphates, sulfates or isethionates used according to the invention can be prepared by known processes. The carboxylates are prepared, for example, by reacting the alkyloligoglycosides with salts of chlorocarboxylic acids in the presence of bases. For example, it can be reacted with 2-chloroacetic acid sodium salt in the presence of NaOH. In the reaction, both the hydroxyl groups in the ring and the -CH ₂ -OH group can be reacted. The degree of conversion depends inter alia on the stoichiometry of the feedstock. Preferably, the alkyl oligoglycosides are reacted at least on the -CH ₂ -OH group, optionally with an agent capable of reacting one or more of the hydroxyl groups on the ring. Other hydroxyl groups may also be etherified, for example.

The preparation of the isethionates is also carried out by known methods of the prior art. It is also known that the products can be used for hair and body care. In particular, aqueous detergent mixtures are described which contain alkyloligoglycoside isethionates and, for example, further anionic surfactants.

The preparation of the sulfates is also carried out according to the prior art. For example, the corresponding alkyl glycoside can be reacted with gaseous sulfur trioxide or with sulfuric acid followed by neutralization. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations containing the alkyloligoglycoside sulfates are also known.

Finally, detergent mixtures of alkyl oligoglycoside sulfates and alkyl ether phosphates are described which can be used, for example, in hair rinses, hair dyes or hair waving agents.

The mild anionic surfactants used according to the invention and particularly preferably the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates are used in an amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15 wt .-% and most preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 10.0 wt.%

The mild anionic surfactants used and particularly preferably the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates can completely or partially replace the customary anionic surfactants in these compositions. Thus, the mild anionic surfactants according to the invention can be used as the sole anionic surfactant in the compositions, or mixtures of these mild anionic surfactants can be used with each other or with other conventional anionic surfactants. These conventional anionic surfactants are explained in more detail later. For example, the mild anionic surfactants and other anionic surfactants may be present in a weight ratio ranging from 5: 0.05 to 1: 2, more preferably 3: 0.5 to 1: 2, in particular 2.5: 0.5 to 1: 1, 5 and most preferably 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1, 5 are present.

The amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants also show a synergistic effect with the champagne extracts according to the invention. This synergistic effect may be due to increased deposition of the extract of champagne on the surface of the skin and hair, which manifests itself in the overall cosmetic appearance of the skin and hair. The particular charge effects of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants seem to play a role here.

Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO * ^" 'or -SO ₃ '^"'group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are meant those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C - contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and alkyl or acyl group of forming inner salts - C ₂₄ are capable. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, amino-propionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C ₂ - C ₈ - sarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 C atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropyleneglycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the fatty acid polyethers or mixed fatty acid polyethers,

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, the Alkylphenolpolyglykolether or the Alkylpolypropylenglykolether, or mixed Alyklphenolpolyether, with a methyl - or C ₂ - C _O - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),

C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® - types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I)

R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _W OR ³ (E4-I)

in which R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² is hydrogen or methyl, R ³ is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,

Amine oxides,

Hydroxymix ethers, as described for example in DE-OS 19738866,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

Addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to formula (E4-II),

R ⁴ O- [G] _P (E4-II)

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of ongonomation (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be an integer, and Here above all the values p = 1 to 6 can assume, is the Value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic size, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl- and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 1 1, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length of C ₈ -C ₀ (DP = 1 to 3), which are obtained as first runnings in the separation of technical Cs-C-is-coconut oil fatty alcohol and having a content of less than 6 wt .-% C _2- alcohol can be contaminated and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical Cg / n-oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated Ci _{_2/14} coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3

Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III),

R ⁵ CO-NR ⁶ - [Z] (E4-III)

R ^{5 is} CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances, usually by reductive Amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride can be obtained. Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV):

R ⁷ CO- (NR ⁸ ) -CH ₂ - [CH (OH) J ₄ -CH ₂ OH (E4-IV)

Glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R ^{8 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ⁷ CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid are preferably used as the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides , Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

The sugar surfactants may preferably be present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight.

Other typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers or mixed formalin, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and polysorbates.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids each having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide proven per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and the sugar surfactants. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

These connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When so-called "oxo-alcohols" are used as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred to start from the production of these substances from native plant or animal raw materials, so as to obtain substance mixtures with different, depending on the particular raw material alkyl chain lengths.

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs which are obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

As additives for further improving the skin feel during and after the application, nonionic surfactants have also proven useful, their additional use for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention is recommended can be. Particular preference is therefore given to compositions according to the invention having an additional content of from 0.1 to 20% by weight of nonionic surfactants having an HLB value of from 2 to 18. Such products can be obtained by addition of ethylene oxide onto z. B. fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms or to glycerol or sorbitan fatty acid partial ester based on Ci ₂ -Ci ₈ fatty acids or produced on fatty acid alkanolamides. The HLB value means the proportion of hydrophilic groups, eg. As to glycol ether or polyol groups based on the total molecule and it is calculated by the relationship

HLB = 1/5 x (100 wt.% L),

where wt .-% L of the proportion by weight of lipophilic groups, ie z. B. to alkyl or acyl groups having 6-30 carbon atoms in the surfactant molecule represents.

The cationic surfactants (E5) form the last group of surfactants. Cationic surfactants are characterized as part of the active ingredient complex according to the invention in that, like the amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, they contribute to a significantly improved cosmetic appearance of the skin. The cationic charge ensures a good bond to the rather negatively charged surfaces, especially of stressed skin. On the long fat residues of these molecular structures, in turn, more hydrophobically structured active ingredients can accumulate. As a result, an overall increased deposition of care substances on the surface of the skin is effected. In particular, the skin feeling is described as pleasantly soft to velvety soft.

Cationic surfactants (E5) are generally derived from ammonium ions and have a structure (NR ¹ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ) ⁺ with a correspondingly negatively charged counterion. Such cationic ammonium compounds are well known to those skilled in the art. Further cationic surfactants are, for example, the esterquats or the imidazolium compounds. Cationic surfactants (E5) of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats, the imidazolines and the amidoamines are particularly preferably used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides. such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds and ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.

According to the invention, cationic compounds containing behenyl radicals, in particular the substances known under the name of behentrimonium chloride or bromide (docosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide), can be used with particular preference. Other preferred QAVs have at least two behenyl residues. Commercially available, these substances are, for example, under the designations Genamin ^® KDMP (Clariant).

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^®, ^® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-Palmitoyloxy- ethyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats ,

As further cationic surfactants, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one quaternary imidazoline compound, ie a compound which has a positively charged imidazoline ring. The formula (E5-V) shown below shows the structure of these compounds. RC

ormel (E5-V)

The radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of formula (E5-V) for R each contain the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to compounds having a chain length of at least 16 carbon atoms and very particularly preferably having at least 20 carbon atoms. A very particularly preferred compound of the formula I has a chain length of 21 carbon atoms. A commercial product of this chain length is known, for example, under the name Quaternium-91. In the formula (E5-V) is shown as the counterion methosulfate. However, according to the invention, the counterions also include the halides, such as chloride, fluoride, bromide, or else phosphates.

The imidazolines of the formula (E5-V) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 7 , 5% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A according to the invention particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 stearamidopropyldimethylamine commercially available dimethylamine. The alkylamidoamines can be present both as such and converted by protonation in accordance acid solution into a quaternary compound in the composition, they but of course also as permanently quaternary compound can be used in the compositions of the invention. Examples of permanently quaternized amidoamines include the raw materials with the trade name Rewoquat ^® UTM 50, Lanoquat ^® DES-50 or Empigen CSC.

The cationic surfactants (E5) are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Of course, it is also preferable in the case of the cationic surfactants to select mild cationic surfactants. The criteria for selecting suitable mild surfactants have been previously described in detail. The corresponding mild cationic surfactants include in particular alkylamidoamines, quaternized amidoamines, esterquats and cationic surfactants having at least one behenyl radical in the molecule.

Cationic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention. Anionic surfactants are used in particular when the compositions according to the invention are to be used as shower baths.

The surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,

Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The Selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles per propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with on-gomerisierungsgrade of 1, 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 2.0, and glucose are preferred as the sugar component,

Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

- sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.

Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol, Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hy- droxystearat (Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product)

Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

Particularly advantageous is also an addition of a per se known emulsifier of the water-in-oil type in an amount of about 1 - 5 wt .-% proved. This is a mixed ester which is a condensation product of a pentaerythritol di-fatty acid ester and a citric acid di-fatty alcohol ester. The following formula describes the mixed ester in more detail:

R ¹ OOC-CH ₂ - (CHOH-COOR ¹ ) -CH ₂ -COO-CH) ₂ - [C (CH ₂ OH) (COOR ² ) 2] where R ¹ and R ^{2 are} saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Fatty alcohol residues with a chain length of 8 to 30 C atoms or residues of dimerization products of these fatty alcohols. The addition of such mixed esters a particularly pleasant feeling on the skin is achieved in the application of the body cleanser.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

Emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the so-called mild emulsifiers. The mildness of emulsifiers can be determined by various methods. For example, the neutral red test, the HET-CAM test, the human skin model or the so-called BUS (bovine udder skin) model are used for this purpose. What is common to all test methods is that it is principally measured against a standard to which the results are referred. Furthermore, it is pointed out that in The chapter "Surfactants" has already described in detail how to select mild raw materials, as well as the selection of mild emulsifiers.

According to these test methods, the following preferred emulsifiers have proven to be mild to particularly mild and are particularly preferred according to the invention:

- Acylsarcoside having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group

Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates as already described for the surfactants,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates as already described for the surfactants,

Amide ether carboxylic acids as described in the chapter on surfactants,

Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product,

Zwitterionic surfactants (E2),

- ampholytic surfactants (E3),

- sugar surfactants of the alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to the formula (E4-II).

Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide type according to the formula (E4-III), Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® - types (Cognis),

Amine oxides,

Hydroxymix ethers, for example of the formula

R ¹ O [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _x (CH ₂ CHR ² O) _y [CH ₂ CH (OH) R ³ ] _z with R ^{1 being} a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl and / or or alkenyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl or iso-propyl radical, R ^{3 is} a linear or branched alkyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms, x is 0 or a number from 1 to 20, Y stands for a number from 1 to 30 and z stands for the number 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.

Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II),

esterquats

Alkylamidoamines and quaternized alkylamidoamines.

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, preference being given to degrees of ongrafting of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,

Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, - Sterols, Sterols is a group of steroids that carry a hydroxyl group at C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated from animal tissue (zoosterols) as well as vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hy- droxystearat (Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product)

In the preferred case according to the invention that the compatibility of the cosmetic compositions should be improved, the particularly mild emulsifiers are preferably used in the compositions. In these cases, the alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates are used in amounts of less than 8% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight and more preferably less than 2.5% by weight. Most preferably, these compositions are free of alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates. "Free from" in this context means that these ingredients are not used in any way, but it is possible that they may be introduced into the composition by other ingredients, such as the use of silicone emulsions, so "free from" preferably means smaller than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight.

It is known that oil-in-water emulsions, hereafter called O / W emulsions, prepared and stabilized with nonionic emulsifiers undergo phase inversion upon heating, ie, at higher temperatures, the outer, aqueous phase becomes the inner phase can be. This process is usually reversible, that is, that re-forms the original emulsion type on cooling. It is also known that the location of the phase inversion temperature (PIT) depends on many factors, for example the type and phase volume of the oil component, of the hydrophilicity and the structure of the emulsifier or the composition of the emulsifier system. Furthermore, it is known that emulsions prepared at or slightly below the phase inversion temperature are characterized by particular stability and fineness, while those prepared above the phase inversion temperature are less finely divided. Emulsions that undergo phase inversion at a certain temperature are called PIT emulsions. These PIT emulsions may be preferred according to the invention, because they contain significantly less emulsifier than conventional non-PIT emulsions due to the just sufficient amount of emulsifier. Therefore, they are not only particularly inexpensive, but also very mild and gentle on the skin and hair. If ionic surfactants are also used as emulsifiers in the PIT emulsions, these are added to the PIT emulsion more preferably only after the preparation of the PIT emulsion during the cooling process.

Very particular cationic and amphoteric and / or zwitterionic polymers are used in the combination of active substances according to the invention as further compulsory ingredients. Polymers are used in cosmetic compositions for a variety of reasons. In this case, nonionic polymers are used.

In the following some examples of particularly preferred polymers are described. The distinction of the polymers which can be used according to the invention can be made on the basis of the charges of the polymers and / or because of their particularly pronounced properties in terms of their application. The term "particularly distinctive features" reflects the fact that polymers generally combine several properties in one molecule, but often one of the properties is particularly prominent and is decisive for the selection of this particular polymer.

First, polymers will be described based on their respective charges.

Cationic polymers are polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which is "temporary" or "permanent". can be cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

Further cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers, which usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationically.

The cationic polymers according to the invention can be both firming and / or film-forming and / or antistatic and / or scavenging polymers as well as polymers with conditioning and / or thickening properties. The suitable cationic polymers are preferably fixing and / or conditioning polymers. By polymers are meant both natural and synthetic polymers which may be cationic or amphoteric charged.

These two groups of polymers share a potentially cationic charge. Both cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers can therefore be characterized by their cationic charge density. The polymers of the invention are characterized by a charge density of at least 1 to 7 meq / g. A charge density of at least 2 to 7 meq / g is preferred. Particularly preferred is a charge density of at least equal to 3meq / g to 7 meq / g.

Another characteristic feature of the polymers according to the invention is their molecular weight. The molecular weight of the particular polymer is understood to mean the molecular weight which the manufacturer indicates in the corresponding data sheets by its method. For the selection of a suitable polymer has a Molar mass of at least 50,000 g / u proved to be suitable according to the invention. Polymers with a molecular weight of more than 100,000 g / u have proven to be particularly suitable. Polymers with a molecular weight of more than 1,000,000 g / u are particularly suitable.

The deposition of polymers of surfactant solutions on the surface of keratinic fibers is an adsorption process. This adsorption process is not fully understood until today. The previously described selection of suitable polymers already takes place in the prior art according to the previously described criteria of charge density or molecular weight.

All known physical chemistry adsorption equations contain proportionality constants which are related to the degree of coverage of the surface. Without knowing the exact scientific background, however, the degree of coverage of the surface could be related to an adsorption probability of the polymers according to the invention. Defining the adsorption probability as the product of the cationic charge density and the molecular weight, this product can be used for the targeted selection of suitable inventive polymers.

Suitable polymers have a value of greater than 100,000 for the product of cationic charge density and molecular weight. Particularly suitable are polymers which have a value of at least 200,000 for this product. Especially suitable are those polymers in which this product has a value greater than 250,000. Most suitable are those polymers in which this product has a value of at least 1,000,000.

Preference is given to those polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or alcohol in order to completely dissolve in the agent according to the invention.

The cationic polymers may be homo- or copolymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent one or more of the monomers are included. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkyl ammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers having cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, for example alkylvinylimidazolium , Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

Examples of suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride A / inylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-1 1), and quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers, for example Silicone polymers with quaternary end groups (Quaternium-80).

Among the cationic polymers that can be included in the inventive composition, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and of which the Gafquat ^® 734 is particularly preferred suitable. Other cationic polymers are for example marketed by BASF, Germany under the trade name Luviquat.RTM ^® HM 550 Copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ^® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and the product sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ^® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylic amidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid copolymer.

Homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I),

- {CH ₂ - [CR ¹ COO- (CH ₂₎ _m N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ^4] _n} X ^"(G1-I)

in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^"is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, and copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers preferably, for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

R ¹ is a methyl group

R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically acceptable counter ions X ^"include halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preferred are halide ions, particularly chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are, for example, under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (3V Sigma) in trade available. The crosslinking can, if desired, be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth- 6)), and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (G1-I) as the non-ionic monomer, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-Ci _-4 alkyl ester and methacrylic acid-Ci- ₄ -alkyl. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

Suitable cationic silicone compounds preferably have either at least one amino group or at least one ammonium group. Suitable silicone polymers with amino groups are known under the INCI name Amodimethicone. These are polydimethylsiloxanes with aminoalkyl groups. The aminoalkyl groups may be side or terminal. The N-containing silicone as cationic polymer according to the invention can preferably be selected from the group comprising siloxane polymers having at least one amino group, Siloxane polymers having at least one terminal amino group, amodimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and / or aminoethylaminopropylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer. Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known by the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes having two terminal aminoalkyl groups.

Preferred according to the invention is the use of an aminosiloxane according to the following general formula (G 1-11),

wherein R = OH or CH ₃ , X = alkyl group having 1 to 4 C atoms, preferably propyl or isopropyl and A, B and C = copolymer units which can form tactical and / or atactic polymer blocks are.

Amodimethicone, amodimethicone-containing emulsions or fluids are most preferred according to the invention. Emulsions which can preferably be used according to the invention are Dow Corning® 949, which is a cationic emulsion comprising amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 939, which is an emulsion containing amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 929, which is a cationic emulsion containing amodimethicone, talc trimonium chloride and nonoxynol-10; Dow Corning® 7224 or 1401 based on trimethylsilylamodimethicone, octoxynol-40, isolaureth-6 and glycol; Dow Corning® 2-8194 microemulsion (26%) based on an amine-functionalized silicone polymer; Dow Corning® 2-8177 microemulsion (12%) based on an amine-functionalized Silicone polymer; Dow Corning® 2-8566 Amino Fluid based on an amine-functionalized polydimethylsiloxane; available from Dow Corning.

The molecular weight of the aminosilicones is preferably between 500 and 100,000. The amine content (meq / g) is preferably in the range from 0.05 to 2.3, more preferably from 01 to 0.5.

The silicone as a cationic polymer according to the invention is used in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight .% used.

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationic derivatives of

Cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives.

Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (G1-III) GOB-N + R _a R _b R _c X ^"

G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;

B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene,

Polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;

R ₃ , R _b and R _c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of C atoms in

R ₃ , Rb and R _{c is} preferably at most 20;

X ^" is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.

A cationic cellulose is sold under the name Polymer JR 400 from Amerchol ^® and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees. Another cationic cellulose bears the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is sold under the trade name Polymer LM-200 by Amerchol. Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L and 200. The commercial products mentioned are preferred cationic celluloses.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Furthermore, particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also from the Fa. Hercules under the name N-Hance ^® in the trade. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ^®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative.

Another particularly suitable cationic natural polymer is hydrocolloids of the chitosan type. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight, which contain the - idealized - monomer unit (I):

^ CH ₂ OH HO NH ₂

I II

CH-O CH-CH

- [- HC1 CH-O-CH CH-O-] "-

CH-CH CH-O

I i

HO NH ₂ CH ₂ OH

Unlike most hydrocolloids that are negatively charged at biological pH levels, chitosans are cationic biopolymers under these conditions.

The positively charged chitosans can interact with oppositely charged surfaces and are therefore used in cosmetic hair and body care products as a film former. In addition to the chitosans are also quaternized, alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, optionally also in microcrystalline form into consideration. The insert can also be in the form of aqueous gels having a solids content in the range of 1 to 5 wt .-%.

For the production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available as inexpensive raw materials in large quantities. The chitin is usually first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, wherein the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, particularly low-ash cationic biopolymers are used which are obtained by reacting

(a) treating fresh crustacean shells with dilute aqueous mineral acid,

(b) treating the resulting demineralized first intermediate with aqueous alkali hydroxide solution,

(c) again treating the resulting slightly deproteinized second intermediate with dilute aqueous mineral acid,

(d) finally treating the resulting decalcified third intermediate with concentrated aqueous caustic while deacetylating to a level of from 0.05 to 0.5, more preferably from 0.15 to 0.25 mole of acetamide per mole of monomer unit, and

(e) optionally subjected to a pressure / temperature post-treatment to adjust the viscosity.

The chitosans to be used according to the invention are completely or partially deacetylated chitins. The molecular weight of the chitosan can be distributed over a broad spectrum, for example from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol. For example, a low molecular weight chitosan having a molecular weight of from 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol is suitable. Preferably, however, the molecular weight is above 100,000 g / mol, more preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol. The degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, more preferably 60 to 99%.

The chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form. The degree of neutralization of the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least 50%, more preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups. As neutralizing agents, it is possible in principle to use all cosmetically acceptable inorganic or organic acids, such as, for example, formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid, among others, of which the pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid is particularly preferred. A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. It has a molecular weight of 300,000 to 700,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 80%. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. The contained chitosan has a molecular weight of about 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 85%. Suitable chitosan derivatives are quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl or hydroxybutylchitosan. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer JR ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosme- dia ^® guar and Jaguar ^® products, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amines of the acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® products 550 (Dimethyldiallylammoni- trimethylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially, - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,

quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as the polymers known as polyquaternium 2, polyquaternium 17, polyquaternium 18 and polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 101 1, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 are available.

Other cationic polymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names.

According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37. Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1 101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products called: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchio lin protein,

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin , Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen , Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quate Rnium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

The cationic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as sole or co-monomer have proven to be particularly effective Sulfonic acid group may be wholly or partially present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid is, which is 1 1-80 commercially available, for example under the name Rheothik ^®.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (Ci ₃ -C ₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching of the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene cross-linked methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM.

The anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Another very particularly preferred group of polymers are polyurethanes. The polyurethanes consist of at least two different monomer types, a compound (V1) having at least 2 active hydrogen atoms per molecule and a di- or polyisocyanate (V2).

The compounds (V1) may be, for example, diols, triols, diamines, triamines, polyetherols and polyesterols. The compounds having more than 2 active hydrogen atoms are usually used only in small amounts in combination with a large excess of compounds with 2 active hydrogen atoms.

Examples of compounds (V1) are ethylene glycol, 1, 2 and 1, 3-propylene glycol, butylene glycols, di-, tri-, tetra- and poly-ethylene and -Propylenglykole, copolymers of lower alkylene oxides such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, Ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1, 4-diaminobutane, hexamethylenediamine and, diamines based on long-chain alkanes or polyalkylene oxides. Polyurethanes in which the compounds (V1) are diols, triols and polyetherols may be preferred according to the invention. In particular, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having molecular weights between 200 and 3000, in particular between 1600 and 2500, have proven to be particularly suitable in individual cases.

Polyesterols are usually obtained by modifying the compound (V1) with dicarboxylic acids such as phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and adipic acid.

As compounds (V2) predominantly hexamethylene diisocyanate, 2,4- and 2,6-toluene diisocyanate, 4,4'-methylenedi (phenyl isocyanate) and in particular

Isophorone diisocyanate used.

Furthermore, the polyurethanes used in the invention may contain other building blocks such as diamines as chain extenders and hydroxycarboxylic acids. Dialkylolcarboxylic acids such as dimethylolpropionic acid are particularly suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids. With regard to the further building blocks, there is no fundamental restriction as to whether they are nonionic, anionic or cationic building blocks.

For further information on the construction and production of polyurethanes, reference is expressly made to the articles in the relevant reviews such as Römpps Chemie-Lexikon and Ullmanns Enzyklopädie der technischen Chemie.

Polyurethanes which have proved to be particularly suitable according to the invention in many cases have been able to be characterized as follows:

- Only aliphatic groups in the molecule

- no free isocyanate groups in the molecule

- Polyether and polyester polyurethanes

- anionic groups in the molecule.

It has also proved advantageous in some cases when the polyurethane is not dissolved in the system but is stably dispersed. Furthermore, it has proved to be advantageous for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention, when the polyurethanes were not mixed directly with the other components, but introduced in the form of aqueous dispersions. Such dispersions usually have a solids content of about 20-50%, in particular about 35-45% and are also commercially available.

An inventively particularly preferred polyurethane is available under the trade name Luviset.RTM ^® PUR (BASF).

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers. By the term amphoteric polymers both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO _ß H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts, but also zwitterionic polymers containing quaternary ammonium groups in the molecule and -COO contain ^" - or -SO _ß ^' groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

Amphoteric polymers, like the cationic polymers, are most preferred polymers.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^®, ethyl methacrylate, a copolymer of tert-butylamino, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.

Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

(a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I),

R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^H (G3-I) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^{H is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and

(b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II),

R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (G3-II)

in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{H is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion ; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

Suitable starting monomers are, for. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and diethylaminoethylacrylamide when Z represents an NH group or dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and

Diethylaminoethyl acrylate when Z is an oxygen atom.

The monomers containing a tertiary amino group are then quaternized in a known manner, methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate being particularly suitable as alkylating reagents. The quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous solution or in the solvent.

Advantageously, those monomers of the formula (G3-I) are used which are derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Further preferred are those Monomers containing as counter ions halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions. Also preferred are those monomers of formula (G3-I) wherein R3, R4 and R5 are methyl groups.

The acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a most preferred monomer of the formula (G3-I).

Suitable monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (G3-II) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. Preference is given to using acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid.

The zwitterionic polymers which can be used according to the invention are prepared from monomers of the formulas (G3-I) and (G3-II) by polymerization processes known per se. Further details of the polymerization process can be found in the relevant specialist literature.

Be particularly effective, such polymers have been found in which the monomers of the formula (G3-I) were present in excess over the monomers of formula (G3-II). It is therefore preferred in accordance with the invention to use those polymers which consist of monomers of the formula (G3-I) and the monomers of the formula (G3-II) in a molar ratio of 60:40 to 95: 5, in particular 75:25 to 95 : 5, persist.

The amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Further amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are the compounds mentioned in British Patent Application 2,104,091, European Patent Application 47,714, European Offenlegungsschrift 217,274, European Offenlegungsschrift 283,817 and German Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369. Further suitable zwitterionic polymers are Methacroylethylbetain / methacrylate copolymers, which are commercially available under the name Amersette ^® (AMERCHOL). In another embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4).

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules).

Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch; shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ^° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydi- alkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.

Glycosidically substituted silicones.

The nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

According to the invention, the term polymer also means special preparations of polymers, such as spherical polymer powders. There are different procedures It is known to prepare such microspheres from various monomers, for example by special polymerization processes or by dissolving the polymer in a solvent and spraying it into a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles. Suitable polymers are, for example, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides. Particularly suitable are those spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 micron. Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for example, under the trade name Polytrap ^® Q5-6603 (Dow Corning) in the trade. Other polymer powders, for example based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) having a particle size of 2 - (10 microns (90%) and a specific surface area of about 10 m ² / g under the trade name Orgasol ^® 2002 DU Nat Cos Atochem SA, Paris). Further spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for example, the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL, the styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP) from NIKKOL, the polyethylene and polypropylene Powder (ACCUREL EP 400) from AKZO, or else silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or even spherical cellulose powders.

The polymer powders described above are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Polymers, regardless of their chemical structure and charge, can also be characterized by their function in cosmetic compositions. The description of the polymers according to their function in the compositions according to the invention does not necessarily correspond to an evaluation or significance of these polymers. Rather, all polymers are in principle to be considered equivalent for use in the compositions of the invention, although some of these polymers may be preferred. Furthermore, due to the polyfunctionality of polymers, some polymers can be found in several descriptions with different effects. Polymers which have several desired effects Accordingly, they are particularly preferred for use in the compositions of the invention.

The choice of the suitable polymer also depends on the use of the composition according to the invention.

Since polymers are often multifunctional, their functions can not always be clearly and clearly distinguished from each other. This applies in particular to film-forming and setting polymers. Nevertheless, some film-forming polymers will be described by way of example. However, it is explicitly stated at this point that both film-forming and fixing polymers are essential in the context of the present invention. Since both properties are not completely independent of each other, the term "setting polymers" always "film-forming polymers" understood and vice versa.

Among the preferred properties of the film-forming polymers is the film formation. Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particular preference is given to those polymers which have sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the composition according to the invention. Because of their pronounced film formation properties, these polymers are very particularly preferred in the compositions of the invention. The use of at least one of these polymers is therefore also very particularly preferred according to the invention. The film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.

According to the invention, film-forming polymers are also understood to mean those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the skin or on the hair. The film-forming polymers can thereby both anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, permanent cationic or temporarily cationically charged.

Suitable synthetic, film-forming, setting polymers are homopolymers or copolymers made up of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

Suitable examples are homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide. Further suitable synthetic film-forming fixing polymers are copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, for example, under the trade designations Akypomine ^® P 191 by the company CHEM-Y, Emmerich or Sepigel ^® 305 by the company Seppic be distributed; Polyvinyl alcohols, which are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ^® from DuPont or Vinol ^® 523/540 by Air Products as well as polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, for example, sold under the trade names Ucon® Union Carbide. Particularly preferred are polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers.

Suitable natural film-forming polymers include cellulose derivatives, eg. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold, for example, under the trade name Nisso Sl ^® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg.

Examples of common film formers are Abies Balsamea (Balsam Canada) Resin, Acetylenediurea / Formaldehyde / Tosylamide Crosspolymer, Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer , Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Behenyl Methacrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butyl Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethicone Copolymer , Acrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethiconol Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylates / HEMA / Styrene Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylates / Styrene Copolymer, Acrylates / Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Propyl Trimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acry Acrylates / VA Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Crosspolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Acrylates / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylates / Diacetones Acrylamide / Hydroxypropyl Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Adipic Acid / CHDM / MA / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylene Glycol / Glycerol Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dilinoleic Acid / Hexylene Glycol Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dimethylaminohydroxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic

Acid / Epoxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Fumaric Acid / Phthalic Acid / Tricyclodecane Dimethanol Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Adipic Acid / PPG-10 Copolymer, Albumen , AIIyI Stearate / VA Copolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Polysaccharides, Aminoethyl Acrylates Phosphate / Acrylates Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer,

Aminoethylpropanediol-AMPD Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Alginates, Ammonium Polyacrylates, Ammonium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, AMPD Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Allyl Methacrylates Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates / C1-8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein, Behenyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer,

Benzoguanamine / Formaldehyde / Melamine Crosspolymer, Benzoic Acid / Phthalic Anhydride / Pentaerythritol / Neopentyl Glycol / Palmitic Acid Copolymer, Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amine Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Bis-PEG-15 Dimethicone / IPDI Copolymer, Bis-PPG-15 Dimethicone / IPDI Copolymer, Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone, Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi OiI Copolymer, Butadiene / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, 1,4-Butanediol / Succinic Acid / Adipic Acid / HDI Copolymer, Butoxy Chitosan, Butyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Styrene Copolymer, Butylated Polyoxymethylene Urea, Butylated PVP, Butyl Benzoic Acid / Phthalic Anhydride / Trimethylolethane Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Butylethylpropanediol Dimer Dilinoleate, Butyl Methacrylate / DMAPA

Acrylates / Vinylacetamide Crosspolymer, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, C5-6 Alkanes / Cycloalkanes / Terpene Copolymer, C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone / Polycyclohexene Oxide Crosspolymer , C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitosan Succinamide, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer, Cellulose Acetates, Cellulose Acetate Butyrates, Cellulose Acetate Propionate, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Cetearyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Chitosan, Chitosan Adipate, Chitosan Ascorbate, Chitosan Formats, Chitosan Glycolate, Chitosan Lactate, Chitosan PCA, Chitosan Salicylate, Chitosan Succinamide, C5-6 Olefin / C8-10 Naphtha Olefin Copolymer, Collodion, Copaifera Officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) Resin, Copal, Com Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Com Starch Modified, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, DEA Styrene / Acrylates / DVB Copolymer, Dibutylhexyl IPDI, Didecyltetradecyl IPDI, Diethylene Glycolamine / Epichlorohydrin / Piperazine Copolymer, Diethylhexyl IPDI,

Diglycol / CHDM / isophthalates / SIP Copolymer, Diglycol / Isophthalates / SIP Copolymer, Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine / IPDI Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Glycol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Sebacic Acid / Piperazine / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dilinoleyl Alcohol / IPDI Copolymer, Dimethicone PEG-8 Polyacrylates, Dimethicone A / inyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol / IPDI Copolymer,

Dimethylamine / Ethylene Diamine / Epichlorohydrin Copolymer, Dioctyldecyl IPDI, Dioctyldodecyl IPDI, Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Copolymer, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer, DMAPA Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Dodecanedioic Acid / Cetearyl Alcohol / Glycol Copolymer, Ethylcellulose, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid / VA Copolymer, Ethylene / Calcium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Ethylene / Magnesium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / Methacrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / Octene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ethylene / Zinc Acrylate Copolymer, Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract, Fibroin / PEG-40 / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Flexible Collodion , Formaldehyde / melamine / tosylamide copolymer, galactoarabinane, glycereth-7 hydroxystearate / IPDI copolymer, glycerol / MA / rosin acid Copolymer, Glycerin / Phthalic Acid Copolymer, Glycerol / Phthalic Acid Copolymer Castorate, Glycerol / Succinic Acid Copolymer Castorate, Glyceryl Diricinoleate / IPDI Copolymer, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Glyceryl Undecyl Dimethicone, Glycidyl C8-1 1 Acidate / Glycerol / Phthalic Anhydride Copolymer , Glycol Rosinate, Gutta Percha, Hexylene Glycol / Neopentyl Glycol / Adipic Acid / SMDI / DMPA Copolymer, Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi OiI Copolymer, Hydrogenated Caprylyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Cetyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Decyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Hexyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Lauryl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Rosin, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Candelilla Wax, Hydrolyzed Carnauba Wax, Hydrolyzed Chitosan, Hydrolyzed Gadidae Protein, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Hydrolyzed Sunflower Seed Wax, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol Copolymer, Hyd Rolyzed Wheat Protein / Dimethicone PEG-7 Acetate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / PVP Crosspolymer, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Chitosan, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl / Methoxyethyl Acrylates / Butyl Acrylate Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl / Methoxyethyl acrylate copolymer, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Chitosan, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Acetate / Succinate, Hydroxypropyl Oxidized Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Isobutylene / Ethylmaleimide / Hydroxyethylmaleimide Copolymer, Isobutylene / MA Copolymer, Isobutylene / Sodium Maleate Copolymer, Isobutylmethacrylate / Bis- Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Isomerized Linoleic Acid, Isophorone Diamine / Cyclohexylamine / Isophthalic Acid / Azelaic Acid Copolymer,

Isophorone Diamine / Isophthalic Acid / Pentaerythritol Copolymer, Isophorone Diamine / Isophthalic Acid / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, 4,4'-Isopropylidenediphenol / Epichlorohydrin Copolymer, Lauryl Acrylate / VA Copolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Maltodextrin, Mannan, MeNa Azadirachta Conditioned Media / Culture, Methacrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Propyltrimethoxysilane, Methoxypolyoxymethylene Melamine, Methyl Ethyl Cellulose, Methyl Methacrylate / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Methyl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer , Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Myroxylon Balsamum (Balsam ToIu) Resin, Myroxylon Pereirae (Balsam Peru) Resin, Nitrocellulose, Nylon 12/6/66 Copolymer, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Oxymethylene / Melamine copolymer , Palmitic Acid / Pentaerythritol / Stearic Acid / Terephthalic Acid Copolymer, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-25/25 Dimethicone / Acrylate Copolymer, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, Pentaerythritol / Terephthalic Acid Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Cyclohexane Dicarboxylate, Perfluorononylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone, Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, Phthalic Acid Denatured With Epoxy Resin Alkyd Resin, Phthalic Anhydride / Adipic Acid / Castor Oil / Neopentyl Glycol / PEG-3 / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Benzoic Acid / Glycerin Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Benzoic Acid / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Butyl Benzoic Acid / Propylene Glycol Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Glycerol / Glycidyl Decanoate Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Trimellitic Anhydride / Glycol Copolymer, Piperylene / Butene / Pentene Copolymer,

Piperylenes / butenes / pentenes / pentadiene copolymer, pistacia lentiscus (mastic) gum, polianthes tuberosa extract, polyacrylamides, polyacrylamidomethylpropanes sulfonic Acid, Polyacrylates-1, Polyacrylates-2, Polyacrylates-5, Polyacrylates-6, Polyacrylic Acid, Polyamides-1, Polybeta-Alanines, Polybeta-Alanines / Glutaric Acid Crosspolymer, Polybutyl Acrylates, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polychlorotrifluoroethylenes, Polydiethylene Glycol Adipate / IPDI Copolymer , Polydimethylaminoethyl methacrylates, polyester-1, polyester-2, polyester-3, polyethylacrylates, polyethylenes, polyethylenes naphthalates, polyethylene terephthalates, polyethylglutamates, polyethylmethacrylates, polyglucuronic acid, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearates / IPDI copolymer, polyisobutenes, polylysines, polymethacrylamides, polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium methosulfates, Polymethacrylic acid, polymethyl acrylates, polymethylglutamates, polymethyl methacrylates, polyoxyisobutylenes / methylene urea copolymer, polyoxymethylene melamines, polypentaerythrityl terephthalate, polypentenes, polyperfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, poly-p-phenylenes terephthalamides, polyphosphorylcholines glycol acrylates,

Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5,

Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9,

Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-1 1, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13,

Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17,

Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22,

Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29,

Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33,

Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37,

Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45,

Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49,

Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-51, Polyquaternium-56, Polyquaternium-57,

Polyquaternium-61, Polysilicone-6, Polysilicone-8, Polysilicone-1 1, Polysilicone-14, Polystyrene, Polyurethane-1, Polyurethane-2, Polyurethane-4, Polyurethane-5, Polyurethane-6, Polyurethane-7, Polyurethane-8 , Polyurethane-10, Polyurethane-1 1, Polyurethane-12, Polyurethane-13, Polyvinylacetal Diethylaminoacetate, Polyvinyl Acetate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinyl Caprolactam, Polyvinyl Chloride, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Isobutyl Ether, Polyvinyl Laurate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, Polyvinyl Stearyl Ether, Potassium Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Potassium Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Potassium Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, PPG-26 / HDI copolymer, PPG-17 / IPDI / DMPA copolymer, PPG-12 / SMDI copolymer, PPG-7 / succinic acid copolymer, PPG-26 / TDI copolymer, PPG-10 tocophereth-30, PPG-20 Tocophereth-50, Propylene Glycol Diricinoleate / IPDI Copolymer, Pseudotsuga Menziesii (Balsam Oregon) Resin, Pullulan, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, PVP, PVP Montmorillonite, PVP / VA / ltaconic Acid Copolymer, PVP / VA / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, Quaternium-22, Rhizobian Gum, Rosin, Rubber Latex, Serum Albumin, Shellac, Sodium Acrylates / Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium DVB / Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium MA / Diisobutylene Copolymer, Sodium MA / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium PG-Propyldimethicone Thiosulfate Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium PVM / MA / Decadiene Crosspolymer, Sodium Styrene / Acrylate Copolymer, Sodium Tauride Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer , Starch / Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Diethylaminoethyl Ether, Stearamidopropyl Dimethicone, Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer, Stearoyl Epoxy Resin, Stearyl HDI / PEG-50 Copolymer, Stearyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Styrax Benzoin gum, styrene / acrylates / acrylonitrile copolymer, styrene / acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer, styrene / acrylates copolymer, styrene / allyl benzoate copolymer, styrene / DVB crosspolymer, styrene / isoprene copolymer, styrene / MA copolymer, styrene / methacrylamide / acrylate copolymer , Styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer, styrene / VA copolymer, styrene / VP Copolyme r, sucrose benzoate / sucrose acetates isobutyrate / butyl benzyl phthalate copolymer, sucrose benzoate / sucrose acetate isobutyrate / butyl benzyl phthalate / methyl methacrylate copolymer, sucrose benzoate / sucrose acetate isobutyrate copolymer, TEA acrylate / acrylonitrogen copolymer, TEA diricinoleate, TEA Diricinoleate / IPDI Copolymer, Terephthalic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonate / Glycol Copolymer, Tetradecyloctadecyl Behenate, Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristate, Tetradecyloctadecyl Stearate, Titanium Isostearates, Tosylamide / Epoxy Resin, Tosylamide / Formaldehyde Resin, Tricontanyl PVP, Triethylene Glycol Rosinate, Trimethylol Propane, Cyclohexene Dicarboxylate, Trimethylolpropane Triacrylate, Trimethylpentanediol / Isophthalic Acid / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer,

Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan, Triticum Vulgaris (Wheat) Protein, Tromethamine Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, VA / Butyl Maleate / Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, VA / CrotonatesA / inyl

Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates A / inyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / Crotonic Acid / PEG-20M Copolymer, VA / DBM Copolymer, VA / Isobutyl MaleateA / inyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VAA / inyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, VAA / inyl Chloride Copolymer, Vinyl Acetates, Vinylamines / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam A / P / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Vinyl Chloride A / inyl Laurate Copolymer, VP / Dimethicone Acrylates / Polycarbamyl / Polyglycol Ester, VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer,

VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, VP / eicosene copolymer, VP / hexadecene copolymer, VP / polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, VPA / A copolymer, welan gum, yeast beta-glucan, yeast polysaccharides, zein.

Finally, the antistatic effect of polymers is another essential function for cosmetic agents. With the help of the electrical properties of these polymers, the surfaces of the cosmetically treated substrates skin, nails and keratinic fibers are influenced in their electrical potential. In hair care, for example, this effect reduces the effect known as "fly-away effect" and is based on the electrostatic repulsion of the hair fibers, but it also affects the skin surface on the skin surface, and some of these polymers have their optimum effect In the compositions according to the invention, preference is given from this group of polymers to those which at the same time belong to at least one of the groups of fixing and / or film-forming polymers It is also possible to use, in each case, at least one antistatic, at least one fixing and at least one film-forming polymer however, it is preferred to select the polymers such that at least one of the polymers has at least two of the desired properties.

Examples of such antistatic polymers are:

Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, AMP Isostearoyl Gelatin / Keratin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Benzyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caesalpinia Spinosa Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Cocamidopropyl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silicon Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiIk Amino Acids, Dimethicone Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride, Dimethicone Propylethylenediamine Behenate, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, Ditallow Dimonium Cellulose Sulfate, Gelatin / Keratin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium C Hloride, Gelatin / Lysine / Polyacrylamides Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Beta-Glucan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein,

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silica, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Whey, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Wheat Amino Acids, Laur / Myrist / Palmitamidobutyl Guanidines Acetate, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiCl, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Hydrolyzed Collagen, Oleamidopropyldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, PEG-2 Coco-Benzonium Chlorides, PEG-10 Coco-Benzonium Chlorides, PEG-2 Cocomonium Chlorides, PEG-15 Cocomonium Chlorides, PEG-5 Cocomonium Methosulfates, PEG-15 Cocomonium Methosulfates, PEG-15 Cocopolyamines, PEG-9 Diethylmonium Chlorides, PEG-25 Diethylmonium Chlorides , PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-3 Dioleoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-3 Distearoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-4 Distearylethonium Ethosulfate, PEG-2 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-8 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Hydrogenated T PEG-20 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Tallowmonium Chloride, PEG-5 Isodecyloxypropylamine, PEG-2 Lauramine, PEG- 5 Oleamine, PEG-15 Oleamine, PEG-30 Oleamine, PEG-2 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-15 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-12 Palmitamine, PEG-8 Palmitoyl Methyl Diethonium Methosulfate, PEG / PPG-1/25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG- 2 Rapeseedamine, PEG-2 Soyamine, PEG-5 Soyamine, PEG-8 Soyamine, PEG-10 Soyamine, PEG-15 Soyamine, PEG-2 Stearamine, PEG-5 Stearamine, PEG-10 Stearamine, PEG-15 Stearamine, PEG 50 Stearamines, PEG-2 Stearmonium Chlorides, PEG-15 Stearmonium Chlorides, PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Chlorides, PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Lactates, PEG-10 Stearyl Benzonium Chlorides, PEG-6 Stearylguanidines, PEG-5 Tallow Amides, PEG-2 Tallow Amine, PEG-7 Tallow Amine, PEG-11 Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Tallow Amine, PEG-20 Tallow Amine, PEG-25 Tallow Amine, PEG-3 Tallow Aminopropylamine PEG-10 Tallow Aminopropylamine, PEG-15 Tallow Aminopropylamine, PEG-20 Tallow Ammonium Ethosulfate, PEG-5 Tallow Benzonium Chloride, PEG-15 Tallow Polyamine, PEG-3 Tallow Propylenedimonium Dimethosulfate, PG Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, PG Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride, Polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfates, Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-1 1, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13 , Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium -30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46 , Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50,

Polyquaternium-54, Polyquaternium-60, Polysilicone-1, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, PPG-2 Cocamine, PPG-9 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-40 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-2 Hydrogenated Tallowamine, PPG-24-PEG -21 Tallowaminopropylamine, PPG-2 Tallowamine, PPG-3 Tallow Aminopropylamine, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15, Quaternium-16, Quaternium-18, Quaternium -18 Methosulfates, Quaternium-22, Quaternium-24, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-27, Quaternium-30, Quaternium-33, Quaternium-43, Quaternium-45, Quaternium-51, Quaternium-52, Quaternium-53, Quaternium- 56, Quaternium-60, Quaternium-61, Quaternium-63, Quaternium-70, Quaternium-71, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-73, Quaternium-75, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-77, Quaternium-78, Quaternium- 79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Sick, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quaternium-80, Quaternium-81, Quaternium-82, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-86, Quaternium-88, Quaternium-89 , Quaternium-90, Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiIk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfates, Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chlorides, Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Wheat Germamidopropyl Epoxypropyldimonium Chlorides, Wheatgermamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfates.

Of course, the emulsion-stabilizing polymers are also among the polymers preferred according to the invention. These are understood to mean polymers which essentially support the structure and the stabilization of emulsions (O / W and W / O as well as multiple emulsions). Surfactants and emulsifiers are of course the essential ingredients, but the stabilizing polymers contribute to a reduction in the coalescence of the emulsified droplets by positively affecting the continuous or disperse phase. This positive influence may be due to an electrical repulsion, an increase in viscosity or a film formation on the surface of the droplets. These properties of the polymers in question can also be used to particular advantage in the compositions according to the invention in order to dissolve the powdery compositions according to the invention before and / or during the application of the powder in water.

Examples of such polymers are Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates / Amino Acrylates / CIO-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, AIIyI Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Phosphatidyl Rapeseedate, Ammonium Polyacrylate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ammonium Shellacate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Beeswax, Bentonite, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose G Ceratonia siliqua gum, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, chitosan lauroyl glycinate, cholesterol, cholesterol / HDI / pullulan Copolymer, Com Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-3, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-8, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-9, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-12, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-15, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-20, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-30, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-40 , C12-14 Sec-Pareth-50, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Gellan Gum, Hydrolyzed Beeswax, Hydrolyzed Candelilla Wax, Hydrolyzed Carnauba Wax, Hydrolyzed Collagen PG-Propyl Dimethiconol, Hydrolyzed Sunflower Seed Wax, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Isostearyloxy Isopropanolamine, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Lanolin, Lanolin Alcohol, Magnesium Alginate, Maltodextrin, Methoxy PEG-17 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methylcellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Microcrystalline Wax, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ozokerite, Pectin, PEG-350, PEG-400, PEG-500, PEG-12 Carnauba, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol copolymer, PEG-6 hydrogenated palmamide, PEG-100 / IPDI copolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG- 45M, PEG-65M, PEG-90M, PEG-1 15M, PEG-160M, PEG / PPG-20/23 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-23/6 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-8/3 Laurate, PEG / PPG 10/3 Oleyl Ether Dimethicone, Polyacrylic Acid, Polyethylene, Polyethylene / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolyol, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate / IPDI Copolymer, Polypropylene Terephthalate, Polysilicone-16, Polyvinyl Acetate, Potassium Algina Potassium Undecylenoyl Carrageenan, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Com Protein, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, PPG-3 C12-14 Sec-Pareth, Potassium Undecylenoyl Alginate, Potassium Undecylenoyl Carrageenan, Potassium Undecylenoyl -7, PPG-4 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-9, PPG-2 tocophereth-5, PPG-5 tocophereth -2, PPG-10 tocophereth-30, PPG-20 tocophereth-50, PVM / MA copolymer, PVP, PVP / decene copolymer, PVP montmorillonite, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fiber, Saccharated Lime, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate A / inyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfate , Sodium C4-12 olefin / maleic acid copolymer, Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfate, Sodium Dextrin Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polynaphthalenesulfonate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium / TEA Undecylenoyl Alginate , Sodium / TEA-Undecylenoyl Carrageenan, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Styrene / MA Copolymer, Sucrose Polypalmate, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Wax, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, TEA Alginate, TEA -Dextrin Octenylsuccinate, undecylenoyl inulin, undec Ylenoyl Xanthan Gum, Welan Gum, Xanthan Gum, Zinc Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Polymers can increase the viscosity of aqueous and non-aqueous phases in cosmetic preparations. In aqueous phases, their viscosity-increasing function is based on their solubility in water or their hydrophilic nature. They are used in both surfactant and emulsion systems. This property of the polymers is also advantageous in the compositions according to the invention before and / or during use.

The following are some examples of typical polymeric thickeners for aqueous systems:

Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth -20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates A / inyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Agar, Agarose, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Algin, Alginic Acid, Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate / Vinyl formamide copolymer, ammonium

Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Amylopectin, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Attapulgite, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Bentonite, Butoxy Chitosan, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Calcium Alginate, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan , Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitin, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose , Cholesterol / HDI / Pullulan Copolymer, Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Diglycol / CHDM / Isophthalates / SIP Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, DMAPA Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / acrylo Nitrogen Copolymer, Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Gelatin, Gellan Gum, Glyceryl Alginate, Glycine Soybean (Soybean) Flour, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hectorite, Hydrated Silica, Hydrogenated Potato Starch, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Chitosan, Hydroxyethyl Ethyl Cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Chitosan, Hydroxypropyl Ethylene Diamine Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Hydroxystearamide MEA, Isobutylene / Sodium Maleate Copolymer, Lithium Magnesium Silicate, Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate, Macrocystis Pyrifera (KeIp), Magnesium Alginate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Magnesium Silicate, Magnesium Trisilicate, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methyl Cellulose, Methyl Ethyl Cellulose, Methyl Hydroxyeth ylcellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Natto Gum, Nonoxynyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Pectin, PEG- 800, PEG-crosspolymer, PEG-150 / decyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, PEG-175 diisostearate, PEG-190 distearate, PEG-15 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-140 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether , PEG-100 / IPDI Copolymer, PEG-180 / Laureth-50 / TMMG Copolymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M , PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M, PEG-90M, PEG-115M, PEG-160M, PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate, PEG-180 / octoxynol 40 / TMMG copolymer, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, PEG-4 rapeseedamide, PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, polyacrylate-3, polyacrylic acid, polycyclopentadiene, polyether-1, polyethylene / isopropyl maleate / MA copolyol, polymethacrylic acid, Polyquaternium-52, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Potassium Alginate, Potassium Aluminum Polyacrylate, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Polyacrylate, Potato Starch Modified, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, PPG- 14 Laureth-60 Isophoryl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, Propylene Glycol Alginate, PVP / Decene Copolymer, PVP Montmorillonite, Rhizobian Gum, Ricinoleic Acid / Adipic Acid / AEEA Copolymer, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta Glucan, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch , Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfates, Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfate, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicates, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium Polyacryloyl Dimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Silicoaluminate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, sodium stearo xy PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Sulfonates, Sodium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Tauride Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Starch, Starch / Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether, Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Synthetic Fluorophlogopite, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Tapioca Starch, TEA Alginate, TEA Carbomer, Triticum Vulgaris (Wheat) Starch, Tromethamine Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Tromethamine Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Welan Gum, Xanthan Gum, Yeast Beta Glucan, Yeast Polysaccharides, Zea Mays (Com) Starch.

Another way to increase the viscosity of cosmetic products is the thickening of the non-aqueous phase, the lipid phase of the cosmetic products. For this purpose, polymers are used which are not water-soluble but compatible with lipids. They are also used for the gelation of cosmetic products with high lipid levels. This also contributes significantly to the excellent application of the agents according to the invention.

The following are some of these polymers listed:

Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid / PPG-10 Copolymer, AIIyI Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Alumina Magnesium Metasilicate, Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate, Beeswax, Behenyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Bispolyethylene Dimethicone, Butadiene / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Butylene Glycol Montanate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), C29-70 Acid, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester, C20-24 Alkyl Dimethicone, C24-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, C20-24 Alkyl Methicone, C24-28 Alkyl Methicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, C10-30 Cholesterol / Lanosterol Esters, Cellobiose Octanonanoate, Ceresin, Cerotic Acid, Cetearyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Chlorinated Paraffin, Cholesterol, Cholesteryl Acetate, Cholesteryl Hydroxystearate, Cholesteryl Isostearate, Cholesteryl Macadamiate, Cholesterol yl Stearates, C10-40 Hydroxyalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Octyldodecanol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Phytosterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglycerides, C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer, Copal, Com Starch Modified, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, C6-14 Polyolefin, Decene / Butene Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Sebacic

Acid / piperazine / ethylenediamine copolymer, dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone / phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer,

Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dodecanedioic Acid / Cetearyl Alcohol / Glycol Copolymer, Ethyl Cellulose, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid A / A Copolymer, Ethylenediamine / Dimer Tallate Copolymer Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amide, Ethylene Diamine / Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Ethylene Diamine / Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer, Ethylene / Octene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Hydrogenated Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Japan Wax, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Styrene / Methyl Styrene / Indene Copolymer, Hydroxypropyl Cellulose, Isobutylene / Isoprene Copolymer, Lithium Oxidized Polyethylene, Methoxy PEG-17 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Methylstyrene / vinyl toluene copolymer, Microcrystalline Wa x, Montan Acid Wax, Montan Wax, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Nylon 61 1 / Dimethicone Copolymer, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ouricury Wax, Oxidized Beeswax, Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Oxidized Polyethylene, Oxidized Polypropylene, Ozokerite, Paraffin, PEG-18 Castor OiI Dioleate, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-58 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Succinate, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG- 10 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated C Astor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-5 Lanolinamide, PEG-5 Oleamide Dioleate, Phthalic Anhydride / Butyl Benzoic Acid / Propylene Glycol Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Glycerol / Glycidyl Decanoate Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Trimellitic Anhydride / Glycols Copolymer, piperylenes / butenes / pentenes copolymers, polybutenes, polybutylenes terephthalates, polycyclopentadienes, polydipentenes, polyethylenes, Polyethylene Terephthalate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Polyricinoleate, Polyisobutenes, Polyisoprenes, Polypentenes, Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy Difluoromethyl Distearamide, Polypropylene, Polysilicone-4, Polysilicone-5, Polysilicone-17, Polystyrene, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinyl Laurate, Potassium Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Potassium PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Succinate, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, PVP / Decene Copolymer, Rhus Succedanea Fruit Wax, Rosin, Silica Dimethicone Silylates, Silica Dimethyl Silylates, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Wax, Sodium PVM / MA / Decadiene Crosspolymer, Spent Grain Wax, Steareth-10 AIIyI Ether / Acrylates Copolymer, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether, Stearoxymethicone / Dimethicone Copolymer, Stearyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Styrene / Methacrylamide / Acrylates Copolymer, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Candelilla Wax, Synthetic Carnauba, Synthetic Japan Wax, Synthetic Wax, TDI Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Tricontanyl PVP, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Trifluoropropyl Divinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Trimethylpentanediol / Isophthalic Acid / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, VP / Hexadecene Copolymer

Of course, microparticles filled or unfilled may also be used in the composition of the invention both to achieve certain effects, such as the release of an active agent from the capsules or the achievement of particular visual, esthetic effects of the overall formulation. In this case, it may be particularly advantageous when polymers are incorporated as suspending aids. Suspension aids facilitate the distribution of solids in liquids. Here, the polymers occupy the surface of the solid particles by adsorption and thereby change the surface properties of the solids. The following are examples of these polymers:

Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Methoxy PEG-15 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates A / inyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylates A / P Copolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonic Acid Copolymer, Ammonium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, Bentonites, Biotites, Calcium Lignosulfonates, Com Starch / Acrylamides / Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylates / HEMA Copolymer, Diallyloxyneohexyl Zirconium Tridecanoates, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorites, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol / Stearyl Methicone / Phenyl trimethicone copolymer, dimethylol urea / phenol / sodium phenolsulfonate copolymer, disodium methylene dinaphthalenesulfonate, disteardimonium hectorite, ethylene / MA copolymer, ethylene / VA copolymer, ethylhexyl hydroxystearoyl hydroxystearate, hectorite, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl PEI-1000, hydroxyethyl PEI-1500, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer, Isobutylene / MA Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Maltodextrin, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylate Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-17 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer , Myristoyl / PCA Ch nitrocellulose, PEG-18 Castor OiI Dioleate, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEI-7, PEI-10, PEI-15, PEI -30, PEI-35, PEI-45, PEI-250, PEI-275, PEI-700, PEI-1000, PEI-1400, PEI-1500, PEI-1750, PEI-2500, PEI-14M, perfluorononyl octyldodecyl glycol Meadowfoamate, Perlite,

Phosphonobutanetricarboxylic Acid, Polyacrylamidomethylpropanes, Sulfonic Acid, Polycaprolactones, Polyethylacrylates, Polyhydroxystearic Acid,

Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy PEG-2 Phosphates, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetates, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Neoheptanoates, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / VA / ltaconic Acid Copolymer, Quaternium-18 Bentonites, Quaternium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonites, Quaternium 18 Hectorites, Quaternium-90 Bentonites, Rhizobian Gum, Silica, Silica Dimethicone Silylates, Silica Dimethyl Silylates, Silica Silylates, Sodium Acrylates / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylic Acid / MA Copolymer, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Sodium Dimaltodextrin Phosphate, Sodium Glycereth-1 Polyphosphate, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicates, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearalkonium Bentonite, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, styrene / acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer, styrene / MA copolymer, sucrose benzoate / sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate / butyl benzyl phthalate copolymer, tosylamide / epoxy resin, tosylamide / formaldehyde resin, VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, VP / eicosene copolymer, VP / hexadecene copolymer, VPA / A copolymer.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain a plurality of, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

In a preferred embodiment, it may also be advantageous to formulate at least one avivating and / or at least one film-forming, consolidating polymer and / or at least one thickening polymer. By polymers are meant both natural and synthetic polymers which may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Thus, the polymer (G) according to the invention may be both a consolidating and / or film-forming polymer and a polymer having conditioning or avivating and / or thickening properties.

The polymers (G) are contained in the compositions used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, based on the total composition. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

The following ingredients additionally contribute to the achievement and further enhancement of the effects of the invention.

With particular preference the compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (D) as further active ingredient. With this composition, increased amounts of the active ingredients are deposited on the hair or skin, resulting in synergistically enhanced effects. In the process, this effect is further markedly increased by the further use of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers as deposition aids in the compositions according to the invention. There is a Change in the charge of the surface, which can be measured for example by measuring the so-called Wilhelmy voltage.

Fatty substances (D) are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

As fatty acids (D1) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

Fatty alcohols (D2) may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ - C _o-3, preferably C10 - C22 and most preferably C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ - carbon atoms. For the purposes of the invention, for example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinol alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^®, ^® Lorol C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.

As natural or synthetic waxes (D3) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau. The amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) include, for example: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether , Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n -Nodecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Esteröle. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of Ce - C30 fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids incurred. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18- alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2- ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, caprate Kokosfettalkohol- / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylgly- koldicaprylat, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I), CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m R ¹

I

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² (D4-I)

I CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q R ³

in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ are each independently hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) stands for 0 or numbers of 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides Base of caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, and technical mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

Natural oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil , Evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.

The following table shows the average wages in% by weight of fatty acids of some of the oils according to the invention. Since the listed values are average values of the respective fatty acids, the sum of all fatty acids can also be greater or less than 100%. Of course, the effective values fluctuate more or less around these averages.

Table 1: Fatty Acid Salaries of Oils

Preferred natural oils contain at least all fat-printed fatty acids, palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid. Particularly preferred natural oils contain the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid in a total amount of at least 50% by weight of the fatty acids. A plus sign behind the respective oils in the above table characterizes these particularly preferred natural oils. Very particularly preferred oils are further distinguished by a additional content of squalene out. Highly preferred natural oils and their mixtures also have a content of linolenic acids.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that at least two of the natural oils listed in the above table can be mixed together. In this case, however, the natural oils must be selected so that the sum of the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid gives at least 50% by weight of the sum of the total fatty acids. Preferred blends of the natural oils are amaranth seed oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, shea butter amaranth seed oil, camellina oil amaranth seed oil, amaranth seed oil with olive oil, amaranth seed oil with macadamia nut oil, olive oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, camelina olive oil, shea butter olive oil, macadamia nut oil and at least one sea buckthorn oil, macadamia nut oil shea butter. However, more than three of the natural oils should not be mixed together.

Argan oil is one of the most preferred natural oils and should therefore be described in more detail as an example. Argan oil itself has been known for a long time and is already widely used by humans. It is considered to be the most valuable vegetable oil, which is why it is also called "The Berber Gold." This is also the reason why it has not found wide use and therefore little is known about the interaction with other ingredients of cosmetic compositions.

Argan oil is the oil of the seed of argan fruit. The argan tree, Argania spinosa, is one of the oldest trees in the world. Fear with a plum or olive-like appearance can not be consumed. The tree can bear fruit several times a year. The wood, the leaves and the fruits are very valuable and are used. The date-sized fruits are dried and pressed. The kernels of the fruit are won. The kernels are about three times the size of hazelnuts. The kernels are pitched to recover the seeds. These seeds are finally lightly roasted and ground to recover the oil. Argan oil is slightly reddish and has a walnut-like taste. Argan oil is considered the most valuable vegetable oil. It is unusually rich in tocopherols and shows by all known ones Vegetable oils have the strongest vitamin E activity. Furthermore, argan oil has a uniquely high concentration of unsaturated fatty acids of more than 80 wt.%. Argan oil is an excellent edible oil and dietary supplement. And also in cosmetic compositions argan oil is used because of its high content of vitamin E and unsaturated fatty acids. The importance of argan oil is also based on the unique sterols contained in argan oil, in particular Schottenol and spinasterol. Argan oil contains to tocopherol per 100 g of oil about 50 to 90 mg of tocopherols, which are composed as follows: about 40 to 60 mg tocopherol, about 5 to 15 mg ß-tocopherol, about 5 to 10 mg δ-tocopherol and about 0.5 to 5 mg of γ-tocopherol. The ratio of unsaturated to saturated fatty acids in argan oil is about 4.5: 1. The amount of sterols in the argan oil is about 120 to 250 mg / 100 g of oil. The content of fatty acids is more than 99% by weight, of which more than 80% by weight are unsaturated. The fatty acid composition is approximately as follows: palmitic acid 12 to 13%, stearic acid 5 to 7% and arachidonic acid 0.3 to 0.5% and the unsaturated fatty acids oleic acid 43 to 49.1%, linoleic acid 23.9 to 36.0%, Linoleic acid to 0.1% and gadoleic acid to 0.5%. The amount of linoleic acid in argan oil is about three times higher than that of olive oil.

Argan oil is traditionally used for cooking and in cosmetic compositions. The North Africans use argan oil to rub their skin before visiting a steam bath. It penetrates quickly into the skin and leaves a pleasant and soft skin feeling. Argan oil prevents the skin from drying out and aging and is also used to prevent itching. In hair care, it is recommended for brittle and dry hair and hair loss.

Another preferred natural oil is Amaranth seed oil. Amaranth seed oil can be easily incorporated into hair cleansing and conditioner. Incorporated into these compositions, the hair treated therewith remains more glossy and has improved care properties, in particular improved combing properties, more gloss and improved feel. In particular, it has been found that a hair cleanser based on amaranth seed oil requires the least amount of solubilizer, while comparable other oils require a significantly higher amount of solubilizer in order to achieve stable incorporation of the oil in the shampoo. For example, the amaranth seed oil can be stable and clear incorporated into a shampoo at a certain concentration of solubilizers, while many other natural oils have a phase separation.

The lipid fraction of the amaranth seeds consists essentially of triglycerides. In addition to oil and palmitic acid, linoleic acid is the main component in the fatty acid distribution of the oil. Myristic acid, stearic acid, vaccenic acid, α-linolenic acid, arachidic acid, 11-eicosenoic acid and behenic acid are also present in the fatty acid spectrum. Particularly noteworthy, however, is a particularly high proportion of squalene (6-12%) in amaranth seed oil, which is found in other conventional vegetable oils only in very low concentrations. In addition, the Amaranthsamenöl rich in many vitamin E derivatives (including α-, ß-, γ- and δ-tocopherol and α- and ß-tocotrienol) and has a remarkable proportion of the phytosterols Δ7-avenasterol, Δ7-campesterol, Δ7-sitosterol and Δ7-stigmasterol. A suitable oil according to the invention is available, for example, under the trade name "Amaranth Seed OiI" from the company Euro Ingredients.

Shea butter is to be described in more detail as another example of natural oils. Shea butter according to the invention is by no means used alone but only in admixture with at least one further natural oil, so that the total content of the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid is at least 50% by weight.

Shea butter is similar to cocoa butter. Shea butter is obtained from the seeds of the butter tree found in West Africa, Vitellaria paradoxa or Butyrospermum parkii, Sapotacaeae. It is tough-buttery consistency and relatively stable to oxidation. Shea butter is used directly for food purposes in the producer countries. Shea butter is characterized by the following characteristics: saponification number 178 to 196, iodine value 55 to 67, unsaponifiable from 2 to 1 1%. Shea butter has a melting range of 32 to 42 ⁰ C. A characteristic ingredient is the sheasterin, 2-Oleo-distearin. The essential fatty acid composition is oleic acid 49 to 50%, stearic acid 35 to 42%, Palmitic acid 5 to 6% and linoleic acid 4 to 5%. Due to the high proportion of unsaponifiable shea butter has a special status within the vegetable oils and fats. The proportion of unsaponifiable substances is usually only about 0.2 to 2% for vegetable fats. Therefore, the proportion of phytosterols in the shea butter is significantly higher than any other vegetable fats. Important representatives of the phytosterols of shea butter are, for example, α- and β-amyrin, Basseol, Parkeol and Lupeol. The structures of α- and β-amyrin are as follows:

α-Amyrtn β-Amyrin

The structure of Lupeol is as follows:

These shea butter phytosterols are all triterpenes with more than 15 carbon atoms. Finally, in the shea butter also a share of waxes available.

Shea butter is used in cosmetic compositions especially in skin care products. However, it is also included in some compositions for cleaning and care of keratinic fibers. In a most preferred embodiment, the compositions further contain squalene. Squalene is found in large quantities in shark fishes. In smaller quantities it is also found in some vegetable fats and oils. Squalene is also found in the natural lipid coat of keratinous fibers. Oils of the invention, which also contain squalene and are thus used most preferably according to the invention, can be found in Table 1 on the pages above. Squalene belongs to the triterpenes. The structure of squalene is shown in the following figure.

[(all-E) -2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyl-2,6,10,14,18,22-tetracosahexaene, spinacene]

In this most preferred drug combination, squalene is used in proportion to the combination of the fatty acids in an amount of 1: 1000. A ratio of 1: 100 is preferred. Particularly preferred is a squalene: fatty acid ratio of 1:50, most preferably 1:20 and most preferably 1:10 and most preferably a ratio of 1: 5.

The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions used according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight. -%.

One last group of substances that can be used as fatty substances are silicone oils.

Silicone oils (S) cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. But also the softness and the elasticity of the film, which is formed by film-forming polymers on the hair for the purpose of strengthening and styling, is positively influenced by silicones. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon Links. Initially, these are understood to mean the dimethiconols (S1). Dimethiconols form the first group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (S1-I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):

R ²

I (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - Si - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _y - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ )

I (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _z - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ )

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 up to 50,000. The molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ⁰ C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethiconols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of the dimethiconols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.

When the dimethiconols of the invention are used as an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles is according to the invention from 0.01 μm to 10000 μm, preferably from 0.01 to 100 μm, very particularly preferably from 0.01 to 20 μm and most preferably from 0.01 to 10 microns. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethiconols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethiconols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both low branched as well as highly branched Dimethiconole be very particularly preferred.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), AbN OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel Sl 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois FiIs), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148 , Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all aforementioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all aforementioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-SiI CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above).

The dimethiconols (S1) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconol based on the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible that the dimethiconols form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In that case, it may be appropriate when the composition is briefly homogenised by shaking immediately before use. In this case, the amount of dimethiconol may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.

Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones, which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-I): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (S2-I)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2 - II):

R ²

I (SiR ¹ S) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - Si - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _y - (SiR ¹ ₃ )

I

O - (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _z - (SiR ¹ s)

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ⁰ C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicones can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicones can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.

When the dimethicones of the invention are used as an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 μm to 10000 μm, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 μm and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethicones are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention therefore, branched dimethicones are understood to mean that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethicones can be very particularly preferred.

The dimethicones (S2) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconone based on the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible that the dimethicones form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term. In this case, the amount of dimethicone may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.

Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of preferred silicones. Dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the following structural formulas:

(SiR ¹ ₃₎ - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - (Sirpe - O -) _y - (SiR ¹ ₃₎ (S3 - I)

or by the following structural formula:

PE - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) - PE (S3 - II)

Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-III): R ²

I PE - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - Si - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _y - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) - PE (S3

I (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _z - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -PE

or by the structural formula (S3 - IV):

(SiR ¹ ₃ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - Si - O - (SiR ² PE - O -) _y - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (S3 - IV)

I

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical. Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from Ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ⁰ C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the Dimethiconcopolymere can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.

When the dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are used as emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 μm to 10000 μm, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 μm and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the Branching degree is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.

The dimethicone copolyols (S3) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible for the dimethicone copolyols to form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, the amount of Dimethiconcopolyol up to 40 wt.%, Preferably in amounts of up to 25 wt.% Based on the total composition.

Aminofunctional silicones, or also called amodimethicones (S4), are silicones which have at least one (optionally substituted) amino group.

Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (S4-I)

M (R _a Q _b SiO _(4- ab) / ₂ ) _x (R c SiO ₍₄ -c) / ₂ ) y M (S ₄ -I)

in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group attached to hydrogen and Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group; "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number ranging from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number in the range of from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art is, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ -, - OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _Z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is - N (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar Ratio of R _a Q _b SiO _(4-a - _{b) / 2} units to R _c Si0 _{(4-c) / 2} units is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1: 65, preferably from about 1: From 5 to about 1:65 and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are employed, then the various variable substituents in the above formula may be present on the various silicone components present in the silicone blend are, be different.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-II)

R _'a G _3-a -Si (OSiG ₂₎ n (OSiG _b R' _2-b) _m -O-SiG ₃ - _a -R'a (S4 - II),

contain, in which means:

G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H _3, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃₎ _2, -CH (CH ₃₎ CH ₂ CH _3, -C (CH ₃₎ _3; a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1, m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,

R ^' is a monovalent radical selected from O -N (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂ o -N (FT) ₂ o -N ⁺ (R ") ₃ A- o -N ⁺ H (R ") ₂ A ^" o -N ⁺ H ₂ (R ") A ^" o -N (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R" H ₂ A ^" , where each R" is the same or various radicals from the group - H, -phenyl, -benzyl, the Ci _-20- alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , - CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) _3! and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-III)

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _n [OSi (CH ₃ )] _m - OSi (CH ₃ ) ₃ (S 4 - III),

I CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Compositions according to the invention which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-IV) are also particularly preferred.

R- [Si (CH ₃₎ ₂ -O] _n1 [Si (R) -O] _m - [Si (CH ₃₎ _2] _n2 -R (S4 - IV),

I

(CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration. Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g , The amine number stands for the MiIIi- equivalents of amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

The amodimethicones (S4) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of amodimethicone based on the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible for the amodimethicones to form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term. In this case, the amount of amodimethicone may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.

Only recently, completely novel polyammonium polysiloxane compounds are known in which the siloxane substructures are optionally connected to each other via ammonium substructures. Such compounds and their use in cosmetic products are described, for example, in the published patent application WO 02/10257.

As a silicone, the compositions of the invention may contain at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound, which is constructed as described below. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds contain:

a1) at least one polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the general formulas: -AE-, -EA-, -AE-A'- and / or -A'-EA-, in which: A is one of the groups: -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -OC (O) CH ₂ -, -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -,

A ^' means: -CH ₂ C (O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, -C (O) CH ₂ -,

-C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and

E represents a polyalkylene oxide group of the general formulas:

- [CH ₂ CH ₂ 0] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃₎ O] _r - and / or - [OCH (CH ₃₎ CH _2] r, - [OCH ₂ CH _2] _q -, with q = 1 to 200 and r = O to 200, wherein the terminal oxygen atom of group A binds to the terminal -CH ₂ group of group E, and the terminal carbonyl carbon of group A 'to the terminal oxygen atom group E in each case to form ester groups, and / or at least one terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the formula -AE- R ² wherein a and e have the abovementioned meaning, and R ² is H, straight chain, cyclic or branched Ci - C ₂₀ - hydrocarbon radical represented by - O-, or -C (O) may be interrupted and substituted with -OH and may be acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic,

a2) at least one divalent or trivalent organic radical containing at least one ammonium group,

a3) at least one polysiloxane structural unit of the general formula:

-KSK-, in which S is -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O- [Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ - and in which R ¹ is C _r C ₂₂ -alkyl, C _r C ₂₂ fluoroalkyl or aryl, n is O to 1000, and when there are several S groups in the polysiloxane compound, they may be the same or different, where K is a bivalent or trivalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -

C ₄₀ hydrocarbon radical, which is represented by -O-, -N-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, -N ⁺ (R ³ ) - and -

N ⁺ (R ¹ ) (R ³ ) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R ^{1 is} as defined above, or optionally a bond to a bivalent one

R represents R ³ , and wherein R ^{3 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH may represent, or -AER ² , wherein A, E and R are as defined above, wherein the radicals K may be the same or different from each other, and in the case that K represents a trivalent radical, the saturation of the third valence via a bond the abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group takes place,

a4) an organic or inorganic acid radical for neutralizing the charges resulting from the (n) ammonium group (s).

The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are characterized in that they have the above-defined components a1) to a4). The polysiloxane compounds are formed by binding of said structural units or radicals a1) to a3) to each other. Component a4) serves to neutralize the positive charges resulting from component a2).

The polysiloxane compounds of the invention may be oligomers or polymeric compounds. Oligomeric compounds also include the case described below wherein the polysiloxane compound has only one repeating unit.

Polysiloxane compounds of the invention are naturally formed by alternating linkage of divalent radicals.

In the case of the polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention, the terminal atom groups result from the terminal atom groups of the starting materials used. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art.

In a preferred embodiment, the polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are linear polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds which are composed of the structural components a1) to a3). So can the linear polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention, in particular their formed from the repeat units linear polymeric backbone, by alternating juxtaposition of polyalkylene oxide structural units a1), organic radicals containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium group a2) and polysiloxane structural units a3) are constructed. That is, the optionally present in the structural components beyond free valences (as may occur in trivalent radicals as component a2) or trivalent radicals K) are preferably not used to build polymeric side chains or polymeric branches.

In a further embodiment, the main chain of the linear polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention can be built up from the organic radicals containing at least one ammonium group a2) and the polysiloxane structural units a3), and the polyalkylene oxide structural units a1) bind as side chains to the trivalent organic ammonium group radical. For example, the following structures can result:

- (polyalkylene oxide structural unit-polysiloxane structural unit-polyalkylene oxide structural unit - preferably quaternary ammonium group radical) _x -

- (polysiloxane structural unit - preferably quaternary ammonium group radical) _x- polyalkylene oxide structural unit) _x -

- (polysiloxane structural unit - preferably quaternary ammonium group radical) _x -

I

Polyalkylenoxidstruktureinheit

Depending on the molar ratio of the monomeric starting compounds, polysiloxane compounds according to the invention may result which have only one repeating unit. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art. This case leads, for example, to inventive polysiloxane compounds of the structure:

(terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit quaternary ammonium group radical)

Polysiloxane moiety-quaternary ammonium group residue terminal

Polyalkylenoxidstruktureinheit).

The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention preferably consist essentially of the components a1) to a4), the polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention naturally having the terminal groups resulting from the reaction of the monomeric starting materials. However, it is also possible to use monofunctional chain terminators.

The polyalkylene oxide structural units a) may be divalent radicals of the general formulas:

-A-E, -E-A, -A-E-A'- and / or -A'-E-A- act. The rest A means:

-CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -OC (O) CH ₂ -, -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -

The rest A ^' means:

-CH ₂ C (O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, -C (O) CH ₂ -, -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -

C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -.

The polyalkylene oxide group E of the general formulas:

- [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r - and / or - [OCH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ ] _r - [OCH ₂ CH ₂ ] _q with q = 1 or 2 up to 200 and r = O to 200, close all possible ethylene oxide / propylene oxide Groupings. Thus, they may be ethylene oxide / propylene oxide random copolymer groups or ethylene oxide / propylene oxide block copolymer groups with any arrangement of one or more ethylene oxide or propylene oxide blocks.

The attachment of the radicals A or A to the group E takes place in such a way that the terminal oxygen atom of group A to the terminal -CH ₂ - group of group E, and the terminal carbonyl carbon of group A 'to the terminal oxygen atom of Group E each bind to form ester groups.

The polyalkylene oxide structural units a1) may furthermore be a monovalent, ie terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the formula: - AER ² in which A and E have the abovementioned meaning, and R ^{2 is} H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ - C ₂ 0 hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, or -C (O) - and substituted with -OH and acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic.

The component a2) from which the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are composed is at least one divalent or trivalent organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group. The binding of the radical to the other components of the polysiloxane compounds of the invention is preferably carried out via the nitrogen atom of one or more ammonium groups in the organic radical. The term "divalent" or "trivalent" means that the organic ammonium radical to form bonds in particular to the other components of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention has two or three free valences. The ammonium radical is expediently represented by an NH ₄ ⁺ group in which at least two hydrogen atoms are substituted by organic groups. Preferably, it is a secondary or quaternary, more preferably a quaternary ammonium group. A quaternary ammonium group is by general definition (see, for example, Römpp Chemie Lexikon) a group in which all four hydrogen atoms of an NH ₄ ⁺ group are replaced by organic radicals. The component a2) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention is at least one polysiloxane structural unit of the general formula:

-K-S-K-,

S is a polysiloxane group of the general formula

-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -, in which R ¹ denotes C 1 -C ₂₂ -alkyl, C 1 -C ₂₂ -fluoroalkyl or aryl, preferably phenyl, n = 0 to 1000, and when plural groups S are present in the polysiloxane compound, they may be the same or different.

R ¹ is preferably C ¹ -C ₈ -alkyl, C ¹ -C ₈ -fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R1 is preferably d-ds-alkyl, d-Ce-fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R ¹ is preferably C _r C ₆ alkyl, Ci - C ₆ - fluoroalkyl, preferably dC ₄ fluoroalkyl, and phenyl. More preferably, R ^{1 is} methyl, ethyl, trifluoropropyl and phenyl.

The term "C _r C ₂₂ -alkyl" in the context of the present invention means that the aliphatic hydrocarbon groups have 1 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be straight-chain or branched. Examples which may be mentioned are methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, isopropyl, neopentyl and 1,2,3 trimethylhexyl.

The term "C 1 -C ₂₂ -fluoroalkyl" in the context of the present invention means aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched and are substituted by at least one fluorine atom, by way of example monofluoromethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoroethyl , Perfluorethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2-trifluorobutyl.

The term "aryl" in the context of the present invention are unsubstituted or mono or polysubstituted with OH, F, Cl, CF ₃ C _r C ₆ alkyl, C _r C ₆ alkoxy, C ₃ -C ₇ - cycloalkyl, C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl or phenyl substituted phenyl. The term may optionally also mean naphthyl. K represents a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₄ -OH hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, C (O) -, -C (S) -, - N ⁺ (R ³ ) -, -NR ¹ -, and -N ⁺ (R ¹ ) (R ³ ) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

"Interrupted" means that in the case of bivalent radicals a - CH ₂ - grouping in the case of the trivalent radicals a -CH- grouping of the hydrocarbon radical are replaced by said groups. This also applies to the rest of the description, if this name is used.

The group K binds via a carbon atom to the silicon atom of the group S.

The group K can, as seen above, also preferably have quaternary ammonium groups, so that ammonium groups result in addition to the ammonium groups in said component a2) in the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention.

The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention can, for example in the radical K, have amino groups. The reaction of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention with acids leads to their protonation. Such protonated amino group-containing polysiloxane compounds are included in the scope of the present invention.

The bonding of component a3), the polysiloxane structural unit -K-S-K-, to the other structural components via the radical K preferably does not take place via a nitrogen atom of the radical K.

R ¹ is as defined above or optionally represents a bond to a divalent radical R ³ , so that a cycle results.

R ³ represents a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH , or -AER ² , wherein A, E and R ^{2 are} as defined above. The radicals K can be identical or different from one another, and in the case where K represents a trivalent radical, the saturation of the third valence takes place via a bond to the abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group.

The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention furthermore contain component a4), at least one organic or inorganic anionic acid radical for neutralizing the charges resulting from the (n) ammonium group (s). Organic or inorganic acid radicals are radicals that formally result from the elimination of one or more protons from organic or inorganic acids and include, for example, halides such as fluoride, chloride, bromide, sulfates, nitrates, phosphates, carboxylates such as formate, acetate, propionate etc., sulfonates, sulfates, polyether carboxylates and polyether sulfates etc. Chloride is preferred. The organic or inorganic anionic acid radicals as component a4) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention may be identical or different from one another. Thus, halide ions preferably result from the reaction of the amines with alkyl halides, while, for example, carboxylates result from the carboxylic acids which can be added in the reaction of bisepoxides with amines.

In a preferred embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention, K represents a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₄₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R ^{1 is} as defined above, and wherein the radicals K may be the same or different from each other.

The abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, group is preferably a radical of the general formula:

-N ¹ -FN ¹ -, wherein N ^{1 is} a quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R ⁴ ) N ⁺ (R ⁵ ) -, in which

R ^{4 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched d C ₂ o hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, and R ⁵ is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC ₂ o-hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or a single bond to a divalent radical R ⁴ or a tetravalent radical F, and the radicals R ⁴ and R ⁵ within the group -N ¹ -FN ¹ - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other,

F is a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, - C (O) -, -C (S) -, a siloxane chain S, where S is the above-mentioned references, interrupted and can be substituted with -OH.

For further details of the definitions of the quaternary ammonium group of formula -N ¹ -FN ¹ - (preferred embodiments, etc.), refer to the explanations of the first embodiment of the present invention for component a, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds in which this group is realized. which are also valid in this more general context.

The abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, group may furthermore preferably be a radical of the general formula - (R ⁶ ) N ⁺ (R ⁷ ) -, in which R ^{6 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched d C ₃₀ hydrocarbyl radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-,

-C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, or R ⁶ represents a single bond to a trivalent radical K.

R ⁷ is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched CrC ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH- -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or -AER ² , wherein -AER ^{2 has} the abovementioned meaning, or a single bond to a divalent radical R ⁶ or to a trivalent radical K. The radicals R ⁶ and R ⁷ may be the same or different from each other. For further details of the definitions of the quaternary ammonium group of formula - (R ⁶ ) N ⁺ (R ⁷ ) - (preferred embodiments), reference is made to the explanations of the second, third and fourth embodiment to the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, component a), of Reference is made to present active substance complex according to the invention, in which this group is realized, and which also have validity in this more general context.

The aforementioned organic radical containing at least one ammonium group may furthermore preferably be a radical of the general formula: -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ -, where N ^{5 is} an ammonium group of the general formula - (R ²³ ) N ⁺ (R ²⁴ ) - is, in which

₁ -C ₂ 0- hydrocarbon residue R ²³ is hydrogen, a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -ununterbrochen and may be substituted with -OH,

R ^{24 represents} hydrogen, a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH, or represents a single bond to a divalent radical R ²³ , and the radicals R ²³ and R ²⁴ within the group -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be identical or different from each other, F ^{1 represents} a bivalent straight-chain, is a cyclic or branched -N hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -N-, -C (S) - or by a group -E-,

and wherein a plurality of the groups N ⁵ and F ^{1 may} each be the same or different from each other.

For further details of the definitions of the ammonium group of formula -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - (preferred embodiments), reference is made to the explanations of the fifth embodiment of component a, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds of the present invention, in which this group is exemplified is, and which are also valid in this more general context. In the following, the components a) of the active substance complex according to the invention, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, are described in detail with reference to five preferred embodiments of these compounds.

A particular embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds (which will be referred to as the first embodiment of component a) of the active ingredient complex), wherein the aforementioned organic radical containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, as component a2) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention a radical the general formula:

-N ¹ -FN ¹ - is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the following general formula (I):

- [BN ¹ -FN ¹ ] m- (I) where m = 2 to 500,

B is -AEKSKEA- and additionally -AE-A'- or -AEA-, where S, K, -AE-, - EA-, -AE-A 'or -A'-EA- and - N ¹ -FN ¹ - are as defined above, and the proportion of the group -AE-A 'or -A'-EA- in the group B may be chosen so that the mass of -AE-A'- or -A'-EA- from 0 to 90%, preferably 0% or 0.1 to

50% of the mass of the polysiloxane S in the polymer.

The first embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds preferably relates to linear alkylene-oxide-modified polyquaternary polysiloxanes of the general formula (I ¹ )

- [B-NT-FN ¹ ], - (I ^' ) wherein m is 2 to 500,

B -AEKSKEA-, S -Si (R ¹⁾ ₂ -O [Si (R ¹⁾ ₂ -O] n-Si (R ¹⁾ ₂ - R ¹ Ci-C ₂₂ alkyl, C _r C ₂₂ fluoroalkyl or Aryl, n 0 to 1000,

K is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C _2O -

Hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH, E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure - [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _Cl - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r - with, q 1 to 200, r 0 to 200 and

A is -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-,

N ^{1 is} a quaternary ammonium structure - (R ⁴ ) N + (R ⁵ ) -

R ^{4 represents} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by O-, -NH, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and may be substituted with -OH

R ^{5 represents} R ⁴ or a single bond to R ⁴ or F,

F is a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, a siloxane chain S , wherein for S the above-mentioned references apply, can be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

The possibility of a tetravalent substructure for F means that F can form a branched or ring system with the limiting N ¹ , so that F then participates with two bonds at each quaternization of both limiting N ¹ . For a more detailed illustration, reference is made to the published patent application WO 02/10257, in particular to Example 1 therein.

In a further embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, the possibility of a divalent substructure for R ^{4 means} that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure in which R ⁵ in this case is a single bond to R ⁴ . Examples are morpholinyl and piperidinyl structures. More preferred embodiments of this so-called first embodiment of the invention and processes for the preparation of said polysiloxane compounds of the formula (I) or (I ¹ ) are described below.

R ⁴ is preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, - CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁴ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁴ , wherein wherein R ^{14 is} a straight-chain, cyclic or branched CrCi ₈ - hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH.

As mentioned above, R ⁴ and R ⁵ can also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas

CH2-CH2 CH2-CH2

/ \ / \

O CH

\ / \ /

form.

The preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds can be referred to the above statements.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, R ^{4 is} preferably a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁ 6, more preferably C ₃ -C ₆ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -C ( O) -, -C (S) - and may be substituted by -OH, more preferably a C ₃ - C ₁₆ - hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) - , -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with - OH, wherein R ^{1 has} the abovementioned meaning.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, F is preferably a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₂ O hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, - C (O) -, - C (S), a siloxane chain S, where S is the above-mentioned references, may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, K is preferably -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₄ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₆ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ -, and - CH = CHCH ₂ -. In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, R ^{14 is} preferably unsubstituted C ₅ -C ₇ -hydrocarbon radicals derived from the corresponding fatty acids or hydroxylated C ₃ -C ₇ radicals which can be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds which are used in the present invention as active ingredients a) of the active compound complex according to the invention, R ¹⁴ furthermore preferably represents hydroxylated radicals from the group consisting of

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, m is 2 to 100, preferably 2 to 50.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, n is 0 to 1000, preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 80 and particularly preferably 10 to 80.

In the so-called first embodiment of the invention, q is 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20 and particularly preferably 2 to 10.

In the so-called first embodiment of the invention, r is 0 to 200, preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 50, and even more preferably 0 to 20.

For the preparation of the polysiloxane-polyammonium compounds according to the invention both of this first embodiment and all further preferred Embodiments of the polysiloxane-polyammonium compounds a) according to the invention of the active substance complex according to the invention are very explicitly referred to the published patent application WO 02/10257.

A particular embodiment of the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (II),

R ² -EAN ² -KSKN ² -AER ² (II) wherein

S, K, -AE-, -EA- and R ^{2 have} the abovementioned meanings, and N ^{2 is} an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group, the general formula

- (R ⁸ ) N ⁺ (R ⁹ ) - is in which

R ⁸ is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched -C ₂ o hydrocarbyl group represented by -0-, -NH-, -C (O) -, - C (S) - may be substituted with -OH and interrupted,

R ^{9 is} a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC ₂ o hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or a single bond to a divalent radical R ⁸ or to a trivalent radical K, and the radicals R ⁸ and R ⁹ within the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (II) may be identical or different from each other.

The polysiloxane compounds of the second embodiment are preferably (-alkylene oxide and polyquaternary modified polysiloxanes of the general formula (II ¹ )

R ¹⁶ - EAN ² -KSKN ² -AER ¹⁶ (IT)

What are the terms for, -S -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O- [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) - where R ^{1 is} Ci-C ₂₂ -alkyl, Ci-C ₂₂ - Fluoroalkyl or aryl, n is 0 to 1000, K is a divalent or trivalent straight chain, cyclical or branched C ₂ -C ₂ o-hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -N-, -NH-

-NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, N ^{2 is} a quaternary ammonium structure

- (R ⁸ ) N ⁺ (R ⁹ ) -

R ⁸ is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched -C ₂ o-hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -NH-, C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH,

R ⁹ R ⁸ or a single bond to K or R ⁸ , A is -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-

E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure

- [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) OIr q 1 to 200 r 0 to 200 and

R ¹⁶ H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched CrC ₂₀ -

Hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, or -C (O) - and

-OH can be substituted and acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic.

The possibility of a trivalent substructure for K means here that K can be branched and then participates with two bonds in the quaternization of N ² . The possibility of a divalent substructure for R ⁸ means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure, where R ^{9 is} then a single bond to R ² .

R ⁸ is preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH -CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁷ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁷ , in which R ¹⁷ denotes a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₈ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -C ( O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

As mentioned above, R ⁸ and R ⁹ may also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas

CH ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₂ -CH ₂

/ \ / \ O CH

\ / \ /

CH2-CH2 form CH2-CH2.

The preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds can be referred to the above statements.

In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, K is preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched one

C ₃ -C ₆ -hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ₁ -, -N-, -C (O) -,

-C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R ^{1 is} as defined above.

Preferred for K are, for example, radicals of the following structures:

-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ - or

R ⁸ is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₆ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O), -C (S) - and substituted by -OH ,

R ¹⁶ is preferably a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₈ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic or olefinic.

Furthermore, R ^{16 is} preferably C ₅ -C ₇ -alkyl, -CH ₂ CH = CH ₂ ,

-CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH = CH ₂ , -CH ₂ CCH, -C (O) CH ₃ , -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₃ . R ¹⁷ preferably represents unsubstituted C ₅ -C ₇ -hydrocarbon radicals which are derived from the corresponding fatty acids or hydroxylated C ₃ -C ₇ radicals which are based on hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably can be attributed to saccharide carboxylic acids, is.

R is more preferably selected from the group

selected.

In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, n is preferably 0 to 200, more preferably 0 to 80, particularly preferably 10 to 80.

In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, q is preferably 1 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20, and particularly preferably 2 to 10.

In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, r is preferably 0 to 100, and more preferably 0 to 50.

In the so-called second embodiment of the invention, r is preferably 0 to 20, and more preferably 0 to 10.

For the preparation of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention of the so-called second embodiment, reference is made to the statements on the first preferred embodiment.

A particular embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds a) as an essential constituent of the active ingredient complex according to the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (III): - [KSKN ³ Jm- (III)

where S, K and m are as defined above,

N ^{3 is} an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula

- (R ¹⁰ ) -N + (R ¹¹ ) - wherein R ^{10 is} a monovalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted by -OH or represents a single bond to K, R ¹¹ is -AER ² , wherein -AER ^{2 has} the abovementioned meaning.

Preferably, the polysiloxane compounds of the third embodiment are alkylene oxide-modified polyparternary polysiloxanes of the general formula (IN ^' ),

- [KSKN ³ ] m- (III ^' ), in which m is 2 to 500, S is -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ - With R ¹ Ci-C ₂₂ alkyl, Ci-C ₂₂ fluoroalkyl or aryl, n = 0 to 1000, N ^{3 is} a quaternary ammonium structure

- (R ¹⁰ ) N ⁺ (R ¹¹ ) - where R ^{10 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC ₃ o-hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-,

-C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH or a

Single bond to K, R ³ -AE - is, with

A is -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- and E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of structure

- [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r -R ¹⁸ q from 1 to 200, r from 0 to 200, R ^{18 is} H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic, and

K is a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C _4O-

Hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, - NR ¹ -, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH or contains a quaternary ammonium structure N ⁵ , With

N ⁵ in the meaning of - (R ¹⁹ ) N ⁺ (R ²⁰ ) -

R ^{19 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -

A hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH or represents a single bond to R ¹⁰ , and R ^{20 is} -AE-, the as defined above.

For the production of the preferred embodiments of the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, reference should be made explicitly to the published patent application WO 02/10257, as previously described.

R ¹⁰ and R ¹⁹ are independently of one another preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²¹ or - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²¹ , wherein R ^{21 is} a straight-chain, cyclic or branched d- Ciβ hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O ) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

In one embodiment of the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, a bivalent substructure for R ¹⁰ is a cyclic system-forming structure wherein R ¹⁰ then has a single bond to K, preferably to a tertiary amino structure or to the quaternary structure N ⁵ over R ¹⁹ .

The preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes can be referred to the above statements. Preferably, R ^{10 is} a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₂₅ hydrocarbon radical which may be substituted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -continuous and -OH.

Preferably R ^{19 is} a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched CrC ₂₅ hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH.

In the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, K is furthermore preferably a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₃ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, more preferably K is -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ -,

wherein R ^{20 is} as defined above.

In the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes, R ² or R ^{18 is} preferably a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₈ -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and -OH substituted and acetylenically or can be olefinic. More preferably R ² or R ^{18 is} C _r C ₆ -alkyl,

-CH ₂ CH = CH ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH = CH ₂ , -CH ₂ CCH, -C (O) CH ₃ or -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₃ .

Preferably, R ^{21 is} an unsubstituted Cs-Ci _T hydrocarbon radical derived from the corresponding fatty acids or having hydroxylated C ₃ -C ₇ residues, and from the group of hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably derived from saccharide carboxylic acids.

For example, R ²¹ is:

In the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes, m is preferably 2 to 100, and more preferably 2 to 50, n is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 80, and particularly preferably 10 to 80, q is 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 50 particularly preferably 2 to 20, and more preferably q is 2 to 10, r is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 50, more preferably 0 to 20, and even more preferably r is 0 to 10.

For the preparation of the polysiloxane compounds of the so-called third embodiment according to the invention to be used, reference is again made to the published patent application WO 02/10257.

A particular embodiment of the polysiloxanes (which is referred to below as the so-called fourth embodiment of the polysiloxanes to be used according to the invention) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (IV):

- [N ⁴ -KSKN ⁴ -AE-AV or - [N ⁴ -KSKN ⁴ -A'-EA] _m - (IV)

wherein m, K, S, -AE-A ^' and -A ^' are as defined above, and

N ^{4 is} an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R ¹² ) N ⁺ (R ¹³ ) - where R ^{12 is} a monovalent or divalent radical is straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, R ^{13 are} the meanings of R ¹² , or represents a single bond to K or R ¹² , and R ¹² and R ^{13 may be the} same or different from each other. The polysiloxane compounds of the fourth embodiment are preferably alkylene oxide-modified polyquartemäre polysiloxanes of the general formula (IV),

- [N ⁴ -KSKN ⁴ -AEA] m- (IV) where m = 2 to 500, S -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ - in which

R ¹ is C _r C ₂₂ alkyl, C _r C ₂₂ fluoroalkyl or aryl, n is O to 1000, K is a bivalent, or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched

C ₂ -C _2O - represents hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -NH-,

-NR ¹ , -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, N is a quaternary ammonium structure - (R ¹² ) N ⁺ (R ¹³ ) -, wherein R is ^{12 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched CrC ₂₀ -

Hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and with -

OH can be substituted,

R ¹³ is R ¹² or a single bond to K or R ¹² , A is -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure - [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r - _where q = 1 to 200 and r = 0 to 200 pointed out.

More preferred embodiments of this so-called fourth embodiment polysiloxanes of the formula (IV) or (IV) are described below.

The possibility of a trivalent substructure for K means that K can be branched and then be involved with two bonds in the quaternization of N ⁴ . The possibility of a divalent substructure for R ¹² means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure, where R ^{13 is} then a single bond to R ¹² .

R ¹² is preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²² or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²² , in which R ^{22 is} a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₈ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) - , -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

As mentioned above, R ¹² and R ¹³ may also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas

form.

For the preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called fourth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, reference may be made to the above statements.

R ¹² is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₆ -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH can.

In the so-called fourth embodiment, K is preferably a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₃ -C ₆ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -N-, -C (O ) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, more preferably K is -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ - or

-CH2CH2CH2θCH2CHCH '> - N ^ Preferably, R ^{22 is} an unsubstituted C ⁵ -C ¹⁷ hydrocarbon radical derived from the corresponding fatty acids or having hydroxylated C ³ -C ¹⁷ radicals which may be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.

More preferred is R22.

m is preferably 2 to 100, and particularly preferably 2 to 50. n is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 80, and particularly preferably 10 to 80. q is 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 50, and particularly preferably 2 to 20, more preferably q is 2 to 10. r is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 50, and more preferably 0 to 20, more preferably r is 0 to 10.

The term "C 1 -C ₂₂ -alkyl or C 1 -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical" as used above means in the context of the present invention aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or 1 to 30 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched. Examples which may be mentioned are methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, isopropyl, neopentyl, and 1,2,3-trimethylhexyl.

The term "C _r C ₂₂ fluoroalkyl" as used above means in the context of the present invention aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched and are substituted by at least one fluorine atom. Examples include monofluoromethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoroethyl, perfluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2 trifluorobutyl listed. The term "aryl", as used above, in the context of the present invention means unsubstituted or mono- or polysubstituted by OH, F, Cl, CF ₃ C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy, C ₃ -C ₇ -cycloalkyl, C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl or phenyl substituted phenyl. The term may optionally also mean naphthyl.

A particular embodiment of the polysiloxanes according to the invention as constituent a) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes) is represented by the polysiloxanes of the general formula (V):

[-N -F ^ö ^ö ^η -N -Y-] _m wherein Y is a group of the formula -KSK- and -AEA- or -A'-EA,

wherein m, K, S, -AE-A 'and -A'-EA- are as defined above, the groups K, S, -AE-A'- and -A'-EA- within the polysiloxanes of the general formula (V) may be the same or different from each other, and the molar ratio of the group -KSK- and the group -AE-A'- or -A'-EA- in the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (V) of 100: 1 to 1: 100,

N ^{5 is} an ammonium group of the general formula - (R ²³ ) N ⁺ (R ²⁴ ) -, in which

R ^{23 represents} hydrogen, a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC ₂ o-hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH R ^{24 can be} hydrogen, a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, - C (O) -, C (S) - and substituted by -OH may be, or a single bond to a divalent radical R ²³ , and the radicals R ²³ and R ²⁴ within the group -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different, F ^{1 is} a bivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) - or - C (S) - or by a group -E-, where E is as above, and wherein a plurality of N ⁵ and F ^{1 may} each be the same or different from each other.

The molar ratio of the group -KSK- and the group -AE-A ^' or -A ^' -EA- in the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (V) is between 100: 1 and 1: 100. This molar ratio can, as in the publication WO 02/10257, by the choice of the molar ratio of the starting compounds, in particular the ratio of the invention preferably used (, -

Halocarboxylic acid polyalkylene oxide ester compounds and the polysiloxane bisepoxide compounds are controlled. The properties of the products depend essentially on the ratio of the starting materials used, as well as the length of the polyalkylene oxide or polysiloxane blocks contained therein.

In a preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, K is a divalent hydrocarbon radical having at least 4 carbon atoms which has a hydroxyl group and which may be interrupted by an oxygen atom.

In a preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, F1 is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - or may be interrupted by a group - E -, wherein E is as defined above, and wherein the carbon atoms resulting from the radical E are not counted among the 2 to 30 carbon atoms of the C ₂ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radical ,

In a further preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the invention

-N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - a group of the formula:

-N (R ²⁵ R ²⁶ ) + - F ² -N (R ²⁵ R ²⁶ ) ⁺ - wherein R ^{25 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH may, particularly preferably is methyl,

R ²⁶ a monovalent straight chain, cyclical or branched C ₁ -C lenwasserstoffrest ₂ 0- Koh by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) - may be substituted OH, -, -C (S) is interrupted and with more preferably methyl or a single bond to a divalent radical R ²⁵ , and the radicals R ²⁵ and R ²⁶ within the group -N ⁵ -F ² -N ⁵ - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other, and

F ^{2 is} a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -.

In an even more preferred embodiment, F ^{2 is} a branched, preferably straight-chain, C 1 -C ₆ -alkanediyl group, of which a 1,6-hexanediyl (or hexamethylene) group is preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment, the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds

_N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - a group of the formula:

-N (R ²⁷ R ²⁸ ) ⁺ -F ³ -N (R ²⁷ R ²⁸ ) ⁺ - wherein

R ²⁷ and R ^{28 are} each hydrogen, C _r C ₆ alkyl or hydroxy (C _r C ₆ ) alkyl, preferably hydrogen, methyl or -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, and

F ^{3 is} a divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical interrupted by a group -E-, wherein E is as defined above.

F ³ is particularly preferably a group of the formula

Wherein E is as defined above and D is each a single bond or a straight or branched C ¹ -C ⁶ alkanediyl group, with the proviso that D is not a single bond when it binds to a terminal E group oxygen atom. Preferably, the group -DED- is replaced by a group of the formula

-D- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _v (OCH ₂ CH (CH ₃ )) _w -OD- where D is a straight or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkanediyl group and r and q are as defined above. In the group

-D- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ^ (OCH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) XOD- may be the ethylene oxide and

Propylene oxide units may be arranged arbitrarily, e.g. as a random copolymer unit or as a block copolymer unit.

v is preferably 1 to 100, more preferably 1 to 70, still more preferably 1 to 40.

w is preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 70, even more preferably 0 to 40.

In a further preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the invention, the group

-N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ by a group of the formula:

-N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ -F ² -N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ - and a group of the formula:

-N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ -F ³ -N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ - in which the substituents each have the above meanings.

This means that the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (V) are composed of two different types of the group -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ -.

In this embodiment, the molar ratio of the group

-N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ -F ² -N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ - to the group

-N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ -F ³ -N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ -

Suitably 70:30 to 95: 5, preferably 80:20 to 90:10.

The polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (V) may be cyclic or linear. In the case of linear compounds, the terminal groups either result from the bifunctional monomers or their functionalized derivatives described below, or from monoamines added as chain terminators during the polymerization. The terminal groups resulting from the use of the monoamine chain-stopper are preferably present as ammonium groups, either by quaternization or protonation.

In a further preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, K is one of the groups of the formula:

- (CHa) ₃ OCH ₂ CHCH ₂ ^ - (CEO) ₃ OCHiCH-

> H CHiOH

In the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes q is preferably in the range from 1 to 50, in particular 2 to 50, especially 2 to 20 and especially 2 to 10, and r is in the range of 0 to 100, in particular 0 to 50, especially 0 to 20 and especially 0 to 10.

In the so-called fifth embodiment of the invention, the organic or inorganic acid radical for neutralizing the charges resulting from the (n) ammonium group (s) is expediently selected from inorganic radicals such as chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, sulfate, or organic radicals such as acetate, Propionate, octanoate, decanoate, dodecanoate, tetradecanoate, hexadecanoate, octadecanoate and Oleat, wherein as mentioned above, chloride and bromide preferably result from the reaction of the alkyl halide groups with amine groups.

Furthermore, the polysiloxanes of the fifth embodiment are present in protonated form as amine salts or as amines.

The polysiloxanes of the fifth embodiment of the invention are conveniently prepared by one of the methods described in the laid-open specification WO 02/10257.

The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above can be obtained for example under the tradename Baysilone ^® from GE Bayer Silicones. The products with the names Baysilone TP 391 1, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 3911 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention.

The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above are very particularly preferred in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight each based on the total composition.

The ratio of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds to a further synergistic active ingredient component selected from the group of polymers, the protein hydrolysates, the silicones, the vitamins and the plant extracts is generally 1: 1000 to 1: 2, preferably 1: 100 to 1: 2 , more preferably 1:50 to 1: 2, and most preferably 1:10 to 1: 2.

If a mixture of at least two silicones is used, this mixture is present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight .% And in particular 0.1 to 5 wt.% Of silicone mixture based on the composition. According to the invention, it is also possible that the mixture of silicones form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term. In this case, the amount of silicone mixture may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that a mixture of several fatty substances (D) from different classes of fatty substances, at least two different classes of fatty substances in the inventive

Compositions can be used. The preferred mixtures of at least two oil and fat components necessarily contain at least one further silicone component in this case. Preferably, the silicone component in this case is selected from the dimethiconols and the amodimethicones.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.

Another inventive synergistic active ingredient in the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient according to the invention are complex protein hydrolysates and / or its derivatives (P).

Proteins and / or protein hydrolysates are able to significantly restructure the internal structure of the skin and hair. Strengthening of the structure, that is to say restructuring in the sense of the invention, is to be understood as meaning a reduction in the damage to the skin caused by most diverse influences. Here, for example, the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role. Restructured areas of the skin and restructured hair are characterized, for example, by improved strength, reduced roughness or improved grip. In addition, they have an optimized strength and elasticity. Proteins and protein hydrolysates have been known for a long time and are widely used in cosmetics. Reference is made to the relevant literature.

It has long been known to use proteins but also modified proteins to achieve care effects in cosmetic preparations. Either water-soluble proteins or proteins modified by chemical and / or enzymatic reactions, ie made water-soluble, are used for this purpose. In the case of the reactions to achieve adequate solubility in water, fibrous proteins often require such extensive degradation that the cosmetic effectiveness is no longer sufficient.

As a result, in particular an increase in the mildness and the skin compatibility but also, if desired, a fine creamy foam is achieved when using the compositions according to the invention. This foam, which is very fine in structure, creamy and extremely pleasant to the touch, is achieved in all compositions in which, in particular, surface-active substances are contained as further ingredients. The effectiveness of the composition according to the invention is further increased by the simultaneous use of polymers and / or penetration and swelling aids. In these cases, even after the application of the particular composition significantly more protein hydrolyzate or its derivative remains on the surface of the hair, resulting in an improved effect. The hair is thus significantly strengthened and smoothed in its structure. This effect is also clearly detectable with objective proofs of effectiveness such as, for example, the measurement of the combing forces of wet and dry hair, the measurement of the breaking forces or the measurement of the torsion angle on the skin. A confirmation of these results can also be found in the results of the consumer tests.

Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. Furthermore, according to the invention from amino acids and Understood amino acid derivatives polymers under the term protein hydrolysates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, according to the invention, β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons. Of course, the present teaching according to the invention also encompasses that in the case of the amino acids, these may be present in the form of derivatives such as, for example, the N-acyl derivatives, the N-alkyl or the O-esters. In the case of N-acyl derivatives, the acyl group is a formyl radical, an acetyl radical, a propionyl radical, a butyryl radical or the radical of a straight-chain, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In the case of an N-alkyl derivative, the alkyl group may be linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated and has a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms. In the case of O-esters, the alcohols on which the esterification is based are methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, pentanol, neopentanol, isopentanol, hexanols, heptanols, caprylic or caproic alcohol, octanols, nonanols, decanols, dodecanols, lauranols, in particular saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols having a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms. Of course, the amino acids can be simultaneously derivatized both at the N atom and at the O atom. Of course, the amino acids can also be used in salt form, in particular as mixed salts together with edible acids. This may be preferred according to the invention.

Examples of amino acids and their derivatives as protein hydrolysates according to the invention are: alanine, arginine, carnitine, creatine, cystathionine, cysteine, cystine, cystic acid, glycine, histidine, homocysteine, homoserine, isoleucine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, methionine, norleucine, norvaline , Ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, sarcosine, serine, threonine, tryptophan, thyronine, tyrosine, VaNn, aspartic acid, asparagine, glutamic acid and glutamine. Preferred amino acids are alanine, arginine, glycine, histidine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, proline, hydroxyproline serine and asparagine. Alanine, glycine, histidine, lysine, serine and arginine are very particularly preferably used. Most preferably, glycine, histidine, lysine and serine are used.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

In particular, vegetable proteins and their hydrolyzates as well as derivatives in cosmetics have been used more and more frequently recently. For example, products based on wheat, oats, rice, corn, potatoes or soya are known. To the plants, which contain interesting active ingredients, belongs also the family of the Moringagewächse. These include about 14 species. One of them is Moringa oleifera (Moringa pterygosperma). Other species include Moringa drouhardii, Moringa concanensis or Moringa peregrina. Extraction of this seed with a water-glycerin mixture yields an extract consisting of proteins having a molecular weight of about 500 to 50,000 daltons. Such a protein is for example available under the trade name Puricare ^® LS 9658 by the company. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques commercially.

Moringa growths have been known since ancient times. Better known are plants of this species under their common name "Wunderbaum." They are preferably native to tropical areas.The various parts of this genus of plants have been used since ancient times, especially for medical purposes.From the seeds of the Moringa growths by a gentle extraction with water and This protein has a molecular weight of 500 to 50,000 daltons Preferred is a P rotein extra kt having a molecular weight of 3,000 to 30,000 daltons, most preferably from 5,000 to 15,000 daltons Extract is obtained from the plant Moringa Oleifera. Furthermore, the extract according to the invention naturally contains water and glycerol on account of the extraction. The content of extracted protein in the extract is 0.01 to 20% by weight. A content of protein of from 0.01 to 10% by weight is preferred. Particularly preferred is an extract with a protein content of 0.01 to 5 wt.%. Furthermore, at least 30% by weight of glycerol are contained in the extract. Finally, water is contained in the extract according to the invention.

In the cosmetic compositions, the above-described protein extract from the seeds of the Moringa growths is contained in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20% by weight. Preferably, amounts of the extract of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Very particularly preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt.% Based on the total cosmetic composition used.

Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soya, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates.

Beads of mussels consist essentially of inorganic and organic calcium salts, trace elements and proteins. Pearls can be easily obtained from cultivated mussels. The cultivation of the mussels can be done in fresh water as well as in sea water. This can affect the ingredients of the beads. According to the invention, preference is given to a pearl extract which originates from shells cultivated in marine or salt water. The pearls consist to a large extent of aragonite (calcium carbonate), conchiolin and an albuminoid. The latter components are proteins. Also included in beads are magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds, and phosphates. To prepare the pearl extract, the beads are pulverized. Thereafter, the pulverized beads are extracted by the usual methods. As extraction agent for the preparation of the pearl extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Underwater are understood to mean both demineralized water and seawater. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with demineralized water or sea water, preferably. Pearl extracts based on water / glycerine mixtures have proven to be particularly suitable. Depending on the extraction conditions, the pearl proteins (conchiloin and albuminoid) can be largely in the native state or already partially or largely present as protein hydrolysates. Preference is given to a pearl extract in which conchiolin and albuminoid are already partially hydrolyzed. The essential amino acids of these proteins are glutamic acid, serine, alanine, glycine aspartic acid and phenylalanine. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, it may be advantageous if the bead extract is additionally enriched with at least one or more of these amino acids these amino acids. In the most preferred embodiment, the pearl extract is enriched with glutamic acid, serine and leucine.

Furthermore, depending on the extraction conditions, in particular depending on the choice of extractant, a more or less large proportion of minerals and trace elements in the extract is found again. A preferred extract contains organic and / or inorganic calcium salts as well as magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds and / or phosphates. A most preferred pearl extract contains at least 75%, preferably 85%, more preferably 90% and most preferably 95% of all ingredients of the naturally occurring pearls.

Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ^® or Crodarom ^® Pearl. In the cosmetic compositions, one of the above-described pearl extracts is contained in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20% by weight. Preferably, amounts of the extract of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Very particularly preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt.% Based on the total cosmetic composition used.

Another very special protein hydrolyzate is extracted from the silk.

Silk is a cosmetically very interesting fiber protein silk. By silk one understands the fibers of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.). The raw silk fiber consists of a double thread fibroin. As a cement substance, sericin holds this double thread together. Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28% by weight of sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1% by weight of dyes and mineral constituents.

The essential components of sericin are with about 46 wt.% Hydroxyamino acids. The sericin consists of a group of 5 to 6 proteins. The essential amino acids of sericin are serine (Ser, 37% by weight), aspartate (Asp, 26% by weight), glycine (Gly, 17% by weight), alanine (Ala), leucine (Leu) and tyrosine (Tyr) ,

The water-insoluble fibroin belongs to the skieroproteins with a long-chain molecular structure. The main components of the fibroin are glycine (44% by weight), alanine (26% by weight), and tyrosine (13% by weight). Another important structural feature of the fibroin is the hexapeptide sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly.

Technically, it is possible in a simple manner to separate the two silk proteins from each other. It is therefore not surprising that both sericin and fibroin are known on their own as raw materials for use in cosmetic products. Furthermore, protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on the respective individual silk proteins are known raw materials in cosmetic products. For example, sericin as such is available from Pentapharm ltd. sold as a commercial product called Sericin Code 303-02. Far more often, fibroin is offered as a protein hydrolyzate with different molecular weights in the market. These Hydrolyzates are understood in particular to be "silylhydroxylates". Thus hydrolyzed fibroin is distributed with average molecular weights from 350 to 1000, for example, under the trade designation Promois ^® Siik. DE 31 39 438 A1 describes colloidal fibroin solutions as an additive in cosmetic products.

The positive properties of the silk protein derivatives of sericin and fibroin are known per se in the literature. Thus, the sales brochure of the company Pentapharm describes the cosmetic effects of sericin on the skin as soothing, hydrating and film-forming. The properties of a shampoo containing sericin as a caring component are described in "Ärztlichen Kosmetologie 17, 91-10 (1987)" by W. Engel et al. referenced. The effect of a fibroin derivative is described, for example, in DE 31 39 438 A1 as a caring and curative for the hair.

Preference according to the invention as active ingredients may be used: native sericin, hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized sericin, such as commercial products with the INCI names Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, or Hydrolyzed SiIk, a mixture of the amino acids serine, aspartate and glycine and / or their Methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, wherein in this mixture, the serine and / or its derivatives to 20 to 60 wt.%, The aspartate and / or its derivatives to 10 to 40 wt.% And the glycine and / or its derivatives to 5 to 30 wt.% Are included, with the proviso that the amounts of these amino acids and / or derivatives thereof preferably to 100 wt.% supplement, as well as their mixtures.

According to the invention, the following can also be used as active ingredients: native fibroin converted into a soluble form, hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized fibroin, especially partially hydrolyzed fibroin, which contains as its main constituent the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly, the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly, a mixture of the amino acids glycine, Alanine and tyrosine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, wherein in this mixture, the glycine and / or its derivatives in amounts of 20 60% by weight, containing alanine and its derivatives in amounts of 10-40% by weight, and the tyrosine and its derivatives in amounts of 0-25% by weight, with the proviso that the amounts of these amino acids and / or or their derivatives are preferably added to 100 wt.%, And their mixtures.

If both silk protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives are used simultaneously in the compositions according to the invention of the inventive composition, it may be preferred according to the invention that at least one of the two silk components, fibroin or sericin, is used in the native or, if appropriate, solubilized form. According to the invention, it is also possible to use a mixture of several silk protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof.

When a mixture of at least two silk hydrolyzates and / or their derivatives is used, it may be preferred according to the invention that the two silk protein hydrolysates are in the ratio of 10:90 to 70:30, in particular 15:85 to 50:50 and very particularly 20:80 be used to 40:60 based on their respective contents of active ingredient in the preparations of the invention.

The derivatives of sericin and fibroin hydrolysates include both anionic and cationized protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin according to the invention and the derivatives prepared therefrom can be prepared from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of the two Hydrolysis types are obtained. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin and / or derivatives thereof, whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 10,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin also mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives of the present invention include the products commercially available under the INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiC, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiCl Amino Acids, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed SiCl, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiIk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silica, Quaternium -79 Hydrolyzed SiIk. Typical examples of the anionic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention include the products mentioned under the INCI names and commercially available: Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silicon, Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Silicon or Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Silicon. Finally, as typical examples of the derivatives of sericin and fibroin which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the products commercially available under the INCI names: Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed SiIk and Hydrolyzed SiIk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol. Also useful in the present invention, although not necessarily preferred, are the commercially available products having the INCI names Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-1 , Hexapeptide-2, MEA-Hydrolyzed SiIk.

The compositions used according to the invention contain the silk protein hydroxysates and / or derivatives thereof in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.005 to 5, in particular 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred. Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold, for example, under the names Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or crotein ^® (Croda).

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as eis - trans - isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers.

According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates (P).

The protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight. up to 5% by weight.

The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Another object of the invention is therefore the use of derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.

Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H. The skin, which naturally also includes the scalp, leaves behind the treatment with these very particularly preferred components a much better-looking, more vital, stronger impression with significantly improved gloss and a very good grip both in the wet and in the dry state. Furthermore, this drug affects the regeneration and restructuring of the affected skin and damaged hair, leads to a regulation of the fat balance, so that the thus treated skin and hair greases more slowly and not prone to over-greasing. In addition, this ingredient has an anti-inflammatory and skin-calming effect. Finally, the split hair is regenerated and repaired by these agents again. These ingredients are able to penetrate the hair and strengthen and repair the hair from the inside out. This "repair effect" can be demonstrated objectively by means of DSC measurements, for example, these effects can also be verified subjectively in the consumer test.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex includes vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)

- Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

- Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. According to the invention usable derivatives of panthenol are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile become established. Biotin is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. panthenol, Pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain antimicrobial compounds. Suitable antimicrobial compounds are, for. B. cationic surfactants such. B. Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromid, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride or known as the amine fluoride N, N, IST tris (2-hydroxyethyl) - N ^' octadecyl-1, 3-diaminopropan-dihydrofluoride. Good are also the antimicrobial biguanide compounds such. B. the polyhexamethylene biguanide (Vantocil® IB, ICI) or the 1, 1 ^' hexamethylene bis (4-chlorophenyl) biguanide ("chlorhexidine") in the form of a water-soluble, compatible salt, e.g. In the form of the acetate or gluconate. Preferably, the antimicrobial 5-amino-hexahydropyrimidines, z. For example, the 1, 3-bis (2-ethylhexyl) -5-methyl-5-amino-hexahydropyrimidine ("hexetidine"). Further preferably suitable antimicrobial agents are the non-cationic, phenolic, antimicrobial substances, in particular the halogenated phenols and diphenyl ethers. Particularly suitable antimicrobial compounds of this type are z. B. the

6,6 ^'- methylene-bis- (2-bromo-4-chlorophenol) ( "bromochlorophene") and ^{^{2,4,4'-trichloro-2'}} - hydroxy-diphenyl ether ( "triclosan").

Further suitable antimicrobial substances are the p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters and sesquiterpene alcohols such. As the bisabolol, farnesol, Santalol or Nerolidol.

Finally, the use of plant extracts (L) in the compositions according to the invention gives rise to further synergistic advantages. Therefore, the use of these substances is particularly advantageous.

Such combinations cause inter alia a pleasant fragrance of both the cosmetic composition, as well as the skin treated therewith and the treated hair. In this case, it may even be possible to dispense with the addition of further perfume oils and fragrances. Furthermore, these plant extracts according to the invention also favorably influence the moisture balance of the skin and the hair. In addition, they have an anti-inflammatory and skin-calming effect when, for example, chamomile or valerian are used. Stinging nettles, hops, birch and burdock roots, for example, show particularly good hair-related effects.

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves or the roots of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa and ginger root.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, valerian, coffee, cocoa, moringa, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Especially suitable for the composition according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon. According to the invention, it may be highly preferred if so-called Ayurvedic plant extracts are used as plant extracts. An ayurvedic plant extract is to be understood as any plant extract which has been prepared according to the principles of Ayurvedic teachings. The fundamentals of Ayurvedic teaching can be found in the so-called "Veda." In Ayurvedic treatment with ayurvedic extracts and oils, three different treatments are usually performed by Ayurvedic therapists.

Traditional Ayurvedic plants include Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala). For the purposes of the present invention, preference is given to cosmetic compositions containing Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala). Particularly preferred are cosmetic compositions containing Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala). Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses that mixtures of at least two of the ayurvedic plant extracts are used in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be preferred if one of the ayurvedic plant extracts is bilwa.

Santalum album (Chandana) is one of the sandalwood plants. Sandalwood is understood to mean woods of the family Fabaceae as well as woods of the family Santalaceae. The Santalaceae family includes, for example, Santalum album, the sandalwood tree. This supplies the white or yellow sandalwood. From the yellow sandalwood essential oils, the sandalwood, are obtained, which are also used in Western homeopathy in the case of urinary tract infections or kidney disease. In cosmetics, these essential oils are used exclusively as perfume oils or as components of perfume oil compositions. In particular, the steam extracted products are used as perfume oil ingredients. Aegle Marmelos or Bilwa is a member of the Rutaceae family, which are related to citrus fruits. The tree is known in both Ayurvedic and Western homeopathic teaching. Bilwa is used especially in case of stomach ailments and diarrhea. In the compositions according to the invention, bilwa can help to improve the foaming behavior, such as foaming, foam volume, creaminess of the foam or the fine-poredness of the foam. At the same time, the necessary amount of surfactants and / or emulsifiers can be reduced. This in turn leads to a better compatibility of the respective cosmetic compositions. In particular, together with mild anionic surfactants, these effects of the Bilwa are achieved.

Cyperus rotundus (Nagar motha) is a grassy plant. In Ayurvedic medicine as well as in Greek medicine Cyperus rotundus has been used as an anti-inflammatory.

Emblica officinalis (Amalki) is one of the oldest Indian fruits. The fruits are exceptionally nutritious and contain large amounts of vitamin C, among other things. Since this fruit contains five of the six tastes of human taste perception, this fruit is considered the best fruit in Ayurvedic teachings and most useful for maintaining health and healing Considered diseases. Based on scientific research, it is known that this fruit contains unique tannins and flavonoids.

Morinda Citrifolia (Ashyuka) has been used to treat almost all diseases. In particular, however, high blood pressure, heart problems and diabetes were treated with it.

Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi) is one of the succulents. In Ayurvedic medicine, the plant is used as an anti-inflammatory, against arthritis and allergies.

Crocus sativus (Kumkuma) is widely used in India. It is used especially in rice dishes. In the teaching of Ayurveda it also serves as Aphrodisiac. Furthermore, it should have fever-lowering effects. In food it is used as a spice and for coloring foods.

Nelumbo nucifera is a lotus plant. Both in the Indian teachings of Ayurveda and in Chinese medicine, Lotus is described as a benefactor for the entire physique. Lotus is also the symbol of prosperity, beauty, wealth and fertility.

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum is used as a warming plant. It stimulates blood circulation, especially of the outer limbs such as fingers and feet. It is therefore also used for colds. It increases the bioavailability of other plant extracts. Furthermore, it is used as a spice for food and drinks. In the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, it may be particularly preferable to use Cinnamomum Zeylanikum as Ayurvedic extract, if at the same time further plant extracts are to be used in the compositions according to the invention. This applies in particular to the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, sage, rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, valerian , Coffee, cocoa, moringa, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. All these last-mentioned extracts have in common that they produce specific effects. These effects are the promotion of the blood circulation of the skin, a skin soothing effect, a growth promoting effect, especially in the case of small skin lesions, an anticatalytic effect and a regulation of sebum production of the skin to name only the essential effects.

Finally, in the compositions according to the invention it is furthermore advantageously possible to use an extract of a sweetgrass. Sweet grasses are botanically associated with the family Poaceae. The Poaceae comprise about 9,000 known species in about 650 genera. Its distribution is worldwide. The sweet grasses family have been very important for humans since ancient times. For example, the grasses include the cereals, but also sugar cane or lemongrass. Chemically, especially the seeds of the sweet grasses contain high levels of proteins Prolamins and Glutamine. Examples of particularly important representatives are wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, corn, the various types of millet (European millet, finger millet, millet as examples), sugar cane, ryegrass, meadow foxtail, oat oat, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistle grass, bamboo, cotton grass , also called cogon grass. As can only be seen from these few examples, the grasses are used very widely by humans for nutrition, as medicinal plants or as building material. In cosmetics, for example, the starch obtained from corn, rice or wheat is used. But essential oils, such as citronella oil from Cymbopogon are already used in cosmetics. Finally, the protein fractions obtained from the fruits of wheat, for example, are used to produce protein hydrolysates and their derivatives. In contrast, little is known about the use of the roots of sweet grasses. In the case of the extracts of the Poaceae according to the invention extracts of the roots of the respective grasses are used predominantly. Of course, however, extracts of all other plant parts can be used.

The Poaceae family is described in various textbooks. The details of each species vary between 9000 and 12000 species. However, the division into 13 subfamilies is uniform. The subfamilies as well as selected examples are:

1) anomochlooideae,

2) Pharoideae,

3) Puelioideae,

4) Aristidoideae,

5) Danthonioideae,

6) Arundinoideae,

7) Centothecoideae,

8) Chloridoideae, for example buffalo grass, silt grasses, dog tooth grasses or love grasses,

9) panicoideae, for example cymbopogon (lemongrass), sugar cane, zea (corn), paniceae (millet), lamprey grasses, andropogonodeae (also known as imperium cylindrica, grass or cogon grass), 10) Bambusoideae, for example bamboo,

1 1) Ehrhartoideae, for example Oryzeae (rice) or Zizania (wild rice),

12) Pooideae, for example aveneae (oat grass, oat oat, oats, honey grasses, perennial oats), Poeae (grasses, bluegrasses), Triticeae (couch grass, barley, wheat, rye) and

13) other species, which are not classified in any of the aforementioned subfamilies.

In principle, all types are suitable according to the invention for obtaining an extract from the roots. In principle, according to the invention, all root extracts of the Poaceae can also be used. According to the invention, however, the use of root extracts which are particularly rich in alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, in elements of the I and II subgroups of the Periodic Table and in organic and / or inorganic sulfur are preferred. This applies in particular to the extracts of the subfamilies 8) to 12). Preferred extracts are used from one of groups 9) to 12). Particularly preferred is an extract from one of groups 9) and 10). Within the groups 9) and 10), the extract of bamboo and flame grass is very particularly preferred. Most preferred is the extract from the roots of the flame grass, Imperata Cylindrica. Such a raw material, for example, under the trade name Moist 24 ^® by the company. Sederma commercially available.

Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses that these extracts according to the invention themselves may in turn be part of a mixture of various further cosmetically and / or pharmaceutically usable premixes. For example, an extract of the invention may be included as a component of drug capsules from which it is released during use. Of course, such active ingredient capsules may also have further independent effects in the agents according to the invention. Such effects may be, for example, an exfoliating effect caused by the capsule as such. In this case, however, the capsule shell is generally destroyed and released the active ingredient according to the invention extra kt and can in turn unfold its effect. Such raw materials are available, for example from the company Cognis under the trade name Primasponge ^® commercially. An inventive Representative of these raw materials is for example Primaspong SS Ivory, which contains a bamboo extract according to the invention.

Another particularly preferred plant extract is an extract obtainable from plants of the genus Echinacea. This is to be understood as meaning an extract which, according to the invention, comprises the plant itself, its plant parts, extracts and press juices of the sun-hat family (Echinacea, synonym: Brauneria Necker), in particular Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (Mc Gregor), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), as well as to understand from these extracts to be recovered active substances. Particular preference is given to using pressed juices and extracts of sun-hatch plants, in particular of Echinacea purpurea (L) Moench.

Preferably, the pressed juices or extracts of herb (the above-ground parts of plants) and / or root of Sonnenhutgewächse be obtained. The pressed juices are preferably obtained by mechanical pressing. Particularly preferred is a pressing according to the patented by the company. Flachsmann method according to EP 0 730 830 B1, the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.

The extracts may be prepared with water, as well as polar or nonpolar organic solvents, as well as mixtures thereof in a manner known to those skilled in the art. Extracts that can be obtained by extraction with ethanol or water / ethanol mixtures and press juice are preferred.

It is possible to use both the extracts both in the original extractant and extracts / compressed juice in water or other organic solvents and / or mixtures thereof, in particular ethanol and ethanol / water mixtures. Preferably, extracted or pressed material is used as a solid to which the solvent (in particular as gently as possible) was removed. However, it is also possible to use those extracts / compressed juices to which the solvent has been partly removed, so that a thickened extract / compressed juice is used. All particularly preferred are pressed juices from the fresh Echinacea purpurea herb (Echinacea purpurea Moench herba). In particular, the extracts and / or compressed juices are used in solid form.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the active ingredient obtainable from plants of the genus Echinacea selected from pressed juices and extracts obtained from Echinacea purpurea.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

In addition to the plant extracts, a rock crystal extract has also recently been used in cosmetic compositions. Rock crystal is a modification of silica. Silica itself is also included in many other clays and earths as a companion material. For example, quartz is found in bentonite. Quartz in the form of various silicates is also used, for example, in homeopathic remedies, for example sodium aluminum silicate for the reduction of heartburn or also in the medicine of Ayurveda. Sand, which can be contaminated with quartz, finds use in cleansing cosmetic products as exfoliating body. In addition, quartz has a mystical meaning. So the rock crystal is considered something special. The varieties of rock crystal, amethyst, Smoky Quartz, Chrysoprase, Citrine, Morion or Rose Quartz are very much in demand as gemstones both as living room decoration and as garment jewelery in many cultures. These crystals and minerals are a symbol of beauty, shine and riches. It has often been and is believed that these crystals have healing properties because they are water turned to stone. Other minerals containing amorphous or finely divided silica are the opal and its varieties agate, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, heliotrope, jasper or flint. In the following quartz refers exclusively to the mineral, crystallized modifications of the quartz, which satisfy the structural formula SiO ₂ and are free of impurities. Contaminants are not understood to mean the traces of other elements embedded in them, which contribute to the color of the rose quartz, for example. Under no circumstances are the term "quartz" understood silicates, phyllosilicates, talcs, spades, etc. In particular, the term "quartz" understood and can be used according to the invention: quartz, tridymite, cristobalite, keatite, coesite, stishovite, rock crystal, smoky quartz, Amethyst, chrysoprase, citrine, morion, rose quartz, opal and its varieties agate, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, heliotrope, jasper or flint. Preference is given to quartz, smoky quartz, rock crystal, rose quartz and agate. Very particular preference is given to using smoke quartz, rose quartz and rock crystal. Most preferred is rock crystal.

Finely ground quartz and an extract of finely ground quartz is used in cosmetic compositions to give the skin and hair a velvety, soft, pleasant feeling. Furthermore, the gloss of skin and hair is remarkably increased significantly. However, there is no undesirable stress on the skin and hair. Also on the hair subsequent treatments such as cold wave or dyeing processes are not only not adversely affected but there is no impairment.

The finely ground quartz, the quartz powder, is obtained by conventional methods for comminution and grinding of rocks. Quartz powder is used especially in particle sizes from 0.5 μm up to 500 μm. Particular preference is given to particle sizes of from 0.5 to 250 μm, very particularly preferably from 10 μm to 200 μm. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the finely ground Extracting quartz with the help of protic solvents and the resulting quartz extract is used in the cosmetic compositions. Also in this embodiment are quartz, tridymite, cristobalite, keatite, coesite, stishovite, rock crystal, smoky quartz, amethyst, chrysoprase, citrine, morion, rose quartz, opal and its varieties agate, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, heliotrope, jasper or flint as starting materials Quartz, smoky quartz, rock crystal, rose quartz and agate are most preferably used Smoke quartz, rose quartz and rock crystal are most preferably used.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said quartz extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Underwater are to be understood here as demineralized water, as well as seawater and mineral water. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, iso-butanol, tert. Butanol, pentanols, hexanols or heptanols, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerols and glycols, especially glycol, diglycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol both as the sole extractant and in admixture with demineralized water, mineral water or Seawater, preferred. Extracts based on water and polyhydric alcohols in the ratio 1: 50 to 50: 1 have proved to be suitable according to the invention. A ratio of 1: 25 to 25: 1 is preferred. Particularly preferred is a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1. Most preferred is a ratio of 1: 5 to 5: 1, with a ratio of water to polyhydric alcohol of 3: 1 to 1: 1 being most preferred. The invention also includes the teaching that, of course, a plurality of alcohols and / or polyhydric alcohols can be used as extractant in admixture with water. Under mineral water is to be understood water, which natural originates from mineralized sources. For example, the mineral waters include Evian, SpA, Leau de Vichy, etc. As the extraction method, any known methods such as hot extraction or other methods may be used. A quartz extract thus obtained usually contains at least 1 to 100,000 ppm of silicon. Preferred is an extract with a minimum amount of silicon of 10 ppm. Particularly preferred is an extract with a content of silicon of at least 50 ppm. Most notably preferred is an extract with a content of at least 100 ppm. Most preferred is a content of at least 200 ppm silicon. The amount of silicon in the extract is determined by flame spectrometry in distilled water. The quartz extract may optionally be adjusted with water glass to a constant minimum content of silicon. If water glass is used to set a constant silicon content, it may still be necessary to adjust the pH of the quartz extract. The quartz extract usually has a pH of from 4 to 11, preferably from 6 to 11, more preferably from 7 to 10, and most preferably from 7.5 to 9.5. Should it be necessary to adjust the pH of the quartz extract, the pH value will be adjusted with mineral acids such as aqueous solutions of hydrogen halides, sulfuric acid and its salts, sulphurous acid and its salts, phosphorous acid and its salts, phosphoric acid and salts thereof or with organic acids Acids and their salts such as iminodisuccinic acid, etidronic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid made. The adjustment of the pH of the quartz extract with acids, which also have complex-forming properties, may be preferred. These include, for example, phosphoric acid, iminodisuccinic acid, etidronic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts. Very particular preference is given to using phosphoric acid in the case of a necessary pH adjustment. An example of a commercially available quartz extract is available under the name Crodarom ^® rock crystal by Croda free in the trade.

As a further essential ingredient, the agents according to the invention may contain purine and / or derivative (s) of purine. Purine (7 / - / - imidazo [4,5-c /] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of the purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH ₂ , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH ₃ in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways. Preferred compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here are inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).

Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (I)

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ are selected independently of one another from -H, - OH, -

NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ -CH ₃ , where the following compounds are preferred:

Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

- Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H)

Depending on the desired application of the cosmetic agent may vary the nature and amount of purine derivative. In hair cosmetic formulations has become In particular, caffeine proven useful, for example, in shampoos, conditioners, hair lotions and / or lotions preferably in amounts of 0.005 to 0.25 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% and in particular of 0.01 to 0.05 wt .-% (in each case based on the shampoo) can be used.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and derivatives thereof, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydroxides. gencarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol , 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

A particularly preferred group of swelling agents may be hydantoins. Hydantoins show several desirable beneficial effects in cosmetic compositions. One of these effects is their ability to favorably influence the swelling of the skin and hair. Therefore, compositions of the invention preferably contain 0.01 to 5 wt .-% hydantoin or at least one Hydatoinderivates. Hydantoin derivatives are particularly preferably used according to the invention, with 5-ureidohydantoin being particularly preferred. Regardless of whether hydantoin or hydantoin derivative (s) is / are used, amounts of from 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred, from 0.05 to 1, 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% - each based on the total agent - most preferably.

In summary, cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which contain 0.02 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably 0.075 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 0, 25% by weight of hydantoin and / or hydantoin derivative (s), preferably 5-ureidohydantoin (allantoin)

contain.

Another group of very particular ingredients of the compositions of the invention are biochinones. In the agents according to the invention, suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s).

Ubiquinones are the most widely used and thus best studied biochinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are labeled as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3, etc. or as number of C atoms -5, U-10, U-15 and so on. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, eg. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans, Q-10 predominates. Ubiquinones serve the organisms as electron carriers in the respiratory chain. They are located in the mitochondria where they allow the cyclic oxidation and reduction of substrates of the citric acid cycle. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the ubiquinone of the formula where n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10. Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. They can be isolated from chloroplasts and play a role as redox substrates in photosynthesis in cyclic and noncyclic electron transport, reversibly converting into the corresponding hydroquinones (plastoquinol). Plastoschinone differ in the number n of the isoprene radicals and are designated accordingly, z. Eg PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

The or the biochinone (s) is (are) in the inventive compositions - by weight - in an amount of 0.0000005 to 2%, preferably in an amount of 0.000001 to 1% and in particular in an amount of 0 , 00001 to 0.5%.

Another particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are betaines. Under betaines are not to be understood Betaine with surface-active properties, as described in the chapter on surfactants or emulsifiers.

For the purposes of the present invention, a betaine means compounds which simultaneously contain both a grouping -NR ₃ ⁽⁺⁾ and a grouping -CR ₂ COO ^(") , analogously constructed sulfobetaines and compounds which have a grouping -NR ₃ ⁺ and a grouping -CH ₂ OH.This definition is based on the definition in Rompp ^'s Lexikon Chemie - CD-ROM Version 2.0, Stuttgart / New York, Georg Thieme Verlag 1999. In particular, the betaines according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those which Correspond to formula (AI). R ¹ R ² R ³ N ⁺ - (CR ⁴ R ⁵ ) _X - (CR ⁶ R ⁷ ) _y - (CR ⁸ R ⁹ ) _Z - Y ^" (AI)

R ¹ , R ² , and R ³ here independently of one another represent:

• hydrogen,

• a methyl radical,

• a C2 - C8 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical

R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁷ , R ⁸ and R ⁹ are here independently of one another:

• hydrogen,

• OR ¹⁰ ,

• -OCOR ¹¹ ,

A methyl radical which can carry a 1H-imidazolyl-4-substituent,

• a C ₂ -C 8 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, where R ¹⁰ is hydrogen, -CH ₃ or a C ₂ -C 30 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical and R ¹¹ is -CH ₃ or a C2 - C30 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, x, y and z are each independently an integer from 0 to 12, with the proviso that at least one of the parameters x, y or z is different from 0 and Y ^" represents COO ^" , SO ₃ ^" or a hydroxy group in combination with a physiologically acceptable anion.

For the purposes of the invention, betaines are also to be understood as meaning those substances in which the mentioned characteristic groups are present only in the case of the dissolved substance and within certain pH ranges of the solution.

Of course, all physiologically acceptable salts of the betaines according to the invention, in particular also the mixed salts of the betaines, can be used according to the invention. Mixed salts are solid solutions of various substances. For the generally accepted definition of mixed crystals as solid solutions, for example, refer to HR Christians, Fundamentals of General and Inorganic Chemie, Sauerlander and SaIIe, 5th edition, 1977, on page 245 and expressly incorporated by reference. Furthermore, the different types of mixed crystal formation, such as isomorphism, homeomorphism, heteromorphism, random mixed crystal formation also called double salt formation, mixed crystals with or without miscibility gap, etc., according to the definition of Hollemann - Wiberg, Lehrbuch der anorganischen Chemie, Walter de Gruyter, 81. - 90th edition 1976, Chapter VII, The chemical bond under cc) The mixed crystal formation described on page 114, according to the invention among the mixed crystals of the active compounds of the formula (I) according to the invention. This definition is also expressly referred to.

Among the mixed salts of the betaines, on the one hand, the inorganic mixed salts such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, hydroiodides, sulfates, sulfites, hydrogen sulfates, hydrogen sulfites, carbonates and bicarbonates, mono-, di-, triphosphates or mixtures of phosphates and mixtures of these mixed salts of the betaines according to the invention can be used , On the other hand, the mixed salts of the betaines according to the invention can be used with organic carboxylic acids. Suitable examples of such acids are, for example, formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , Elaidic, maleic, fumaric, muconic, citraconic, mesaconic, camphoric, benzoic, 4-hydroxybenzoic, o, m, p-phthalic, naphthoic, toluoic, hydratropic, atropic, salicylic, cinnamic, isonicotinic, nicotinic, bicarbamic, 4.4 '-Dicyano-6,6'-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1, 2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1, 2,4,6,7-naphthalenepentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid , Gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid.

It may furthermore be preferred to use in particular organic polyfunctional carboxylic acids which, in addition to at least one carboxy group, additionally have at least one hydroxyl group and / or at least one amino group. Examples of these organic carboxylic acids are glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, etc., which are attributable to the edible acids. Furthermore, amino acids such as histidine, arginine, lysine, citrulline, etc. are among the polyfunctional organic acids which can be used as mixed salts with the active compounds (I) according to the invention. According to the invention, it may be preferable to incorporate the mixed salts into the formulations in solid form. However, it is of course also possible to use the mixed salts in the form of their individual components.

The mixing ratio of the mixed salts according to the invention can be between 1: 50 and 50: 1, preferably between 10: 1 and 1:10, and very particularly preferably based on the respective molar masses of the individual components (betaine of the formula (I) / mixed salt-forming substance) between 3: 1 and 1: 3.

Examples of particularly suitable betaines of the formula (AI) according to the invention are: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, 3-O-lauroyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3-O-octanoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3 O-palmitoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, taurine, tauryl lysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithine, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine, betalain, 1, 1-dimethyl-proline, hercynin (Nα, Nα, Nα -trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), Ergothionein (thionein, 2-mercapto-Nα, Na, Na-trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate, and the compound N, N, N-trimethylglycine referred to in the literature as betaine. These mixed salts may be preferred according to the invention.

Carnitine, taurine, histidine, choline, betaine and their derivatives are preferably used. The compositions according to the invention may contain both a compound according to formula (A-I) and several, in particular two, compounds of formula (A-I).

The agents according to the invention contain the betaines in amounts of from 0.001 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. A content of 0.05 to 10 wt .-% is preferred. All types of isomers, such as diastereomers, enantiomers, isocyanate trans isomers, optical isomers, conformational isomers and racemates can be used according to the invention.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, L-carnitine, L-carnitine tartrate or taurine are used. The compositions according to the invention may contain both a compound according to formula (A-I) and several, in particular two, compounds of formula (A-I).

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain pharmacologically active substances to achieve certain effects, such as, for example, an anti-dandruff effect or effects against acne.

Examples of pharmacologically active substances are corticosteroids, β-blockers, estrogens, phytoestrogens, cyproterone acetate, vasodilating substances such as diazoxide, nifedipine and minoxidil, acetylsalicylic acid or salicylic acid.

These substances are contained in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition.

Finally, experimental findings show that the compositions according to the invention are particularly well suited to deposit perfume oils or perfumes on the skin and hair in an increased amount. At the same time the perfume oils and fragrances remain much longer on the skin or the hair adhere. This leads to an increased acceptance of such compositions in the consumer.

Another group of very particularly preferred ingredients of the compositions of the invention are perfumes. The excellent and completely surprising positive results of compositions containing the active compounds and perfumes according to the invention has already been described in detail above.

The term perfume means perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances. As perfume oils are called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (macis, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme, chamomile ), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, pines), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).

Furthermore, animal raw materials come into question, such as civet and Castoreum.

Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are ester type products, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are known e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethylacetate, linalylbenzoate, benzylformate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, cyclohexylsalicylate, floramate, melusate, jasmecyclate and benzylsalicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxane, to the aldehydes e.g. the linear alkanals of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones e.g. the ionones, ° <-symethylionone and methylcedryl ketone, the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol; the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balms such as limonene and pinene.

Preferably, however, mixtures of different fragrances are used, which together produce an attractive fragrance. Also essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as flavoring components, are suitable as perfume oils, eg sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably, bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, Cyclamenaldehyde, Linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, Indole, Hedione, Sandelice, Citrus oil, Tangerine oil, Orange blossom oil, Orange peel oil, Sandalwood oil, Neroliol allylamyl glycolate, Cyclovertal, Lavandin oil, Muscat sage oil, B-Damascone, Bourbon geranium oil, Cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E Super, fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeine gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllat, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures.

Further examples of fragrances which may be present in the compositions according to the invention are found, for example, in US Pat. In S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials, Vol. I and II, Montclair, NJ, 1969, Selbstverlag or K. Bauer, D. Garbe and H. Surburg, Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials, 3 ^rd . Ed., Wiley-VCH, Weinheim 1997.

In order to be perceptible, a fragrance must be volatile, with molecular weight also playing an important role in addition to the nature of the functional groups and the structure of the chemical compound. For example, most odorants have molecular weights up to about 200 daltons, while molecular weights of 300 daltons and above are more of an exception. Due to the different volatility of fragrances, the smell of a perfume or fragrance composed of several fragrances changes during evaporation, whereby the odor impressions in "top note", "middle note or body" As the smell perception is based to a large extent on the odor intensity, the top note of a perfume or fragrance consists not only of volatile compounds, while the base note for the most part from less volatile , ie adherent fragrances.

Adhesive-resistant fragrances which are advantageously usable in the context of the present invention are, for example, the essential oils such as angelica root oil, aniseed oil, Arnica blossom oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, Champacablütenöl, Edeltannenöl, Edeltannenzapfenapfen, Elemiöl, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce oil, galbanum oil, geranium oil, gingergrass oil , Guaiac wood oil, gurdy balm oil, helichrysum oil, ho oil, ginger oil, iris oil, cajeput oil, calamus oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanaga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine needle oil, copaϊva balsam oil, coriander oil, spearmint oil, cumin oil, cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, tangerine oil, lemon balm oil . Musk Grain Oil, Myrrh Oil, Clove Oil, Neroli Oil, Niaouli Oil, Olibanum Oil, Orange Oil, Origanum Oil, Palmarosa Oil, Patchouli Oil, Peru Balsam Oil, Petitgrain Oil, Pepper Oil, Peppermint Oil, Pimento Oil, Pine Oil, Rose Oil, Rosemary Oil, Sandalwood Oil, Celery Oil, Spik Oil, Star Aniseed Oil, Turpentine Oil, Thuja Oil, Thyme oil, verbena oil, vetiver oil, juniper berry oil, wormwood oil, wintergreen oil, ylang ylang oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon oil, citronella oil, lemon oil and cypress oil.

But the higher-boiling or solid fragrances of natural or synthetic origin can be used in the context of the present invention advantageously as adherent fragrances or fragrance mixtures, ie fragrances. These compounds include the following compounds and mixtures thereof: ambrettolide, amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, methyl anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerate, borneol, Bornyl acetate, bromostyrene, n-decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, heliotropin,

Heptincarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, hydroquinone di-methyl ether,

Hydroxycinnamaldehyde, Hydroxyzimtalcohol, Indole, Iron, Isoeugenol,

Isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole, jasmon, camphor, karvakrol, karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, cu-marine, p-methoxyacetophenone, methyl n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilate, p-methylacetophenone, methylchavikole, p-methylquinoline, methylnaphthyl ketone, methyl-n- nonyl acetaldehyde, methyl n-nonyl ketone, muscone, naphthol ethyl ether, naphthol methyl ether, nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonyl aldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octyl aldehyde, p-oxy acetophenone, pentadecanolide, phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyacetal, phenylacetic acid, pulegone , Safrol, salicylic acid isoamyl ester, salicylic acid methyl ester, salicylic acid hexyl ester, cyclohexyl salicylate, santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymene, thymol, undelactone, vaniline, veratrum aldehyde, cinnamic aldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, cinnamic acid, cinnamic acid ethyl ester, cinnamic acid benzyl ester.

Among the more volatile fragrances, which are advantageously used in the context of the present invention, include in particular the lower-boiling fragrances natural or synthetic origin, which may be used alone or in mixtures. Examples of more readily volatile fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, linalool, linayl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.

All of the aforementioned fragrances can be used alone or in a mixture according to the present invention with the advantages already mentioned.

If the boiling points of the individual fragrances are substantially below 300 ^° C., then a preferred embodiment of the invention is present, wherein preferably at least 50% of the fragrances contained have a boiling point below 300 ^° C., advantageously at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%. , in an even more advantageous manner at least 80%, in an extremely advantageous manner at least 90%, in particular even 100%.

Boiling points below 300 ° C are therefore advantageous because the fragrances would have too low a volatility at higher boiling points. However, in order to be able to "flow out" of the particle at least partially and to develop fragrance, a certain volatility of the fragrances is advantageous.

It has previously been observed that some unstable perfume ingredients are sometimes poorly compatible with carrier material and, upon incorporation into the carrier, at least partially decompose, especially if the carrier is a porous mineral carrier, such as clay, or zeolite, especially dehydrated and / or activated zeolite. Unstable fragrances for the purposes of this invention can be identified by incorporating a perfume composition comprising at least 6 fragrances into activated / dehydrated zeolite X and storing the resulting sample for 24 hours at room temperature. Then the fragrances are extracted with acetone and analyzed by gas chromatography to determine the stability. A fragrance is then considered to be unstable in the sense of this invention, if at least 50 wt .-%, preferably at least 65 wt .-%, advantageously at least 80 wt .-%, in particular at least 95 wt .-% of this perfume decomposed into degradation products and in the extraction could not be provided again.

Is in the inventive agent less than 15 wt .-%, preferably less than 8 wt .-%, advantageously less than 6 wt .-%, more preferably less than 3 wt .-%, of unstable perfume, based on the total Amount of perfume ad / absorbed in / on the particle, there is a preferred embodiment of the invention, wherein the unstable perfume in particular the group of allyl alcohol esters, esters of secondary alcohols, esters of tertiary alcohols, allylic ketones, condensation products of amines and aldehydes, Acetals, ketals and mixtures of the foregoing.

If the perfume adsorbed in / on the particle ad / at least 4, advantageously at least 5, in a further advantageous manner at least 6, more preferably at least 7, even more preferably at least 8, preferably at least 9, in particular at least Contains 10 different fragrances, so is a preferred embodiment of the invention.

When the logP value of the perfume components adsorbed in / on the particle ad / is substantially at least 2, preferably at least 3 or greater, so that at least 40%, advantageously at least 50%, more preferably at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, in particular 90% of the perfume components fulfill this log requirement, then a preferred embodiment of the invention is present.

The logP value is a measure of the hydrophobicity of the perfume components. It is the decadic logarithm of the partition coefficient between n-octanol and water. The octanol / water partition coefficient of a perfume ingredient is the ratio between its equilibrium concentrations in water and octanol. A perfume ingredient with higher partition coefficient P is more hydrophobic. The stated conditions for the logP are advantageous because it ensures that the fragrances can be better retained in the pores of the support material and also better on objects which are treated with the particles (for example, indirectly by treatment with a detergent formulation, which comprises the particles according to the invention) precipitate. The logP value of many perfume ingredients is given in the literature; For example, the Pomona 92 database, available from Daylight Chemical Information Systems, Inc. (Daylog CIS) of Irvine, California, contains many such values along with references to the original literature. The logP values can also be calculated, for example, with the "CLOG P" program of the aforementioned company Daylight CIS. For calculated logP values, one usually speaks of ClogP values Clog-P values should also be used for hydrophobicity estimation if there are no experimental logP values for certain perfume ingredients.

If desired, the perfume can also be combined with a perfume fixative. It is believed that perfume fixatives can slow the exhalation of higher volatile fractions of perfume.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the perfume which is adsorbed in / on the carrier material comprises a perfume fixative, preferably in the form of diethyl phthalates, musk (derivatives) and mixtures thereof, the fixative amount preferably being from 1 to 55% by weight. , Advantageously, 2 to 50 wt .-%, more preferably 10 to 45 wt .-%, in particular 20 to 40 wt .-% of the total amount of perfume.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the particles contain an agent which increases the viscosity of liquids, in particular perfume, preferably PEG (polyethylene glycol), advantageously having a molecular weight of from 400 to 2000, wherein the viscosity-increasing agent in a preferred manner in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, advantageously from 0.15 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt .-% , in particular from 0.25 to 3 wt .-%, based on the particles.

It has been found that the viscosity of liquids, especially perfume-raising agents, further contribute to the stabilization of the perfume in the particle when nonionic surfactant is present at the same time.

The viscosity-increasing agents are preferably polyethylene glycols (PEG for short) which can be described by the general formula I:

H- (O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _n -OH (I),

in the degree of polymerization n of about 5 to> 100,000, corresponding to molecular weights of 200 to 5,000,000 gmol-1, may vary. The products with molecular weights below 25,000 g / mol are referred to as actual polyethylene glycols, while higher molecular weight products are often referred to in the literature as polyethylene oxides (PEOX for short). The polyethylene glycols preferably used may have a linear or branched structure, with particular preference being given to linear polyethylene glycols and end-capped.

The particularly preferred polyethylene glycols include those having molecular weights between 400 and 2000. It can be used in particular also polyethylene glycols, which are present in a liquid state at room temperature and a pressure of 1 bar; Here is mainly of polyethylene glycol with a molecular weight of 200, 400 and 600 the speech.

The perfumes are generally added in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total composition, of the total composition. The perfumes may be added to the compositions in liquid form, neat or diluted with a solvent for perfuming. Suitable solvents for this purpose are, for. For example, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, propylene glycol, 1, 2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethyl phthalate, triethyl citrate, isopropyl myristate, etc.

Furthermore, the perfumes for the compositions of the present invention may be adsorbed to a carrier which provides both a fine distribution of the fragrances in the product and a controlled release in use. Such carriers can be porous inorganic materials such as light sulfate, silica gels, zeolites, gypsum, clays, clay granules, aerated concrete, etc., or organic materials such as woods and cellulosic based materials.

The perfume oils for the compositions according to the invention can also be microencapsulated, spray-dried, present as inclusion complexes or as extruded products and added in this form to the compositions to be perfumed.

Optionally, the properties of the perfume oils modified in this way can be further optimized by so-called "coating" with suitable materials with a view to a more targeted release of fragrance, for which purpose preferably wax-like plastics, such as, for example, As polyvinyl alcohol can be used.

The consumer, in the perception of the cosmetic compositions, in particular caused by a aesthetically appealing packaging, optionally in conjunction with aromatic fragrances, may associate the composition of the invention with a stimulant such as confectionery or beverages. By this association, in particular in children, oral ingestion or swallowing of the cosmetic composition can not be ruled out in principle. In a preferred embodiment, therefore, the compositions according to the invention contain a bitter substance in order to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion. There are According to the invention, bitter substances which are soluble in water at 20 ^° C. to at least 5 g / l are preferred.

With regard to an undesirable interaction with optionally contained in the cosmetic compositions fragrance components, in particular a change in perceived by the consumer fragrance, the ionogenic bitter substances have proved the nonionic superior, lonogenic bittering agents, preferably consisting of organic (s) cation (s) and organic (s) Anion (s), are therefore preferred for the inventive preparations.

Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are outstandingly suitable as bitter substances. One such compound is ammonium benzoate which is commercially available for example under the trademarks ^® Bitrex ^® and available Indigestin benzyldiethyl ((2,6-Xylylcarbamoyl) methyl). This compound is also known by the name Denatonium Benzoate.

The bittering agent is contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.0005 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the molding. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight.

Advantageous in the context of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) can be used as an ingredient in the active ingredient complex (A). Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.

One use of the short-chain carboxylic acids is the adjustment of the pH of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. The inventive In combination with a short-chain carboxylic acid composition leads to improved skin smoothness and improved skin texture and a smoothed hair structure.

In addition to the short-chain carboxylic acids of the invention listed above by way of example, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention. Examples of such salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, which in the context of the present application also includes the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts. In addition, however, neutralized acids can also be used with alkaline amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine. The sodium, potassium, ammonium and arginine salts are preferred salts. Furthermore, for reasons of formulation it may be preferable to select the carboxylic acid as active ingredient from the water-soluble representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

The very particularly preferred short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention include the hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids.

Examples of particularly suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids are glycolic acid, glyceric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Of course, the teaching according to the invention also includes that these acids are used in the form of mixed salts, for example with amino acids. This may be preferred according to the invention. Examples of amino acids which can be used as mixed salts with these hydroxycarboxylic acids are carnitine, taurine, isidine, lysine, arginine and ornithine. A typical representative of the mixed salts according to the invention is, for example, carnitine tartrate.

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as eis - trans - isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers. According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several active substances of this group.

The short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton. The substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention are, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkenyl, Aminomethyl, C 2 -C 8 -aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

Examples of carboxylic acids according to the invention include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, Toluoylsäure, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, Bicarbaminsäure, 4,4 ^'-Dicyano-6, 6 ^' -binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1, 2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1, 2,4,6,7-naphthalenepentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group formed by compounds of general formula (NI),

in the Z is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI), which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.

Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) are known in the literature.

The dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization. Usually one will assume a polyunsaturated fatty acid as the dicarboxylic acid component. Preferred is the linoleic acid obtainable from natural fats and oils. As the monocarboxylic acid component, in particular, acrylic acid, but also e.g. Methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferred. Normally, in the case of reactions according to Diels-Alder, mixtures of isomers are formed in which one component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can be used according to the invention as well as the pure compounds.

In addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids according to formula (N-I), those dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds according to formula (NI) by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally from these compounds by addition of a Molecule water are formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring. The dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ^® ^® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).

In addition to the short-chain carboxylic acids of the invention listed above by way of example, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention. Examples of such salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, which in the context of the present application also includes the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts. However, in the context of the invention, neutralized acids can very particularly preferably be used with alkaline-reacting amino acids, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine. Furthermore, it may be preferred for formulation reasons to select the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention to use hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids together in the compositions. It has been found that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® the EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.

According to the invention, it is very particularly preferred to use the so-called edible acids as short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention.

These active compounds according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1% by weight. up to 5% by weight.

A particularly diverse and interesting cosmetic active ingredient group are polyhydroxy compounds. The inventive use of

Polyhydroxy compounds as active ingredient with the other components of the invention may therefore be particularly preferred. Under polyhydroxy compounds to understand organic compounds having at least two hydroxyl groups.

In particular, for the purposes of the present invention, this is to be understood as meaning:

Polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups, such as, for example, trimethylolpropane,

Ethoxylates and / or propoxylates with 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide of the aforementioned polyols,

Carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugars and their salts, in particular monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary and -OH and -NH protecting groups known in the literature, such as, for example, the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters,

These are also protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, as well as protected by customary and known in the literature -OH and -NH - protecting groups, such as the triflate, the trimethylsilyl or acyl groups, and further - aminodeoxysugars, deoxysugars in the form of methyl ethers and as phosphate esters, Very particular preference is given here to monosaccharides having 3 to 8 C atoms, such as, for example, trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH - protecting groups, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters.

Also preferred are oligosaccharides having up to 50 monomer units, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate, trimethylsilyl or acyl groups and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters.

Examples of the polyols according to the invention include sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xyNt, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose , Altrose, gulose, idose, talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose, melibiose, gestiobiose, rutinose, raffinose and cellotriose , Furthermore, reference is made to the relevant specialist literature such as Beyer-Walter, textbook of organic chemistry, S. Hirzel Verlag Stuttgart, 19th edition, section III, pages 393 and following.

Preferred polyhydroxy compounds are sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, threitol, erythrose, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose, fructose, sorbose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose and cellobiose , Particular preference is given to using glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, sucrose, lactose, maltose and cellobiose. However, the use of glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, sucrose, lactose, maltose or cellobiose is very particularly preferred In a particularly preferred embodiment, the active ingredient is at least one polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups. Among these compounds, those having 2 to 12 OH groups, and especially those having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 OH groups are preferred.

Polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are, for example, glycol (CH ₂ (OH) CH ₂ OH) and other 1, 2-diols such as H- (CH ₂ ) _n -CH (OH) CH ₂ OH where n = 1, 2, 3 , 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Also 1,3-diols such as H- (CH ₂ ), - CH (OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ OH with n = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 , 20 are used according to the invention. The (n, n + 1) or (n, n + 2) diols with non-terminal OH groups can also be used.

Important representatives of polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are also the polyethylene and polypropylene glycols.

Among the polyhydroxy compounds having 3 OH groups, glycerin is of outstanding importance.

In summary, compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the polyhydroxy compound is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, glucose, fructose, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, XyNt and their mixtures.

Regardless of the type of polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups used, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the composition, contain 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 3.5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 2.5% by weight of polyhydroxy compound (s).

With particular preference, the agents according to the invention may additionally comprise polyethylene glycol ethers of the formula (IV)

H (CH ₂ ) _k (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OH (IV) in which k is a number between 1 and 18, with particular preference given to the values 0, 10, 12, 16 and 18 and n is a number between 2 and 20 with particular preference given to the values 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 , 10, 12 and 14 means. Preferred among these are the alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentahylene glycol, hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol and tetradecaethylene glycol, and the alkyl derivatives of dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol, of pentapropylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol, decapropylene glycol, dodecapropylene glycol and tetradecapropylene glycol, of which the methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives are preferred.

It has been found that mixtures of "short chain" polyalkylene glycol ethers with such "long chain" polyalkylene glycol ethers have advantages. Particular preference is given to mixtures of polyalkylene glycol ethers having a degree of oligomerization of 5 or less with polyalkylene glycol ethers having a degree of oligomerization of 7 or more Preferred mixtures of alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, Triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentahydylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol or pentapropylene glycol with alkyl derivatives of hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol , the decapropylene glycol, the dodecapropylene glycol or the tetradecapropyolene glycol, in both cases the n-octyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives being preferred , Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV a) of the formula (IV) in which n is the number 2, 3, 4 or 5 and at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV b) of the formula (IV) in which n represents the numbers 10, 12, 14 or 16, wherein the weight ratio (IV b) to (IV a) 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 7.5: 1 to 1: 5 and in particular 5 : 1 to 1: 1.

Very particularly preferred polyols of the present invention are polyols having 2 to 12 C atoms in the molecular skeleton. These polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or unsaturated. The hydroxyl groups are very particularly preferably terminally adjacent or terminally separated from one another by the remainder of the chain. Examples of these polyols are: glycol, polyethylene glycol up to a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, neopentyl glycol, partial glycerol ethers having a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, 1, 2-butanediol , 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2,3-butanetriol, 1, 2,4-butanetriol, pentanediols, for example 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1, 2- Hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1,4-cyclohexanediol, 1,2-cyclohexanediol, heptanediols, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,7-heptanediol, octanediols, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, octadienols, decadienols, dodecanediols, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 12-dodecanediol, 1, 12-dodecanediol with 10 moles of EO, dodecadienols.

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as eis - trans - isomers, diastereomers, epimers, anomers and chiral isomers.

According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several polyhydroxy compounds.

The polyhydroxy compounds according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.01% by weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1% by weight. up to 10% by weight. Other optional ingredients that can be used in cosmetic compositions are preservatives. Preservatives used are the substance classes listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the European Cosmetics Regulation. Particularly preferred is mild preservation, ideally without the addition of typical preservatives. In general, the following substances and their mixtures are used:

aromatic alcohols, such as, for example, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenoxyisopropanol,

Aldehydes such as formaldehyde solution and paraformaldehyde, glutaraldehyde

Parabens, for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben

1, 2-alkanediols having 5 to 22 carbon atoms in the carbon chain, such as 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-heptanediol, 1, 2-decanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 2- hexadecanediol,

Formaldehyde-releasing compounds such as DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea

Halogenated compounds such as isothiazolinones such as methylchloroisothiazolinone / methylisothiazolinone, triclosan, triclocarban, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, chlorhexidine digluconate and chlorhexidine acetate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, methyldibromoglutaronitrile,

Inorganic compounds such as sulfites, boric acid and borates, bisulfites,

Cationic substances such as quaternium-15, benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, polyaminopropyl biguanide,

Organic acids and their physiologically acceptable salts such as citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, dehydroacetic acid Active agents with additional effects such as zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamine,

Antioxidants such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), propyl gallate, t-butylhydroquinone,

Complexing agents such as EDTA and its derivatives, HEDTA and its derivatives, Etidronic Acid and its salts,

As well as mixtures of the substances listed above.

In a further particularly preferred type of the compositions according to the invention, the water activity in the compositions according to the invention can also be reduced to the extent that growth of microorganisms can no longer take place. In particular, glycerol and sorbitol are used for this purpose.

The compositions according to the invention contribute to the preservation being possible in an outstanding manner with the mild preservative additives. But the complete abandonment of preservatives is possible and preferred according to the invention.

The amounts of preservative are from 0 to 5 wt.%, Preferably from 0 to 2 wt.%, Particularly preferably from 0 to 1 wt.% And most preferably from 0 to 0.8 wt.% Based on the total amount of the composition ,

Further optional ingredients of the compositions of the invention are Deowirkstoffe. Deodorants can not only be used in deodorants to prevent underarm sweating. They can also be used in skin care products to influence sweat on other skin areas. This includes, for example, the scalp.

The inventive compositions significantly increase analytically detectable the deposition of deodorant substances on the skin and hair. In the panel test Among other things, this is noticeable through a significantly prolonged effect.

As Deowirkstoffe esterase inhibitors can be added. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, COGNIS). The substances inhibit the enzyme activity and thereby reduce odors. The cleavage of the citric acid ester is likely to release the free acid, which lowers the pH on the skin to the extent that it inhibits the enzymes. Further substances which are suitable as esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and their esters, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate,

Hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate. Antibacterial agents that affect the bacterial flora and kill sweat-degrading bacteria or inhibit their growth may also be included in the stick formulations. Examples of these are chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. 5-chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophenoxy) phenol, which is marketed under the trade name Irgasan® by Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH, has also proved to be particularly effective.

The pH of the preparations according to the invention can in principle be between 2 and 11. The pH is selected and adjusted very selectively depending on the purpose and use of the composition according to the invention. For colorants, for example, it is preferably between 5 and 11, values of 6 to 10 being particularly preferred. For cleaning compositions it is for example between 4 and 7.5, preferably between 4 and 6.

To adjust this pH, virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine. Usually, acids are used as acids. By-acids are understood to mean those acids which are absorbed as part of the usual food intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Eat acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred.

It has furthermore been found that the action of the active ingredient according to the invention in the compositions according to the invention can be further increased in combination with substances which contain primary or secondary amino groups. Examples of such amino compounds include ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol and basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine or histidine. Of course, these amines can also be used in the form of the corresponding salts with inorganic and / or organic acids, such as, for example, ammonium carbonate, ammonium citrate, ammonium oxalate, ammonium tartrate or lysine hydrochloride. The amines are used together with the active compound according to the invention in ratios of from 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 3, and very particularly preferably in stoichiometric amounts.

Protic solvents, such as, for example, water, and alcohols can also be present in the compositions according to the invention. The alcohols used are all physiologically unsuitable alcohols, for example methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, glycol, glycerol and mixtures thereof with one another. The proportion of protic solvents in each case complements the composition according to the invention to 100 parts by weight. At least 30% by weight of protic solvents, particularly preferably at least 50% by weight and very particularly preferably at least 75% by weight, and most preferably at least 85% by weight, protic solvents are preferably present in the cosmetic compositions.

Furthermore, in a very particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the UV filters (I) can be used. The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any structure or physical properties general restrictions. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsilicylate (homosalates ), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^®, ^® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium - and triethanolamine (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methane-sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) Methoxydibenzoylmethane propan-1, 3-dione (butyl; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020 ), α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-methylaminobenzoic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan OS ^®, Uvinul ^® O18), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan E 1000 ^®), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-Methylbenzyli- dene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 '-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl ] benzyl} -acrylamids, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (none benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400) 1, 1 '-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic benzoic acid menthyl (Menthyl Anthranilate; Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydropyran droxybenzophenon (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2. 1] hept-1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2 Oxoborn-3-ylidene) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2 , 4,6-Tri- anilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers d it is N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

Furthermore, it has been found that structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds that differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. For the purposes of the invention, water-insoluble UV filters are those which dissolve in water at not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, at 20 ^° C. Furthermore, these compounds should be dissolved in common cosmetic oil components at room temperature. at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-% be soluble). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U - Q.

The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is protected by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function, is replaced. Compounds from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example, substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Structural parts U, which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide, are preferred according to the invention.

The structural parts U can in principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be in both the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred. Furthermore, the structural part U, also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

The structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. Preferably, however, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _X -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^" , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently of one another ₄ alkyl groups, R ³ is a

or a benzyl group and X ^" for a physiologically acceptable anion In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ^® UV 283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred. The UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions according to the invention usually in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabicum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, celulose derivatives, e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. As polyvinyl alcohol, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example, soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,

Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

- symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether,

fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,

Phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,

quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate, anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole,

- active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol, cholesterol,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid, iminodisuccinic acid and its salts, Etidronic acid and its salts and phosphonic acids, Swelling and penetrating agents such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, pigments,

Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,

Antioxidants.

With regard to further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. the monograph by K. H. Schrader referenced.

The compositions according to the invention are not subject to any restrictions with regard to their formulation form and can be formulated as emulsion, cream, solution, gel or mousse.

A second object of the invention is a method for cleansing and care of skin and hair, in which the composition according to the invention applied to the skin and / or hair, distributed and after a residence time in the range of a few seconds to 45 minutes with water again is rinsed out.

A third object of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for the cleansing and care of the skin and hair, in particular for the maintenance of the moisture of the skin and for the reduction of keratolysis and the retardation of re-soiling of the skin, in particular the dry skin.

The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail, without restricting it to it - all weight data relate to% by weight of active substance:

As packages for the cosmetic compositions of the present invention, in principle all known to those skilled packaging used become. In particular, these are crucibles, tubes, bottles, sachets. In this case, different embodiments with respect to the shape and the color are possible. A transparent part of the packaging is also possible to emphasize the aesthetic appearance.

Examples and proofs of effect

All quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight.

Examples

1st shower gel

2. Deodorant roll-on

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

Methocel ^® E4M Premium hydroxypropyl hydroxypropyl 0.8

EP (DOW) Methylcellulose Methylcellulose

Water 49.2

Hydagen HCMF ^® Chitosan Chitosan 0.2

(Cognis)

Glycolic acid (Merk) Glycolic acid glycolic acid 0.08

Water ad 100

Ethanol 25.0

Champagne extract 0,5

CETIOL HE ^® (Cognis) polyol fatty acid esters Glyceryl PEG -7 3.0

Cocoate

3. Deodorant pump spray

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Declaration Weight%

Plantacare® ^® 818 UP C8-C16 alkyl oligoglucoside Coco glucoside 4.0

Ethanol 40.0

HYDAGEN ^® CAT triethyl citrate triethyl citrate 2.0

Water ad 100

Champagne Extract 3.0

Hydagen ^® DCMF Chitosan Chitosan 0.1

Glycolic acid (Merk.) Glycolic acid 0.04 pH 4.0 4. After Shave cream

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Declaration Weight%

EMULGADE ^® SE Mixture of Glyceryl Stearate (and) 4.0

(Cognis) Partial Glycerides, Ceteareth-20 (and)

Fatty alcohols, Ceteareth-12 (and)

Wax esters and cetearyl alcohol ethoxylated (and) cetyl palmitates

fatty alcohols

LANETTE ^® 0 (Cognis) Cetearyl Alcohol Cetylstearylalkohol 1, 0

MYRITOL ^® 312 caprylic / caprylic / capric 3.0

(Cognis) Capric Acid Triglyceride Triglycerides

CETIOL ^® PGL (Cognis) hexyldecanol (and) 7.0

Hexyldecyl laurate

DC 190 ^® (Dow Dimethicone 0.5

Corning)

Gluadin ^® AGP partial hydrolyzate of HHyyddrroollyyzzeedd 'W Whheeaatt 00, 55

(Cognis) Wheat PProotrope

Allantoin 00,, 11

Panthenol (50 ⁽ %) 00,, 55

Water aadd 110000

Champagne Extract 33,, 00

CETIOL ^® PGL HHeexxyyllddeeccaannooll ((aanndd)) 11 ,, 00

(Cognis) HHexxyyllddeeccyyll LLaauurraattee

KOH, 20% PPoottaassiiuumm HHydrhydroxxiiddee 00,, 55

HYDAGEN ^® B BBiissaabboollooll 00,, 22

(Cognis)

Ethanol 10.0 5. Moisturizer with Vitamin E

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Declaration Weight%

EMULGADE ^® PL 68/50 Mixture of Cetearyl Glucoside 5.0

Alkyl polyglycoside and (and) cetearyl alcohol

Cetylstearylalkohol

LANETTE ^® E Powder Sodium Cetylstearyl Sulfate Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 0.25 (Cognis)

CUTINA ^® GMS Glycerol Monostearate Glyceryl Stearate 2.0

(Cognis)

^® 312 MYRITOL caprylic / caprylic / capric 5.0

(Cognis) Capric Acid Triglyceride Triglycerides

CETIOL ^® LC (Cognis) caprylic / Coco-Caprylate / caprate 5.0

Capric acid esters of saturated

Fatty alcohols C 12 - C

18

EUTANOL ^® G 16 2-hexyldecanol Hexyldecanol 2.0

(Cognis) (Guerbet Alcohol)

COPH EROL ^® F 1300 RRR (α) Tocopherol Tocopherol 1, 0

(Cognis)

Wacker Silicone Oil AK Dimethicone 0,5

350 (Wacker)

Champagne Extract 1, 5

Glycerin 86% 3.0

D-panthenol USP 0.5

Water ad 100

Viscosity (mPas), Brook.RVF, 23 ° C, SpTE, 4 rpm, 150000 with Helipath 6. Rich Night Care Ingredient Chem. Designation INCI - Description Wt.%

EMULGADE ^® PL 68/50 Mixture of Cetearyl Glucoside 3.0

(Cognis) alkyl polyglycoside and

Cetylstearylalkohol

LANETTE ^® O (Cognis) Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 Cetyl stearyl alcohol

CETIOL J ^® 600 (Cognis) Liquid wax Sesterheim Oleyl Erucate 4.0

CETIOL ^® V (Cognis) oleate Decyl Oleate 4.0

CETIOL ^® OE (Cognis) Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl Ether 4.0

Myritol ^® 318 (Cognis) caprylic / Caprylic / Capric 3.5

Capric acid triglyceride triglycerides

Baysilon ^® M 350 (Bayer) Dimethicone 0.5 Copherol F ^® 130C RRR (α) Tocopherol Tocopherol 1, 0 (Cognis) water ad 100 Glycerin 86% 3.0 Carbopol ^® 981 at 2% Carbomer 10.0 KOH 20 0.3% LIPOCUTIN ^® (Cognis) Aqua (and) lecithin 5.0

(and) cholesterol (and)

Decetyl phosphates

Champagne Extract 2.0

Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, SpTE, 4 rpm, with Helipath 137500

7. General purpose cream

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

DEHYMULS ^® PGPH polyglycerol poly-12 Polyglycerylpoly-12 4.5

(Cognis) hydroxystearate hydroxystearate

MYRITO L ^® 331 (Cognis) 5.0 Cocoglycerides

CETIOL ^® OE (Cognis) Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl Ether 5.0

Champagne Extract 1, 0

Zinc Stearate (Bärlocher) Zincstearate 1, 0

Glycerin (86%) 5.0

MgSO _4. 7H ₂ O 0.5

Water ad 100

Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle TE, 4

Upm, with Helipath about 200000

8. Rich W / O cream

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

DEHYMULS ^® PGPH polyglycerol poly-12 Polyglycerylpoly-12 3.0

(Cognis) hydroxystearate hydroxystearate

LAM E FORM ^® TGI Triglycerindiisostearat Polyglyceryl-3 3.0

(Cognis) diisostearate

Beeswax 8100 (beeswax Cera Alba 3.0

Kahl & Co.)

Zincum ^® N 29 (Fa. Zinc stearate Zinc Stearate 1, 0

Baerlocher)

CETIOL OE ^® ι [Cognis) Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl Ether 3.0

CETIOL ^® LC (Cognis) caprylic / Caprinsäureester Coco 6.0 of saturated caprylate / caprate

Fatty alcohols C 12 - C 18

Myritol ^® 312 (Cognis) caprylic / Caprylic / Capric 8.0

Capric acid triglyceride triglycerides

Almond OiI almond oil Almond OiI 8,0

Champagne Extract 1, 0

Copherol ^® F 1300 RRR (α) Tocopherol Tocopherol 1, 0

(Cognis)

Glycerin 5.0

MgSO ₄ x 7H ₂ O 1, 0

Water ad 100

Viscosity (mPas) / Brookfield, RVF, 23 ° C, spindle TE, 4

Upm, with Helipath 150000 9. Naturally sounding day cream

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

EMULGADE ^® SE Mixture of Partial Glycerides, Glyceryl Stearate (and) 6.0

(Cognis) fatty alcohols, wax esters ceteareth-20 (and) and ethoxylated ceteareth-12 (and)

Fatty alcohols Cetearyl Alcohol

(and) Cetyl Palmitate CUTINA ^® MD (Cognis) mixture of mono- and Glyceryl Stearate 2.0

Diglycerides of palmitin and

stearic acid

CETIOL ^® MM (Cognis) myristyl myristate Myristyl Myristate 1, 0

^® 312 MYRITOL caprylic / capric caprylic / capric 5.0

(Cognis) triglycerides

CETIOL SN ^® (Cognis) Cetearyl Isononanoate 5.0 esters of a branched

Fatty acid with saturated

Fatty alcohols C 16 - C 18 ^® CETIOL OE (Cognis) Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl Ether 5.0 Grape Seed OiI Grape Seed OiI 0.5

Copherol ^® 1250 RRR (α) tocopheryl acetate Tocopheryl Acetate 1, 0

(Cognis)

Champagne extract 2.0 Eusolex ^® 8020 (Merck) 4 Isopropyl 1, 0 dibenzoylmethane

Vitamin A paimitat 0.2

Titanium dioxide 1, 0

Talcum 1, 0

Glycerin 86% 5.0

Water ad 100

KOH, 20% Potasium Hydroxide 0.3 10. Lipstick

. Ingredient Chemical name INCI - name% MYRITOL ^® 318 (Cognis) caprylic / caprylic / capric 14.0

Capric acid triglyceride triglycerides

Myritol ^® PC (Cognis) Propylene glycol octanoate / decanoate 6.0 Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate EUTANOL G ^® (Cognis) 2-Octyldodecanol 17.0 Octyldodecanol

(Guerbet alcohol)

Candelilla wax Candelilla cera 7.0

Carnauba wax Carnauba cera 5.5

Beeswax 8100 (Kahl) Cera alba 6.5

GENEROL ^® 122 N Refined Soybean Soybean (Glycine Soya) 2.5

(Cognis) Sterol

Monomuls 90 ^® L 12 Glyceryl Laurate 3.0 Distilled molecular

(Cognis) lauric acid monoglyceride

DEHYMULS ^® PGPH polyglycerol poly-12 Polyglyceryl-2 4.0

(Cognis) hydroxystearate dipolyhydroxystearates

Castor oil Ricinus communis 18,0

Champagne Extract 1, 0

Color pigments 2.0

Hydagen CMF Chitosan ^® solution Chitosan Glycolate 10.0

(Cognis)

COPH EROL ^® F 1300 RRR (α) Tocopherol Tocopherol 2.0

(Cognis) 1 1. Coldwell fixation Ingredient Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

DEHYTON ^® K (Cognis) Genuine Betaine. Cocamidopropyl 6.0

Fatty acid amide derivative with

Betaine betaine structure (about 32%)

N UTRI LAN ^® H Protein Partial Hydrolyzate (approximately Hydrolyzed Collagen 5.0 (Cognis) 36%) LAMEQUAT ^® L Cationized Laurdimonium 3.0 (Cognis) Protein Hydrolyzate (approximately 36%) Hydroxypropyl

Hydrolyzed collagen

Hydrogen peroxide 7.5

35%

Keltrol T (1% swelling) Xanthan gum 15.0

Water ad 100

Champagne Extract 1, 0

pH 3.5

12. Cold-wave fixation, emulsion-like Component Chemical name INCI - Description% by weight

DEHYQUART ^® C 4046 Mixture of Esterquat, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) 3.0

Fatty Alcohol and Dipalmitoylethyl (Cognis) Nonionic Emulsifier Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Ceteareth-20

Water ad 100

TURPINAL ^® SL (Cognis) Etidronic Acid 0.3

Hydrogen Peroxides (35%) Hydrogen Peroxides 7.5

PLANTACARE ^® 2000 UP C 8 - C 16 decyl glucosides 1, 0

(Cognis) fatty alcohol glycoside

Champagne extract 0,5 pH 2.7

Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVT, 23 ° C, SpTC, 10 rpm 3600

13. sprayable hair conditioner, leave-on component Chem. Designation INCI - description weight%

Monomuls ^® 60-35 C Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Hydrogenated Palm 1, 24 (Cognis) Glycerides

Eumulgin ^® B 1 Polyoxyethylene-12-Ceteareth-12 2.76 (Cognis) cetyl stearyl alcohol

CETIOL ^® S (Cognis) hydrocarbon Dioctylcyclohexane 9.0 CETIOL ^® OE (Cognis) Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl Ether 9.0 Dow Corning DC 345 'D Cyclomethicone 2.0 (Dow Corning) 2.0 champagne extract carnitine tartrate 0.5 caffeine 0.5 water ad 100 Gluadin ^® WQ (Cognis) Cationized Laurdimonium 2.85

Wheat Protein Hydrolyzate Hydroxypropyl (about 31%) Hydrolyzed Wheat

protein

Plantacare ^® 2000 UP C 8 - C 16 Decyl Glucoside 1, 00 (Cognis) Fettalkoholglycosid (ca.

50%)

14. Leave-on hair cure

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

DEHYQUART ^® F 75 Mixture of esterquat distearoylethyl 0.7

(Cognis) and fatty alcohol hydroxyethylmonium

Methosulfates (and)

Cetearyl Alcohol

DEHYMULS ^® PGPH polyglycerol poly-12 Polyglyceryl-2 1, 0

(Cognis) hydroxystearate dipolyhydroxystearates

LANETTE ^® O (Cognis) Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0 Cetyl stearyl alcohol

EUTANOL G ^® (Cognis) 2-Octyldodecanol 0.2 Octyldodecanol

(Guerbet alcohol)

CETIOL J ^® 600 (Cognis) Liquid wax Sesterheim Oleyl Erucate 0.1

Plantacare ^® 1200 C 12 - C 16 Lauryl Glucoside 2.5

UP (Cognis) fatty alcohol glycoside (ca.

50%)

Pantolactone 1, 0

Champagne Extract 4.0

Carnitine tartrate 2.0

Taurine 1, 0

Ecchinacea Extract 1, 0

Caffeine 2.0

Water ad 100

Gluadin ^® W 40 partial hydrolyzate of Hydrolyzed Wheat 2.0

(Cognis) wheat (about 40%) protein

Panthenol (50%) 0.7

pH 4

Viscosity (mPas) / Brookfield, RVF 23 ° C, spindle 5, 10 rpm 6800 Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

Sepigel ^® 305 (Seppic) Polyacrylamide (and) 3.0

C13-14 isoparaffin (and)

Laureth-7

COMPERLAN ^® KD Coconut fatty acid diethanol cocamide DEA 2.0

(Cognis) amid

Pantolactone 3.0

Champagne Extract 2.0

Carnitine tartrate 2.0

Taurine 1, 0

Caffeine 1, 0

Echinacea Extract 2.0

Water ad 100

Plantacare ^® 1200 UP C 12 - C 16 Lauryl Glucoside 0.5

(Cognis) fatty alcohol glycoside (ca.

50%)

CETIOL J ^® 600 (Cognis) Liquid wax Sesterheim Oleyl Erucate 0.5

Copherol ^® 1250 RRR (α) - Tocopherol 0.2

(Cognis) tocopheryl acetate

Gluadin® ^® ALMOND partial hydrolyzate of Hydrolyzed Sweet 3.0

(Cognis) Almonds (about 22%) Almond protein

Gluadin® ^® WQ (Cognis) cationised Laurdimonium 0.8

Wheat protein hydrolyzate hydroxypropyl

(about 31%) Hydrolyzed Wheat

protein

Ethanol 10.0

pH 7

Viscosity (mPas) / Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 6700 16. Hair conditioner

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

DEHYQUART ^® C 4046 Mixture of esterquat, cetearyl alcohol (and) 4.0 (Cognis) fatty alcohol and dipalmitoylethyl nonionic emulsifier hydroxyethylmonium

Methosulfates (and)

Ceteareth20

CETIOL SN ^® (Cognis) Cetearyl Isononanoate esters of a branched 1, 0

Fatty acid with saturated fatty alcohols C 16 - C 18

Gluadin® ^® ALMOND partial hydrolyzate of Hydrolyzed Sweet 2.1

(Cognis) Almonds (about 22%) Almond protein

Champagne Extract 1, 5

Water ad 100

pH 3.5

Viscosity (mPas) / Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 4000

17th hair cure

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

Dehyquart ^® L 80 (Cognis) mixture of ester quat Dicocoylethyl 0.9 and propylene glycol (about Hydroxyethylmonium

75%) Methosulfates (and)

Propylene glycol

LANETTE ^® O (Cognis) Cetearyl Alcohol 3.5 Cetyl stearyl alcohol

Monomuls ^® 60-35 C Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Hydrogenated Palm 1, 0

(Cognis) Glycerides

EU MULGIN ^® B 2 polyoxyethylene-20 Ceteareth-20 0.8

(Cognis) cetylstearyl alcohol

COSMEDIA ^® GUAR C Guarhydroxypropyl- hydroxypropyl guar 0.3

261 (Cognis) trimethyl-ammonium trimonium chlorides

chloride

Champagne extract 2,0 water ad 100

pH 3.5

18th hair mask

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

DEHYQUART ^® 75 mixture of 3.0 Distearoylethyl

(Cognis) Esterquat and hydroxyethylmonium

Fatty alcohol methosulfate (and)

Cetearyl Alcohol

LANETTE ^® 0 (Cognis) Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 Cetyl stearyl alcohol

CUTINA ^® GMS (Cognis) glycerin monostearate Glyceryl Stearate 1, 0

EU MULGIN ^® B 2 polyoxyethylene-20-Ceteareth-20 1, 5

(Cognis) cetylstearyl alcohol

Champagne Extract 2.0

Nutrilan® ^® KERATIN W partial hydrolyzate of Hydrolyzed Keratin 5.0

(Cognis) Keratin (about 20%)

Panthenol 0.8

Aloe Vera Gel 2.0

Water ad 100

pH 3 - 4

19. Intensive hair cure

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

DEHYQUART ^® L 80 mixture of esterquat dicocoylethyl 2,5

(Cognis) and Propylene Glycol (about hydroxyethylmonium

75%) Methosulfates (and)

Propylene glycol

CUTINA GMS ^® (Cognis) glycerin monostearate 0.5 Glyceryl Stearate

LANETTE ^® O (Cognis) Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 Cetyl stearyl alcohol

Hydagen ^® HSP Trimethylolpropane- 0.5

(Cognis) hydroxymethyl stearate

ether

Champagne Extract 3.0

LAM ESO ^FT® PO 65 Mixture of Coco-Glucoside (and) 2.5

Alkylpolyglycoside and

(Cognis) Glyceryl Oleate

Water ad 100

pH 3.5

Viscosity (mPas), Brook.RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 4400

20. hair tip flow

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

HYDAGEN ^® HCMF chitosan powder chitosan 0.4

(Cognis)

Glycolic acid (Merck) Glycolic acid 0.2

Glycerin 86% 55.0

Tylose ^® H 100.000 YP 0.4

(Maximum)

Champagne Extract 3.0

Plantacare ^® 818 UP 2.0

Gluadin ^® R (Cognis) partial hydrolyzate of Hydrolyzed Rice Protein 4.0

Rice (about 27%) (and) Hydrolyzed

Vegetable protein

Panthenol 50% 1, 0

Ethanol 10.0

Water ad 100

pH 4.5

21. Leave-on hair milk

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

DEHYQUART ^® 80 mixture of 2.0 Dicocoylethyl

(Cognis) softening agent and hydroxyethylmonium

Propylene glycol (about Methosulfate (and)

75%) propylene glycol

LAM ESO ^FT® PO 65 Mixture of Coco Glucoside (and) 2.0 (Cognis) alkylpolyglycoside and Glyceryl Oleate

fatty acid monoglyceride

Champagne extract 2,0 water ad 100

pH 3.5

22. Pump spray consolidator

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

HYDAGEN ^® HCMF chitosan powder Chitosan 1, 0

(Cognis)

Glycolic acid (Merk) 0.4

Champagne extract 0,5

PLANTACARE ^® 1200 UP C 12 - C 16 fatty alcohol lauryl glucosides 0.2

(Cognis) holglycoside (about 50%)

Gluadin ^® WQ (Cognis) Cationized Laurdimonium 1, 0

Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Ethanol 40.0

Water ad 100 pH value 4.0 23. Mousse

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

HYDAGEN ^® HCMF chitosan powder chitosan 0.4

(Cognis)

Glycolic acid (Merck) glycolic acid 0.2

Champagne Extract 1, 0

DEHYQUART ^® A cetyltrimethylammonium Cetrimonium Chloride 1, 0

(Cognis) chloride (about 25%)

Gluadin ^® W 40 partial hydrolyzate of Hydrolyzed Wheat 2.0

(Cognis) wheat (about 40%) protein

Water ad 100

24. Styling wax

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Designation%

CUTINA ^® MD (Cognis) mixture of mono- and Glyceryl Stearate 5.0

Diglycerides of palmitic and stearic acid

Eumulgin ^® B 1 Polyoxyethylene-12-Ceteareth-12 1 0

(Cognis) cetylstearyl alcohol

CETIOL ^® V (Cognis) oleate Decyl Oleate 5.0

Paraffin oil 10.0

HYDAGEN ^® HCMF chitosan powder chitosan 0.8

(Cognis)

Glycolic acid (Merck) 0.4

Champagne Extract 1, 0

Water ad 100 25. 2-in-1 shampoo

Ingredient Chem: Designation INCI - Description wt.%

TEXAPON ^® N 70 Sodium lauryl Sodium Laureth Sulfate 12.0

(Cognis) with 2 mol EO (about 70%)

DEHYTON ^® PK 45 fatty acid amide derivative with cocamidopropyl 2.5

(Cognis) Betaine structure (about 45%) Betaine

PLANTACARE ' ^B 818 UP C 8 - C 16 Fatty Alcohol Coco Glucosides 3.0

(Cognis) glycoside (about 50%)

LAM ESO ^FT® PO 65 Coco Glucosides (and) Coco Glucosides (and) 3.0

(Cognis) Glyceryl Oleate Glyceryl Oleate

COSMEDIA ^® GUAR C Guarhydroxypropyltri- hydroxypropyl guar 0.3

261 N (Cognis) methyl ammonium chloride trimonium chlorides

EUPERLAN ^® PK 1200 Liquid dispersion of Coco-Glucoside (and) 5.0

(Cognis) Pearlescing Glycol Distearate (and)

Substances and adjuvants Glycerin

Sodium chloride 1, 2

Pantolactone 0.3

Champagne Extract 1, 0

Caffeine 1, 0

Carnitine tartrate 1, 0

Euxyl K 400 ^® (Schulke & 0.1

Mayr)

Water ad 100

pH 5.5

Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RFT, 23 ° C, Sp.4, 10 rpm 6300 26. conditioning shampoo

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

TEXAPON ^® N 70 sodium lauryl ether sulfate sodium laureth sulfate 10.0 (Cognis) with 2 moles EO (about 70%)

PLANTACARE ^® 818 UP C 8 - C 16 fatty alcohol coco glucoside 4.0 (Cognis) glycoside (about 50%)

DEHYTON ^® K (Cognis) fatty acid amide derivative Cocamidopropyl Betaine 5.0 with betaine structure (ca.

30%)

LAM ESO FT ^® PO 65 Coco-Glucoside (and) Coco Glucoside (and) 1, 5 (Cognis) Glyceryl Oleate Glyceryl Oleate EUPERLAN ^® PK 3000 Liquid dispersion of Glycol Distearate (and) 3.2 AM (Cognis) pearlescing Laureth 4 ( and)

Substances and

Cocamidopropyl betaines

amphosurfactant

Panthenol 1, 5

Champagne Extract 2.0

Carnitine tartrate 1, 0

Caffeine 1, 0

Taurine 1, 0

Ecchinacea Extract 1, 0

Vitamin E 0.5

Polymer ^JR® 400 Polyquaternium 10 0.3

(Amerchol)

Sodium chloride 1, 5

Water ad 100

pH 5.5

Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 8500 27. Baby shampoo

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI Description% by wt.%

Water ad 100

Polymer ^® JR 400 Polyquaternium-10 0.4

(Amerchol)

TEXAPON ^® K 14 S sodium lauryl myristyl ether Sodium myreth 1 1, 0

Special 70% (Cognis) sulfate (about 70%) sulfates

Dehyton ^® PK-45 fatty acid amide derivative 5.0 Cocamidopropyl

(Cognis) with betaine structure (about betaine

45%)

Plantacare ^® 818 UP C 8 - C 16 fatty alcohol Coco Glucoside 5.0

(Cognis) glycoside (about 50%)

LAME SOFT ^® PO 65 coco-glucoside (and) coco-glucoside (and) 5.0 (Cognis) Glyceryl Oleate Glyceryl Oleate

Euxyl K 400 ^® (Schulke & 1, 2-dibromocyanobutane 0.1

Mayr) and 2-phenoxyethanol

Sodium chloride 1, 8

champagne extract

2.5 pH 5.5

Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 3900

28. Pearlescent care shampoo

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

TEXAPON ^® NSO Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate 29.0

(Cognis) (about 28%)

Plantacare ^® 818 UP C 8 - C 16 fatty alcohol Coco Glucoside 5.0

(Cognis) glycoside (about 50%)

TEXAPON ^® SB 3 KC Sulfobernsteinsäurehalb- Disodium Laureth 3.8

, ". , esters based on _o .,. .

(Cognis) _r - .. Su fosuccinate v ^a 'alkyl polyglycol ether, di-

Na salt (about 40%) Hydagen ^® HSP Trimethylolpropane- 0.5

(Cognis) hydroxymethyl stearate

ether

Champagne Extract 1, 0

EUPERLAN ^® PK 3000 Liquid Dispersion of Glycol Distearate (and) 3.0

AM (Cognis) Pearlescent Laureth-4 (and)

Substances and _. ,,

Amphoteric surfactant Cocam ⁱ dopropyl

Betaine

NaCl 2.0

Water ad 100

pH 5.5

Viscosity (mPas), Brook.RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 4100

29. Cream hair color

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI - Description wt.%

Lanette ^® O (Cognis) Cetearyl Alcohol 17.0 Cetylstearyl alcohol

CUTINA ^® AGS (Cognis) Glycol Distearate Ethylene glycol 1, 5

Eumulgin ^® B2 (Cognis) polyoxyethylene-20-Ceteareth-20 3.0

Cetylstearylalkohol

Eumulgin ^® B1 (Cognis) polyoxyethylene-12-Ceteareth-12 3.0

Cetylstearylalkohol

Eumulgin ^® 05 (Cognis) Polyoxyethylene-5- Oleth-5 1, 0

oleyl cetyl alcohol

Eumulgin ^® O10 (Cognis) polyoxyethylene-10 Oleth-10 1 0

oleyl cetyl alcohol

COMPERLAN ^® KD Kokosfettsäurediethanol- Cocamide DEA 5.0

(Cognis) amid

Water ad 100

DEHYQUART ^® L 80 Mixture of esterquat dicocoylethyl 1, 5

(Cognis) and propylene glycol hydroxyethylmonium

Methosulfates (and)

Propylene glycol

Propylene glycol 5.0 p-aminophenol 0.35 p-toluenediamine 0.85

2-methylresorcinol 0.14

6-methyl-m-aminophenol 0.42

Champagne Extract 1, 0

Sodium sulfite 0.6

EDTA Tetrasodium EDTA 0.2

Ammonia, 28% 5.0 30. bubble bath

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI Description% by wt.%

TEXAPON ^® NSO sodium lauryl ether sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate 27.0

(about 28%) PLANTACARE ^® 818 UP C 8 - C 16 Fatty alcohol Coco Glucoside 9.0 glycoside (about 50%) DEHYTON ^® PK 45 Genuine betaine, cocamidopropyl 4.0

Fatty acid amide derivative betaines with betaine structure (ca.

45%) GLUADIN ^® W 40 partial hydrolyzate from Hydrolyzed Wheat 4.0

Wheat protein

Champagne Extract 1, 0

Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 0.3

Water ad 100

31. cleansing milk

Constituent Chem. Designation INCI Description% by wt.%

EMULGADE ^® SE Mixture of partial glyceryl stearates (and) 6.0 glycerides, fatty alcohols, _, .. __, ..

(Cognis),.; , '. .. Ceteareth20 (and)

Wax esters and ethoxylates ^v 'profiled fatty alcohols Ceteareth12 (and)

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate

EUTANOL ^* G (Cognis) 2-Octyldodecanol Octyldodecanol 7.0

(Guerbet alcohol)

Champagne Extract 2.0

CETIOL ^® 868 (Cognis) isooctyl Octyl Stearate 8.0

Glycerin 86% 3.0

Carbopol ^® 981 (Goodrich) Carbomer / 2% 10.0

swelling

NaOH 10% 0.8

Water ad 100

Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 5, 10

8,000 rpm

32. Hair conditioner

Eumulgin ^® B2 ¹ 0.3

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 3,3

Isopropyl myristate 0.5

Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3

Dehyquart ^® A-CA ² 2.0

Salcare ^® SC 96 ³ 1 0

Champagne Extract 1, 0

Citric acid 0.4

Gluadin ^® WQ ⁴ 2.0

Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5

^Phenonip®5 0.8

Water ad 100

¹ cetylstearyl alcohol + 20 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (COGNIS)

² trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride approx. 25% active ingredient (INCI name: Cetrimonium Chloride) (COGNIS)

³ N, N, N, N-trimethyl-2 [(methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] ethanaminium chloride homopolymer (50% active ingredient; INCI name: Polyquaternium-37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprilate dicaprate (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) (ALLIED COLLOIDS)

⁴ Cationized wheat protein hydrolyzate approx. 31% active ingredient (INCI name: Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (COGNIS)

⁵ -hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester-hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester-hydroxybenzoic acid-butyl ester-phenoxyethanol mixture (about 28% active ingredient, INCI name: phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben) (NIPA) 33. Hair conditioner

Eumulgin ^® B2 0.3

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 3,3

Isopropyl myristate 0.5

Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3

Dehyquart ^® L 80 ⁶ 0.4

Cosmedia Guar ^® C 261 ⁷ 1 5

Promois® ^® MEECH-CAQ ⁸ 3.0

Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5

Citric acid 0.4

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Water ad 100

⁶ bis (cocoylethyl) -hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium-methosulfate (about 76% active substance in propylene glycol, INCI name: dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, propylene glycol) (COGNIS)

⁷ guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; INCI name: Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride (COGNIS)

⁸ INCI name: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein (SEIWA KASEI)

34th conditioner

Dehyquart ^® F75 ⁹ 4.0

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 4.0

Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt DAB 9 1, 5

Dehyquart® ^® A-CA 4.0

Champagne Extract 2.0

Caffeine 1, 0

Taurine 0.5

Carnitine tartrate 3.0

Salcare ^® SC 96 1, 5

Amisafe-LMA- ^60®10 1, 0

Gluadin ^® W 20 ¹¹ 3.0

Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5 Citric acid 0.15

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Water ad 100

⁹ fatty alcohols-Methyltriethanolammoniummethylsulfatdialkylester mixture (I NCI designation: Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol) (COGNIS)

¹⁰ INCI name Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / myristyl EtherHCI (Ajinomoto)

¹¹ Wheat protein hydrolyzate (20% active in water, INCI name: Aqua (and) Hydrolysed Wheat Protein (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Methyl paraben (and) Propylparaben) (COGNIS)

35th conditioner

Dehyquart ^® L80 2.0

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 6.0

Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt DAB 9 2,0

Rewoquat ^® W 75 ¹² 2.0

Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5

Champagne Extract 2.0

Copherol 1200 (Vitamin E) 1, 0

Cosmedia Guar C261 ^® 0.5

Sepigel ^® 305 ¹³ 3,5

Honeyquat ^® 50 ¹⁴ 1 0

Gluadin WQ ^® 2.5

Gluadin® ^® W 20 3.0

Citric acid 0.15

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Water ad 100

¹² 1-Methyl-2-nortalgalkyl-3-tallow fatty acid amidoethylimidazolinium methosulfate (about 75% active ingredient in propylene glycol, INCI name: Quaternium-27, propylene glycol) (WITCO)

¹³ copolymer of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (I NCI)

Name: Polyacrylamide (and) Ci ₃ -Ci ₄ Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7) (SEPPIC)

14 INCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey (BROOKS) 36th conditioner

Dehyquart ^® F75 0.3

Salcare ^® SC 96 5.0

Gluadin ^® WQ 1, 5

Dow ^Corning® 200 Fluid, 5 cSt. ¹⁵ 1, 5

Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5

Champagne extract 0,5

Gafquat 755N ^® ¹⁶ 1, 5

Biodocarb® ¹⁷ 0.02

Perfume oil 0.25

Water ad 100

¹⁵ polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name: dimethicone) (DOW CORNING)

¹⁶ Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (19% active substance in water, INCI name: Polyquaternium)

1 1)

(GAF)

¹⁷ 3-iodo-2-propynyl-n-butylcarbamate (INCI name: iodopropynyl butylcarbamate) (MILKER & GRÜNING)

37. Hair Conditioner

Sepigel ^® 305 5.0

Dow Corning ^® Q2-5220 ¹⁸ 1, 5

Promois ^® Milk Q ¹⁹ 3.0

Champagne Extract 1, 0

Polymer P1 according to DE 3929173 0.6

Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5

Genamin DSAC ^® ²⁰ 0.3

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Perfume oil 0.25

Water ad 100

¹⁸ silicone glycol copolymer (INCI name: Dimethicone Cc (DOW

CORNING) ¹⁹ INCI name Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein approx. 30% active substance (SEIWA KASEI)

²⁰ Dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT)

38. Shampoo

Texapon.RTM ^® NSO ²¹ 40.0

Dehyton ^® G ²² 6.0

Polymer JR 400 ^®23 0.5

Cetiol ^® HE ²⁴ 0.5

Ajidew NL ^® 50 ²⁵ 1 0

Gluadin ^® WQT ²⁶ 2.5

Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5

Champagne Extract 1, 0

Carnitine tartrate 0.5

Taurine 0.5

Caffeine 0.5

Coenzyme QI O 0.005

Gluadin ^® W 20 0.5

Panthenol (50%) 0.3

Vitamin E 0.1

Vitamin H 0.1

Citric acid 0.5

Sodium benzoate 0.5

Perfume 0.4

NaCl 0.5

Water ad 100

²¹ sodium lauryl ether sulfate approx. 28% active ingredient (INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (COGNIS)

²² INCI name: Sodium cocoamphoacetate approx. 30% active ingredient (COGNIS) ²³ quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (INCI name: Polyquaternium-10) (UNION CARBIDE)

²⁴ Polyol fatty acid esters (INCI name: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) (COGNIS)

²⁵ sodium salt of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid (AJINOMOTO)

²⁶ INCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (COGNIS)

39. Shampoo

Texapon.RTM ^® NSO 43.0

Dehyton ^® ^"27 10.0

Plantacare ^® 1200 UP ²⁸ 4.0

Euperlan PK 3000 ^® ²⁹ 1, 6

Arquad ^® 316 ³⁰ 0.8

Polymer ^JR® 400 0.3

Gluadin WQ ^® 4.0

Glucamate DOE 120 ^® 0.5 ³¹

Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5

Coenzyme Q I O 0.005

Caffeine 0.5

Carnitine tartrate 0.5

Champagne Extract 1, 0

Sodium chloride 0.2

Water ad 100

²⁷ INCI name: Cocamidopropyl Betaine approx. 30% active ingredient (COGNIS)

²⁸ C 12 - C 16 fatty alcohol glycoside approx. 50% active ingredient (INCI name: lauryl glucoside) (COGNIS)

²⁹ Liquid dispersion of pearlescent agents and amphoteric surfactant (ca. 62% active substance; CTFA name: Glycol Distearate (and) Glycerin (and) Laureth-4 (and) Cocoamidopropyl Betaine) (Cognis)

³⁰ Tri-C _{| |} β-alkylmethylammonium chloride (AKZO)

³¹ ethoxylated methylglucoside dioleate (CTFA name: PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate) (AMERCHOL) 40. Shampoo

Texapon ^® N 70 ³² 21 0

Plantacare ^® 1200 UP 8.0

Gluadin ^® WQ 1, 5

Cutina EGMS ^® ³³ 0.6

Honeyquat ^® 50 ³⁴ 2.0

Ajidew NL ^® 50 2.8

Antil ^® 141 ³⁵ 1, 3

Champagne extract 0,5

Carnitine 0.25

Tartaric acid 0.25

Coenzyme Q I O 0.005

Caffeine 0.5

Panthenol 0.5

Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5

Sodium chloride 0.2

Magnesium hydroxide ad pH 4.5

Water ad 100

³² Sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2 moles EO approx. 70% active ingredient (INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (COGNIS)

³³ ethylene glycol monostearate (about 25-35% monoester, 60-70% diester;

INCI: name: Glycol Stearate) (COGNIS)

³⁴ INCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey (about 50% active ingredient)

(Brooks)

³⁵ Polyoxyethylene propylene glycol dioleate (40% active ingredient, INCI name: Propylene Glycol (and) PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate) (GOLDSCHMIDT) 41. Shampoo

Texapon ^® K 14 S ³⁶ 50.0

Dehyton ^® K 10.0

Plantacare® ^® 818 UP ³⁷ 4.5

Polymer P1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.6

Cutina® AGS ³⁸ 2.0

D-panthenol 0.5

Glucose 1, 0 dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5

Champagne extract 0,5

Caffeine 0.5

Salicylic acid 0.4

Sodium chloride 0.5

Gluadin WQ ^® 2.0

Water ad 100

³⁶ sodium lauryl myristyl ether sulfate approx. 28% active ingredient (INCI name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate) (COGNIS)

³⁷ C 8 - C 16 fatty alcohol glycoside approx. 50% active substance (INCI name: Coco Glucoside) (COGNIS)

³⁸ ethylene glycol stearate (about 5-15% monoester, 85-95% diester, INCI name: Glycol Distearate) (COGNIS)

42. Conditioner

Celquat ^® L 200 ³⁹ 0.6

Luviskol ^® K30 ⁴⁰ 0.2

D-panthenol 0.5

Polymer P1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.6

Dehyquart ^® A-CA ⁴¹ 1, 0

Gluadin ^® W 40 ⁴² 1 0

Natrosol ^® 250 HR ⁴³ 1, 1

Champagne extract 0,5

Gluadin WQ ^® 2.0

Water ad 100 ³⁹ quaternized cellulose derivative (95% active, CTFA name: Polyquaternium-4) (DELFT NATIONAL)

⁴⁰ polyvinylpyrrolidone (95% active substance, CTFA name: PVP) (BASF)

⁴¹ Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Cetrimonium Chloride) (COGNIS)

⁴² partial hydrolyzate from wheat approx. 40% active ingredient (INCI - name: Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (COGNIS)

⁴³ hydroxyethylcellulose (AQUALON)

43. Dyeing cream c12-18 ^' Fettalkono1 ¹ ' ²

Lanette ^® O ⁴⁴ 4.0

Eumulgin ^® B 2 0.8

Cutina ^® KD 16 ⁴⁵ 2.0

Sodium sulfite 0.5

L (+) - ascorbic acid 0.5

Ammonium sulfate 0.5

1, 2-propylene glycol 1, 2

Polymer ^JR® 400 0.3 p-aminophenol 0.35 p-toluenediamine 0.85

2-methylresorcinol 0.14

6-methyl-m-aminophenol 0.42

Cetiol OE ^® ⁴⁶ 0.5

Champagne extract 0,5

Honeyquat ^® 50 1 0

Ajidew NL ^® 50 1 2

Gluadin® ^® WQ 1, 0

Ammonia 1, 5

Water ad 100

⁴⁴ Cetylstearyl alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol) (COGNIS)

⁴⁵ Self-emulsifying mixture of mono- / diglycerides higher saturated Fatty acids with potassium stearate (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate SE) (COGNIS) 4 ⁶ Di-n-octyl ether (INCI name: dicaprylyl ether) (COGNIS)

44. Developer Dispersion for Dyeing Cream 12.

Texapon.RTM ^® NSO 2.1

Hydrogen peroxide (50%) 12.0

Turpinal SL ^® ⁴⁷ 1, 7

Latekoll ^® D ⁴⁸ 12.0

Champagne extract 0,5

Gluadin WQ ^® 0.3

Salcare ^® SC 96 1 0

Water ad 100

⁴⁷ 1-hydroxyethane-1, 1-diphosphonic acid (60% active ingredient, INCI name:

Etidronic Acid) (COGNIS)

48 Acrylic ester-methacrylic acid copolymer (25% active substance) (BASF)

The staining cream had a pH of 10.0. It caused an intense red tint of the hair.

45. Tinting shampoo

Texapon.RTM ^® N 70 14.0

Dehyton ^® K 10.0

Akypo ^® RLM 45 NV ⁴⁹ 14.7

Plantacare ^® 1200 UP 4.0

Polymer P1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.3

Cremophor ^® RH 40 ⁵⁰ 0.8

Dye Cl. 12,719 0.02

Dye Cl. 12,251 0.02

Dye Cl. 12 250 0.04

Champagne extract 0,5

Dye C.I. 56 059 0.03

Preservation 0.25 Perfume oil qs

Eutanol ^® G ⁵¹ 0.3

Gluadin® ^® WQ 1, 0

Honeyquat ^® 50 1 0

Salcare ^® SC 96 0.5

Water ad 100

⁴⁹ lauryl alcohol + 4.5 ethylene oxide-acetic acid sodium salt (20.4% active substance) (CHEM-Y)

⁵⁰ castor oil, hydrogenated + 45 ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil) (BASF)

⁵¹ 2-octyldodecanol (guerbet alcohol) (INCI name: octyldodecanol) (COGNIS)

When washing the hair with this tinting shampoo they get a shiny, light blonde color.

46. Cream duration wave Well cream

Plantacare ^® 810 UP ⁵² 5.0

Thioglycolic acid 8.0

Turpinal SL ^® 0.5

Ammonia (25%) 7.3

Ammonium carbonate 3.0

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 5.0

Guerbet Alcohol 4.0

Champagne extract 0,5

Salcare ^® SC 96 3.0

Gluadin WQ ^® 2.0

Perfume oil q.s.

Water ad 100

⁵² Cg-C- _] Q-alkylglucoside with degree of oligomerization 1, 6 (about 60% active substance) (COGNIS) fixing

Plantacare ^® 810 UP 5.0 hydrogenated castor oil 2.0

Potassium bromate 3,5

Nitrilotriacetic acid 0.3

Citric acid 0.2

Champagne extract 0,5

Merquat ^® 550 ⁵³ 0.5

Hydagen HCMF ^® ⁵⁴ 0.5

Gluadin WQ ^® 0.5

Perfume oil q.s.

Water ad 100

⁵³ Dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer (8% active ingredient, INCI name: Polyquarternium 7) (MOBIL OIL)

⁵⁴ chitosan powder (INCI name: chitosan) (COGNIS)

47. Face Waters

47.1 47.2 47.3

Pluronic ^® L 64 ⁵⁵ 3,0 4,0 5,0

Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) - 0.25 0.25 0.25 furanone

Champagne extract 0,5 0,25 1, 0

Caffeine 0.3 0.3 0.75

Taurine 0.25 0.25 0.5

Carnitine tartrate 0,5 0,5 0,5

Vitamin E 0.5 0.5 1, 0

Dipropylene glycol 10.0 10.0 10.0

Emulsifier TD9 / PEG40HCO ⁵⁶ 0.5 0.5 0.5

Perfume 0.2 0.2 0.2

Zn-gluconate 0.05 0.07 0.10 Hydagen CMF ^® ⁵⁷ 3.5 6.0 9.5

Water (NaOH to pH = 5) ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

⁵⁵ EO-PO-EO block polymer (EO = 40% by weight), OH = 39.1

⁵⁶ Trideceth 9 and PEG40-hydrogenated castor oil

⁵⁷ solution of chitosan (about 1 wt .-%) in a 0.4% aqueous glycolic acid solution

48. Skin Emulsions (O / W)

48.1 48.2

Emulgade® ^® SE ⁵⁹ 8.0 8.0

Cutina ^® ^MD-60 A 1, 5 1, 5

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 1, 5 1, 5

Myritol ^® 318 ⁶¹ 10.0 10.0

2-ethylhexyl stearate 5.0 5.0

Dimethylpolysiloxane (350 at) 1, 0 1, 0

Controx KS ^® ⁶² 0.05 0.05

PHB propyl ester 0.2 0.2

P H B-methyl ester 0.2 0.2

Champagne extract 0,5 0,25

1, 2-propylene glycol 3.0 3.0

Hydagen® ^® CMF 3.0 8.0

Zn-gluconate 0.04 0.10

Water (NaOH to pH = 5) ad 100 ad 100

⁵⁹ Mixture of: glyceryl stearate, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate (COGNIS)

⁶⁰ glyceryl stearates (COGNIS)

⁶¹ Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides (COGNIS)

⁶² Tocopherol and Hydrogenated Tallow Glycerides Citrate (COGNIS)

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic compositions, characterized in that they contain a champagne extract.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain a) an aqueous surfactant base, b) a champagne extract and c) a polymer.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the aqueous surfactant base comprises a mixture of at least one anionic and at least one zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the surfactant of the washing base is selected from the mild surfactants, characterized in that the HET - CAM stimulus score has a value less than 1, 5.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the total surfactant content in the agent is up to 25 wt .-%.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the polymer is selected from the cationic and / or the amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the polymer is selected from the cationic polymers.

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that further at least one purine and / or derivative of purines is contained.

9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the champagne extract is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 15 wt.% With respect to the total agent.

10. A method for cleaning and care of skin and hair, characterized in that an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 9 applied to the skin and / or hair, distributed and after a contact time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes with water again is rinsed out.