FR2966359A1 - Composition, useful for make up and/or care of lips or skin, comprises an ethylcellulose, volatile hydrocarbon oil comprising e.g. ether and/or carbonate and a non volatile oil comprising e.g. ester and/or apolar hydrocarbon oil - Google Patents

Abstract

Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprises, in a medium, at least one ethylcellulose; at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil comprising ester, optionally hydroxylated, ether, dialkoxymethane, and/or carbonate; and at least one non volatile oil comprising ester, apolar hydrocarbon oil and/or silicone oil.

Description

The present invention aims to provide cosmetic compositions comprising ethylcellulose, capable of providing a deposit, in particular makeup, having good cosmetic properties, especially in terms of strength. The cosmetic compositions contemplated in the present invention are more particularly makeup and / or care compositions intended to be applied to the skin and / or the lips, in particular the lips. In general, the cosmetic compositions must impart an aesthetic effect when applied to the skin and / or the lips, and maintain this aesthetic effect over time. Once applied, they must in particular withstand the various external factors likely to change their aesthetic effect such as sweat or tears for a foundation, or saliva for lipsticks. Improvement of the hold, in particular of the color of the deposition in time of the cosmetic products, once applied to the skin and / or the lips, is a permanent preoccupation of the formulators exercising in the field of lipsticks, lip gloss and other skin care products and / or lips. In addition, it is desirable to avoid the transfer of makeup deposits on certain supports with which they can be brought into contact, such as a glass, a cup, a cigarette, a garment or skin. It is known that ethylcellulose makes it possible, when it is used in sufficient quantity in cosmetic and / or therapeutic compositions, to obtain deposits whose adhesion and holding properties, in particular on the lips or the skin. , are improved. It has also been demonstrated that ethylcellulose, solubilized in sufficient quantities in the compositions, makes it possible, by virtue of its properties as a film-forming agent, to facilitate the formation of a film on the skin and / or the lips, and improve the water resistance of this film. In general, monoalcohols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, butanol, methanol or isopropanol, are preferred for solubilizing sufficient quantities of ethylcellulose in cosmetic compositions or pharmaceuticals. The evaporation of the C 2 -C 8 mono-alcohols leads, after application of the corresponding cosmetic composition to the skin or the lips, on the one hand to a concentration of the deposit and, on the other hand, to the formation of a coating. surface of the skin or lips having a very good behavior. For example, the document WO 96/36310 proposes cosmetic compositions comprising especially ethylcellulose solubilized in ethyl alcohol (solvents "SDA 38B-190" or "SDA 40B-190"). However, these volatile mono-alcohols have the disadvantage of being potentially uncomfortable (tightness, dryness), even irritating to the skin and / or the lips, and therefore, can be detrimental during repeated use on the skin. skin or lips. In order to overcome this problem, it is envisaged to use other volatile solvents such as isododecane or cyclopentasiloxane as an alternative to C 2 -C 8 monoalcohols.

Unfortunately, the substitution of C 2 -C 8 mono-alcohols by these solvents may be detrimental in terms of the homogeneity of the composition (in particular, the formation of grains in the composition), the strength and homogeneity of the resulting deposit on skin or lips. Therefore, there remains a need for cosmetic compositions, free of mono-alcohol C2-Cg, comprising a sufficient amount of ethylcellulose, which are homogeneous, and capable of forming on the skin and / or the lips a homogeneous, brilliant deposit , low tack and having satisfactory holding properties. There is more particularly a need for homogeneous makeup and / or skin care compositions and / or lips, comprising a sufficient amount of dispersed ethylcellulose, comfortable to the application and the port, in particular devoid of tacky effect (or weakly sticky), and allowing to obtain a homogeneous deposit, shiny, of good behavior and not migrating in wrinkles and fine lines, during the day. The present invention is specifically intended to meet these needs.

As can be seen from the examples presented below, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to obtain a stable and homogeneous dispersion of ethylcellulose with a non-aqueous medium distinct from C2-C8 monoalcohols, and this without damaging the holding properties of the corresponding composition, thanks to a combination of specific oils.

Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the subject of the present invention is an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one of ethylcellulose, at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from esters, optionally hydroxylated; the ethers; dialkoxymethane; carbonates; and their mixtures; and at least one non-volatile oil chosen from ester oils, apolar hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, a cosmetic composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a deposit having good properties in terms of resistance, comfort on application (in particular, provided with ease of application on the skin or the lips ), gloss, non-sticky effect, and / or homogeneity. In particular, a composition according to the invention is free of C2-C8 monoalcohols. A composition according to the invention advantageously enables the ethylcellulose to be dispersed stably and homogeneously, and in particular at a content which makes it possible to obtain a deposit on the lips or the skin, in particular having a satisfactory level of resistance for the user. , for example at a content of between 10 and 30% by weight of dry matter of ethylcellulose relative to the weight of the composition. In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of dry matter of ethylcellulose dispersion, relative to the total weight of said composition, in particular at least 10% by weight, preferably from 10 to 30% by weight. % by weight, in particular at least 20% by weight of ethylcellulose. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises from 15% to 25% by weight of dry matter of ethylcellulose dispersion, relative to the total weight of said composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means a composition in which the water is not added deliberately, but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition (for example, in a water content of less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition). A cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in liquid or solid form at 20 ° C. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in liquid form at 20 ° C.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liquid" means a fluid composition which is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), as opposed to so-called solid compositions. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a liquid lipstick, also called gloss. In another embodiment, the composition is in solid form at 20 ° C. It can for example be a stick for the lips. For the purposes of the invention, the term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at a temperature of 20 ° C. In particular, a solid composition according to the invention has, at a temperature of 20 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a hardness of greater than 30 Nr -1, preferably greater than 40 Nr -1.

Protocol for Measuring Hardness The hardness of a solid composition according to the invention, in particular in the form of a stick, is measured according to the following protocol: The stick is stored at 20 ° C. for 24 hours before measuring the hardness. The hardness can be measured at 20 ° C. by the so-called "butter-cutting thread" method, which consists in transversely cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical of revolution, with the aid of a rigid tungsten wire. 250 μm diameter by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min. The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in Nrr -1, is measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by INDELCOCHATILLON. The measurement is repeated three times and averaged. The average of the three values read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newton and divided by L which represents the highest dimension traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in meters). The hardness is converted to Nr -1 by the equation below: (Yx 10-3 x 9.8) / L For a measurement at a different temperature, the stick is kept at this new temperature for 24 hours before the measurement.

According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention has a hardness at 20 ° C, greater than or equal to 30 Nm i, preferably greater than 40 Nm i, preferably greater than 50 Nm-1. Preferably, the composition according to the invention has in particular a hardness at 20 ° C, less than 500 Nm 1, especially less than 400 Nm 1, preferably less than 300 Nm 1. In particular, a composition whose hardness is greater than 30 Nm 1 is a so-called "solid" composition at 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

According to a particular embodiment, a composition of the invention may further comprise at least one apolar, preferably hydrocarbon, volatile oil.

According to another of its aspects, the present application relates to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of the lips and / or the skin, in particular the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said lips and or the skin at least one composition as defined above. The present application also relates to the use of an anhydrous cosmetic composition as defined above, in order to obtain a makeup deposit on the skin and / or the lips, which is comfortable, glossy, homogeneous, and / or exhibiting good 20 holding of the color.

ETHYLCELLULOSE A composition according to the invention comprises at least ethylcellulose. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the ethylcellulose is present in a composition according to the invention in a dry matter content, greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably greater than or equal to at 10% by weight, in particular ranging from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises from 15% to 25% by weight of dry matter of ethylcellulose, relative to the total weight of said composition.

In particular, the ethylcellulose is present in the stable and homogeneous dispersion state, that is to say in a form dispersed in the composition according to the invention. Ethylcellulose is a cellulose ethyl ether comprising a chain consisting of 3-anhydroglucose units linked together by acetal bonds, each anhydroglucose unit having three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to following reaction: RONa + C2H5C1 ROC2H5 + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical.

The total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for each anhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, ie to an ethoxy content of 54.88%. The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising a content of ethoxy groups ranging from 44 to 50%. In particular, the ethylcellulose used during the preparation of a composition according to the invention may be in the form of a powder. As examples of ethylcellulose polymers that can be used in a composition according to the present invention, mention may be made of the products marketed by the company HERCULE, Inc. (Wilmington, Del.), Under the name "Aqualori Ethylcellulose" ". The products "Aqualori Ethylcellulose" are referenced according to four categories (type K, N, T or X) according to the content of ethoxy groups, as shown in Table 1 below. TABLE 1 Product Aqualori type K type N type T type X Content in groups 45.0-47.2 48.0-49.5 49.6-51.5 50.5-52.5 ethoxy (%) Degree of substitution in 2,22-2,41 2,46-2,57 2,58-2,73 2,65-2,81 ethoxy groups per unit of anhydroglucose The various polymers of ethylcellulose are also named under the measured viscosity of a 5% by weight solution of ethylcellulose in toluene: ethanol (80:20). For example, the product "Aqualon K100 Ethylcellulose" refers to the type K ethylcellulose polymer, that is to say comprising from 45 to 47.2% of ethoxy groups (or a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups per unit anhydroglucose ranging from 2.22 to 2.41), and having at 5% by weight in toluene: ethanol (80:20), an average viscosity of 100 mPa.s. The "Aqualori Ethylcellulose" products of categories N, T, X are also referenced according to their viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene: ethanol (80:20) mixture at 25 ° C. (the measurements being carried out according to the ASTM D914 method) as shown in Table 2 below.

TABLE2 Product Aqualori Product Aqualori Product Aqualori Viscosity (mPa.s at type N type T type X 25 ° at 80/20 toluene / ethanol) N4 - - 3-5,5 N7 - - 5,6-8 N10 T10 - 8- 11 N14 - - 12-16 N22 - X22 18-24 N50 T50 - 40-52 N100 T100 - 80-105 N200 T200 X200 150-250 N300 T300 - 250-350 In a particularly preferred embodiment, the ethylcellulose In a composition according to the invention is a polymer of ethylcellulose comprising a degree of substitution of ethoxy groups per anhydroglucose unit ranging from 2.46 to 2.57.

Preferably, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer having in particular a viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene: ethanol (80:20) mixture at 25 ° C. between 3 and 350 mPa.s. Preferably, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer having in particular a viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene: ethanol (80:20) mixture at 25 ° C. between 3 and 105 mPa.s. Preferably, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer having in particular a viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene: ethanol (80:20) mixture at 25 ° C. between 3 and 24 mPa.s.

More preferably, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is a polymer of ethylcellulose having in particular a viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene mixture: ethanol (80:20) at 25 ° C included between 3 and 8 mPa.s. Finally, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer having in particular a viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene: ethanol (80:20) mixture. at 25 ° C between 3 and 5.5 mPa.s. N- or T-type ethylcelluloses, preferably of N type, are thus preferred, sold by the company Aqualon.

In a particularly preferred manner, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is the product marketed by Aqualon under the reference "Aqualon N4 Ethylcellulose". In a particularly preferred manner, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer having in particular a viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene mixture: ethanol (80:20) at 25 ° C. included between 3 and 6 mPa.s.

As mentioned above, the ethylcellulose is used according to the present invention in combination with at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one nonvolatile oil, as described more precisely below.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the skin and the lips, such as oils or organic solvents commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted (tolerance, toxicology and acceptable touch) to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.

FATTY PHASE The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase, and in particular a liquid fatty phase.

VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OIL As stated above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one (that is to say one or more) volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from: - the esters, which may be hydroxylated or not, - the ethers (and especially monoethers), dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ).

By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon atoms, hydrogen and oxygen, and free of heteroatoms such as N, Si and P. Preferably, said volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises between 3 and 11 carbon atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oil considered according to the invention makes it possible to effectively disperse the ethylcellulose when the latter is used in said oil, especially at a content of between 10 and 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. The solution obtained at the end of 24 hours at a temperature of 20 ° C. is homogeneous and stable (no phenomenon of phase shift or grain formation is observed). According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises one or more volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, in particular from 8% to 40% by weight. by weight, preferably from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil according to the invention is aliphatic. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil according to the invention is polar. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C. Sa is different from 0 (J / cm). The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the space of three-dimensional solubility of HANSEN are described in the article by CM HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - SD characterizes the dispersion forces of LONDON resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - 8p characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; bh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); and - Sa is determined by the equation: Sa = (8p2 + 8hz) ~ 'A The parameters bp, bh, SD and Sa are expressed in (J / cm3)' A According to a preferred embodiment, said volatile hydrocarbon oil is more particularly chosen from: - the optionally hydroxylated esters, preferably comprising between 5 and 12 carbon atoms in total, preferably the monoesters, and in particular the C 2 -C 6 monoalcohol esters and the C 3 -C 6 monocarboxylic acid esters, optionally hydroxylated, comprising between 5 and 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as isopropyl hexanoate or ethyl lactate; ethers (in particular monoethers) having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms in total, for example such as dipentyl ether; dialkoxymethane having from 3 to 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as dimethoxy methane, diethoxy methane, or dibutoxymethane. Such compounds are in particular marketed under the names methylal, ethylal and butylal respectively by Lambiotte; carbonates having from 3 to 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate; - and their mixtures.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is an optionally hydroxylated ester oil comprising between 3 and 11 carbon atoms, preferably between 7 and 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as isopropyl hexanoate or ethyl lactate. These esters are also called "ester oil". By "ester oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one ester function. According to a preferred embodiment, it is isopropyl hexanoate. According to a second preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is a dialkoxymethane having from 3 to 11 carbon atoms in total, in particular chosen from dimethoxymethane, diethoxymethane and dibutoxymethane. Such compounds are in particular marketed under the names methylal, ethylal and butylal respectively by Lambiotte. According to a preferred embodiment, it is dibutoxymethane. According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is a carbonate, especially having from 3 to 11 carbon atoms in total, in particular selected from dimethylcarbonate, diethylcarbonate, dipropylcarbonate, and dipentylcarbonate. According to a preferred embodiment, it is dipropylcarbonate. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from esters, dialkoxymethane, and / or carbonates, especially such as those defined above.

More preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from esters and / or dialkoxymethane, especially such as those defined above. According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from isopropylhexanoate and / or dibutoxymethane (also called butylal). By way of example, mention may be made especially of dibutoxymethane sold under the name "butylal ultra pure grade" by the company LAMBIOTTE. The volatile hydrocarbon oil used in a composition according to the invention may in particular have properties as a plasticizer, that is to say, to give flexibility and comfort when applying the composition according to the invention. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil and ethylcellulose are used in the composition according to the invention in a weight ratio volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) / ethylcellulose ranging from 0, 5 to 2, preferably 0.7 to 1.5, and especially about 1.

NON-VOLATILE OIL As stated above, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one non-volatile oil chosen from ester oils, apolar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and their mixture.

By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10.3 mm Hg (0 , 13 Pa).

Non-volatile ester oil According to a first preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is an ester oil, in particular having between 16 and 70 carbon atoms. By "ester oil" is meant a hydrocarbon oil comprising at least one ester function. By way of examples, mention may be made of mono-, di- or tri-esters. The ester oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can in particular be hydroxylated.

The non-volatile ester oil may preferably be chosen from: monoesters comprising between 16 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula RICOOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising 4 to 40 carbon atoms and Rz represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that RI + Rz is 16, for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononanoate. isononyl, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearyl ester, isostearyl, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, palmitate 2-ethylhexyl, the laurate of 2- hexyl decyl, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate. Preferably, these are the esters of formula RICOOR 2 in which RI represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and Rz represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms. carbon, R1 and Rz being such that R1 + Rz is 16. Preferably, the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total. As preferred monoesters, mention may be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate; diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. Diesters of dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, such as diisostearyl malate or diesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate (especially such as the compound sold under the commercial reference DERMOL DGDIS by the company Alzo); the triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as the triesters of triacid carboxylic acid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and mono carboxylic acids such as triisostearate polyglycerol-2; tetraesters, in particular having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, such as the tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl of tetraisostearate, tetraisononate of pentaerythrityl, glyceryl 2-decyltetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-diol; butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA; esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of diol dimer and of fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer of dicarboxylic acid, in particular being obtainable from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, especially of C 8 to C 34, in particular C 12 to C 22, in particular C 16 to C 20, and more particularly to C 18, such as the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®; vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as triglycerides of fatty acids (liquid at room temperature), in particular of fatty acids having from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil, in particular, there may be mentioned saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerol trioctanoate, C18-36 acid triglycerides such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil; - and their mixtures.

Nonvolatile Apolar Hydrocarbon Oil According to a second preferred embodiment, the nonvolatile oil is an apolar hydrocarbon oil. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C., 8a, is equal to 0 (J / cm 3). Preferably, the apolar hydrocarbon oil is free of carbon dioxide. oxygen atom. Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as: paraffin oil or its derivatives, petrolatum oil, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 15 (MW = 2160g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO, the hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parléam marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MW = 1340 g / m) mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), REWOPAL PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), - decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14, polydecenes and polydecenes hy such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS, and mixtures thereof.

Non-volatile silicone oil According to a third preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is a silicone oil. By "silicone oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one Si atom.

The nonvolatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention may especially be chosen from silicone oils having in particular a viscosity at 25 ° C. of greater than or equal to 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and preferably less than 800,000 cSt, preferably between 50 and 600,000 cSt, preferably between 100 and 500,000 cSt. The viscosity of this silicone can be measured according to ASTM D-445.

The non-volatile silicone oil may be a phenylated or non-phenylated silicone oil. The non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil may be chosen from: - non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), - PDMSs containing pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, PDMSs comprising aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted by a fluorinated group such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes; substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one non-phenylated linear silicone oil. As representative of these non-volatile and non-phenylated linear silicone oils, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; vinylmethylmethicones; as well as silicones modified with aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.

The non-phenylated linear silicone oil may in particular be chosen from the silicones of formula (I): embedded image in which: R 1, R 2, RS and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical, X is an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical, n and p being integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular having a viscosity at 25 ° C of between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10-6 m / s) )) and 800,000 cSt. As non-volatile silicone oil that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the compounds of formula (I) for which: the substituents R 1 to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the viscosity is 500,000 cst, such as that sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, that sold under the name AK 500000 by Waker, the one sold under the name Mirasil DM 500,000 by Bluestar and that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500,000 cst by Dow Corning Corporation. the substituents R1 to R6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cst, such as that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Corning and that sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60,000 by the company Wacker. the substituents R 1 to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cst, such as that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning. the substituents R1 to R6 represent a methyl group, the X group represents a hydroxyl group, n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, such as that sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive.

According to an alternative embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil as a non-volatile oil. As a representative of these phenylated nonvolatile silicone oils, mention may be made of: ## STR1 ## in which the R groups represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl provided that at least one R group represents phenyl. Preferably in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: RRR R - Si 0 Si 0 Si RRRR (II) in which the R groups represent independently of each other a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one R group represents a phenyl. Preferably in this formula, said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described above can be used. For example, mixtures of organopolysiloxane triphenyl, tetra- or penta-phenyl. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: the phenylated silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: RRR R-Si 15 h Ph Ph Me-Si 0 S`li O 5i Me 1 1 Ph Me Ph (III) in which Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl. Such phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl 1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane, INCI name : trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: ## STR1 ## in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1,000, and X represents -CH 2 -CH (CH3) (Ph). the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (V): Me Me-Si I (V) in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group -OSiMe3 and y is 0 or varies between 1 and 1000 z varies between 1 and 1000, so that the compound (V) is a non-volatile oil. According to a first embodiment, y varies between 1 and 1000. It is possible to use, for example, trimethyl Siloxyphenyl Dimethicone, sold in particular under the reference BELSIL PDM 1000 sold by the company Wacker. According to a second embodiment y is equal to 0. It is possible to use for example PHENYL TRIMETHYLSILOXY TRISILOXANE, in particular sold under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID. (IV) wherein the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VI), and their mixtures: Ra si-o -Ra Rp m R1 Rz P in which: - RI in Rio , independently of one another, are hydrocarbon radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30, m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum 'm + n + q' is different from 0.

Preferably, the sum 'm + n + q' is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum 'm + n + p + q' is between 1 and 900, more preferably between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0. - the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VII), and their mixtures: H3 R3 R4 (VII) in which: R1 to R6, independently of one another, are saturated hydrocarbon radicals; or cyclic or branched linear unsaturated, in C 1 -C 30, m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum 'n + m' is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R 1 to R 6, independently of each other, represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, C 1 -C 30, especially C 1 -C 12, and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical. In particular, R 1 to R 6 may be the same, and furthermore may be a methyl radical. Preferably, one can have m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1, in formula (VII). the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VIII), and their mixtures: ## STR1 ## in which: ## STR1 ## in which: is a C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, provided that the sum n + m From 1 to 100. In particular, the radicals R of formula (VIII) and R1 to Rio defined above, may each represent a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, especially C2-C20, in particular C3 -C16 and more particularly C4-C10, or a C6-C14 mono- or polycyclic aryl radical, especially C10-C13 or an aralkyl radical whose aryl and alkyl residues are as defined above. Preferably, R of the formula (VIII) and R 1 to R 10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25 ° C of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 / s (ie 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably having a viscosity of 5 and 1000 mm 2 / s (ie 5 to 1000 cSt).

As phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII), phenyltrimethicones such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), Silbione 70663V30 from Rhône Poulenc (28 cSt), or diphenyldimethicones such as oils can be used in particular. Belsil, including Belsil PDM1000 (1000cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20cSt) from Wacker. Values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 ° C. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula, and their mixtures: R2 n p

in which: R 1, R 2, RS and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R 3 and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or aryl radical, X is an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a molecular weight mass of less than 200 000 g / mol, preferably less than 150,000 g / mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol. the phenyl silicones are more particularly chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, the phenyl silicones are more chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil according to the invention varies from 500 to 10,000 g / mol.

By way of example of non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of silicone oils such as: phenyl silicones (also called phenylated silicone oil), such as Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker (MW = 9000 g / mol) ( of formula (V) above), phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2- phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane (such as that sold under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI cosmetic fluid by Dow Corning) (cf formula (III) above), non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl groups or alkoxy, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; - and their mixtures.

According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenyl silicone oil. According to a second embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one non-phenyl silicone oil.

According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile oil (s) chosen from ester oils, apolar hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils is / are present in a certain amount. total amount ranging from 20% to 80% by weight, in particular from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from ester oils, in particular from vegetable hydrocarbon oils, and more particularly saturated triglycerides. Preferably, the non-volatile oil is chosen from capric / caprylic acid triglycerides.

More particularly, mention may be made of the caprylic / capric acid triglyceride mixture marketed under the trademark "Myritol 318" by the company COGNIS.

A composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the ethylcellulose and the oils described above, at least one compound chosen from a compound chosen from additional oils, waxes, pasty fatty substances, semi-crystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents, dyestuffs, fillers and mixtures thereof.

Additional oils The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition, an additional oil, different from said volatile hydrocarbon oil and said non-volatile oil, as defined above. According to one embodiment, said additional oil is a volatile oil. The additional volatile oil may especially be a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon oil, preferably apolar, or a fluorinated oil. According to a first embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a silicone oil and may in particular be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 102 ° C., preferably having a flash point greater than 55 ° C. C and less than or equal to 95 ° C, and preferably ranging from 65 ° C to 95 ° C. As additional volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a second embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a fluorinated oil, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a third embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a hydrocarbon oil, preferably apolar. The additional apolar volatile hydrocarbon oil may have a flash point ranging from 40 ° C to 102 ° C, preferably from 40 ° C to 55 ° C, and preferably from 40 ° C to 50 ° C. The additional volatile hydrocarbon oil may in particular be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular: C 8 -C 16 branched alkanes, such as iso-alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), Cg-C16, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls; linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and ntétradécane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, an undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis.

According to a particular embodiment, the additional volatile oil (s) can be present in a content ranging from 0 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0, 1 to 20% by weight, and more particularly from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is free of additional volatile oil.

Solid fatty substances The composition considered according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty substance which is solid at ambient temperature and is chosen from waxes and pasty fatty substances. Wax (s) The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax. Preferably, when the composition is in liquid form, it comprises at least one wax. For the purposes of the invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 ° C. up to 120 ° C.

The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. In particular, it is possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-tetrastearate ( trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetra-enehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE. It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. It is also possible to use silicone waxes which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at low melting point. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made especially of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC). The silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C20-C60) alkyldimethicones, in particular especially (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.

It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as, for example, siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax by Koster Keunen. The waxes may also be chosen from fluorinated waxes. The wax or waxes may be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, especially from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises less than 6% by weight of waxes, relative to its total weight.

Paste fat body The composition considered according to the invention may further comprise at least one pasty fatty substance. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and having at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of paste or wax (as the case may be) placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty or wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C. consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

The pasty fatty substance may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines, the compounds polymeric or non-polymeric silicone polymers such as polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular weight, polydimethylsiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially stearyl dimethicones, polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers, especially - olefin homopolymers, - olefin copolymers, - homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, - linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates, preferably having a grouping C 8 -C 30 alkyl; homo and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having C 6 -C 20 alkyl groups; C30, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 6 -C 30 alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more diols in C 2 -C 10 0, preferably C 2 -C 50, the esters and the polyesters , and their mixtures. The pasty fatty substance may be a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer.

A preferred silicone and fluoro pasty fatty substance is polymethyl-trifluoropropyl-methylalkyl-dimethylsiloxane, manufactured under the name X22-1088 by SHIN ETSU. When the pasty fatty substance is a silicone and / or fluorinated polymer, the composition advantageously comprises a compatibilizing agent such as short chain esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate. Among the liposoluble polyethers, there may be mentioned copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C6-C30 alkylenes oxides. Preferably, the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to alkylene oxides in the copolymer is 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will be made in particular of block copolymers comprising blocks of C6-C30 alkylene oxides having a molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecylene glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers. (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 oxyethylene or EO units) marketed under the trademark 15 ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel. Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those sold under the trade name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol; the phytosterol esters; pentaerythritol esters; Esters formed from: at least one C 16 -40 alcohol, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol and a diacid dimer formed from at least one C unsaturated fatty acid; 18-409 as the tall oil fatty acid dimer ester comprising 36 carbon atoms and a mixture of i) Guerbet alcohols comprising 32 carbon atoms and ii) behenyl alcohol; the dimer ester of linoleic acid and a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyl-octadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecyl-eicosanol (36 carbon atoms); non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 20 dicarboxylic acid or a polycarboxylic acid and a C2-050 diol or polyol; polyesters which result from the esterification between a polycarboxylic acid and a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid ester, such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H marketed by the Japanese company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, which are esters resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid; and the aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification between an aliphatic hydroxyl carboxylic acid ester and an aliphatic carboxylic acid, for example that sold under the trade name Salacos HCIS (V) -L by the company Nishing Oil.

Guerbet alcohol is the reaction product of the Guerbet reaction well known to those skilled in the art. This is a reaction converting a primary aliphatic alcohol to its dimer alcohol (3-alkylated with loss of one equivalent of water.) The aliphatic carboxylic acids described above generally comprise from 4 to 30 and preferably from at 30 carbon atoms, preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof The aliphatic carboxylic acids are preferably branched aliphatic carboxylic acid esters hydroxylated are advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid esters are in particular chosen from: a) the esters, partial or total, of linear, saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) esters, partial or total, of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) the esters, partial or total, of polyhydric aliphatic saturated monohydroxy carboxylic acids; d) the esters, partial or total, of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) the esters, partial or total, of C 1 -C 16 aliphatic polyols reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono- or polycarboxylic acid, f) and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic ester esters are advantageously chosen from: the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions 1 to 1 (1/1), which is called hydrogenated castor oil monoisostearate; - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 2 (1/2), which is called diisostearate d hydrogenated castor oil, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions 1 to 3 (1/3), which is called the oil triisostearate of hydrogenated castor, and mixtures thereof. The pasty fatty substance (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, especially from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition used according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the abovementioned compounds, at least one structuring or thickening agent chosen from semi-crystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof.

Lipophilic Gelling Agents The gelling agents that may be used according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents. As inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl-dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS. It may also be fumed silica.

The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C0 and Trefil. E-506C0 by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF100, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular C1 groups; at C3, "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type block copolymers of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylenepropylene) type; ) such as those sold under the name Kratori by Shell Chemical Co., or else from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by PENRECO company under the name Versagel® such as for example the mixture of triblock butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymer and star copolymer ethylene / propylene ne / styrene in isododecane (Versagel M 5960), and mixtures thereof. Lipophilic gelling agents that may also be mentioned include polymers having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbon-based repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one fatty chain. pendant and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to these hydrocarbon units, as described in applications WO-A-02/056847, WO-A-02/47619 ; in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5783657. As an example of a polyamide resin that can be used according to the present invention, there may be mentioned UNICLEAR 100 VG® marketed by ARIZONA CHEMICAL.

Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those marketed under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the CHIBA FLOUR company. Silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680 may also be used. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of to establish hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

A composition according to the invention may further comprise any additional component usually used in cosmetics, such as dyestuffs, fillers or cosmetic actives. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged.

Dyestuffs A composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise at least one dyestuff which may be chosen from water-soluble or non-fat-soluble dyestuffs, whether or not liposoluble, organic or inorganic, in particular of the pigment or nacre type, conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof. The dyestuffs may be present in a proportion of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition used according to the invention.

The term "pigments" means white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color the resulting deposit. As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and the like. chromium hydrate. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference "COVERLEAF NS" or "JS" by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30.

The dyestuff may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may for example be silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference "PC BALL PC-LL-100 P", this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Calcium and sodium borosilicate in the form of a calcium and sodium borosilicate plate coated with titanium and with tin dioxide (94,25 / 5) can also preferably be used in a composition according to the invention. 25 / 0.5). Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP). described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.

By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a dye. organic and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.

Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the pearls "TIMICA", "FLAMENCO" and "DUOCHROME" (based on mica) marketed by the company ENGELHARD, the pearls "TIMIRON" marketed by the company MERCK, the nacres on "PRESTIGE" mica base marketed by the company ECKART and nacres based on synthetic mica "Sunshine" marketed by the company SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

As an illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of gold-colored nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold for example by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular interferential fibers. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, monomateric or multimaterial; at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and the mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names "STARBRITE 1200 EAC®" by the company SIBERLINE and "METALURE®" by the company ECKART. Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or alloy blends such as the references 2844 marketed by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the names ROTOSAFE 700 of the ECKART company, the silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the name "VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER" by ECKART and the metal alloy particles such as bronze powders (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name from "VISIONAIRE BRIGHT NATURAL GOLD" from ECKART. It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those marketed by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names "MICROGLASS METASHINE". The goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that may be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name "CHROMAFLAIR" by FLEX MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3, and Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3, pigments having these structures being sold under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoSz / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoSz; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / mica-oxide / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3; TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 and TiO 2 / Al 2 O 3 / TiO 2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3; SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name "XIRONA" by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica / titania / tin oxide structure marketed under the name "XIRONA MAGIC" by the company MERCK, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name "XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER" by the company MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structural pigments marketed under the name "XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE" by the company MERCK. We can also mention the pigments "INFINITE COLORS" from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe.sub.2 O.sub.3 / SiO.sub.2 / AU.sub.2O.sub.2 / Fe.sub.2 O.sub.3 structure, grey-green to gray-red is passed for SiO.sub.2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm. Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by 3M under the name "COLOR GLITTER". As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible, for example, to use those sold by CHENIX as well as those marketed under the name "HELICONE® HC" by WACKER. Liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 , yellow quinoline. Charts A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature. By "filler" is meant colorless or solid, solid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition, and / or softness, and uniformity to make-up. They are distinct from the dyestuffs. Among the fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of silica, kaolin, bentone, starch, lauroyl-lysine, fumed silica particles, optionally hydrophilic or hydrophobic, and mixtures thereof. .

A composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprising comprises at least one compound chosen from fillers, waxes, pasty fatty substances, semi-crystalline polymers and / or lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof. Additional Usual Cosmetic Ingredients A composition used according to the invention may furthermore comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, moisturizers, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-free radical agents, sequestering agents, film-forming polymers and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not impaired by the addition envisaged.

A composition according to the invention may be more particularly a composition for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips, in particular lips, and more particularly a lipstick. A composition according to the invention may constitute a blush, an eyeshadow, a foundation, a concealer, a lipstick, a liquid lipstick for the lips such as a gloss by for example, a body make-up product, a facial or body care product or an antisolar product. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention is in liquid form. By way of illustration of the liquid formulations, particular mention may be made of liquid lipsticks, such as a gloss for example. The composition according to the invention may be manufactured by the known processes generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.

As specified above, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to access a deposit having good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of resistance (and in particular of keeping the color of the deposit on the skin or the lips), of gloss and of holding in time. The gloss and the resistance can in particular be evaluated in vivo by means of a SEI-M-02232-CHRO-0 Chromasphére as described in patent application FR 2 829 344. The behavior in time of a cosmetic composition reflects its ability to withstand mechanical or physical stresses, such as rubbing or stretching the makeup surface. The evaluation of the outfit is conducted as follows: the outfit is evaluated by applying the composition to the lips of a panel of seven subjects with thick and clear lips, after a series of tests consisting of two "kisses" On a tissue, drink a hot drink then a cold drink and eat two bites of a sandwich and an apple. A composition according to the invention preferably has a color fastness, measured according to the protocol described above, greater than or equal to 50, preferably greater than or equal to 60.

The present invention will be better understood by means of the following examples. These are presented by way of illustration of the invention and can not be interpreted as limiting the scope thereof.

EXAMPLES EXAMPLE 1 to 5 Liquid lipsticks (gloss) Five lip makeup formulas having the compositions shown in Table 1 below were prepared. The percentages given are percentages by weight. Formulas 1 and 2 comprise a polar volatile oil according to the invention (respectively isopropyl hexanoate and dibutoxymethane) and illustrate the invention; Formulas 3 to 5 are comparative compositions in which the volatile oil used is outside the invention (ethanol, cyclopentasiloxane and isododecane, respectively).

TABLE 1 Compounds (non Formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Formula 4 Formula 5 INCI) / References according to comparative comparative comparative commercial the invention the invention (out (out of (invention) invention) invention) Ethylcellulose 20 20 20 20 20 / Aqualon N4 Ethylcellulose of Aqualon Isopropylhexanoate 20 - - - - Dibutoxymethane - 20 - - - / Butylal ultra pure grade of Lambiotte Ethanol - - 20 - - Cyclopentasiloxane - - - - - - Mirasil CM 5 of Bluestar Isododecane - - - - 20 Caprylic / Capric 47,61 47,61 47,61 47,61 47,61 Triglyceride / Myrito1318 from Cognis Sunflower wax 4 4 4 4 4 refined / Sunflower wax by Koster Keunen Red 7 0.59 0.59 0.59 0.59 0.59 Titanium oxide 2.74 2.74 2.74 2.74 2.74 Blue 1 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.16 Yellow lake lacquer 6 2.58 2.58 2, 58 2.58 2.58 Black Iron Oxide 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 Mica (and) 2 2 2 2 2 Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxides / Cloisonne Sparkle Gold 222 J of BASF Personal Care Ingredients Total 100 100 100 100 100 Pr The pigments are milled in a portion of the Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride oil, making three passes of the mixture to the tri-roll mill. The wax and oils are mixed in a Rayneri stirred pan at a temperature of 95-98 ° C. When the mixture is homogeneous, it is brought to a temperature of 70 ° C (except in the case of isododecane for which it is heated to a temperature of 50 ° C), and the ethylcellulose is added by sprinkling it over of the mixture. This is kept stirring (for about 20 to 60 minutes depending on the volatile oil used). The mixture is then brought to 50 ° C. and the pulverulent ground material and mother-of-pearl are finally added and the whole is kept under Rayneri agitation for 5 to 10 minutes. The composition is then poured into sealed boilers and then allowed to cool to 20 ° C.

Visual evaluation of the composition of the formulas and solutions of the composition The appearance of the compositions obtained was evaluated when the mixture was cooled to a temperature of 20 ° C. and after 24 hours at 20 ° C. The appearance of the deposit made with each of the formulas 1 to 5 was evaluated after application on a contrast card and after drying for 24 hours at 35 ° C. The appearance of the make-up deposit made with each of the formulas 1 to 5 was also evaluated immediately after deposition on the lips at a temperature of 20 ° C.

Evaluation of the Cosmetic Properties of the Deposition: Gloss, Shine Holding, and Color Performance The formulations are applied to the lips of a panel of seven subjects with thick, clear lips. The immediate brightness and 1 hour after the application, as well as the color fastness of the deposits made with each of the formulas 1 to 5 thus obtained, were evaluated in vivo by means of a Chromasphère SEI-M-02232-CHRO-0. as described in FR 2 829 344. The gloss is evaluated just after application of the formula and then one hour after application.

The behavior in time of the cosmetic compositions is evaluated according to the protocol described above. The results obtained are presented in the following Table 2.

TABLE 2 Formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Formula 4 Formula 5 according to comparative comparative comparative the invention the invention (except (outside (invention) invention) invention Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous aspect No No homogeneous mixture: homogeneous: 20 ° C. Grains ethyl ethylcellulose ellulo suspended in suspension Aspect of Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous No No homogeneous mixture: homogeneous: 20 ° C after Grains Grains 24h of ethylcellulose of ethylcellulose suspended in suspension Appearance of Easy Deposit, Deposit easy, no Application, application, application, application after non-sticky sticky gloss too much when not possible, not possible, drying 24h to bright flexible deposit (very composition composition 35 ° C flexible difficult to non-homogeneous non-homogeneous apply), and which hangs and who hangs Deposit very much too much. too much. sticky, matte, nonhomogeneous Evaluation Easy deposit Easy deposit on Hook Application, Application, deposit on lips, lips, many not possible, not possible, makeup result result when filing composition composition on lips covering, covering (very difficult non-homogeneous non-homogeneous glossy, non-glossy, not to apply), and which sticks and sticks sticky sticky Deposit too much too much nonmat homogeneous Brightness 278 ± 23 249 ± 25 No Measuring step No measurement TO measurement possible possible possible Brightness â 191 f 18 192 f 24 No Measuring step No measurement possible time possible possible Measuring time 77 ± 14 77 ± 15 No Measuring step No color measurement possible measurement possible possible We observe that with the volatile oils according to the invention, it is possible to obtain homogeneous and stable lip makeup compositions (gloss), the deposition of which on the lips is easy (in accordance with the invention). t at application), homogeneous and non-sticky. In addition, the deposit is shiny and has good gloss resistance and color over time.

On the other hand, with ethanol (formula 3), a homogeneous composition is obtained (the ethylcellulose being soluble in ethanol), but the composition is too sticky and too catchy. It is very difficult to apply and does not allow to obtain a homogeneous deposit. In addition, the deposit obtained is dull. With the comparative compositions comprising isododecane (formula 5) or cyclopentasiloxane (formula 4) as a volatile solvent, it is not possible to obtain a homogeneous dispersion of ethylcellulose during the preparation process, even when increasing the stirring time to homogenize the mixture. The compositions obtained are not homogeneous (grains of ethylcellulose in suspension) and do not make it possible to make a cosmetically acceptable makeup deposit.

Claims (12)

REVENDICATIONS1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one of ethylcellulose, at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from optionally hydroxylated esters; the ethers; dialkoxymethane; carbonates; and their mixtures; and at least one non-volatile oil chosen from ester oils, apolar hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. 2. Composition according to claim 1, said composition being free of C 2 -C 8 mono-alcohols. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising at least 5% by weight of ethylcellulose solids in dispersion, relative to the total weight of said composition, in particular at least 10% by weight, preferably from 10 to 30% by weight. % by weight, in particular at least 20% by weight of ethylcellulose. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from esters and / or dialkoxymethane, in particular isopropylhexanoate and / or dibutoxymethane. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the volatile hydrocarbon oil (es) is (are) present in a content ranging from 5 to 50% by weight. in particular from 8 to 40% by weight, and more particularly from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said non-volatile oil is chosen from ester oils, in particular from vegetable hydrocarbon oils, and more particularly saturated triglycerides, especially capric / caprylic acid triglycerides. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-volatile oil (s) is / are present in a content ranging from 20 to 80% by weight, in particular of 30 to 70% by weight, and more particularly 35 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the volatile hydrocarbon oil and ethylcellulose are used in the composition according to the invention in a weight ratio volatile hydrocarbon oil (s). ethylcellulose ranging from 0.5 to 2, preferably from 0.7 to 1.5, and especially about 1. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one compound chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, semi-crystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents, fillers and mixtures thereof. . 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition is liquid at 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being a makeup composition and / or care of the lips or skin, in particular lips, and more particularly a lipstick. 12. A cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips, in particular the lips, comprising at least one step consisting in applying to the skin and / or the lips at least one composition as defined according to US Pat. any of claims 1 to 11.20