FR2956317A1 - Make up and/or care of skin and/or lips, comprises depositing, on skin and/or lips, at least one layer of composition comprising volatile oil and supramolecular compound in medium, and artificially accelerating the drying of the deposit - Google Patents

Abstract

Process for make up and/or care of skin and/or lips, comprises: (i) depositing, on the skin and/or lips, at least one layer of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a medium, at least 15 wt.% of volatile oil, and at least 15 wt.% of supramolecular compound obtained by reacting at least one oil having at least one nucleophilic reactive function comprising hydroxyl (OH) and amine function (NH 2), and at least one junction group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more partner junction groups; and (ii) artificially accelerating the drying of the deposit. Process for make up and/or care of skin and/or lips, comprises: (i) depositing, on the skin and/or lips, at least one layer of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a medium, at least 15 wt.% of volatile oil, and at least 15 wt.% of supramolecular compound obtained by reacting at least one oil having at least one nucleophilic reactive function comprising hydroxyl (OH) and amine function (NH 2), and at least one junction group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more partner junction groups, each pairing of a junction group involving at least three hydrogen bonds, where the junction group: has at least one isocyanate or imidazole reactive function capable of reacting with the reactive function having oil; and comprises at least one pyrimidin-4-one unit of formula (I) or (II); and (ii) artificially accelerating the drying of the deposit, simultaneously with or after the application by exposure to a blast of air at a temperature of 35-45[deg] C. R1, R3 : divalent carbon radical comprising (i) linear or branched 1-32C alkyl, (ii) 4-16C cycloalkyl and (iii) 4-16C aryl, optionally including 1-8 heteroatoms of O, N, S, F, Si or P, and/or optionally substituted by an ester, amide and/or 1-12C alkyl; R2 : H or carbon group, including linear, branched or cyclic, optionally saturated, optionally aromatic 1-32C hydrocarbon (optionally including one or more heteroatoms of O, N, S, F, Si or P). An independent claim is included for a kit or set (1) of packaging and application, comprising a reservoir containing a composition; a device for applying the composition to the skin or lips; and means (2) for to artificially accelerate the drying of the deposit formed in the application of the composition on the skin or the lips, preferably to provide a blast of air at 35-45[deg] C. [Image].

Description

The present invention relates to a process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips. It also relates to a kit or set of packaging and corresponding application. In general, the cosmetic compositions must impart an aesthetic effect when applied to the skin and the lips, and maintain this aesthetic effect over time. In particular, they must withstand the various external factors that may modify their aesthetic effect, such as sweat or saliva. In particular, cosmetic products, and especially lipsticks, must not migrate into wrinkles or fine lines, or transfer to a fabric. They must also be pleasant to apply and their deposit provide a feeling of comfort over time, while maintaining satisfactory aesthetic properties. It is known, in order to limit the color transfer, to incorporate into the formulas of lipsticks, so-called film-forming polymers. The production of polymer films on the lips can, however, be a source of discomfort for the users, in particular because of the tensions exerted by the film-forming polymers on the labial mucous membrane. It has been proposed, as an alternative to film-forming polymers, to use specific supramolecular compounds that can be obtained from oils carrying at least one nucleophilic reactive functional group chosen from OH and NH 2, or from polymers. In general, the supramolecular compounds, obtainable from oils, are capable of forming a supramolecular chain or network by (self) assembly. They advantageously make it possible to obtain compositions which have good holding and non-transfer properties and which are comfortable to wear.

The supramolecular compounds that can be obtained from non-polymeric oils carrying at least one nucleophilic reactive functional group chosen from OH and NH 2, are more particularly compounds that can be obtained by reaction between such an oil and a junction group capable of to establish hydrogen bonds with one or more joint joining groups, each pairing of a joining group involving at least three hydrogen bonds, said joining group carrying at least one isocyanate or imidazole reactive functional group capable of reacting with the function reactive carried by the oil, said junction group comprising at least in addition at least one unit of formula (I) or (II) as defined below.

The supramolecular compounds that can be obtained from non-polymeric oils carrying at least one nucleophilic reactive functional group chosen from OH and NH 2, referred to for convenience in the context of the present description "supramolecular compounds", are in the form of a solid; this allows in particular to form a non-sticky material, which does not transfer to the finger when applied to a keratinous substrate. However, the compositions incorporating these supramolecular compounds may have the disadvantage, because of the association reactions of these compounds necessary for the formation of a film, to have very long drying times, which are of course not desirable. Therefore, a layer of composition deposited on the skin or the lips may be, after its application and if it does not dry quickly, degraded by contact with foreign bodies, with which it may be brought into contact, such as for example a glass, a cup, a cigarette, a garment or skin.

Therefore, there remains a need for a mode of makeup of the skin and / or lips, compatible with the implementation of supramolecular compounds A, while being free of the disadvantages mentioned above. The present invention aims primarily to meet this need. More specifically, the present invention relates, in one of its aspects, to a method of makeup and / or care of the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least the steps of: i) depositing on the skin and or the lips of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 15% by weight of volatile oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition, and at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition, of supramolecular compound (s) capable (s) to be obtained (s) by reaction between: - at least one oil carrying at least one function reactive nucleophile selected from OH and NHz, and - at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more partner junction groups, each pairing of a junction group involving at least three hydrogen bonds, said joining group at the m oins an isocyanate or imidazole reactive functional group capable of reacting with the reactive function carried by the oil, said joining group also comprising at least one unit of formula (I) or (II): ## STR2 ## NNHùCùNHùR1ù * H

o (I) (II) in which: R1 and R3, which are identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) a linear or branched C1-C32 alkyl group, (ii) a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group; and (iii) a C4-C16 aryl group, optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P, and / or optionally substituted with an ester, amide or a C1-alkyl radical function; -C12, or a mixture of these groups;

R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, hydrocarbon radical, in C1-C32, which may comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F, SietP; and ii) artificially accelerating the drying of the deposition performed in step i), simultaneously or after its application by exposing said deposit to a breath of air having a temperature ranging from 35 to 45 ° C. As is apparent from Example 2 presented below, the inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that the acceleration of the drying of a deposit of a makeup composition formed according to the process of the present invention makes it possible to significantly improve the quality of the resulting film, particularly in terms of homogeneity and strength of the film, compared to a film of the same nature, dried in the open air.

In the context of the present invention, the term "good holding" film, a film that does not disintegrate, in particular, does not crumble, does not spread around the lips, and retains a good intensity. the color of the original makeup. In particular, the color strength of the makeup obtained can be measured according to the protocol described below. For the purposes of the invention, the drying time refers to the time required for the coating layer to form a dry film. In the context of the present invention, this drying time considered is less than or equal to 2 minutes, which is the maximum acceptable time for the user of a makeup product. From this time of 2 minutes, the film must be dry and satisfactory properties mentioned above and in particular in terms of color retention. For the purposes of the invention, the term "artificially drying" denotes any drying induced voluntarily by an auxiliary device, as subsequently developed. This means of accelerating drying is therefore distinct from exposure to a natural wind. A particular advantage of the invention is to allow, with respect to certain compositions (in particular depending on the nature and the content of the ingredients forming in said compositions), the reduction of the drying time to a duration of less than 2. minutes. For example, for certain compositions according to the invention, an optimal holding value can be obtained after only 1 minute, or even 30 seconds of drying according to the invention. The air blast temperature according to the invention is that perceived at the level of the skin or the lips. According to a particular embodiment, this air blast in contact with the lips or the skin may have a temperature ranging from 36 ° C to 41 ° C. A composition used according to the invention may be solid or fluid. In particular, a composition used according to the invention may be in the form of stick or gloss for the lips. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be in the form of cast products or sticks or cup. The term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). According to a second embodiment, the composition according to the invention is solid, and preferably has, at 20 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a hardness greater than 30 Nm.sup.-1, preferably greater than 40.degree. nm.

According to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one solid fatty substance, such as a wax or a pasty fatty substance.

Protocol for Measuring Hardness The hardness of the composition is measured according to the following protocol: The lipstick stick is stored at 20 ° C. for 24 hours before measuring the hardness. The hardness can be measured at 20 ° C. by the so-called "butter-cutting thread" method, which consists in transversely cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical of revolution, with the aid of a rigid tungsten wire. 250 μm diameter by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min. The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm ', is measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by the company INDELCOCHATILLON.

The measurement is repeated three times and averaged. The average of the three values read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newton and divided by L which represents the highest dimension traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

The hardness is converted to Nr -1 by the following equation: (Yx 10-3 x 9.8) / L For a measurement at a different temperature, the stick is kept at this new temperature for 24 hours before the measurement. According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention has a hardness at 20 ° C of greater than or equal to 30 Nm ', preferably greater than 40 Nm', preferably greater than 50 Nm '. Preferably, the composition according to the invention has in particular a hardness at 20 ° C of less than 500 Nm ', especially less than 400 Nm', preferably less than 300 Nm '. In particular, a composition having a hardness greater than 30 Nr -1 is a "solid" composition at 20 ° C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in liquid form. According to this embodiment, it may be in the form of a gloss (liquid lipstick) for example, even more particularly called "liquid gloss" or "lip gloss".

According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a kit or set of packaging and application, comprising a reservoir containing a composition as defined above, a device for applying said composition to the skin or the lips, and a means for intended to artificially accelerate the drying of the deposit formed in the application of said composition on the skin or the lips, and in particular able to provide a breath of air preferably having a temperature ranging from 35 to 45 ° C. The invention will be better understood on reading the following detailed description of exemplary embodiments of the invention and on examining the appended drawing, in which: FIG. 1 is a diagrammatic perspective view; , a packaging and application set 15 according to the invention, adapted for a composition formulated in the form of a stick; - Figure 2 shows schematically in perspective, another set of packaging and application according to the invention, adapted for a composition formulated in the form of a gloss. As is apparent from Example 2 which follows, the method, as well as the kit and application and packaging assembly according to the invention, are particularly advantageous for accessing skin-coating films or coatings. lips with cosmetic properties and more particularly with a color strength greater than that manifested by a film formed on the skin or lips, from the same composition but simply left to dry in the ambient air. Moreover, the drying time required for this film in a single environment is excessive because it is much longer than 2 minutes and therefore unacceptable for the consumer.

Measurement protocol of the color fastness The color retention index of the deposit obtained with the composition used according to the invention is advantageously determined according to the measurement protocol described hereinafter.

It is prepared a support (rectangle 40 mm X 70 mm) consisting of an acrylic coating (hypoallergenic acrylic adhesive on polyethylene film sold under the name BLENDERME No. FHSO00-55113 by the company 3M Health) stuck on a layer of foam of adhesive polyethylene on the opposite side to that on which is fixed the plaster (layer of foam sold under the name RE40X70EP3 of the company JOINT TECHNIQUE LYONNAIS IND). The L * Oa * Ob * 0 color of the support, on the acrylic coating side, is measured using a MINOLTA CR 300 colorimeter. The support thus prepared is preheated on a heating plate maintained at a temperature of 40 ° C. C so that the support surface is maintained at a temperature of 33 ° C ± 1 ° C. While leaving the support on the hot plate, the composition is applied to the entire non-adhesive surface of the support (i.e., on the surface of the acrylic coating) by spreading it with a brush to obtain a deposit of the composition 15 of about 15 microns and then allowed to dry for 2 minutes. After drying, the color L * a * b * of the film thus obtained is measured. The color difference DE1 is then determined between the color of the film with respect to the color of the bare substrate by the following relation.

DE1 = (L * -L. *) 2 + (a * - 0012 + (b * - bo * z) The support is then adhered by its adhesive side (adhesive side of the foam layer) on an anvil of a diameter of 20 mm and provided with a screw thread A specimen of the support / deposit assembly is then cut with a punch with a diameter of 18 mm The anvil is then screwed on a press (MANUAL STATIF IMADA SV-2 from the company SOMECO) equipped with a dynamometer (IMADA DPS-20 from the company 25 SOMECO) A white paper for photocopier weighing 80g / m is placed on the base of the press then the test piece placed on the paper web box was pressed at a pressure of about 300 g / cm 2 exerted for 30 seconds and after removal of the test piece a portion of the deposit was transferred to the paper. the color L * ', a *', b * 'of the deposit remained on the specimen, the color difference DE2 is then determined between the color of the deposit remaining on the specimen compared to to the color of the bare support by the following relation.

DE2 = L * '- Lo * a *' - 0) 2 ± (b * '- b0) 2 The strength rating of the composition, expressed as a percentage, is equal to the ratio: 100X DE2 / DE1 The measurement can be performed on two supports in succession and the holding value corresponds to the average of the two measurements obtained with the two supports.

COSMETIC COMPOSITION Supramolecular compound according to the invention As mentioned above, a cosmetic composition to be applied according to stage i) of the process according to the invention comprises, in a proportion of at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition of supramolecular compound (s) likely to be obtained by reaction between: at least one oil bearing at least one nucleophilic reactive functional group chosen from OH and NHz, and at least one group of junction capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more joint joining groups, each pairing of a joining group involving at least three hydrogen bonds, said joining group carrying at least one isocyanate or imidazole reactive functional group capable of reacting with the reactive function carried by the oil, said junction group further comprising at least one unit of formula (I) or (II) as defined above. In particular, the supramolecular compound (s) according to the invention may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 15% to 80% by weight, preferably from 20% to 70% by weight. from 25 to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition. The supramolecular compounds of the compositions according to the invention may be obtained by reaction between: at least one oil carrying at least one nucleophilic reactive functional group chosen from OH and NHz, and at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more joint joining groups, each pairing of a linking group involving at least 3 hydrogen bonds, said linking group carrying at least one isocyanate or imidazole reactive functional group capable of reacting with the reactive function carried by the oil, said linking group further comprising at least one unit of formula (I) or (II): ## STR2 ## wherein: ## STR1 ## R1 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) a linear or branched C1-C32 alkyl group, (ii) a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group and (iii) an aryl group. C4-C16; optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; and / or optionally substituted with an ester, amide or a C1-C12 alkyl radical; or a mixture of these groups; R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, hydrocarbon radical, in C1-C32, which may comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F, Si and P.

In the end, the supramolecular compounds according to the invention therefore comprise at least one part (HB) originating from the oil and at least one part (G) originating from the joining group, said part (G) comprising at least one unit of formula (I) or (II). In particular, said parts (HB) and (G) are connected by a covalent bond, in particular can be connected by a covalent bond formed during the reaction between the OH and / or NH 2 reactive functional groups carried by the oil and the isocyanate functions carried. by the junction group or between the reactive functions NH2 carried by the oil and the isocyanate or imidazole functions carried by the junction group. It is thus possible, in particular, to schematize the preferential obtaining of the supramolecular compounds according to the invention by the chemical reaction between the following entities: (HB) - (OH) m (NH 2) n + (G) - (NCO) p or ( HB) - (OH) m (NH 2) n + (G) - (imidazole) p with m, n and p being non-zero integers.

Oil for the preparation of the supramolecular compound according to the invention The oil which can be used to prepare the supramolecular compound according to the invention, which can preferably be schematized (HB) - (OH) m (NH 2) n, is a non-crystalline fatty substance or fatty substance mixture at 25 ° C., liquid at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure (25 ° C., 1 atm.), preferably apolar, or even preferably not soluble with water. Preferably, the oil that can be used to prepare the supramolecular compound according to the invention is non-polymeric. By liquid is meant that the viscosity of the compound is less than or equal to 2500 centipoise, at 110 ° C., 1 atm., Measured with a Brookfield DV-I or Brookfield Cap 1000+ rheometer, the person skilled in the art choosing apparatus suitable for measuring viscosity. "Apolar" means a compound whose HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) value is low, in particular less than or equal to 8, preferably less than or equal to 4, and more preferably less than or equal to 2; preferentially, the value of HLB must be sufficiently low to make it possible to obtain a supramolecular material which is not, or not too much, hygroscopic. By non-soluble it is meant that the fraction of oil which can dissolve in water, at 25 ° C., 1 atm., Is less than 5% by weight (ie 5 g of oil in 100 ml of water ); preferably less than 3%. By fatty substance is meant in particular but not exclusively, a hydrocarbon compound comprising one or more alkyl chains, linear, cyclic, branched, saturated or unsaturated, having at least 6 carbon atoms and may comprise polar groups such as an acid group, a hydroxyl or polyol, amine, amide, phosphoric acid, phosphate, ester, ether, urea, carbamate, thiol, thioether, thioester, this chain may contain up to 100 carbon atoms. Preferably, the oil which can be used to prepare the supramolecular compound according to the invention is a glossy oil, that is to say having a refractive index of greater than or equal to 1.45 at 25.degree. especially between 1.45 to 1.6 (the refractive index being defined with respect to the line D of sodium, at 25 ° C). Preferably, the oil that can be used to prepare the supramolecular compound according to the invention is a non-volatile oil. By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

Preferably, the oil has a molar mass (Mw) of between 150 and 6000, especially between 170 and 4000, or even between 180 and 2000, preferably between 200 and 1500, and more preferably between 220 and 800 g / mol.

The oil that can be used in the context of the present invention to prepare the supramolecular compound according to the invention carries at least one reactive functional group capable of reacting with the reactive function carried on the linking group, in particular capable of reacting chemically with isocyanate or imidazole groups carried by the linking group; preferably, this function is an OH or NH 2 function.

Preferably, the oil comprises only OH functions, in particular 1 to 3 OH functions, preferably primary or secondary OH functions, and even more preferably only primary. The oil according to the present invention is preferably a carbonaceous oil, in particular a hydrocarbon oil, which, in addition to the reactive functional group capable of reacting with the linking group, may comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus. The oil is very preferably selected from cosmetically acceptable oils. The oil that can be used in the context of the present invention to prepare the supramolecular compound according to the invention may be chosen from: (i) fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 50 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 1 or more OH; optionally comprising one or more NH 2. Mention may in particular be made of: linear or branched C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 32, in particular C 8 -C 28, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohols, and in particular isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and oleic alcohol; , oleyl alcohol, isopalmitoyl alcohol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-octyl decanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-octyltetradecanol, 2-decyltetradecanol, 2-dodecyl hexadecanol, and in particular the alcohols sold under the name Jarcol by Jarchem Industries, such as Jarcol I-12, Jarcol I-16, Jarcol I-20 and Jarcol I-24; linear or branched C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 40, in particular C 8 -C 38, saturated or unsaturated, and especially branched C 32 -C 36 diols, and in particular the commercial product Pripol 2033 from Uniqema; linear or branched triols of C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 32, in particular C 8 -C 28, saturated or unsaturated, and especially phytantriol;

(ii) esters and ethers bearing at least one free OH group, and in particular esters and partial polyol ethers, and hydroxylated carboxylic acid esters. By partial polyol ester is meant the esters prepared by esterification of a polyol with a carboxylic acid, substituted or unsubstituted, the reaction not being total, that is to say not carried out on all the free OH of the polyol; in the end, the ester therefore still has at least one free OH.

Preferably, the carboxylic acid is a monoacid. It is also possible to use a mixture of carboxylic acids, in particular monocarboxylic acids. Partial polyol ether is understood to mean the ethers prepared by etherification of a polyol, on itself or with at least one other alcohol, mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably monoalcohol, the etherification reaction not being complete, c that is, not performed on all the free OHs of the polyol; in the end, the ether still has at least one free OH. By hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is meant the esters (mono and poly) prepared by reaction between a carboxylic acid carrying at least one OH function, and one or more alcohols (mono or poly), preferably monoalcohol, the reaction being total or partial (carried out on all or part of the free OH of the alcohol) Among the polyols that may be used to prepare the esters or ethers above, mention may be made of propylene glycol, glycerol, neopentyl glycol, trimethylolpropane trimethylolethane, polyglycerols and in particular polyglycerol-2, polyglycerol-3 and polyglycerol-10; erythritol, dipentaerythritol, pentaerythritol, di-trimethylolpropane, phytantriol, sucrose, glucose, methylglucose, sorbitol, fructose, xylose, mannitol, glucosamine; as well as diol dimers in particular obtained from dimeric fatty acids, especially C32-C38 branched diols, especially C36, aliphatic and / or alycyclic diols, such as those defined in the Hofer et al. European Coating Journal (March 2000), pages 26-37; and their mixtures.

Among the monoalcohols that may be used to prepare the above esters or ethers, mention may be made of linear or branched, preferably branched C 3 -C 20 alcohols, and in particular 2-ethylhexanol, octanol, alcohol and the like. isostearyl, and mixtures thereof.

Among the carboxylic acids which may be used to prepare the above esters or ethers, mention may be made of monoacids having 6 to 50 carbon atoms and diacids having 3 to 12 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, among which may be mentioned octyldodecyl acid, hexyldecyl acid, ethylhexylic acid, isostearic acid, nonanoic acid, isononanoic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, oxalic acid, adipic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, capric acid, hexanedioic acid, decyl acid, decanoic acid, and their mixtures. Among the hydroxylated carboxylic acids that may be used to prepare the above esters or ethers, mention may be made of monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated acids, preferably monohydroxylated, having 4 to 28 carbon atoms for example, and in particular 12- hydroxystearic acid, ricinoleic acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof. Thus, the oil that can be used in the present invention to prepare the supramolecular compound A1 can be chosen from, alone or as a mixture: the partial esters of pentaerythritol, and in particular pentaerythrityl adipate, pentaerythrityl caprate, pentaerythrityl succinate, pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate, pentaerythrityl triisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl triisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetradecyltetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctyl dodecanoate; dipentaerythritol diesters, triesters, tetraesters or pentaesters, and especially dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisostearate, dipentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, dipentaerythrityl tri (polyhydroxystearate); trimethylolpropane mono- and di-esters such as trimethylolpropane monoisostearate, trimethylolpropane di-isostearate, trimethylolpropane monoethyl-2-hexylate, trimethylolpropane diethyl-2-hexylate; di-trimethylolpropane mono-, di- and tri-esters such as di-trimethylolpropane diisostearate, di-trimethylolpropane triisostearate, di-trimethylolpropane tri-ethylhexanoate; the mono-esters or partial polyesters of glycerol or polyglycerols, and especially: glycerol di-isostearate, glycerol di-isononanoate, polyglycerol-2 mono-, di- and tri-esters; for example with isostearic acid, 2-ethyl hexyl acid and / or isononanoic acid; and in particular polyglyceryl-2-isostearate; polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate; polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; polyglyceryl-2-nonaisostearate; polyglyceryl-2-nonanoate; mono-, di-, tri- or tetra-esters of polyglycerol-3; for example with either isostearic acid, 2-ethyl hexyl acid and / or isononanoic acid; and especially polyglyceryl-3-isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate; polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate; polyglyceryl-3-nonaisostearate; polyglyceryl-3-nonanoate; partial esters of polyglycerol-10 and in particular polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate; polyglyceryl-10-nonanoate; polyglyceryl-10-isostearate, polyglyceryl-10-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 triisostearate; propylene glycol monoesters such as propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol neopentanoate, propylene glycol monooctanoate; monoesters of dimers-diols such as isostearyl dimer dilinoleate and octyl dodecyl dimer dilinoleate; glycerol ethers, such as polyglyceryl-2-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl-3-cetyl ether, polyglyceryl-3-decyltetradecyl ether and polyglyceryl-2-stearyl ether; esters between hydroxylated mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acid and monoalcohols, and in particular: esters, in particular monoesters, of 12-hydroxystearic acid; such as octyl hydroxystearate and octyl-2-dodecyl hydroxystearate; mention may also be made of the corresponding oligomeric polyhydroxystearates, in particular having a degree of polymerization of 1 to 10, having at least one residual OH; esters of lactic acid, and in particular C4-40 alkyl lactates, such as 2-ethylhexyl lactate, diisostearyl lactate, isostearyl lactate, isononyl lactate, lactate, 2-octyldodecyl; malic acid esters, and in particular C4-40 alkyl malates, such as 2-diethyl hexyl malate, diisostearyl malate, 2-dioctyl dodecyl malate; esters of citric acid, and in particular C4-40 alkyl citrates, such as triisostearyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate and tri-isoarachidyl citrate. (iii) natural, modified natural oils, vegetable, hydroxylated and in particular: - triglycerine esters carrying one or more OH, - castor oil, hydrogenated or not, and its derivatives in particular from the transesterification of the oil castor oil; like the Polycin M-365 or Polycin 2525 products sold by Vertellus; modified epoxidized oils, the modification consisting of opening the epoxy function to obtain a diol, and especially hydroxylated modified soybean oil; hydroxylated soybean oils (directly hydroxylated or first epoxidized); and in particular Agrol 2.0, Agrol 3.0 or Agrol 7.0 oils marketed by BioBased Technologies, LLC; Soyol oil R2-052 from Urethane Soy System; Renuva oils marketed by Dow Chemical; BioH Polyol 210 and 500 oils marketed by Cargill.

According to a first particularly preferred embodiment, the oil that can be used to prepare the supramolecular compound in the context of the present invention is chosen from fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 50 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 1 or more OH; optionally comprising one or more NH 2, such as: linear or branched C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 32, in particular C 8 -C 28, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohols, and in particular isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isopalmitoyl alcohol, butyl-2-octanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-octyl decanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-octyltetradecanol, 2-decyltetradecanol, 2-dodecyl hexadecanol, and especially the alcohols sold under the name Jarcol by Jarchem Industries, such as Jarcol I-12, Jarcol I-16, Jarcol I-20 and Jarcol I- 24; linear or branched C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 40, in particular C 8 -C 38, saturated or unsaturated diols, and in particular C 32 -C 36 branched diols, and in particular the commercial product Pripol 2033 from Uniqema; linear or branched triols of C 6 -C 50, in particular C 6 -C 32, in particular C 8 -C 38, which are saturated or unsaturated, and in particular phytantriol.

According to this first preferred embodiment, the oil that can be used to prepare the supramolecular compound in the context of the present invention is preferably chosen from linear or branched C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 32, monohydric alcohols, in particular C8-C28, saturated or unsaturated, and in particular isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isopalmitoyl alcohol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-hexyl decanol, , 2-octyl decanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-octyltetradecanol, 2-decyltetradecanol, 2-dodecyl hexadecanol, and especially the alcohols sold under the name Jarcol by the company Jarchem Industries, such as Jarcol I-12, Jarcol I-16, Jarcol I-20 and Jarcol I-24.

According to a second particularly preferred embodiment, the oil that can be used to prepare the supramolecular compound in the context of the present invention is chosen from esters between hydroxylated mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acid and monoalcohols, and in particular: esters, in particular monoesters, of 12-hydroxystearic acid; such as octyl hydroxystearate and octyl-2-dodecyl hydroxystearate; mention may also be made of the corresponding oligomeric polyhydroxystearates, in particular having a degree of polymerization of 1 to 10, having at least one residual OH; esters of lactic acid, and in particular C4-C40 alkyl lactates, such as 2-ethylhexyl lactate, diisostearyl lactate, isostearyl lactate, isononyl lactate, lactate, 2-octyldodecyl; esters of malic acid, and in particular C4-C40 alkyl malates, such as 2-diethyl-hexyl malate, diisostearyl malate, 2-dioctyl dodecyl malate; citric acid esters, and especially C4-C40 alkyl citrates, such as triisostearyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate and tri-isoarachidyl citrate.

According to this second preferred embodiment, the oil which may be employed in the context of the present invention is preferably chosen from the esters of hydroxylated dicarboxylic acid and monoalcohols, and in particular of malic acid, and in particular malates. C4-C40 alkyls, such as 2-diethyl hexyl malate, diisostearyl malate, 2-dioctyl dodecyl malate.

In particular, when using glossy oils, the following glossy oils can be employed, for which the refractive index at 25 ° C is indicated between parentheses: polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate (1.472), phytantriol ( 1,467), castor oil (1,475), octyl-2-dodecanol (1.46), oleyl alcohol (1.461), octyl hydroxystearate (1.46), polyglyceryl-2- isostearate (1.468), polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate (1.464), diisostearyl malate (1.462), butyl-2-octanol, 2-hexyl decanol (1.45), decyl-2-tetradecanol (1.457), as well as their mixtures. Preferably, the oils which may be employed in the present invention for preparing the supramolecular compound according to the invention are chosen from octyl-2-dodecanol, diisostearyl malate, butyl-2-octanol and hexyl-2. decanol, decyl-2-tetradecanol; castor oil, hydrogenated or not, as well as its derivatives; hydroxylated modified soybean oil, and mixtures thereof.

Joining group for the preparation of the supramolecular compound according to the invention The linking group that can be used to form the supramolecular compound according to the invention carries at least one reactive group, in particular isocyanate or imidazole, capable of reacting with the reactive functions , especially OH and / or NH2 (NH2 only for imidazole), oil, in order to form a covalent bond, especially of urethane type, between said oil and said joining group.

In a preferred manner, the linking group that can be used to form the supramolecular compound of the compositions according to the invention carries at least one reactive group, in particular isocyanate. For the purposes of the invention, the term "linking group" means any functional group comprising donor or acceptor groups of H bonds, and capable of establishing at least three H bonds, preferably at least four H bonds, preferably four H bonds, with a partner junction group, identical or not. For the purposes of the invention, the term "partner joining group" means any joining group capable of establishing H bonds with one or more joining groups of the same or another polymer according to the invention. The joining groups can be of identical or different chemical nature. If they are identical, they can then establish H links between them and are then called self-complementary join groups. If they are different, they are chosen so that they are complementary to the H interactions.

Said linking group, bearing isocyanate groups, can therefore be schematized (G) - (NCO) p, p being a non-zero integer, preferably equal to 1 or 2. The joining group also comprises at least one monovalent unit of formula (I) and / or at least one divalent unit of formula (II), as defined below:

Wherein R 1 and R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) embedded image in which R 1 and R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) a linear or branched C1-C32 alkyl group, (ii) a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group and (iii) a C4-C16 aryl group; optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; and / or optionally substituted with an ester, amide or a C1-C12 alkyl radical; or a mixture of these groups; R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, C 1 -C 32 hydrocarbon (alkyl) radical, which may comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S; , F, Si and P. Preferably, the linking group also comprises at least one monovalent unit of formula (I). In particular, the radical R1 can be: a divalent alkylene group, linear or branched, C 2 -C 12, in particular a 1,2-ethylene, 1,6-hexylene, 1,4-butylene, 1,6- (2-group) group; 4,4-trimethylhexylene), 1,4- (4-methylpentylene), 1,5- (5-methylhexylene), 1,6- (6-methylheptylene), 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene) ), 1,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylen) - a divalent C4-C12 cycloalkylene or arylene group, especially chosen from the following radicals: isophorone-, tolylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene, 4 -methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4'-méthylènebiscyclohexylène; 4,4-bisphénylèneméthylène; The term "isophorone" means the divalent radical of structure: Preferably, R 1 represents isophorone, - (CH 2) 6- or 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene. In particular, the radical R 2 can in particular be H, or else: a C 1 -C 32, in particular C 1 -C 16 or even C 1 -C 10 alkyl group; a C4-C12 cycloalkyl group; a C4-C12 aryl group; a C 1 -C 12 aryl (C 1 -C 12) alkyl group; a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group; an arylalkoxy group, in particular a (C 1 -C 4) aryl alkoxy group; a C4-C12 heterocycle or a combination of these radicals, which may optionally be substituted by an amino, ester and / or hydroxyl function. Preferably, R2 is H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9). Preferably, R.sub.3 represents a divalent radical R.sup.R'.sub.3 -OC (O) -NH-R.sup.4- in which R.sup.3 and R.sup.4, identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from a linear or branched alkyl group C1-C32 or a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group or a C4-C16 aryl group, or a mixture thereof.

In particular, R'3 and R'4 may represent methylene, 1,2-ethylene, 1,6-hexylene, 1,4-butylene, 1,6- (2,4,4-trimethylhexylene) (4-methylpentylene), 1,5- (5-methylhexylene); 1,6- (6-méthylheptyléne); 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene), 1,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylene); 4,4'-méthylénebiscyclohexyléne; 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4'-bisphénylèneméthylène; 1,2-tolylene, 1,4-tolylene, 2,4-tolylene, 2,6-tolylene; 1,5-naphthylene; tetramethylxylylene; isophorone. In particular, R'3 may represent a C1-C4 alkylene, especially 1,2-ethylene. Preferably, R'4 may represent the divalent radical derived from isophorone. In particular, R3 can be of structure: H33 \ H3

In a particularly preferred manner, in the formula (I), there may be: 5 -R1 = -isophorone-, R2 = methyl, which leads to the unit of formula: ## STR2 ## ) 6, R2 = methyl, which leads to the unit of formula: HH 1 1 ONN

## STR2 ## where R 2 = isopropyl, which leads to the unit of formula: H H 1 1 ONN

## STR2 ## where R 2 = methyl, which leads to the unit of formula: embedded image

In a particularly preferred embodiment, in formula (II), R 1 represents the radical -isophorone, R 2 = methyl and R 3 = - (CH 2) 2000-NH-isophorone, which leads to with the divalent unit of formula: ## STR2 ## The joining groups bearing a single isocyanate function may be of formula:

1 IN

Wherein R1 and R2 are as defined above; and especially :

R1 is-isophorone, - (CH2) 6-, -CH2CH (CH3) -CH2-C (CH3) 2-CH2-CH2, 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; and / or R2 is H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9). Preferably, the linking groups may be chosen from the following groups: ## STR1 ## ## STR1 ## ## STR2 ## junction bearing two isocyanate functions may be of O

OCN ù R3. - 1 IN

Wherein R1, R2 and R3 are as defined above, and in particular: R1 represents -isophorone-, - (CH2) 2-, - (CH2) 6-, -CH2CH (CH3) -CH2 -C (CH3) 2-CH2-CH2, H, NH4NCO4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; and / or - R2 is H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9); and / or R3 represents a divalent radical R'3-OC (O) -NH-R'4- in which R'3 and R'4, which are identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from a linear alkyl group or branched C1-C30 or a C4-C12 cycloalkyl group or a C4-C12 aryl group; or their mixtures; and in particular R'3 represents a C1-C4 alkylene, especially 1,2-ethylene and R'4 represents the divalent radical derived from isophorone.

A particularly preferred joining group is that of the formula: embedded image Among the junction groups bearing an imidazole group, there may be mentioned the following compound: ## STR2 ## According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the Junction groups can be attached to the oil via functionalization of the junction group by an isocyanate or imidazole. According to another embodiment, it is possible to make the reverse reaction by prefunctionalizing the oil with a diisocyanate.

As mentioned above (1st mode), the supramolecular compound according to the invention can thus result from the chemical reaction between an oil (HB) - (OH) m (NH 2) n and a linking group (G) - ( NCO) p or (G) - (imidazole) p. Preferably, the supramolecular compound according to the invention comprises only hydroxyl functional groups and the linking group comprises 1 or 2 isocyanate functional groups, which leads to the following reactions: (HB) - (OH) ,,, + OCN- (G) ) -NCO * (HB) -OC (O) NH- (G) -NHC (O) - (HB) (HB) - (OH) n + (G) -NCO * (HB) -OC (0) ) NH- (G) with m = integer greater than or equal to 1. Preferably, the grafting rate of free OH of the oil is between 1 and 100%, especially between 20 and 99%, and better still between 50 and 95%; preferably, this level is 100% (all the free OH is functionalized by a linking group), especially when the oil initially comprises only one OH function. The supramolecular compound of the compositions according to the invention may be prepared by the methods usually employed by those skilled in the art to form a urethane linkage between the free OH functions of the oil and the isocyanate functional groups carried by the linking group. By way of illustration, a general method of preparation consists in: ensuring that the oil to be functionalized contains no residual water, heating the oil comprising at least one reactive functional group, in particular OH, to a temperature ranging from 60 ° C to 140 ° C; add the junction group carrying the reactive functions, in particular isocyanate; Optionally stirring the mixture, under a controlled atmosphere, at a temperature of the order of 100-130 ° C .; for 1 to 24 hours; - follow by infrared spectroscopy, the disappearance of the isocyanate characteristic band (between 2500 and 2800 cm-1) so as to stop the reaction to the total disappearance of the peak, then allow the final product to return to ambient temperature. The reaction may be carried out in the presence of a solvent, especially methyltetrahydrofuran, tetrahydrofuran, toluene or butyl acetate; the reaction can also be carried out without solvent, whereby the oil can serve as a solvent. It is also possible to add a conventional catalyst for urethane bond formation. By way of example, mention may be made of dibutyl tin dilaurate. The supramolecular compound can ultimately be washed and dried, or even purified, according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art. According to the second embodiment, the reaction may comprise the following steps: (i) functionalization of the oil with a diisocyanate according to the reaction scheme: (HB) -OH (1 eq.) + NCO-X-NCO (1 eq. (Ii) -OC (O) -NH-X-NCO 10 and then (iia) is reaction with 6-methylisocytosine: Me Me (HB) -OC (O) -NX-NCO + N NH2 NOO N

(HB) -OC (O) NiXNNNO or (iib) or reaction with 5-hydroxyethyl-6-methylisocytosine: Me (HB) -OC (O) -NX-NCO + N ~ / OH NH2 NO Me ## STR5 ## An illustration of such a reaction is given in FOLMER et al., Adv. Mater, 12, 874-78 (2000). The supramolecular compounds according to the invention can in particular respond to the following structures: functionalized octyldodecanol ureidopyrimidone of structure: ## STR1 ## Or structure: - functionalized diisostearyl malate ureidopyrimidone of structure: ## STR1 ## ## STR1 ## isostearyl Or of structure: isostearyl OO-NO Oisostearyl OON isostearyl OO N NOH O OHHO 1 isostearyl - the functionalized castor oil ureidopyrimidone of structure: or of structure: OH - l ' 2-hexyl decanol functionalized ureidopyrimidone structure: Or of structure: - 2-decyltetradecanol functionalized ureidopyrimidone structure: or of structure:

O Nest NNN) N \ O .K H H

According to a particular embodiment, the supramolecular compound according to the invention is the functionalized diisostearyl malate ureidopyrimidone. Preferably, the supramolecular compound of the compositions according to the invention has a viscosity, measured at 125 ° C., of between 30 and 6000 mPa.s, in particular between 150 and 4000 mPa.s, and even between 500 and 3500 mPa.s and even more better between 750 and 3000 mPa.s. The supramolecular compound according to the invention preferably has a number-average molecular weight (Mn) ranging from 180 to 8000, preferably from 200 to 6000, or even from 300 to 4000, and more preferably from 400 to 3000, preferably from 500 to at 1500.

The supramolecular compound of the compositions according to the invention is advantageously soluble in the oily cosmetic media usually employed, and in particular in vegetable oils, C 6 -C 32 alkanes, C 8 -C 32 fatty esters, C 2 -C 7 short esters, C8-C32 fatty alcohols, and more particularly in media comprising at least isododecane, Parleam, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, alone or in admixture. "Soluble" means that the supramolecular compound forms a clear solution in at least one solvent chosen from isododecane, Parleam, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, at least 50% by weight, at 25 ° C. Examples of supramolecular compounds which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, and their preparation, are developed in Example 1 presented below.

Volatile oils As specified above, a composition to be applied according to the invention comprises one or more volatile oil (s) in a proportion of at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

In particular, the volatile oil (s) may be present in a composition to be applied according to the invention in a content ranging from 15% to 50% by weight, and more particularly from 20% to 40%. by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ). The volatile oil may be a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon oil or a fluorinated oil. at. Silicone oil According to a variant of the invention, the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one volatile silicone oil.

By "silicone oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups. The volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 150 ° C., preferably having a flash point greater than 55 ° C. and less than or equal to 105 ° C. and preferably ranging from 65 ° C to 95 ° C. The flash point is in particular measured according to the ISO 3679 standard. The volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms. By way of example of such oils, there may be mentioned octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane or D5), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4), dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), KF 96 A of Shin Etsu, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning. b. Hydrocarbon Oil According to a variant of the invention, the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil. By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. The volatile hydrocarbon oils (also called solvents) may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins). such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars' or permetyls, branched esters of Cg-C16 isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, can also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

As other volatile hydrocarbon solvents (oils) that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of ketones which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone or acetone; short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate; ethers which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; alcohols and in particular linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the oil (s) is / are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes. In particular, the volatile oil may be isododecane.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM A composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, that is to contain a physiologically acceptable medium that is non-toxic and may be applied to the skin or lips of humans. By cosmetically acceptable is meant in the sense of the invention a composition of appearance, smell and pleasant touch. This physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. More precisely, the nature and the content of the various compounds are adapted according to, for example, that the composition will be formulated in the form of a stick or lip gloss. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 3%, or better, less than 1% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, the composition is completely anhydrous. By anhydrous is meant in particular that the water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition.

Greasy phase The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a liquid fatty phase, which may constitute a solvent medium for the supramolecular compounds according to the invention.

The composition to be applied according to the process of the present invention may comprise, in addition to the volatile oils as described previously, one or more non-volatile oil (s). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1000R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R1 + R2 is 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; at room temperature liquids with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol or 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; - carbonates, - acetals, - citrates, - and their mixtures.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates. The fluorinated oils that can be used in the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers and fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752.

The non-volatile oils may be present in a composition used according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, especially from 1% to 40% by weight, and in particular from 3% to 35% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of non-volatile oil.

Glossary oils According to a particular embodiment, a composition considered according to the invention may comprise at least one glossy oil. The glossy oil is preferably an oil of high molecular weight ranging from 650 to 10,000 g / mol, and preferably from 750 to 7500 g / mol. The glossy oils are preferably non-volatile. The gloss oil preferably has a high molecular weight of from 650 to 10,000 g / mol, and preferably from 750 to 7500 g / mol. The glossy oil can be chosen from: lipophilic polymers such as: polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (of molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340) g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by AMOCO, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by AMOCO (MW = 1340 g) mol), Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), REWOPAL PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as: vinylpyrrolidone / 1-copolymer hexadecene, ANTARON V216 marketed or manufactured by ISP (MW = 7300 g / mol), esters such as: - is Linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g / mol), hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965 g / mol). ), aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757 g / mol), esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids such as those described in application EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate (MW = 697 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891 g / mol), tri-decyl tetradecanoate 2 glyceryl 30 (MW = 1143 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202 g / mol), polyglyceryl tetraisostearate -2 (MW = 1232 g / mol) or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate (MW = 1538 g / mol), a polyester resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of carboxylic acid (s) hydroxylated with an acid aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated, such as castor oil of succinic acid and isostearic acid sold under the reference Zénigloss by Zenitech, - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of acid unsaturated fat and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0853634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), the esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer of general formula HO-R1 - (- OCO-R2 -COO-R1-) h-OH, wherein: RI represents a residue of diol dimer obtained by hydrogenation of the dilinoleic diacid, R2 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue, and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, in particular the esters dilinoleic diacids and dilinoleic diol dimers sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®, silicone oils such as phenyl silicones (also called phenyl silicone oil) such as Belsil PDM 1000 from WACKER (MW = 9000 g / mol), phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenols; dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes; oils of plant origin, such as sesame oil (MW = 820 g / mol), and mixtures thereof. The gloss oil may also be a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride oligomer and saturated diacid.

Such an oligomer is obtained by reacting a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride (such as hydrogenated castor oil) and a saturated diacid. According to the invention, the diacid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon chain constituting it does not contain unsaturation, namely carbon-carbon double bond. The term "diacid" means a hydrocarbon compound comprising two carboxyl functions - COOH. The diacid may be a single diacid or a mixture of several diacids. Similarly, within the meaning of the invention, the oligomer may be a mixture of several oligomers. Among the saturated diacids that can be used are sebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), succinic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecamethylene dicarboxylic acid and acid. eïcosadicarboxylique. More particularly, the oligomer may be an oligoester whose monomers are represented by the following formulas (A) of triglyceride and (B) diacid: ## STR2 ##

R1 R1 R1 CO = CO = CO = O O O I I I CH2 CH CH O O

(B) 15 in which

R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group comprising, for example, from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group comprising, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; (A) R 1 preferably represents a group - (CH 2) r 1, where n can vary from 1 to 20 and in particular from 3 to 16, for example from 6 to 12; R2 preferably represents a group - (CH2) mCH3, where m can vary from 0 to 1 l and in particular from 2 to 11, for example from 3 to 9; OH -R1 -C-R2 According to one embodiment n = 10 and m = 5, and the group H represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid (major component of hydrogenated castor oil); X1 is a linear or branched alkylene group such as, for example, a linear alkylene group - (CH2) X, where x can vary from 1 to 30 and especially from 3 to 15. When the diacid is sebacic acid, x is equal to at 8. The average degree of polymerization of the oligomer can vary between 3 and 12. The oligoester hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid is marketed by the company CRODA under different names depending on the degree of polymerization. Of the oligoesters formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, that having a degree of polymerization of about 4.6 is available under the trade name "CROMADOL CWS-5" and that having a degree of polymerization of about 9.5 is available under the trade name "CROMADOL 20 CWS-10", marketed by Croda Japan KK. The oligomer of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid sold under the name CRODABOND-CSA is also mentioned (MW = 3500). ) by the company CRODA. The oligomer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, particularly from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 30% by weight. example of 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the glossy oil has a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.45 and in particular ranging from 1.45 to 1.6. The shiny oil or oils may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, especially from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.5 Other macaws The composition considered according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty substance chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, structuring agents and / or thickeners, and mixtures thereof.

Wax (s) The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax. For the purposes of the invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 ° C. C up to 120 ° C. The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes may be used; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters. It is also possible to mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-tetrastearate ( 1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrahenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by HETERENE company. It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names Phytowax castor 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the SOPHIM company. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. It is also possible to use silicone waxes which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at low melting point. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC ).

The silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C20-C60) alkyldimethicones, in particular especially (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.

It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as, for example, siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax by Koster Keunen. The waxes may also be chosen from fluorinated waxes. The wax or waxes may be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, especially from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Paste compounds The composition considered according to the invention may further comprise at least one pasty compound. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" means a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 23 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23 ° C, represents from 20 to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is more preferably 25 to 85%, and more preferably 30 to 60% by weight of the pasty compound. The pasty compound may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines, compounds polymeric or non-polymeric silicone polymers such as polydimethysiloxanes of high molecular weight, polyalkyl siloxanes having side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially stearyl dimethicones, polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers, in particular - homopolymers of olefins, - copolymers of olefins, - homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, - linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates, preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group, homo and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having C 7 alkyl groups g-C30, homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 6 -C 30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 10 diols, preferably C 2 -C 50 diols; polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

The pasty compound may be a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer. A preferred silicone and fluoro pasty compound is polymethyl-trifluoropropyl-methylalkyl-dimethylsiloxane, manufactured under the name X22-1088 by SHIN ETSU. When the pasty compound is a silicone and / or fluorinated polymer, the composition advantageously comprises a compatibilizing agent such as short chain esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate. Among the liposoluble polyethers, there may be mentioned copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C6-C30 alkylene oxides. Preferably, the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will be made in particular of block copolymers comprising blocks of C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides having a molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecylene glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers. (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 oxyethylene or 0E units) marketed under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel. Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol; the phytosterol esters; pentaerythritol esters; esters formed from: at least one C 16 -40 alcohol, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol and a diacid dimer formed from at least one unsaturated C 18 fatty acid; As the tall oil fatty acid dimer ester comprising 36 carbon atoms and a mixture of i) Guerbet alcohols comprising 32 carbon atoms and ii) behenyl alcohol; the dimer ester of linoleic acid and a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyl-octadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecyl-eicosanol (36 carbon atoms); non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or a polycarboxylic acid and a C2-050 diol or polyol; polyesters which result from the esterification between a polycarboxylic acid and a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid ester, such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H marketed by the Japanese company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, which are esters resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid; and the aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification between an aliphatic hydroxyl carboxylic acid ester and an aliphatic carboxylic acid, for example that sold under the trade name Salacos HCIS (V) -L by the company Nishing Oil.

Guerbet alcohol is the reaction product of the Guerbet reaction well known to those skilled in the art. This is a reaction converting a primary aliphatic alcohol to its dimer alcohol (3-alkylated with loss of one equivalent of water.) The aliphatic carboxylic acids described above generally comprise from 4 to 30 and preferably from at 30 carbon atoms, preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof The aliphatic carboxylic acids are preferably branched aliphatic carboxylic acid esters hydroxylated are advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid esters are in particular chosen from: a) the esters, partial or total, of linear, saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) esters, partial or total, of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) the esters, partial or total, of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; d) the esters, partial or total, of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) the esters, partial or total, of C 2 to C 16 aliphatic polyols reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono- or polycarboxylic acid, f) and mixtures thereof. The ester aliphatic esters are advantageously chosen from: the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions 1 to 1 (1/1), which is called monoisostearate of hydrogenated castor oil, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 2 (1/2), which is called oil diisostearate hydrogenated castor oil, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 3 (1/3), which is called hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate , and their mixtures.

The pasty compound (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, especially from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition used according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the abovementioned compounds, at least one structuring agent chosen from semicrystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents and their mixtures.

Semicrystalline Polymers "Polymers" means compounds comprising at least two units, preferably at least 3 units and especially at least 10 repeating units. By "semi-crystalline polymer" is meant polymers having a crystallizable portion, a crystallizable pendant chain or a skeletalizable block in the backbone, and an amorphous portion in the backbone and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). When the crystallizable portion is in the form of a crystallizable block of the polymeric backbone, the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous sequence; in this case, the semi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block. By "sequence" is generally meant at least 5 identical repetition patterns. The crystallizable sequence (s) are then of a different chemical nature from the amorphous sequence (s). The semi-crystalline polymer has a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C (especially from 30 ° C to 80 ° C), preferably from 30 ° C to 60 ° C. This melting temperature is a first order change of state temperature. This melting temperature can be measured by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.). Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer or polymers have a number-average molecular mass greater than or equal to 1,000. Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer or polymers used according to the invention have a number-average molecular weight. Mn ranging from 2,000 to 800,000, preferably from 3,000 to 500,000, more preferably from 4,000 to 150,000, especially less than 100,000, and better still from 4,000 to 99,000. Preferably, they have an average molecular weight in excess of 5,600, for example from 5,700 to 99,000.

By "chain or crystallizable block" is meant, in the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the "crystallizable pendant chain" can be a chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. The semi-crystalline polymer may be chosen from block copolymers comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block, homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain per repeating unit, and mixtures thereof. Such polymers are described, for example, in document EP 1 396 259. According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer is derived from a monomer with a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated alkyl (meth) acrylates. C14 to C22. As a particular example of a structuring semicrystalline polymer that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the Intelimer® products from the company Landec described in the brochure "Intelimer ° polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97). These polymers are in solid form at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). They carry crystallizable side chains.

Lipophilic Gelling Agents The gelling agents that may be used according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents. As inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl-dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS. It may also be fumed silica. Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, by Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES , SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular C1 groups; at C3, "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type block copolymers of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylenepropylene) type; ) such as those sold under the name Kratori by Shell Chemical Co., or else from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by PENRECO company under the name Versagel® such as for example the mixture of triblock butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymer and star copolymer ethylene / propylene ne / styrene in isododecane (Versagel M 5960), and mixtures thereof.

Lipophilic gelling agents that may also be mentioned include polymers having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbon-based repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one fatty chain. pendant and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to these hydrocarbon units, as described in applications WO-A-02/056847, WO-A-02/47619 ; in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5783657. As an example of a polyamide resin that can be used according to the present invention, there may be mentioned UNICLEAR 100 VG® marketed by ARIZONA CHEMICAL. Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those marketed under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the CHIBA FLOUR company. It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establish hydrogen interactions, both groups being located on grafts or branches.

A composition used according to the invention may furthermore comprise any additional component usually used in cosmetics, such as dyestuffs, fillers or cosmetic active ingredients. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged.

Dyestuffs A composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise at least one dyestuff which may be chosen from water-soluble or non-fat-soluble dyestuffs, whether or not liposoluble, organic or inorganic, in particular of the pigment or nacre type, conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof. The dyestuffs may be present in a proportion of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition used according to the invention.

The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color the resulting film. As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and the like. chromium hydrate. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference "COVERLEAF NS" or "JS" by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30.

The coloring material may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference "PC BALL PC-LL-100 P", this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Calcium and sodium borosilicate in the form of a calcium and sodium borosilicate plate coated with titanium and with tin dioxide (94,25 / 5) can also preferably be used in a composition according to the invention. 25 / 0.5). Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP). described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.

By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a dye. organic and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.

Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the pearls "TIMICA", "FLAMENCO" and "DUOCHROME" (based on mica) marketed by the company ENGELHARD, the pearls "TIMIRON" marketed by the company MERCK, the nacres on "PRESTIGE" mica base marketed by the company ECKART and nacres based on synthetic mica "Sunshine" marketed by the company SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

As an illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of gold-colored nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold for example by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures. A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular interferential fibers. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, the particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, monomaterial or multimaterials, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and - the mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g. bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides.

As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names "STARBRITE 1200 EAC®" by the company SIBERLINE and "METALURE®" by the company ECKART. Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or alloy blends such as the references 2844 marketed by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the names ROTOSAFE 700 of the ECKART company, the silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the name "VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER" by ECKART and the metal alloy particles, such as bronze powder (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name of "VISIONAIRE BRIGHT NATURAL GOLD" from ECKART. It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those sold by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names "MICROGLASS METASHINE".

The goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name "CHROMAFLAIR" by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name "SICOPEARL" by BASF; MoSz / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoSz; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name "XIRONA" by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica / titania / tin oxide structure marketed under the name "XIRONA MAGIC" by the company MERCK, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name "XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER" by the company MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structural pigments marketed under the name "XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE" by the company MERCK. We can also mention the pigments "INFINITE COLORS" from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 structure, grey-green to gray-red is passed for SiO 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm. Examples of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure include those sold by the company 3M under the name "COLOR 10 GLITTER". As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by the company Chenix as well as those sold under the name "Helicone® HC" by the company Wacker. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, Orange DC. 5, yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue.

Fillers A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature. By "filler" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they allow to confer body or rigidity to the composition, and / or softness, dullness and uniformity to the makeup. They are distinct from fumed silica particles and dyestuffs. Among the mineral fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentonite, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydrogen carbonate. magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads of Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules; Sunsphare L-31, Sunphare H-31 marketed by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen marketed by Asahi Chemical; silica and titanium dioxide composites such as the TSG series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass, and mixtures thereof. It may in particular be spherical fillers such as, for example, talc, zinc stearate, mica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), polyethylene powders, powders of polymers of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), starch, boron nitride, polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap® of the Dow Corning Company) and silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba's Tospearls®, for example), elastomeric organopolysiloxanes. Among the organic fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon Orgasol from Atochem), poly-b-alanine and polyethylene, powders of polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow microspheres of polymers such as EXPANCEL (NOBEL INDUSTRIE), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate, metal soaps derived from organic acids carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (for example Toshiba's Tospearl®), polyurethane powders, especially crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolyester a polymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® from TOSHIKI, and mixtures thereof. A composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

Additional Usual Cosmetic Ingredients A composition used according to the invention may furthermore comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen especially from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, moisturizers, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-free radical agents, sequestering agents, and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not impaired by the addition envisaged.

The compositions according to the invention may be in any acceptable and customary form for a cosmetic composition. They can therefore be in the form of a suspension, a dispersion including oil in water with vesicles; an organic or oily solution optionally thickened or even gelled; an oil-in-water, water-in-oil, or multiple emulsion; a gel or a mousse; an oily or emulsified gel; a dispersion of vesicles, in particular lipids; a biphase or multiphase lotion; a spray; a lotion, a cream, an ointment, a soft paste, an ointment, a solid cast or molded and in particular stick or cup, or solid compacted. Those skilled in the art may choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of its general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand, of the application envisaged for the composition.

The compositions according to the invention can be used for the care or makeup of the skin and / or the lips, and more particularly for the makeup of the lips and / or face. They can therefore be in the form of a care product and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, lips, a sun product or self-tanning; they are advantageously in the form of makeup composition, including lipstick, lip gloss (gloss), blush or eyelid or foundation.

In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of cast products in stick or cup. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of stick or lipstick paste to be cast while hot.

In particular, the composition of the invention may be in the form of a colored lipstick product such as a lipstick, a lip pencil, possibly having care or treatment properties. It can be in the form of an anhydrous stick. By way of illustration of the fluid formulations, mention may be made especially of gloss. The composition according to the invention may be manufactured by the known processes generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. For example, it can be manufactured by the following method. At first, the pigments can be milled in part of the oily phase. The remaining fat-soluble ingredients can then be mixed at a temperature of the order of 100 ° C. The ground material or the pre-dispersed actives can then be added to the oily phase. Any hydrophilic active agents can then be dispersed using a mechanical stirrer. Finally, in the case of a stick, the composition can be cast in a mold capable of providing the final shape (eg stick) and the whole can be left to cool to room temperature and / or in a freezer.

KIT OR ASSEMBLY OF PACKAGING AND APPLICATION As mentioned above, the present invention also relates to a kit or set of packaging and application comprising a reservoir containing a composition as defined above, a device for the application of said composition, and means for artificially accelerating the drying of the deposit formed upon the application of said composition to the skin or the lips, in particular adapted to provide a breath of air, having a temperature ranging from 35 to 45 ° C. . As stated above, the indicated temperature of the air blast is that in contact with the lips or the skin.

Characteristics of a kit or set of packaging and application according to the invention will become apparent on reading the following description, given solely by way of nonlimiting example and with reference to the appended figures. The reservoir containing a composition according to the invention may be coupled to the device for the application of said composition, to form an assembly, known and commonly used in the field of lip makeup, as designated by the general reference numeral 1 in the annexed figures. This set 1 can be adapted to the storage and application of a cosmetic composition formulated in solid form, more precisely in the form of a stick as shown schematically in FIG. 1, or for a composition formulated or in a fluid form, of type "gloss", as shown schematically in Figure 2. This type of assembly, well known to those skilled in the art, is not described in more detail below. Of course, all the possible and known variants for this set of kit or set of packaging and application according to the present invention are also part of the invention. According to a particular embodiment, the means for artificially accelerating the drying of the film formed by the application of said composition, generally designated in the appended figures by the general numerical reference 2, is integrated into the assembly comprising the reservoir. and the device for the application, as described above. In particular, it may be disposed at the end of the assembly 1, opposite to the outlet or application end of the cosmetic composition. According to another embodiment, the means for artificially accelerating the drying of the film formed by the application of said composition is distinct from this set. In particular, the drying acceleration means of the coating film may comprise a heating means, including in particular a heat source. By "heat source" is meant more particularly a heating means such as those skilled in the art for drying the layer deposited on the surface on the skin or the lips during the application of a composition for coating materials. keratin. This heat source may consist of thermal resistors 3 shown in Figures 1 and 2, for heating the air.

A heating means according to the invention is understood to be any device capable of heating the skin or the lips to a temperature conducive to drying the deposit formed by the application of a composition as described above. This heating means is advantageously conducive to generating a temperature at the level of the coating film deposited on the skin or the lips ranging from 35 ° C. to 45 ° C., more particularly from 36 ° C. to 41 ° C. Furthermore, a means of accelerating the drying of the coating film according to the invention may also comprise means suitable for generating a breath of air, for example in the direction I shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. This means can a particular embodiment, a drying acceleration means may consist of the assembly of a heating means and a means for generating a blast of heat. as described previously. Of course, the variants that can be envisaged for the kit or set of packaging and application devices according to the invention, to allow on the one hand the application of a composition on the skin or the lips and, on the other hand, the acceleration drying of the formed film are also part of the invention.

The following examples are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. The percentages are expressed relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.

EXAMPLES Example 1 Preparation of Supramolecular Compounds AA As an example of supramolecular compounds that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds: Compound 1: Functionalized Octyldodecanol Ureidopyrimidone 70 g of ureidopyrimidone diisocyanate are dissolved in methyl tetrahydrofuran, under argon. 80.3 g of octyldodecanol are added to 100 ml of dichloromethane under argon and then 15 ml of dibutyltin dilaurate (catalyst). The reaction mixture is refluxed until the peak of isocyanate (2250-2265 cm -1) has disappeared by IR spectrometry. The excess octyldodecanol is removed by washing the reaction medium successively with methanol, followed by three extractions and drying over MgSO 4. After evaporation of the organic phase, 103 g of a slightly yellow powder, characterized by 1 H NMR (conformal structure), are obtained.

This powder may be carried in isododecane, for example at a concentration of 10% by weight; this concentration may range in particular up to 60% by weight in isododecane, which then leads to a viscous but still manipulable solution. It is therefore found that, by functionalization with a ureidopyrimidone, a liquid oil is passed to a solid which can be transported in isododecane at concentrations greater than 30%.

When a solution comprising 50% by weight of compound in isododecane is applied, after evaporation of the solvent, a transparent and glossy film is obtained, which has a good adherence by fragmentation, and a low resistance to friction.

Compound 2: Diisostearyl malate functionalized with ureidopyrimidone 15 g (0.0234 moles) of diisostearyl malate were dried under reduced pressure at 80 ° C. for 4 hours. 7.21 g (0.0117 mol) of ureidopyrimidone diisocyanate dissolved in 60 ml of methyltetrahydrofuran and 12 g of dilaurate dibutyltin catalyst are added. The mixture is heated at 95 ° C. under argon for 26 hours (disappearance of the characteristic band of isocyanates by IR spectroscopy). 20 ml of methyltetrahydrofuran are added to the reaction mixture and then filtered through celite. After evaporation of the solvent and drying under reduced pressure, a pale yellow solid is obtained.

Compound 3: Castor oil functionalized with a ureidopyrimidone 15 g of castor oil (0.016 mole) are dried under reduced pressure at 80 ° C. for 4 hours. A solution of 4.9 g of ureidopyrimidone diisocyanate (0.008 mol) in 60 ml of methyltetrahydrofuran and 12 g of dilaurate dibutyltin catalyst is added. The mixture is heated at 90 ° C. for 19 hours (complete disappearance of the isocyanate characteristic band by IR spectroscopy). At the end of the reaction, the solvent is evaporated and the resulting product is dried under reduced pressure at 35 ° C overnight.

A pale yellow solid gum is obtained.

Compound 4: Diisostearyl malate functionalized with a ureidopyrimidone Preparation of the supramolecular oil: Functionalized diisostearyl malate 20 ureidopyrimidone. 150 g of diisostearyl malate were cast for 1 h 20 at 50 ° C. in a solution of 57.4 g isophorone diisocyanate and 38.18 g of methyl isocytosine, in the presence of the dibutyltin dilaurate catalyst with control of the exotherm and under atmosphere inert. Stirring was maintained for 55 minutes at 50 ° C after casting, then 50 ml propylene carbonate was added. The temperature of the reaction medium was then raised to 140 ° C. with a contact time of 2 hours, with stirring. The temperature of the reaction medium was then lowered to 70 ° C. and neutralized by addition of 30 ml of ethanol and the stirring was continued for one hour. After adding 780 ml of ethyl acetate, the mixture was filtered on celite. After evaporation of the ethyl acetate, 400 ml of cyclohexane was added to the reaction medium, and the mixture was washed twice with a mixture of H2O / EtOH (2v / 1v) saturated with NaCl. The organic phase was then stripped with isododecane until a viscous liquid corresponding to the desired molecule at 50% solids content. For the purposes of the formulation, this dry extract may be modified by adding isododecane to the medium.

Functionalized 5: 2-hexyl decanol ureidopyrimidone Compound 126.4 g of 2-hexyl decanol was heated at 60 ° C under reduced pressure for 2 hours to dry. After 2 hours, the oil is allowed to return to 20 ° C. under argon, then added slowly over 5 hours to a mixture of 116 g of isophorone diisocyanate and 55 mg of DBTL catalyst at 50 ° C. At the end of the addition, the temperature of the reaction mixture is brought to 110 ° C., then 90 ml of propylene carbonate and 78.4 g of 6-methyl isocytosine are added, which gives a white and homogeneous suspension. Stirring is maintained at 110 ° C for two hours and the disappearance of the isocyanate is monitored by infrared spectroscopy. The disappearance of the peak at 2250 cm -1 is observed. In parallel, the disappearance of the amine from isocytosine is followed by an amine assay. At the end of the reaction, 500 g of isododecane are added at 100 ° C. and a slightly turbid pale yellow solution is obtained. 300 ml of ethanol are added and the stirring is maintained for 2 hours. After filtration on celite, the reaction mixture is stripped with isododecane at 80 ° C. in order to eliminate the alcohol and the propylene carbonate. Finally, the desired product is obtained from isododecane at 50% solids content. The product is characterized in particular by HPLC and GPC (confirmed structure).

Compound 6: 2-hexyl decanol functionalized ureidopyrimidone 173.1 g of 2-hexyl decanol were heated at 60 ° C under reduced pressure for 2 hours to dry. After 2 hours, the oil is allowed to return to 50 ° C. under argon, then added slowly over 5 hours to a mixture of 158.7 g of isophorone diisocyanate and 77 mg of DBTL catalyst at 50 ° C. At the end of the addition, the temperature of the reaction mixture is brought to 110 ° C., then 150 ml of propylene carbonate and 60.3 g of 5-hydroxyethyl-6-methyl isocytosine are added, which leads to a suspension. white and homogeneous. Stirring is maintained at 110 ° C for five hours and the disappearance of the isocyanate is monitored by infrared spectroscopy. The disappearance of the peak at 2250 cm -1 is observed. At the end of the reaction, the temperature of the reaction medium is decreased to 100 ° C., and 780 g of isododecane are added; a slightly yellow turbid mixture is obtained. 100 ml of ethanol are added and stirring is continued for 2 hours. After filtration on celite, the reaction mixture is stripped with isododecane at 80 ° C. in order to eliminate the alcohol and the propylene carbonate. Finally, the desired product is obtained in isododecane at 50% solids content. The product is characterized in particular by HPLC and GPC (confirmed structure).

Compound 7: 2-decyl tetradecanol functionalized ureidopyrimidone 126 g of 2-decyl tetradecanol are heated at 100 ° C under reduced pressure for 4 hours to dry. After 2 hours, the oil is added, over 4 hours at 50 ° C. and under argon, to a mixture of 94.7 g of isophorone diisocyanate and catalyst DBTL (qs). A follow-up by isocyanate determination makes it possible to follow the reaction; at half equivalence, 126 g of propylene carbonate and 53.3 g of 6-methyl isocytosine are added. Stirring and heating are maintained at 100 ° C for 16 hours and the disappearance of the isocyanate is monitored by infrared spectroscopy. The disappearance of the peak at 2250 cm -1 is observed. In parallel, the disappearance of the amine from isocytosine is followed by an amine assay. At the end of the reaction, the temperature is brought to 50 ° C, 100 ml of ethanol is added and the stirring is maintained for 5 hours. After filtration on celite and stripping with isododecane, the desired product is obtained, transported in isododecane at 50% solids content. The product is characterized in particular by GPC and HPLC coupled to a mass spectrum.

Compound 8: Jarcol 24 (J24) functionalized with ureidopyrimidone 200 g of Jarcol I-24 are cast at 50 ° C. in the IPDI (1, IPDI lq) in the presence of the catalyst, with control of the exotherm and under an inert atmosphere. Stirring is maintained after casting for 30 minutes at 50 ° C. 1.3 equivalents of methylisocytosine (MIC) are then added to the mixture, followed by the addition of 100 ml of propylene carbonate. The temperature of the reaction medium is then raised to 140 ° C., with a contact time of 1 h at 140 ° C. The disappearance of the isocyanate functions is monitored by infrared spectroscopy, then the temperature of the medium is lowered to 70 ° C. followed by the addition of 30 ml of ethanol and stirring for 1 h. After addition of ethyl acetate, the medium is filtered on filter paper. After evaporation of the ethyl acetate, cyclohexane is added, followed by 5 washes with a saturated water mixture of NaCl / ethanol (2V / 1V). The organic phase is then dried over Na 2 SO 4, filtered and stripped with isododecane. A 50% solution of oil solids functionalized with a ureidopyrimidone is then obtained.

Compound 9: Jarcol 20 (J20) functionalized ureidopyrimidone 180 g of Jarcol I-20 are cast at 50 ° C. in the IPDI (1, IPDI lq) in the presence of the catalyst) with exothermic control and under an inert atmosphere. Stirring is maintained for 30 minutes at 50 ° C. 1.3 equivalents of MIC are added to the reaction medium followed by the addition of 100 ml of propylene carbonate. The temperature of the reaction medium is then raised to 140 ° C., and the stirring is maintained for 1 hour at 140 ° C. The reaction is monitored by infra-red spectroscopy, followed by the decrease in the characteristic peak of the function. isocyanate. Decrease of the temperature to 70 ° C then addition of 30 ml of ethanol and agitation for 1h. After addition of ethyl acetate, the medium is filtered on filter paper. After evaporation of the ethyl acetate, cyclohexane is added, followed by 5 washes with a saturated water mixture of NaCl / ethanol (2V / 1V). The organic phase is then dried over Na 2 SO 4, filtered and stripped with isododecane. This gives a 50% solution of oil solids functionalized with a ureidopyrimidone. Example 2 Gloss formula for the lips Ingredient / commercial reference Formula 1% by weight Compound Di-isostearyl malate-ureidopyrimidone (compound 4 of 90 Supramolecular Example 1) at 48.7% in a mixture 95/5 A isododecane / ethanol Pigment DC Red 7 10 * or 43.83% by weight of Di-isostearyl malate-ureidopyrimidone

Preparation of the composition The pigments are ground in the oily phase. The mixture is stirred with RAYNERI for 45 minutes. The formula is poured into isododecane-tight water bottles.

Drying Time A layer of Formula 1 applied to the lips was allowed to air dry (i.e., naturally) at room temperature (25 ° C) for 2 minutes. A layer of the same formula was applied to the lips and dried by artificially accelerating drying using a STINTEL HG 3002LCD laboratory heat gun with thermoelectronic control. This stripper adjusts the air flow and its temperature by setting the parameters of the two output speeds. The temperature of the heat gun is set at 40 ° C., thus making it possible to simulate a blast of air according to the invention at 40 ° C. After applying the composition to the lips, the deposit was blown with air at 40 ° C for 2 minutes. The color fastness properties were measured and compared to that of the same deposit allowed to dry naturally in the open air at 25 ° C for a duration of 2 minutes. Colorimetric evaluation protocols The color strengths of the films formed from the application of the above composition, air-dried or artificially dried, were evaluated by the described test. previously.

Results The results obtained are summarized in Table 1 below.

TABLE 1 Formula 1 dried in the open air Formula 1 dried with the (after 2 minutes) heat gun (after 2 minutes) Holding the 58.57 ± 11.82% 99.07 ± 0.83% color These results show that only the film, at the end of an accelerated drying with the aid of a blast of hot air, presents a satisfactory behavior. A film formed from the application of the same composition and having dried in the open air for 2 minutes, the maximum time tolerable by the user, is completely devoid of satisfactory performance. 15

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. A method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least the steps of: i) depositing on the skin and / or the lips at least one layer of a cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 15% by weight of volatile oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition, and at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition, of supramolecular compound (s) capable (s) to be obtained by reaction between: at least one oil bearing at least one nucleophilic reactive function selected from OH and NH 2, and at least one linking group; capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more joint joining groups, each pairing of a linking group involving at least three hydrogen bonds, said linking group carrying at least one isocyanate or imidazole reactive functional group capable of reacting with the 15 f reactive anointing carried by the oil, said joining group further comprising at least one unit of formula (I) or (II): ## STR1 ## wherein: ## STR1 ## R1 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) a linear or branched C1-C32 alkyl group, (ii) a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group and (iii) a C4 aryl group; -C16, optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P, and / or optionally substituted by an ester function, an amide or by a C1-C12 alkyl radical, or a mixture of these groups ; R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, hydrocarbon radical, Ci-C 32, which may comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F; , Si and P; and ii) artificially accelerating the drying of the deposition carried out in step i), simultaneously or after its application by exposing said deposit to a breath of air having a temperature ranging from 35 to 45 ° C. 2. Method according to the preceding claim, wherein the air blast has a temperature ranging from 36 ° C to 41 ° C. 3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the supramolecular compound (s) is (are) present in a content ranging from 15% to 80% by weight, preferably from 20% to 70% by weight. by weight, or even 25 to 65% by weight, and more particularly from 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. 4. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil bearing the reactive function is chosen from, alone or as a mixture: (i) fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 50 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated, comprising 1 or more OH; optionally comprising one or more NHz; (ii) esters and ethers bearing at least one free OH group, and in particular esters and partial polyol ethers, and hydroxylated carboxylic acid esters; (iii) natural, natural modified, vegetable, hydroxylated oils. 5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oil carrying the reactive functional group is chosen from: - fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 50 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising: 1 or more OH; optionally comprising one or more NH 2, such as linear or branched C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 32, in particular C 8 -C 32, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohols, and in particular isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isopalmitoyl alcohol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-octyl decanol, 2-octyl dodecanol, 2-octyl tetradecanol, decyl -2 tetradecanol, 2-dodecyl hexadecanol; esters of dicarboxylic acid hydroxylated with a monoalcohol, and in particular of malic acid, and especially C4-40 alkyl malates, such as diethyl-2-hexyl malate, diisostearyl malate, malate; of 2-dioctyl dodecyl. 6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, in the junction group, (a) in the formula (I), there is: 65- R1 = -isophorone- and R2 = methyl, - R1 = - (CH2) 6- and R2 = methyl, - R1 = - (CH2) 6- and R2 = isopropyl, or - R1 = 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene and R2 = methyl, or (b) in the formula ( II), R1 represents the radical -isophorone-, R2 = methyl and R3 = - (CH2) 2000-NH-isophorone-. 7. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the linking group is chosen from the following groups: ## STR1 ## ## STR2 ## NCO H3C CH3 NCO CH3 HH x ONONN CO OCN XONNNO 1 HH 5 8. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more supramolecular compound (s) are selected from those having the following structures: isostearyl 0 0 0 0 NO 0 isostearyl OON isostearyl O1N NN / N / ## STR2 ## isostearyl ## STR1 ## wherein ## STR2 ## isostearyl ## STR1 ## wherein ## STR1 ## 9. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the supramolecular compound is the functionalized diisostearyl malate ureidopyrimidone. 10. The method as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the supramolecular compound has a number-average molecular mass ranging from 180 to 8000, preferably from 200 to 6000, even from 300 to 4000, and even more preferably from 400 to 3000. preferably from 500 to 1500. 11. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the volatile oil (s) is (are) present in a content ranging from 15% to 50% by weight, in particular of 20% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The method of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is in the form of a stick or gloss for the lips. 13. Kit or set of packaging and application, comprising a reservoir containing a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, a device for applying said composition to the skin or lips, and a means for artificially accelerating the drying of the deposit formed in the application of said composition on the skin or the lips, and in particular able to provide an air blast of temperature ranging from 35 to 45 ° C. 14. Kit or assembly according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the means for artificially accelerating the drying of the film comprises at least one heating means and at least one means for generating a breath of air.