FR2984698A1 - LIP MAKE-UP KIT, COSMETIC PRODUCT APPLICATOR, AND MAKE-UP PROCESS USING THE SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a lip makeup kit, a cosmetic product applicator on the lips, their uses and the method of making lips using them. The present invention relates to a makeup kit for decorating the lips of several colors and / or different aspects and comprising a cosmetic product comprising in particular an aqueous composition and an oily composition.

Description

The present invention relates to a lip makeup kit, a cosmetic product applicator on the lips, their uses and the method of making up the lips using them. More particularly, the present invention relates to a makeup kit for decorating the lips of several colors and / or different aspects. To apply a makeup product to the lips of a user, it is known to use a lipstick stick to transfer product by sliding. Moreover, to obtain a very satisfactory rendering, the user can, when time permits, use a liner or a pencil to achieve the outline, and a classic lipstick stick to cover the inner part of the lips. It can also overlay several layers of different products, for example by putting a lipstick and then a second, to obtain particular color effects, patterns or aspects of the lips. However, these different makeup methods are not entirely satisfactory. Indeed, the contour often resists better than the inner part to wear, which sometimes produces an unattractive time evolution of makeup. In the case of a product overlay, the color assembly badly resists over time. The second layer being above the first, it wears first, bringing an unsightly intermediate situation. For a user, the ideal would be to make colored keys that do not overlap. However, this is not feasible in practice since it would require a great deal of precision to put a touch of color and then, bypassing this key, put the second color. It is therefore necessary to seek a technical solution for decorating the lips with different compositions having different colors and / or aspects, avoiding the disadvantages of the techniques mentioned above. The object of the present invention is to satisfy these needs. The present invention aims to allow the makeup of the lips with different compositions having different colors and / or aspects. The present invention also aims to allow lip makeup with two-color effects having a fade between the two colors. It is also an object of the present invention to provide lip makeup with two-color effects with sharp demarcation between the two colors.

The present invention also aims to allow lip makeup with compositions of different appearance, for example one mat and the other gloss. The present invention thus relates to a make-up kit comprising: - an applicator (10) of at least one cosmetic product on the lips of a user, of the type comprising an application surface (16), of shape similar to the shape human lips, said application surface being for receiving cosmetic product, and said cosmetic product comprising: at least one aqueous composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium; and at least one oily composition, distinct from the aqueous composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium; said aqueous composition containing at least 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said aqueous composition, and said oily composition containing less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said oily composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a makeup kit comprising: - an applicator (10) of at least one cosmetic product on the lips of a user, of the type comprising an application surface (16), of similar shape to the shape of the lips of a human being, said application surface being intended to receive cosmetic product, and - said cosmetic product comprising: at least one aqueous composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium; and at least one oily composition, distinct from the aqueous composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium; said aqueous composition containing at least 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said aqueous composition, and said oily composition containing less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said oily composition, at least one of the aqueous or oily compositions not being a water-in-oil emulsion.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the oily composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition and may in particular be anhydrous. Preferably, the oily composition is an anhydrous composition. By "anhydrous" is meant in particular that the water is preferably not added deliberately in the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. Viscosity Preferably, the aqueous composition has at 20 ° C. a viscosity of between 0.3 Pa.s and 100 Pa.s, preferably of between 0.5 Pa.s and 100 Pa.s and better still between 1 Pa. .s and 40 Pa.s. Preferably, the oily composition has a viscosity at 20 ° C. of between 0.5 Pa.s and 400 Pa.s, preferably between 1 Pa.s and 200 Pa.s and preferably between 2 Pa.s. and 100 Pa.s. Preferably, the aqueous and oily compositions will have a viscosity at 20 ° C. of greater than 0.3 Pa.s, in particular greater than 0.5 Pa.s, according to the protocol described below. The measurement of the viscosity is generally carried out at 25 ° C., using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a mobile adapted to the viscosity of the product (mobile chosen so that the measurement is always between 10 and 90 UD for Deviation Unit), the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile within the composition (time at the end of which a stabilization of the viscosity and the speed of rotation of the mobile) is observed, a shear of 200 s-1. The UD values are then converted to Poises (1 Poise = 0.1Pa. $) Using a lookup table. Mobile 3 will generally be used for viscosity compositions <3 Pa, mobile 4 for viscosity compositions ranging from 3 to 20 Pa, and mobile 5 for compositions of viscosity> 20 Pa.s. Physiologically acceptable medium The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to mean a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to keratinous substances, in particular the skin and the lips.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. The invention therefore relates to a makeup kit comprising an applicator for depositing a cosmetic product on the lips of a user, said product comprising an aqueous composition and an oily composition. According to one embodiment of the invention, the aqueous and oily compositions have a different color and / or appearance or evolve to give a different color and / or appearance. By "different appearance" is meant a gloss, a different grain. The term "leaves a different aspect", the fact that the colors may be identical at first but the evolution over time leads to create a difference in color or appearance. For example, if the color of one of them is less good in time than the other, we will create a two-color appearance. The object of the present invention is to enable lip makeup comprising a number of different colors or aspects. The present invention also aims to allow lip makeup comprising patterns or drawings. In particular, it is desired to be able to easily achieve effects that increase the relief effect of the lips. For this, we would like to position in some parts of the lips, especially in the central part, a lighter or darker color which, in contrast to the color attributed to the rest of the surface of the lips, confers this impression of relief. In this case, the color difference 3.E between the two zones does not need to be large (3, E is greater than 2 and preferably greater than 4 but less than 10). The delta E, dE or even 4E, is defined as a measure of difference between two colors. Here is the formula established in 1976: 2 + (a1 ci ') 2 + (b1 - b where: 30 are the coordinates in the color space of the first color to be compared and L2, a2, b2 those of the second color in the system CIE Lab (luminance L indices, a red, yellow b) This measurement can be performed by a camera In another case, it is desired to be able to easily achieve effects that beautify the surface of the lips, with the aim of printing a natural pattern (in the sense that it is found on some lips) or artificial, in the first case, we want to print lines for example, to recreate an impression of fine lines.In the second case, we will for example want to print a logo or In another case, we want to achieve a color gradient, between one zone and another.Degraded means a gradual change from a color to a color b, so that no clear demarcation is In this way, according to the invention, at least one aqueous or oily compositions comprises at least one dyestuff, especially chosen from pigments, dyes, reflective particles (also called flakes) and their mixtures. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, each of the aqueous and oily compositions comprises at least one dyestuff, the dyestuff of the aqueous composition being different from the dyestuff of the oily composition. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a two-color appearance is obtained on the lips of the user. This two-color appearance can, for example, have a melted effect, that is to say that the delimitation zone between the two colors is blurred. This two-color appearance can also, for example, represent patterns when the delimitation zone between the two colors is clear. In one particular case, the lip border may be colored by the application of one of the two aqueous or oily compositions while the inside of the lips may be colored by the other composition. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, one of the two compositions does not give color or appearance to the lips. The coloring matter (also called "coloring agent") may be preferably chosen from water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents, flakes and mixtures thereof. Dyestuffs The dyestuffs may be present in the aqueous or oily composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to weight of the composition. The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film. The pigments may be present in the aqueous or oily composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the aqueous or oily composition, preferably from 1% to 12% by weight. . As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and the like. chromium hydrate.

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30. The dyestuff may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be for example of the microsphere type. of silica containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. Preferably, the inorganic pigments used in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, titanium dioxide and silver. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) lacquers. ) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537. Preferably, the organic pigment used in the present invention is carmine. By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide coated titanium mica, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a organic dye and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, mother-of-pearl containing PRESTIGE mica marketed by the company. company ECKART and nacres based on synthetic mica SUNSHINE marketed by the company SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

As an illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of gold-colored nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures. Preferably, the nacres according to the present invention are chosen from synthetic fluorphlogopite, calcium and aluminum borosilicate, sodium calcium borosilicate and mica.

By "dyes", it is necessary to include generally organic compounds that are soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in a hydroalcoholic phase.

The aqueous and oily compositions according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, (3-carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow. water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue, etc. Preferably, the dyes or dyestuffs are chosen from the group consisting of Yellow 5, Red 4, Red 7, Red 33 and Red 40. Red 21, Red 27, Red 28, Yellow 5 lake, Yellow 6 lake, Blue 1 lake The aqueous or oily compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect. This effect is different from a simple effect of conventional hue, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs, for example monochromatic pigments. , "stabilized" means without effect of 1 5 variability of the color with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from metal-reflecting particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and fibers, especially interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention. Aqueous Composition According to one embodiment of the present invention, an aqueous composition according to the invention comprises from 20% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous composition. According to one embodiment, the water may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water. / or thermal water. Preferably, the aqueous composition also comprises at least one polar or water-soluble solvent. By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50 35% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvent (s) that are suitable for use in the invention can be chosen from C 1 -C 8 and especially C 1 -C 5 monoalcohols, especially ethanol, isopropanol and tert-butanol. n-butanol, polyols, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the aqueous composition comprises at least one water-soluble solvent, especially chosen from alcohols or polyols and more particularly from the group consisting of ethanol, glycerol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, the aqueous composition may comprise at least one fatty substance, preferably a non-volatile hydrocarbonaceous polar oil. The aqueous composition preferably comprises less than 35% by weight of fatty substance relative to the total weight of said composition. By fatty substance is meant a substance composed of hydrophobic molecules. Examples of oils and fats usable in the aqueous composition are described below. Oily composition The oily composition comprises, according to one embodiment, a volatile oil, preferably chosen from volatile silicone oils. Preferably, the oil composition comprises less than 30% by weight of volatile oil. The oily composition comprises, according to one embodiment, a non-volatile oil, preferably chosen from non-volatile silicone or hydrocarbon oils, in particular non-volatile silicone oils. According to the invention, the oily composition may also comprise a fat phase representing at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said oily composition. In a preferred embodiment, the oily composition comprises at least one solid fatty substance with a content equal to or less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oily composition may also comprise in the fatty phase at least one hydrocarbon oil, which may be volatile or non-volatile. The oily composition may also comprise in the fatty phase at least one silicone oil, which may be volatile or non-volatile. Advantageously, it will be a non-volatile silicone oil, in particular a phenyl silicone nonvolatile oil.

The oily composition may also comprise in the fatty phase at least one vegetable oil. The oily composition may also comprise in the fatty phase at least one hydrocarbon ester.

The oily composition may also comprise in the fatty phase at least one fatty alcohol or fatty acid ester. The oily composition may also comprise in the fatty phase at least one liquid triglyceride in 018-036. The oily composition may also comprise in the fatty phase at least one wax, more particularly a hydrocarbon wax. The oily composition may also comprise in the fatty phase at least one polar oil. Polar oils For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C., 8 ,, is different from 0 (J / cm 3) 1/2. This parameter is determined according to a procedure described below. These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. In particular, the nonvolatile hydrocarbonaceous polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof: vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil; the hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR 'in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isononanoate, isononyl, oleyl erucate or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate; isopropyl myristate; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and of diols such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4 - butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or the copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as the Hailuscent ISDA, the fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably monoalcohols, preferably branched, such as octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; C12-022 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; vegetable oils such as sesame oil (820.6 g / mol), fatty acids having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as oleic acid; di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; and non-volatile oils of high molecular weight, for example from 650 to 10,000 g / mol. Among the non-volatile oils of high molecular weight, mention may be made of: copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, ANTARON V-216 sold or manufactured by ISP (MW = 7300 g / mol), Ester oils, such as: linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697.05 g / mol), hydroxyl esters such as triisostearate of polyglycerol-2 (MW = 965.58 g / mol), aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757.19 g / mol), fatty alcohol esters or branched fatty acids in 024 -028 such as those described in application EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate (MW = 697.05 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891.51 g / mol), tri-decyl-2 glyceryl tetradecanoate (MW = 1143.98 g / mol), tetraisost pentaerythrityl (MW = 1202.02 g / mol), polyglyceryl-2 (MW = 1232.04 g / mol) tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate (MW = 1538.66 g / mol) diol dimer and mono- or dicarboxylic acid esters and polyesters, such as diol dimer and fatty acid esters and diol dimer and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, may be mentioned in particular. dilinoleic diacids and dimer dilinoleic diols sold by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7® and mixtures thereof. The above-mentioned esters of diol dimer and monocarboxylic acid can be obtained from monocarboxylic acid comprising from 4 to 34 carbon atoms, especially from 10 to 32 carbon atoms, which acids are linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated. By way of illustration of an example of a monocarboxylic acid which is suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of fatty acids. The diol dimer and dicarboxylic acid esters can be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, in particular C 8 to C 34, especially C 12 to O 2, in particular C 16. at 020, and more particularly at 018. According to a particular variant, it is more particularly the dicarboxylic acid dimer from which the diol dimer to be esterified is also derived. The dimer diol and carboxylic acid esters may be obtained from a diol dimer produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a dicarboxylic acid dimer as described above, for example hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid. By way of illustration of the diol dimer esters, mention may be made in particular of the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbonaceous polar oil is chosen from isopropyl palmitate or octyldodecanol. The non-volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: non-volatile hydrocarbon-based nonionic oils: These oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. By "apolar oil" in the sense of the present invention is meant an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C, 8 ,, is equal to 0 (J / cm3) 1/2. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: 35 - SD characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - 8p characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - Sh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); and - Sa is determined by the equation: Sa = (81,2 + 8h2) 1/2 The parameters 8p, 8h, SD and Sa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/2. Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil is free of oxygen atom. Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as: paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosane, oil of vaseline, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), L INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MW = 1340 g / mol), the Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), the REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14, polydec and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) sold or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS and mixtures thereof. Nonvolatile hydrocarbon polar oils are mentioned above. The hydrocarbon oil is preferably selected from the group consisting of isododecane, oleyl erucate, rosa canina fruit oil, sesame oil, lanolin oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, tridecyl trimellitate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, diisostearyl malate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C15-C36 triglyceride acids and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the oily composition comprises at least one volatile oil.

Volatile oils For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3). at 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). Hg). The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof. By "silicone oil" is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups. The volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils having in particular an 8 centistokes viscosity (cSt) (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s). The volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 102 ° C., preferably having a flash point greater than 55 ° C. and less than or equal to 95 ° C. C, and preferably ranging from 65 ° C to 95 ° C. The volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms. By way of example of such oils, mention may be made of octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane or D5), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4), dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4 ), KF 96 A from Shin Etsu, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, dodecamethylpentasiloxane (L5) ( INCI name Dimethicone), such as Shin Etsu's KF-96L-2CS and Dow Corning's DM-Fluid-2CS. Preferably, the volatile silicone oil is chosen from linear silicone volatile oils, cyclic silicone volatile oils and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the cyclic silicone volatile oils are chosen from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane or D5) and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), and mixtures thereof. According to another particular embodiment, the linear silicone volatile oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a molecular weight ranging from 1 to 5cst, in particular decamethylpentasiloxane (L5). The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms (preferably from 8 to 14 carbon atoms), and especially volatile hydrocarbon oils whose flash point is less than or equal to 80 ° C. (The flash point is in particular measured according to the ISO 3679 standard), and in particular: - 08-016 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes en 08-016 of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2 , 2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or permetyls, - linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and N-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (011) and n-tridecane ( C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of the application WO2008 / 155059 of Cognis, and mixtures thereof. branched C8-C16 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name ShelI Solt by Shell, can also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. As other volatile hydrocarbon solvents (oils) that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of ketones which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone or acetone; short chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate; ethers which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether. According to one particular embodiment, the oily composition further comprises additional oils chosen from polar or apolar non-volatile oils, in particular non-volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils Vegetable oils are oils obtained from plants and seeds. These include shea oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, calendula oil, jojoba oil, meadowfoam oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, grape seed oil, rose hip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor, and their mixtures. The hydrocarbon esters may in particular be chosen from hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR 'in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. Among these esters, mention may be made, such as isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, octy1-2-docecyl neopentanoate and isopropyl myristate. Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based esters are chosen from isopropyl palmitate, oleyl erucate, hexyl laurate, diisostearyl malate and mixtures thereof. C24-branched fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters 028 such as those described in application EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate (MW = 697.05 g / mol), triisostearate of glyceryl (MW = 891.51 g / mol), glyceryl 2-decyltetradecanoate (MW = 1143.98 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202.02 g / mol), polyglyceryl tetraisostearate-2 (MW = 1232.04 g / mol) or alternatively pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate (MW = 1538.66 g / mol). Preferably, the fatty alcohol or fatty acid ester is pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate. Triglycerides (also known as triacylglycerols or triacylglycerides or TAGs) are glycerides in which the three hydroxyl groups of glycerol are esterified with fatty acids. Preferably, the triglycerides chosen are 0-18-036 liquid triglycerides. Non-volatile silicone oils The aqueous and oily compositions according to the invention may comprise silicone and / or silicone derivatives, preferably phenyl silicone oils such as phenyl dimethicones.

According to one particular embodiment, the oily composition comprises at least one additional non-volatile silicone oil.

Among the silicone derivatives, mention may be made of non-volatile silicone oils which are non-phenylated: non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), PDMSs containing pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having 2 at 24 carbon atoms, PDMSs comprising aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted by a fluorinated group such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the silicone oils are phenylated. As representative of these phenyl silicone oils, mention may be made of: phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: ## STR1 ## in which the R groups represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl, subject to at least one R group represents a phenyl. Preferably in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: RRRIII R-Si-O-Si-O-Si-R IIIRRR (II) RR R-Si O-Si R 1 RO (I) in which the groups R represent independently the each other a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one R group represents a phenyl. Preferably in this formula, said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: Ph Ph Ph / Me / Si-O-Si-O-Si-Me I Ph Me Ph (III) in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl. Such phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl 1,1,3,5,5pentaphenyl trisiloxane, INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: (IV) in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000, and X represents -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) (Ph). the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (V): ## STR1 ## wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl OR 'represents a group - 0SiMe3 and y is 0 or ranges from 1 to 1000, z ranges from 1 to 1000, so that the compound (V) is a non-volatile oil. According to a first embodiment, y varies between 1 and 1000. It is possible to use, for example, trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 marketed by Wacker. According to a second embodiment y is equal to 0. It is possible to use, for example, phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane, sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning. 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VI), and their mixtures: R 1 R, R 5 R, R 1 R 9 Si-O Si 0 Si 0 R, p R, m (VI) in which: R 1 to R 10, independently of one another are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radicals, C 1 -C 30, - m, n, p and q are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum 'm + n + q' is different from 0. Preferably, the sum 'm + n + q' is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum 'm + n + p + q 'is between 1 and 900, more preferably between 1 and 15 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0. - the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VII), and their mixtures: R1 R3 R5 H, C Si -O Si-CH, R2 R6 Si Si 0 R4 O Si (CH3), in which: R1 to R6, independently of one another, are cyclic or branched, linear or saturated hydrocarbon radicals; , in C1-C3 0, - m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum 'n + m' is between 1 and 100. Preferably, R1 to R6 independently each other represents a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, C1-C30, especially C1-C12, and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical. In particular, R1 to R6 may be identical, and may furthermore be a methyl radical. Preferably, one can have m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1, in formula (VII). the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VIII), and their mixtures: ## STR2 ## where: R is a C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical; , an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, - n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and - m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, provided that the sum n + m varies from 1 to 100. In particular , the radicals R of formula (VIII) and R1 to R10 previously defined, may each represent a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, in particular C2-C20, in particular C3-C16 and more particularly C4-C1o , or a C6-C14 mono- or polycyclic aryl radical, especially C10-C13 or an aralkyl radical whose aryl and alkyl radicals are as defined above. Preferably, R of the formula (VIII) and R1 to R10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. According to one embodiment, it is possible to use a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 / s (ie 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably having a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm2 / s (ie 5 to 1000 cSt).

As the phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII), phenyltrimethicones such as Dow Corning DC556 (22.5 cSt), Rhône Poulenc Silbione 70663V30 oil (28 cSt), or diphenyldimethicones such as oils can be used in particular. Belsil, including Belsil PDM1000 (1000cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20cSt) from Wacker. Values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 ° C. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula, and their mixtures: ## STR1 ## in which: R1, R2, R5 and R6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or an aryl radical, X is an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a molecular weight of less than 200 000 g / mol, preferably less than 150 000 g / mol mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol. Phenyl silicones are more particularly chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, the phenyl silicones are more selected from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil according to the invention varies from 500 to 10,000 g / mol. It should be noted that phenyl silicone oils are particularly advantageous. These make it possible in particular to impart a good level of gloss to the deposit on the skin or the lips made with the composition according to the invention, without generating a sticky sensation on the lips.

Preferably, as silicone and silicone derivatives, the aqueous and oily compositions may comprise trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxylsilicate, copolymer of nylon-611 and dimethicone and / or mixtures thereof.

Solid Fatty Substances "Wax" in the context of the present invention means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. ° C up to 200 ° C and especially up to 120 ° C. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC 02000" by the company TA Instruments. Preferably, the waxes have a melting enthalpy 4Hf greater than or equal to 70 J / g.

Preferably, the waxes comprise at least one crystallizable part, visible by X-ray observations. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise of -20. ° C at 120 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 120 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20 ° C to 120 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the following parameters are measured: the melting point (Tf) of the wax, as previously mentioned, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature, - 4Hf: the melting enthalpy of the wax corresponding to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. Illustrative waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by FisherTropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters.

There may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C5-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by DESERT WHALE under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, sunflower oil hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE) and fluorinated waxes.

It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in the application FR-A-2792190. As wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used, alone or as a mixture . Such a wax is in particular sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company Koster Keunen.

Preferably, the wax is selected from the group consisting of microcrystalline wax, acetylated lanolin, beeswax and mixtures thereof.

Gelling agents and structuring agents The aqueous composition may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof. The aqueous composition may thus comprise at least one gelling agent. Preferably, the gelling agent is chosen from aqueous phase gelling agents such as carbomers or gums such as xanthan gum and guar gum.

The lipophilic gelling agents for the oily composition may be chosen from polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents such as silicone gum or minerals such as bentone, and mixtures thereof. The oily composition may therefore further comprise a gelling agent or lipophilic thickening agent. This may be inorganic or organic, polymeric or non-polymeric. Examples of mineral lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from Rheox), hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite) marketed under the denomination "Bentone 38 CE" by the company RHEOX. As inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, it is also possible to mention optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C10-C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, such as for example, that sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS. It is also possible to mention fumed silica optionally treated hydrophobic surface whose particle size is less than 1 micron. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995) and are for example sold under the references Aerosil R812® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by CABOT. dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane, thus treating silicas "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by CABOT. The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm. An organic lipophilic gelling agent may be chosen from polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents, for example: partially or completely crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company Shin ETSU, Trefil E-505C® and Tref il E-506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by the company GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL 20 ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; silicone polyamines of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680, for instance those sold under the reference Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant by the company Dow Corning; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular with C1 to C3 and mixtures thereof; block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those sold under the name Kraton® by Shell Chemical Co., or else from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by the company PENRECO under the name Versagel® such as, for example, the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960). Among the organic lipophilic gelling agents which can be used in an oily composition of the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company CHIBA FLOUR. Preferably, the oily composition comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from the group consisting of distearimonium hectorite, silica dimethyl silylate, dextrin palmitate, polyvinyl laurate, allyl stearate copolymer and sodium acetate. vinyl, and mixtures thereof. Paste-free body According to the invention, at least one of the aqueous and oily compositions comprises at least one pasty fatty substance. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 23 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight. Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have an end-of-melting temperature of less than 60 ° C. Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have a hardness of less than or equal to 6 MPa. Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, visible by X-ray observations. For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis. (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC 02000" by the company TA instruments.

As regards the measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end-of-melting temperature, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance preheated to 80 ° C. and taken from below Magnetic stirring using an equally heated spatula is placed in an airtight aluminum capsule, or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results. The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter aroused. The oven is subjected to a nitrogen sweep. The cooling is ensured by the heat exchanger RCS 90. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol by being first brought to a temperature of 20 ° C. and then subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 20 ° C. to 80 ° C, at the heating rate of 5 ° C / minute, then cooled from 80 ° C to -80 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -80 ° C to 80 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty or wax sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The end-of-melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample melted. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained with the aid of the calorimeter evoked, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C. per minute, according to the standard ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C. consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. With regard to the hardness measurement, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: The pasty fatty substance is placed in a mold 75 mm in diameter which is filled to about 75% of its height. In order to overcome the thermal past and control the crystallization, the mold is placed in the Vôtsch VC0018 programmable oven where it is first heated to 80 ° C for 60 minutes and then cooled to 80 ° C at 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute, then allowed to stabilize at 0 ° C for 60 minutes, then temperature rise from 0 ° C to 20 ° C, at a rate of heating rate of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 20 ° C for 180 minutes. The compression force measurement is performed with the Swantech TA / TX2i texurometer. The mobile used is chosen according to the texture: - mobile cylindrical steel 2mm in diameter for very rigid raw materials; - Cylindrical steel 12mm diameter for raw materials 25 inflexible; The measurement comprises 3 steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample where the mobile moves at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrates into the pasty fatty substance at a depth of penetration of 0.3 mm, the software records the value of the maximum force reached; a second so-called relaxation stage 30 where the mobile stays at this position for one second and where the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally a third so-called withdrawal step where the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm / s and the energy of withdrawal of the probe (negative force) is recorded. The value of the hardness measured in the first step corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in Newton divided by the area of the cylinder of the texturometer expressed in mm 2 in contact with the pasty fatty substance. The value of hardness obtained is expressed in mega-pascals or MPa. The pasty compound is chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol ethers and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof; pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (50E) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 PO) (CTFA name: PPG- Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" by the company Vevy, a mixture where the constituents are in a ratio by weight 46/46/8: 46% of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% of PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8 (3/0 of soybean oil) polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds vinyl polymers, in particular: homopolymers and copolymers of olefins; homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes; linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates having preferably a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group; homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups; homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having alkyl groups of 05-030; liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification; between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-C50 diols, the esters, and / or mixtures thereof.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with long-chain C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides are preferred, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22). mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 0E) marketed under the tradename ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel. Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol, Arachidyl propionate sold under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo; phytosterol esters; triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, for example fatty acid triglycerides, in particular at 010-018, partially or totally hydrogenated such as those marketed under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Sasol, the pentaerythritol esters, the non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between an acid of a linear or branched C 8 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a 02-050 diol or polyol; - the ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with a carboxylic acid aliphatic. Preferably, the aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexydecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is chosen from: a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) partial or total esters of C2 to C16 aliphatic polyols reacted with a mono or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono or poly carboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof. the diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, if appropriate, esterified on their (their) alcohol (s) or free acid (s) function (s) with acidic radicals or alcohols, especially dimer dilinoleate esters, such esters may in particular be chosen from the following INCI nomenclature esters: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and their mixtures. the hydrogenated rosinate esters, such as the dilinoleyl dimers of hydrogenated rosinate (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR from Nippon Fine Chemical), and mixtures thereof. The aqueous and oily compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty fatty substance chosen from triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, preferably chosen from the examples fatty acid triglycerides, in particular from 0-10-C18, partially or totally hydrogenated such as those marketed under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Sasol. Preferably, the pasty fatty substance is chosen from lanolin and its derivatives, esters of an oligomeric glycerol such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2.

The aqueous and oily compositions may further comprise at least one active agent.

The aqueous and oily compositions may further comprise at least one surfactant. The aqueous and oily compositions may further comprise at least one preservative.

The aqueous and oily compositions may further comprise at least one filler. The aqueous and oily compositions may further comprise one or more perfume (s) and / or vitamin (s).

Surfactants The surfactants may be amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic, used alone or in admixture. Mention may be made, for example, as hydrocarbon surfactants, polyol polyesters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the reference ARLACEL P 135 by Uniqema, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the reference DEHYMULS PGPH by Cognis. Mention may be made, for example, as silicone surfactants, alkyldimethicone copolyols, such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name ABIL EM 90 by the company Goldschmidt, or the mixture polyglyceryl-4 isostearate / cetyl dimethicone copolyol / hexyllaurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers can also be added. Advantageously, the co-emulsifier may be chosen from the group comprising the alkylated polyol esters. As alkylated esters of polyol, there may be mentioned in particular esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan and for example polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate sold under the name of LAMEFORM TGI by Cognis, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, such as product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI, sorbitan isostearate of glycerol and sorbitan, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986 denomination by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof. The surfactants according to the invention are more particularly chosen from the group consisting of PPG-5 lanolin wax, C 30 -C 50 alcohols, sorbitan stearate, sucrose cocoate and / or polyglyceryl-4-isostearate. .

According to one embodiment, the aqueous and oily compositions may comprise preservatives, especially chosen from phenoxyethanol and pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. .

Charges According to a preferred embodiment, at least one of the aqueous or oily compositions comprises at least one filler, preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous composition. According to a particular mode, it will be matifying loads. According to another preferred embodiment, at least one of the aqueous or oily compositions comprises at least one filler, preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily composition. By fillers is meant any colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any form, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is made. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-p-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon). ®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap® from Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, by for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. The aqueous or oily compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one gelling / structuring polymer chosen from xanthan gum, carbomers, polyvinyl laurate, allyl stearate copolymer and vinyl acetate copolymer, and dextrin palmitate, polybutene, ethylcellulose and hydroxypropylguar.

The aqueous or oily compositions according to the invention may especially be in the form of a liquid, a gel, a cream or a paste. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are thick, preferably with a viscosity greater than 0.5 Pa.s, according to the protocol described above. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention dry rapidly, that is to say including volatile solvents rapidly drying thin film as spread over a thickness of 1011m its viscosity is multiplied by 4 in 5 min. For this purpose, they may contain solvents with a boiling point <160 ° C. and / or compounds chosen from volatile linear alkanes such as those of C 11 -C 13, isododecane and C 2 -C 4 monoalcohols such as ethanol, and mixtures thereof. The cosmetic product according to the invention is preferably intended to be applied to the lips of a user using a cosmetic product applicator. The applicator is described below with the aid of figures. This applicator comprises an application surface intended to receive the cosmetic product. According to one embodiment, this applicator comprises an application surface (16) having a central region (22) and a peripheral line (24) of contour similar to the contour of the lips of a human being, the central region (22) ) and the peripheral line (24) being intended to receive the cosmetic product. DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES FIG. 1 is a front view of a cosmetic product applicator according to the invention; - Figure 2 is a view taken in section along the transverse plane II of Figure 1; FIG. 3 is a front view of lips 55 on which a cosmetic product applicator according to the invention having a pattern 60 of a color different from the color applied to the rest of the lips has been applied according to the invention. . A particular applicator 10 of cosmetic product according to the invention is illustrated by FIGS. 1 and 2. This applicator 10 is intended to apply cosmetic product to the lips of a user, according to the contour of the lips. According to one embodiment, the applicator 10 comprises a body 14 defining a surface 16 for applying the cosmetic product to the lips. The surface 16 is advantageously delimited in a cavity 18 of the body 16 of shape complementary to that of the lips of a user. As illustrated in FIG. 1, the application surface 16 preferably comprises a hollow central region 22 and a peripheral line 24 having a shape along the contour of the lips of a human being. According to one embodiment, the peripheral line 24 is provided with means 26 for preferential application of cosmetic product to the lips of the user. Once the cosmetic product is loaded onto the applicator 10, the user brings the application surface 16 into contact with his lips. For this purpose, he inserts his lips 10 respectively into the concave spaces 28A, 28B. According to another object, the present invention relates to an applicator (10) of at least one cosmetic product on the lips of a user, of the type comprising an application surface (16), of a shape similar to the shape of the lips of a user. a human being, said application surface being intended to receive cosmetic product, said cosmetic product comprising: at least one aqueous composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium; and - at least one oily composition, distinct from the aqueous composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium; said aqueous composition containing at least 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said aqueous composition, and said oily composition containing less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the oily composition. In a particular embodiment, at least one of the aqueous or oily compositions is not a water-in-oil emulsion. The aforementioned cosmetic product is as defined above. According to a preferred embodiment, the application surface of the applicator (16) has a central region (22) and a contour peripheral line (24) similar to the contour of the lips of a human being, the central region (22) and the peripheral line (24) being intended to receive the cosmetic product. According to one embodiment, one of the two aqueous or oily compositions is in the central region of the application surface and the other composition is on the peripheral line of the application surface.

According to another embodiment, the application surface may have compartments separated by membranes or having different surface treatments. When the compartments are separated by a membrane, it is molded directly during the molding of the applicator. When the application surface has separate compartments, these are characterized by different surface treatments, obtained by depositing on the surface of the applicator different surface tension coatings. These coatings may for example be chosen from: a hydrophilic surface such as a metal surface. For example, a metal salt which is reduced in its native metal form, or a surface formed of a hydrophilic polymer, such as an acrylic copolymer; a hydrophobic surface such as a surface covered with a hydrophobic polymer such as a reactive silicone.

According to another embodiment, the application surface of the applicator may comprise a plurality of orifices or pores communicating with one or more tanks of cosmetic product.

The compositions are then deposited by contact by making an impression on the lips of the user. This, in combination with the rules of formulation to be respected, makes it possible to obtain effects of colors and aspects of the lips, which resist the blotting and the time. By "blotting" is meant the fact of slightly pinching the upper and lower lips against each other, in order to homogenize the amount of product deposited thereon. Blotting can be performed immediately after application of the cosmetic product. According to one embodiment, the cosmetic product is applied to the application surface by hand or by means of a suitable applicator tool. The applicator utensil may comprise one or more compartments, preferably one or two compartment (s) capable of delivering the aqueous and / or oily compositions simultaneously or in two stages. According to a particular embodiment, the applicator utensil may comprise several compartments as well as a means of choosing one and / or two aqueous and / or oily compositions to be deposited on the applicator.

According to another embodiment, the applicator comprises one or more reservoir (s) comprising one or more aqueous and / or oily composition (s). Preferably the applicator comprises two reservoirs each comprising a composition, one aqueous, the other oily.

Preferably, the reservoirs are flexible and the compositions can be released by pressure on the reservoir (s), for example by leaving pores present on the application surface, and can therefore be applied to the lips. According to another embodiment, the applicator comprises one or more compositions, preferably two compositions. The compositions are not deposited or little on the application surface. By an additional stimulus such as the application of an aqueous liquid, or organic or by application of heat, the compositions become capable of being deposited on the lips in case of contact with them. According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous and / or oily compositions may be in liquid form. It is then possible to deposit with a brush, a cotton swab or a finger on the application surface of the applicator the composition (s) to be applied to the lips, then the applicator is brought into contact with the lips, an slight pressure so that the composition (s) is (are) deposited on the lips and then removed the applicator. In the case of an applicator having an application surface with pores, the compositions may be contained in one or more flexible reservoirs located at the back of the applicator. The compositions may be removed from the surface of the applicator by pressure on the reservoir (s). According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous and / or oily compositions may be in the form of sticks. In this case, the compositions may be frictionally applied to the applicator application surface. In the particular case of an applicator having an application surface with pores, the stick may be located at the rear of the applicator. The applicator may be heated to render the compositions as liquid sticks and allow surface exudation by rotation of the stick. According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous and / or oily compositions may be in pasty form. In the particular case of an applicator having an application surface with pores, the compositions may be contained in a syringe and then mechanically extruded by pressing the plunger of the syringe toward the surface of the applicator.

The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use for the makeup of the lips, the kit or the applicator as defined above. The subject of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic cosmetic treatment method for making up the lips, comprising: providing a kit according to the invention; applying aqueous and oily compositions to the application surface of the applicator , (said surface may have compartments separated by membranes or having different surface treatments, and - the application of the application surface on the lips of a user, the present invention also relates to a treatment method non-therapeutic cosmetic lip makeup comprising: - the supply of an applicator as described above, and - the application of the application surface of said applicator on the lips of a user.Expectedly, the inventors have determined that in order to obtain two-color or different appearance effects, it is necessary to follow precise formulation rules. The makeup resulting from the present invention is resistant to transfer, blotting and time, it is necessary to accurately combine the makeup compositions according to certain formulation rules. These rules of formulations are described in the examples below.

EXAMPLES An aqueous and oily compositions were prepared according to the invention, in a conventional manner for a person skilled in the art. Various pairs of compositions were then applied to the applicator as mentioned above. Various pairs of compositions were then applied to the applicator as mentioned above using cotton swabs or brushes. The applicator was then deposited on the lips of a user without waiting.

Two performances were noted: The transfer of two colors: Transfer is understood to mean the deposition of the two compositions on the lips of the user.

The transfer is carried out badly when it causes a mixture of colors (hereinafter "bad transfer"). The transfer is done well when the colors do not mix (hereinafter "good transfer"). - Blotting: After blotting, if the colors mix, the result is not satisfactory (hereinafter "poor resistance to blotting"). After the blotting, if the colors do not mix, the result is satisfactory (hereinafter "good resistance to blotting"). EXAMPLE 1 The following two aqueous compositions were prepared: Aqueous composition 1 (aqueous gel) Ingredients Components Quantity (`) / 0 weight) (Trade references) Active ingredient Sodium hydroxide 0.14 Dyestuff Yellow 5 0.05 Red 4 0.1 Red 33 0.02 Preservative Sodium dehydroacetate 0.5 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Fatty substance Palmitate d isopropyl 3 Carbomer 0.4 polymer (Lubrizol CARBOPOL 980 POLYMER) Xanthan gum 0.2 Solvent 96 ° ethylenic alcohol undenatured 5 Water qs 100 Glycerine 5 Pentylene glycol 3 Viscosity: 0.34 Pa.s according to the measurement protocol described previously. Aqueous Composition Ingredients Components Amounts (commercial references) (% by weight) Color D-sodium salt of acid fuchsin D (Cl: 17200), di-sodium salt of tartrazine (Cl: 19140) and tri-sodium salt of Allurah Red (Cl: 16035) 0.2 Preservative Phenoxy ethanol 0.5 Non-volatile oil Octyldodecanol 33.35 Dispersion of ethylcellulose in water Ethylcellulose 26.2% in water; sodium lauryl sulfate (1.3%) and 33.35 * cetyl alcohol (2.5 (3/0) / AQUACOAT ECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer Polymer Polyvinyl alcohol 0.5 (viscosity: 50 / degree of hydrolysis: 88 %) / CELVOL 540 PV ALCOHOL from CELANESE CHEMICALS Polyphenyltrimethylsiloxy dimethylsiloxane silicone 23 (viscosity: 1000 cSt-MW: 3000 g / mol) / WackerBelsil PDM 1000 from Wacker Solvent 96 degree undenatured ethyl alcohol 3 Water 2.15 Surfactant Stearate blend sorbitan, sucrose cocoate / Arlatone 2121 Croda U 3.95 Total 100 * Expressed by weight of commercial product 1) The aqueous ethylcellulose dispersion is mixed with the non-volatile oil with stirring and heated for 1 h to 2 h at 55 ° C. 2) The surfactant is added and mixed with stirring at 55 ° C until the mixture is homogeneous. 3) The polyvinyl alcohol is added until a homogeneous mixture is obtained and allowed to cool to room temperature. 4) The non-volatile silicone oil is then added, while stirring. 5) The dyes / pigments previously dissolved in water are then added. 6) Finally, the alcohol and phenoxyethanol are added with stirring. Viscosity: 1.4 Pa.s according to the measurement protocol previously described. By applying the two above-mentioned compositions to the applicator and then applying it to the lips, poor transfer and poor blotting resistance were obtained.

This result shows that the use of two aqueous compositions does not make it possible to obtain the desired result.

Example 2: The following two oily compositions were prepared: Oily composition 3 (stick) Ingredients Components quantity (') 0 weight) (commercial references) Colorant Yellow 6 Lake 0.9 Blue 1 Lake 0.07 Red 7 0.25 Titanium dioxide 1.58 Iron oxides 0.07 Fatty substances Microcrystalline wax 3 (Base Wax 30540 by paramelt) Hydrogenated jojoba oil 2 (Jojoba Wax flakes from Desert Whale) Tridecyl trimellilate 6.7 Octyldodecyl PPG3 Myristyl ether dimer dilinoleate 6, 7 (Liquiwax polyEFA OR by Arch Personal care) Nacre Mica-titanium dioxide-brown iron oxide 4 Polymer Vinyl polylaurate 9 (Mexomere PP from Chimex) Copolymer of vinyl acetate and allyl stearate (65/35) (Chimex PQ mexomere) 7 Dextrin palmitate 0.1 Polyester: Pentaerythritol 20 / Benzoic acid 4 / Isostearic acid 56 / Isophthalic acid 20 (as prepared in Example 2 of EP-A1870082) Trimethyl 1,1,3 , 5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane Silicone PH-1555 HRI from Dow Cornin g) qsp 100 C30-50 Alcohols (Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Surfactants Technologies) 1 At first, the pigments are dispersed in Liquiwax and some of the silicone oil.

The remaining liposoluble ingredients and the waxes are mixed at a temperature of 100 ° C. and then the ground material and the remainder of the silicone oil phase are added thereto. The mixture is mixed at a temperature of 100 ° C until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. The composition may be cast in a mold to give it the shape of a stick of diameter 11.06 mm. Viscosity: ND (not determined for a stick Viscosity> 50 Pa.s on such a previously heated stick composition to make the texture measurable). Oily composition 2 (stick) Ingredients Components amount (wt%) (commercial references) Charge Distéardimonium hectorite 0.6 Color Yellow 6 Lake 2.8 Red 7 0.44 Iron oxides 0.02 Fatty substance Microcrystalline wax 2.55 Acetylated lanolin 7.44 Beeswax 4.2 Microcrystalline wax 8 Oleyl erucate 14.9 Rosa canina fruit oil 0.55 Sesame seed oil 14.8 Lanolin oil qs 100 Nacre Mica and titanium dioxide 5 Perfume Fragrance 0.5 Viscosity: ND (not determined for a stick, viscosity> 50 Pa.s on such stick composition previously heated to make the texture measurable).

The preparation of this stick is made according to a conventional protocol, similar to that described in the previous example. By applying the two above-mentioned compositions to the applicator and then applying it to the lips, poor transfer and poor blotting resistance were obtained. This result shows that the use of two oily compositions does not allow to obtain the desired result either. EXAMPLE 3 The following two compositions were prepared, one aqueous, the other oily: The aqueous composition was composition 1 of Example 1. The oily composition was composition 3 of Example 2. By applying the above two compositions to the applicator and then applying it to the lips, a very good transfer and good resistance to blotting was obtained. EXAMPLE 4 The following two compositions were prepared, one aqueous and the other oily: The aqueous composition is the composition 1 of Example 1. The oily composition is the following composition 4: Vitamin 0.55 Acetate of Tocopherol Surfactant 44 Wax Lanolin Oxypropylenated 7.44 Oily Composition 4 (liquid composition for lips) Ingredients Components quantity (`) / 0 weight) (commercial references) Charge Dimethyl silylate silica 8 (AEROSIL R 972 from EVONIK DEGUSSA) Colorant Red 7 0.23 Nacre 2.5 Iron oxides 0.05 Preservative preservatives 0.47 Fatty substances Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 18.95 Diisostearyl malate 10.28 Pentaerythrityl pentaerythrityl 14.42 Tridecyl trimellilate 10.94 Triglycerides C18-C36 Qs 100 (DUB TGI 24 from STEARINERIE DUBOIS) Nacre Mica, titanium dioxide and iron oxides 1 Perfume Fragrance 0.3 Polymer Polybutene (PM: 920, INDOPOL H 100 from INEOS) 12 Viscosity: about 12 Pa.s according to the protocol of measure described previously. By applying the above two compositions to the applicator and then applying it to the lips, a very good transfer and good resistance to blotting was obtained. EXAMPLE 5 The following two compositions were prepared, one aqueous and the other oily: The oily composition is the composition 3 of Example 2. The aqueous composition is the composition of Example 1. - By applying the above two compositions to the applicator and then applying it to the lips, good transfer and very good blot resistance were obtained.

EXAMPLE 6 The following two compositions were prepared, one aqueous, the other oily: The aqueous composition is the composition of Example 1. The oily composition is the composition 4 of Example 4. In applying the above two compositions to the applicator and then applying it to the lips, good transfer and very good blot resistance were obtained.

EXAMPLE 7 The following two compositions were prepared, one aqueous, the other oily: The aqueous composition is the composition of Example 1. The oily composition is the composition 2 of Example 2. In applying the above two compositions to the applicator and then applying it to the lips, good transfer and very good blot resistance were obtained.

It has thus been observed that the crossing of an aqueous composition with an oily composition gives the best results in terms of transfer and blotting, according to the present invention.

Claims (13)

1. Makeup kit comprising: - an applicator (10) of at least one cosmetic product on the lips of a user, of the type comprising an application surface (16), of a shape similar to the shape of the lips of a user; a human being, said application surface being intended to receive cosmetic product, and said cosmetic product comprising: at least one aqueous composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium; and at least one oily composition, distinct from the aqueous composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium; said aqueous composition containing at least 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said aqueous composition, and said oily composition containing less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said oily composition, at least one of the aqueous or oily compositions not being a water-in-oil emulsion. 20 2- kit according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous and oily compositions have a viscosity at 20 ° C greater than 0.3 Pa.s. 3- Kit according to claim 1 or 2 wherein at least one of the aqueous or oily compositions comprises at least one dyestuff, especially selected from pigments, dyes, reflective particles and mixtures thereof. 4. Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the aqueous composition comprises from 20% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition. 5- Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the oily composition comprises a volatile oil, preferably selected from volatile oils silicone. 35 6- Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the oily composition comprises less than 30% by weight of volatile oil. 7- Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the oily composition comprises a fatty phase representing at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said oily composition. 8- Kit according to claim 7 wherein the oily composition comprises at least one solid fat at content equal to or less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 9- Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein each of the aqueous and oily composition comprises at least one dyestuff, the dyestuff of the aqueous composition being different from the dyestuff of the oily composition. 10-Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 9 wherein at least one of the aqueous or oily compositions comprises at least one filler as a matting agent, preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition. 11- makeup kit according to any one of claims 1 to 10 wherein the application surface of the applicator (16) has a central region (22) and a peripheral line (24) contour similar to the contour of the lips of a human being, the central region (22) and the peripheral line (24) being intended to receive the cosmetic product. 12- non-therapeutic cosmetic use for lip makeup, the kit according to any one of claims 1 to 11. 13- Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for making up the lips comprising: - providing a kit according to any one of claims 1 to 11, - the application of aqueous and oily compositions on the application surface of the applicator, said surface may have compartments separated by membranes or having different surface treatments, and the application of the application surface to the lips of a user.