BR102016029937A2 - makeup cosmetic makeup, liquid foundation and use of a makeup cosmetic makeup - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to long-lasting cosmetic makeup compositions, particularly in liquid form, which comprise particles that promote optical masking of fine lines or wrinkles, among other ingredients, providing matte or radiant effect, as well as enhanced tensor effect. , reduction and control of oiliness, sun protection grape / uvb and act promoting skin elasticity and firmness.

Description

(54) Title: COSMETIC MAKEUP COMPOSITION, LIQUID BASE AND USE OF A COSMETIC MAKEUP COMPOSITION (51) Int. Cl .: A61K 8/97; A61K 8/92; A61K 8/99; A61K8 / 73; A61K 8/81; (...) (73) Holder (s): NATURA COSMÉTICOS S.A.

(72) In wind (es): PATRÍCIA DONIZETI GERALDINI; ALCIONE DEL REY CASTRIOTTO (74) Attorney (s): DANNEMANN, SIEMSEN, BIGLER & IPANEMA MOREIRA (57) Abstract: The present invention deals with long-lasting cosmetic makeup compositions, particularly in liquid form, which comprise particles that promote optical disguise of expression lines or wrinkles, among other ingredients, providing a matt or radiant effect, in addition to the improved tensor effect, reduction and control of oiliness, UVA / UVB sun protection and acting to promote skin elasticity and firmness.

9.0 η 8.5 8.0 -

6.0 5.5 5.0 -J -, -, -, -, T0 Ti T2h T4h T6h T8h

Time

1/21

COSMETIC MAKEUP MAKEUP, LIQUID BASE AND USE OF A COSMETIC MAKEUP MAKEUP.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION [001] The present invention deals with long-lasting cosmetic makeup compositions, particularly in the form of liquid base, which comprise particles that promote optical disguise of the expression lines or wrinkles, among other ingredients, providing a matt or radiant effect. , in addition to the improved tensor effect, oil reduction and control, UVA / UVB sun protection and acting to promote skin elasticity and firmness.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION [002] Cosmetic makeup compositions have been widely researched and bring together a number of products with different purposes within the process of temporary beautification.

[003] The cosmetic base, for example, has the function of unifying the skin, hiding spots and imperfections. It is an increasingly demanded product, since its composition, in addition to fulfilling its elementary purpose of temporary coverage, must also be adaptable to the demands of the skin, so as not to cause damage to it. For example, oily skin should use drier products, limiting the use of the product in liquid form. Drier skins, on the other hand, need creamy and liquid make-up, but are oil-free.

[004] Regardless of the type of skin for which it is intended, in addition to good coverage and durability, one of the technical challenges of cosmetic compositions of this nature is not to show wrinkles and expression lines, providing a natural effect.

[005] In this sense, specific combinations of ingredients aimed at cosmetic makeup compositions have been proposed

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 5/42

2/21 in the state of the art, for example, plant extracts, such as babassu particles, silica and even acrylate copolymer, silicone elastomer, etc. However, these combinations still fail to provide a product that, efficiently, does not show wrinkles and expression lines.

[006] Therefore, there is a need for cosmetic makeup compositions, particularly in liquid form, suitable for different skin types, including the most demanding ones, such as oily, which controls oiliness and promotes the optical disguise of expression lines or wrinkles. , providing natural effect, combined with other technologies that promote complementary benefits.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES [007] Figure 1 presents a graph with the averages of brightness by time and treatment.

[008] Figure 2 shows average values of sebaceous secretion obtained before and after 15 minutes, 1, 2, 4, 6 and 8 hours after the first application of the investigational product. Mean ± SE (n = 20).

[009] Figures 3 and 4 show an evaluation of the increase in skin firmness and elasticity by cutometry. Figure 3 shows mean values of the Uf parameter obtained at the beginning of the study and after 7, 14 and 28 days of home use (Mean ± SD, n = 21) and Figure 4 shows mean values of the Ur / Uf parameter obtained at the beginning of the study. study and after 7, 14 and 28 days of home use (Mean ± SD, n = 21).

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [0010] The present invention deals with cosmetic makeup compositions that comprise (a) particles that promote optical disguise of expression lines or wrinkles, associated with (b) at least one active ingredient, (c) at least one agent film former, (d) at least one emollient (e) cosmetically acceptable excipients. [0011] These compositions are made available in the basic form

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 6/42

3/21 liquid and provide a matte and anti-shine effect lasting up to eight hours, suitable for use on normal skin and especially on oily skin.

[0012] By "matt" effect, in the scope of the present invention, it is understood the opaque finish, which results in a dry and low-gloss look.

[0013] The effects of optical disguise of expression lines or wrinkles and of immediate and long-term control of oiliness were surprisingly obtained by the combination of specific particles (microspheres) with babassu polysaccharide.

[0014] Babassu oil (Orbignya phalerata), used in the state of the art, has emollient properties and can be used in skin and hair care products such as bar soaps, conditioners, bath oils due to its moisturizing action , making it suitable for formulations for dry skin, also acting as an oil phase carrier.

[0015] In contrast, babassu polysaccharide has been found to be a glucan type of babassu mesocarp flour suitable for use in cosmetics, mainly for face and makeup products, due to its sensory modifying and oil absorption properties , providing soft, pleasant sensory and improved spreadability in the application. In addition, due to its porosity, it promotes oil absorption, particularly in facial products.

[0016] Thus, cosmetic makeup compositions according to the present invention, which comprise (a) particles that promote optical disguise of expression lines or wrinkles, promote the control of oiliness and immediate excessive shine, and the addition of active ingredients , such as yeast protein and vitamins that treat the skin, reducing greasiness with prolonged use (-28%

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 7/42

4/21 with 2 months of use). These compositions are oil-free, promoting silky and velvety sensorial, besides being long lasting (up to 12 hours) and have a sun protection factor against UVB and UVA radiation. In particular, the compositions according to the present invention also provide an immediate tensing effect, which contributes to the desired beautification result, in addition to promoting a natural effect, collaborating with the skin's elasticity and firmness.

[0017] These benefits make the compositions according to the present invention suitable for use on normal to oily skin.

[0018] Thus, according to the present invention, the compositions comprise about 0.1% to about 25% of particles that promote optical disguise of the expression lines or wrinkles (a) selected from at least one among Orbignya powder phalerata, silica, polymethyl methacrylate, HDI crospolymer / trimethylol hexyl lactone, Cl 77891, mica or Cl 77491.

[0019] Said compositions further comprise about 0.1% to about 20% of at least one active ingredient (b) selected from a mixture of hydrolyzed yeast protein / HCI pyroxidine / niacinamide / glycerin / panthenol / propylene glycol / allantoin / biotin, mixture of tocopheryl acetate / Theobroma Cacao extract / Camellia sinensis extract, biosaccharide gum-2, biosaccharide gum-3, Avena Sativa.

[0020] About 0.1% to about 10% of a film-forming agent (c) selected from acrylate copolymers and about 0.1% to about 35% of at least one emollient (d ) selected from cyclopentassiloxane, crospolymer of dimethicone, isoamyl cocoate, pentylene glycol, PPG-15 stearyl ether / BHT, tipprilyl carbonate.

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 8/42

5/21 [0021] Said compositions may additionally comprise from about 1% to about 9% of at least one emulsifier selected from polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate, mixture of cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone 90, polyglyceryl- 4 isostearate, methyl glucose dioleate, as well as about 0.1% to about 30% of at least one UV filter selected from ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate, zinc oxide, isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate and / or about 0.1% to about 40% of at least one pigment selected from CI77491 / isopropyl titanium tri-isosterate, CI77492 / isopropyl titanium tri-stearate, CI77499 / isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate, CI77891 / isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate and / or about 0.1% to about 15% of at least one viscosity adjuster selected from silica dimethyl silylate, cyclopentasiloxane / propylene carbonate / disteardimony hectorite mixture, xanthan gum and / or about 1% to about 15% hair minus an immediate tensor ingredient skin selected from Avena Sativa extract.

Cosmetically acceptable excipients include, without limitation, those known in the art, for example, fragrances, viscosity agents, chelating agents, preservatives, etc.

[0023] In a second embodiment, the present invention contemplates a liquid base comprising the cosmetic makeup composition according to the present invention.

[0024] In another embodiment, the present invention contemplates the use of a cosmetic makeup composition according to the present invention in the manufacture of a liquid base with matte effect and / or tensor effect.

[0025] The following examples, without imposing any limitation, illustrate the compositions according to the present invention, as well as their effects described herein.

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 9/42

6/21

EXAMPLES

Example 1. Composition of matte effect makeup [0026] The following table illustrates matte effect compositions.

[0027] Table 1. Cosmetic makeup compositions with matte effect

Ingredient Teormínimo tested (%) Maximum content tested (%) Water qsp qsp Orbignya phalerata seed powder 0.1 5.0 Silica 1.0 10.0 hydrolyzed yeast / pyroxidine protein mixture HCI / niacinamide / glycerin / panthenol / propylene glycol / allantoin / biotin 2.0 5.0 Acrylate copolymer 2.0 5.0 cyclopentassiloxane, crospolymer of dimethicone 1.0 10.0 cyclopentasiloxane 5.0 20.0 isoamyl cocoate 2.0 15.0 polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate 1.0 4.0 mixture of cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone 90 1.0 5.0 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 1.0 10.0 diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 0.5 05.0 zinc oxide, isopropyl titanium triisoestearate 1.0 10.0 CI77491 / isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate 2.0 20.0 CI77492 / isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate CI77499 / isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate CI77891 / isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate dimethyl silylate silica 0.5 3.0 cyclopentassiloxane / propylene carbone- hectorite / disteardimony 0.5 10.0 Propanediol 1.0 5.0 fragrance 0.05 1.0 tocopheryl acetate 0.05 2.0 Magnesium sulfate 0.05 3.0 EDTA disagreement 0.05 4.0 Phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, chlorphenesin 0.5 1.5

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 10/42

7/21

Example 2. Tensor effect makeup composition [0028] The following table illustrates Tensor effect compositions.

[0029] Table 2. Cosmetic makeup compositions with a tensor effect

Ingredient Minimum content tested (%) Maximum content tested (%) Water qsp qsp Polymethyl methacrylate / Mica / Titanium Dioxide 0.1 10.0 HDI crospolymer / trimethylol hexyl lactone and silica 0.1 10.0 Mica / Titanium dioxide / Iron oxides 0.1 5.0 Tocopheryl acetate 0.1 2.0 Theobroma Cacao 0.01 2.0 Camellia Sinesis 0.01 2.0 biosaccharide gum-2 0.1 5.0 biosaccharide gum-3 0.1 5.0 Ave in Sativa 1.0 10.0 Acrylate copolymer 0.1 10.0 Pentylene glycol 1.0 3.0 Cyclopentasiloxane 0.1 5.0 PPG-15 stearyl ether 0.1 10.0 Dicaprilil carbonate 0.1 10.0 Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate 0.1 10.0 Methyl glucose dioleate 0.1 10.0 mixture of cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone 90 0.1 10.0 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 0.1 10.0 diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 0.1 10.0 Zinc oxide 0.1 10.0 CI77491 / isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate 0.1 10.0 CI77492 / isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate 0.1 10.0 CI77499 / isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate 0.1 10.0 CI77891 / isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate 0.1 10.0 Xanthan gum 0.1 1.0 silica dimethyl silylate 0.1 3.0

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 11/42

8/21

mixture of cyclopentassiloxane / propylene carbonate / disteardimony hectorite 1.0 10.0 Fragrance 0.05 1.0 Magnesium sulfate 0.05 3.0 EDTA disagreement 0.05 4.0 slodopropynyl butylcarbamate 0.1 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.9 0.9

Example 3. Evaluation of reduced skin brightness (matte effect) after application of a topical product by image analysis and evaluation of perceived effectiveness by the study participant with the composition of example 1 [0030] The purpose of this study was to verify the effectiveness of the composition of example 1 in the reduction of the brightness of the skin (matte effect) of the participants, through the analysis of images and the subjective perception of the study participant through questionnaires of Perceived Efficacy assessments.

[0031] The research participants were evaluated by a dermatologist at the beginning of the research (T0) to check the inclusion and exclusion criteria and were also evaluated at the end of the day to check for possible reactions or discomfort during the period of use of the product.

[0032] After the initial medical evaluation, frontal images of the participants were obtained with the Visia CR (Canfield Imaging Systems) equipment. The product was applied to the participants' half faces. The application side was randomized. New frontal images were obtained immediately, 2, 4, 6 and 8 hours after application of the product. [0033] Participants answered a questionnaire 15 minutes, 2, 4, 6 and 8 hours after applying the product.

[0034] Participants remained in a room with controlled temperature and humidity (20Ό ± 2 ° C and 50% ± 5 RH) for 30 minutes before and during the measurements.

[0035] Analysis of Brightness and Matte Effect by Image: the product

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 12/42

9/21 promoted a decrease in brightness, immediately after its application, and after two, four, six and eight hours of application compared to the control (untreated area).

[0036] Evaluation of effectiveness perceived by the research participant after fifteen minutes of application of the product:

[0037] · 100% of the evaluated participants answered “yes” to the question “After 15 minutes of applying the product, did I notice a REDUCTION OF THE GLOSS CAUSED BY THE EXCESS OF OILY OF MY SKIN (MATTE EFFECT)?

[0038] · 91% of the participants answered “yes” to the question “After 15 minutes of applying the test product I realized that the product provides a NATURAL EFFECT (without the appearance of excessively made-up or artificial skin, harmonious with your skin)?” [0039] Evaluation of effectiveness perceived by the research participant after 2 hours of application of the product:

[0040] · 100% of the evaluated participants answered “yes” to the question “After two hours of applying the product, did I notice a REDUCTION OF THE GLOSS CAUSED BY THE EXCESS OF OILY OF MY SKIN (MATTE EFFECT)?

[0041] · 95% of participants answered “yes” to the question “After two hours of applying the test product I realized that the product provides a NATURAL EFFECT (without the appearance of excessively made-up or artificial skin, harmonious with your skin)?”.

[0042] Evaluation of effectiveness perceived by the research participant after 4 hours of application of the product:

[0043] · 100% of the evaluated participants answered “yes” to the question “After four hours of applying the product, did I notice a REDUCTION OF THE GLOSS CAUSED BY THE EXCESS OF OILY OF MY SKIN (MATTE EFFECT)?

[0044] · 100% of participants answered “yes” to the question

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 13/42

10/21 "After four hours of applying the test product I realized that the product provides a NATURAL EFFECT (without the appearance of excessively made-up or artificial skin, harmonious with your skin)?".

[0045] Evaluation of effectiveness perceived by the research participant after 6 hours of application of the product:

[0046] · 100% of the evaluated participants answered “yes” to the question “After six hours of applying the product, I noticed a REDUCTION OF THE GLOSS CAUSED BY THE EXCESS OF OILY OF MY SKIN (MATTE EFFECT)?”.

[0047] · 100% of participants answered “yes” to the question “After six hours of applying the test product I realized that the product provides a NATURAL EFFECT (without the appearance of excessively made-up or artificial skin, harmonious with your skin)?”.

[0048] Evaluation of effectiveness perceived by the research participant after 8 hours of application of the product:

[0049] · 100% of the evaluated participants answered “yes” to the question “After eight hours of applying the product, I noticed a REDUCTION OF THE GLOSS CAUSED BY THE EXCESS OF OILY OF MY SKIN (MATTE EFFECT)?”.

[0050] · 100% of participants answered “yes” to the question “After eight hours of applying the test product I realized that the product provides a NATURAL EFFECT (without the appearance of excessively made-up or artificial skin, harmonious with your skin)?”.

Example 4. In vitro study of the durability property of makeups using VitroSkin® as a mimetic substrate for human skin with the composition of example 1.

[0051] For each evaluation time (0, 2, 8 and 12 hours) 6 pieces of VitroSkin® (IMS Testing Group, USA) with a useful area of 35 mm x 23 mm were prepared and pre-hydrated to which they were applied homogeneously a mass of 1.0 mg.cm-2 of the test substance in

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 14/42

11/21 study. Initial scanned images were obtained under white and black backgrounds. Then, the parts with the test substance applied were subjected to the simulated durability test in a climatic chamber, being kept for 2 hours at 37 ° C and 90 ± 5% relative humidity. After the simulation time, the pieces were scanned again under the white and black backgrounds. The procedure was repeated for 8 and 12 hours. From the images obtained, initial and at each simulation time, the initial and after exposure opacities were calculated. The durability was determined according to the maintenance of the opacity (equivalent to the coverage) of VitroSkin® with the test substance applied after the durability simulation time in relation to the initial one.

[0052] According to the results obtained, the average durability of the test substance evaluated, applied on VitroSkin®, was 99.9% after 2 hours, 99.8% after 8 hours and 99.4% after 12 hours of exposure in the climate simulator. The average values obtained for durability were significantly higher than a minimum value, arbitrarily defined, of 90% durability, at all times evaluated. In this sense, according to the established parameters, it can be inferred that the composition according to example 1 supports the long-term appeal up to 12 hours after application.

Example 5. Evaluation of the reduction and control of skin oiliness by sebum analysis with the composition of example 1 [0053] 20 research participants completed the study; mean age: 47 ± 5 years. There were no reports or evidence of an adverse reaction during the study.

[0054] The methodology consisted of evaluating the reduction and control of facial skin oiliness after 15 minutes, 1, 2, 4, 6 and 8 hours after the first application in the laboratory and after 28 and 56 days of home use of the investigational product. The oiliness assessment was carried out

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 15/42

12/21 using sebummetry measurements (Sebumeter® SM 815 and Multiprobe Adapter MPA-5, CKeletronics, Germany). The reduction in sebummetry values indicates a reduction in facial skin oiliness. On the first day of study, the participants also answered the questionnaire for sensory analysis for perceived effectiveness.

[0055] According to the results obtained, it was concluded that:

[0056] - Sebumetry: the composition according to example 1 provided a significant reduction in facial skin oiliness after 15 minutes, 1, 2, 4, 6 and 8 hours after application, in relation to the initial skin condition and control ( Water). This indicated that its application reduced and controlled the facial skin oiliness for up to 8 hours. The percentage values obtained for oil reduction, in relation to the initial state of the skin and the control, were: 15.1% after 15 minutes, 25.8% after 1 hour, 34.4% after 2 hours, 43.0% % after 4 hours, 48.8% after 6 hours and 51.2% after 8 hours of applying the composition. 100% of the research participants showed a reduction in facial skin oiliness after applying the composition.

[0057] - The composition according to example 1 provided a significant average reduction in facial skin oiliness of 14.9% after 28 days and 27.0% after 56 days of home use, in relation to the initial skin condition. This indicated that the prolonged treatment with the composition reduced and controlled the facial skin oiliness. 95.0% of the survey participants showed a reduction in facial skin oiliness after 28 days and 100.0% after 56 days of home use of the composition, in relation to the initial condition.

[0058] - Sensory analysis for perceived efficacy: 100.0% of the research participants noticed a reduction in skin brightness caused by excess oil (matte effect) after 15 minutes, 1, 2, 4, 6 and 8 hours after applying the composition.

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 16/42

13/21 [0059] - 75.0% of the research participants noticed the natural effect (without the appearance of excessively made-up or artificial skin, harmonious with the skin) provided by the composition after 15 minutes, 80.0% after 1 hour, 85 % after 2 and 4 hours and 90% after 6 and 8 hours after application.

Example 6. Clinical study to determine photoprotective efficacy for UVA with the compositions of examples 1 and 2:

[0060] The UVA photoprotective effectiveness of the composition, according to the ISO 24442: 2011 methodology - Cosmetics - Sun Protection Test Methods - in vivo Determination of Sunscreen UVA Protection was tested.

[0061] The compositions according to examples 1 and 2 of the present invention and the standard sunscreen are applied to demarcated areas on the back of volunteers with phototype II to IV.

[0062] After application, the areas are exposed to ultraviolet radiation. The UVA protection of the product is determined by the ratio between the radiation dose required to cause pigmentation on the skin protected by the products and on the unprotected skin.

[0063] 10 volunteers of both sexes were included, according to the inclusion and non-inclusion criteria for carrying out the study.

[0064] Of these, all completed the study.

[0065] 70 mg of the product applied in an area of ³⁵ cm ² on the back.

[0066] The average FP-UVA found for the products was 5.3 with a standard deviation of 1.2.

Example 7. Clinical study to determine the sun protection factor (SPF) - International Sun Protection Factor (Sof) Test Method 2006 of the composition of example 1 [0067] The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the composition, according to the methodology International SPF Test Method 2006 Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 17/42

14/21

Colipa / JCIA / CTFA-SA was tested [0068] The composition and the standard sunscreen are applied to demarcated areas on the back of volunteers with phototype I to III.

[0069] After application, the areas are exposed to ultraviolet radiation. The SPF of the composition is determined by the ratio between the radiation dose required to cause erythema on the skin protected by the products and on the unprotected skin.

Population Description:

[0070] - Number of volunteers included = 11;

[0071] - No. of volunteers who completed the study = 10;

[0072] - Number of volunteers with data used in the conclusion = 10. [0073] Application area: 70mg of the product applied in an area of 35cm ² on the back.

[0074] The study was conducted in accordance with the guidelines of Good Clinical Practice and the NBR ISO9001: 2008 Standard. Quality control is performed at each stage of the method.

[0075] Results: the average SPF found for the products was 16.2 with a 10.9% confidence interval.

Example 8. Evaluation of the increase in skin firmness and elasticity by cutometry of the composition of example 2 [0076] The methodology consisted of the evaluation of the increase in skin firmness and elasticity through cutometry measures (Cutometer® MPA-580 and Multiprobe Adapter MPA -580, CKeletronics, Germany) performed at the beginning of the study and after 7, 14 and 28 days of home use of the composition in participants with a mean age of 48 ± 7 years. The increase in skin firmness was assessed using the parameter Uf, which corresponds to the maximum deformation of the skin after applying a force. The increase in skin elasticity was assessed using the Ur / Uf parameter, which consists of the ratio between immediate shrinkage and total skin deformation and corresponds to biological elasticity. O

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 18/42

15/21 increase in skin firmness is evidenced by the reduction of the Uf parameter, which reflects the increase in the properties of elastic and collagen fibers. The increase in skin elasticity is evidenced by the increase in the Ur / Uf parameter, which reflects the increase in the properties of elastic fibers.

[0077] The composition was applied once a day, preferably during the day on clean, dry skin in a small amount on the face and neck and spread with light touches.

[0078] According to the results obtained it was possible to verify that the application of the composition according to the present invention conferred:

[0079] - significant increase in skin firmness of 10.8% after days of home use, and 95.2% of the research participants showed a positive result after treatment with the composition according to the present invention.

[0080] - significant increase in skin elasticity 4.4% after days and 6.5% after 28 days of home use, and 85.7% of the research participants showed a positive result after treatment with the composition of present invention.

[0081] From the average values of the parameter Uf, the skin firmness coefficient (CF) and the percentage of increase in skin firmness (% AF) are calculated, according to Equations 1 and 2.

[0082] CFti = UftO / Ufti (Equation 1) [0083] where: CFti = firmness coefficient, Ufti = average values of the parameter Uf obtained after i days of study (i = 7, 14 or 28 days); UftO = mean values of the parameter Uf obtained at the beginning of the study (baseline). [0084]% AFti = 100 * (UftO - Ufti) / UftO (Equation 2) [0085] where:% AFti = percentage of increased firmness; Ufti = mean values of the parameter Uf obtained after i days of study (i = 7, 14 or 28 days); UftO = average values of the parameter Uf obtained at the beginning

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 19/42

16/21 of the study (baseline).

[0086] From the average values of the Ur / Uf parameter, the skin elasticity coefficient (CE) and the percentage of increase in skin elasticity (% AE) are calculated, according to Equations 3 and 4. [0087] CEti = Ur / Uf ti / Ur / Uf tO (Equation 3) [0088] where: CEti = elasticity coefficient; Ur / Ufti = average values of the Ur / Uf parameter obtained after i days of study (i = 7, 14 or 28 days); Ur / Uf t0 = average values of the Ur / Uf parameter obtained at the beginning of the study (baseline).

[0089]% AEti = 100 * (Ur / Uf ti - Ur / Uf tO) / Ur / Uf tO (Equation 4) [0090] where:% AEti = percentage of increase in elasticity;

Ur / Ufti = average values of the Ur / Uf parameter obtained after i days of study (i = 7, 14 or 28 days); Ur / UftO = average values of the Ur / Uf parameter obtained at the beginning of the study (baseline).

[0091] The significance of increased skin firmness and elasticity is assessed by applying the bimodal, paired t-Student test method, considering a 95% confidence interval, to the baseline mean values of the Uf and Ur / Uf parameters, respectively, in relation to the values obtained after i days of use; i = 7, 14 and 28 days.

[0092] The appropriate result is achieved when Ufti is significantly less than UftO (P <0.05), indicating an increase in skin firmness.

[0093] Regarding elasticity, the appropriate result is achieved when Ur / Ufti is significantly higher than Ur / Uf tO (P <0.05), indicating an increase in skin elasticity.

[0094] The comparison between the evaluation times, necessary to verify if the prolonged treatment with the investigational product intensifies the increase of the firmness and elasticity of the skin, was carried out by applying the method of analysis of variance of single factor (ANOVA), with Tuckey post-test, considering an interval of

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 20/42

17/21 95% confidence in the calculated values of skin firmness coefficient (CF) and skin elasticity coefficient (CE), respectively. [0095] According to the result obtained, it was possible to observe a significant increase (P <0.05) of the Ur / Uf parameter after 14 and 28 days of home use. This indicated that the use of the investigational product provided an increase in skin elasticity.

[0096] The product provided an increase in elasticity, in relation to the initial condition of the skin, of 4.4% after 14 days and 6.5% after 28 days of home use.

[0097] It was possible to verify that 62% of the research participants showed increased skin elasticity after 14 days and 86% after 28 days of using the investigational product at home.

[0098] According to the study protocol and procedures used to assess the increase in skin firmness and elasticity provided by the application of the investigational product, it was found that:

[0099] - there was a significant increase in skin firmness after 28 days of home use.

[00100] - the percentage value obtained from the increase in firmness, in relation to the initial condition of the skin, was 10.8% after 28 days of home use.

[00101] - 95.2% of the research participants showed a positive result after treatment with the investigational product. Evaluation of skin elasticity:

[00102] - there was a significant increase in skin elasticity after and 28 days of home use.

[00103] - the percentage values obtained from increased elasticity, in relation to the initial condition of the skin, were 4.4% after 14 days and 6.5% after 28 days of home use.

[00104] - 85.7% of the survey participants presented a result 870160077138, from 12/20/2016, p. 21/42

18/21 positive after treatment with the investigational product.

Example 9. Clinical study to determine photoprotective efficacy

UVA - PPD methodology of the composition of example 2 [00105] The investigational product and the standard sunscreen were applied to demarcated areas on the back of volunteers with phototypes II to IV. After application, the areas are exposed to ultraviolet radiation. The UVA protection of the product is determined by the ratio between the radiation dose required to cause pigmentation on the skin protected by the products and on the unprotected skin.

Population description?

[00106] - Number of volunteers included = 10;

[00107] - N ° of volunteers who completed the study = 10;

[00108] - N ° of volunteers with data used in the conclusion = 10. [00109] Application area: 70mg of the product applied in an area of 35m ² on the back.

[00110] The study was conducted in accordance with the guidelines of Good Clinical Practice and the NBR ISO 9001: 2008 Standard. Quality assurance is carried out at each stage of the method.

[00111] Results: the average FPUVA found for the product was 5.1, with a standard deviation of 0.7.

Example 9. Clinical study to determine the Protection Factor

Solar (FPS) - International Sun Protection Factor (SPF) Test Method

2006 of the composition of example 2 [00112] The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the composition was determined according to the International methodology SPF Test Method 2006 - Colipa / JCIA / CTFA-SA.

[00113] The investigational product and the standard sunscreen are applied to demarcated areas on the back of volunteers with phototypes I to III. After application, the areas are exposed to ultraviolet radiation. The SPF of the product is determined by the ratio of the radiation dose

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 22/42

19/21 necessary to cause erythema on the skin protected by products and on unprotected skin.

Population Description:

[00114] - Number of volunteers included = 10;

[00115] - N ° of volunteers who completed the study = 10;

[00116] - Number of volunteers with data used in the conclusion = 10. [00117] Application area: 70mg of the product applied in an area of 35cm ² on the back.

[00118] The study was conducted in accordance with the guidelines of Good Clinical Practice and the NBR ISO9001: 2008 Standard. Quality control is performed at each stage of the method.

Results:

[00119] - The average SPF found for the product was 16.8, with a 15.1% confidence interval.

Example 10. In vitro study of the durability of the composition of example 2 [00120] In vitro study of the durability of the composition of example 2 was carried out using VitroSkin® as a substrate mimetic to human skin.

[00121] For each evaluation time (0, 2, 8 and 12 hours) 6 pieces of VitroSkin® (IMS Testing Group, USA) with a useful area of 35 mm x 23 mm were prepared and pre-hydrated to which they were applied homogeneously a mass of 1.0 mg.cm-2 of the sample of the product under study. Initial scanned images were obtained under white and black backgrounds. Then, the pieces with the applied sample were submitted to the simulated durability test in a climatic chamber, being kept for 2 hours at 37 ° C and 90 ± 5% relative humidity. After the simulation time, the pieces were scanned again under the white and black backgrounds. The procedure was repeated for 8 and 12 hours. From the images obtained, initials and at each

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 23/42

20/21 simulation time, initial and after exposure opacities were calculated. The durability was determined according to the maintenance of the opacity (equivalent to the coverage) of VitroSkin® with the product applied after the durability simulation time in relation to the initial one.

[00122] According to the results obtained, the average durability of the evaluated sample, applied on VitroSkin®, was 99.2% after 2 hours, 98.7% after 8 hours and 98.5% after 12 hours of exposure in the climate simulator. The average values obtained for durability were significantly higher than a minimum value, arbitrarily defined, of 90% durability, at all times evaluated. In this sense, according to the established parameters, it can be inferred that the composition of example 2 has a long duration, up to 12 hours after application.

Example 11. Evaluation of cutaneous and ocular acceptability of the composition of example 2 under normal conditions of use [00123] The acceptability of the composition of example 2 was carried out by confirming the absence of adverse events and sensations of skin and eye discomfort, when applied under conditions recommended for use, through use accompanied by a dermatologist and ophthalmologist.

[00124] 35 participants (female, 19-58 years old, phototypes II to IV (Fitzpatrick)) were instructed to use the composition at home daily, on the face and neck, for 21 days (+/- 2 days ). They were evaluated by dermatologists and ophthalmologists before using the product (D0) and after 21 days (+/- 2 days) of using the product (D21). Participants were supervised by dermatologists and ophthalmologists during the study period. [00125] 35 participants completed the study. No clinical signs related to the use of the product were observed during the study.

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 24/42

21/21 [00126] According to the conditions of the test, results obtained and the indicated mode of use, it is concluded that no participant presented clinical cutaneous or ocular signs related to the use of the product. [00127] The man of the art will readily be able to evaluate, by means of the teachings contained in the text and in the examples presented, the advantages of the invention and to propose equivalent variations and alternatives of realization, without departing from the scope of the invention, as defined in the attached claims.

Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 25/42

1/3

Claims (13)

1. Cosmetic makeup composition characterized by the fact that it comprises: a) particles that promote optical disguise of expression lines or wrinkles; b) at least one active ingredient; c) at least one film forming agent; d) at least one emollient; e) cosmetically acceptable excipients. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that it comprises about 0.1% to about 25% of particles that promote optical disguise of the expression lines or wrinkles (a) selected from at least one among powder of Orbignya phalerata, silica, polymethyl methacrylate, crospolymer HDI / trimethylol hexyl lactone, Cl 77891, mica or Cl 77491. 3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that it comprises about 0.1% to about 20% of at least one active ingredient (b) selected from a mixture of hydrolyzed yeast / pyroxidine HCI / niacinamide / glycerin / panthenol / propylene glycol / allantoin / biotin, mixture of tocopheryl acetate / Theobroma Cacao extract / Camellia sinensis extract, biosaccharide gum-2, biosaccharide gum-3, Avena Sativa. 4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that it comprises about 0.1% to about 10% of a film-forming agent (c) selected from acrylate copolymers. 5. Composition according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that it comprises about 0.1% to about 35% of at least one emollient selected from cyclopentasiloxane, crospoPetição 870160077138, from 12/20/2016, p. 26/42 2/3 dimethicone, isoamyl cocoate, pentylene glycol, PPG-15 stearyl ether / BHT, tipprilyl carbonate. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it additionally comprises from about 1% to about 9% of at least one emulsifier selected from polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate, mixture of cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone 90, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, methyl glucose dioleate. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it additionally comprises about 0.1% to about 30% of at least one UV filter selected from ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate, zinc oxide, isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it additionally comprises about 0.1% to about 40% of at least one pigment selected from CI77491 / isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate, CI77492 / isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate, CI77499 / isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate, CI77891 / isopropyl titanium tri-isostearate. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it additionally comprises about 0.1% to about 15% of at least one viscosity adjuster selected from silica dimethyl silylate, mixture of cyclopentassiloxane / propylene carbonate / disteardimonyhectorite, xanthan gum. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it additionally comprises about 1% to about 15% of at least one immediate skin tightening ingredient selected from Avena Sativa extract. 11. Net base characterized by the fact that it comprises Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 27/42 3/3 of the cosmetic makeup composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10. 12. Use of a cosmetic make-up composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized by the fact that it is in the manufacture of a liquid foundation with a matte effect. 13. Use of a cosmetic makeup composition as defined in any of claims 1 to 10, characterized by the fact that it is in the manufacture of a liquid base with a tensor effect. Petition 870160077138, of 12/20/2016, p. 28/42 1/2