1 Introduction
Disability art, i.e., art created and performed by disabled people, is an integral part of the disability rights and justice movement [
30,
77,
110,
116]. By offering varied representations of disability experience, disability art disrupts the ableist narrative that views disability as a deficit [
130], exposes exclusionary social norms [
10], and promotes a positive identity of disabled people that celebrates disabled life and disability community [
47,
116]. Consider the following quote from one of our informants, Lisa,
1 a legally blind and nerve deaf musician, songwriter, and weaver who has been part of a community weaving studio for visually impaired adults for 9 years:
“Our music, our weaving, art is a part of our lives... In my case, as a visually impaired person—from spinning to knitting to crocheting to weaving... I wanna keep this art alive so that whether you go to a cultural center or civic center, you go through the Smithsonian, you see my legacy, you’ll see it for plenty of years to come... Whether you knew my name or not... my name is in my work. This is who I was.”
The rich practices and innovative work produced by disabled artists have long been discussed within Disability Studies literature [
130,
133,
135]; yet, disabled artists and makers like Lisa are rarely featured in the extensive scholarship on making and design. Recent HCI research has called attention to the ways elite status of design excludes and under-values labor of certain communities [
11,
51,
89] including those of disabled people [
95] and tends to view them as non-designers while positioning non-disabled people as designing for them [
16,
17]. Relatedly, scholars have started studying why and how disabled people engage in making [
15,
26,
64,
75,
120] and how their labor of making is valued [
37]. Others have identified existing accessibility issues in makerspaces [
95,
121] and maker technologies [
27,
73,
74] and built new solutions to address these issues [
106,
117]. Much of this prior work focuses on enabling opportunities for disabled people to perform making
independently [
27,
56,
75,
87,
95]. Recently, however, Disability Studies and accessibility scholars have started moving from independence to an
interdependence perspective [
14,
62,
96,
129,
132], highlighting the roles that both disabled people and their non-disabled allies and collaborators play in accessible making [
37,
67,
68,
133]. Aligning with this rhetorical turn, our work examines the collaborative practice of fabric pattern design within a US-based community of blind weavers who create hand-woven products with sighted instructors.
To date, limited prior studies have investigated accessibility in traditional forms of making and fiber arts, although disabled people have a long history of involvement in these practices [
23,
34,
50]. Moreover, fiber arts like weaving are often regarded as precursors of computing [
49,
127] that foreground under-acknowledged stories of design [
115]. The process of designing fabric patterns is algorithmic in nature in that weavers can produce numerous patterns by combining and repeating sequences in different orders. Pattern design also requires visualizing weaving sequences and fabric previews that portray various geometric shapes, e.g., diamonds, squares, or ovals. Thus, studying accessible pattern design can reveal new understandings of visual-spatial information processing [
31,
83,
102] and algorithmic thinking among blind individuals. Furthermore, the limited prior work that did explore fiber arts practices among blind artists revealed that these artists value creating high-quality fabrics and unique designs that are not only visually appealing to sighted recipients but also aesthetically meaningful to themselves [
20,
37,
56,
61]. Hence, to understand and enhance accessible making and fiber arts, it is important to examine the ways in which blind individuals engage in the design aspects of weaving—of which pattern drafting is a significant part—and develop new ways to make this process more accessible to blind weavers.
To this end, the present paper analyzes how blind weavers work with sighted instructors to design, plan, and execute the complex procedure of generating fabric patterns and introduces a new system to explore whether and how technology can augment their design workflow. Grounded in our formative interviews with fourteen blind weavers and three sighted instructors, we developed Simphony, an audio-tactile system that incorporates sonification techniques, spoken audio, and a tactile overlay to better support blind weavers in creating and perceiving fabric patterns. We report findings from eight design exploration sessions, detailing how blind weavers and sighted instructors used Simphony to generate new patterns together, what they learned from these activities, and how they valued and made sense of their creations.
Our work makes three primary contributions. First, we provide a deeper empirical understanding of how blind and sighted collaborators work together to anticipate the look and feel of the final woven product and conceptualize how a fabric comes into being from particular configurations of fibers and physical operations on the loom. Our findings complement prior research that explores the intersection of crafting and interaction design (e.g., [
43,
49,
52,
115]), foregrounding the ways in which blind weavers engage in design work. Second, we introduce a variety of audio-tactile techniques to help blind weavers learn underlying mechanisms of weaving, revealing novel insights about collaborative understanding of pattern design. Third, by analyzing the case of pattern design, we discuss ways to integrate technological augmentations into traditional forms of craft and how blind artists can combine different art forms (e.g., music and weaving) to foster creative expression.
3 Background: Weaving Process and Designing A Weaving Draft
Weaving involves interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to form a fabric. The vertical yarns (called
warp) are held stationary in tension between two beams at the front and back of the loom, while the horizontal yarn (called
weft) is inserted over and under the warps (Figure
1, left). Between the two beams, warps pass through needle-like structures called
heddles, each with an opening through which an individual warp yarn is passed. Heddles are suspended vertically from frames called
shafts. Each shaft along with their heddles can be moved up/down to separate the warps into two planes, forming a vertical gap, i.e.,
shed. The movement of the shafts is controlled by pressing down
treadles (i.e., pedals) by foot or pulling down
levers by hand according to pre-defined sequences. The weft is then inserted through the shed using a carrier device called a
shuttle. As the shuttle moves back and forth through the shed, it weaves an edge on each side of the fabric to prevent the fabric from unraveling. Each pass of the weft yarn is called a
pick.
To ensure that the desired pattern appears on the fabric, a weaver needs to prepare a 2-dimensional set of instructions (called the
weaving draft) [
72] before starting to weave on a loom (Figure
1, right). The draft comprises three input panels: a
threading sequence that decides which warp yarn will be connected to which shaft through heddles; a
tie-up table that maps which shafts are tied to which treadles; and a
treadling sequence that dictates the order in which treadles are pressed during weaving. These input panels determine the resultant fabric pattern, which is graphically represented in the
drawdown, i.e., the 2D grid where each cell shows whether the weft yarn lies over or under the warp yarn at each intersection.
5 Formative Study: Findings
Our analysis revealed the ways in which blind weavers express themselves through pattern design, perceive patterns on woven fabrics, visualize patterns before weaving, and use tactile representations to facilitate their understanding of patterns.
5.1 Self-Expression through Pattern Design
Although blind weavers at the community studio did not directly take part in designing patterns, our interviews revealed that they deeply cared about creating aesthetically meaningful, high-quality products and decided upon various design parameters such as textures, colors, and acoustics of their woven pieces. To them, woven fabrics embodied a form of storytelling, where each yarn—through its unique texture and interrelationship with surrounding yarns—conveyed moments from the weaver’s imagination or relics of their lived experiences. Lisa explained,
“As blind people, [we] want to tell a story using our senses, using our hands. And we want others to understand our world as well as theirs.” She described how her indigenous and African-American roots influenced her color choices:
“I want to do some African colors versus Indian colors...Brown, green, basically earth tones, the way we as American Indian tribes did.” As another poignant example, Helen made a memorial ribbon during the pandemic
“representing the people [who] lived here and passed on here (at the assisted living facility)…[with] blueish gray, then beige... and then red for the tip of the cane for the blind.” Developing a shared understanding of such entrenched values was critical for sighted instructors as well so that they could attune to the weavers’ narratives while modifying design parameters of a project.
Interestingly, music was a key part of how many weavers expressed themselves through pattern design. Especially those who were proficient musicians felt that
“weaving and music go hand in hand.” Noah said,
“Whenever I play a note, it makes me think of different designs to weave with.” For Lisa,
“the softness of the instruments… the texture of the music”—all evoked new imaginations about colors, textures, and patterns. In a communal project called “sound weaving” (Figure
2), these weavers attached to their woven pieces various objects that made sounds when touched or rubbed (e.g., bells, beads, aluminum foil, pop can tabs, cellophane, etc.) or are associated with music and personally meaningful to them, for instance, cassette tapes and guitar strings that the weavers owned and mp3 players with audio recordings of them
“doing the rhythm of the loom,” i.e., performing weaving motions (Noah), playing instruments (Lisa), or imitating screen reader voices (Paul). Thus, blind weavers at the community studio valued integrating their own narratives into the weaving process through textures, colors, and acoustics. However, inaccessible draft design tools coupled with inadequate resources and limited time for training (e.g., a small number of instructors and shared looms) made it challenging for these weavers to fully participate in pattern design. Still several weavers (Eric, Tina, Helen, Adam, and Beth) wanted
“to be shown what the pattern looks like in the instructors’ book” or to
“look at the computer program and try to copy what it looks like on the loom.” Paul, Ruby, and Tina even showed enthusiasm for listening to patterns where colors would be represented with music. Instructor Sara added,
“Giving them more to do with the [design] process would increase their involvement, appreciation and enjoyment of the whole activity.” These excerpts indicate the potential value of new design tools that can enrich blind weavers’ creative expression through the fusion of music and weaving.
5.2 Iteratively Perceiving Patterns on Woven Fabrics
Although the blind weavers in our study were interested in taking a more active role in the design process, a key challenge involved perceiving fabric patterns. Echoing findings from previous work [
20,
37], blind weavers shared that they
“can feel the zigzag of the designs” (Tina) by tracing fabrics under their fingertips. To better detect patterns, expert blind weavers, Amy and Erin, inspected the fabric as it formed on the loom while weaving. Erin said,
“Diamonds, ovals, diagonals — everything stands out when it’s under tension,” whereas the shapes get
“harder to see” (Amy) once the woven fabric is taken out of the loom because the lack of tension makes the yarns
“blend together.” Perceiving shapes by touch becomes even more difficult when yarns have fewer textures, patterns have intricate details, and when weavers have reduced dexterity or tactile perception ability due to other health conditions. In such cases, sighted instructors provided embodied guidance by drawing the pattern on blind weavers’ arms or guiding their fingertips along the pattern while describing its visual-spatial properties. Amy explained:
“If something wasn’t quite cemented in our head… If it’s a more complex sample, she (sighted instructor) will take a fingertip and use it as you’d [use] a pencil. And she’ll say, ‘See how this diamond connects, see how this goes up and then down.’”Even when the textures in a fabric were tactually discernible, blind weavers sometimes found it difficult to gather a holistic picture of composite patterns that comprised smaller shapes spatially dispersed on the fabric (Figure
3, right). Since the emergent shapes connected with each other in multi-faceted ways, blind and sighted weavers constructed their own interpretations for the shapes, which did not always align (Figure
3, left). To develop a detailed understanding of composite patterns, Amy and Erin examined the fabric repeatedly as it formed on the loom thread-by-thread, incrementally unfolding the patterns. Blind weavers shared their excitement when experiencing a pattern for the first time this way. Erin exclaimed,
“Sometimes I’m just totally mystified and amazed! It’s so wonderful to see a design I never even thought about pop up.” While there is a sense of joy and surprise in discovering new shapes serendipitously, having a precise understanding of the end product
before starting to weave on a loom is important to ensure that the resultant pattern aligns with what the weaver intended to create in the first place, which we detail next.
5.3 Learning to Visualize Patterns Before Weaving
To design a weaving draft, weavers need to understand the underlying mechanisms of the loom and the weaving algorithm, specifically how the threading of warp yarns, tying of shafts and treadles, and the order of pressing treadles alter the resultant patterns. Sighted weavers can easily perceive this interrelationship on graphical draft designing applications, which display the output pattern immediately when changes are made to the input sequences. Since these applications are inaccessible, expert blind weavers “visualized in [their] heads” how a pattern would come out if they modified the threading, tie-up, and treadling in certain ways. Amy explained, “I figure out—if I did this threading [sequence], it would make a diagonal to the right. If I did this, it would make a diagonal to the left. If I did this, it would make a square block...” Thus, Amy and Erin engaged in a form of algorithmic thinking as they developed a mental imagery for resultant patterns based on numerical sequences. They referred to this process of formulating new patterns as “drawing...a 3D picture” (Erin) or solving “a jigsaw puzzle–you just put [shapes] together and make them fit" (Amy). Mastering this ‘visualization’ technique, however, required years of practice and honing their understanding of the weaving algorithm. These weavers also took inspiration from geometric “design models” such as the Fibonacci series and repeated smaller shapes in the order of 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, etc., to maintain aesthetics and integrity of their woven pieces. Building on established design concepts this way made the process of conceptualizing new patterns “much less stressful for me,” said Erin. They also frequently collaborated with each other to brainstorm unique design ideas. “We love working together because we grasp concepts very similarly. And that really helps a lot,” explained Amy.
Still, it took them a long time to mentally calculate how a pattern would turn out, especially when they intended to design intricate, non-uniform patterns where the same shape did not repeat
“all the way across” on the fabric (e.g., overshot in Figure
3, right). In such cases, they relied on trial and error, for example by weaving small samples on a loom while iteratively modifying sequences, to figure out what combination of threading, treadling, and tie-up would lead to their desired outcome. Alternatively, they wrote down numerical sequences in text documents using Microsoft Word and shared those documents with their sighted teacher Cora who then ran the sequences on a draft designing software to check for mistakes. Thus, inaccessible design tools put blind weavers at a disadvantage, where at best, they must use trial and error on the loom or rely on sighted collaborators to digitize patterns, or at worst, not participate in pattern designing at all.
5.4 Exploring Patterns through Tactile Representations
To address the complexities associated with conceptualizing fabric patterns, our participants adopted various techniques to facilitate blind weavers’ tactile perception of patterns and formulation of weaving drafts. Some instructors thought that
“macro samples” (Figure
4, left) made of rough yarns, ropes, or sandpapers could make it easier for blind weavers to
“identify when threads are going over versus under” (Sara). Cora, however, noted this technique as
“exceedingly tedious to do” for replicating complex patterns. Instead, she along with expert blind weavers Amy and Erin devised other adaptive solutions by repurposing everyday objects and building new bespoke tools. For instance, they reappropriated blind-friendly scrabble boards with raised gridlines and arranged scrabble pieces in different sequences to find the one that they liked the most (Figure
4, right). Erin also experimented with other strategies such as drawing raised lines on cellophane paper over rubber board or arranging square-head tacks on poster boards with small sticks of toothpicks glued on the tacks. These customized techniques still required significant cognitive effort for calculating drawdowns manually from numerical sequences. Amy and Erin, instead, wanted to use tools that would allow them to readily experiment with and compare different patterns as well as easily recreate existing drafts. Erin said,
“I don’t want to have to create (calculate) everything I do. I like something my friend made—I just want to know how to recreate it.” They envisioned that preparing
“enlarged” and
“raised” copies of drawdowns with instructor Cora could potentially help them understand and build on pre-designed patterns.
5.5 Summary
Overall, our formative work illustrates three key insights for building accessible pattern drafting tools. First, blind weavers need accessible tools that can automatically generate output drawdowns from input threading, treadling, and tie-up sequences to allow for rapid exploration without having to expend undue cognitive effort and time for manually calculating patterns. Second, tangible materials that make individual warp-weft interlacements tactually more prominent and easily manipulable can help blind weavers perceive and alter intricate details of patterns that might otherwise be difficult to do on woven fabrics. Third, pattern design tools that combine multiple modalities and art forms seem promising for enhancing creative expression among blind weavers.