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WO2017071198A1 - 一种针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法 - Google Patents

一种针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017071198A1
WO2017071198A1 PCT/CN2016/083509 CN2016083509W WO2017071198A1 WO 2017071198 A1 WO2017071198 A1 WO 2017071198A1 CN 2016083509 W CN2016083509 W CN 2016083509W WO 2017071198 A1 WO2017071198 A1 WO 2017071198A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fiber
hemp
cotton
polypropylene
preparing
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PCT/CN2016/083509
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
严以登
周卫东
刘松
陈玉平
倪振华
Original Assignee
江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司
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Publication of WO2017071198A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017071198A1/zh

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/14—Wool

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a preparation method of a fabric, and the specific design relates to a preparation method of a knitted wool-like warm fabric, belonging to the technical field of textile and functional textile.
  • the grey fabric is dyed first, and then processed by various complicated finishing processes such as brushing, combing, shearing, and shaking.
  • the fabric is roughed on the front, the fluff is fluffy and dense, and it is not easy to shed and pilling.
  • the fluff is short, the texture of the tissue is clear, and the fluffy elasticity is excellent.
  • the composition of pearl velvet is 100% polyester; it is characterized by soft handfeel, fine texture and green environmental protection. It is specially processed to achieve special functions such as moisture-proof and warmth, mainly used for nightgown, baby products, children's wear, clothing lining, shoes and hats. Toys, interior accessories, craft products, home accessories and other materials.
  • Non-falling velvet is a type of warp-knitted velvet fabric.
  • This pile fabric is similar to the velvet fabric.
  • the fabric has excellent gloss, elasticity and soft handfeel. It is a superior fabric for making high fashion, tight clothing and decorative items.
  • the raw materials used in the above fabrics and garments are cotton, wool, chemical fiber filaments, etc.
  • the weaving process is mainly for knitting, or by pulling, cutting or raising, or for woven fabrics and warm linings.
  • the product has good warmth and comfort, but generally does not have health care functions.
  • the demand for warm fabrics in different countries varies greatly depending on the climate of each country. The more cold the place, the greater the demand. In extremely cold places, people need to use heavy fur clothing to keep out the cold; in special environments, such as in space, people need to wear air-conditioned space suits, which need to be supported by extremely difficult thermal insulation fabrics. Therefore, there is an urgent need for a new solution to solve this technical problem.
  • the present invention discloses a method for preparing a knitted wool-like warm fabric, wherein the knitted wool-like warm fabric is made of hemp/cotton/polypropylene blended yarn and polyolefin elastic fiber, namely, the elastic stretch yarn. It is processed by knit weaving, dyeing, carbon grinding, softening, etc. Hemp is selected to obtain the antibacterial health and UV resistance of the product.
  • the cotton fiber has good hygroscopicity and spinnability.
  • the polypropylene is difficult to conduct heat and keep warm.
  • the mixing of the three fibers can make the product warm, moisture absorbing and antibacterial.
  • the UV function combined with the weaving of polyolefin elastic fibers, gives the product excellent elasticity and shape retention.
  • the product is soft and delicate, breathable and comfortable, and has strong warmth. It is suitable for high-grade warm outerwear or skirt. It is a superior antibacterial health care warm fabric, which meets people's requirements for warmth, function, comfort and environmental protection of warm fabrics. Market development prospects.
  • the technical solution of the present invention is as follows, a method for preparing a knitted wool-like warm fabric, characterized in that the method comprises the following steps: 1) raw material matching; 2) spinning process; 3) weaving process; ) Printing and dyeing and finishing.
  • the method for preparing a knitted wool-like warm fabric according to claim 1, wherein the raw material selection in the step 1) is as follows: the hemp original fiber is selected, and the length is 55 mm.
  • the hemp fiber with a fineness of 2500Nm has a super long fiber ratio of 9.13%, a hard strip rate of 10.5%, a hemp particle of 35 grains/g, a moisture regain of 9.02%, a polypropylene fiber of 1.5D ⁇ 38mm, and a long-staple cotton.
  • the spinning process is as follows:
  • Hemp fibrils the specific process is, clear flowers - carding - pre-adhesion
  • Polypropylene fiber the specific process is clearing--carding--pre-adhesive
  • the three fiber treatment processes are as follows, the first side draws - two - end - roving - spun yarn.
  • the spinning process is specifically as follows: the clearing is a process of opening the cotton, and the compacted cotton is opened, removed, and properly knitted to form a lap.
  • the carding process is to further comb the cotton lap to form a sliver, that is, a raw strip; the pre-striping is to combine a plurality of raw strips and draw a tampon, that is, a pre-adhesive strip;
  • the plurality of pre-strips are combined to form a roll for feeding into the combing machine;
  • the combing is to comb the strips to remove a large amount of short piles, and to synthesize a combed strip;
  • the first side is parallel, the second and the last
  • the plurality of fibers are mixed and combined to form a tampon which is used for supplying the roving process; the roving is to draw and knead the cooked strip into a finer roving; the spun yarn is The roving strip is drawn and
  • the spinning process is specifically as follows: before the spinning, the hemp virgin fiber needs to be pretreated to improve the spinnability, and the pretreatment method is to add an antistatic softening oil agent.
  • the antistatic softening agent is added at a ratio of 5% of the total weight, and The water is evenly mixed at 3:7 and sprayed on the hemp fibrils. It is placed in the workshop for 4 days. It needs to be cut several times during storage to make the moisture regain of hemp fibrils above 15%. The moisture regain of polypropylene fibers is almost zero. Need to add about 2% antistatic agent.
  • Hanma original fiber contains more granules, is rigid and brittle, has no natural curl, and has poor fiber cohesion and length uniformity. It needs to be pretreated before spinning. Hemp fiber can be treated after health treatment. Although the spinning property has been improved, it cannot be rolled into strips separately. It needs to be mixed into a roll with a long-staple cotton in a clearing process at a mass ratio of 1:1. After combing with a carding machine, it is mixed with the combed long-staple cotton.
  • the polypropylene and the polypropylene pre-strip are mixed into three mature strips, and then woven into roving and spinning process to make 25% of hemp fiber, 35% of combed cotton, 40% of combed cotton, and 40% of polypropylene fiber. Kex (28 inches) knitting yarn.
  • Hanma original fiber and a small amount of long-staple cotton are mixed in the opening process, using the process of “more loose, less, less and less”, which reduces the speed of the beater and prevents excessive fiber damage; the carding process adopts “heavy quantitative, low speed”
  • the process of “less cotton” increases the speed ratio of cylinder to thorn roller to strengthen the ability of the fiber to transfer from the thorn roller to the cylinder, reduce the loss of strength and length loss caused by excessive combing of the fiber, and ensure the fiber can be Spinning; enlarge the inlet gauge of the small leak bottom, reduce the cotton drop; and then make a certain amount of pre-adhesion after pre-combination.
  • 137A Xinjiang long-staple front spinning carding process adopts multi-comb and less hitting process to reduce the speed of hitting and reduce fiber damage; reduce the gauge and strengthen the combing to remove impurities; ensure a certain rate of cotton removal (16%), remove short Cashmere and neps.
  • the polypropylene fibers are separately formed into strips, which are pre-adhered by clearing and carding. Hanma pre-adhesive, long-staple cotton combed strips, polypropylene pre-strips are mixed in three proportions according to the design ratio.
  • the mixing process adopts the process of “medium quantitative, large gauge, reasonable tension drafting, full integration, anti-wrap and anti-blocking”.
  • the roving adopts the process of “heavy pressure, large gauge, low speed, medium quantitative, small tension”.
  • the roving moisture regain rate is 6.8%; the fine spinning drafting distance is 19 ⁇ 22mm, the workshop temperature is 30°C, and the relative humidity is 65%.
  • the skin roller is treated with iodine to prevent the skin roller from sticking, and the appropriate spacer block and the wire ring are selected. Reduce the phenomenon of spit and the occurrence of broken ends; the winding adopts the process of “low speed, quality assurance, good joints, good forming”, and waxing, reducing neps, appending hairiness, reducing breakage, ensuring yarn quality Stable.
  • the weaving process is as follows: weaving process flow: raw materials entering the factory--inspection--steaming, wetting--winding---machine-weaving-fabric inspection--into the warehouse.
  • the printing and finishing process is specifically as follows: pretreatment, dyeing and finishing.
  • the pretreatment process is specifically as follows:
  • Process flow adding multi-effect bleaching agent, sodium carbonate, softener in the bath - running 10min - heating up to 60 ° C - hydrogen peroxide - heating to 110 ° C - holding 60 min - cooling to 70 ° C - overflow Flow rinsing for 5 min - draining - hot washing temperature 90 ° C, time 15 min - washing for 10 min;
  • the dyeing process is as follows: process prescription: activated carbon 0.083%, active red 0.01%, Yuanming powder 35g / L, sodium carbonate 15g / L, leveling agent 2g / L, chelating agent SX 1g/L, bath ratio 1:15.
  • the post-dye treatment process prescription :
  • the advantages of the present invention are as follows: 1) The knitted wool-like warm fabric of the hemp/wool/polypropylene blended yarn and the polypropylene elastic fiber developed by the technical scheme are woven, dyed and finished by the knitted double-sided circular knitting machine.
  • hemp is known as the "King of Ma”
  • hemp native fiber is a natural bast fiber made by special high-tech degumming process.
  • Dimensions which have the following characteristics: 1.
  • Antibacterial health care the hemp original fiber is a hollow structure, which contains a large number of gaps and holes, and the holes cross each other. The microporous structure can adsorb a large amount of oxygen, making it difficult for anaerobic bacteria to survive.
  • hemp fiber contains a variety of metal elements, phenolic substances and their derivatives, organic acids and inorganic salts, can destroy the structure of the bacteria; 2. UV-resistant, hemp fiber cross-section is irregular triangle, Polygon or ellipse, etc., the cavity and shape are different, the molecular structure is polygonal, loose, and spiral, so hemp fiber has good dissipative effect on sound waves and light waves, no special finishing can block strong ultraviolet light. Radiation; 3. Moisture wicking, hemp fiber longitudinally distributed with many vertical lines and small holes, forming excellent capillary effect, so wicking moisture absorption; 4.
  • Anti-static, hemp fiber exposed to air generally contains water The rate is around 12%, but the hand feels not wet, so it can easily avoid the static electricity and the discharge and pilling caused by friction.
  • the hemp bast contains high pectin and lignin, and the degumming process is very important. Its scale development.
  • the General Post-Military Research Institute has successfully developed mechanical degumming soft linen equipment, flashing processing equipment, biological degumming, and high temperature cooking equipment. Liquid ammonia finishing equipment and fiber grading and carding equipment and related technologies, Youngor Group Co., Ltd. also overcome the technical problems of ring spinning, warping, sizing and weaving, and provide technical support for the industrial production of hemp fiber.
  • Polypropylene is a fiber obtained by polymerization and melt spinning of propylene as a raw material.
  • the physical properties are as follows: 1. Morphology, the longitudinal plane of polypropylene is flat and smooth, and the cross section is circular. 2. Density, the biggest advantage of polypropylene is light texture, its density is only 0.91g/cm3, which is the lightest density among common chemical fibers, so the same weight of polypropylene can obtain higher coverage than other fibers. 3. Strong tensile polypropylene has high strength, large elongation, high initial modulus, and elastic Excellent in properties, so polypropylene has good abrasion resistance.
  • polypropylene is basically equal to dry strength, so it is an ideal material for making fishing nets and cables; 4. Hygroscopicity and dyeing properties are light and warm; almost no moisture absorption, but wicking ability is strong, moisture absorption and perspiration are obvious Polypropylene has a low hygroscopicity, and the moisture regain under normal atmospheric conditions is close to zero. However, it has a wicking action that transfers water vapor through the capillary in the fabric, but does not itself absorb any absorption. The dyeability of polypropylene is poor, the chromatogram is not complete, but the method of coloring the original liquid can be used to make up for the deficiency; 5.
  • the acid-resistant and alkali-resistant polypropylene has good chemical resistance, except for concentrated nitric acid, concentrated caustic soda, polypropylene to acid. Good resistance to alkali and therefore suitable for use as filter materials and packaging materials; 6.
  • Light-resistant polypropylene has poor light resistance, poor thermal stability, easy aging, and is not resistant to ironing. However, it is possible to improve the anti-aging property by adding an anti-aging agent at the time of spinning.
  • polypropylene has good electrical insulation, but it is easy to generate static electricity during processing. Because the thermal conductivity of polypropylene is small, the thermal insulation is good; 7.
  • polypropylene elastic yarn The strength of high-strength polypropylene elastic yarn is second only to nylon, but the price is only 1/3 of nylon; the fabric is stable in size, wear-resistant and elastic, chemical stability it is good. However, it has poor thermal stability, is not resistant to the sun, and is prone to aging and brittleness. For this reason, an anti-aging agent is often added to the polypropylene.
  • Polyolefin elastic fiber is a new type of elastic fiber. Its usage is similar to that of spandex, but it has very unique properties: 1. Chemical stability, strong acid resistance, strong alkali, chlorine bleaching, ultraviolet irradiation, etc. 2. Low setting temperature, 120° -130° stereotype can obtain stable setting effect; 3.
  • Finished product size is stable: the horizontal and vertical shrinkage rate of knitted fabric can be controlled within 1-2%; 4.
  • the fabric elasticity is comfortable and stable, and the wearing experience is excellent; the polypropylene fiber has texture Light, high warmth rate, and no splashing when burning, will not cause burns to the wearer, etc., there are a wide range of application needs in the winter thermal underwear market.
  • polypropylene has a low melting point and begins to melt at around 130 degrees, while the spandex has a setting temperature of about 170-180 degrees. Therefore, there is no polypropylene fabric
  • the addition of spandex to the process has caused great limitations on the wearing properties of polypropylene fabrics, making polypropylene thermal underwear a long-standing application.
  • Polyolefin elastic fiber can achieve good setting effect at 120 degrees, combined with polypropylene, can improve the complete solution for thermal underwear.
  • Polypropylene + polyolefin elastic thermal fabric will be a new and unique product on the market, with broad market prospects, and can also bring rich profits to the company.
  • Polypropylene fabric product advantages 1. Burning without splashing, will not cause burns to the wearer; 2. The same weight, polypropylene fabrics have the highest warmth rate; 3. The same warmth rate, polypropylene fabric weight is the lowest; 4. Low shrinkage rate: The horizontal and vertical shrinkage rate is within 1-2%; 5.
  • the garment cost is low: the same weight, the polypropylene fabric area is the largest; 2)
  • the technical scheme adopts the dyeing process of hemp/cotton/polypropylene blended yarn and sturdy silk knitted fabric Technology, choose hemp/cotton/polypropylene blended yarn and Shulei silk knitted fabric finishing technology, including sanding, softness, finished product shaping and other technologies, choose reasonable pre-type, bleaching, dyeing and dyeing process to ensure At the same time, the dyeing rate reduces the strong loss;
  • the knitted wool-like warm fabric developed by the method has soft and full hand feeling, strong velvet feeling, good warmth retention, antibacterial deodorization, adsorption odor, anti-ultraviolet radiation, moisture absorption and quick drying.
  • the function is a high-grade, functional and healthy environmental protection and warm fabric. It is suitable for middle and high-grade warm outerwear or skirts. It is deeply loved by consumers and has a broad market prospect.
  • a method for preparing a knitted wool-like warm fabric comprising the steps of:
  • Hanma virgin fiber is made of hemp fiber with a length of 55mm and a fineness of about 2500Nm.
  • the ultra-long fiber ratio is 9.13%, the hard strip rate is 10.5%, the granule is 35/g, and the moisture regain is 9.02%.
  • 1.5D ⁇ 38mm; long-staple cotton is made of 137A Xinjiang long-staple cotton.
  • the above three kinds of fibers are mixed and weaved with Hanma 25/JC35/Polypropylene 40 21tex (28S) knitting yarn.
  • the elastic yarn added during weaving is 75D polypropylene elastic. Fiber; Hanma native fiber is coarse and hard, the rate of hard strip and super long fiber is high, the spinnability is poor, and the blending ratio should not be too high.
  • the hemp fiber is selected to make the product obtain certain antibacterial and anti-ultraviolet functions.
  • the polypropylene fiber has small thermal conductivity and good thermal insulation. It is suitable for use as a warm fabric.
  • the cotton fiber has good moisture absorption, comfortable and natural, and can be placed well. Make up for the defects of poor spinnability of hemp fiber.
  • Spinning process the spinning process is as follows: (1) According to the mass ratio, hemp fibrils: long-staple cotton 1:1: clear flowers--carding--pre-adhesive; (2) long-staple cotton : Qinghua--carding--pre-adhesive-------- combing; (3) polypropylene fiber: clear flower--carding--pre-striping; the above three fiber treatment processes are as follows, head The road is tied - two and - the end - roving - spun yarn.
  • Hanma original fiber and a small amount of long-staple cotton are mixed in the opening process, using the process of “more loose, less, less and less”, which reduces the speed of the beater and prevents excessive fiber damage; the carding process adopts “heavy quantitative, low speed”
  • the process of “less cotton” increases the speed ratio of cylinder to thorn roller to strengthen the ability of the fiber to transfer from the thorn roller to the cylinder, reduce the loss of strength and length loss caused by excessive combing of the fiber, and ensure the fiber can be Spinning; enlarge the inlet gauge of the small leak bottom, reduce the cotton drop; and then make a certain amount of pre-adhesion after pre-combination.
  • 137A Xinjiang long-wool front spinning carding machine adopts the process of multi-comb and less hitting, which reduces the speed of hitting and reduces fiber damage; Distance, strengthen the carding to remove impurities; ensure a certain rate of cotton removal (16%), remove the short pile and neps.
  • the polypropylene fibers are separately formed into strips, which are pre-adhered by clearing and carding. Hanma pre-adhesive, long-staple cotton combed strips, polypropylene pre-strips are mixed in three proportions according to the design ratio.
  • the mixing process adopts the process of “medium quantitative, large gauge, reasonable tension drafting, full integration, anti-wrap and anti-blocking”.
  • the roving adopts the process of “heavy pressure, large gauge, low speed, medium quantitative, small tension”.
  • the roving moisture regain rate is 6.8%; the fine spinning drafting distance is 19 ⁇ 22mm, the workshop temperature is 30°C, and the relative humidity is 65%.
  • the winding adopts "low speed, quality assurance, good joint, good shape” Process, and waxing, reduce neps, append hairiness, reduce breakage, and ensure the stability of yarn quality.
  • the flowering process the wet design of the roll design is 400g/m, the needle punching speed is 560r/min, the comprehensive hitting speed is 720r/min, the design length is 30m, and the clearing volume is 13.5kg.
  • Carding process cylinder-cover spacing 9 ⁇ 8 ⁇ 8 ⁇ 8 ⁇ 9 ⁇ ; stripping speed 70m/min; raw strip quantitative 32g/5m, pre-bending process: 6 combined roots, moisture regain 7.5%, wet weight 28g/5m.
  • Open cleaning process A076E comprehensive beater speed 780r/min, 106 beater speed 480r/min, quantitative 350g/m, lap weight: 15kg.
  • Carding process spacing between cylinder and cover: 7*6*6*6*7 ⁇ , cylinder speed: 345r/min, licking speed: 645r/min, delivery speed: 60m/min, carding : 16g/5m.
  • Pre-adhesion the number of combined roots: 5, resurgence: 7%, wet weight: 21.5g/5m.
  • Strip and roll process number of combined roots: 28; strip volume: 8 ⁇ 12mm; speed: 105m/min; moisture regain: 7%; wet weight 62g/m.
  • Combing process speed: 255 Clamp times / minute, moisture regain: 6.8%, cotton removal rate: 16%, wet weight quantitative: 17g/5m, delivery speed: 80m / min.
  • Open cleaning process A076E comprehensive beater speed 750r/min, 106 beater speed 450r/min, quantitative 300g/m, lap weight: 9.5kg.
  • Carding process spacing between cylinder and cover: 7*6*6*6*7 ⁇ , speed of cylinder: 360r/min, speed of licking roller: 690r/min, delivery speed: 60m/min, combing : 20g/5m.
  • Pre-adhesion number of combined: 8, quantitative: 14g/5m.
  • the roving dry weight is 4.8g/10m
  • the twist is 3.94 ⁇ /10cm
  • the draw ratio in the back zone is 1.28 times
  • the total draw ratio is 7.75 times
  • the spindle speed is 850r/min.
  • the yarn twist is 76 ⁇ /10cm, the steel collar PG1 4254, the wire ring udr6/0, 3.0 pressure bar spacer block, the roller center distance is 19 ⁇ 22; the front yarn of the spinning yarn is 240 rpm, and the total draft is 22.8.
  • Hanma native fiber contains more granules, is rigid and brittle, has no natural curl, and has poor fiber cohesion and length uniformity. It needs to be pretreated before spinning to improve its spinnability.
  • Pretreatment that is, processing the hemp original fiber before spinning, the specific method is to add antistatic softening oil agent, the antistatic softening oil agent addition ratio is 5% of the total weight, and the water is uniformly mixed with 3:7 and sprayed to the Han On the hemp fiber, put it in the workshop for 4 days, and need to turn it over several times during storage, so that the moisture regain of hemp fibrils is above 15%.
  • the moisture regain of polypropylene fiber is almost zero, and about 2% antistatic agent needs to be added.
  • the spinnability is improved, and it cannot be rolled into a strip separately. It needs to be mixed with a small amount of long-staple cotton in the opening process, and then combed with a carding machine and combed with a long pile.
  • the cotton is mixed into strips, pre-synthesized and pre-striped with polypropylene to form a mature strip through three mixing, and then spun into a hemp 25/JC35/polypropylene 4021tex (28S) blended yarn through a roving and spinning process.
  • Hanma original fiber and a small amount of long-staple cotton are mixed in the opening process, using the process of “more loose, less, less and less”, which reduces the speed of the beater and prevents excessive fiber damage; the carding process adopts “heavy quantitative, low speed”
  • the process of “less cotton” increases the speed ratio of cylinder to thorn roller to strengthen the ability of the fiber to transfer from the thorn roller to the cylinder, reduce the loss of strength and length loss caused by excessive combing of the fiber, and ensure the fiber can be Spinning; enlarge the inlet gauge of the small leak bottom, reduce the cotton drop; and then make a certain amount of pre-adhesion after pre-combination.
  • 137A Xinjiang long-staple front spinning carding process adopts multi-comb and less hitting process to reduce the speed of hitting and reduce fiber damage; reduce the gauge and strengthen the combing to remove impurities; ensure a certain rate of cotton removal (16%), remove short Cashmere and neps.
  • the polypropylene fibers are separately formed into strips, which are pre-adhered by clearing and carding. Hanma pre-adhesive, long-staple cotton combed strips, polypropylene pre-strips are mixed in a three-way design ratio article.
  • the mixing process adopts the process of “medium quantitative, large gauge, reasonable tension drafting, full integration, anti-wrap and anti-blocking”.
  • the roving adopts the process of “heavy pressure, large gauge, low speed, medium quantitative, small tension”.
  • the roving moisture regain rate is 6.8%; the fine spinning drafting distance is 19 ⁇ 22mm, the workshop temperature is 30°C, and the relative humidity is 65%.
  • the winding adopts "low speed, quality assurance, good joint, good shape” Process, and waxing, reduce neps, append hairiness, reduce breakage, and ensure the stability of yarn quality.
  • Fabric structure double rib (cotton cloth).
  • Weaving machine technology 34 inches, 24 needles, double-sided circular machine;
  • Yarn support hemp 25/JC35/polypropylene 40 28S+75D shrapnel;
  • Fabric requirements 1, fabric requirements to achieve a smooth surface, no horizontal bars, no vertical bars, cloth surface points within the internal control; 2, the fabric in the fabric to do three nothing. Namely: no broken wire, no running wire, no jumping wire; 3, the fabric should be flexible, soft to the touch, strong velvet.
  • the fabric should be flexible, soft to the touch, strong velvet.
  • the steaming and wetting are required to reduce the modulus of the hemp fibril and enhance the flexibility and strength of the yarn.
  • we use a small speed adjust the position of the needle mouth, the distance between the upper and lower needles, the depth of the needle, the yarn tension, the length of the elastic wire and the tension of the cloth, and solve the yarn breakage.
  • the problem of holes in the cloth surface is to solve the problem of running silk and jumping silk to ensure the quality of the cloth.
  • One is to reduce the fly ash from the yarn during the weaving process of the hemp original staple fiber, to prevent it from clogging the knitting needle and affect the weaving; /
  • the speed of water dispersion in the cotton/polypropylene blended yarn makes the modulus of the hemp primary fiber in the yarn suitable for the weaving requirements, ensuring the normal production.
  • Printing and dyeing and finishing including pre-treatment, dyeing and finishing, dyeing using medium temperature dyeing, lower speed.
  • the process mainly includes pre-treatment, dyeing and finishing processes, specifically scouring, oxygen bleaching, dyeing, water washing, dehydration, loose drying, soft setting, carbon sanding, tenter setting and pre-shrinking.
  • the dyeing is moderately temperature-sensitive and has a lower speed.
  • the process mainly includes pre-treatment, dyeing and finishing processes, specifically scouring, oxygen bleaching, dyeing, water washing, dehydration, loose drying, soft setting, carbon sanding, tenter setting and pre-shrinking.
  • the composition of the knitted fabric is cellulose fiber, and the polypropylene fiber is not resistant to high temperature
  • the one-bath dyeing method of the medium-temperature active dye is used, and the amount of the Yuanming powder is appropriately increased during the dyeing process, thereby improving the dyeing rate of the knitted fabric.
  • cellulase treatment and soft finishing it can reduce the itching of linen fabric and enhance the comfort performance; use carbon sanding finishing, on the fabric table
  • the surface forms a very short and soft fluff, which gives the fabric a certain sense of skin, drape, flesh, and enhances the velvety, softness and warmth of the fabric.
  • the styling makes the fabric dimensionally stable and has the smallest shrinkage due to the low melting point of the polypropylene.
  • the setting temperature should be strictly controlled to prevent the polypropylene from melting.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

一种针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，所述方法包括以下步骤：1）原料选配；2）纺纱工艺；3）织造工艺；4）印染及后整理。该针织仿毛保暖面料选用汉麻/棉/丙纶混纺纱及聚烯烃弹性纤维即舒弹丝为原料，经针织织造、染色、碳磨毛、柔软等后整理加工而成。选用汉麻是为了获得产品的抗菌保健、抗紫外线功能，棉纤维吸湿性、可纺性好，丙纶难导热、保暖性好，三种纤维的混合能使产品兼具保暖、吸湿透气、抗菌抗紫外功能，加上聚烯烃弹性纤维的织入，使产品具有很好的弹性和保形性。

Description

一种针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法 技术领域
本发明涉及一种面料的制备方法，具体设计涉及一种针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，属于纺织、功能性纺织技术领域。
背景技术
随着冬季的到来，人们对保暖服装产品的需求激增。市场上的保暖服装大部分还是传统产品，如棉毛衫、羊毛衫、羽绒服等，保暖面料有珊瑚绒、摇粒绒、珍珠绒、不倒绒等。珊瑚绒是一种新型面料，由于纤维间密度较高，呈珊瑚状，覆盖性好，犹如活珊瑚般轻软的体态，色彩斑斓，故称之为珊瑚绒。与其它纺织品相比，其优点特别明显，包括手感柔软，细腻，不掉毛，易染色等。摇粒绒是小元宝针织结构，在大圆机上编织而成。织成后坯布先经染色，再经拉毛、梳毛、剪毛、摇粒等多种复杂后整理工艺加工处理，面料正面拉毛，摇粒蓬松密集而又不易掉毛、起球，反面拉毛疏稀匀称，绒毛短少，组织纹理清晰、蓬松弹性特好。珍珠绒成分为100％涤纶；以手感柔软，质地细腻，绿色环保等为特点，通过特殊加工处理达到防潮、保暖等特殊功能，主要用于睡袍、婴儿制品、童装、服装内里、鞋帽、玩具、车内饰品、工艺制品、家居饰品等方面的用料。不倒绒是经编弹力丝绒的一种类型，这种绒毛织物类似立绒织物，织物光泽极好，富有弹性，手感柔软，是制作高级时装、紧身服装和装饰用品的上乘面料。上述面料、服装所用原料为棉、毛、化纤长丝等，织造工艺主要为针织、或再经拉毛、割毛或起绒等，或为梭织面料加保暖衬料制成，产 品保暖性、舒适性都较好，但一般都不具有保健功能。各国对保暖面料服装的需求因各国的气候不同而有较大的差异，越是寒冷的地方需求越大。在极端寒冷的地方，人们需要用厚重的毛皮类服装御寒；在特别的环境中，比如在太空，人们就要穿空调太空服了，这些都需要极好的难导热的保暖面料进行支撑。因此，迫切的需要一种新的方案解决该技术问题。
发明内容
为了解决上述存在的问题，本发明公开了一种针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，该针织仿毛保暖面料选用汉麻/棉/丙纶混纺纱及聚烯烃弹性纤维即舒弹丝为原料，经针织织造、染色、碳磨毛、柔软等后整理加工而成。选用汉麻是为了获得产品的抗菌保健、抗紫外线功能，棉纤维吸湿性、可纺性好，丙纶难导热、保暖性好，三种纤维的混合能使产品兼具保暖、吸湿透气、抗菌抗紫外功能，加上聚烯烃弹性纤维的织入，使产品具有很好的弹性和保形性。该产品柔软细腻，透气舒爽，保暖性强，适合做高档保暖外衣或裙装，是一款上乘的抗菌保健保暖面料，满足人们对保暖面料保暖、功能、舒适、环保的要求，具有广阔的市场发展前景。
为了实现上述目的，本发明的技术方案如下，针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述方法包括以下步骤：1)原料选配；2)纺纱工艺；3)织造工艺；4)印染及后整理。
根据权利要求1所述的针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述步骤1)中原料选配具体如下：选用汉麻原生纤维，长度55mm、 细度2500Nm的汉麻纤维，其超长纤维率为9.13％，硬条率为10.5％，麻粒为35粒/g,回潮率为9.02％；丙纶纤维选用1.5D×38mm；长绒棉选用137A新疆长绒棉，以上三种纤维混合纺制“汉麻纤维25％，长绒棉即精梳棉35％，丙纶纤维40％，21特克斯(28英支)针织纱”，织造时添加舒弹丝，具体为75D聚丙烯弹力纤维。
作为本发明的一种改进，所述纺纱工艺具体如下：
(1)汉麻原纤，具体工艺为，清花--梳棉--预并条；
(2)长绒棉，具体工艺为，清花--梳棉--预并条--条并卷---精梳；
(3)丙纶纤维:具体工艺为清花--梳棉--预并条；
三种纤维处理工艺如下，头道并条--二并--末并--粗纱--细纱。
作为本发明的一种改进，所述纺纱工艺具体如下：所述清花就是开清棉工序，是将压紧的棉花开松、除杂，适当梳理后制成棉卷。梳棉工序是将棉卷进一步梳理除杂后形成棉条即生条；预并条是将多根生条并合经牵伸后并合成一根棉条即预并条；条并卷是将预并条多根并合形成条卷，以便喂入精梳机；精梳是将条卷进行梳理去除大量短绒，且并合成一根精梳条；头道并条、二并、末并是将多种纤维进行混合，并经多次并合牵伸后制成可供给粗纱工序所用的棉条即熟条；粗纱是将熟条牵伸加捻成更细的粗纱条；细纱是将粗纱条牵伸加捻成所设计的成品纱。
作为本发明的一种改进，所述纺纱工艺具体如下：在进行纺纱之前，需要对汉麻原生纤维进行预处理，以提高其可纺性，预处理方法是添加抗静电软化油剂，抗静电软化油剂添加比为总重量的5％，与 水按3：7均匀混合后喷洒到汉麻原纤上，放于车间静置4天，存放期间需翻理数次，使汉麻原纤的回潮率在15％以上；丙纶纤维回潮率几乎为零，需加2％左右抗静电剂。
汉麻原生纤维含麻粒较多，刚性大且比较脆硬，无天然卷曲，纤维抱合力及长度整齐度差，在进行纺纱之前需要对其预处理，汉麻纤维经养生处理后，可纺性虽有所提高，还不能单独成卷成条，需按1:1质量比与长绒棉在开清工序混合成卷，经梳棉机梳理后再与精梳长绒棉混合成条，预并后与丙纶预并条通过三道混合制成熟条，再经粗纱、细纱工序纺制成“汉麻纤维25％，长绒棉即精梳棉35％，丙纶纤维40％，21特克斯(28英支)针织纱”。
汉麻原生纤维和少量长绒棉在开清工序混合，采用“多松少打、多收少落”的工艺，降低打手的速度，防止纤维过度损伤；梳棉工序采用“重定量、低速度、少落棉”工艺，增大锡林与刺辊线速比，以加强纤维由刺辊向锡林转移的能力，降低对纤维因过度梳理而导致的强力损失和长度损失，保证纤维的可纺性；放大小漏底的进口隔距，减少落棉；再经预并后制成定量一定的预并条。137A新疆长绒前纺清梳棉采用多梳少打的工艺，降低打手速度，减少纤维损伤；减小隔距、加强分梳以去除杂质；保证一定的落棉率(16％)，去除短绒和棉结。丙纶纤维单独成条，经过清花、梳棉后制成预并条。汉麻预并条、长绒棉精梳条、丙纶预并条按设计比例三道混并制成熟条。混并工序采用“中定量、大隔距、合理张力牵伸，充分并合，防缠防堵”的工艺。粗纱采用“重加压，大隔距，低速度，中定量，小张力”的工艺， 粗纱回潮率6.8％；细纺牵伸隔距为19×22mm,车间温度30℃，相对湿度65％，用碘酒处理皮辊，防止皮辊粘花，选择合适的隔距块和钢丝圈，减少吐粗现象和断头的发生；络筒采用“低速度、保品质、接头好、成形良”的工艺，并进行上蜡，减少棉结、贴伏毛羽，减少断头，保证成纱质量的稳定。
作为本发明的一种改进，所述织造工艺具体如下：织造工艺流程：原料进厂--检验--蒸纱、给湿--络筒--上机编织-面料检验--入库。
作为本发明的一种改进，所述印染及后整理工艺流程具体如下：前处理、染色及后整理工序。
作为本发明的一种改进，所述前处理工艺具体如下：
(1)煮练，工艺处方：
Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-000001
工艺流程：加入煮练剂、螯合剂、渗透剂、柔软剂--入布--润湿运转10min--加入氢氧化钠--运转10min--升温至110℃--保温60min--降温至70℃--排液--热洗温度90℃,时间15min--水洗10min；
(2)氧漂，工艺处方
Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-000002
工艺流流程：加入多效助漂剂、碳酸钠、浴中柔软剂--运转10min--升温至60℃--双氧水--升温至110℃--保温60min--降温至70℃--溢流冲洗5min--排液--热洗温度90℃,时间15min--水洗10min；
(3)酶处理，工艺处方：
Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-000003
工艺流程，加入渗透剂--升温至50℃--加入冰醋酸--加入酶--保温60min--放液--升温至80℃--保温10min--放液--水洗10min。
作为本发明的一种改进，所述染色工艺具体如下：工艺处方：活性炭0.083％，活性红0.01％，元明粉35g/L,碳酸钠15g/L,匀染剂2g/L,螯合剂SX 1g/L,浴比1:15。
作为本发明的一种改进，所述染后处理工艺处方：
Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-000004
工艺流程：水洗10min--中和水洗--皂洗(90℃,15min)--水洗(10min，2次)--固色剂固色(40℃,15min)--柔软剂(40℃,15min)--排液。
相对于现有技术，本发明的优点如下，1)该技术方案开发的针织仿毛保暖面料汉麻/棉/丙纶混纺纱与聚丙烯弹性纤维经针织双面大圆机织造、染色和后整理加工而成，汉麻被誉为“麻中之王”，汉麻原生纤维是一种经特殊的高科技脱胶工艺处理制取的天然韧皮纤 维，其具有如下特点：1.抗菌保健，汉麻原生纤维为中空结构，含有大量的缝隙和孔洞，且孔洞之间相互交叉，该微孔结构可吸附大量氧气，使厌氧细菌难以生存，因此具有抑制厌氧菌的作用。此外，汉麻纤维中含有多种金属元素，酚类物质及其衍生物、有机酸和无机盐，能够破坏菌体的结构；2.抗紫外线，汉麻纤维的横截面为不规则的三角形、多边形或椭圆形等，中腔与外形不一，其分子结构为多棱形，较松散，有螺旋纹，因此汉麻纤维对音波、光波有良好的消散作用，无需特别整理可阻挡强紫外光的辐射；3.吸湿排汗，汉麻纤维纵向分布着许多竖纹和小孔洞，形成优异的毛细效应，因此排汗吸湿性好；4.防静电，暴露在空气中的汉麻纤维一般含水率在12％左右，手感却不觉湿，因此能轻易避免静电聚集及摩擦引起的放电和起球，然而汉麻韧皮含有较高的果胶和木质素，脱胶工艺至关重要，一直限制其规模化发展。目前，总后军需研究所已经成功研制了机械脱胶软麻设备，闪暴加工设备，生物脱胶，高温蒸煮设备。液氨整理设备和纤维分级梳理设备及相关技术，雅戈尔集团股份有限公司也攻克了环锭纺纱、整经、浆纱及织造等相关技术难题，为汉麻纤维产业化生产提供了技术支撑。但是汉麻纱线织物具有毛羽多，有刺痒感等难题一直没有有效突破。丙纶是由丙烯作原料经聚合、熔体纺丝制得的纤维，其物理性质如下：1.形态，丙纶的纵面平直光滑，截面呈圆形。2.密度，丙纶最大的优点是质地轻，其密度仅为0.91g/cm3是常见化学纤维中密度最轻的品种，所以同样重量的丙纶可比其他纤维得到的较高的覆盖面积。3.强伸性丙纶的强度高，伸长大，初始模量较高，弹 性优良，所以丙纶耐磨性好。此外，丙纶的湿强基本等于干强，所以它是制作渔网、缆绳的理想材料；4.吸湿性和染色性质轻保暖性好；几乎不吸湿，但芯吸能力很强，吸湿排汗作用明显；丙纶的吸湿性很小，一般大气条件下的回潮率接近于零。但它有芯吸作用，能通过织物中的毛细管传递水蒸气，但本身不起任何吸收作用。丙纶的染色性较差，色谱不全，但可以采用原液着色的方法来弥补不足；5.耐酸耐碱性丙纶有较好的耐化学腐蚀性，除了浓硝酸，浓的苛性钠外，丙纶对酸和碱抵抗性能良好，所以适于用作过滤材料和包装材料；6.耐光性丙纶耐光性较差，热稳定性也较差，易老化，不耐熨烫。但可以通过在纺丝时加入防老化剂，来提高其抗老化性能。此外，丙纶的电绝缘性良好，但加工时易产生静电。由于丙纶的导热系数较小，保暖性好；7.强度高丙纶弹力丝强度仅次于锦纶，但价格却只有锦纶的1/3；制成织物尺寸稳定，耐磨弹性也不错，化学稳定性好。但热稳定性差，不耐日晒，易于老化脆损，为此常在丙纶中加入抗老化剂。聚烯烃弹性纤维是一种新型弹性纤维，用法与氨纶相似，但具有非常独特的性能：1.化学性质稳定，耐强酸、强碱、氯漂、紫外照射等；2.定型温度低，120°-130°定型即可获得稳定的定型效果；3.成品尺寸稳定：针织布横竖缩率可以控制在1-2％以内；4.面料弹性舒适稳定，穿着者服用体验感优异；丙纶纤维具有质地轻，保暖率高，以及燃烧时不滴溅，不会造成穿着者烫伤等优点，在冬季保暖内衣市场上有广泛的应用需求。然而丙纶熔点低，在130度左右就开始融化，而氨纶的定型温度在170-180度左右。因此，丙纶织物中无 法加入氨纶，这就给丙纶织物的服用性造成极大的局限，使得丙纶保暖内衣长久以来无法得到广泛应用。聚烯烃弹性纤维在120度时，就可以达到良好的定型效果，与丙纶结合，可以为保暖内衣提高完整的解决方案。丙纶+聚烯烃弹性保暖面料，将是市场上新型、独特性产品，有着广泛的市场前景，也能为公司带来丰富利润。丙纶面料产品优势：1.燃烧时不滴溅，不会造成穿着者烫伤；2.同样克重，丙纶面料保暖率最高；3.同样保暖率，丙纶面料克重最低；4.缩水率低：横竖缩率在1-2％之内；5.成衣成本低：同样克重，丙纶面料面积最大；2)该技术方案采用汉麻/棉/丙纶混纺纱与舒弹丝针织面料坯布染色工艺技术，选择汉麻/棉/丙纶混纺纱与舒弹丝针织面料后整理工艺技术，包括磨毛、柔软、成品定型等技术，选择合理的预定型、漂煮、染料和染色工艺，保证上染率的同时，减少强力的损失；3)该方法开发的针织仿毛保暖面料，手感柔软丰满，绒感强，保暖性好，且具有抗菌除臭、吸附异味、抗紫外线、吸湿快干的功能，是一款档次高、功能性强的健康环保保暖面料，适合做中高档保暖外衣或裙装，深受广大消费者的喜爱，产品市场前景广阔。
具体实施方式
为了加深对本发明的认识和理解，下面结合具体实施方式，进一步阐明本发明。
实施例1：
一种针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，所述方法包括以下步骤：
1)原料选配；60〞325g/m2汉麻25/JC35/丙纶40 28S+75D舒 弹丝双面罗纹即幅宽为60英寸，每平方米325克，纱线原料为汉麻25/JC35/丙纶40 28S纱及75D舒弹丝，面料组织为双面罗纹；
汉麻原生纤维选用长度55mm、细度2500Nm左右的汉麻纤维，其超长纤维率为9.13％，硬条率为10.5％，麻粒为35粒/g,回潮率为9.02％；丙纶纤维选用1.5D×38mm；长绒棉选用137A新疆长绒棉，以上三种纤维混合纺制汉麻25/JC35/丙纶40 21tex(28S)针织纱，织造时所加的舒弹丝为75D聚丙烯弹力纤维；汉麻原生纤维粗硬，硬条率及超长纤维率较高，可纺性差，混纺比例不宜过高。选用汉麻纤维是为了使产品获得一定的抗菌、抗紫外线的功能，丙纶纤维导热系数小，保暖性好，适合用来做保暖面料，棉纤维吸湿性好，舒适自然，可放性好，可弥补汉麻纤维可纺性差的缺陷。
2)纺纱工艺；所述纺纱工艺具体如下：(1)按照质量比，汉麻原纤:长绒棉1：1：清花--梳棉--预并条；(2)长绒棉：清花--梳棉--预并条--条并卷---精梳；(3)丙纶纤维:清花--梳棉--预并条；上述三种纤维处理工艺如下，头道并条--二并--末并--粗纱--细纱。
汉麻原生纤维和少量长绒棉在开清工序混合，采用“多松少打、多收少落”的工艺，降低打手的速度，防止纤维过度损伤；梳棉工序采用“重定量、低速度、少落棉”工艺，增大锡林与刺辊线速比，以加强纤维由刺辊向锡林转移的能力，降低对纤维因过度梳理而导致的强力损失和长度损失，保证纤维的可纺性；放大小漏底的进口隔距，减少落棉；再经预并后制成定量一定的预并条。137A新疆长绒前纺清梳棉采用多梳少打的工艺，降低打手速度，减少纤维损伤；减小隔 距、加强分梳以去除杂质；保证一定的落棉率(16％)，去除短绒和棉结。丙纶纤维单独成条，经过清花、梳棉后制成预并条。汉麻预并条、长绒棉精梳条、丙纶预并条按设计比例三道混并制成熟条。混并工序采用“中定量、大隔距、合理张力牵伸，充分并合，防缠防堵”的工艺。粗纱采用“重加压，大隔距，低速度，中定量，小张力”的工艺，粗纱回潮率6.8％；细纺牵伸隔距为19×22mm,车间温度30℃，相对湿度65％，用碘酒处理皮辊，防止皮辊粘花，选择合适的隔距块和钢丝圈，减少吐粗现象和断头的发生；络筒采用“低速度、保品质、接头好、成形良”的工艺，并进行上蜡，减少棉结、贴伏毛羽，减少断头，保证成纱质量的稳定。
(1)50％汉麻原生纤维和50％长绒棉主要工艺参数：
清花工序：成卷设计湿定量400g/m,梳针打手速度560r/min，综合打手速度720r/min，设计定长30m,清花小卷定重13.5kg。梳棉工序：锡林-盖板隔距9×8×8×8×9〃；出条速度70m/min；生条定量32g/5m，预并条工序：并合根数6根，回潮率7.5％，湿定量28g/5m。
(2)长绒棉主要工艺参数：
开清棉工序：A076E综合打手速度780r/min，106打手速度480r/min，定量350g/m,棉卷定重：15kg。梳棉工序：锡林与盖板隔距：7*6*6*6*7〃，锡林速度：345r/min，刺辊速度：645r/min，出条速度：60m/min，梳棉定量：16g/5m。预并条：并合根数：5，回潮：7％，湿重：21.5g/5m。条并卷工艺：并合根数：28根；条卷隔距：8×12mm；车速：105m/min；回潮率：7％；湿重62g/m。精梳工艺：速度：255 钳次/分钟，回潮率：6.8％，落棉率：16％，湿重定量：17g/5m，出条速度：80m/min。
(3)丙纶纤维主要工艺参数：
开清棉工序：A076E综合打手速度750r/min，106打手速度450r/min，定量300g/m,棉卷定重：9.5kg。梳棉工序：锡林与盖板隔距：7*6*6*6*7〃，锡林速度：360r/min，刺辊速度：690r/min，出条速度：60m/min，梳棉定量：20g/5m。预并条：并合根数：8，定量：14g/5m。
(4)上述(1)、(2)、(3)最后制成的纤维条，再经三道并条工序进行相互混合。
表1并条工艺参数
Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-000005
(5)粗纱主要工艺参数
粗纱干定量4.8g/10m,捻度3.94捻/10厘米，后区牵伸倍数1.28倍，总牵伸倍数7.75倍，锭速850r/min。
(6)细纱主要工艺参数
细纱捻度76捻/10厘米，钢领PG1 4254，钢丝圈udr6/0,3.0压力棒隔距块，罗拉中心距19×22；细纱前罗拉转速240转/分，总牵伸22.8。
(7)络筒主要工艺参数
络筒速度800m/min,络筒张力圈重量20g,清纱曲线N230％，S150％×1.5cm,L30％×25cm。
汉麻原生纤维含麻粒较多，刚性大且比较脆硬，无天然卷曲，纤维抱合力及长度整齐度差，在进行纺纱之前需要对其预处理，以提高其可纺性。预处理即纺纱前对汉麻原生纤维进行处理，具体方法是添加抗静电软化油剂，抗静电软化油剂添加比为总重量的5％，与水按3：7均匀混合后喷洒到汉麻原纤上，放于车间静置4天，存放期间需翻理数次，使汉麻原纤的回潮率在15％以上。丙纶纤维回潮率几乎为零，需加2％左右抗静电剂。汉麻纤维经养生处理后，可纺性虽有所提高，还不能单独成卷成条，需与少量长绒棉在开清工序混合成卷，经梳棉机梳理后再与精梳长绒棉混合成条，预并后与丙纶预并条通过三道混合制成熟条，再经粗纱、细纱工序纺制成汉麻25/JC35/丙纶4021tex(28S)混纺纱。汉麻原生纤维和少量长绒棉在开清工序混合，采用“多松少打、多收少落”的工艺，降低打手的速度，防止纤维过度损伤；梳棉工序采用“重定量、低速度、少落棉”工艺，增大锡林与刺辊线速比，以加强纤维由刺辊向锡林转移的能力，降低对纤维因过度梳理而导致的强力损失和长度损失，保证纤维的可纺性；放大小漏底的进口隔距，减少落棉；再经预并后制成定量一定的预并条。137A新疆长绒前纺清梳棉采用多梳少打的工艺，降低打手速度，减少纤维损伤；减小隔距、加强分梳以去除杂质；保证一定的落棉率(16％)，去除短绒和棉结。丙纶纤维单独成条，经过清花、梳棉后制成预并条。汉麻预并条、长绒棉精梳条、丙纶预并条按设计比例三道混并制成熟 条。混并工序采用“中定量、大隔距、合理张力牵伸，充分并合，防缠防堵”的工艺。粗纱采用“重加压，大隔距，低速度，中定量，小张力”的工艺，粗纱回潮率6.8％；细纺牵伸隔距为19×22mm,车间温度30℃，相对湿度65％，用碘酒处理皮辊，防止皮辊粘花，选择合适的隔距块和钢丝圈，减少吐粗现象和断头的发生；络筒采用“低速度、保品质、接头好、成形良”的工艺，并进行上蜡，减少棉结、贴伏毛羽，减少断头，保证成纱质量的稳定。
3)织造工艺；织造工艺流程：原料进厂--检验--蒸纱给湿，蒸纱给湿就是将纱放在蒸汽房里蒸8小时以提高纱的含湿量--络筒--上机编织-面料检验--入库。
织物组织：双面罗纹(棉毛布)。
织造上机工艺：34英寸，24针，双面大圆机；
纱支：汉麻25/JC35/丙纶40 28S+75D舒弹丝；
纱长：50针为16.5CM，一隔一加70D舒弹丝；
匹重：20kg/匹，留抽针剖幅线。
面料要求：1、面料要求做到布面平整、无横条、无竖条，布面疵点在内控范围内；2、面料中的舒弹丝要做到三无。即：无断丝、无跑丝、无跳丝；3、面料要弹性好，手感软，绒感强。针织大圆机使用前，要先检查机器各部件是否有缺损，配合是否有松动，主要部件的精确度是否控制在规定范围内，针筒和针盘上的织针是否圆整平齐，机器是否平稳。整改措施到位后进行织造调试，按照工艺要求穿混纺纱和舒弹丝，保证纱长到位。
汉麻/棉/丙纶混纺纱筒纱上车进行针织织造前，需经过蒸纱、给湿，降低汉麻原纤模量，增强纱线的柔韧性和强力。上机织造时，采用较小的车速，调节针筒口的位置，上下针位错开的距离，压针的深浅，纱线张力，舒弹丝的长短及布面张力，解决纱线断头较多、布面有破洞的问题，解决跑丝、跳丝疵点，保证布面质量。此外，需要将织造车台环境湿度调至60％以上，一是减少汉麻原生短纤维在织造过程中从纱线中脱离产生的飞花，防止其堵塞织针，影响编织；二是降低汉麻/棉/丙纶混纺纱中水分散失的速度，使纱线中的汉麻原生纤维的模量适合织造要求，保证生产的正常进行。
4)印染及后整理，包括前处理、染色及后整理工序，染色采用中常温染色，较低车速。工艺主要包含前处理、染色及后整理工序，具体为煮练、氧漂、染色、水洗、脱水、松式烘干、柔软定型、碳磨毛、拉幅定型和预缩工序。
(一)前处理工艺
(1)煮练
工艺处方：
Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-000006
工艺流程：加入煮练剂、螯合剂、渗透剂、柔软剂--入布--润湿运转10min--加入氢氧化钠--运转10min--升温至110℃--保温 60min--降温至70℃--排液--热洗(90℃,15min)--水洗10min
(2)氧漂
工艺处方
Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-000007
工艺流程：加入多效助漂剂、碳酸钠、浴中柔软剂--运转10min--升温至60℃--双氧水--升温至110℃--保温60min--降温至70℃--溢流冲洗5min--排液--热洗温度90℃,时间15min--水洗10min
(3)酶处理
工艺处方
Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-000008
工艺流程：加入渗透剂--升温至50℃--加入冰醋酸--加入酶--保温60min--放液--升温至80℃--保温10min--放液--水洗10min。
(二)染色工艺
工艺处方
Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-000009
Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-000010
(三)染后处理
工艺处方
Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-000011
工艺流程：水洗10min--中和水洗--皂洗(90℃,15min)--水洗(10min，2次)--固色剂固色(40℃,15min)--柔软剂(40℃,15min)--排液。
(四)整理定型工艺
工艺流程：水洗--脱水--剖幅--浸轧特殊变性硅酮油--平幅预缩松式烘干，温度为110℃,时间为2min，--柔软定型温度为118℃—碳磨毛--烘房定形机拉幅定形，温度为118℃—预缩--落布放置--检验--成品。
染色采用中常温染色，较低车速。工艺主要包含前处理、染色及后整理工序，具体为煮练、氧漂、染色、水洗、脱水、松式烘干、柔软定型、碳磨毛、拉幅定型和预缩工序。
由于该针织面料的组成成分为纤维素纤维，且丙纶纤维不耐高温，故采用中常温活性染料一浴法染色，染色过程中适当增加元明粉的用量，可提高该针织物的上染率；采用纤维素酶处理和柔软整理，可减轻麻面料的刺痒感，增强舒适性能；采用碳磨毛整理，在织物表 面形成非常短且柔软的绒毛，使织物具有一定的骨感，垂感，肉感，增强面料绒感、柔软性和保暖性；定型使面料尺寸稳定，拥有最小的缩水率，由于丙纶熔点低，应严格控制定型温度，防止丙纶熔化。
需要说明是上述实施例仅仅是本发明的较佳实施例，并没有用来限定本发明的保护范围，在上述技术方案的基础上做出的等同替换或者替代均属于本发明的保护范围。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述方法包括以下步骤：1)原料选配；2)纺纱工艺；3)织造工艺；4)印染及后整理。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述步骤1)中原料选配具体如下：选用汉麻原生纤维，长度55mm、细度2500Nm的汉麻纤维，其超长纤维率为9.13％，硬条率为10.5％，麻粒为35粒/g,回潮率为9.02％；丙纶纤维选用1.5D×38mm；长绒棉选用137A长绒棉，以上三种纤维混合纺制“汉麻纤维25％，长绒棉即精梳棉35％，丙纶纤维40％，21特克斯(28英支)针织纱”，织造时添加舒弹丝，具体为75D聚丙烯弹力纤维。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述纺纱工艺具体如下：
    (1)汉麻原纤，具体工艺为，清花--梳棉--预并条；
    (2)长绒棉，具体工艺为，清花--梳棉--预并条--条并卷---精梳；
    (3)丙纶纤维:具体工艺为清花--梳棉--预并条；
    三种纤维处理工艺如下，头道并条--二并--末并--粗纱--细纱。
  4. 根据权利要求3所述的针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述纺纱工艺具体如下：所述清花就是开清棉工序，是将压紧的棉花开松、除杂，适当梳理后制成棉卷。梳棉工序是将棉卷进一步梳理除杂后形成棉条即生条；预并条是将多根生条并合经牵伸后并合成一根棉条即预并条；条并卷是将预并条多根并合形成条卷，以便喂入 精梳机；精梳是将条卷进行梳理去除大量短绒，且并合成一根精梳条；头道并条、二并、末并是将多种纤维进行混合，并经多次并合牵伸后制成可供给粗纱工序所用的棉条即熟条；粗纱是将熟条牵伸加捻成更细的粗纱条；细纱是将粗纱条牵伸加捻成所设计的成品纱。
  5. 根据权利要求3所述的针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述纺纱工艺具体如下：在进行纺纱之前，需要对汉麻原生纤维进行预处理，以提高其可纺性，预处理方法是添加抗静电软化油剂，抗静电软化油剂添加比为总重量的5％，与水按3：7均匀混合后喷洒到汉麻原纤上，放于车间静置4天，存放期间需翻理数次，使汉麻原纤的回潮率在15％以上；丙纶纤维回潮率几乎为零，需加2％左右抗静电剂。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述织造工艺具体如下：织造工艺流程：原料进厂--检验--蒸纱、给湿--络筒--上机编织-面料检验--入库。
  7. 根据权利要求1所述的针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述印染及后整理工艺流程具体如下：前处理、染色及后整理工序。
  8. 根据权利要求5所述的针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述前处理工艺具体如下：
    (1)煮练，工艺处方：
    Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-100001
    Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-100002
    工艺流程：加入煮练剂、螯合剂、渗透剂、柔软剂--入布--润湿运转10min--加入氢氧化钠--运转10min--升温至110℃--保温60min--降温至70℃--排液--热洗温度90℃,时间15min--水洗10min；
    (2)氧漂，工艺处方
    Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-100003
    工艺流流程：加入多效助漂剂、碳酸钠、浴中柔软剂--运转10min--升温至60℃--双氧水--升温至110℃--保温60min--降温至70℃--溢流冲洗5min--排液--热洗温度90℃,时间15min--水洗10min；
    (3)酶处理，工艺处方：
    Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-100004
    工艺流程，加入渗透剂--升温至50℃--加入冰醋酸--加入酶--保温60min--放液--升温至80℃--保温10min--放液--水洗10min。
  9. 根据权利要求5所述的针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述染色工艺具体如下：工艺处方：活性炭0.083％，活性红0.01％，元明粉35g/L,碳酸钠15g/L,匀染剂2g/L,螯合剂SX1g/L,浴比1:15。
  10. 根据权利要求5所述的针织仿毛保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述染后处理工艺处方：
    Figure PCTCN2016083509-appb-100005
    工艺流程：水洗10min--中和水洗--皂洗(90℃,15min)--水洗(10min，2次)--固色剂固色(40℃,15min)--柔软剂(40℃,15min)--排液。
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