WO2016087166A1

WO2016087166A1 - Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of water-in-silicone oil emulsions, containing bis-(glyceryl/lauryl) glyceryl/lauryl dimethicone and dehydroacetic acid

Info

Publication number: WO2016087166A1
Application number: PCT/EP2015/076128
Authority: WO
Inventors: Delphine CHANTY; Thomas Raschke; Sabrina SCHULZE
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2014-12-05
Filing date: 2015-11-10
Publication date: 2016-06-09
Also published as: DE102014224998A1

Abstract

Water-in-silicone oil emulsion containing (a) bis-(glyceryl/lauryl) glyceryl/lauryl dimethicone as the emulsifier and optionally other emulsifiers; and (b) dehydroacetic acid or the physiologically compatible, water-soluble salts thereof.

Description

description

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of water-in-silicone oil emulsions containing bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone and

dehydroacetic

The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation in the form of water-in-silicone oil emulsions containing bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone and dehydroacetic acid.

Users place a number of demands on modern skincare products, especially in the form of face creams. They should care for the skin, in particular to provide the skin with moisture for a long time. This is usually done via "moisturizers" that bind water in the stratum corneum (e.g., glycerin), and with added lipids, the upper dander is kept supple and the transepidermal water loss is reduced.

Furthermore, users often expect an effect against the signs of aging of the skin, e.g. the development of wrinkles, the lessening of skin elasticity or the development of age spots. For this purpose, on the one hand active ingredients are used, for example, stimulate the activity of skin cells, but also increasingly used UV filters that block especially responsible for skin aging UVA rays. All these ingredients pose a great challenge for a pleasant sensory, as they remain as a film on the skin after evaporation of the volatile constituents of the formulation, and sensed by the consumer sensory there. The sensible residues are often described negatively and prevent the feeling that the product is completely "absorbed" in the skin.

In order to make the residues required by the formulation and market requirements more sensory, a number of sensor additives are used. In particular, silicone compounds and powder raw materials are mentioned here, since they can mask the sticky feel of, for example, glycerol or the oily / greasy appearance of many lipids or UV filters. In products, there is an increased use of silicone elastomers, which are cross-linked and / or modified polydimethylsiloxanes, which are usually swollen in a medium as a gel. This medium is preferably a low-viscosity, preferably volatile silicone. This class of raw material provides a powdery / dry, velvety / silky feel on the skin after dispensing and may, depending on the type of formulation, mask oily / greasy and / or sticky raw materials.

In general, the pleasant sensory properties of the silicone elastomers in W / O emulsions are more pronounced than in O / W emulsions, since in this case they are in the outer, hydrophobic phase and thus can be perceived directly by sensors.

A preferred way to formulate sensory highly attractive facial care products with UV protection, skin care and active ingredients is thus to produce W / O emulsions in which UV filters, lipids, moisturizers and active ingredients are combined with silicone elastomers.

W / O emulsifiers are usually used in comparatively high concentrations of 3-5% to obtain stable emulsions. The described combination of ingredients, in particular the combination of organic lipids and UV filters with quite high amounts of silicones from the silicone elastomer, places high demands on the emulsifier. Because of the high silicone content, a silicone-based emulsifier is usually required.

Silicone-based emulsifiers almost exclusively contain PEG- and PPG-containing groups as a hydrophilic component. In particular, the PEG derivatives are repeatedly due to compatibility risks in the public debate, which is why preferred formulated without such substances. However, the choice of PEG-free silicone emulsifiers is limited; for example, KF-6100, KF-6104, KF-6105 or KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 or KSG-840 from Shin Etsu or Abil EM 120 from Evonik. Descriptions of these emulsifiers can be found in European patent EP 1213316 and European patent applications EP 1550687 and EP 2243799. The prior art always discloses a high level of at least 2%, often even 3-5%, silicone emulsifier for skin care compositions to obtain stable emulsions.

The high content of emulsifier always has an effect on the sensor technology of the relevant emulsion. The emulsifier Abil EM 120 from Evonik, for example, shows a very waxy sensor that is negatively evaluated by the consumer. The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a stable (storage-stable, transport-stable, long-term stable) water-in-silicone oil (W / Si) ) Emulsion that is sensory attractive and PEG-free, meeting all the requirements of a modern facial care product.

One class of preservatives which are well tolerated are preservative organic acids, especially salicylic acid, benzoic acid, propionic acid, dehydroacetic acid (3-acetyl-6-methyl-2H-pyran-2,4 (3H) -dione) and sorbic acid, or their physiologically acceptable water-soluble metal salts.

Dehydroacetic acid is characterized by the following chemical structure:

A disadvantage of these preservatives is the fact that they are effective only in comparatively high concentrations and at acidic pH values. This complicates or limits the incorporation of the acids into the preparations. Furthermore, the required concentrations lead to an impairment of the sensory properties and have an adverse effect on the stability of the formulation.

Overall, the main problem remains that water-in-silicone oil emulsions tend to be unstable. Known evils of this kind are oil separation and phase separation. The problem becomes even greater when mineral oils have to be incorporated, as is the case for example in so-called "foundations." Although this can be counteracted by using known stabilizers (for example hectorites), or the proportion of the oil phase can be reduced As a result, however, other disadvantages must then be taken into account, for example, that pigments can be incorporated less easily.

Object of the present invention was therefore to counteract these evils.

The object is surprisingly achieved by containing a cosmetic water-in-silicone oil emulsion a) as emulsifier bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone and, if desired, further emulsifiers

and

b) dehydroacetic acid or its physiologically acceptable water-soluble salts.

Water-in-silicone oil Emulsions according to the invention are emulsions whose outer phase is a lipophilic phase whose content of silicone oils is at least 40, preferably at least 50,% by weight, based on the lipophilic phase. Suitable silicone oils are, for example, cyclomethicones and / or dimethicones.

According to the invention, water-in-silicone oil emulsions contain 0, 1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by weight on the total weight of the preparation, of bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone.

Bis- (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone can be purchased as a preparation with caprylic / capric triglyceride, for example, from Evonik under the trade name Abil® EM120.

It was therefore unforeseeable for the skilled person that the preparations according to the invention would be stabilized by dehydroacetic acid.

Furthermore, under these Auspizien was not expected that the preparations of the invention

work better than moisturizing preparations,

be easier to formulate

better promote skin smoothing,

characterized by better care,

better serve as a vehicle for cosmetic and dermatological agents

better sensory properties, such as the skin spread or the skin's ability to absorb

have higher stability to decay in oil and water phases and would be characterized by better biocompatibility

as the preparations of the prior art.

The preparations according to the invention are free-flowing but can also be formulated into creams, have very good cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to stickiness, and have very good skin compatibility and skin care performance. When the term "oil phase" is used in the context of this invention, this term generally encompasses the entirety of silicone oil and other oils, waxes and fats, unless expressly stated otherwise.

According to the invention, it is possible and advantageous to freely choose the proportion of the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention in the range from 3 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.01-5% by weight, more preferably 0.1-1.0% by weight, of dehydroacetic acid, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The oil or lipid phase according to the invention may contain all oils, fats, waxes and / or lipids customary in cosmetic preparations.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention may advantageously comprise customary cosmetic auxiliaries, for example alcohols, in particular those of low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, self-tanning agents, etc.

As basic components of the preparations according to the invention can be used:

Water or aqueous solutions

aqueous ethanolic solutions

natural oils and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetic oils;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;

Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products , In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.

The oil phase of the emulsions according to the present invention consists, according to the invention, at least in part of silicone oils.

It is preferred to choose the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicones, which are also referred to as "silicone oils" within the scope of the present disclosure Such silicones or silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are generally used as monomers Structural elements are characterized as follows:

? ¹

R ₂ - O-Si-O-R ₃

R ₄

Linear silicones having a plurality of siloxyl units which are advantageously used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals Ri - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), m assume values of 2 - 200,000.

Cyclic silicones which are advantageously used in accordance with the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals Ri - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4), n assume values of 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.

Advantageously, phenyltrimethicone is chosen as the silicone oil. Other silicone oils, for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone, are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.

Also advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and Isotridecylisononanoat, and those of cyclomethicone and 2-Ethylhexylisostearat.

However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils of similar constitution as the compounds described above, whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers, such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)

However, it is possible to accept without major disadvantages to choose oil components from the group of other oil components. These can then be advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and also synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil. Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected in part from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Fat and / or wax components which can advantageously be used according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes. Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, Ozokerite (wax), paraffin waxes and microwaxes.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as, for example, those sold under the trade names Syraxax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C 16-36 fatty acid triglyceride) and Syncro wax AW 1 C (C-18 And montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (eg dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C3o-so-alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically Modified fats, such as. Hydrogenated vegetable oils (eg hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fatty glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C2o-4o-alkyl stearate, C2o-4o-alkylhydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate. Also advantageous are certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties to the fatty and / or wax components mentioned, such as, for example, stearoxytrimethylsilane.

According to the invention, the fat and / or wax components can be present both individually and in a mixture. Blends of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

Advantageously, the oil components are selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C 12-18 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and also mixtures of C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains siloxane elastomers.

Embodiments of the present invention which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation contains siloxane elastomers in a concentration of 5 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The silicone elastomers according to the invention are crosslinked, optionally substituted organopolysiloxanes which have swollen in a suitable carrier medium. The crosslinking may have been carried out by means of all common methods and crosslinkers. Carrier media may e.g. cyclic or linear silicones as well as organic lipids. Suitable commercially available silicone elastomer gels are e.g. KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330, KSG-340, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44, KSG 710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830, KSG-840 from Shin Etsu, Velvesil DM, Velvesil 125, Velvesil Plus, or other Velvesil gel types or Silsoft Silicone Gel from Momentive, or EL-8040 ID, EL -8050 ID, EL-8051 IN, EL-8052, 9040, 9041, 9045, or EL-9140 DM from Dow Corning.

It has been found that a satisfactory stabilization and viscosity can be achieved, in particular in combination with at least one further, particulate substance. Particular preference is given here to particulate substances based on silicon, in particular silicates, silicones and modified silicones or silicone-hybrid polymers. Suitable particulates are, for example, silica-based particles such as Aerosil types from Evonik, or VM-2270 Airgel Fine Particles from Dow Corning, silicone-based particles such as 9506 Powder, 9701 Cosmetic Powder, EP-9215 Cosmetic Powder, EP-9261 Ti Cosmetic Powder, EP-9289 EP Cosmetic Powder, or EP-9289 AL Cosmetic Powder from Dow Corning, KMP-590, KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-105 or KSP-300 from Shin Etsu, or Velvesil FX or others Velvesil types from Momentive. An example of a silicone-hybrid polymer particle is the recently presented experimental KR 1891 from Evonik, which is a silicone methacrylate.

According to the invention, additional emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of silicone emulsifiers, these in turn advantageously from the group of surface-active substances from the group of alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by following chemical structure:

- CH ₃

in which X and Y are independently selected from the group H and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, p is a number from 0 to 200, q is a number from 1 to 40, and r is one Number from 1 - 100 represents.

An example of silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is cetyl dimethicone copolyol, which is available from the company

Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 90 is sold.

A further example of silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 97.

Furthermore, the silicone emulsifier laurylmethicone copolyol which has been sold under the trade name Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning Ltd. has proved particularly advantageous. is available. Formulations according to the present invention may also contain one or more additional non-silicone emulsifiers, for example advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which as a rule act as W / O emulsifiers.

Sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, wool wax acid mixtures, wool wax alcohol mixtures, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, methyl glucose dioleate, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate _T lauryl methicone copolyol, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate.

Formulations according to the present invention may also contain one or more additional non-silicone emulsifiers, for example advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which as a rule act as O / W emulsifiers:

Ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, triceteareth-4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, sodium cetostearylsulfate, stearic acid, polysorbate 60, laureth-4, laureth-23, glycol distearate, PEG-22-dodecyl glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG 4-stearate, ceteareth-20, methyl glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, steareth-21, steareth-20, isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / dodecylglycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG -40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, ceteth-20, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, ceteareth-12, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, trilaureth-4-phosphate, polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate, potassium cetyl phosphate PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, sodium stearoylglutamate.

It was particularly surprising that cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention have very particularly advantageous properties.

The total amount of silicone emulsifiers used according to the invention in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the range of 0.01-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.2-5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of preparations.

The total amount of non-silicone emulsifiers used according to the invention in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention becomes advantageous the range of 0.001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Emulsions according to the invention for the purposes of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a skin protection cream, a skin lotion, a cosmetic milk, for example in the form of a sunscreen cream or a sunscreen milk, are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as they are commonly used for such a type of formulation.

Of course, it is known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are generally not conceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, bodying agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, pigments, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic substances, etc.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medicinal topical compositions according to the present invention usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (for example, Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Medicines Act).

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions according to the present invention, depending on their structure, for example, be used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient cream, day or night cream, etc. It is possible and advantageous, the compositions of the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical To use formulations.

It is also advantageous to make use of the properties according to the invention in the form of decorative cosmetics (make-up formulations).

Also favorable are those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen. Preferably these contain, in addition to the According to the active ingredient used in addition at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

However, it is also advantageous in the context of the present inventions to prepare such cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not the protection from sunlight, but which nevertheless contain a content of UV protective substances. Thus, for example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated in day creams.

Advantageously, preparations according to the invention may contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances being e.g. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances are e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2-ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;

2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine

As water-soluble substances are advantageous:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, e.g. Sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts,

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts.

The list of said UVB filters which can be used according to the invention should of course not be limiting.

It may also be advantageous to use UVA filters in formulations according to the invention which are customarily contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1 - (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3-one. (4'-isopropyl-phenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. Also preparations containing these combinations are the subject of the invention. The same quantities of UVA filter substances which have been mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the present invention may also contain inorganic pigments which are commonly used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, chromium, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. But also ultramarine blue and pearl gloss pigments. Particular preference is given to pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts mentioned for the above combinations may be used.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic active substances, auxiliaries and / or additives such as are customarily used in such preparations, e.g. Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, foaming inhibitors, colorants, pigments that have coloring properties, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

To prepare the emulsions according to the invention, the lipophilic phase and the aqueous phase are weighed separately, the W / Si emulsifier being added to the lipophilic phase (oil phase). The oil phase is heated to 60 ° C with stirring to dissolve any UV filters. Thereafter, the oil phase is cooled back to room temperature. The water- phase, whose pH is adjusted to about 5.5 to 6.0 until the acid is dissolved, is slowly added with stirring to the oil phase and then thoroughly mixed with a high-speed mixer (eg a magic wand).

To determine storage stability, all emulsion samples are stored in screw-retained 30 ml glasses at different temperatures: at room temperature (RT) (about 20 ° C), at +6 ° C, +40 ° C and at +50 ° C.

The stability was visually evaluated.

Surprisingly, the W / Si emulsions with dehydroacetic acid have a significantly better stability (no or only slight phase separation, no or only slight oil separation) than the emulsions without dehydroacetic acid.

Example recipe / temperatures + 6 ° C RT 40 ° C 50 ° C

1 - base (without dehydroacetic acid) unstable unstable unstable unstable

after 1 to 1 to 1 to 1

Day day day day

2 - Base with Dehydra Acid Stabil Stable Stabil

after 1

1 month 1 month 1 month month

The emulsion samples were also examined in a so-called Lumifugen test. Here, an optically temperature-controlled "Lumifuge" (LUMGmbH) is used, using standard polycarbonate (2x8mm) disposable measuring cells filled with 4 ml_ sample volumes, measurements take place at 40 ° C and light factor 1. The samples are measured between 12 and measured at a speed of 3500 rpm for 24 h.

The optical properties of the samples in the PC cuvettes are evaluated after the centrifugal stress.

Result:

In the case of example formulation 1 (base without dehydraacetic acid), complete phase separation occurs under the test conditions described above.

In example recipe 2 (base with dehydraacetic acid), it can be seen from the experiment that the emulsion is largely unchanged. One recognizes only a small transparent phase (oil) on the surface of the emulsion.

The addition of dehydroacetic acid consequently increases the stability of the W / Si emulsion to physical influences.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention. Example recipe 1% by weight

Bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone (Abil® EM 120) 3

Cyclomethicone 15

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 1

Octocrylene 3

Water 100% ad 100

Example recipe 2% by weight

Bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone (Abil® EM 120) 3

Cyclomethicone 15

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 1

Octocrylene 3

Dehydroacetic acid 0.5

Water 100% ad 100

Example recipe 3% by weight

Bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone (Abil® EM 120) 3

Cyclomethicone 15

Propylene carbonate 0.2

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 1

Octocrylene 3

Ethylhexylglycerol 0.1

Disteardimonium hectorite 1

Color pigments (Cl 77891, Cl 77492, Cl 77491, Cl 77499, Cl 77007) 9

Dehydroacetic acid 0.4

Trisodium EDTA 1

Propylene glycol 2

Glycerol 5

Phenoxyethanol 0.4

Perfume 0.2

Water 100% ad 100

Example recipe 4% by weight

Bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone (Abil® EM 120) 3

Dimethicone 10

PEG-40 Stearate 0.2

Dicaprylyl ether 5

Dimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer 5

Propylene carbonate 0.2

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 2

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 1

Octocrylene 3

Disteardimonium hectorite 1

Color pigments (Cl 77891, Cl 77492, Cl 77491, Cl 77499, Cl 77007) 9

Dehydroacetic acid 0.4

Trisodium EDTA 1

Propylene glycol 2

Glycerol 8.5

Phenoxyethanol 0.4

Levulinic acid 0.1

Water 100% ad 100

Example recipe 5% by weight

Bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone (Abil® EM 120) 4

Dimethicone 10

Sodium stearoylglutamate 0.2

Dicaprylyl ether 5

Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone 1

Propylene carbonate 0.2

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 2

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 1

Octocrylene 3

Disteardimonium hectorite 1

Creatine 0.2

Dehydroacetic acid 0.4

Trisodium EDTA 1

Glyceryl caprylate 0.1

Glycerol 4

Phenoxyethanol 0.3

Perfume 0.2

Water 100% ad 100

Claims

claims

1. Water-in-silicone oil emulsion containing

a) bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone as W / Si emulsifier and, if desired, further emulsifiers

and

b) dehydroacetic acid or its physiologically acceptable water-soluble salts.

2. Water-in-silicone oil emulsions according to claim 1, characterized in that they are 0.01 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to

3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, of bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone.

3. Water-in-silicone oil emulsions according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they are 0.001 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1, 0 wt. -% of dehydroacetic acid or its physiologically acceptable water-soluble salts, based on the total weight of the preparations.

4. Water-in-silicone oil emulsions according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more emulsifiers are selected from the group of hydrophilic O / W emulsifiers, preferably acylglutamates, alkyl sulfates and alkyl phosphates and their alkali metal salts, and containing PEG esters Fatty acids with 10- 22 C atoms.