DE102017200922A1 - Water-in-oil emulsions containing spherical silica particles coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxides and one or more W / O emulsifiers - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological emulsions, comprisinga) a content of spherical silica particles coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxides, b) one or more W / O emulsifiers from the group Abil EM 90, Abil EM 180, (Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone) Abil EM 120 (bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl lauryl dimethicone (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride) from Evonik and ES-5600 (cetyl diglyceryl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl dimethicone) from Dow Corning, c) an aqueous phase, d) an oil phase.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation in the form of water-in-oil emulsions containing spherical silica particles which are coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxides and one or more W / O emulsifiers.

Users place a number of demands on modern skincare products, especially in the form of face creams. They should care for the skin, in particular to provide the skin with moisture for a long time. This is usually realized via "moisturizers", which bind water in the stratum corneum (eg glycerin), and with added lipids the upper dander is kept supple and the transepidermal water loss is reduced.

Furthermore, users often expect an effect against the signs of aging, such as skin aging. As the formation of wrinkles, the relaxation of skin elasticity or the development of age spots. For this purpose, on the one hand agents are used, for example, stimulate the activity of skin cells, but also increasingly used UV filters that block especially responsible for skin aging UVA rays. All these ingredients pose a great challenge for a pleasant sensory, since they remain on the skin as a film after evaporation of the volatiles of the formulation and sensory perceived by the consumer there. The sensible residues are often described negatively and prevent the feeling that the product is completely "absorbed" in the skin.

In order to make the visible residues required by the formulation and market requirements more sensory, a number of sensor additives are used. In particular, silicone compounds, and mineral pigments are mentioned here, since they the sticky feel of z. As glycerol or the oily / greasy appearance of many lipids or UV filters can mask. One finds in products increasingly the use of so-called mineral pigments, which can be improved sensor technology. However, many W / O emulsions are negative in that their physical stability is often limited.

Conventional emulsions are often used by consumers when they want to care for or treat dry skin. Emulsions also offer advantages in the incorporation of color pigments, eg. In tinted day creams and make-up. Unfortunately, many W / O emulsions are negative in that they leave this oily residue on the skin, which absorbs only slowly. In addition, their physical stability is often limited. This is particularly problematic when W / O emulsions with mineral pigments are to be formulated.

Another problem of the prior art is that it usually requires sophisticated development work to formulate low-viscosity W / O emulsions, especially those with increased water content.

The term "viscosity" refers to the property of a liquid to oppose resistance (toughness, internal friction) to the mutual laminar displacement of two adjacent layers. Today, this so-called dynamic viscosity is defined according to η = τ / D as the ratio of the shear stress to the velocity gradient perpendicular to the flow direction. For Newtonian fluids, η at given temperature is a material constant with the SI unit pascal second (Pa · s).

The quotient v = η / ρ from the dynamic viscosity η and the density p ("rho") of the liquid is referred to as the kinematic viscosity v ("ny") and in the SI unit m ² / s.

The fluidity (φ) is the reciprocal of the viscosity (φ = 1 / η). In ointments and the like, the use value is among other things determined by the so-called speed.

The tackiness of an ointment or ointment base or the like is understood to mean their property of drawing threads of different lengths when parting off; Accordingly, one differentiates between short and long-lasting substances.

While the graphic representation of the flow behavior of Newtonian fluids gives a straight line at a given temperature, considerable deviations often occur in the so-called non-Newtonian fluids as a function of the respective velocity gradient D (shear rate γ̇) or the shear stress τ. In these cases, the so-called apparent viscosity can be determined, although does not obey Newton's equation, but from which the true viscosity values can be determined by graphic methods.

bestimmbar ist, wobei

r =

Radius der Kugel,

V =

Fallgeschwindigkeit,

ρ_K =

Dichte der Kugel,

ρ_FI =

Dichte der Flüssigkeit und

g =

Fallbeschleunigung.

Falling body viscometry is only suitable for studying Newtonian fluids and gases. It is based on the Stokes law, according to which for the falling of a ball by a liquid flowing around it, the dynamic viscosity η from $$\mathrm{\eta }=\frac{{\text{2r}}^2\left({\mathrm{\rho }}_{\text{K}}-{\mathrm{\rho }}_{\text{FI}}\right)\cdot \text{G}}{9\cdot \text{v}}$$

is determinable, where

r =

Radius of the sphere,

V =

Falling speed,

ρ _K =

Density of the ball,

ρ _FI =

Density of the liquid and

g =

Acceleration of gravity.

Low viscosities in the context of the present invention are in the interval from 100 to 20,000 mPa.s, preferably from 200 to 10,000 mPa.s, particularly preferably from 300 to 5000 mPa.s at a temperature of 25 ° C and a shear rate of about 10 s ^-1 lie.

Silicone-based emulsifiers almost exclusively contain PEG- and PPG-containing groups as a hydrophilic component. Typical representatives are Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (Abil EM 90, 180) from Evonik or PEG-10 Dimethicone (ES-5612 Formulation Aid) from Dow Corning. These examples are successful and long-established W / O emulsifiers in the market. The choice of PEG-free silicone emulsifiers is limited; For example, KF-6100, KF-6104, KF-6105 or KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 or KSG-840 from Shin Etsu or Abil EM 120 from Evonik can be found here.

Robust and well-established W / O emulsifiers include Dow Corning's PEG-10 dimethicone (ES-5612 Formulation Aid) and polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate. Further known W / O emulsifiers are cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicones (Abil EM 90, 180) and bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl / lauryl dimethicone (Abil EM 120) from Evonik or cetyl diglyceryl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl dimethicone (ES-5600) from Dow Corning.

Usually, these W / O emulsifiers are used in high concentrations of several percent. The choice of oils for W / O emulsions and in particular for W / Si emulsions is limited, since a high proportion of non-polar oils is required for good long-term stability. Therefore, in W / Si emulsions essentially silicone oils and / or liquid hydrocarbons are used.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide stable (storage-stable, transport-stable, long-term stable) water-in-oil emulsions which are sensory attractive, into which a large amount of mineral pigments can be incorporated and yet meet all requirements for a modern one Face care product meets.

Overall, the main problem remains that water-in-oil emulsions tend to be unstable. Known evils of this kind are oil separation and phase separation. The problem is even greater when mineral pigments have to be incorporated, as is the case for example in so-called "foundations". Although this can be counteracted by using known stabilizers (for example hectorites) or the proportion of the oil phase can be increased. However, mainly silicone oils or mineral oils are used. However, other disadvantages must then be taken into account, for example, that polar lipophilic substances such as, for example, UV filters can be incorporated less easily.

Luster pigments are platelet-shaped effect pigments in which "shine effects are produced by directional reflection on predominantly flat-shaped and oriented metallic or strongly refractive pigment particles". For cosmetic preparations, for example, pearlescent pigments are very popular. Luster pigments are used, for example, for applying eye shadow.

As a basic raw material for pearlescent pigments is often used naturally occurring mica. The finely ground mica flakes are coated with different colored pigments to obtain pearlescent pigments in different colors. Pearlescent pigments are also luster pigments that consist of colorless, transparent and high-refractive leaflets. After parallel orientation in paints or plastics, multiple reflection produces a "soft" gloss effect called pearlescent. The first pigment of this kind was the guanine-containing fish-silver still used today in nail polish.

It is known that by using so-called "soft-focus raw materials" minor skin irregularities and wrinkles can be optically concealed. Such raw materials are characterized by a suitable refraction of light and light scattering and mitigate the surface phenomena of the skin through their diffuse scattering behavior.

Pigments typically form in the form of the primary particles. The primary particles can grow together to form aggregates via their surfaces. Agglomerates are when primary particles and / or aggregates are connected by their corners / edges. Due to the dispersing process (dispersion) when the pigments are incorporated into an application medium, the pigment agglomerates are comminuted by mechanical shearing. This results in smaller agglomerates, aggregates and primary particles. These are, if present, wetted by a dispersion medium. Ideally, they are distributed statistically via the application medium.

There are many pigments known as "soft focus effect". It is problematic, however, that such pigments, like many solids, can often be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological preparations in a stable manner only by formulatorical manipulations.

Object of the present invention was therefore to counteract these evils.

1. a) einem Gehalt an sphärischen Silicapartikeln, welche mit Titandioxid und Eisenoxiden beschichtet sind,
2. b) einen oder mehrere W/O Emulgatoren aus der Gruppe Abil EM 90, Abil EM 180 (Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone), Abil EM 120 (Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl Lauryl Dimethicone (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) von Evonik und ES-5600 (Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl Dimethicone) von Dow Corning,
3. c) eine wässrige Phase,
4. d) eine Ölphase.

It was surprising and unforeseeable for a person skilled in the art that the objects on which the invention is based are solved by cosmetic or dermatological emulsions comprising

1. a) a content of spherical silica particles coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxides,
2. b) one or more W / O emulsifiers from the group Abil EM 90, Abil EM 180 (Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone), Abil EM 120 (bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl Lauryl Dimethicone (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides) from Evonik and ES-5600 (cetyl diglyceryl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl dimethicone) from Dow Corning,
3. c) an aqueous phase,
4. d) an oil phase.

• - durch Puderrohstoffe stabilisiert werden,
• - besser als feuchtigkeitsspendende Zubereitungen wirken,
• - einfacher zu formulieren sein,
• - besser die Hautglättung fördern,
• - sich durch besser Pflegewirkung auszeichnen,
• - besser als Vehikel für kosmetische und dermatologische Wirkstoffe dienen,
• - bessere sensorische Eigenschaften, wie beispielsweise die Verteilbarkeit auf der Haut oder das Einzugsvermögen in die Haut, aufweisen würden,
• - besser als Vehikel für organische UV-Filter geeignet sind,
• - höhere Stabilität gegenüber Zerfall in Öl- und Wasserphasen aufweisen und
• - sich durch bessere Bioverträglichkeit auszeichnen würden,
• - die Herstellung von stabilen, insbesondere dünnflüssigen Formulierungen ermöglichen

als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik.It was not to be expected that the pigment-containing emulsions according to the invention

• - stabilized by powder raw materials,
• - work better than moisturizing preparations,
• - be easier to phrase
• - better promote skin smoothing,
• - are characterized by better care,
• - better serve as a vehicle for cosmetic and dermatological agents,
• - would have better sensory properties, such as skin dispersibility or ability to penetrate the skin,
• - better suited as a vehicle for organic UV filters,
• have higher stability to decomposition in oil and water phases and
• - would be characterized by better biocompatibility,
• - Allow the production of stable, especially low-viscosity formulations

as the preparations of the prior art.

The preparations according to the invention are free-flowing, but also formulated like creams, have very good cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to stickiness, and have very good skin compatibility and skin care performance.

According to the invention, it is possible and advantageous to freely choose the proportion of the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention in the range from 3 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Particularly advantageous spherical silica particles coated with titania and iron oxides are "soft-focus pigments" derived from spherical silica particles coated with titania and iron oxides. Such products are available, for example, under the name "RonaFlair® Flawless" from Merck.

Preferred representatives of these so-called "soft-focus pigments" or micropigments have a mean particle size of 4.0 to 8.0 microns and have the following typical composition: 74.0 to 85.0% silica (silica), 15.0 to 24.0% titanium dioxide and ≤ 2.0% iron oxides. Due to their composition and structure, dispersions of these micropigments show a slight pink intrinsic color.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably comprise from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, of one or more of the "soft focus" Pigments ", based on the total composition of the preparations.

According to the invention, as an example of W / O emulsifiers to be used in the context of the present invention, the Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone, which is sold by the company Evonik (formerly Th.Goldschmidt AG) under the trade name ABIL® EM 90 ,

A further example of W / O emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone, which is sold by the company Evonik (formerly Th.Goldschmidt AG) under the trade name ABIL® EM 180 ,

A further example of W / O emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl lauryl dimethicone (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride, which is available from Evonik (formerly Th.Goldschmidt AG) the product name ABIL® EM 120 is sold.

Furthermore, the W / O emulsifier cetyl diglyceryl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl dimethicone which has been sold under the trade name ES 5600 by the company Dow Corning Ltd. has proved to be particularly advantageous. is available.

The total amount of W / O emulsifiers used according to the invention in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously from the range from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0, 5 to 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The oil or lipid phase according to the invention may contain all oils, fats, waxes and / or lipids customary in cosmetic preparations.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention may advantageously comprise customary cosmetic auxiliaries, for example alcohols, in particular those of low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, phenoxyethanol, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, self-tanning agents, etc.

• - Wasser oder wässrige Lösungen,
• - wässrige ethanolische Lösungen,
• - natürliche Öle und/oder chemisch modifizierte natürliche Öle und/oder synthetische Öle,
• - Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren; dreidimensional vernetzte Organopolysiloxane wie zum Beispiel Siloxanelastomere,
• - Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.

As basic components of the preparations according to the invention can be used:

• - water or aqueous solutions,
• aqueous ethanolic solutions,
• - natural oils and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetic oils,
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. With isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids; three-dimensionally crosslinked organopolysiloxanes such as siloxane elastomers,
• Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products.

In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.

The oil phase of the emulsions according to the present invention consists, according to the invention, at least in part of silicone oils.

It is preferred to select the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicones, which are also referred to as "silicone oils" within the scope of the present disclosure. Such silicones or silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are typically characterized by structural elements, as follows:

wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R1-R4 dargestellt sind (will sagen, dass die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist). m kann dabei Werte von 2 bis 200.000 annehmen.Linear silicones having a plurality of siloxy units which are advantageously used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R1-R4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). m can assume values of 2 to 200,000.

Dimethicone is advantageously chosen as silicone oil. Other silicone oils, for example cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), phenyldimethicone, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone, are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.

Also advantageous are mixtures of dimethicone and isodecyl neopentanoates.

However, it is possible to accept without major disadvantages to choose oil components from the group of other oil components. These can then be advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be advantageously selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, Coco-caprylate / caprate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be selected, in some cases, advantageously from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated , branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12- 18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, for. B. Caprylic Capric triglyceride, olive oil, coconut oil, rapeseed oil, palm kernel oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, almond oil and the like.

Fat and / or wax components which can advantageously be used according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes. Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, rice germ oil wax, berry wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, lanolin (wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), paraffin waxes and microwaxes.

According to the invention, the fat and / or wax components can be present both individually and in a mixture.

Blends of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

Advantageously, the oil components are selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether and, in particular, cetarylisononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isohexadecane, isododecane; C _15-19 alkane or polydecene advantageous to use in the context of the present invention.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains siloxane elastomers.

The silicone elastomers according to the invention are crosslinked, optionally substituted organopolysiloxanes which have swollen in a suitable carrier medium. The crosslinking may have been carried out by means of all common methods and crosslinkers. Carrier media may, for. As cyclic or linear silicones and organic lipids. Suitable commercially available Silikonelastomergele z. KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330, KSG-340, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44, KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830, KSG-840 from Shin Etsu, Velvesil DM, Velvesil 125, Velvesil Plus, or other Velvesil gel types or Silsoft silicone gels from Momentive, or EL-8040 ID , EL-8050 ID, EL-8051 IN, EL-8052, 9040, 9041, 9045, or EL-9140 DM from Dow Corning.

It has been found that a satisfactory stabilization and viscosity can be achieved, in particular in combination with at least one further, particulate substance. Particular preference is given here to particulate substances based on silicon, in particular silicates, silicones and modified silicones or silicone-hybrid polymers.

Suitable particulate substances are, for. B. silica-based particles such. For example, Aerosil grades from Evonik, or VM-2270 Airgel Fine Particles from Dow Corning, silicone based particles such as 9506 Powder, 9701 Cosmetic Powder, EP-9215 Cosmetic Powder, EP-9261 Ti Cosmetic Powder, EP-9289 EP Cosmetic Powder or EP-9289 AL Cosmetic Powder from Dow Corning, KMP-590, KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-105 or KSP-300 from Shin Etsu, or Velvesil FX or other Velvesil types from Momentive. An example of a silicone-hybrid polymer particle is the recently presented experimental KR 1891 from Evonik, which is a silicone methacrylate.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained when antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. As favorable, but nevertheless optional to use antioxidants, all for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or conventional antioxidants can be used.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of (metal) chelators, α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid), EDTA, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), Folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and its derivatives (in particular ubiquinone Q10), vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Na ascorbyl phosphate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (Vitamin A palmitate), plant polyphenols, isoflavones, genistein, genistin, α-glycosylrutin.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants can be used, such as vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) and its derivatives as well as vitamin A (retinol) and its derivatives.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives or analogues are the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous if their respective concentrations are in the range from 0.001 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, where preferred active ingredients are antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative, photochemical and / or radical stress.

Inventive formulations which z. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin lesions as z. Skin aging (such as dryness, roughness, dryness wrinkles, itching, decreased refatting (e.g., after washing), visible vascular dilations (telangiectasia, cuperosis), slackness and wrinkle and wrinkle formation, localized hypersensitivity). , Hypo and false pigmentation (eg, age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg, cracking), and the like). Furthermore, they are advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

Preparations in the context of the present invention may preferably contain at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broad-spectrum filter substance. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl Salicylates) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate).

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the trademark Parsol® 1789 and sold by Merck under the tradename Eusolex® 9020.

• • Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist,
• • 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethyl-ene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich.
• • Vorteilhafte UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner sogenannte Breitbandfilter, d. h. Filtersubstanzen, die sowohl UV-A- als auch UV-B-Strahlung absorbieren.
• • Vorteilhafte Breitbandfilter oder UV-B-Filtersubstanzen sind beispielsweise Triazinderivate, wie z. B.
• • 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Aniso Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist,
• • Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist;
• • 4,4',4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung U-VINUL® T 150 vertrieben wird.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or its triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, from Trade name Eusolex 232 available from Merck or Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann & Reimer,
• 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethyl-ene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-) oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also known as benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher sulfonic acid (CAS. No. 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex.
• Advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, ie filter substances which absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
• Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B.
• 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: aniso triazine), which available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH,
• Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
• 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name U-VINUL® T 150.

An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.

Typical colorants which are suitable for use as cosmetic or dermatological compositions in the context of the present invention are lipophilic dyes (eg Sudan Red, DB & C Red 17, DB & C Green 6, β-carotene, Sudan Brown, DB & C Yellow 11, DB & C Violet 2, DB & C Orange 5 or Annatto), hydrophilic dyes, (eg beetroot juice or methylene blue) pigments, pearlescent pigments and blends of such colorants.

The pigments may be white or colored, goniochromatic or non-goniochromatic, inorganic and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Among the inorganic pigments which may be mentioned include titanium dioxide which is optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide (ZrO 2), zinc oxide (ZnO), iron oxide (eg Fe 2 O 3), silicon oxide (SiO 2), manganese (eg MnO). , Aluminum (Al 2 O 3), or ceria (eg, Ce 2 O 3), and iron oxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and iron blue

The pearlescent pigments may be exemplified by white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica especially iron blue or chromium oxide mica, titanium mica having an organic pigment of the type mentioned above and pearlescent pigments based on Bismuth oxychloride.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Advantageously, dispersants and / or solubilizers can be added to these predispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), in which case, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is to be formed or retained. This surface treatment may consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer by processes known per se. The various surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless indicated otherwise, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

To prepare the emulsions according to the invention, both the W / Si emulsifier and the W / O emulsifier are added to the oil phase. The components of the oil phase are blended together with a Blattrüher about five minutes at 400 U / min. The sodium chloride is dissolved in the water phase. Then the water phase is slowly added with stirring to the oil phase and then thoroughly mixed with a high-speed mixer (eg a magic stick ESGE).

To determine storage stability, all emulsion samples are stored in screw-retained 30 ml glasses at different temperatures: at room temperature (RT) (about 20 ° C), at +40 ° C and at +50 ° C and at a change temperature of -10 / + 40 ° C.

The stability was visually evaluated after 7 days, 14 days, 21 days (T) and 1 month (M). Example recipe / temperatures RT 40 ° C 50 ° C -10 / 40 ° C 1 - base with Abil EM 90 a. Without mineral pigments (MP) Stable Slightly unstable Unstable Slightly unstable from 20T b. With MP Stable Stable Stable Stable 2 - base with Abil EM 120 a. Without MP Stable Stable Stable Slightly unstable b. With MP Stable Stable Stable Stable 3 - Base with ES-5600 a. Without MP Stable Slightly unstable Unstable Slightly unstable 20T b. With MP Stable Stable Stable Stable 4 - base with polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate a. Without MP Unstable from 20T Unstable from 7T Unstable from 7T Unstable from 7T b. With MP Unstable from 7T Unstable from 7T Unstable from 7T Unstable from 7T 5 - Base with ES-5612 Formulation Aid a. Without MP Stable Unstable from 20T Unstable from 7T Slightly unstable b. With MP Slightly unstable Slightly unstable Slightly unstable from 20T Slightly unstable "Stable" means that no or only little phase separation, no or only little oil separation, no visually discernible inhomogeneity of the pigment distribution occurs. "Light instability" means that there is moderate, visible phase separation or clearly visible oil separation or visually discernible inhomogeneity. "Unstable" means fast, complete phase separation.

These experiments have shown that the W / O emulsions with Abil EM 90, Abil EM 120 from Evonik and ES-5600 from Dow Corning were best stabilized by the mineral pigments or extended to at least the long-term stability.

The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail. Unless otherwise indicated, the data is% by weight. Example formulations /% by weight 1a 1b 2a 2 B 3a 3b 4a 4b 5a 5b Abil® EM 90 1.5 1.5 Abil® EM 120 1.5 1.5 ES-5600 1.5 1.5 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 1.5 1.5 ES-5612 Formulation Aid 1.5 1.5 Isodecylneopentanoate 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Dimethicone 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 sodium chloride 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 glycerin 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 phenoxyethanol 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Mineral pigments [Silica + (Cl 77491, Cl 77891)] - Ronaflair® Flawless 5 5 5 5 5 water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Example recipe 6 Wt .-% Abil® EM 180 1.5 Isodecylneopentanoate 5 Dimethicone 10 sodium chloride 2 glycerin 9 phenoxyethanol 0.8 Mineral pigments [Silica + (Cl 77491, Cl 77891)] - Ronaflair® Flawless 5 water Ad 100 Example recipe 7 Wt .-% Abil® EM 120 1 Isodecylneopentanoate 5 Dimethicone 10 hectorites 0.5 Propylene carbonates 0.12 sodium chloride 2 glycerin 9 phenoxyethanol 0.8 Mineral pigments [Silica + (Cl 77491, Cl 77891)] - Ronaflair® Flawless 5 water Ad 100 Example recipe 8 Wt .-% Abil® EM 90 3 Isononylisononanoate 5 Dimethicone 5 Dimethicone / dimethicone crosspolymer 40 Ethanol denate. 4 sodium chloride 2 glycerin 6 phenoxyethanol 0.8 Mineral pigments [Silica + (Cl 77491, Cl 77891)] - Ronaflair® Flawless 3 water Ad 100 Example recipe 9 Wt .-% ES-5600 1.5 Cetearylisononanoate 8th Dimethicone 5 silica 3 tapioca 4 sodium chloride 1 glycerin 9 phenoxyethanol 0.8 Mineral pigments [Silica + (Cl 77491, Cl 77891)] - Ronaflair® Flawless 2 Color pigments (Cl 77891, Cl 77492, Cl 77491, Cl 77499, Cl 77007) 5 water Ad 100

Claims (4)

Cosmetic or dermatological emulsions comprising b) a content of spherical silica particles coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxides, c) one or more W / O emulsifiers from the group Abil EM 90, Abil EM 180 (Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone), Abil EM 120 (bis (glyceryl / lauryl) glyceryl Lauryl Dimethicone (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides) from Evonik and ES-5600 (cetyl diglyceryl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl dimethicone) from Dow Corning, d) an aqueous phase, e) an oil phase. Preparations after Claim 1 , characterized in that are selected as spherical silica particles, which are coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxides, those with a so-called "soft-focus pigments". Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they contain 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 10 wt .-% of one or more of the inventive "Soft -Focus pigments ", based on the total composition of the preparations. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of W / O emulsifiers used according to the invention from the range of 0.01 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-%, especially preferably 0.5 to 4 wt .-% selected, based on the total weight of the preparations is selected.