US2659890A - Golf jacket - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 24, 1953 J. F. REVOLTA 2,659,890

GOLF JACKET Filed April 17. 1951 Patented Nov. 24, 1953 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE GOLF JACKET Johnny F. Revolta, Evanston, 111. Application April 17, 1951, Serial No. 221,383

3 Claims.

This invention relates to a unique garment construction, so designed as to afford unusual freedom of action of the arms and upper body, and consequently particularly well suited to garments such as golf jackets, sport clothing or the like. The invention has specific reference to the provision of an improved shoulder and sleeve construction whereby the freedom of movement of the arms of the wearer is not unduly restricted, even when the jacket is worn over heavy sweaters or other clothing having considerable thickness and bulk.

The primary object of the invention is to provide a shoulder and sleeve construction affording unrestricted arm and shoulder movement, yet accomplishing this aim without undue fullness, looseness, or bulkiness.

A further object is to provide a garment permitting such freedom of movement, yet so designed as to be comfortable to the wear at all times, irrespective of whether worn over light or heavy clothing, and to be so styled as to present a neat, trim, and attractive appearance.

In the present disclosure, these objects are accomplished by the combination of a shoulder construction consisting of a back section having an armhole edge extending rearwardly and upwardly from the side seam of the garment, and across the center of the shoulder, and united to a front section extending forwardly, downwardly and inwardly to the side seam of the garment, with a unique sleeve construction having a convexly curved edge across the top center Of the shoulder terminating in inwardly extending bias curves adjoining the edges of the armholes, and downwardly extending bias curved edges uniting to form a bottom seam, and meeting the side seam of the garment. With such construction, the shape of the coacting parts of the sleeve and shoulder are such as to largely avoid any tensioning of the fabric, yet the patterns of the several component parts of the sleeve and shoulder are also so designed such that any minor strains that may be imposed on the garment by movements of the wearer's arm and shoulder are imposed in zones of bias weave, where the material may yield sufficiently to relieve the stress without impeding the movements of the wearer.

The preferred embodiment of this invention is illustrated in the drawings herein, wherein:

Figure l is a perspective view of a golfer wearing a garment as contemplated by the present specification;

Figure 2 is a fragmental plan view of the shoulder portion of the jacket;

Figure 3 is a plan view of the jacket sleeve as employed herein;

Figure 4 is a fragmental plan view of the juncture of the underarm seams of the jacket; and

Figure 5 is a plan view similar to Figure 4, illustrating the functioning of the bias seam construction as the arm of the wearer is extended.

The jacket illustrated herein comprises the back portion 6 joined to two similar and opposite front portions I by side seams A on either side of the jacket and by a pair of shoulder seams B uniting the upper edges 6b of the back portion 6 with the upper edges lb of the front portions 1 (Figure 2). The armholes of the jacket are thus formed by the curved edge 6e of the back portion 6, and the curved edge leof the front portion 1.

The sleeve as here illustrated is formed of the sections 8 and 9 united by a back seam C. The seam C is formed between the edge of the sleeve section 8, and the edge of the sleeve portion 9 which, as shown in Figure 3, are cut parallel with the direction of the longitudinal threads of the fabric. The other edges 8d and 9d 1 of the sleeve portions 8 and 9 are cut in outwardly curved diverging directions and at a bias to the direction of threads of the fabric, as also shown in Figure 3. These edges 8d and 9d are joined to form a lower sleeve seam D which extends into the side seam A and meets in a common junction with the front sleeve hole edge is and rear sleeve hole edge lie to form the armhole seam E (Figures 1, 4 and 5).

The inner end of the sleeve 8-9 is cut in the form of a smooth, generally symmetrical, compound curve 9e, consisting of an arcuately curved portion l0 across the top center line So of the sleeve, with one end of the arc l0 ending at the edge So on the rear portion of the sleeve, and the other end of the are continuing into a reversely curved, arcuate edge ll extending inwardly from the sleeve and in a direction bias of the threads of the fabric and terminating at the point I2, spaced inwardly substantially beyond the top center l3 of the sleeve. The intersection of the bias lower edge 9d and the bias portion ll of the irmer arm edge 9e thus form an underarm portion l'4 bounded by bias seams on each of its sides. In this portion of the garment, the weave of the fabric is diagonal to the direction of possible strain, so that, if any strain is imposed thereon, it is free to yield as indicated in Figure 5.

When the two sections are joined at the back seam C, the blank has a roughly trapezoidal form,

3 as is evident from Figure 3.' The compound curve, together with the outwardly tapered edges, forms two rather sharp corner points or peaks as at l2 and it Where both lines of cutting are on a bias.

The inner edge 8e of the portion 8 of the sleeve is of curvature opposite to but generally symmetrical to the curvature of the lower forward portion, an d includes a correspondingly curved, inwardly =extending,"arcuate edge 5 intersecting the bias lower "seam edge 8'd'at a "point inwardly of the top center l3 of the sleeve. Thus, the lower rear sleeve portion 8 also has an underarm portion I! of diagonal weave and bounded,

by bias seams on each side, and substantially identical with but opposite to the portions'l' lof the sleeve section 9.

It will be seen from Figure What the edge 6e which forms the sleeve opening on the backportion 6 of the jacket is substantially longer than the edge 1 e which forms the front portion thereof, so that when the edgesfib and lb are united into the shoulder seam the seam will assume a position slightly forward of the top center of the-sleeve, where it will intersect with the inner 'ourvededge 9c of thesleeve section 9 at about the pointiib. The front portion 9 of the sleeve will then be joined to the front portion 1 of the jacket around the edge le to the .side seam A, while the upperrear portion of the sleeve section 9 will extend rearwardly and downwardly along the edge fie of the back of the jacket to the point '60. Similarly, the lower rear portion 8 of the sleeve will be joined to the armhole edge 6e of the back 9 of the-jacketfrom the point 90 to the side-seam A.

The applicant has found that the sleeve and shoulder construction disclosed herein provides greater-freedom of movement of the arm than is possible with garments of conventional design, and at the same time avoids bulkiness and unnecessary looseness. This is particularly true when the garment is worn over sweaters or other clothing having considerable bulk, yet the construction shown herein achieves these desirable results. without sacrifice of comfort or appearance. This, it appears, is brought about by the unique sleeve construction here disclosed which,

together with the shoulder construction, is effective to eliminate, to arlarge extent at least, all

stresses and strains incident to normal vigorous athletic movements, and to dissipate such strains as may be imposed on thegarment -by the provision of portions of diagonal weave at the points of possible stress, so that the material mayyield sufficiently to completely avoid any possibility of binding or other interference with the movements of the wearer.

*Having thus described the invention, I claim:

1. In a sleeved'garment' having front and back panels each having an edge defining a portion of an armhole, said panels having side edges and top edges to be joined by side seams and shoulder seams respectively, the edges of the back panel forming part of the armhole being materially longer than the edge of the front panel at the armhole, so that when sa id panels are joined, the

shoulder seam is located forwardly of the upper eenter of the armhole, a sleeve formed of two sections joined by one seam substantially paral- 1a to the warp threads to form a panel roughly "*trapezoidal in shape with upwardly and outwardly,i nclined side edges and a relatively flat compound "curve for the upper edge, which has a convex portion near its midpoint and curves upwardly at each outer corner to a sharp peak, said side edges and upwardly extending curves being bias cut with respect to the warp and weft, another seam joining said outer edges of said sleeve panel thereby forming a sleeve, said sleeve being attached to the armhole edge so that-the secondmentioned sleeveseam formsa substantial continuation of the side seam thereby locating the peak portions at the armpit region and the firstmentioned sleeve .seam being at the back substantially midway of the arc of said-back-ar-mhole edge, the-location of the peaks causingthe bias cut armpit portions of the blank to havegreater flexibility without bulkin-ess.

2. The subject matter of claim 1 wherein the radius of curvature of the back armhole edge is greater than that of the front armhole edge.

3. The subject matter of claim 2 wherein the center point of the compound curve is substantially tangent to the weft threads and in which there are two low portions, onecon either side of the center portion, which are also substantially tangent to the weft threads.

JOHNNY F. REVOLTA.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,623,781 vDalkner Apr. 5, 1927 1,900,391 Slanger Mar. 7, 1933 2,309,037 Berman Jan. 19, 1943 2,386,768 Ayoub Oct. 16, 1945 2-,39l,54il Freedman Feb; 12, 1946 2,554,940 Clyne May 29, 1951 2,583,089 Clyne Jan. 22, 1952

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