TW201910579A - Knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

A knit fabric comprising a circular knit formed from nylon fibers and spandex fibers. The distance between adjacent loops in a horizontal direction of the knit fabric is 100-400[mu]m. The distance between the nylon fibers and the spandex fibers on the same loop in a thickness direction of the knit fabric is 20-90[mu]m. The knit fabric is highly flexible, soft, smooth, and form fitting.

Description

   Knitted fabric   

The invention relates to a knitted fabric. In particular, the invention relates to a knitted fabric having both soft, smooth and waxy feeling, and is particularly suitable for underwear use.

Although the clothing industry has grown quite mature today, people's pursuit of multifunctional clothing has never stopped. For example, the underwear worn for the body has been pursuing concealment to softness, smoothness (smoothness), and waxy feeling. The slippery feeling is an important indicator for measuring the roughness of the surface of the fabric. Generally speaking, the smaller the distance between adjacent coils, the closer the coils are arranged, the smaller the surface roughness of the fabric, and the better the slippery feeling. Waxy feeling is an important indicator to measure whether the fabric has skin-like touch. The compression elasticity (compression specific work) in the thickness direction of the fabric is used as a criterion. The better the compression elasticity, the stronger the waxy feeling.

At present, a variety of underwear fabrics have appeared on the market. For example, a fine-pitch high-grade knitting elastic fabric disclosed in Chinese patent document CN202626493U. By using a fine-pitch knitting machine and combining flat-stitch yarn adding structure, a fabric with a dense effect and a smooth feel is obtained. The holding amount is small, and the weaving speed of the fine-pitch weaving machine is relatively low, and the production cost is high. In addition, the stitches obtained by fine-pitch weaving are tighter, and the space between the veil and the ground yarn (spandex) is small, resulting in fabrics. The compression elasticity in the thickness direction is too small, and it is difficult to obtain a waxy feeling.

For another example, Chinese patent document CN103668691A discloses a kind of underwear fabric. The veil is made of milk protein fiber and modal fiber blended yarn, and the ground yarn is made of nylon / spandex covering yarn. It is woven by adding plain yarn to the tissue. Hygroscopicity, shape retention and elasticity, but because the blended yarn is a short-fiber yarn with a certain twist, the surface of the yarn is not smooth enough, so that the slippery feeling of the fabric is greatly reduced, and the fineness of the covering yarn used as the ground yarn Larger makes the distance between adjacent coils larger, which further reduces the slippery feeling of the fabric; in addition, the use of covering yarn also greatly reduces the distance between nylon fibers and spandex, making it difficult to obtain a waxy feel.

In addition, there are many researches on high-shrinkage nylon fibers. For example, a nylon fiber disclosed in Chinese patent document CN106480531A is obtained by individual slicing containing specific structural units. It has the characteristics of high boiling water shrinkage and is suitable for developing tightness, Surface fluffy fabric. However, there is no record of developing a waxy fabric using high shrinkage nylon.

In view of the above problems, an object of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric which not only has good elasticity, softness and smoothness, but also has a strong waxy feel.

The technical solution of the invention:

The knitted fabric of the present invention is a circular knitted fabric formed of nylon fibers and spandex fibers; in the transverse direction of the fabric, the distance between adjacent coils is 100-400 μm; and in the thickness direction of the fabric, nylon fibers and spandex fibers in the same coil The distance between them is 20 ~ 90μm.

In the present invention, the spandex fiber is used for blending to give the fabric excellent elasticity. In addition, by controlling the arrangement of the coils, the fabric has both softness and smoothness; and in the thickness direction of the fabric, the nylon fiber is reasonably controlled The distance from the spandex fiber makes the fabric not only have a waxy feel (skin-like touch), but also has strong resistance to hooking. The invention has low production cost and high mass productivity.

1‧‧‧ nylon fiber

2‧‧‧ spandex fiber

a‧‧‧Straight

b‧‧‧Straight

h‧‧‧distance

L‧‧‧ Distance

x‧‧‧ vertical line

y‧‧‧ vertical line

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a surface of a knitted fabric of the present invention, where L is a pitch of stitches between two adjacent stitches.

FIG. 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view of a knitted fabric of the present invention. 1 is nylon fiber; 2 is spandex fiber; a is a straight line parallel to the longitudinal direction of the sample and tangent to the highest point of the lower side of the loop formed by the single fiber (the highest point can be observed) on the lowest side of the nylon fiber bundle; b is a parallel line a and a line tangent to the uppermost point of the spandex fiber (the highest point can be observed); h is the distance between the line a and the line b, that is, the distance between the nylon fiber and the spandex fiber in the same coil .

In order to give the fabric good hygroscopicity, softness and certain strength, the present invention uses nylon fibers; and in order to give the fabric good elasticity, the present invention considers using elastic fibers for blending; due to polybutylene terephthalate Polyester (PBT), polybutylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate (PBT / PET) and other elastic fibers are much weaker than spandex fibers, and most of these fibers are polyester, When mixing with nylon fibers, problems such as uneven dyeing tend to occur. Therefore, the present invention uses spandex as the elastic fibers for mixing and knitting.

In the present invention, when the distance between adjacent coils is less than 100 μm, although the surface roughness of the fabric is small and the slippery feel is good, because the coils are arranged too tightly, the bending rigidity of the fabric is large, and the softness of the fabric is poor; and When the distance between adjacent coils is greater than 400 μm, although the softness of the fabric is improved, the arrangement of the coils is too loose, and the smoothness of the fabric is poor. Therefore, in the present invention, in order to balance the softness and smoothness of the dough, it is considered to set the distance between adjacent coils to 100 to 400 m, preferably 200 to 300 m.

When the distance between nylon fiber and spandex fiber in the same coil is less than 20 μm, the compression ratio of the fabric is too small, and the waxy feel is insufficient; and if the distance is increased, the waxy feel of the fabric will also increase, but the distance between the two When the distance is more than 90μm, although the fabric has a very good waxy feel, the anti-hook resistance is poor. Therefore, in the present invention, in order to balance the waxy feeling and the resistance to hooking, in the thickness direction of the fabric, the distance between the nylon fiber and the spandex fiber in the same coil is set to be 20 to 90 μm, and preferably 30 to 60 μm.

In general, the finer the fineness of the yarn used, the softer the fabric. In the present invention, when the fineness of the nylon fiber used is less than 11 dtex, the texture of the fabric is light and has excellent flexibility, but at the same time, because the fineness is too thin, the distance between adjacent coils becomes larger under the same conditions, and the surface roughness of the fabric increases. The slippery feeling tends to decrease; when the fineness of the nylon fiber used is greater than 44 dtex, the coils are arranged tightly, and the slippery feeling tends to increase, but at the same time, there may be problems of reduced flexibility and increased weight. Therefore, the fineness of the nylon fiber used in the present invention is preferably 11 to 44 dtex, and more preferably 22 to 33 dtex. In addition, the smaller the monofilament fineness of the nylon fiber, the better the softness of the fabric. However, when the monofilament fineness is less than 0.5 dtex, the problem of the fabric runway due to the broken filament of the monofilament may occur during weaving. The monofilament fineness of the nylon fiber is preferably 0.5 to 2.0 dtex.

In the present invention, the form of the nylon fiber to be used is not particularly limited, and may be a fully drawn yarn FDY or a false twisted yarn DTY. Considering that the surface of FDY is smooth and has low bulkiness, it can reduce the surface roughness of the fabric and improve the slippery feeling, so it is preferable.

In the present invention, in consideration of the boiling water shrinkage of the nylon fiber used being less than 15%, during the dyeing process, there may be a problem that the arrangement of the coils is too thin and the density is reduced due to insufficient shrinkage, which further affects the slippery feeling of the fabric; If the shrinkage of boiling water of nylon fiber is more than 50%, the coils may be arranged too tightly due to excessive shrinkage during the dyeing process, which will affect the softness of the fabric. The nylon fiber used in the present invention preferably has a boiling water shrinkage of 15 to 50%, and more preferably 20 to 50%. In terms of the waxy feel of the fabric, as the spontaneous elongation of the nylon fiber increases, the distance between the nylon fiber and the spandex fiber increases during the shaping process of the fabric, and the waxy feel of the fabric tends to increase. However, when the spontaneous elongation of nylon fiber is greater than 3.5%, the distance between nylon fiber and spandex fiber in the fabric is too large, and the nylon fiber is too fluffy after elongation, and the anti-hook performance of the fabric has a tendency to decrease; When the spontaneous elongation is less than 0.8%, the distance between the nylon fiber and the spandex fiber in the fabric decreases, and the waxy feeling of the fabric tends to weaken. Therefore, the spontaneous elongation of the nylon fiber used in the present invention is preferably 0.8 to 3.5%, and more preferably 1.0 to 3.0%.

In the present invention, the fineness of the spandex used is not particularly limited, but in terms of weaving passability and avoiding defects such as horizontal stripes, the preferred fineness is 11 to 44 dtex.

When the weight is too small, the requirements for weaving and finishing are relatively high, and the cost will increase accordingly. When the weight is too large, the fabric will be relatively heavy, which will affect the wearing comfort of underwear. Therefore, the basis weight of the preferred fabric in the present invention is 70 to 200 g / m ² .

The fabric of the present invention preferably has a bending stiffness of 0.0005 to 0.0023N. cm ² / cm, surface roughness is 1.000 ~ 3.000μ, compression specific work is 0.050 ~ 0.150N. cm / cm ² .

The test methods of the parameters involved in the present invention are as follows:

    (1) the distance between adjacent coils    

①Preparing a sample: Cut a flat sample of 20cm × 20cm in size from the fabric; ② Take a photo of the surface of the sample under a 250x lens of a digital microscope (manufactured by KEYENCE); ③ select any column coil, A vertical line x is made in the middle of the vertical coil, then an adjacent vertical coil is selected, and a vertical line y is made according to the same method, and the distance between the two vertical lines is measured. Take 10 sets of data according to the above method and calculate the average value, which is the distance L between adjacent coils in the lateral direction.

    (2) the distance between nylon fiber and spandex fiber    

①Preparing the sample: first cut a flat 5cm × 5cm sample cloth from the fabric, and then cut along any two rows of coils on the surface of the sample cloth to obtain a sample cloth with a length of 1cm × 0.5cm. The cut surface (ie, the observation surface) between the two rows of coils is plated with gold to prepare a sample of the cross-section. ② Use SUPERSCAN SS-550 (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation) to observe the cross-section at 150 times and cut the observation surface (cut open). Face) Adjusted to a state parallel to the screen of the SEM display, with the surface of the sample facing upwards, and then using the horizontal line of the SS-550 system to adjust the coil column of the sample to a horizontal state, take a photo of the sample section and save it; In the photo, randomly select a group of braided coils (containing nylon fibers and spandex fibers), a is parallel to the longitudinal direction of the sample coil and is formed by a single fiber with the lowest side of the nylon fiber bundle (the highest point can be observed). A straight line tangent to the highest point on the side; b is a straight line parallel to line a and tangent to the highest point on the upper side of the spandex fiber (the highest point can be observed). The distance between the straight line a and the straight line b is the distance h between the nylon fiber and the spandex fiber; ④ Repeat the above steps ① ~ ③, and then measure 4 sets of data; ⑤ Measure a total of 5 sets of data and calculate the average value as the nylon fiber of the present invention And spandex fibers.

    (3) Gram weight    

Three pieces of cloth samples with an area of 1 m ² were cut from the fabric and weighed separately, and the average value was calculated as the gram weight of the knitted fabric of the present invention.

    (4) Boiling water shrinkage of nylon fiber    

Take a 10-meter-long nylon fiber precursor as a sample, first place it in an environment with a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% for 12 hours, and a hanging load of 0.1 g / denier, and measure the length L _{1 of} the sample, followed by boiling water at 100 ° C. After being immersed for 30 minutes in the medium, it was placed in an environment with a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% for 12 hours. The hanging load was 0.1 g / denier, and the sample length L _{2 was} measured. The boiling water shrinkage was calculated according to the following formula. The boiling water shrinkage (%) = (L ₁ -L ₂ ) / L ₁ × 100%. Five samples were tested and the average was taken as the boiling water shrinkage of the nylon fiber of the present invention.

    (5) Spontaneous elongation of nylon fiber    

Take a 10-meter-long nylon fiber precursor as a sample, first place it in an environment with a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% for 12 hours, then treat it in a water bath at 80 ° C for 20 minutes, and then put it in an environment with a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65%. After 12 hours, the suspension load was 0.1 g / denier, and the sample length L _{1 was} measured. Then, it was left at 170 ° C for 1.5 minutes, and then placed in an environment with a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% for 12 hours. The suspension load was 0.1 g / denier, and the sample length L _{2 was} measured. The spontaneous elongation was calculated according to the following formula, and the spontaneous elongation (%) = (L ₁ -L ₂ ) / L ₁ × 100%. Five samples were tested and the average was taken as the spontaneous elongation of the nylon fiber of the present invention.

    (6) Bending stiffness    

According to the KES FB2 method.

    (7) Surface roughness    

According to the KES FB4 method.

    (8) Compression ratio work    

According to the KES FB3 method.

    (9) Anti-hook resistance    

The sensory evaluation was performed by 20 people, and it was divided into 4 grades of excellent, good, medium and poor according to the hooking of the fabric. Among them, the case where 10 or more people caused the thread to go wrong was poor, 5 to 9 were moderate, 2 to 4 were good, and less than 2 were excellent.

The present invention is further described below with reference to examples and comparative examples.

    [Example 1]    

On a 32G single-sided circular knitting machine, 55dtex-36f-nylon FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 33dtex spandex bare yarn (manufactured by Shanghai Invista) were used to knit with a plain needle structure to obtain a grey fabric. The grey cloth is subjected to pretreatment (refining agent 1g / l), dyeing (acid dyeing 1owf%, fixing agent 1owf%), finishing treatment (water-absorbing softener 10g / L, antistatic agent 10g / L), among which nylon FDY is used. The boiling water shrinkage was 16% and the spontaneous elongation was 0.8% to obtain a knitted fabric. The properties of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

    [Example 2]    

55dtex-36f-nylon FDY was replaced with 44dtex-30f-nylon FDY. The rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The properties of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

    [Example 3]    

55dtex-36f-nylon FDY was replaced with 33dtex-22f-nylon FDY. The rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The properties of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

    [Example 4]    

On the 36G single-sided circular knitting machine, 22dtex-15f-nylon FDY (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 22dtex spandex bare yarn (made by Shanghai Invista) were used. The boiling water shrinkage of the nylon FDY was 30. %, Spontaneous elongation is 1.0%, and the rest are the same as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The properties of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

    [Example 5]    

22dtex-15f-nylon FDY was replaced with 22dtex-24f-nylon FDY. The rest was the same as in Example 4 to obtain a knitted fabric. The properties of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

    [Example 6]    

Replace 22dtex-24f-nylon FDY (boiling water shrinkage 30%, spontaneous elongation 1.0%) with 22dtex-24f-nylon FDY (boiling water shrinkage 42%, spontaneous elongation 1.0%), the rest are the same as in the examples 5. Get a knitted fabric. The properties of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

    [Example 7]    

22dtex-24f-nylon FDY (boiling water shrinkage 30%, spontaneous elongation 1.0%) was replaced with 22dtex-24f-nylon FDY (boiling water shrinkage 42%, spontaneous elongation 3.0%), the rest are the same as in the examples 5. Get a knitted fabric. The properties of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

    [Example 8]    

On the 42G single-sided circular knitting machine, 11dtex-11f-nylon FDY (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 12dtex spandex bare yarn (made by Qingdao Haifeng Zhiyuan Industry and Trade Co., Ltd.) are used, of which nylon FDY The boiling water shrinkage was 50% and the spontaneous elongation was 3.0%. The rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The properties of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

    [Implementation column 9]    

55 dtex-36f-nylon FDY with a monofilament fiber of 1.5 dtex was replaced with 55 dtex-144f-nylon FDY with a monofilament fineness of 0.4 dtex. The rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The properties of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

    [Implementation column 10]    

55dtex-36f-nylon FDY with a monofilament fiber of 1.5 dtex was replaced with 55dtex-24f-nylon FDY with a monofilament fineness of 2.3 dtex. The rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The properties of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

    [Implementation column 11]    

Replace 22dtex-24f-nylon FDY (boiling water shrinkage 42%, spontaneous elongation 3.0%) with 22dtex-24f-nylon FDY (boiling water shrinkage 42%, spontaneous elongation 3.5%), the rest are the same as in the examples 7. Get a knitted fabric. The properties of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

    [Comparative Example 1]    

55 dtex-36f-nylon FDY with a boiling water shrinkage of 16% and a spontaneous elongation of 0.8% was replaced by 55dtex-36f-nylon FDY with a boiling water shrinkage of 50% and a spontaneous elongation of 0.8%. The rest was the same as in Example 1. To get knitted fabrics. The properties of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

    [Comparative Example 2]    

Replace 22dtex-24f-nylon FDY with a boiling water shrinkage of 30% and spontaneous elongation of 1.0% with 22dtex-24f-nylon FDY with a boiling water shrinkage of 13% and spontaneous elongation of 1.0%. The rest is the same as in Example 5, Get knitted fabric. The properties of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

    [Comparative Example 3]    

Replace 22dtex-24f-nylon FDY with a boiling water shrinkage of 42% and spontaneous elongation of 1.0% with 22dtex-24f-nylon FDY with a boiling water shrinkage of 42% and spontaneous elongation of 0.4%. Get knitted fabric. The properties of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

    [Comparative Example 4]    

Replace 22dtex-24f-nylon FDY with 42% boiling water shrinkage and 3.5% spontaneous elongation with 22dtex-24f-nylon FDY with 42% boiling water shrinkage and 4.0% spontaneous elongation. The rest is the same as in Example 11, Get knitted fabric. The properties of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

According to Table 1,

(1) As can be seen from Example 2 and Example 1, under the same conditions, the fabric formed from nylon fibers with a total fineness of 44 dtex is compared with the fabric formed from nylon fibers with a total fineness of 55 dtex. The distance between the coils and the distance between nylon and spandex in the same coil are both greater than the latter, so the former is better than the latter in terms of softness and waxiness, and has a lower weight and light weight.

(2) It can be seen from Example 5 and Example 4 that under the same conditions, the fabric formed from nylon fibers with a monofilament fineness of 0.9 dtex and the fabric formed from nylon fibers with a monofilament fineness of 1.5 dtex, the former The softness is slightly better than the latter, but it is not as good as the latter. In addition, because the distance between the adjacent coils of the two and the distance between nylon and spandex in the same coil are equivalent, the waxy feeling and smoothness of the two are equivalent.

(3) As can be seen from Example 5 and Example 6, compared with the fabric formed of nylon fiber with a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 42%, the fabric formed of nylon fiber with a boiling water shrinkage of 30% The distance between the coils is greater than the latter, so the former is better than the latter, and the weight is lower, but the slippery feel is not as good as the latter.

(4) It can be seen from Example 6 and Example 7 that under the same conditions, the fabric formed of nylon fibers with spontaneous elongation of 1.0% compared with the fabric formed of nylon fibers with spontaneous elongation of 3.0%. The softness and smoothness of the former are comparable, but because the distance between the nylon fiber and the spandex in the same coil of the former is smaller than the latter, the waxy feeling of the former is weaker than the latter.

(5) As can be seen from Comparative Example 1 and Example 1, under the same conditions, the fabric formed from nylon fibers with a boiling water shrinkage of 50% is lower than the fabric formed from nylon fibers with a boiling water shrinkage of 16%. The distance between the adjacent coils of the former is much shorter than the latter, so the former has a smoother feel than the latter, but the softness is obviously inferior to the latter, and the weight is too large and relatively heavy; between the nylon fiber and the spandex in the same coil of the two The distances are the same, so the waxiness of both is the same.

(6) As can be seen from Comparative Example 2 and Example 5, under the same conditions, the fabric formed of nylon fiber with a boiling water shrinkage of 13% is lower than the fabric formed of nylon fiber with a boiling water shrinkage of 30%. The distance between adjacent coils of the former is much larger than that of the latter, so the slippery feeling of the former is obviously inferior to that of the latter, and the resistance to hooking is not as good as the latter.

(7) As can be seen from Comparative Example 3 and Example 6, under the same conditions, the fabric formed from nylon fibers with a spontaneous elongation of 0.4% compared with the fabric formed from nylon fibers with spontaneous elongation of 1.0%. In the former, the distance between nylon fiber and spandex in the same coil is much smaller than the latter. Therefore, although the softness, smoothness, and anti-hook resistance of the two are equivalent, the waxy feeling of the former is obviously inferior to the latter.

(8) As can be seen from Comparative Example 4 and Example 11, under the same conditions, the fabric formed from nylon fibers with a spontaneous elongation of 4.0% is compared with the fabric formed from nylon fibers with spontaneous elongation of 3.5%. The distance between the nylon fiber and the spandex in the former is greater than the latter, so although the former is better than the latter, the resistance to hooking is much lower than the latter.

Claims (4)

    A knitted fabric is characterized in that: the knitted fabric is a circular knitted fabric formed of nylon fibers and spandex fibers; and the distance between adjacent stitches in the lateral direction of the knitted fabric is 100-400 μm. In the thickness direction, the distance between the nylon fiber and the spandex fiber in the same coil is 20 to 90 μm.         For example, the knitted fabric of claim 1, wherein the fineness of the nylon fiber is 11 to 44 dtex and the fineness of the monofilament is 0.5 to 2.0 dtex.         The knitted fabric of claim 1 or 2, wherein the distance between adjacent stitches in the transverse direction of the knitted fabric is 200-300 μm; in the thickness direction of the knitted fabric, nylon fibers and spandex fibers in the same stitch The distance between them is 30 ~ 60μm.     The knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the knitted fabric has a weight of 70 to 200 g / m ² .