KR20240156977A - COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS of SOFT TEXTURE COMPRISING CERAMIDES - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having excellent formulation stability, which comprises ceramide, glyceryl stearate, and a polyglyceryl-based softener. When ceramide is included together with a polyglyceryl-based softener and glyceryl stearate, gelling due to ceramide does not occur even when a nonpolar oil or silicone oil that interferes with the dissolution of ceramide is mixed together, and the stability of ceramide is secured even when stored for a long period of time or at a low temperature. In addition, by additionally including myristyl myristate, the composition exhibits the effect of having high hardness and a soft texture.

Description

{COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS OF SOFT TEXTURE COMPRISING CERAMIDES}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having excellent formulation stability comprising ceramide, glyceryl stearate, and a polyglyceryl-based softening agent.

Ceramide is a component of the stratum corneum of the skin, and is important for maintaining moisture in the skin, so it has been widely used in cosmetics since long ago. Despite these advantages, ceramide is difficult to formulate due to its poor solubility in both water and oil phases, and even if a formulation is implemented, it is difficult to apply a large amount in a product because gelation occurs over time due to its high recrystallization. In order to solve this problem and include a large amount of ceramide in cosmetics, there have been attempts to mix a large amount of ceramide with highly polar oils, lecithin, fatty alcohols, or waxes. However, these attempts have the problem that they do not meet the tastes of consumers who want a light and refreshing emotional quality due to the heavy and stuffy texture or stiff feeling resulting from the high hardness.

Therefore, there is a need for the development of a cosmetic composition that can prevent recrystallization of ceramides while providing a feeling of use that suits consumers' preferences.

Accordingly, the inventors of the present invention sought to develop a stable cosmetic composition containing ceramide having the above-described problems, and to this end, developed a cosmetic formulation based on a polyglyceryl-based softener.

After the efforts as mentioned above, it was confirmed that gelling due to ceramide does not occur even when nonpolar oil or silicone oil that interferes with the dissolution of ceramide is mixed together with ceramide, when ceramide is included together with a polyglyceryl-based softener and glyceryl stearate, and that the stability of ceramide is secured even when stored for a long period of time or at a low temperature, and that it can have a high hardness and a soft texture by additionally including myristyl myristate, thereby completing the present invention.

To achieve the above purpose, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising ceramide, glyceryl stearate and a polyglyceryl-based softening agent.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention exhibits the effect of securing the long-term storage stability of ceramide by including ceramide together with a polyglyceryl-based softener and glyceryl stearate. Specifically, it was confirmed that the ceramide did not gel or precipitate even when stored at room temperature or high temperature. In addition, it was confirmed that it can have a high hardness and soft texture by additionally including myristyl myristate.

Figure 1 is a photograph of the appearance of the formulation of the present invention depending on the presence or absence of a polyglyceryl-based softener.
Figure 2 is a polarizing microscope image according to the presence or absence of a polyglyceryl-based softening agent in the formulation of the present invention.
Figure 3 is a graph confirming the change in particle size depending on the presence or absence of a polyglyceryl-based softener in the formulation of the present invention.
Figure 4 is a DSC (differential scanning calorimetry) measurement graph according to the presence or absence of a polyglyceryl-based softening agent in the formulation of the present invention.
Figure 5 is a polarizing microscope image according to the type of polyglyceryl-based softening agent in the formulation of the present invention.

The present invention is described in detail below.

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising ceramide, glyceryl stearate and a polyglyceryl-based softening agent.

It was confirmed that gelation due to ceramide did not occur even when nonpolar oil or silicone oil, which interferes with the dissolution of ceramide, was mixed together with ceramide, a polyglyceryl-based softener and glyceryl stearate, and that the stability of ceramide was secured even when stored for a long time or at a low temperature. In addition, it was confirmed that it could have a high hardness and a soft texture by additionally including myristyl myristate.

In the present invention, ceramide can be selected from the group consisting of ceramide NP, ceramide EOP, and ceramide AP, and most preferably ceramide NP.

The "ceramide" of the present invention is a type of sphingolipid and is a molecule composed of sphingosine and fatty acid. Ceramide exists in large quantities in cell membranes and is involved in various cell signaling such as cell differentiation, growth, and apoptosis. Ceramide NP is a synthetic N-acylated sphingolipid in which a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid is bonded to phytosphingosine having a D-erythro structure, and ceramide EOP is an N-acylated sphingolipid containing phytosphingosine having a D-erythro structure bonded to an ω-hydroxyside esterified with a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid. Ceramide AP is an N-acylated sphingolipid containing phytosphingosine having a D-erythro structure bonded to an α-hydroxy saturated or unsaturated fatty acid.

In the present invention, the ceramide may be present in an amount of 0.1 to 1 wt%, preferably 0.1 to 0.8 wt%, and more preferably 0.2 to 0.6 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Within the scope of the present invention, for a sufficient moisturizing effect, the content of ceramide is preferably 0.02 wt% or more, and more preferably 0.1 wt% or more. For good sensory quality, the content of ceramide is preferably 1 wt% or less.

In the present invention, glyceryl stearate may be included, or glyceryl stearate may be included together with an anionic surfactant. Preferably, glyceryl stearate may be included together with potassium stearate or sodium stearate. More preferably, glyceryl stearate may be glyceryl stearate SE. By including glyceryl stearate SE, which is a mixture of glyceryl stearate and a stearate salt (e.g., potassium stearate or sodium stearate), the solubility of ceramide can be improved, and a composition which is stable from precipitation and separation can be prepared.

In the present invention, the polyglyceryl-based softener may contain 6 or more stearate groups or isostearate groups. Preferably, it is polyglyceryl-n decastearate or polyglyceryl-n decaisostearate, and n may be 5 or more. More preferably, the polyglyceryl-based softener may be polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate. Although polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate has no direct ceramide solubility, it has an affinity for ceramide and can be expected to have a steric hindrance effect of a bulky polyglyceryl group, and it was confirmed that when used in combination with glyceryl stearate SE and ceramide, it can prevent ceramide precipitation and realize synergistic long-term stability.

In the present invention, glyceryl stearate and polyglyceryl softening agent may be included in a mass ratio of 1:1.5 to 1:3, 1:1.7 to 1:2.5, or 1:2 to 1:2.3. When included in a cosmetic composition at the mass ratio, the effect of the present invention can be achieved.

In the present invention, the cosmetic composition may additionally contain myristyl myristate. Adding myristyl myristate to the composition of the present invention has the effect of increasing viscosity, and the viscosity thus increased shows a soft and smooth texture, unlike the viscosity generally formed by fatty alcohol or a thickening agent, and can create a texture suitable for a light moisturizing cream or a moisture cream.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may preferably contain 1 to 2 wt% of myristyl myristate based on the total weight of the entire cosmetic composition to achieve a hardness of 18 to 60 dyne/cm². The hardness can be measured with a commercially available rheometer such as Rheotech Fudoh Rheo Meter, and when using Rheotech Fudoh Rheo Meter, the measurement can be performed under the conditions of a dedicated adapter No. 9, 20Φ, descending mode, and a descending speed of 2 cm/min at 25°C.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain less than 3 wt% of fatty alcohol based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Preferably, it may contain less than 2 wt%, more preferably less than 1.5 wt%, and most preferably 0.5 to 1.5 wt%. A cosmetic composition using more than 4 wt% of fatty alcohol may have the problem of feeling heavy when used.

In the present invention, the cosmetic composition may have a formulation such as a lotion such as a facial lotion or a body lotion, a cream such as a nourishing cream, a moisturizing cream or an eye cream, an essence, a cosmetic ointment, a spray, a gel, a pack, a sunscreen, a makeup base, a foundation in a liquid type, a solid type or a spray type, a powder, etc.

In the present invention, the cosmetic composition may further contain, in addition to the above components, auxiliary agents and carriers commonly used in the field of cosmetics, such as fatty substances, organic solvents, solubilizers, thickening and gelling agents, emollients, antioxidants, suspending agents, stabilizers, foaming agents, fragrances, surfactants, water, ionic or nonionic emulsifiers, bulking agents, metal ion sequestering and chelating agents, preservatives, vitamins, blocking agents, humectants, essential oils, dyes, pigments, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, lipid vesicles or any other ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, within a range that does not reduce the effectiveness of the composition.

When the formulation of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a paste, cream or gel, animal oil, vegetable oil, wax, paraffin, starch, tragacanth, cellulose derivatives, polyethylene glycol, silicone, bentonite, silica, talc or zinc oxide may be used as a carrier component.

When the formulation of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a solution or emulsion, a solubilizer or an emulsifier is used as a carrier component, and examples thereof include water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, butanediol, glycerol aliphatic ester, PEG-8, polyethylene glycol, or sorbitan.

Each of the above-mentioned ingredients included in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be included in the cosmetic composition of the present invention within a range that preferably does not exceed the maximum usage amount specified in the regulations related to “cosmetic use/license” stipulated by the government of each country.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used by applying it alone or in duplicate, or by applying it in duplicate with another cosmetic composition other than the present invention. In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used according to a conventional method of use, and the number of times it is used can be varied depending on the skin condition or preference of the user.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail by the following examples. However, the following examples are only intended to illustrate the present invention, and the content of the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

The materials and reagents used in these examples and comparative examples are from cosmetic raw material manufacturers and commercial

It was purchased and used from a supplier, and the indicated content is based on weight %.

Experimental Example 1: Effect of the presence or absence of polyglyceryl softener in ceramide emulsion formulations

　 Ingredient name (weight%) Comparative Example 1 Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Example 2 1 Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 2 Carbomer 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 3 glycerin 10 10 10 10 4 1,2-Hexanediol 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 5 Trisodium EDTA 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 6 Tromethamine 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08 7 Dimethicone 1 1 1 1 8 Hydrogenated polydecene 6 6 6 6 9 Polyglyceryl-10
Decaisostearate - 2.7 - 2.7 10 Glyceryl Stearate SE - - 1.2 1.2 11 C14-22 Alcohol & C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside 1 1 1 1 12 Ceramide NP 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 　 total 100 100 100 100

Comparative Example 1, Comparative Example 2, Example 1, and Example 2 were manufactured using the following manufacturing method with the same composition as in Table 1 above.

Manufacturing method

1. Mix ingredient 2 with a small amount of water to make a gum paste.

2. Mix ingredients 1 and 3 to 6, heat to 74 to 76℃ to prepare a water solution

3. Mix ingredients 7 to 12 and heat to 76 to 80℃ to prepare oily solution.

4. Add the liquid to the water and mix with a homogeneous mixer.

5. Add the black ink to the mixture of 4 and mix with a homomixer.

Cool the result of method 5 to room temperature and then defoame

The appearance of the manufactured formulation is shown in Fig. 1, the polarizing microscope image is shown in Fig. 2, the particle size change confirmation graph is shown in Fig. 3, and the DSC (differential scanning calorimetry) measurement values are shown in Fig. 4.

Figure 1 is an appearance photograph according to the presence or absence of a polyglyceryl-based softening agent in the formulation of the present invention. (25°C is a sample stored at 25°C for 3 months, F/T (Freeze/Thawing) is a sample that was taken out of a frozen (-20°C) storage sample to room temperature and thawed five times, then stored at 25°C, and then taken out together with the 25°C sample, and the photographs of Comparative Example 1 and Example 1 on the right side of Figure 1 are the appearance of the cream when scooped out after 3 months of storage at 25°C.)

Figure 2 is a polarizing microscope image according to the presence or absence of a polyglyceryl-based softener in the formulation of the present invention. (Image of a sample stored at 25°C for 3 months)

Figure 3 is a graph confirming the change in particle size according to the presence or absence of a polyglyceryl-based softener in the formulation of the present invention. (25°C is a sample stored at 25°C for 3 months, 50°C is a sample stored at 50°C for 3 months, F/T is a sample that was frozen/thawed (Freeze/Thawing), and the process of taking the frozen (-20°C) stored sample out to room temperature and thawing it was repeated 5 times.)

Figure 4 is a DSC (differential scanning calorimetry) measurement graph according to the presence or absence of a polyglyceryl-based softener in the formulation of the present invention. (Sample stored at 25°C for 3 months)

Referring to Fig. 1, it can be confirmed that gelling significantly progresses in Comparative Example 1 by mixing hydrogenated polydecene (nonpolar oil) or dimethicone (silicone oil), which are components that inhibit the dissolution of ceramide, together with ceramide. When glyceryl stearate SE is mixed together as in Comparative Example 2, it can be confirmed that gelling is suppressed even when stored at room temperature for a long period of time, but when exposed to a low-temperature environment such as F/T, the stability is broken and gelling progresses again. On the other hand, when polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate is mixed together as in Example 1 or Example 2, it can be confirmed that gelling is sufficiently suppressed even when stored at room temperature for a long period of time or exposed to a low-temperature environment. Referring to Fig. 2, it can be observed from the polarizing microscope photographs that precipitation of ceramide is sufficiently suppressed in Examples 1 and 2. Looking at Fig. 3, it can be confirmed from the particle size change graph that the particle size of Example 2 is more uniform and changes less with temperature than that of Comparative Example 2. Looking at the DSC (differential scanning calorimetry) measurement values of Comparative Example 2 and Example 2 in Fig. 4, it can be confirmed that the peak above 70°C disappears and the peak around 45°C shifts to a lower temperature. From these results, it can be confirmed that a stable formulation can be achieved by including a polyglyceryl-based softener (Example 1) or a polyglyceryl-based softener and glyceryl stearate (Example 2) in a formulation containing ceramide.

Experimental Example 2: Effect of Polyglyceryl-Based Softener Types in Ceramide Emulsion Formulations

　 Ingredient name (weight%) Example 3 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 1 Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 2 Carbomer 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 3 glycerin 10 10 10 10 4 1,2-Hexanediol 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 5 Trisodium EDTA 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 6 Tromethamine 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08 7 Dimethicone 1 1 1 1 8 Hydrogenated polydecene 6 6 6 6 9 Polyglyceryl-10
Decaisostearate 2.7 - - - 10 Polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate - 2.7 - - 11 Polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate - - 2.7 - 12 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate - - - 2.7 13 Glyceryl Stearate SE 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 14 C14-22 Alcohol & C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside 1 1 1 1 15 Ceramide NP 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 16 Miristeel Miristate 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 　 total 100 100 100 100

With the same composition as in Table 2 above, Example 3 and Comparative Examples 3 to 5 were manufactured in the same manner as in Experimental Example 1, stored at 25°C for 4 weeks, and then observed using a polarizing microscope to see whether ceramide was precipitated. The observed image is shown in Fig. 5.

Figure 5 is a polarizing microscope image according to the type of polyglyceryl-based softener in the formulation of the present invention. As shown in Figure 5, it was confirmed that the effect of inhibiting precipitation of ceramide decreased as the number of alkyl groups of the polyglyceryl-based softener decreased, and from this, it was found that the degree of polymerization must also be above a certain level.

Experimental Example 3: Hardness Difference According to the Amount of Myristyl Myristate in Ceramide Emulsion Formulations

　 Ingredient name (weight%) Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 1 Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 2 Carbomer 0.1 0.1 0.1 3 glycerin 10 10 10 4 1,2-Hexanediol 1.5 1.5 1.5 5 Trisodium EDTA 0.02 0.02 0.02 6 Tromethamine 0.08 0.08 0.08 7 Dimethicone 1 1 1 8 Hydrogenated polydecene 6 6 6 9 Polyglyceryl-10
Decaisostearate 2 2 2 10 Glyceryl Stearate SE 1 1 1 11 C14-22 Alcohol & C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside 1 1 1 12 Ceramide NP 0.5 0.5 0.5 13 Miristeel Miristate - 1 2 　 total 100 100 100

Examples 4 to 6 were manufactured with the same composition as in Table 3 above and the manufacturing method as follows, and the hardness of the manufactured formulations was measured. The hardness was measured with a Rheotech Fudoh Rheo Meter, and the hardness values measured under the following conditions are shown in Table 4.

Manufacturing method

1. Mix ingredient 2 with a small amount of water to make a gum paste.

2. Mix ingredients 1 and 3 to 6, heat to 74 to 76℃ to prepare a water solution

3. Mix ingredients 7 to 13 and heat to 76 to 80℃ to prepare oily solution.

4. Add the liquid to the water and mix with a homogeneous mixer.

5. Add the black ink to the mixture of 4 and mix with a homomixer.

Cool the result of method 5 to room temperature and then defoame

Hardness measurement conditions: Rheotech Fudoh Rheo Meter, dedicated adapter No. 9, 20Φ, down mode, descent speed 2 cm/min, 25 mm depth, measured at 25℃

Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Hardness (dyne/cm²) 14 19 35

In order to increase the hardness of a cosmetic composition, there is a problem that the feeling of use becomes heavy when the content of fatty alcohol is increased as in the past. In the composition according to the present invention, which ensures the stability of ceramide, it can be confirmed that the hardness can be increased without lowering the feeling of use by further including myristyl myristate instead of increasing the content of fatty alcohol (Table 3 and Table 4).

These results show that the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be applied to containers (jar type) that require a certain level of hardness for use, and therefore, it is expected that the hardness can be appropriately adjusted as needed without affecting the feeling of use.

Experimental Example 4: Soft texture effect according to the presence or absence of polyglyceryl softener in ceramide emulsion formulation

　 Ingredient name (weight%) Example 3 Comparative Example 6 1 Purified water To 100 To 100 2 Carbomer 0.1 0.1 3 glycerin 10 10 4 1,2-Hexanediol 1.5 1.5 5 Trisodium EDTA 0.02 0.02 6 Tromethamine 0.08 0.08 7 Dimethicone 1 1 8 Hydrogenated polydecene 6 6 9 Polyglyceryl-10
Decaisostearate 2.7 - 10 Glyceryl Stearate SE 1.2 1.2 11 C14-22 Alcohol & C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside 1 1 12 Ceramide NP 0.5 0.5 13 Miristeel Miristate 1.9 1.9 　 total 100 100

Example 3 and Comparative Example 6 were manufactured using the same manufacturing method as Experimental Example 3 with the same composition as in Table 5 above. Then, the satisfaction with respect to hardness and usability was evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 6.

As shown in Table 6, there was little difference in hardness depending on the presence or absence of polyglyceryl-based softener (measurement conditions were the same as Experimental Example 3), but it was confirmed that the soft adhesion was further increased in terms of emotional quality (soft satisfaction).

Example 3 Example 7 Hardness (dyne/cm²) 55 53 Soft satisfaction (n=7) 4.29 4.08

Accordingly, it was confirmed that the cosmetic composition of the present invention achieved high formulation stability and high soft satisfaction by including ceramide, glyceryl stearate, a polyglyceryl-based softener, and additionally myristyl myristate.

Claims (9)

A cosmetic composition comprising ceramide, glyceryl stearate, and a polyglyceryl-based softening agent. In the first paragraph,
A cosmetic composition wherein the ceramide is selected from the group consisting of ceramide NP, ceramide EOP, and ceramide AP. In the first paragraph,
A cosmetic composition wherein the ceramide is present in an amount of 0.1 to 1 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In the first paragraph,
A cosmetic composition comprising the above glyceryl stearate together with potassium stearate or sodium stearate. In paragraph 1,
A cosmetic composition wherein the polyglyceryl-based softening agent is polyglyceryl-n decastearate or polyglyceryl-n decaisostearate, and n is 5 or more. In paragraph 1,
A cosmetic composition wherein the glyceryl stearate and polyglyceryl softener are present in a mass ratio of 1:1.5 to 1:3. In the first paragraph,
The above cosmetic composition is a cosmetic composition further comprising myristyl myristate. In paragraph 6,
The above cosmetic composition has a hardness of 18 to 60 dyne/cm² at 25°C when measured using a 20Φ pin of a dedicated adapter No. 9 of a RHEOMETER under conditions of a descending speed of 2 cm/min and a depth of 25 mm. In paragraph 1,
The above cosmetic composition is a cosmetic composition in the form of a lotion, cream, or gel.