KR20110036260A - Elastic cosmetic composition with low acid condition - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A cosmetic composition of weak acidity is provided to ensure elasticity and to preservation stability. CONSTITUTION: A method for preparing a cosmetic composition of weak acidity comprises: a step of preparing aqueous phase containing pectin and bivalent cation; a step of preparing oil phase containing fatty acid; and a step of mixing the aqueous phase and oil phase for obtain emulsion formulation. The oil phase further contain surfactant, perfume, and preservative.

Description

Slightly acidic cosmetic composition with elasticity {ELASTIC COSMETIC COMPOSITION WITH LOW ACID CONDITION}

The present invention relates to a weakly acidic cosmetic composition having elasticity, to a cosmetic composition capable of maintaining the elasticity of a product even in mildly acidic conditions similar to the surface of the skin and having an excellent usability.

Under normal circumstances, the skin surface maintains a weak acidity of about pH 4-6. The slightly acidic stratum corneum has antimicrobial activity against microorganisms and maintains homeostasis of the skin barrier. Therefore, the skin needs a slightly acidic cosmetic of similar pH to maintain a proper pH. In other words, the cosmetic industry requires an emulsification technique having an attractive usability and viscosity even under mildly acidic conditions. However, most synthetic thickeners have reduced and unstable thickening effects in mildly acidic conditions. Therefore, in the case of weakly acidic cosmetics, it is difficult to manufacture a cosmetic having stable viscosity with an existing thickener and a new system development is required.

Conventional techniques for preparing cosmetic compositions under mildly acidic conditions include methods of blending weakly acidic aqueous solutions or extracts, adding minerals or blending silicate clay minerals, and the like. However, this is a limitation that can be applied only to a lotion without viscosity.

Therefore, it is necessary to develop a viscous emulsion or cream formulation in a weakly acidic condition as well as a lotion without viscosity.

In addition, there have conventionally been studies using pectin in cosmetic compositions (see US Patent No. 6,615,503 and European Patent No. 0432835). However, simply applying pectin to the cosmetics can not prevent the completion of the phenomenon, there is a disadvantage that the formulation is not stable.

Therefore, the technical problem to be achieved by the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition such as lotion, essence, cream having a good viscosity and good feeling even in low pH conditions.

In order to achieve the above technical problem, the present invention includes a pectin, divalent cation and fatty acid, pH 2 to 6 when measured at 25 ℃ conditions with an acid (preferably pH meter (827 pH lab, METROHM, SWISS) Im), and provides a cosmetic composition, characterized in that the emulsion formulation.

The present invention is based on the surprising discovery that when used together with pectin, divalent cations and fatty acids, it can provide a mildly acidic cosmetic with moderate viscosity and elasticity, exhibiting suitable rheological properties even at low pH conditions.

Pectin is a straight chain polysaccharide linked by galactopyranosyl acid units with 1,4 bonds, and the carboxyl moiety is partially methoxylated. Depending on the degree of esterification of this carboxyl group, it is divided into high methoxyl pectin of 50% or more and low methoxyl pectin of 50% or less. The high methoxyl pectin forms a gel in the presence of an appropriate amount of sugars and acid, and the low methoxyl pectin forms a gel in the presence of divalent cations and acids capable of forming bridge bonds.

Therefore, the present inventors confirmed that the pectin formed a gel despite the low pH, and determined that these components could be included in the low pH emulsified formulation to prepare a viscous emulsion, cream formulation, and the like. In addition, it is thought that the crosslinking can be performed with fatty acids similarly to the formation process of pectin and divalent cations, and it will affect the stability of formulation with fatty acids in emulsion formulation.

Pectin used in the formation of a weakly acidic cosmetic composition with elasticity of the present invention may be used pectin type from a variety of plants, preferably pectin extracted from citrus fruits, apples, grapes, sugar cane, sunflower seeds, etc. Low methoxyl pectin, high methoxyl pectin, amidated low methoxyl pectin according to the structure, and the like.

Divalent cations are dissolved in the water used in the cosmetic composition formed of a weak acid having a resilience of the present invention and 2 can be used are salts that cations, preferably a salt of Ca ^{2 +} or Mg ^{2 +} alone or in combination Can be used. More specifically, for example, calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate or a mixture thereof is preferred, but is not limited thereto.

The fatty acid used for forming the elastic weakly acidic cosmetic composition of the present invention is a carboxylic acid of a hydrocarbon chain having one carboxyl group (-COOH), and all kinds of fatty acids may be used regardless of hydrocarbon chain length or unsaturation. Preferably, fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms are preferred. As such fatty acids, for example, behenic acid, arachidonic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid and the like may be used alone or in combination, but is not limited thereto.

The weakly acidic cosmetic composition having elasticity of the present invention preferably contains 0.1-5% by weight of pectin, 0.001-5% by weight of divalent cationic compound and 0.01-20% by weight of fatty acid, and the remaining components are purified water, Polyols, oils and the like.

Moreover, pH of the cosmetic composition of this invention is 4-7, Preferably it is 4-6, More preferably, it is 4.5-5.5.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention is prepared by dispersing pectin in purified water and then heating it to about 60 ° C. or higher, preferably about 70 ° C. to prepare a water phase by adding a divalent cation and a water-soluble raw material, and then preparing a fatty acid and an oil-soluble raw material and an interface. The active agent is heated to about 60 ° C. or higher, preferably about 70 ° C. or higher to prepare an oil phase, and the oil phase is mixed with an aqueous phase to prepare a method of stirring.

That is, the present invention provides a method for preparing a cosmetic having acidic, cosmetically useful viscosity and rheological properties, and having reduced diarrhea, comprising the steps of preparing an aqueous phase containing pectin and divalent cations; Preparing an oil phase containing a fatty acid; And mixing the aqueous phase and the oil phase to produce an emulsion formulation.

In the cosmetic composition and the production method of the present invention, the oil phase component may also contain poorly soluble substances such as oils, surfactants, fragrances, and preservatives.

Such oils include diisobutyl adipic acid, 2-hexyldecyl adipic acid, di-2-heptyl undecyl adipic acid, N-alkylglycol monoisostearate, isocetyl isostearic acid and trimethyl triisostearate Olpropane, di-2-ethylhexanoic acid ethylene glycol, 2-ethylhexanoic acid cetyl, tri-2-ethylhexanoic acid trimethylolpropane, tetra-2-ethylhexanoic acid pentaerythritol, octanoic acid cetyl, octyldodecyl gum Ester, oleic oleic acid, octyldodecyl oleate, decyl oleate, neopentylglycol dioctanoate, neopentylglycol diacetic acid, triethyl citrate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, amyl acetate, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, isocetyl stearate Butyl stearate, diisopropyl sebacate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, isononanoate isononyl, isononanoate isotridecyl, isopropyl palmitate, palmi 2-ethylhexyl acid, 2-hexyldecyl palmitic acid, 2-heptyl undecyl palmitic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid cholesteryl, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, myristic acid isopropyl, octylic acid octyl Dodecyl, myristic acid 2-hexyldecyl, myristic acid myristyl, dimethyloctanoic acid hexyldecyl, ethyl laurate, hexyl laurate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid 2-octyldodecyl ester, malic acid Ester synthetic oils such as diisostearyl; Dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, dimethylsiloxane / methylphenylsiloxane copolymer, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, tetramethyltetrahydrogencyclotetrasiloxane, tetramethyltetra Phenylcyclotetrasiloxane, gum dimethylpolysiloxane, gum dimethylsiloxane / methylphenylsiloxane copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate, trimethylsiloxysilicate, stearoxysilicone, higher fatty acid modified silicone, alkyl modified silicone, amino modified silicone, fluorine modified silicone, silicone Silicone oils such as melts of resins; avocado oil, linseed oil, almond oil, insect beetle, perilla oil, olive oil, cacao butter, kapok rapeseed, non-tree oil, carnauba rapeseed, cod liver oil, candelilla rapeseed, tallow, ooze, Ugolji, hardened beef tallow, apricot oil, sperm, hardened milk, wheat germ oil, Oil, rice germ oil, bran oil, sugarcane, camellia oil, safflower oil, shea butter, copper wood oil, cinnamon oil, jojoba barb, shellacrab, turtle oil, soybean oil, tea tree oil, camellia oil, evening primrose oil , Corn oil, lard, rapeseed oil, Japanese paulownia oil, rice hull, germ oil, horse paper, apricot oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, castor oil, hardened castor oil, castor oil fatty acid methyl ester, sunflower oil , Grapeseed oil, laurel fruit wax, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, beeswax, mink oil, cottonseed oil, cottonseed, wax, waxy kernel oil, montan wax, palm oil, hardened palm oil, palm oil fatty acid triglyceride, sunny, peanut oil, lanolin, liquid Lanolin, reduced lanolin, lanolin alcohol, hard lanolin, lanolin acetate, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, hexyl laurate, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol, POE Animal or vegetable oils such as cow lanolin alcohol ether, and egg yolk oil; And hydrocarbon oils such as ozokerite, squalane, squalene, ceresin, paraffin, paraffin wax, liquid paraffin, pristane, polyisobutylene, microcrystalline wax, petrolatum, and the like, may be used alone or in combination. It is not.

As surfactant, sorbitan fatty acid ester, glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, propylene glycol fatty acid ester, polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxypropylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene alkylphenyl ether , Polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene propylene glycol fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil , Polyoxyethylene phytostanol ether, polyoxyethylene phytosterol ether, polyoxyethylene cholestanol ether, polyoxyethylene cholesteryl ether, alkanol amide, sugar ether, sugar Amides and the like may be used alone or in combination, but is not limited thereto.

In the cosmetic or manufacturing method according to the present invention, the aqueous phase component may include, but is not limited to, purified water, a polyol, a preservative, a second thickener, and the like within the scope of not impairing the object of the present invention.

The polyol used in the water phase in the emulsion of the present invention is not limited, and may preferably be composed of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol and mixtures thereof. have.

The emulsions of the present invention may also include ingredients conventionally used in emulsion formulations within the scope of not impairing the object of the present invention in addition to the above ingredients, and may include conventional auxiliaries such as stabilizers, vitamins, pigments and the like. Can be.

Cosmetic composition using pectin, divalent cation and fatty acid according to the present invention is a cosmetic containing no pectin, cosmetic containing only pectin, pectin in terms of preservation stability, weak acidity similar to skin pH, prevention of diarrhea and elasticity It is superior to cosmetics containing only and divalent cations. That is, the present invention can not only have elasticity in weakly acidic conditions similar to the skin pH, can also prevent diarrhea, and can produce a cosmetic composition having excellent storage stability.

Hereinafter, examples and the like will be described in detail to help understand the present invention. However, embodiments according to the present invention can be modified in many different forms, the scope of the invention should not be construed as limited to the following examples. Embodiments of the present invention are provided to more fully describe the present invention to those skilled in the art.

<Production of Examples and Comparative Examples>

A weakly acidic cosmetic composition (Example) having elasticity of the present invention and a composition (Comparative Example) containing no pectin and a divalent cation were prepared according to the composition of Table 1 below. Specifically, the phases A and B were heated to about 70-75 ° C., mixed, dissolved, and then uniformly stirred while gradually adding phase A to phase B, followed by cooling to prepare an emulsion formulation.

Raw material (unit: weight%) Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 A Fiji-40 Stearate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Sorbitan stearate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Hydrogenated Polydecene 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 Spices 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Stearic acid 10.0 - 10.0 - - Eichparaben 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 B Purified water Balance Balance Balance Balance Balance Carbomer and Neutralizer - - - - 1.00 pectin 1.00 1.00 1.00 - - Calcium chloride 0.04 0.04 - - - Methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 glycerin 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0

Experimental Example 1 Measurement of Stability of Formulations

The stability of the Examples and Comparative Examples was evaluated by the following method. In order to test the stability of the formulation, Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were stored in transparent glass jars in a thermostat at 25 ° C, 40 ° C, 45 ° C, and 50 ° C. The storage temperature was changed in cycles, and the specific change conditions were 6 hours at -10 ° C in 1 step; 6 hours at 25 ° C in 2 steps; 6 hours at 45 ° C in 3 steps; and 6 hours at 25 ° C in 4 steps). Stability evaluation was performed. Observation of the storage stability of the formulation was evaluated according to the following criteria and the results are summarized in Table 2.

(Circle): Good, (triangle | delta): It differs from the beginning, Ｘ: The oil phase and the water phase are isolate | separated.

Experiment item Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 25 ℃ 3 days ○ ○ △ Ｘ ○ 1 week ○ ○ Ｘ Ｘ ○ 3 months ○ ○ Ｘ Ｘ ○ 40 ℃ 3 days ○ ○ Ｘ Ｘ ○ 1 week ○ △ Ｘ Ｘ ○ 3 months ○ Ｘ Ｘ Ｘ ○ 45 ℃ 3 days ○ △ Ｘ Ｘ ○ 1 week ○ △ Ｘ Ｘ ○ 3 months ○ Ｘ Ｘ Ｘ △ 50 ℃ 3 days ○ Ｘ Ｘ Ｘ ○ 1 week ○ Ｘ Ｘ Ｘ ○ 3 months △ Ｘ Ｘ Ｘ △ cycling
exam 3 days ○ ○ Ｘ Ｘ ○ 1 week ○ ○ Ｘ Ｘ ○ 3 months ○ ○ Ｘ Ｘ △

As can be seen in Table 2, the Example is stable under all temperature conditions similar to the level using a very stable thickener as in Comparative Example 4, Comparative Example is an emulsion formulation using only pectin and divalent cation calcium without fatty acids 1 shows that the formulation is unstable at most temperature conditions, Comparative Example 2 without only divalent cations, and Comparative Example 3 without both fatty acids, pectin and divalent cations showed that the formulation is unstable at all temperature conditions.

Experimental Example 2 Measurement of pH of Formulation

The pH of each formulation prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was measured.

Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 pH 4.46 4.57 4.60 6.16 7.02

As can be seen in Table 3, in the case of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, which is a formulation containing pectin, it is possible to form an emulsion formulation under mildly acidic conditions, but Comparative Example 3 and Comparative Example, which is a formulation containing no pectin 4 was neutral. In addition, the formulation is stable in both Example 1 and Comparative Example 4 when compared with the results of Experimental Example 1, Example 1 was found to be stable even under mildly acidic conditions similar to the skin pH.

Experimental Example 3 Determination of Water Evaporation Amount

In order to find out how the addition of fatty acids in the present invention affects the amount of water evaporation (digestion), the test was carried out by the following method.

In order to test the water evaporation amount (differentiation) of the formulation, Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were stored in a chalet in a thermostat at 25 ℃ and 50 ℃ and the evaporation amount of moisture after 1 day, 3 days, 1 week and 1 month Evaluated. The results are shown in FIG.

As can be seen in FIG. 1, 75% of the formulation evaporated to water in Example 1, which was a formulation containing fatty acid, pectin and divalent cation, but 87% of Comparative Example 1, which was a formulation containing no fatty acid, The evaporation of water prevented the fatty acid from evaporating.

Experimental Example 4 Rheological Properties

Rheological properties test for the weakly acidic cosmetic composition having elasticity using the pectin of the present invention was carried out by the following method.

In order to test the rheological properties of the formulation when a general thickener is used and when it contains pectin, divalent cation and fatty acid, Example 1 and Comparative Example 4 were used with Rheometer (Physica UDS 200, Plate & plate sensor). Rheological properties were measured. Yield stress was measured in the shear rate range of 0.01 ~ 1000 1 / s, the restoring force is measured by the creep test for 10 seconds shear stress of 50 Pa for 300 seconds and then measured the shear strain is changed to the results in Table 4 In summary.

Example 1 Comparative Example 4 Yield Stress (Pa) 122.83 52.14 dynamic stability(%) 68 22

As can be seen in Table 4, in the case of Example 1, which is a formulation containing pectin, the yield stress, which is the force for the first flow of the formulation, is large, but the yield stress of Comparative Example 4 using a general thickener is lower than that of Example 1. appear. In addition, the restoring force, which is restored to its original state after being deformed when 10 Pa was applied, was found to be three times higher than that of Comparative Example 4, so that the formulation containing pectin has elasticity and elasticity with high yield stress and restoring force. It can be called a formulation.

1 is a graph showing the results of evaluating the amount of water evaporation (ear development) of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 according to an embodiment of the present invention.

Claims (4)

A cosmetic composition comprising pectin, a divalent cation and a fatty acid, which is acidic and is an emulsion formulation. According to claim 1, wherein the fatty acid is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that the fatty acid having 8 to 30 carbon atoms. According to claim 1, wherein the divalent cation is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that the calcium salt, magnesium salt or a mixture thereof. Preparing an aqueous phase containing pectin and divalent cations; Preparing an oil phase containing a fatty acid; And Mixing the aqueous and oil phases to produce an emulsion formulation. A method for producing a cosmetic composition exhibiting acidity, comprising:

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