KR20150116655A - Cosmetic composition stabilizing insoluble functional ingredient - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition with a poorly soluble functional ingredient stabilized inside formulation and, more specifically, to an oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic composition, which comprises with respect to the total weight of the composition, 0.1-10 wt% of a poorly functional ingredient, 0.1-10 wt% of a nonionic surfactant, 0.1-6 wt% of fatty alcohol, 0.1-8 wt% of polyol, and 0.1-20 wt% of an oil ingredient. The cosmetic composition of the present invention without stickiness or skin stimulation due to absence of polymer or ethanol can stabilize the poorly soluble functional ingredient inside cosmetic formulation.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition stabilizing insoluble functional ingredient,

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in which a poorly soluble functional ingredient is stabilized in a formulation by incorporating a nonionic surfactant, a fatty alcohol, a polyol, and an oil component in a predetermined ratio in a cosmetic composition.

In the case of low-viscosity formulations applied to conventional mist or spray cosmetics, a large amount of ethanol is added to stabilize the active ingredient (oil, fragrance, etc.), causing skin dryness and irritation. In the case of the ethanol-based transparent low-viscosity formulation, the oil is inevitably contained in a small amount and therefore the moisture resistance is insufficient. When a polyol is added for moisturizing, the feeling of use such as stiffness is lowered. In addition, when the polymer is added to the low-viscosity emulsion formulation in which the phase is unstable, the stability is improved but the feeling of use such as stickiness is lowered.

Among the functional ingredients, ceramide is a highly crystalline substance and has low solubility in other emulsions. When it is incorporated in cosmetics for reasons such as precipitation of crystals at low temperatures, it is difficult to secure stability over time, and furthermore, It is difficult to stabilize the formulation.

PIT (Phase Inversion Temperature) emulsification technique is known as an existing method for making a low viscosity emulsion. However, when temperature control is wrong, crystals are formed and precipitation occurs at a low temperature. In addition, ethanol is added to formulate a poorly soluble substance such as fragrance in a formulation using such a technique, and a polymer capable of improving stability is used, which causes skin dryness and deterioration of use feeling .

Macro emulsions are thermodynamically unstable and are eventually separated by various pathways such as flocculation, sedimentation, creaming, particle growth or adhesion. On the other hand, if the size of the emulsion particle of the disperse phase is reduced to the nano size, the stability of the emulsion can be greatly improved by the Brownian motion between the particles, and since a low viscosity emulsion having a high internal phase content can be produced, And it is also advantageous in that an effective ingredient can be effectively delivered to the skin because the particle size is small.

However, research and development on a cosmetic composition in which a formulation is stabilized by mixing constituent components of the composition together with a poorly soluble functional ingredient at a specific content ratio is insufficient.

An object of the present invention is to provide an underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition which contains constituents of a cosmetic composition in a specific weight ratio to stabilize an insoluble functional ingredient in a formulation.

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention provides a composition comprising 0.1 to 10% by weight of a poorly soluble functional ingredient, 0.1 to 10% by weight of a nonionic surfactant, 0.1 to 6% by weight of a fatty alcohol, 0.1 to 8% 0.1 to 20% by weight, and balance water. Preferably, the present invention relates to a composition comprising 0.1 to 5% by weight of a poorly soluble functional ingredient, 0.1 to 6% by weight of a nonionic surfactant, 0.1 to 4% by weight of a fatty alcohol, 0.1 to 5% To 12% by weight of a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic composition.

The present inventors have studied to stabilize an insoluble functional ingredient in an underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition. When preparing an underwater type emulsion cosmetic by mixing a nonionic surfactant, a fatty alcohol, a polyol and an oil component at a specific ratio, It is possible to stabilize a large amount of a fragrance or a poorly soluble substance such as ceramides without using a polymer, thus completing the present invention.

The present invention provides an oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic composition wherein the weight ratio of the nonionic surfactant, fatty alcohol, polyol and oily component is 1: 0.3 to 0.6: 0.5 to 1: 1.5 to 2. When the components are mixed at a specific weight ratio as described above, the stability of the cosmetic composition containing a poorly soluble substance is greatly improved, which is desirable for the purpose of the present invention.

The present invention provides an underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition wherein the average particle size of the emulsion particles of the composition is 20 to 300 nm. When the average particle size of the emulsion particles of the underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition is in the range of 20 to 300 nm, there is no problem such as binding or precipitation of particles even after a long period of time in a thermodynamically stable state and a constant particle size is maintained. When the average particle diameter of the emulsion particles is less than 20 nm, there arises a problem that the space in which the active component can be collected on the inner surface becomes small. When the average particle diameter of the emulsion particles is more than 300 nm, the emulsion particles are agglomerated, settled, , Problems such as particle growth or adhesion occur. Preferably, the average particle size of the emulsion particles of the composition is 100 to 250 nm, which is more excellent in stability of the cosmetic composition.

The poorly soluble functional ingredient may be at least one selected from the group consisting of flavorings, ceramides, derivatives of ceramides, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, sphingolipids and vitamins.

The ceramide component may be one commonly used in cosmetics, such as ceramides produced by using yeast, ceramide produced by chemical synthesis or ceramides obtained from plants, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Preferably, the ceramides can be used in combination of at least one of ceramides 1 to 6 (Fig. 1), and more preferably, when ceramides 2 or 3 are used, the stability over time is the most excellent.

The present invention provides an underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition comprising as an insoluble functional ingredient of the above-mentioned cosmetic composition, 0.1 to 5% by weight of a perfume relative to the total weight. The present invention also provides an underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition comprising as an insoluble functional ingredient of the above cosmetic composition 0.001 to 5% by weight of a ceramide or ceramide derivative relative to the total weight. For the purpose of the present invention, the water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic composition containing the perfume, ceramide or ceramide derivative in the above-mentioned weight ratio is excellent in the stability of the formulation as the effect of the functional ingredient is sufficiently exhibited.

The nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of Ceteth-6, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-12, Cetear-6, Cetearase-10, Cetearase-12, Cetearase-20, Cetearase- PEG-10 stearate, PEG-12 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-10 glycerol, PEG-20 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl talloate, PEG-200 glyceryl tallowate, PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate, Laurate or PEG-10 distearate, and the like; Or an alkyl glyceride including glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl oleate or triglyceryl diisostearate, and the like, but not limited thereto.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant can be used in combination of two or more. The at least one nonionic surfactant has a hydrophile-lipophile balance (HLB) of 10 to 20, and the at least one nonionic surfactant has an HLB 10 < / RTI > More preferably, the at least one nonionic surfactant has an HLB of 13 to 18, and the at least one nonionic surfactant may have an HLB of 3 to 7. It is preferable for the purpose of the present invention to stabilize the poorly soluble functional ingredient in the formulation by using a combination of two or more nonionic surfactants having the above HLB range. It is most preferable to use glyceryl stearate, Cetearase-20 or a mixture thereof as the nonionic surfactant.

The fatty alcohol may be a fatty alcohol having 10 to 40 carbon atoms. For the purpose of the present invention, it is most preferred to use cetearyl alcohol as the fatty alcohol in order to stabilize the insoluble functional ingredient in the formulation.

The polyol may be at least one selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, But is not limited to, at least one selected from the group consisting of glycol, panthenol, 1,2-hexanediol, diglycerin, sorbitol, mannitol, polyethylene glycol, methylglucose and glycerol. For the purpose of the present invention, it is most preferred to use glycerin as the polyol to stabilize the poorly soluble functional ingredient in the formulation.

The oily component is selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, isocetyl ethyl hexanoate, pentaerythritol tetraethyl Ester oils such as hexanoate, butylene glycol dicaprylate caprate, hexyl laurate, distearyl malate, cetyl 2-ethyl hexanoate, octyldodecanol, and glyceryl triethylhexanoate; Silicone oils such as cyclopentasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, methyltrimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, cyclomethicone and dimethicone; Hydrocarbon oils such as isohexadecane, squalane and mineral oil; Vegetable oils such as olive oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, and macadamia oil; And animal oils such as lanolin; and the like, but is not limited thereto. For the purpose of the present invention, it is most preferable to use at least one selected from the group consisting of dicaprylyl carbonate, isohexadecane, cyclopentasiloxane and squalane as the oily component in order to stabilize the insoluble functional ingredient in the formulation.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be prepared in any form conventionally produced in the art and may be in the form of solutions, suspensions, emulsions, pastes, gels, creams, lotions, powders, soaps, Oils, powder foundations, emulsion foundations, wax foundations or sprays, but are not limited thereto. Various applications such as high viscosity cream or lotion, low viscosity mist, or spray formulation can be made by controlling the content while maintaining a certain ratio of the constituent components of the present invention.

The present invention provides a cosmetic spray composition having a viscosity of from 0.1 to 50 mPa.s comprising the above-described water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic composition. If the viscosity of the composition is more than 50 mPa · s, the spraying may not be finely formed and a drop may be formed to deteriorate the quality or prevent the spraying. The viscosity can be measured at speed 30 using a Brookfield Model LVT (Brookfield engineering laboratories, INC.) Viscometer with Spindle # 1 and the measured value can be multiplied by the factor value to obtain the final viscosity (mPa · s).

The weight ratio of the nonionic surfactant, fatty alcohol, polyol and oily component contained in the underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition in the cosmetic spray composition is 1: 0.3 to 0.6: 0.5 to 1: 1.5 to 2. When the weight ratio is maintained, the poorly soluble functional ingredient can be stabilized even in a low viscosity formulation such as a spray.

The present invention relates to a composition comprising 0.1 to 5% by weight of ceramides, based on the total weight of the composition; 0.1 to 6% by weight of glyceryl stearate or cetearyl-20; 0.1 to 4% by weight of cetearyl alcohol; 0.1 to 5% by weight of glycerin or dipropylene glycol; And 0.1 to 12% by weight of dicaprylyl carbonate, isohexadecane, cyclopentasiloxane or squalane. For the purpose of the present invention, the water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic composition comprising the above specific ingredients has the best effect of stabilizing the poorly soluble functional ingredient ceramides in the formulation.

The water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention can contain an insoluble functional ingredient and can stabilize the formulation. In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention does not contain a polymer or ethanol to stabilize the formulation, thereby reducing stickiness and skin irritation. In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared into a low-viscosity mist or spray formulation by controlling its content while maintaining the relative proportions of the constituents.

Fig. 1 shows the structural formulas of ceramides 1 to 6.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail to facilitate understanding of the present invention. However, the embodiments according to the present invention can be modified into various other forms, and the scope of the present invention should not be construed as being limited to the following embodiments. Embodiments of the invention are provided to more fully describe the present invention to those skilled in the art.

The oil component and the water component were each heated to 75 DEG C and mixed and dissolved, and then the oil component was slowly added to the water component while stirring and then cooled to prepare each formulation. In Comparative Example 5, an oil component was added, and then an acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross polymer and tromethamine were added thereto, followed by stirring and cooling.

Raw material (unit:% by weight) Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Oil component Glyceryl stearate 1.0 2.0 1.0 2.0 0.5 FAGE -100 stearate 0.5 Setares-20 2.0 4.0 2.0 4.0 Cetearyl alcohol 1.5 3.0 3.0 3.0 PIGGY-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1.0 1.0 Octyldodec-16 0.5 0.5 Dicaprylyl carbonate 1.0 2.0 1.0 2.0 5.0 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 5.0 Isohexadecane 1.5 3.0 1.5 3.0 Cyclopentasiloxane 2.0 4.0 2.0 4.0 Squalane 1.5 3.0 1.5 3.0 ethanol 30.0 30.0 Ceramide-3 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Spices 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Water component Purified water Balance Balance Balance Balance Balance Balance Balance glycerin 1.5 3.0 1.5 Dipropylene glycol 5.0 5.0 Acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate
Cross polymer 0.1 Tromethamine 0.1

Experimental Example  1. Stability measurement of formulation

The above-described examples and comparative examples were stored in a transparent glass container at 25, 40, or 45 캜 in a thermostat, and a cycling test was performed in a 1-day cycle. The cycling test was carried out at a temperature of -10 ° C for 6 hours, a temperature of 25 ° C for 6 hours, a temperature of 45 ° C for 6 hours, and a temperature of 25 ° C for 6 hours. Table 2 shows the stability of the formulation after cycling test. (?: Good,?: Different from the first, X: separation of contents occurs.)

Experiment Item Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 25 ℃ 3 days ○ ○ ○ ○ X ○ ○ 1 week ○ ○ X X X ○ ○ 3 months ○ ○ X X X ○ ○ 40 ℃ 3 days ○ ○ X X X ○ ○ 1 week ○ ○ X X X ○ ○ 3 months ○ ○ X X X ○ △ 45 ° C 3 days ○ ○ X X X ○ ○ 1 week ○ ○ X X X ○ △ 3 months ○ ○ X X X ○ △ Cycling Test 3 days ○ ○ X X X ○ ○ 1 week ○ ○ X X X ○ ○ 3 months ○ ○ X X X ○ ○

From the results shown in Table 2, it was confirmed that the compositions of Examples 1 and 2 containing ceramides and fragrance exhibited excellent stability over time as compared with the compositions of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 and 5.

Experimental Example  2. Stability measurement of the formulation (particle size measurement)

The above-described examples and comparative examples were stored in a transparent glass container at 25, 40, or 45 캜 in a thermostat, and a cycling test was performed in a 1-day cycle. The cycling test was carried out at a temperature of -10 ° C for 6 hours, a temperature of 25 ° C for 6 hours, a temperature of 45 ° C for 6 hours, and a temperature of 25 ° C for 6 hours. The emulsion average particle diameter of the obtained composition was measured using a MALVERN and a Mastersizer-2000 instrument, and the average values were obtained after three repeated measurements.

Experimental Items (Unit: nm) Example 1 Example 2 25 ℃ 3 days 170 172 1 week 171 171 2 months 170 172 40 ℃ 1 week 172 170 2 months 170 171 45 ° C 1 week 171 171 2 months 170 172 Cycling Test 1 week 170 171 2 months 171 172

From the results shown in Table 3, it was confirmed that the cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 and 2 had an average particle diameter of 171 nm and an excellent long-term stability in view of long-term particle size retention even at high temperature and cycling test.

Experimental Example  3. Evaluation of incense persistence

The flavor persistence of each of the formulations prepared in Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 4 and 5 was evaluated by sensory evaluation. The number of persons who could feel the incense was indicated by numerals. After the application, evaluation was made by time to evaluate short-term / long-term perseverance. The results are shown in Table 4 below.

Experiment Item Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Short-term sustainability 30 minutes after application 20 20 20 20 1 hour after application 20 20 20 18 3 hours after application 20 20 18 13 Long-lasting 6 hours after application 19 20 5 3 12 hours after application 17 18 0 0 18 hours after application 15 16 0 0

From the results of Table 4, it was confirmed that Examples 1 and 2 are superior in perfume persistence to Comparative Example 4, which is an ethanol base low viscosity formulation, and Comparative Example 5, which is a general emulsion type emulsion.

Experimental Example  4. Evaluation of moisturizing sustainability

The moisturizing persistence of each of the formulations prepared in Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 4 and 5 was evaluated by sensory evaluation. The number of persons who felt moisturization (persons who can not feel dryness) was indicated by numerals. After the application, evaluation was made by time to evaluate the short-term / long-term moisturizing persistence, and the results are shown in Table 5 below.

Experiment Item Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Short-term sustainability 1 hour after application 20 20 5 18 3 hours after application 20 20 4 16 Long-lasting 6 hours after application 20 20 0 10 12 hours after application 18 20 0 2 24 hours after application 17 19 0 0

From the results of Table 5, it was confirmed that Examples 1 and 2 are superior in moisturizing persistence to Comparative Example 4 which is an ethanol base low viscosity formulation and Comparative Example 5 which is a general emulsion type emulsion.

Experimental Example  5. Human Skin Patch  exam

The stimulation degree of each formulation prepared in Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 4 and 5 was evaluated in the following manner by subjecting 20 adult male and female subjects who did not have skin disease to Forearm or Back Respectively.

15 u of sample was applied to a Finn chamber (100 x 10, EPITEST, Finland) and the test area was sealed. After 24 hours of exposure, the patches were removed and marked with the marking pen. Two hours after removal of the patches, the test site was observed to observe erythema and edema. Skin reactions were judged according to the rules of the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group (ICDRG). Evaluation criteria and scores of the skin reaction are shown in Table 6, and the evaluation results are shown in Table 7 below.

sign score Evaluation standard - 0 No response ± 0.5 Weak erythema + 1.0 Clear erythema ++ 2.0 Severe erythema with edema +++ 3.0 Severe erythema, blisters, edema

Experiment Item Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Skin irritation index (PII) 0.10 0.09 0.25 0.08

From the results shown in Table 7, it was confirmed that Examples 1 and 2 are better against skin irritation than the low viscosity formulation composition containing a large amount of ethanol of Comparative Example 4.

Claims (18)

0.1 to 10% by weight of an insoluble functional ingredient, 0.1 to 10% by weight of a nonionic surfactant, 0.1 to 6% by weight of a fatty alcohol, 0.1 to 8% by weight of a polyol, 0.1 to 20% ≪ / RTI > The composition according to claim 1, which comprises 0.1 to 5% by weight of a poorly soluble functional ingredient, 0.1 to 6% by weight of a nonionic surfactant, 0.1 to 4% by weight of a fatty alcohol, 0.1 to 5% ≪ / RTI > 12% by weight of the composition. The underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the nonionic surfactant, fatty alcohol, polyol and oily component is 1: 0.3 to 0.6: 0.5 to 1: 1.5 to 2. The underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition has an emulsion particle having an average particle diameter of 20 to 300 nm. The underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the poorly soluble functional ingredient is at least one selected from the group consisting of fragrances, ceramides, ceramide derivatives, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, sphingolipids and vitamins. The underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 5, wherein the ceramide is at least one selected from the group consisting of Ceramides 1 to 6. [6] The composition for an underwater type emulsion cosmetic according to claim 5, which comprises 0.1 to 5% by weight of the perfume based on the total weight of the composition. The underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 5, which comprises 0.001 to 5% by weight of the ceramide or ceramide derivative relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of Ceteth-6, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-12, Cetearase-6, Cetearase-10, Cetearase-12, Cetearase- PEG-6 stearate, PEG-12 stearate, PEG-12 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-10 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl tallowate, PEG-200 glyceryl tallow ≪ RTI ID = 0.0 > PEG-8 < / RTI > dilaurate and PEG-10 distearate; And an alkyl glyceride including glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl oleate, and triglyceryl diisostearate. The composition of claim 1, 10. The composition of claim 9, wherein the nonionic surfactant is a combination of two or more,
The at least one nonionic surfactant has a hydrophile-lipophile balance (HLB) of 10 to 20,
Wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant has an HLB of from 1 to 10. < RTI ID = 0.0 > 11. < / RTI > 11. An underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 10, wherein the nonionic surfactant comprises glyceryl stearate and cetearase-20. The underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty alcohol has a carbon number of 10 to 40 carbon atoms. The method according to claim 1, wherein the polyol is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, panthenol, 1,2-hexanediol, diglycerin, sorbitol, mannitol, polyethylene glycol, Wherein the water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic composition is at least one selected from the group consisting of glycerol, glycerol, glycerol and glycerol. 14. The underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 13, wherein the polyol is glycerol. The underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily component is at least one selected from the group consisting of an ester oil, a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon oil, a vegetable oil and an animal oil. The underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 15, wherein the oily component is at least one selected from the group consisting of dicaprylyl carbonate, isohexadecane, cyclopentasiloxane and squalane. A cosmetic spray composition comprising the water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic composition of claim 1 and having a viscosity of from 0.1 to 50 mPa · s. 18. The cosmetic composition according to claim 17, wherein the weight ratio of the nonionic surfactant, fatty alcohol, polyol and oily component contained in the underwater type emulsion cosmetic composition is 1: 0.3 to 0.6: 0.5 to 1: Spray composition.

Images