KR20020047153A - Skin-balance moisturizing cream - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a moisturizing agent (a) comprising glycerin and propylene glycol, an emollient (b) comprising a dimethicone copolyol and trimethylsiloxysilicate, an isohexadecane, a cyclomethicone, a dimethicone, a keratinizer (c) and water It relates to an oil-free skin care composition for skin hydration, comprising (d). The skin protection composition according to the present invention combines the emollient effect of emollient with the moisturizing action of the moisturizer and the coating activity of the lubricant to provide an effective moisture supply effect. The combination of these ingredients counteracts the loss of water effect, leaving the skin soft, smooth and supple. The composition according to the present invention inhibits sclerosis and sustains the moisture supply effect for a long time without the use of barrier substances.

Description

Skin-balance moisturizing cream

This application claims priority to US Provisional Application No. 60 / 153,005, filed Sep. 9, 1999, which is incorporated herein by reference.

Field of invention

The present invention effectively supplies moisture to the skin by combining emollient action, moisturizing action, and coating activity of lubricants, thereby offsetting moisture loss effect, thereby preventing non-comedogenic sclerosis that keeps skin soft, smooth and supple. A skin care composition.

Background of the Invention

Skin protection and long lasting hydration effects are known to be best obtained through water-in-oil emulsions (US Pat. No. 3,818,105). However, such emulsions have reduced aesthetic effects when applied to the skin because of greasy and greasy after feel. Certain water-based products, ie oil-in-water emulsions, are oil-free and not greasy, but lack sufficient water supply. U.S. Patent No. 4,389,419 discloses a skin protective water-out emulsion composition for moisturizing and regulating the skin, comprising a mixture of sufficient petrolatum or mineral oil, quaternary ammonium emulsifiers, fatty alcohols and fatty ester emollients. This is described. The composition offsets the water loss effect to keep the skin soft, smooth and supple, while the presence of petrolatum and mineral oil makes the composition difficult to emulsify and the composition is cosmetically unacceptable.

The problems associated with valid skin moisturizing products are even more serious in the teen youth market where hydration seems to be contrary to acne and cotton free skin maintenance. Teens generally avoid using moisturizers because they perceive moisturizers to worsen problem skin. However, proper hydration is necessary to treat and alleviate dryness to maintain complete barrier function of the skin.

Accordingly, there is a continuing need for an effective skin moisturizing composition that is effective for moisturizing the skin without leaving a greasy or greasy feel on the skin and that inhibits the generation of scrim.

Surprisingly, it has been found that certain combinations of emollients, moisturizers and keratin solubilizers can result in a light, uncluttered oil-free water-based cream emulsion that facilitates spreading, is fast to absorb, lasts for a long time and inhibits sclerosis.

Summary of the Invention

Therefore, the present invention

Moisturizer (a) comprising glycerin and propylene glycol,

Emollients (b) comprising isohexadecane, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol and trimethylsiloxysilicate,

Keratin solubilizer (c) and

It relates to an oil-free skin care composition for skin hydration, comprising water (d).

The skin protection composition according to the present invention combines the emollient effect of emollient with the moisturizing action of the moisturizer and the coating activity of the lubricant to provide an effective moisture supply effect. The combination of these ingredients counteracts the loss of water effect, leaving the skin soft, smooth and supple. The composition according to the present invention inhibits scleroderma and maintains the moisture supply effect for a long time without the use of an occlusive material.

details

The present invention relates to a skin care composition for supplying skin with a moisturizer, emollient, keratin dissolving agent and water. The skin care composition according to the invention is an oil-free aqueous emulsion, ie an oil-in-water emulsion. In the description of the present invention, the term "oil-free" means not including any ingredient (including mineral oil) with the name "oil" in petrolatum or its nomenclature.

The skin care composition according to the present invention comprises one or more humectants which strongly attract and retain moisture, thereby increasing the moisture content of the upper layer of skin which needs to relieve dry skin. This increases the skin's moisture level without feeling heavy and blocked.

The humectant is preferably present in an amount of about 2 to about 10 weight percent based on the total composition. Moisturizing agents suitable for use in the present invention include glycerin, propylene glycol and mixtures thereof. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the moisturizing agent is a mixture of about 1% to about 5% glycerin and about 1% to about 5% propylene glycol, more preferably about 2% to about 3% glycerin and propylene based on the total composition A mixture with about 2 to about 3 weight percent glycol.

In addition, the skin care compositions according to the invention contain emollients. Emollients useful in the skin care compositions according to the invention contain a mixture of isohexadecane, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol and trimethylsiloxysilicate. The emollient acts indirectly to soften the stratum corneum by reducing the rate at which moisture is lost to the surroundings, thereby rehydrating the skin itself from within the skin.

Dimethicone and trimethylsiloxysilicate provide a light touch with skin protection and long lasting lubricity and do not interfere with skin respiration. Combinations of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyols are commonly used to prepare water-in-cyclomethicone emulsions in cyclomethicone. In the skin care composition according to the invention, cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyols are used as emollient delivery systems. In water-based emulsions, ie oil-in-water emulsions, once applied to the skin, the volatile components evaporate to provide a cooling effect to the skin, as well as leaving heavier and more effective skin conditioners on the skin.

In addition to providing an emollient effect, dimethicone copolyols are silicone glycol copolymers that provide moisturizing benefits as well as emollient effects. Examples of dimethicone copolyols available from Dow Corning Corporation useful herein include DC 190, DC 193, DC Q2-5220, DC 2501 wax, DC 2-5324 fluid, and DC 3225C (the last Material is commercially available in a mixture with cyclomethicone). Cetyl dimethicone copolyol is a mixture with polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (and) hexyl laurate and is available under the trade name ABIL.RTM. Commercially available as WE-09 (commercially available from Goldschmidt).

Trimethylsiloxysilicate is a compound of the formula [(CH ₂ ) ₃ SiO _1/2 ] _x [SiO ₂ ] _y where x is an integer from about 1 to about 500 and y is an integer from about 1 to about 500 Corresponds to Preferred commercial trimethylsiloxysilicates are commercially available as DC 593 from Dow Corning Corporation as a mixture with dimethicone.

Suitable dimethicones useful as emollients in the skin care compositions of the present invention are commercially available from Dow Corning Corporation as Dow Corning 200 series. Particularly preferred dimethicones for use in the skin care compositions of the invention are commercially available as DC200 / 350cst from Dow Corning Corporation.

In a preferred embodiment, the skin care composition according to the invention comprises about 3 to about 15 weight percent emollient. Based on the total weight of the composition, about 1.0 to about 4.0 weight percent isohexadecane, about 1.0 to about 5.0 weight percent DC 3225C, about 0.5 to about 3.0 weight percent DC 593 and about 0.5 to about 3.0 DC 200/350 Particularly preferred is a blend by weight.

Keratin dissolving agents useful in the skin care composition according to the present invention should be effective in preventing acne and scrim. Suitable keratin solubilizers include α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids. Most preferred keratin solubilizer is salicylic acid. Keratin solubilizers are present in the skin care composition according to the present invention in an amount of preferably from about 0.25 to about 2.0 weight percent, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 2.0 weight percent, based on the total composition.

The skin care composition according to the invention preferably contains a stabilizing effective emulsifier. The emulsifier is preferably present in an amount of about 1.0 to about 10.0 weight percent, more preferably about 3.0 to about 6.0 weight percent based on the total composition. Any emulsifier that is miscible with the components of the present invention can be used. However, it has been found that if stearic acid is the main emulsifier, it also helps to provide the skin feel of the product. In addition, when cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol are used as co-emulsifiers, they provide lubricity to the skin. Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the emulsifiers used in the skin care compositions of the present invention, based on the total composition, each of about 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 2% by weight of stearic acid, cetyl alcohol and Stearyl alcohol.

Small amounts of thickeners may be included to further stabilize the emulsion. Thickeners are used in amounts of about 0.01 to about 10 weight percent based on the weight of the coating composition. A range of about 0.01 to about 5% by weight is preferred, with a range of about 0.03 to about 1.0% by weight being particularly preferred. Thickeners are homopolymers or copolymers of non-bonding thickeners or stabilizers, for example olefinically unsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydride monomers containing one or more activated carbon to carbon olefinic double bonds and one or more carboxyl groups, or alkali soluble acrylics. It may be an emulsion. It is also possible to use binder thickeners or stabilizers such as hydrophobically modified alkali soluble acrylic emulsions or hydrophobically modified nonionic polyol polymers, ie hydrophobically modified urethane polymers, or combinations thereof. The copolymer is preferably a copolymer of a polycarboxylic acid monomer and a hydrophobic monomer. Preferred carboxylic acid is acrylic acid. Homopolymers and copolymers are preferably crosslinked.

Polyacrylic acid homopolymers are described, for example, in US Pat. No. 2,798,053, which is incorporated herein by reference. Examples of useful homopolymers are TM 934, 940, 941, Ultrez 10, ETD 2050 and 974P polymers registered as Carbopol, which are more specific. F. Available from The B.F. Goodrich Company. Such polymers are homopolymers of polymerizable unsaturated carboxylic monomers such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, maleic anhydride and the like.

Hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acid polymers are described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,349,030, which is incorporated herein by reference. These polymers have a large hydrophilic moiety (polyacrylic acid moiety) with high affinity with water and smaller hydrophobic moieties (which can be derived from long carbon chain acrylate esters) with high affinity with oil. Representative higher alkyl acrylate esters are decyl acrylate, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, behenyl acrylate and melyl acrylate, and corresponding methacrylates. It is to be understood that at least one carboxylic acid monomer and at least one acrylate ester or vinyl ester or ether or styrene may be used in the monomer input. The polymer may be dispersed in water and neutralized with a base to increase the viscosity of the aqueous composition, to form a gel or to emulsify or suspend the delivery material. Useful polymers are TM 1342 and 1382 registered as Carbopol and TM TR-1, TR-2, 1621 and 1622 registered as Pemulen, all commercially available from Bif Goodrich. Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA designation: acrylate / 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) is particularly preferred.

Neutralizers suitable for use herein to neutralize acidic group-containing hydrophilic gelling agents include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine.

Preferably the pH of the skin care composition according to the invention is a pH which not only provides a suitable environment for keratin solubility efficacy but also maintains skin moisture balance, which ranges from 4.5 to 6.5. The pH range of the composition is preferably 5.5 to 6.5.

The moisture content of the skin care compositions according to the invention is generally in the range of about 75 to about 85% by weight, preferably about 75 to about 80% by weight. This relatively high moisture content makes the cream light and easy to apply. Preferably, the composition is formulated to have a product viscosity of about 75,000 to about 300,000 cps.

The skin care composition according to the invention may comprise further ingredients conventionally used in skin care compositions, such as preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances, chelating agents and the like, provided that they are physically compatible with the other ingredients of the composition. And chemically miscible. Examples of preservatives suitable for use in the skin care compositions of the present invention include C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl parabens and phenoxyethanol. Preservatives are generally present in amounts of about 0.5 to about 2.0 weight percent, preferably about 1.0 to about 1.5 weight percent, based on the total composition. In a preferred embodiment, the preservative is a mixture of about 0.2 to about 0.5 weight percent methylparaben, about 0.2 to about 5.0 weight percent propylparaben and about 0.05 to about 0.10 weight percent butylparaben. Particularly preferred commercial preservatives which can be used in the skin care compositions according to the invention are PHENONIP TM [Nipa Laboratore, which is a substantially colorless, viscous liquid mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben. Commercially available from Nipa Laboratories, Inc., Wilmington, Delaware, USA.

Preferably, a fat soluble antioxidant should be present in the skin care composition according to the invention. Suitable antioxidants include butylated hydroxy toluene (BHT), ascorbyl palmitate, butylated hydroanisole (BHA), phenyl-a'-naphthylamine, hydroquinone, propyl gallate, nordihydroquiaretic acid And mixtures thereof. Preferably the antioxidant is BHT and is present in the composition in an amount of about 0.02 to about 0.05% by weight, most preferably about 0.02 to about 0.10% by weight.

Suitable fragrances for use in the skin care compositions according to the invention are well known in the art. Particular preference is given to those which can provide a fruity and / or floral scent, such as Mod Twist, available from Haarmann & Reimer Corp.

In certain embodiments of the invention, the composition should comprise a chelating agent. Chelating agents useful in the compositions of the present invention include ethylenediamine tetra acetic acid (EDTA) and derivatives and salts thereof, dihydroxyethyl glycine, citric acid, tartaric acid and mixtures thereof. Chelating agents should be used in a stabilizing effective amount and may range from about 0.01 to about 2 weight percent, preferably from about 0.05 to about 1 weight percent, based on the total composition. Most preferably, the chelating agent is EDTA.

Other ingredients include agents that help protect the skin from aging, such as sunscreens, antioxidants such as ascorbic acid, vitamin B, biotin, pantothenic acid, vitamin D, vitamin E and vitamins. C, and sodium bisulfite. Other ingredients that help prevent skin aging, treatment, retinoid metabolism, and inhibit elastase production by means such as stimulation relief, oxidative relief include yeast extract, ginkgo biloba, bisabolol, panthenol, α-hydroxy Acids and oligosaccharides such as melibiose.

Ingredients with a low scalp production capacity should be selected so that the product is resistant to scalp production.

The skin protection composition according to the present invention effectively moisturizes the skin by combining the emollient action of the emollient, the moisturizing action of the moisturizer and the coating activity of the lubricant, thereby offsetting the water loss effect to keep the skin soft, smooth and supple. The composition according to the invention sustains the moisture supply effect for a long time without the use of barrier substances.

The compositions of the present invention can be prepared by well known mixing or blending methods. Preferably each phase of the emulsion is prepared separately with all components contained in a suitable phase, provided that it is generally preferred not to include the retinoid compound at first. The oil phase is then typically added with stirring to the water phase to form an emulsion, and the emulsion must be cooled when the retinoid compound is added. Examples of preferred methods of making the skin care compositions according to the invention are described below.

Salicylic Acid (Preliminary Mixture 1)

In a separate container, salicylic acid is added to propylene glycol and mixed until clear.

Phase A (Main Placement)

1. Add purified water to the mixing vessel.

2. Turn on the side sweep scraper and stirrer.

3. Add EDTA, mix and disperse.

4. Spray the Pemulen TR-1, mix it uniformly and disperse.

5. Mix the composition while heating to 70-75 ° C. At 70-75 ° C., Carbopol Ultrez 10 is sprayed and mixed to disperse.

6. At 70-75 ° C. add methylparaben and continue mixing.

7. Add glycerin and continue mixing.

8. The composition is kept at 70-75 ° C. to separate the phases.

Phase B (oil phase)

9. Add isohexadecane to a separate container, add cetyl alcohol and heat to 75-80 ° C. to melt all components.

10. At about 55-65 ° C., add propylparaben and mix and disperse uniformly, then add butylparaben and mix and disperse uniformly.

11. Add butylated hydroxy toluene and mix.

12. Continue heating to 75-80 ° C. and add stearic acid. The composition is melted and dispersed. After addition of stearyl alcohol, DC 3225C, then DC 593, is added and mixed to make uniform.

13. Add dimethicone and distribute all components uniformly.

14. The composition is kept at 75-80 ° C. to separate the phases.

Phase separation

15. When the oil phase is 75-80 ° C. and the water phase is 70-75 ° C., the oil phase (phase B) is added to the aqueous phase (phase A) with homogenization for 5 to 10 minutes to achieve a homogeneous batch.

16. Slowly add triethanolamine and mix for 10 minutes or until a homogeneous batch is obtained.

17. Turn off the homogenizer, mix the composition and cool to 40-45 ° C.

18. Salicylic acid is added to the premix.

19. Add fragrance and mix for 20-25 minutes or until uniform.

20. Measure the viscosity and pH at 25 ° C.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention and are not intended to limit the invention in practice.

Ingredient CTFA Name Ingredient % (w / w) water Enough Carbomer Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer 0.30 Acrylate / C _10-30 Alkyl Acrylate _Crosspolymer Pemulen TR-1 0.20 Disodium EDTA Trilon BD 0.05 glycerin Prisrine 9073 3.0 Cyclomethicone (and) dimethicone copolyols DC 3225C 2.0 Isohexadecane Isohexadecane 2.0 Dimethicone (and) trimethylsiloxysilicate DC 593 2.0 Dimethicone DC 200 / 350cst 2.0 Stearyl alcohol Lanette 18 1.0 Stearic acid Presetrine 4900 1.0 Cetyl alcohol Lanette 16 2.0 Phenoxyethanol & Parabens Phenonib 1.0 Propylene glycol Propylene Glycol USP 3.0 Salicylic acid Salicylic acid 0.50 Butylated Hydroxy Toluene BHT 0.02 Triethanolamine Trollamine 1.38 air freshener Mode twist 0.5

Claims (10)

Moisturizer (a) comprising glycerin and propylene glycol, Emollients (b) comprising isohexadecane, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol and trimethylsiloxysilicate, Keratin solubilizer (c) and An oil-free skin care composition for moisturizing skin, comprising water (d). The composition of claim 1 comprising a stabilizing effective amount of an emulsifier. The composition of claim 2 wherein the emulsifier is selected from stearic acid, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. The composition of claim 1 comprising a stabilizing effective amount of a thickener. The composition of claim 1 wherein the keratinous solubilizer is selected from salicylic acid. The composition of claim 1 further comprising an effective amount of a preservative. The composition of claim 1 further comprising an effective amount of a chelating agent. 8. The composition of claim 7, wherein the chelating agent is selected from the group consisting of ethylenediamine tetra acetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof. The composition of claim 1 further comprising an antioxidant. The method of claim 9 wherein the antioxidant is butylated hydroxy toluene (BHT), ascorbyl palmitate, butylated hydroanisole (BHA), phenyl-a'-naphthylamine, hydroquinone, propyl gallate, nord A composition selected from dihydroquiaret acid and mixtures thereof.