KR102622691B1 - Cosmetic Composition For Prohibiting Skin Aging By Light Comprising Acer Tegmentosum And Fraction From Thereof As Active Ingredient - Google Patents
Cosmetic Composition For Prohibiting Skin Aging By Light Comprising Acer Tegmentosum And Fraction From Thereof As Active Ingredient Download PDFInfo
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- KR102622691B1 KR102622691B1 KR1020210152208A KR20210152208A KR102622691B1 KR 102622691 B1 KR102622691 B1 KR 102622691B1 KR 1020210152208 A KR1020210152208 A KR 1020210152208A KR 20210152208 A KR20210152208 A KR 20210152208A KR 102622691 B1 KR102622691 B1 KR 102622691B1
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- cosmetic composition
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
- A61K31/045—Hydroxy compounds, e.g. alcohols; Salts thereof, e.g. alcoholates
- A61K31/05—Phenols
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
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- Mycology (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
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- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
본 발명은 벌나무(Acer tegmentosum)추출물과 이의 분리 화합물인 티로솔(tyrosol)을 유효성분으로 포함하는 화장료 조성물에 관한 것으로서, 구체적으로는 광에 의한 피부 노화 현상을 효과적으로 개선하는 화장료 조성물에 관한 것이다. 상기 화장료 조성물은 피부 노화의 원인 중 하나인 광에 의한 피부 노화 현상에 대하여 UV, IR에 유도에 의한 콜라겐 분해효소의 활성을 효과적으로 감소시켜 피부 주름 개선 효과를 갖는다.The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing Acer tegmentosum extract and tyrosol, an isolated compound thereof, as active ingredients, and specifically to a cosmetic composition that effectively improves skin aging caused by light. The cosmetic composition has the effect of improving skin wrinkles by effectively reducing the activity of collagen degrading enzymes induced by UV and IR for skin aging caused by light, which is one of the causes of skin aging.
Description
본 발명은 벌나무(Acer tegmentosum) 추출물과 이의 분리 화합물인 티로솔(tyrosol)을 유효성분으로 포함하는 화장료 조성물에 관한 것으로서, 구체적으로는 광에 의한 피부 노화 현상을 효과적으로 개선하는 화장료 조성물에 관한 것이다. 상기 화장료 조성물은 피부 노화의 원인 중 하나인 광에 의한 피부 노화 현상에 대하여 자외선 또는 적외선 유도에 의한 콜라겐 분해효소의 활성을 효과적으로 감소시켜 피부 주름 개선 효과를 갖는다.The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing Acer tegmentosum extract and tyrosol, an isolated compound thereof, as active ingredients, and specifically to a cosmetic composition that effectively improves skin aging caused by light. The cosmetic composition has an effect of improving skin wrinkles by effectively reducing the activity of collagen decomposition enzyme induced by ultraviolet rays or infrared rays in response to skin aging caused by light, which is one of the causes of skin aging.
사람의 피부는 노화 과정에서 다양한 물리·화학적인 변화가 일어난다. 그 원인으로는 크게 내적인 노화(intrinsic aging)와 광노화 (photo-aging)로 구분되며 이에 관한 연구가 활발히 이루어져 왔다. 자외선, 스트레스, 질병 상태, 환경 인자, 상처, 나이가 들어감에 따라 자유라디칼이 활성화되어 야기될 수 있으며, 이런 상태가 심화될 경우 생체 내에 존재하는 항산화 방어망을 파괴하고, 세포 및 조직을 손상시켜 성인병 및 노화를 촉진하게 된다. 좀 더 구체적으로는 피부의 주요 구성 물질인 지질, 단백질, 다당류 및 핵산 등이 산화되어 피부 세포 및 조직이 파괴되고, 결국 피부 노화 현상이 생겨나는 것이다. Human skin undergoes various physical and chemical changes during the aging process. The causes are largely divided into intrinsic aging and photo-aging, and research on these has been actively conducted. It can be caused by the activation of free radicals due to ultraviolet rays, stress, disease states, environmental factors, wounds, and aging. If this condition worsens, it destroys the antioxidant defense network that exists in the body and damages cells and tissues, causing adult diseases. and accelerates aging. More specifically, the major components of skin, such as lipids, proteins, polysaccharides, and nucleic acids, are oxidized, destroying skin cells and tissues, and ultimately causing skin aging.
사람의 피부색은 멜라닌, 헤모글로빈, 카로틴 등에 의해 결정되는데 이 중에서도 멜라닌이 가장 중요한 역할을 한다. 멜라닌은 사람의 피부색을 결정하는 것 이외에도 자외선 흡수 작용, 자유 라디칼 소거제(free radical scavenger) 등과 같은 피부 보호작용을 수행한다. 그러나, 자외선의 과다 노출, 대기 오염, 스트레스 등과 같은 외부의 환경 변화에 의하여 멜라닌이 과다하게 생성되면 피부 내에서 색소 침착 현상을 일으켜 피부의 흑화 또는 기미, 주근깨 등의 원인이 된다. A person's skin color is determined by melanin, hemoglobin, and carotene, of which melanin plays the most important role. In addition to determining a person's skin color, melanin also performs skin protection functions such as absorbing ultraviolet rays and acting as a free radical scavenger. However, when melanin is excessively produced due to external environmental changes such as overexposure to ultraviolet rays, air pollution, stress, etc., pigmentation occurs within the skin, causing darkening of the skin, dark spots, freckles, etc.
피부의 흑화는 내적 및 외적 요인에 대한 피부 세포의 반응에 의하여 발생 하는 것으로, 대표적인 요인은 자외선 노출로 인한 것이다. 즉, 피부가 자외선에 노출되면 타이로시나아제(Tyrosinase)가 활성화되는데, 상기 타이로시나아제가 피부조직에 존재하는 티로신에 작용하여 도파(DOPA) 및 도파퀴논을 생성시키는 산화 과정에 의하여, 피부 색소 세포인 멜라노사이트 내의 멜라노좀에서 멜라닌이라는 중합체가 합성되며, 이러한 멜라닌이 피부의 각질 형성 세포인 케라티노사이트로 전달되고 각질화 과정에 의해 피부 표면에 도달하여 자외선으로부터 피부를 보호하게 된다. 따라서, 멜라닌은 우리 인체에 없어서는 안 되는 자외선 방어제이며, 또한 단백질, 지질, 핵산 등과 같은 생체성분을 변형시키는 다양한 라디칼을 제거하는 효과적인 자유 라디칼 소거제의 역할을 담당하고 있다.Darkening of the skin occurs due to the reaction of skin cells to internal and external factors, the representative factor being exposure to ultraviolet rays. In other words, when the skin is exposed to ultraviolet rays, tyrosinase is activated, and the tyrosinase acts on tyrosine present in skin tissue to produce DOPA and dopaquinone through an oxidation process that causes skin damage. A polymer called melanin is synthesized in melanosomes within melanocytes, which are pigment cells. This melanin is delivered to keratinocytes, which are keratin forming cells of the skin, and reaches the skin surface through the keratinization process to protect the skin from ultraviolet rays. Therefore, melanin is an essential ultraviolet ray protection agent for our human body, and also plays the role of an effective free radical scavenger that removes various radicals that modify biological components such as proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids.
특히, 단백질의 산화는 피부의 결합 조직인 콜라겐 (collagen), 히아루론산 (hyaluronic acid), 엘라스틴 (elastin), 프로테오글리칸 (proteoglycan), 피브로넥틴 (fibronectin) 등이 절단되어 심한 과다 염증 반응과 피부의 탄력에 지장을 주고 이것이 더 심해질 경우 DNA의 변이에 의해 돌연변이, 암의 유발, 면역 기능 저하의 사태에 이르게 된다. 그러므로, 신체의 대사 과정 중 발생하는 자유 라디칼이나 자외선 조사, 염증반응에 의해 매개되어 발생하는 자유 라디칼을 소거하여 세포막을 보호하고, 또 이미 손상 받은 세포는 활발한 신진 대사에 의해 재생시켜서 세포를 증식시켜야 피부는 빠르게 회복되고 건강한 피부를 유지할 수 있다.In particular, protein oxidation causes the connective tissues of the skin, such as collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin, proteoglycan, and fibronectin, to be cut, causing a severe hyperinflammatory reaction and disrupting skin elasticity. If this becomes more severe, it can lead to mutations, cancer, and decreased immune function due to DNA mutations. Therefore, it is necessary to protect the cell membrane by scavenging free radicals generated during the body's metabolic process, ultraviolet irradiation, and inflammatory reactions, and to proliferate cells by regenerating already damaged cells through active metabolism. The skin can recover quickly and maintain healthy skin.
노화에는 자유 라디칼 뿐만 아니라 콜라겐 분해효소인 기질 금속 단백질 분해 효소(Matrix Metalloproteinase; MMP)라는 효소도 관여한다. 즉, 생체 내에서 콜라겐과 같은 세포외기질의 합성과 분해는 적절하게 조절되나, 노화가 진행되면서 콜라겐 합성이 감소하고, 콜라겐을 분해하는 효소인 기질 금속 단백질 분해 효소(MMP)의 발현이 촉진되어 피부의 탄력이 저하되고 주름이 형성된다. 또한, 자외선 조사에 의해 이러한 분해 효소가 활성화되기도 한다. 그러므로, 세포 내에서 활성화가 유도되는 MMP 발현을 조절하거나 그 활성을 억제할 수 있는 물질의 개발이 요구되고 있다.In aging, not only free radicals but also an enzyme called matrix metalloproteinase (MMP), an enzyme that degrades collagen, is involved. In other words, the synthesis and decomposition of extracellular matrix such as collagen is properly regulated in vivo, but as aging progresses, collagen synthesis decreases and the expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP), an enzyme that decomposes collagen, is promoted, thereby promoting skin Elasticity decreases and wrinkles form. Additionally, these decomposition enzymes may be activated by ultraviolet irradiation. Therefore, there is a need for the development of substances that can regulate the expression of MMPs whose activation is induced within cells or inhibit their activity.
산소는 물과 더불어 우리가 살아가는데 없어서는 안 되는 물질이나, 그 산소가 일단 우리의 체내에 들어가면 여러 원인들에 의해 굉장히 활성이 강한 산소로 변하여 혈관 세포를 산화시킨다. 오늘날 질병의 원인의 약 90% 정도가 이 활성산소에 의한 것으로 규명되고 있다. 사람의 몸은 약 60조의 세포로 구성되어 있으며, 세포막은 임피질로 형성되어 있어 활성산소가 연결되기 쉽다. 산화반응이 발생하면 불포화 지방산은 과산화지질로 변화한다. 이 과산화지질이 유전자 DNA, RNA, 단백질, 세포막 및 세포 구조 등에 손상을 주어 암이 되거나 여러 성인병의 원인이 되며, 궁극적으로 노화의 원인이 된다. 바로 이러한 활성산소를 없애거나 중화시켜 세포가 산화하는 것을 막는 역할을 하는 물질을 항산화 물질이라고 한다. 일반적으로 피부세포의 구성성분인 지질의 활성산소로 인해 과산화가 일어나면 세포막의 구조가 변형되어 세포 투과성, 유동성, 막 효소와 운반 단백질의 불활성화, 단백질 사슬의 절단, DNA, RNA 손상 등이 발생하여 피부세포가 노화가 일어난다고 알려져 있다. 이러한 이유 때문에 활성산소를 제거하려고 하는 노력이 지속되었으며, 이러한 결과로 인해 많은 황산화 물질이 개발되었다. 지금까지 항산화 작용을 갖는 것으로 알려진 물질로는, 아스코르브산(ascorbic acid), 베타카로틴(β-carotene), 디부틸히드록실톨루엔(BHT), 디엘-알파 토코페롤(DL-α-tocopherol) 등이 있다. Oxygen, along with water, is an essential substance for our lives, but once it enters our body, it changes into very active oxygen for various reasons and oxidizes blood vessel cells. Today, approximately 90% of the causes of disease are known to be caused by free radicals. The human body is composed of approximately 60 trillion cells, and the cell membrane is made of lymphatic cortex, making it easy for active oxygen to connect. When an oxidation reaction occurs, unsaturated fatty acids change into lipid peroxides. This lipid peroxide damages genes, DNA, RNA, proteins, cell membranes, and cell structures, causing cancer or various adult diseases, and ultimately causes aging. Substances that prevent cells from oxidizing by eliminating or neutralizing free radicals are called antioxidants. In general, when peroxidation occurs due to active oxygen in lipids, which are components of skin cells, the structure of the cell membrane is modified, resulting in cell permeability, fluidity, inactivation of membrane enzymes and transport proteins, cleavage of protein chains, and damage to DNA and RNA. It is known that skin cells age. For this reason, efforts to remove active oxygen continued, and as a result, many sulfur-oxidizing substances were developed. Substances known to have antioxidant properties so far include ascorbic acid, beta-carotene, dibutylhydroxytoluene (BHT), and DL-α-tocopherol. .
현재까지 광에 의한 피부노화를 억제하기 위해서 상기와 같은 다양한 물질들이 개발 되었으나 천연소재에 대한 필요성이 증가되고 있다. To date, various materials as described above have been developed to suppress skin aging caused by light, but the need for natural materials is increasing.
한국등록특허 제10-1040507호에서는 천녀목란 추출물을 함유하여 광노화 방지 효과를 갖는 화장료 조성물을 개시한다.Korean Patent No. 10-1040507 discloses a cosmetic composition containing magnolia extract and having an anti-photoaging effect.
또한, 한국등록특허 제10-0308178호는 율피추출물을 함유하여 피부 주름 개선 효과를 갖는 화장료 조성물을 개시한다. In addition, Korean Patent No. 10-0308178 discloses a cosmetic composition containing Yulpi extract and having an effect of improving skin wrinkles.
또한 한국등록특허 제11-1176525호는 벌나무 추출물을 함유하여 그룸 개선 효과를 갖는 화장료 조성물을 개시한다.Additionally, Korean Patent No. 11-1176525 discloses a cosmetic composition containing bee tree extract and having a grooming effect.
본 발명은 벌나무(Acer tegmentosum) 추출물과 이의 분리 화합물을 포함하는 화장료 조성물로써, 상기의 화장료 조성물은 피부 노화의 원인 중 하나인 광에 의한 피부 노화 현상에 대하여 자외선(UV) 및 적외선(IR)에 의하여 발현되는 콜라겐 분해효소의 활성을 효과적으로 감소시켜 피부 주름 개선 효과를 가지는 화장료 조성물을 제공하고자 한다.The present invention is a cosmetic composition containing an extract of Acer tegmentosum and an isolated compound thereof. The cosmetic composition is a cosmetic composition that protects against ultraviolet (UV) and infrared (IR) skin aging phenomenon caused by light, which is one of the causes of skin aging. The object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition that has an effect of improving skin wrinkles by effectively reducing the activity of collagen decomposing enzymes expressed by the present invention.
상기한 과제는, 벌나무(Acer tegmentosum) 추출물과 이의 분리화합물인 티로솔을 유효성분으로 포함하고, 자외선 또는 적외선에 의해 증가된 콜라겐 분해효소를 억제하는 효과를 갖는 피부 보호용 화장료 조성물에 의해 달성된다.The above-described problem is achieved by a cosmetic composition for skin protection that contains Acer tegmentosum extract and tyrosol, an isolated compound thereof, as active ingredients and has the effect of inhibiting collagen decomposition enzymes increased by ultraviolet rays or infrared rays.
바람직하게는, 상기 벌나무 추출물과 상기 티로솔은 1:10 내지 10:1의 중량비로 포함될 수 있다.Preferably, the bee tree extract and the tyrosol may be included in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10:1.
또한 바람직하게는, 상기 벌나무 추출물과 상기 티로솔은 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 0.0001 내지 20.0 중량%로 함유될 수 있다.Also preferably, the bee tree extract and the tyrosol may be contained in an amount of 0.0001 to 20.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
또한 바람직하게는, 상기 화장료는 용액, 현탁액, 유탁액, 페이스트, 젤, 크림, 로션, 파우더, 비누, 계면활성제-함유 클렌징, 오일, 분말 파운데이션, 유탁액 파운데이션, 왁스 파운데이션 및 스프레이로 구성된 군으로부터 선택되는 제형일 수 있다.Also preferably, the cosmetic is selected from the group consisting of solutions, suspensions, emulsions, pastes, gels, creams, lotions, powders, soaps, surfactant-containing cleansing agents, oils, powder foundations, emulsion foundations, wax foundations and sprays. It may be the formulation of choice.
또한 바람직하게는, 상기 벌나무 추출물은 탄소수 1-4개의 무수 또는 함수 저급 알코올, 아세톤, 에틸 아세테이트 및 부틸 아세테이트로 구성된 군으로부터 선택되는 추출용매로 추출된 것일 수 있다.Also preferably, the bee tree extract may be extracted with an extraction solvent selected from the group consisting of anhydrous or hydrous lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, acetone, ethyl acetate, and butyl acetate.
본 발명에 따른 화장료 조성물은 벌나무와 이의 분리화합물인 티로솔을 특정 중량비로 포함하여 자외선 또는 적외선에 의해 증가된 콜라겐 분해효소를 억제하는 효과를 갖고, 자외선 또는 적외선에 의해 야기된 주름을 개선하는 효과를 갖는다. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains bee tree and tyrosol, an isolated compound thereof, in a specific weight ratio, and has the effect of suppressing collagen decomposition enzymes increased by ultraviolet rays or infrared rays, and improving wrinkles caused by ultraviolet rays or infrared rays. has
본 발명에서 사용되는 모든 기술용어는, 달리 정의되지 않는 이상, 하기의 정의를 가지며 본 발명의 관련 분야에서 통상의 당업자가 일반적으로 이해하는 바와 같은 의미에 부합된다. 또한 본 명세서에는 바람직한 방법이나 시료가 기재되나, 이와 유사하거나 동등한 것들도 본 발명의 범주에 포함된다. All technical terms used in the present invention, unless otherwise defined, have the following definitions and correspond to the meaning as generally understood by a person skilled in the art in the relevant field of the present invention. In addition, preferred methods and samples are described in this specification, but similar or equivalent methods are also included in the scope of the present invention.
용어 "약"이라는 것은 참조 양, 수준, 값, 수, 빈도, 퍼센트, 치수, 크기, 양, 중량 또는 길이에 대해 30, 25, 20, 25, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2 또는 1% 정도로 변하는 양, 수준, 값, 수, 빈도, 퍼센트, 치수, 크기, 양, 중량 또는 길이를 의미한다. The term “about” refers to a quantity, level, value, number, frequency, percent, dimension, size, amount, weight or length of 30, 25, 20, 25, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, means a quantity, level, value, number, frequency, percentage, dimension, size, volume, weight or length that varies by 4, 3, 2 or 1%.
본 명세서를 통해, 문맥에서 달리 필요하지 않으면, "포함하다" 및 "포함하는"이란 말은 제시된 단계 또는 구성요소, 또는 단계 또는 구성요소들의 군을 포함하나, 임의의 다른 단계 또는 구성요소, 또는 단계 또는 구성요소들의 군이 배제되지는 않음을 내포하는 것으로 이해하여야 한다. Throughout this specification, unless the context otherwise requires, the words "comprise" and "comprising" include a given step or component, or group of steps or components, but any other step or component, or It should be understood that this implies that no step or group of components is excluded.
본 발명은 벌나무(Acer tegmentosum) 추출물과 이의 분리화합물인 티로솔을 유효 성분으로 포함하는 화장료 조성물에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing Acer tegmentosum extract and tyrosol, an isolated compound thereof, as active ingredients.
본 발명에 사용된 벌나무(Acer tegmentosum)은 쌍떡잎식물 무환자나무목 단풍나무과의 낙엽소교목으로써,나무껍질은 매끄럽고 작은 가지는 녹색을 띄고 있으며 깊은 산의 계속에서 자란다. 벌나무의 목질은 단단하여 가구재로써 많이 이용되고 있다.The bee tree (Acer tegmentosum) used in the present invention is a deciduous tree of the maple family of the dicotyledonous plant Acer tegmentosum. The tree has smooth bark, green small branches, and grows deep in the mountains. The wood of the bee tree is hard and is often used as furniture material.
본 발명의 벌나무(Acer tegmentosum) 추출물은 당업계에 공지된 통상의 방법에 따라, 즉, 통상적인 온도와 압력의 조건하에서, 통상적인 용매를 사용하여 제조될 수 있으나, 바람직하게는 (a) 물, 탄소수 1-4의 무수 또는 함수 저급 알코올(예를 들면, 메탄올, 에탄올, 프로판올 및 부탄올), 프로필렌글리콜, 1,3-부틸렌글리콜, 글리세린, 아세톤, 디에틸에테르, 에틸 아세테이트, 부틸아세테이트, 디클로로메탄, 클로로포름, 헥산 및 이들의 혼합물로 구성된 군으로부터 선택되는 용매를 이용한 용매 추출법 (b) 이산화탄소에 의한 감압 및 고온에 의한 초임계 추출법 또는 (c) 초음파 추출법을 이용하여 추출할 수 있다. The Acer tegmentosum extract of the present invention can be prepared according to conventional methods known in the art, that is, under conventional conditions of temperature and pressure, using conventional solvents, but is preferably prepared using (a) water. , anhydrous or hydrous lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms (e.g., methanol, ethanol, propanol and butanol), propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin, acetone, diethyl ether, ethyl acetate, butylacetate, It can be extracted using a solvent extraction method using a solvent selected from the group consisting of dichloromethane, chloroform, hexane, and mixtures thereof (b) a supercritical extraction method using reduced pressure and high temperature using carbon dioxide, or (c) an ultrasonic extraction method.
본 발명에서는 바람직하게는 추출 용매를 이용한 용매 추출법을 이용하였다. 본 발명에서 벌나무(Acer tegmentosum) 추출물은 다양한 추출용매, 예를 들어, 물, 탄소수 1-4의 무수 또는 함수 저급 알코올 (예를 들면, 메탄올, 에탄올, 프로판올 및 부탄올), 프로필렌글리콜, 1,3-부틸렌글리콜, 글리세린, 아세톤, 디에틸에테르, 에틸 아세테이트, 부틸아세테이트, 디클로로메탄, 클로로포름, 헥산 및 이들의 혼합물로 구성된 군으로부터 선택되는 1종 이상의 추출 용매를 사용하여 얻을 수 있으며, 바람직하게는 에탄올, 70%(v/v) 에탄올 또는 물을 사용하여 얻어진 것이고, 가장 바람직하게는 70%(v/v) 에탄올을 사용하여 얻어진 것이다. In the present invention, a solvent extraction method using an extraction solvent was preferably used. In the present invention , the Acer tegmentosum extract is extracted with various extraction solvents, such as water, anhydrous or hydrous lower alcohols having 1-4 carbon atoms (e.g., methanol, ethanol, propanol and butanol), propylene glycol, 1,3 -It can be obtained using one or more extraction solvents selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, glycerin, acetone, diethyl ether, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, dichloromethane, chloroform, hexane, and mixtures thereof, preferably It is obtained using ethanol, 70% (v/v) ethanol or water, and most preferably is obtained using 70% (v/v) ethanol.
한편, 본 발명의 벌나무(Acer tegmentosum) 추출물은 상기한 추출 용매 뿐만 아니라, 다른 추출 용매를 이용하여도 실질적으로 동일한 효과를 나타내는 추출물이 얻어질 수 있다는 것은 당업자에게 자명한 것이다. 또한, 본 발명의 벌나무(Acer tegmentosum) 추출물은 상술한 추출 용매에 의한 추출물뿐만 아니라, 통상적인 정제 및 발효 과정을 거친 추출물도 포함한다. 예컨대, 이산화탄소에 의한 감압, 고온에 의한 초임계추출법에 의한 추출, 초음파를 이용한 추출법에 의한 추출, 일정한 분자량 컷-오프 값을 갖는 한외 여과막을 이용한 분리, 다양한 크로마토그래피 (크기, 전하, 소수성 또는 친화성에 따른 분리를 위해 제작된 것)에 의한 분리하거나 자연 상태나 각종 미생물을 이용한 발효산물에 의한 추출물 등, 추가적으로 실시된 다양한 정제 및 추출방법을 통해 얻어진 활성 분획도 본 발명의 추출물에 포함된다.Meanwhile, it is obvious to those skilled in the art that the Acer tegmentosum extract of the present invention can be obtained using not only the above-described extraction solvent but also other extraction solvents, showing substantially the same effect. In addition, the Acer tegmentosum extract of the present invention includes not only extracts using the above-described extraction solvent, but also extracts that have undergone conventional purification and fermentation processes. For example, decompression with carbon dioxide, extraction by supercritical extraction at high temperature, extraction by ultrasonic extraction, separation using an ultrafiltration membrane with a certain molecular weight cut-off value, and various chromatographies (size, charge, hydrophobicity or affinity). Active fractions obtained through various additional purification and extraction methods, such as separation by (designed for separation according to gender) or extracts from fermentation products in the natural state or using various microorganisms, are also included in the extract of the present invention.
본 발명에 따른 벌나무(Acer tegmentosum) 추출물은 발효 과정을 거친 추출물도 포함하는데 발효추출물은 다음과 같이 제조할 수 있다. 벌나무(Acer tegmentosum) 전초를 100~500메쉬 정도로 미세하게 파쇄한 다음 통상적인 미생물 배양액을 1~50g/L를 첨가하고 효모 균주 또는 유산균등의 미생물을 10,000~100,000 cfu/L의 양으로 첨가한다. 배양온도는 30~37℃의 통상적인 미생물 배양조건으로 배양한다. pH는 5~7로 호기적 또는 통상 혐기(anaerobic)적인 조건으로 약 5내지 10일간 배양한다. 이후 숙성 및 여과를 통해 얻을 수 있다. The Acer tegmentosum extract according to the present invention also includes an extract that has undergone a fermentation process, and the fermented extract can be prepared as follows. Acer tegmentosum whole plant is finely crushed to a size of 100-500 mesh, then 1-50 g/L of a typical microbial culture medium is added, and microorganisms such as yeast strains or lactic acid bacteria are added in an amount of 10,000-100,000 cfu/L. The culture temperature is 30-37°C under typical microbial culture conditions. The pH is 5 to 7 and cultured under aerobic or normally anaerobic conditions for about 5 to 10 days. It can be obtained through subsequent maturation and filtration.
본 발명에 따르면, 상기 벌나무(Acer tegmentosum) 추출물과 이의 분리화합물인 티로솔은 화장료 조성물의 전체 중량에 대해서 0.0001 ~ 30.0 중량% 함유되며, 더욱 바람직하게는, 상기 벌나무(Acer tegmentosum) 추출물과 티로솔은 화장료 조성물의 전체 중량에 대해서 0.01 ~ 10 중량% 함유되는 것을 특징으로 한다. 상기 추출물의 함량이 0.001 중량% 미만인 경우에는 피부개선 효과가 나타나지 않으며, 30.0 중량%를 초과하는 경우에는 제형상의 안전 및 안정성에 문제가 있으며 경제적이지도 못하다.According to the present invention, the Acer tegmentosum extract and tyrosol, its isolated compound, are contained from 0.0001 to 30.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and more preferably, the Acer tegmentosum extract and tyrosol are contained. It is characterized in that it is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If the content of the extract is less than 0.001% by weight, no skin improvement effect is observed, and if it exceeds 30.0% by weight, there are problems with the safety and stability of the formulation and it is not economical.
본 발명에 있어서 벌나무 추출물로부터 분리된 분리화합물인 티로솔(tyrosol)은 하기의 화학식 1에 나타내었다.In the present invention, tyrosol, a compound isolated from bee tree extract, is shown in Chemical Formula 1 below.
[화학식 1][Formula 1]
또한, 상기 벌나무 추출물과 상기 티로솔은 1:100 내지 100:1의 중량비로 포함될 수 있으며, 보다 바람직하게는 1:10 내지 10:1의 중량비로 포함될 수 있다. Additionally, the bee tree extract and the tyrosol may be included in a weight ratio of 1:100 to 100:1, and more preferably, may be included in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10:1.
본 발명의 화장료 조성물에 포함되는 성분은 유효 성분으로서 상기 유효 성분 이외에 화장료 조성물에 통상적으로 이용되는 성분들을 포함할 수 있으며, 예컨대 항산화제, 안정화제, 용해화제,비타민, 안료 및 향료와 같은 통상적인 보조제, 그리고 담체를 포함한다. 본 발명의 화장료 조성물은 당업계에서 통상적으로 제조되는 어떠한 제형으로도 제조될 수 있으며, 예를 들어, 용액, 현탁액, 유탁액, 페이스트, 겔, 크림, 로션, 파우더, 비누, 계면활성제-함유 클렌징, 오일, 분말 파운데이션, 유탁액 파운데이션, 왁스 파운데이션, 팩, 마사지크림 및 스프레이 등으로 제형화될 수 있으나, 이에 한정되는 것은 아니다. 보다 상세하게는, 유연 화장수, 영양 화장수, 영양 크림, 마사지 크림, 에센스, 아이크림, 클렌징 크림, 클렌징 폼, 클렌징 워터, 팩, 스프레이 또는 파우더의 제형으로 제조될 수 있다. The ingredients included in the cosmetic composition of the present invention are active ingredients and may include ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions in addition to the above-mentioned active ingredients, such as antioxidants, stabilizers, solubilizers, vitamins, pigments and fragrances. Includes adjuvants and carriers. The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared in any formulation commonly prepared in the art, for example, solutions, suspensions, emulsions, pastes, gels, creams, lotions, powders, soaps, surfactant-containing cleansing products. , oil, powder foundation, emulsion foundation, wax foundation, pack, massage cream and spray, etc., but is not limited thereto. More specifically, it can be manufactured in the form of softening lotion, nourishing lotion, nourishing cream, massage cream, essence, eye cream, cleansing cream, cleansing foam, cleansing water, pack, spray, or powder.
본 발명의 제형이 페이스트, 크림 또는 겔인 경우에는 담체 성분으로 서 동물성유, 식물성유, 왁스, 파라핀, 전분, 트라칸트, 셀룰로오스 유도체, 폴리에틸렌 글리콜, 실리콘, 벤토나이트, 실리카, 탈크 또는 산화아연등이 이용될 수 있다. When the formulation of the present invention is a paste, cream or gel, animal oil, vegetable oil, wax, paraffin, starch, tracant, cellulose derivatives, polyethylene glycol, silicone, bentonite, silica, talc or zinc oxide are used as carrier ingredients. It can be.
본 발명의 제형이 용액 또는 유탁액인 경우에는 담체 성분으로서 용매, 용해화제 또는 유탁화제가 이용되고, 예컨대 물, 에탄올, 이소프로판올, 에틸 카보네이트, 에틸 아세테이트, 벤질 알코올, 벤질 벤조에이트, 프로필렌글리콜, 1,3-부틸글리콜 오일, 글리세롤 지방족 에스테르, 폴리에틸렌글리콜 또는 소르비탄의 지방산 에스테르가 있다. When the formulation of the present invention is a solution or emulsion, a solvent, solubilizing agent, or emulsifying agent is used as a carrier component, such as water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, 1 , 3-butyl glycol oil, glycerol aliphatic ester, polyethylene glycol, or fatty acid ester of sorbitan.
본 발명의 제형이 현탁액인 경우에는 담체 성분으로서 물, 에탄올 또는 프로필렌글리콜과 같은 액상의 희석제, 에톡실화 이소스테아릴 알코올, 폴리옥시에틸렌 소르비톨 에스테르 및 폴리옥시에틸렌 소르비탄 에스테르와 같은 현탁제, 미소 결정성 셀룰로오스, 알루미늄 메타히드록시드, 벤토나이트, 아가 또는 트라칸트 등이 이용될 수 있다. When the formulation of the present invention is a suspension, the carrier ingredients include water, a liquid diluent such as ethanol or propylene glycol, a suspending agent such as ethoxylated isostearyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene sorbitol ester, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan ester, and microcrystals. Cellulose, aluminum metahydroxide, bentonite, agar, or tracant may be used.
본 발명의 제형이 파우더 또는 스프레이인 경우에는 담체 성분으로서 락토스, 탈크, 실리카, 알루미늄 히드록시드, 칼슘 실리케이트 또는 폴리아미드 파우더가 이용될 수 있고, 특히 스프레이인 경우에는 추가적으로 클로로플루오로히드로카본, 프로판/부탄 또는 디메틸 에테르와 같은 추진체를 포함할 수 있다. When the formulation of the present invention is a powder or spray, lactose, talc, silica, aluminum hydroxide, calcium silicate, or polyamide powder can be used as the carrier ingredient. In particular, when the formulation is a spray, chlorofluorohydrocarbon and propane may be used as carrier ingredients. /May contain propellants such as butane or dimethyl ether.
본 발명의 제형이 계면활성제 함유 클렌징인 경우에는 담체 성분으로서 지방족 알코올 설페이트, 지방족 알코올 에테르 설페이트, 설포숙신산모노에스테르, 이세티오네이트, 이미다졸리늄 유도체, 메틸타우레이트, 사르코시네이트, 지방산 아미드 에테르 설페이트, 알킬아미도베타인, 지방족알코올, 지방산 글리세리드, 지방산 디에탄올아미드, 식물성 유, 라놀린 유도체 또는 에톡실화 글리세롤 지방산 에스테르 등이 이용될 수 있다.When the formulation of the present invention is a surfactant-containing cleansing agent, the carrier ingredients include aliphatic alcohol sulfate, aliphatic alcohol ether sulfate, sulfosuccinic acid monoester, isethionate, imidazolinium derivative, methyl taurate, sarcosinate, and fatty acid amide ether. Sulfates, alkylamidobetaines, fatty alcohols, fatty acid glycerides, fatty acid diethanolamides, vegetable oils, lanolin derivatives, or ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters may be used.
본 발명의 화장료 조성물이 비누, 계면활성제 함유 클렌징 제형 또는 계면활성제 비함유 클렌징 제형일 경우, 피부에 도포한 후 닦아내거나 떼거나 물로 씻어낼 수도 있다. 구체적인 예로서, 상기 비누는 액상비누, 가루비누, 고형비누 및 오일비누이며, 상기 계면활성제 함유 클렌징 제형은 클렌징 폼, 클렌징 워터, 클렌징 수건 및 클렌징 팩이며, 상기 계면활성제 비함유 클렌징 제형은 클렌징크림, 클렌징 로션, 클렌징 워터 및 클렌징 겔이며, 이에 한정되는 것은 아니다. When the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a soap, a surfactant-containing cleansing formulation, or a surfactant-free cleansing formulation, it can be applied to the skin and then wiped off, removed, or washed with water. As a specific example, the soap is liquid soap, powdered soap, solid soap, and oil soap, the surfactant-containing cleansing formulation is cleansing foam, cleansing water, cleansing towel, and cleansing pack, and the surfactant-free cleansing formulation is cleansing cream. , cleansing lotion, cleansing water, and cleansing gel, but are not limited thereto.
이하, 실시예를 통하여 본 발명을 더욱 상세히 설명하고자 한다. 이들 실시예는 오로지 본 발명을 보다 구체적으로 설명하기 위한 것으로, 본발명의 요지에 따라 본 발명의 범위가 이들 실시예에 의해 제한되지 않는다Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail through examples. These examples are only for illustrating the present invention in more detail, and the scope of the present invention is not limited by these examples according to the gist of the present invention.
제조예 1 - 벌나무(Acer tegmentosum) 추출물 제조 Preparation Example 1 - Preparation of Acer tegmentosum extract
벌나무 전초를 깨끗한 물로 씻어 건조시킨 다음 일정한 크기로 절단하여 0 ~ 70%(V/V) 에탄올 수용액으로 5시간씩 3회 환류 추출하고 냉침한 후, 와트만(Whatman) #4 여과지로 여과하여 농축액을 얻었다.Wash the bee tree seedlings with clean water, dry them, cut them to a certain size, extract them under reflux three times for 5 hours each with 0 to 70% (V/V) ethanol aqueous solution, cool them, and filter them with Whatman #4 filter paper to obtain a concentrate. got it
제조예 2 - 티로솔 제조 Preparation Example 2 - Preparation of tyrosol
상기 제조예 1을 통해서 획득한, 벌나무 추출물 1.0kg에 10L의 1% 에탄올을 넣어 분산시킨 후 헥산 10L를 이용하여 비극성 성분을 제거하였으며(3회 반복), 이후 메틸렌클로라이드, 에틸아세테이트로 동일하게 분획하였으며 메틸렌클로라이드 분획층을 감압 농축하여 381g의 분획물을 얻었다. 이를 실리카겔(60 ~ 120mesh) 컬럼을 이용하여 유효성분 분리를 진행하였으며, 이동상으로는 CH2Cl2-EtOAc 혼합액을 이용하여 분리 정제 하였다. 전체 8개의 분획물(fraction)을 회수하였으며, UVA, UVB, IR에 의한 콜라겐 분해효소의 우수한 저해 효과를 가지는 1개의 분획물로부터 30.18g을 회수 하였으며 표준품과의 비교를 통하여 티로솔(tyrosol)임을 확인하였다.1.0 kg of the bee tree extract obtained through Preparation Example 1 was dispersed in 10 L of 1% ethanol, then non-polar components were removed using 10 L of hexane (repeated 3 times), and then equally fractionated with methylene chloride and ethyl acetate. The methylene chloride fraction layer was concentrated under reduced pressure to obtain 381 g of fraction. The active ingredients were separated using a silica gel (60 ~ 120 mesh) column, and the CH2Cl2-EtOAc mixture was used as a mobile phase to separate and purify. A total of 8 fractions were recovered, and 30.18 g was recovered from one fraction that had an excellent inhibitory effect on collagenase by UVA, UVB, and IR, and was confirmed to be tyrosol through comparison with the standard product. .
실험예 1 - MMP-1 생성 억제 효과 Experimental Example 1 - MMP-1 production inhibition effect
본 실험예 1는 상기 제조예 1에서 수득한 벌나무 추출물을 이용하여 콜라겐 분해효소인 MMP-1 생성을 억제하는 효과가 있는지의 여부를 측정하기 위해 UVA, UVB, IR에 의하여 증가되는 MMP-1의 생성을 억제하는 효과를 측정하였다. 인간 정상 피부 세포인 섬유아세포(한국 세포주 은행, 대한민국)를 48-웰 마이크로 플레이트(Nunc, 덴마크)에각 웰당 1× 106세포가 되도록 접종하고, DMEM 배지(Sigma, 미합중국) 및 37℃의 조건에서 24시간 동안 배양한 후 상기 제조예 1와 제조예2를 일정농도로 첨가한 무혈청 DMEM 배지 및 대조군으로 백당나무 추출물이 포함되지 않은 무혈청 DMEM 배지에서 48시간 동안 추가로 배양하였다. 배양 후, 각 웰의 상층액을 모아 MMP-1 분석 킷트(Amersham,미합중국)를 이용하여 새로 합성된 MMP-1의 양(ng/㎖)을 측정하고, MMP-1 생성 억제율(%)을 계산하였으며, 그 결과를 표 1 내지 4에 나타내었다.In this Experimental Example 1, the amount of MMP-1 increased by UVA, UVB, and IR was tested to determine whether the bee tree extract obtained in Preparation Example 1 was effective in inhibiting the production of MMP-1, a collagen degrading enzyme. The effect of inhibiting production was measured. Fibroblasts, which are human normal skin cells (Korean Cell Line Bank, Korea), were inoculated into 48-well microplates (Nunc, Denmark) at 1 × 10 6 cells per well, and incubated in DMEM medium (Sigma, USA) and 37°C. After culturing for 24 hours, the culture was further cultured for 48 hours in serum-free DMEM medium to which Preparation Example 1 and Preparation Example 2 were added at a certain concentration and, as a control, in serum-free DMEM medium without P. chinensis extract. After incubation, the supernatant from each well was collected, the amount of newly synthesized MMP-1 (ng/ml) was measured using an MMP-1 assay kit (Amersham, USA), and the MMP-1 production inhibition rate (%) was calculated. and the results are shown in Tables 1 to 4.
100mJ/cm2 UV
100mJ/ cm2
10ppmManufacturing Example 1
10ppm
100mJ/cm2 UV
100mJ/ cm2
Treated
15minIR
Treated
15min
1ppmManufacturing Example 1
1 ppm
Treated
15minIR
Treated
15min
상기의 실험예를 통하여 제조예 1 및 2의 MMP-1 생성 억제 효과를 확인할 수 있었으며, 특히, 제조예 1과 제조예 2가 특정 배합비로 혼합되는 경우 UV 및 IR에 의해 증가되는 MMP-1의 생성이 억제되는 효과를 확인할 수 있다.Through the above experimental example, the effect of Preparation Examples 1 and 2 on inhibiting MMP-1 production was confirmed. In particular, when Preparation Example 1 and Preparation Example 2 were mixed at a specific mixing ratio, the amount of MMP-1 increased by UV and IR was confirmed. The effect of suppressing production can be confirmed.
처방예 1 - 화장수Prescription Example 1 - Toner
제조예 1과 제조예 2를 혼합하여 포함하는 화장료 중 화장수의 처방예는 다음 표 5와 같다.Preparation examples of lotions among cosmetics containing a mixture of Preparation Example 1 and Preparation Example 2 are shown in Table 5 below.
(단위:중량%)content
(Unit: weight%)
5.0
처방예 2 - 에센스Prescription Example 2 - Essence
제조예 1과 제조예 2를 혼합하여 포함하는 화장료 중 에센스의 처방예는 다음 표 6과 같다.Preparation examples of essence among cosmetics containing a mixture of Preparation Example 1 and Preparation Example 2 are shown in Table 6 below.
(단위:중량%)content
(Unit: weight%)
(제조예1:제조예2= 10:1(중량비))mixed extract
(Manufacturing Example 1: Manufacturing Example 2 = 10:1 (weight ratio))
(제조예1:제조예2= 5:1(중량비))mixed extract
(Manufacturing Example 1: Manufacturing Example 2 = 5:1 (weight ratio))
(제조예1:제조예2= 1:5(중량비))mixed extract
(Manufacturing Example 1: Manufacturing Example 2 = 1:5 (weight ratio))
(제조예1:제조예2= 1:10(중량비))mixed extract
(Manufacturing Example 1: Manufacturing Example 2 = 1:10 (weight ratio))
3.0
0.1
실시예 1 - 벌나무 추출물과 이의 분리화합물을 함유하는 제형의 피부주름 개선 효과 Example 1 - Skin wrinkle improvement effect of a formulation containing bee tree extract and its isolated compound
실험은 처방예 2에서 제조한 제형예 5 내지 8 및 제조예 1과 제조예 2를 포함하지 않은 비교제형예의 에센스 제형을 이용하여 실험하였다. 각 그룹은 20대 남녀 20명을 선정하여, A,B,C,D 그룹에는 제형예 5 내지 6의 에센스를, B 그룹에는 비교제형예의 에센스를 1일 2회 매일 아침, 저녁 세안 후 4주간 사용하도록 하였다. 각 피검자의 피부 탄력 개선 효과를 Cutometer(C+K,독일)를 이용하여 탄력 증진 개선율을 평가하였다. 실험 결과는 하기의 표 7에 나타낸 바와 같다.The experiment was conducted using the essence formulations of Formulation Examples 5 to 8 prepared in Preparation Example 2 and the comparative formulation examples that did not include Preparation Example 1 and Preparation Example 2. Each group selected 20 men and women in their 20s. Groups A, B, C, and D received the essence of Formulation Examples 5 and 6, and Group B received the essence of Comparative Formulation Example twice a day for 4 weeks after washing their face in the morning and evening. It was intended to be used. The effect of improving skin elasticity of each subject was evaluated by using Cutometer (C+K, Germany) to improve elasticity. The experimental results are shown in Table 7 below.
본 발명의 제조예를 일정비율로 함유하는 제형예는 아무것도 함유하지 않은 비교실시예와 비교하였을 때 사용 초기와 비교하여 4주후 비교제형예와 약 2% 이상의 피부 주름 개선율을 보여주었다. When compared to the comparative example containing nothing, the formulation containing the preparation example of the present invention at a certain ratio showed an improvement rate of skin wrinkles of about 2% or more after 4 weeks compared to the initial use.
실시예 2 - 혼합 추출물을 함유하는 화장료의 자극 완화 효과 Example 2 - Irritation relieving effect of cosmetics containing mixed extracts
실험은 처방예 2에서 제조한 제형예 5 내지 8 및 제조예 1과 제조예 2를 포함하지 않은 비교제형예의 에센스 제형을 이용하여 실시하였으며, 각 그룹은 20대 남녀 20명으로 선정하여, A,B,C,D 그룹에는 혼합추출물이 함유된 제형예 5~8의 에센스를, E 그룹에는 비교제형예의 에센스를 1일 2회 매일 아침, 저녁 세안 후 4주간 사용하도록 하였다. 평가는 얼굴 양쪽면을 사용하여 4주동안 사용하면서 피부에 나타나는 자극 여부를 평가하였다.The experiment was conducted using the essence formulations of Formulation Examples 5 to 8 prepared in Preparation Example 2 and the comparative formulation examples that did not include Preparation Example 1 and Preparation Example 2. Each group was selected with 20 men and women in their 20s, A, Groups B, C, and D were asked to use the essence of Formulation Examples 5 to 8 containing mixed extracts, and Group E was asked to use the essence of Comparative Formulation Example twice a day for 4 weeks after washing their face in the morning and evening. The evaluation was conducted on both sides of the face to evaluate whether or not irritation appeared on the skin while using the product for 4 weeks.
그룹 AFormulation Example 5
Group A
그룹 EComparative formulation example
Group E
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