JPS6245717A - Polyester modified cross section thick and thin yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:The titled thick and thin yarns, having a specific mushroom-shaped cross section having a triangular pileus part and stem part and further thick fineness parts at a specific frequency in the fiber axis direction and capable of imparting dry feeling, lightweight and wild silky feeling to fabrics. CONSTITUTION:Polyester modified cross section thick and thin yarns having a mushroom-shaped cross section of single filament and satisfying the following relations; H(1)<=H(2) and K(1)>=2K(2) [H(1) is the length of a perpendicular line of a triangular pileus part passing through the middle point of a straight line connecting two inflection points of curves connecting the triangular pileus part to the stem part; H(2) is the length of the above-mentioned middle point to the point at which the perpendicular line drawn from the middle point intersects the tangent line at the tip part of the stem part at right angles; K(1) is the length of interval between two tangent lines, parallel to the perpendicular line drawn from the above-mentioned middle point and passing through end points on both sides of the pileus part; K(2) is the length of interval between two tangent parallel to the perpendicular line drawn from the above- mentioned middle point within 50% length range based on the total length of the stem part from the tip of the stem part and passing through the end points on both sides of the stem part]. The yarns have >=15 thick fineness parts/m in the fiber axis direction.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Industrial Field of Application) The present invention relates to a polyester yarn with a modified cross-section, thick and thin, which has excellent silk-like luster and feel.

(Prior Art) Many proposals and efforts have been made to make synthetic fibers, particularly polyester fibers, have a texture similar to silk.

For example, a single yarn with a trilobal irregular cross-section to improve gloss, a single yarn with finer fineness to give it drape properties, or a yarn with different shrinkage using the above yarns. It is widely known that the surface of the fabric is fluffy and soft. In this way, it has been proposed that the optical and physical properties such as the sliminess and stiffness characteristic of 2 synthetic fibers can be brought closer to the excellent performance of real silk through spinning and post-processing techniques. Introducing silk-like threads that have been devised to surpass those of others.

However, such conventionally known silk-like threads still have drawbacks.

In other words, the aforementioned silk-like thread is among the types of genuine silk.

It is a silk-like thread that resembles the texture of so-called domestic silkworms, and when made into fabric, it has a rich luster, excellent drape performance, warmth, and fluffiness, making it extremely desirable as a fashion material from autumn to winter. However, on the other hand, as a material for spring and summer, it feels too hot.
Especially in the height of summer, even though the materials are the same, we have no choice but to accept unfavorable reviews such as metallic luster and slimy, double-heavy feel.

In view of the current situation, attempts have been made to change the cross-sectional shape of the yarn from the usual three-lobed to six-lobed or even eight-lobed yarns, so-called multi-lobal cross-sectional yarns, in order to give a dry feel. As the color increases, the slimy feeling disappears and a slightly dry feeling appears, but the problem is that the large number of protrusions inhibits light reflection, resulting in dullness when dyed.

Furthermore, when the cross-sectional shape of the threads is sharpened to improve the dry feel, the surface of the fabric becomes metallic and has a luster that is not typical of a silk-like fabric.

On the other hand, in a drawing step, the undrawn yarn or semi-undrawn yarn obtained by spinning is subjected to stretching at a stretching ratio within the natural stretching ratio of the undrawn yarn or semi-undrawn yarn to develop unevenness, So-called large fine yarns in which large fineness and fine fineness portions coexist in the fiber axis direction have been proposed. A woven or knitted fabric using this thick and thin yarn can exhibit an uneven texture due to the partially existing fineness portions and fineness portions.

However, with large fine yarns having conventionally known cross-sectional shapes such as 3-lobed or 6.8-lobed, it has not been possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric with a dry or lightweight feel.

Previously, the present inventors proposed a mushroom-shaped yarn with an irregular cross section in Japanese Patent Application No. 59-20336 in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, but this yarn was not thick or thin.

Improvements were requested in terms of the natural appearance and the subtle uneven feel when the fingertips slide over it.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and has been developed to create a fabric with a gentle dry feel and lightness, as well as a rich texture and texture similar to that of wild silkworms. The technical problem is to provide a polyester yarn with a modified cross-section, thick and thin, having the texture of the present invention.

(Means for solving problems) The gist of the present invention is as follows.

The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber is a triangular umbrella and trunk,
A polyester irregular cross-section thick and thin yarn that satisfies the following formulas (1) and (II) and has a mushroom shape and has 15 or more regular fineness sections in the fiber axis direction.

H(1)≦H(2) ・−・・・−・−−−−−−
−−−(1)K (1)≧2K (2)−・・−・−
-------1.Curve (II) H(1): Length of the perpendicular line of the triangular umbrella that passes through the midpoint of the straight line connecting the two inflection points of the curve that connects the triangular umbrella to the trunk difference.

H(2): Length of the perpendicular line between the midpoint and a point perpendicular to the tangent to the tip of the trunk of the perpendicular line drawn from the midpoint.

K(1): Length of interval between two tangent lines that pass through both end points of the umbrella section and are parallel to the perpendicular line drawn from the midpoint.

K(2): Length of interval between two tangent lines passing through end points on both sides of the trunk that are parallel to a perpendicular line drawn from the midpoint within a length range of 50% of the total length of the trunk from the tip of the trunk.

As the polyester in the present invention, polyethylene terephthalate having ethylene terephthalate as a repeating unit is preferably used, but if necessary, as long as it contains 85% or more of this repeating unit, copolymerization with another third component may be used. Even if polyester is used or further a matting agent or other additives are added, there is no problem with the effects of the present invention.

Next, the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber in the present invention is composed of a triangular umbrella portion and a trunk, and has the formulas (I) and (II).
) must be mushroom-shaped.

Equation (1) defines the length relationship between the umbrella part and the trunk,
This length relationship is extremely important because it determines the porosity between single fibers or yarns when the yarn is made into a fabric. In other words, the length of the trunk H(2) is the length of the umbrella part H
If the value is less than (1), when the yarn is bundled, the umbrella part may get stuck in the trunk of other single fibers, the porosity between the single fibers will decrease, and the fabric will swell and creak when made into a fabric. The effect will be weakened. Furthermore, if the length of the trunk becomes extremely short, the bending stress of the yarn decreases, causing the fabric to lose its elasticity and become sagging.

On the other hand, the length of the trunk section H(2) is the length of the umbrella section H(1
) or more, the effect of suppressing the interlocking of single fibers occurs when the yarns are bundled, which inevitably results in a high porosity, and when this yarn is used to make a fabric.

It shows the effect of a rich bulge and a hard creak.

Next, Equation 1 (H) defines the relationship between the width of the umbrella part and the width of the trunk, and by satisfying the relationship of this equation, 2
A silk-like fabric with a smooth dry feel, which is the main objective of the present invention, can be obtained.

In other words, the width of the umbrella part K(1) is 2 of the width of the trunk K(2).
By doubling or more, the surface of the fabric becomes uneven due to the umbrella part and trunk, and when the fabric is slid with the fingertips, the contact area transmitted to the fingertips decreases, giving a dry feeling. Furthermore, by making the width K (1) of the umbrella part more than twice the width K (2) of the trunk, the above-mentioned porosity increases, and when fabric is made, it exhibits the effects of squeaks and bulges.

On the other hand, if the width K (1) of the umbrella part is less than twice the width K (2) of the trunk, the cross-sectional shape of the single fibers of the yarn becomes flat, and when it is made into a fabric, the surface unevenness disappears. As a result, the silky feel increases, making it unsuitable for use as silk-like yarn for spring and summer, which is the object of the present invention.

In addition, in this case, the angle of light reflection between the umbrella and the trunk becomes close, causing irritation on the surface of the fabric using this yarn.
It is also unfavorable from the viewpoint of gloss. In this way, by making the width K(1) of the umbrella portion more than twice the width K(2) of the trunk, a silk-like fabric with a gentle dry feel can be obtained.

However, the length of the trunk and the width of the umbrella do not need to be infinitely long. That is, if the length is longer than necessary, the hole area of the orifice will inevitably increase when spinning the yarn, which has the disadvantage of easily causing problems such as yarn breakage during spinning. Therefore, the length H(2) of the trunk should be within twice the total length H(1), more preferably within 1.5 times, and the width K(1) of the umbrella section should be
is within 6 times the width of the trunk K(2) old, more preferably 3
It is necessary to suppress it to about 5 times.

In addition, the yarn of the present invention must have a mushroom-shaped single fiber cross section as described above, and must have 15 or more fineness sections in the fiber axis direction.

By using such large and fine threads, the fabric has the natural appearance of natural fibers, and when the surface of the fabric is slid with a fingertip, a delicate unevenness is created, resulting in a woven or knitted fabric with a dry feel.

In order to impart the above-mentioned effect to the fabric, the number of fineness portions present in the fiber axis direction must be 15 pieces/m or more,
If the number of large fineness parts is less than 15/m, the large fineness parts are coarsely dispersed, and the pattern becomes uneven due to the presence of main fineness parts in the length direction or transverse direction of the fabric, resulting in a 2-grade decreases significantly. Further, when a fabric using the yarn is slid with a fingertip, the fabric feels like a foreign body, which is not preferable.

In addition, regarding the expression state of the fineness portion in the cross-sectional direction of the yarn, even if the fineness portion exists in all or some of the single fibers constituting the yarn in any cross section, the present invention does not apply. However, in order to operate efficiently during weaving or in the preparatory stage process, it is preferable that the thick and fine fineness areas exist randomly. It is possible to prevent yarn breakage due to fusion of the fineness part.

In addition, since the yarn of the present invention may be subjected to false twist crimp processing or alkaline reduction processing after knitting and weaving, it is preferable that the fineness portion has heat resistance or chemical resistance. For example 2.

It is preferable to manufacture thick and fine yarn from semi-undrawn yarn or the like which is highly oriented in advance by winding the yarn at high speed in the spinning process.

A known method can be used to obtain a large fine yarn.1 For example, when drawing an undrawn yarn or a semi-undrawn yarn, a large fine yarn can be easily obtained by bringing the Fj friction resistance material into contact in the drawing region. is obtained. As the frictional resistor, a cylindrical body made of ceramic mainly composed of alumina, titanium oxide, etc., chromium-plated matte finish steel, etc. is generally used, and is heated or cooled as necessary.

Next, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to two drawings.

Figure 1 shows the explanation of the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber of the polyester irregular cross-section thick and thin yarn of the present invention, and the H(
1), H(2), K(1), and K(2).

In Figure 1, the distance (OP) from the midpoint 0 of the straight line AB connecting the two inflection points A, , and B connecting the umbrella to the trunk to the intersection P of the perpendicular line with the edge of the umbrella is the length of the umbrella (Hfl), and the distance M (OQ) to the point Q where the perpendicular line drawn from the midpoint O of the straight line AI3 toward the tip of the trunk and the tangent MN touching the tip of the trunk are perpendicular to each other. Let be the length of the trunk H(2).

Next, the width K(1) of the umbrella is defined as the interval between tangents X and X'' parallel to the straight line 01) that touches the end points E and F on both sides of the umbrella.

In addition, within the range of 50% of the length from the tip of the trunk toward the umbrella, the interval between tangents z and z' parallel to the straight line OQ that touches both end points S and T of the trunk is defined as the width K (2) of the trunk. do.

H fl) , Hf2) and K (1) defined earlier
, K (2) can be measured by suitably enlarging a cross-sectional photograph of a single fiber taken using a microscope.

Note that FIG. 1 shows the cross-sectional shape of a single fiber of the irregular cross-section thick and thin yarn according to the present invention, and is drawn slightly asymmetrically for convenience. However, the present invention is not necessarily limited to FIG. It doesn't matter if it's symmetrical. However, true wild silk thread is complex, with a mixture of various irregular cross-sectional shapes.

It is presumed that the main body is slightly asymmetrical, giving it a creaky feel and at the same time a smooth, dry feeling.

Note that although FIG. 1 shows the cross-sectional shape at a certain point in the longitudinal direction of the single fiber, the thickness is naturally different between the thicker fineness portion and the finer fineness portion along the longitudinal direction of the yarn. However, its shape is almost the same at every point.

In addition, as shown in Fig. 1, the vertical shape in the present invention refers to a thinning of the trunk from the umbrella part, with a slight bulge, preferably straight or curved.

It narrows rapidly to form a trunk, and the cross-sectional shape shown in the schematic diagram in Figure 2 can also be said to be vertical.

The shape of the umbrella part is semicircular, and the trunk is short, which is extremely different in character from the large, thin yarn with a mushroom-shaped cross section of the present invention. When bundled or made into a fabric, the single fibers tend to get stuck together, which inevitably reduces the porosity between the single fibers, making it impossible to obtain a fabric that is squeaky or fluffy.

In addition, in the case of Figure 2, since the part from the cap to the trunk gradually becomes thinner, the effect of unevenness on the fabric surface due to the presence of the cap and trunk is extremely small, and as a result, the fabric surface becomes thinner. If you slide it with your fingertips.

The slimy feeling increases and it becomes far from a gentle dry feeling. Also, because there is little change in the angle of light reflection, it has a metallic, glittering sheen.

This is not desirable.

Regarding the regulation of the length and width between the umbrella part and the trunk in the present invention, it is preferable that all the single fibers have the same shape to some extent in order to prevent the single fibers from getting stuck together. The above formula (
It is also possible to make an appropriate difference within the ranges of I) and (II).

FIGS. 3A and 3B show examples of the orifice of the spinneret used to obtain the thick and thin yarn with irregular cross section of the present invention.

The dimensions of the orifice suitably used to obtain the irregular cross-section thick and thin yarn according to the present invention will be explained using FIG. 3(A) as an example. In the figure, L(0) is the slit length corresponding to a part of the umbrella and the trunk, and W(0) is the width thereof. On the other hand, L(1)゜L(2) is the sulin I length corresponding to the part forming the umbrella part, W(1), W(2)
indicates its width.

In order to produce the polyester fiber having a very specific cross-sectional shape of the present invention, the L(0) must be 1.0 to 3.0.
mm, W (0) is 0.03 to 0.1 On+m,
Also, L(1) and L(2) are 0.1 to 1.5 n++
++, W(1), W(2) is 0.03~0, 10m
m, later is preferably used.

Note that the ratio of the length and width between the umbrella part and the trunk of the present invention is determined not only by the dimensions of the orifice described above, but also by the discharge amount per orifice hole during spinning, the spinning temperature, and the cooling conditions for the discharged yarn. Needless to say, it changes depending on various spinning conditions.

FIGS. 3(C) and 3(D) are plan views of a spinneret orifice used for spinning a thick and thin yarn with an irregular cross section in a comparative example.

FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a drawing machine used for drawing semi-undrawn polyester multifilament yarn obtained by high-speed spinning using a spinneret having an orifice as shown in FIG. be. In the figure, l is a semi-undrawn yarn, 2 is a supply roller, 3 is a cylindrical frictional resistor, and 4
is a stretching roller.

5 is a winding body (burn). In addition, A indicates the two yarn separation points of the yarn wound around the frictional resistor, and the contact point where the yarn contacts the drawing roller, and C indicates the distance between the yarn separation point A and the yarn attachment point.

A semi-undrawn polyester multifilament yarn 1 is wound around a supply roller 2 and a drawing roller 4 several times each, drawn through a frictional resistor 3, and wound up as a pirn 5.

When the polyester fibers obtained in this way are made into a fabric, it is possible to obtain a fabric that has a hard creak, a gentle dry feel, rich fullness, and a lightness that is not seen in conventional silk-like yarns. The polyester yarn of the present invention can be said to be an extremely novel silk-like yarn, since it can provide a comfortable feeling when worn even in the height of summer.

Note that the number of fineness portions in the present invention is defined as follows.

That is, a yarn in which the fineness portion is partially present in the fiber axis direction was measured using an Evens tester manufactured by Keikiki Kogyo Co., Ltd. to determine the yarn speed and Bm.
/min, chart speed 0.25m/1IIin, sensitivity ±50%, measure thickness unevenness of 8m yarn, count peaks exceeding 10% of base waveform,
The number of fineness parts was calculated per 1 m.

(Example) Next, the present invention will be specifically explained using Examples.

Example 1 Contains 0.2% titanium oxide and has an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.6
Figure 3 (A)
The spinneret has 48 orifice holes in the shape of , and the orifice dimensions L (1), L (0), L, (2
) at a constant spinning speed of 3,000 m/m using a spinneret with various orifice dimensions L(1).
in.

Spinning temperature 290°C, polymer discharge rate 32.0 g/m
In.

Spinning was performed under the condition of yarn cooling air ffi O, 7rd/min.

Semi-undrawn yarns with different length ratios of the cap and trunk were collected. In addition, a semi-undrawn yarn was wound up for comparison using an orifice spinneret conventionally used for silk-like yarn as shown in FIGS. 3(C) and 3(D).

The semi-undrawn yarn thus obtained was used as a supply system.

Using the stretching machine shown in Fig. 4, the supply roller temperature was 80°C.
Stretching was carried out at a stretching ratio of 1.35 to obtain a yarn having a fineness of 75 deniers and a filament count of 48 filaments.

Next, the obtained threads are used as warp and weft.

Weaving with Habutae's texture, the resulting fabric is refined,
Post-processes such as presetting, alkali Kffi, and dyeing were performed to obtain plain dyed fabrics of the same color.

Table 1 summarizes the results of three-level evaluation of this fabric in terms of dry feel, squeak, bulge, and stiffness.

Table 1 However, the evaluation was conducted assuming that it would be worn during midsummer.9
Ranked as follows.

[A]: Very good, (B): Good.

[C]: Poor In addition to the above-mentioned items, the overall evaluation was made by taking into account the natural appearance and unevenness.

Example 2 Using the same polyethylene terephthalate as in Example 1,
Using a spinneret with 48 orifices shaped as shown in Fig. 3 (A), the orifice dimensions L (1) and 0) were kept constant, and the orifice dimension L (2) and the orifice angle θ were varied. Spinning, drawing and weaving were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 using a spinneret.

Post-processing was performed to obtain plain-dyed habutae fabrics with various umbrella widths.

The obtained fabric was evaluated for dryness, squeak, etc. in the same manner as in Example 1, and the results are summarized in Table 2.

Table 2 Example 3 In Example 2, the same polyethylene terephthalate as in Examples 1 and 2 was used, and a spinneret having 48 orifices in the shape of FIG. 3(A) was used.

Using the spinneret of Test Light 2-3, which had an extremely good evaluation, the yarn was spun in the same manner as in Example 1.2, and the resulting semi-undrawn yarn was used as a supply system under the drawing conditions.

Only the distance C between the yarn separation point A of the cylindrical frictional resistor 3 and the welding point C of the stretching roller 4 in the stretching region was changed to obtain yarns with different numbers of large fineness sections.

Regarding the habutae woven fabric obtained by weaving, post-processing, and plain dyeing these threads in the same manner as in Examples 1 and 2.

The results of the same evaluation as above are summarized in Table 3.

Table 3 As is clear from Table 3, 3-3 has an uneven pattern and is somewhat unsatisfactory in terms of natural appearance.Also, when you slide the fabric with your fingertips, it feels like a foreign body and there are subtle unevenness. I was lacking in emotion.

(Effects of the Invention) The polyester irregular cross-section thick and thin polyester yarn of the present invention has a vertical cross-section consisting of a triangular umbrella portion and a trunk portion.

Since the above formulas (1) and (II) are satisfied, there is an advantage that the fabric can be given a supple dry feeling, a lightweight feeling, and a crisp feeling. Because of the presence of large fineness areas, it has a natural appearance and a subtle uneven feel, and exhibits a texture similar to wild silk thread, which is particularly suitable as a material for midsummer wear.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of a monofilament of a polyester yarn with irregular cross section, thick and thin, according to the present invention, Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of a single fiber of a conventional thick and thin polyester yarn with an irregular cross section, and Fig. 3 is a schematic diagram of a single fiber of polyester yarn with irregular cross section, thick and fine yarn of the present invention. Specific examples of orifice shapes suitable for spinning ((A), (B))
FIG. 3 is a plan view showing the shape of an orifice ((C), (D)) used for spinning a yarn with an irregular cross section in a comparative example. FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a drawing machine used to draw undrawn yarn or semi-undrawn yarn with irregular cross section into thick and thin yarn with irregular cross section.

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber is composed of a triangular umbrella part and a trunk, has a mushroom-like shape that satisfies the following formulas (I) and (II), and has 15 or more fibers/m in the fiber axis direction. Polyester irregular cross-section thick and thin yarn with fineness. H(1)≦H(2)・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・
・・・・・・・・・(I)K(1)≧2K(2)・・
・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・(I
I) H(1): Length of the perpendicular to the triangular umbrella that passes through the midpoint of the straight line connecting the two inflection points of the curve that connects the triangular umbrella to the trunk. H(2): Length of the perpendicular line between the midpoint and a point perpendicular to the tangent to the tip of the trunk of the perpendicular line drawn from the midpoint. K(1): Length of interval between two tangent lines that pass through both end points of the umbrella section and are parallel to the perpendicular line drawn from the midpoint. K(2): Length of interval between two tangent lines passing through end points on both sides of the trunk that are parallel to a perpendicular line drawn from the midpoint within a length range of 50% of the total length of the trunk from the tip of the trunk.