JPS61252340A - Lining cloth and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to a lining that has excellent heat retention and touchability despite being thin.

[Prior art]

Traditionally, linings need to be thin, light, and have good flexibility and drapability.

As such a lining material, a lining made of a filament fabric such as benvelub or synthetic fiber is well known. However, such filament-based linings have the disadvantage of lacking heat retention.

In addition, there are examples in which raised knitted fabrics made of spun yarn have been applied to the lining, but these raised products have no choice but to use large denier yarns due to their tear strength, and therefore the fabric is thick, Although it had good heat retention, it was heavy and had poor drape, so it could hardly be called a lining.

In addition, some attempts have been made to improve heat retention by raising filament fabrics, but in this case too, it was not possible to reduce the thickness of the fabric, and the flexibility, drapability, and even anti-build properties were not improved. In this respect, it was unsatisfactory as a lining material.

[Problem that the invention seeks to solve]

The present invention provides a lining that has excellent heat retention and touch properties despite being thin, and also satisfies flexibility, drapability, and anti-build properties at the same time.

[Structure of the invention]

The present invention has the following configuration in order to improve the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art and achieve the above-mentioned objects. That is,
A woven fabric with a basis weight of 150 g/m or less, in which at least one of the warp and weft yarns is made of substantially untwisted composite yarns composed of two types of filament fiber bundles with different single yarn finenesses. , a lining characterized in that on at least one surface of the woven fabric, raised naps are formed by cutting fiber bundles having a relatively small fineness among the fiber bundles constituting the composite yarn, and manufacturing means therefor. As a result, at least one of the warp or weft is composed of at least two types of filament fiber bundles with different filament finenesses, and the fibers in the fiber bundle with relatively small filament finenesses are more susceptible to heat than other fiber bundles. Using a substantially untwisted composite yarn with low shrinkage, a woven fabric is heat-treated to have a basis weight of 150 g/d or less, and then at least one side of the fabric is heated. It consists of a method of hair raising treatment.

The basic technical configuration of the present invention is to use a composite yarn composed of a plurality of types of filament fiber bundles as at least one of the warp and weft of the fabric. Incidentally, such a composite yarn may be used for both the warp and the weft of the fabric, but if it is used for only one, any yarn can be used for the other yarn. Incidentally, the filament fiber bundle of the present invention may be of any type as long as it is composed of filaments of natural or synthetic fibers commonly used in fabrics.

Examples of such synthetic fibers include polyester, polyamide, and polyacrylonitrile.

Examples include fibers made of polypropylene, vinyl chloride, rayon, cellulose acetate, and derivatives thereof. Furthermore, silk is an example of natural fiber.

The filament fiber bundle of the present invention may contain two or more types of synthetic fibers as long as the shrinkage rate and single fiber fineness are satisfied, and other fibers such as natural fibers may be used as long as the purpose of the present invention is not impaired. may be mixed.

The composite yarn used in the present invention is required to have a function of internally retaining a large number of fine napped fibers formed on one surface of the fabric, and for this reason, at least two types of composite yarn with different single yarn finenesses are required. It is preferable that the filament fiber bundle is composed of. Furthermore, it is necessary that the above-mentioned at least two types of filament fiber bundles are bundled and aggregated in a substantially untwisted state in the composite yarn.

In addition, in order to cause the fiber bundles with small fineness to be mainly raised, in the composite yarn, fiber bundles with small single fiber fineness are
It is necessary that the filament fibers are mainly arranged on the surface of the composite yarn, and therefore it is preferable to provide a yarn length difference between each filament fiber bundle in the composite yarn. More specifically, it is preferable that the yarn length of the filament fiber bundle having a relatively smaller single filament fineness is larger than the yarn length of the other filament fiber bundles. As an example of means for forming such a state, it is preferable that one of the filament fiber bundles constituting the composite yarn is thin and has low shrinkage, and the other is thick and has high shrinkage. and,
It is necessary to adopt a woven structure in which thin synthetic fibers stand out on the surface of the woven fabric and thick, high-shrinkage synthetic fibers are relatively located inside the woven fabric.

Of course, the above technical aspect is just one example, and it goes without saying that any means that can create a yarn length difference can be adopted. It is also possible to use a method in which yarn length differences are created by overfeeding the yarn.

The fineness of the relatively small filament fiber bundle used in the composite yarn of the present invention must be less than 1.5 d, preferably 0.5 d to 1.2 d, and the fibers can be raised It has the effect of improving heat retention. Generally speaking, the thinner the material, the better the heat retention effect and texture.

On the other hand, if the single yarn fineness is 1.5 d or more, the feel will be poor and the heat retention effect will also be reduced.

On the other hand, the single filament fineness of the filaments constituting the other filament fiber bundles only needs to be larger than the upper limit of the single filament fineness of the former, and is a filament whose single yarn fineness is 1.5 d or more, preferably 2 d or more, This fiber component constitutes the interior of the fabric, and has the effect of causing the thin fibers to stand out on the fabric surface due to large shrinkage stress. If it is less than 1.5d, this effect cannot be satisfactorily achieved.

According to the preferred embodiment of the present invention described above, it is preferable to combine a filament fiber bundle with a thin single filament fineness and a filament fiber bundle with a thick single filament fineness, and also to have a difference in heat shrinkability. More specifically, the heat shrinkage rate of a filament fiber bundle having a thin single yarn fineness is lowered, and conversely, the heat shrinkage rate of a filament fiber bundle having a thick single yarn fineness is increased.

The yarn length difference between the low-shrinkage fiber and the high-shrinkage fiber of the present invention must be 5% or more, preferably 8%, and more preferably 10% or more. The shrinkage stress of this fiber component causes low shrinkage fibers (
In order to make the thin fibers stand out on the surface of the fabric, the shrinkage difference needs to be at least 5%, preferably 8% or more. If the shrinkage difference is less than 5%, a yarn length difference of 5% or more cannot be obtained between the low-shrinkage fibers and the high-shrinkage fibers. Not only is it impossible to obtain a nap that satisfies the touch properties, but also thick fibers are raised, resulting in a bulky fabric that does not satisfy the condition of being a thin fabric.

What is the yarn length difference between the two fiber bundles constituting the composite yarn in the present invention? Because the composite yarn of the napped fabric in the present invention has been subjected to a raising process, it is not possible to directly measure the yarn length difference.
From the processing conditions under which the napped fabric of the present invention was created, a composite yarn was taken out from a fabric processed under the same conditions without the napping treatment, and two points were marked. After that, the fibers are separated into thick high shrinkage fibers and fine low shrinkage fibers, and first, the length between two points when a load of 1 g/d is applied to the large fineness high shrinkage fibers is 11, Similarly, the length between two points of the fine, low shrinkage fiber is set to 12.

Sono ratio ((I!r -1g)/j!II X10
0 is taken as the yarn length difference.

The napped fabric according to the present invention is characterized by being thin and having extremely high fabric strength, and therefore, the basis weight of the fabric is 150 g/d or less.

Next, in order to make the napped fabric for lining according to the present invention sufficiently stand out with the napped fabric, which has excellent heat retention properties, and to obtain sufficient strength, the blending amount of low-shrinkage fibers and high-shrinkage fibers should be adjusted to a specific range. Preferably controlled.

That is, 75 to 40% by weight of thin, low shrinkage fibers and 25 to 60% by weight of thick, high shrinkage fibers are mixed. In particular, it is preferable that the amount of thick high-shrinkage fibers is less than that of thin fibers, and it is preferable that the amount of thick, highly shrinkable fibers is 30 to 50% by weight.

The nap-forming yarn of the present invention is characterized in that it is composed of these two types of synthetic fibers in a substantially untwisted state.

That is, by using non-twisted yarn, the interference caused by twisting is eliminated and the thin fibers are more likely to stand out. Here, the term "substantially untwisted" means that there is no problem even if there is a low level of twist that does not interfere with the above-mentioned embossing performance.

In addition, when plying and twisting, the layered structure of thin and thick fibers is destroyed, and in extreme cases, thin fibers may be wrapped in thick fibers, making it difficult to raise only thin fibers and making it difficult to raise thick fibers as well. This can lead to increased bulk, poor touch, and even lower fabric strength.

Next, to discuss the weaving structure and thread usage of the napped fabric for lining according to the present invention, the woven fabric in the present invention does not need to be limited in its weaving structure as long as it is normally used for thin fabrics, but for example, A fabric having a weave structure consisting of a plain texture, twill texture, satin texture, etc. or a modified tissue thereof is applied.

Here, the weight of thin fabric is 150g/rr? Hereinafter, it refers to a woven fabric preferably having a weight of 120 g/m2 or less. If the basis weight exceeds the above range, it becomes difficult to expect performance as a lining, and the texture, touch, drape, and flexibility of the fabric itself deteriorates, and problems also arise in terms of lightness. do.

In order to make the fabric woven using the above yarn into the napped fabric of the present invention, it is subjected to heat treatment and napping treatment.

Heat treatment in the present invention refers to hot water or steam treatment at 80 to 180°C and dry heat treatment at 150 to 200°C, and generally includes relaxing scouring with hot water at 96°C, dyeing at 120 to 135°C, and dyeing at 170°C. Heat setting at ~200°C, etc. By these heat treatments, when the fabric is shrunk by 5 to 30%, preferably by 10% to 30% in the width direction, the low shrinkage fibers float on the surface of the fabric and improve its napping properties.

In the present invention, raised hair refers to cut fibers, fibrillated fibers, etc. that are produced by raising treatment, and the length thereof does not matter.

Means for napping include cloth, sandpaper, sand cloth, and a whetstone. Among these, it is preferable to raise the fluff with sandpaper.

The expression that the nap of the present invention is substantially composed of fine fibers means that 90% or more of the raised fibers are composed of fine fibers.

The napped fabric for lining of the present invention may be subjected to water-repellent treatment, resin treatment, coating treatment, lamination treatment, metal vapor deposition treatment, etc. on the glossy surface.

Example 1 Polyester filament fiber bundle A, 50 denier, 24 filaments, spring water shrinkage rate 29%, 75 denier, 9
Fiber bundle B made of 6-filament polyester false-twisted yarn with spring water shrinkage rate of 5% and polyester fiber bundle C of 50 denier and 18 filament spring water shrinkage rate of 8% were used, and fiber bundle A was used as the weft at 40% by weight. False twisted yarn B60
Using untwisted composite yarns with the weight percentages aligned and mixed, fiber bundle C was used for the warp yarns, and a plain weave fabric with a density of 110 yarns/1 nch of warp yarns and a density of 80 yarns/1 nch of weft yarns with a basis weight of 65 g/rtr was made. Ta.

When this fabric was treated with a relaxing scouring machine 5OFCER (manufactured by Nippon Senzo Kikai ■) at a temperature of 96° C. for 40 seconds and dried, it shrunk by 23.5% in the width direction and by 7.3% in the length direction. It was heat-set at a temperature of 180° C. for 30 seconds using a pin tenter (manufactured by Toshi, Engineering ■), and raised three times using a sanding machine (manufactured by Meisho Seisakusho ■). Thereafter, dyeing was carried out at a temperature of 130° C. for 40 minutes using a regular dyeing machine (manufactured by Himiki Seisakusho ■).

[Staining conditions]

Dianix Navy Blue, ER-FS (bidisperse dye manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei ■)...2.8% o, w, f
RAP-50 (manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Co., Ltd.: dispersant)...0.5g
/J.

Bath ratio 1:20 After dyeing treatment, reduction washing, drying, 30% at a temperature of 170℃
Second heat setter.

The resulting woven fabric has a yarn length difference of 19% between fine and thick denier yarns, and the raised portion is essentially composed of fine denier yarns, so it has excellent heat retention and is rich in flexibility with a suede-like touch. The results of the ICI method pilling test were also satisfactory, with grade 4 and no pilling.

Comparative Example 1 Processing was carried out under exactly the same conditions as in Example 1, except that a yarn of 75 denier, 36 filaments, and a water conduction shrinkage rate of 4% was used as the false twisted yarn B of Example 1.

The resulting fabric was coarse and hard with little nap, and lacked heat retention.

Example 2 Water conduction shrinkage rate of 75 denier, 36 filament 30.5
% polyester filament fiber bundle D, 50 denier, 72 filaments, a fiber bundle E consisting of a false twisted yarn with a water conduction shrinkage rate of 4.5%, and as a weft, a fiber bundle D of 60% and a false twisted yarn of 40% was used. Using an untwisted composite yarn with the weight percentages aligned and mixed, the same fiber bundle C as in Example 1 was used for the warp, the warp density was 108/1nch, and the weft density was 88/1n.
A plain weave fabric with a fabric weight of 70 g/resistance was made from ch.

When this fabric was subjected to relaxing scouring under the same conditions as in Example 1, it was found that 24.8% in the width direction and 6.8% in the length direction
It shrank. Thereafter, the fabric was processed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the yarn length difference between the thin and thick denier yarns was 21%, and although there was less napped than in Example 1, the napped portion was substantially composed of fine denier yarns. Because of this, it was a fabric with excellent heat retention.

Further, the results of the pilling test were also satisfactory, with no pilling.

〔Effect of the invention〕

The present invention provides a lining that is excellent in heat retention and touch, and also satisfies flexibility, drapability, and anti-pilling properties, and is extremely suitable as a lining for clothing in winter, and is also a material for winter clothing. There is no need to choose a specific fabric.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Substantially untwisted composite yarn composed of at least two types of filament fiber bundles having different single yarn finenesses is used as at least one of the warp or weft, and the basis weight is 150 g/m.
^2 or less, and is characterized in that at least one surface of the fabric has raised naps formed by cutting fiber bundles with a relatively small fineness among the fiber bundles constituting the composite yarn. lining. 2. The single fiber fineness of one fiber bundle constituting the composite yarn is 1.5.
2. The lining according to claim 1, wherein the fiber diameter of the other fiber bundle is 1.5 d or more. 3. The composition ratio of fiber bundles with a single yarn fineness of less than 1.5 d in the composite yarn is 40 to 75% by weight, and the single yarn fineness is 1.
．． The lining according to claim 2, wherein the composition ratio of fiber bundles of 5 d or more is 60 to 25% by weight. 4. The yarn length difference between the multiple types of fiber bundles that make up the composite yarn is 5%.
The lining according to claim 1 above. 5. Among the plural types of fiber bundles constituting the composite yarn, the single fiber fineness of the fiber bundle with a longer yarn length is smaller than the single yarn fineness of the fiber bundle with a smaller yarn length, Claim 4 Lining as stated. 6. At least one of the warp or weft is composed of at least two types of filament fiber bundles having different single yarn finenesses,
In addition, the fibers of the fiber bundle with a relatively small single yarn fineness have a relationship that heat shrinkage is small compared to other fiber bundles, and by using substantially untwisted composite yarn, A method for producing a lining fabric, which comprises heat-treating a fabric woven to a weight of 150 g/m^2 or less, and then subjecting at least one side of the fabric to a napping treatment. 7. The scope of claims in which, among the fiber bundles constituting the composite yarn, the fiber bundles with low heat shrinkability have a single yarn fineness of less than 1.5 d, and the single yarn fineness of other fiber bundles has a single yarn fineness of 1.5 d or more. The method for manufacturing the lining according to item 6. 8. The method for producing a lining according to claim 6, wherein there is a difference of 5% or more in thermal shrinkage rate between the fiber bundles constituting the composite yarn.