JPH026321B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to improved skin care compositions for moisturizing and soothing the skin. In particular, it relates to cosmetic skin conditioner lotions or creams based on emulsified petrolatum or mineral oil. Consumers have long desired moisturizing preparations in the form of hand and body lotions or creams that provide a cosmetically pleasing tactile feel when applied. The desirable properties of mineral oil and petrolatum have been recognized primarily because of their beneficial effects on the skin. These ingredients are neutral, stable, and odorless.
Moreover, it is almost non-volatile under atmospheric conditions. Petrolatum in particular has been used for over 50 years, both alone and as an ingredient in skin care products. It is hygroscopic and is believed to help care for the skin as it causes moisture to be stored in the stratum corneum. Respected dermatology researcher A.M. Kligman recently published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Volume 93, pp. 27-35, April 1, 1978,
In a scientific paper titled "Regression Method for Assessing Moisturizer Efficacy," Vaseline is the unrivaled moisturizer when it comes to potency.
Gligman reports that petrolatum is a clinging substance that stays in place for long periods of time, filling in bumps and smoothing the surface. Petrolatum and other effective greases are abrasion resistant, reduce wear and tear, and, perhaps most importantly, contain substances that penetrate the barrier of the stratum corneum, altering the epidermis and increasing its Kligman hypothesizes that if the dew point is low, abnormal peeling will not occur. Kligman believed that moisturizers had undisclosed medicinal effects on epidermal physiology. He further observed that: “Creating moisturizers is still an art based on a poor scientific foundation, a trial-and-error endeavor. It has long been known that petrolatum is very difficult to formulate to a satisfactory aesthetic condition, and therefore However, it is not included in many commercially available skin care products. Petrolatum or petroleum jelly is sticky, unpleasant and cosmetically unacceptable when applied to the skin. To reduce the sticky appearance and undesirable texture when applied to the skin,
Attempts have been made to emulsify petrolatum into cream and lotion forms. Petrolatum itself in lotion form is inherently unstable. Generally, by adding conventional water-soluble detergent emulsifiers to stabilize petrolatum or mineral oil, the moisture retention properties of petrolatum are reduced and become unsatisfactory. As used herein, the term "conditioning" or "conditioning" refers to the deposition of a pliable film on the skin;
This film slows the loss of water from the epidermis and restores it once the skin's surface remains soft and smooth. As used herein, the term "moisturizing" or "moisturizing" refers to the formation of a cosmetically acceptable film on the skin, which reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). reduce A product is said to "moisturize" when water that would normally be lost to the air accumulates in the stratum corneum. This accumulation keeps the skin moisturized. A satisfactory skin care composition having good moisturizing and conditioning properties, in addition to having cosmetically acceptable texture properties, should exhibit satisfactory sensation, smoothness and absorbency when applied to the skin. In particular, the composition should exhibit good consistency, should be applied evenly to the skin, should be absorbed quickly and should dry quickly. After application, the skin should feel smooth and clean. The composition should help reduce the feeling of dry, hard skin and should also soothe irritated skin. To date, the prior art as well as commercially available cosmetic preparations have failed to achieve all of the desired properties mentioned above. US Pat. No. 3,818,105 discloses a composition containing cetyl alcohol, a fatty alkyldimethylbenzylammonium compound, and mineral oil in a skin smoothing formulation. Optionally, it contains an organic ester dispersion medium, a fumectant, white oil, and petrolatum. US Pat. No. 4,137,302 discloses a cosmetic composition containing an emollient consisting of cetyl alcohol, isopropyl palmitate and petrolatum. Various cationic emulsifiers are also disclosed. US Pat. No. 3,829,563 discloses petrolatum and aliphatic alcohols in foaming detergents. US Pat. No. 3,666,690 teaches skin cleansing compositions containing mineral oil, certain cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, humectants, and thickeners. Cosmetic compositions containing petroleum jelly in combination with conventional cosmetic ingredients are disclosed in US Pat. Nos. 3,392,040, 3,609,102 and 3,981,990. In recent years, Wondra's "Vaseline"
Intensive care lotion (“Vaseline”)
Attempts have been made to improve skin care compositions with the introduction of products such as Intensive Care Lotion and Senuouly Silky. These products have various drawbacks. In general, the composition forms a film that is distinctly oily and sticky in texture upon application. The applied film tends to be removed by water without any particular resistance and does not provide the user with a level of moisture that is considered satisfactory for applying makeup. It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a skin care composition which does not have the drawbacks and deficiencies of the prior art, which exhibits a cosmetically acceptable tactility while at the same time providing improved moisturizing and conditioning properties. According to the present invention, a skin care composition for moisturizing and soothing the skin having cosmetically acceptable tactile properties comprises a mixture of petrolatum, a mixture of hydrocarbon substances and a portion sufficient to moisturize and soothe the skin. petrolatum or mineral oil substituted with quaternary ammonium compound in an amount sufficient to emulsify the petrolatum or mineral oil and soothe the skin, wherein R ₁ and R ₂ are approximately is a linear alkyl group, R ₃ and R ₄ are each a lower alkyl group having about 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and
is a salt-forming anion); an amount of fatty alcohol sufficient to stabilize the emulsion and to provide a cosmetically acceptable viscosity; and an amount sufficient to improve the tactility of the composition. water-out consisting of an aliphatic ester softener
Consists of emulsion. A significant feature of the invention is that di-lower alkyl,
Di-higher alkyl, ammonium emulsifier for the oil used in this invention. This cationic surfactant is the primary emulsifier and is also believed to soften and protect the skin. Cationic surfactants make products by emulsifying oil in water, and when applied to the skin, when the aqueous phase evaporates, the cationic surfactants form a water-repellent layer on the skin. help. The compositions of the present invention were formulated to provide overall balanced properties to the product. The compositions of the invention provide improved cosmetic properties, lubricity, rapid absorption, and likewise aid in the water repellency of the entire residual layer remaining on the skin after application. The compositions of the present invention overcome the otherwise unacceptable stickiness of petrolatum and mineral oils and provide products with improved moisturizing and conditioning properties. Prior art skin conditioning lotions that use water-soluble cleansing surfactants as emulsifiers, such as triethanolamine stearate, polyethylene glycol (100) stearate, etc., do not provide effective skin moisturizing effects. These conventional water-soluble surfactants generally have an unacceptably greasy and greasy feel after application. What's more, the film on this product comes off easily when soaked in water. For a better understanding of the invention, preferred embodiments will now be described in further detail. Petrolatum suitable for use in the present invention comprises any grade of white petrolatum or yellow petrolatum that is recognized as safe for application to human skin. The preferred type is petrolatum USPXVIII or NFXII. Generally, any art-recognized degree of petrolatum viscosity or consistency can be used in the present invention. It is within the scope of this invention to partially replace petrolatum with a mixture of hydrocarbon materials that can be formed into petrolatum similar in appearance and consistency. For example, such mixtures can be formed by melting mineral oil in various proportions with materials such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, and the like. The mineral oil used in the present invention may be USP grade or
It should be NF grade white mineral oil and also at 40℃.
Viscosity of 6.7~69cst, specific gravity of 0.828~0.890 (SG15.6
/15.6°C) and a maximum pour point of -18 to -7°C. The preferred mineral oil is
It should have a viscosity of 6.7 to 17.0 cst, a specific gravity of 0.828 to 0.860, and a maximum pour point of about -7°C to 10°C. The quaternary ammonium emulsifier of the present invention has the following general formula. where R ₁ and R ₂ are long chain generally linear alkyl groups each having from about 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and R ₃ and R ₄ each have from about 1 to 3 carbon atoms. is a lower alkyl group, and
is a salt-forming anion. Preferably, the salt-forming anion is chloride, bromide or iodide.
Cationic emulsifiers are preferably those that exhibit hard, waxy, non-tacky properties. Generally, when long chain alkyl groups less than _C16 , ethoxylated cationic, or mono long chain alkyl groups are used, the viscosity of the resulting formulation is reduced to unacceptable levels. In addition to emulsifying, skin-softening and skin-protecting properties, this quaternary compound is believed to offer yet other unique characteristics when applied to the skin. As a cationic surfactant, this quaternary emulsifier carries a positive charge. Generally, cleaning agents and soaps are anionic and carry a negative charge. When cationic emulsifiers come into contact with soaps and cleansers remaining on the skin, insoluble complex salts are formed. When not complexed, residual soaps and detergents can cause irritation. Application of a cationic emulsifier should prevent this residual irritation from occurring. The most preferred quaternary emulsifier is dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride. The fatty alcohol used in the present invention helps stabilize the emulsion and helps the composition support a cosmetically acceptable viscosity. Generally, C ₁₄ to C ₂₂ approximately saturated alkanols are used. Typical examples of suitable aliphatic alcohols include stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and isocetyl alcohol. Improved results have been obtained and therefore preference is given to the use of cetyl alcohol. If desired, cetyl alcohol may be used alone or in combination with other aliphatic alcohols,
In particular, it may be used in combination with isostearyl alcohol. The aliphatic ester softener of the present invention is used in an amount sufficient to improve the tactility of the composition. In particular, the aliphatic ester helps soften the petrolatum, quaternary emulsifier and fatty alcohol base formulation. Typical aliphatic esters used in the present invention include isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, 2-ethylhexyl isononoate, 2-Ethylhexyl stearate, _C12 - _C16
Included are fatty alcohol lactate, isopropyl lanolate, 2-ethyl-hexyl salicylate, and mixtures thereof. A preferred aliphatic ester is isopropyl palmitate. The amount of water or aqueous excipient to be included in the composition of the invention will vary depending on the desired consistency of the final product. Since the composition of the present invention is an oil-in-water emulsion, by changing the amount of water present,
For example, it is possible to form thick fluid liquids, lotions, semi-liquid thick creams, pastes, etc. Preferably, deionized water is used as the aqueous vehicle. If desired, humectants may be present in the compositions of the invention. Humectants are believed to be trapped in the interstices of the superficial stratum corneum, where they act as hygroscopic agents, increasing the amount of water retained in this area. Moisture is delivered by the humectant as required and thus contributes to the suppleness of the skin surface. Typical humectants used in the present invention are propylene glycol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol, etc. and mixtures thereof. Such humectants can be used in addition to or partially in place of deionized water. A particularly preferred humectant is glycerin, which, apart from its water-binding properties, is also believed to visibly improve the appearance of dry skin. To improve the lubricity of the composition during application, it may be desirable to use a liquid such as silicone oil or dimethylpolysiloxane or other prior art polysiloxanes. Generally, the viscosity of silicone oil at a temperature of 25°C is about 5 centistokes.
It is 12,500 centistokes. Typical polysiloxanes used in this invention include dimethylpolysiloxane (CTFA name dimethicone, dimethylpolysiloxane endblocked with trimethyl units), diethylpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane-diphenylpolysiloxane, cyclomethicone, trimethyl Included are polysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixtures thereof. Best results are obtained with dimethylpolysiloxanes having viscosities between 10 and 1000 centistokes. Other conventional additives typically used in cosmetic compositions may also be used. Balms can be used to mask the odor of the base and provide cosmetic appeal. Non-toxic and compatible dyes may be used to color the composition if desired. Preservatives such as methylparaben or other esters of parahydroxybenzoic acid can be used. Preservatives such as formaldehyde and the like can also be used if desired. Additionally, other conventional softeners, emulsifiers, thickeners, and other cosmetic additives may be used in small amounts. In addition, other ingredients can be used to advantageously provide particularly tailored cosmetic compositions. For example, sunburn additives such as octyldimethyl para-aminobenzoic acid can be used in the compositions of the present invention in amounts from about 1% to 8% by weight of the total composition. To make a skin protection composition, ingredients such as zinc oxide are added to the composition.
It can be provided in amounts from 0.5% to 3% by weight. As a medicament, various essential oils such as menthol can be used in amounts ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight of the composition. The percentages of ingredients used herein are by weight of the total composition unless otherwise indicated. Generally, the compositions of the present invention contain about 1%
from about 10%, preferably from about 1% to 6% petrolatum or mineral oil; from about 2% to 12%, preferably from about 2% to 7%, a cationic emulsifier; from about 1.5% to 5%, preferably from about 1.5% to 3.0% aliphatic alcohol; about 1% to 8%, preferably about 1
% to 5% aliphatic ester; and the remainder an aqueous excipient, preferably deionized water. Generally, the compositions of the present invention should contain no less than about 25% water if a creamy composition is desired and no more than about 50% water; a lotion or liquid composition is desired. If it is about 75
and should contain no more than about 95% water. The preferred form is about 75% to 85
% water. The amount of humectant commonly used ranges from about 0 to
10%, preferably about 2% to 7%;
The amount of silicone oil used is about 0 to 5%, and preferably about 0.1 to 1%; the amount of fragrance used is about 0.005% to 2%;
Preferably it is about 0.01% to 0.2%; and the amount of preservative is preferably about 0.1% to 0.2%. Generally, the total amount of non-volatile components in the compositions of the invention can vary from about 8% to 50%, and preferably from about 15% by weight of the composition.
It is 25% by weight. The compositions of the present invention are generally prepared by dispersing the fatty alcohol and the cationic emulsifier in petrolatum or mineral oil. The resulting dispersion is heated with stirring to a temperature of about 170°C (77°C to 88°C) to form a hot oil phase. Mix the aqueous excipients, colorants, and preservatives, stirring to approx.
℃) to form a hydrothermal phase. The hot oil phase is then added to the hydrothermal phase and the resulting dispersion is stirred until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Cool the mixture to a temperature of about 90°C and add the flavoring while stirring until a homogeneous product is obtained. Depending on the amount of aqueous excipient used, a homogeneous lotion or cream is produced. The skin care compositions of the present invention are applied topically in a conventional manner. Generally, the composition is poured from the container and applied gently to the skin. The composition absorbs quickly and leaves the skin with a soft and smooth appearance. The following examples serve to further illustrate preferred embodiments of the invention. Example 1 A skin care composition of the invention is prepared as follows: In a jacketed kettle, place 25% of the deionized water used for preparation. Dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride, petrolatum, cetyl alcohol, isopropyl palmitate, dimethicone (supplied as dimethyl polysiloxane liquid, Dow Corning - DC225 liquid), methyl and propyl paraben preservative and glycerin are then added. About 180ml of mixture
Heat slowly to a temperature between (82°C) and 190°C (88°C). Meanwhile, the mixture is stirred with sufficient shear and rotation to obtain a homogeneous mixture. Stirring continues for approximately 30 minutes. Thereafter, the remaining water is slowly added at an addition temperature of about 50° to 70° C. (10° C. to 21° C.) with continued and increasing stirring. After adding all the water, this mixture results in a temperature of 90ⓓ to 110ⓓ (32°C to 43°C). The fragrance is then added with stirring until a homogeneous lotion forms. The resulting skin care product is applied to the skin as needed to alleviate dry skin syndrome. The skin care composition thus formed has the following ingredients.

【table】

Table: Example 2 A skin care lotion having the following composition was prepared substantially according to the process described in Example 1.

[Table] Example 3 To evaluate the moisturizing effect of the composition of the present invention,
Three lotion formulations were prepared generally following the procedure described in Example 1. The formulation is as follows.

[Table] Rule

TABLE Compositions designated A, B, and C were tested against petrolatum itself as well as a commercially available skin lotion, designated below as PG, and having a formulation approximately as follows. PG triethanolamine stearate (emulsifier),
Ethoxylated aliphatic esters, carbopol (Sickner), mineral oil, fatty alcohols, sorbitol (Fumectant), isopropyl saturated aliphatic esters, glyceryl stearate, preservatives, titanium dioxide, water and silicone oil. In addition, untreated skin was passed through the test procedure and the results measured and controlled. To evaluate the moisturizing effect of various formulations, each composition was
0.02 milliliters was applied to the forearm site of each of the nine female subjects. Transepidermal water loss (transepidermal water loss)
"TEWL") was measured with a Servo-med evaporometer 1/2 hour after application of each composition. The composition was then wiped twice with kimwipe to partially remove it from the site.
After that, measurements were taken. Skin temperature was also recorded. A randomized block analysis of variation was performed on all of the data generated by the test formulation where the compound was present on the skin. Significant differences in TEWL were observed when using randomized block analysis of variation. Multi-spectrum analysis showed that Formulas A, B, C and petrolatum can be lumped together as absorbing substances, whereas Formula PG, which is similar to the control, does not appear to produce any absorption. . A Newman-Keuls multiple range analysis showing TEWL measured at gm ^-2 hr ^-1 is displayed in Table 1 below. Table 1 TEWL Value Formula gm ^-2 hr ^-1 A 2.2 B 2.7 C 2.9 Petrolatum 3.0 PG 3.8 Control 4.1 This data demonstrates the superiority of the composition of the invention and the comparison of the composition of the invention with commercially available compositions. This reflects the product's unexpected and excellent moisturizing properties. This result shows that although the composition of the invention contains petrolatum in an emulsified form, water loss through the epidermis was significantly reduced by the composition of the invention to a level similar to petrolatum alone. It shows.
The results also show that when a composition with mineral oil is used in place of petrolatum, it provides a formulated composition that exhibits satisfactory moisturizing properties even when compared to petrolatum used alone. . Example 4 To further demonstrate the moisturizing properties provided to the skin by the present invention, the following formulations of the present invention were prepared according to the procedure described in Example 1.

Table: Three commercially available formulations were also used in this test. The first commercially available formulation tested was a skin lotion, hereinafter referred to as CP.
The second formulated composition is a skin cream and is designated below as Nr.La469/4. The final formulation was PG as described in Example 3. The formulation of the commercially available composition is as follows.

【table】

Table: In vitro tests were conducted to characterize membranes for their ability to reduce transfilm moisture loss through translucency or mengrene. The test system used capacitive sensors to record the temperature and relative humidity of heated dry nitrogen gas across a dialysis membrane in a modified Franz diffusion cell. Low gas pressures on the order of 10psi, and 1
Low flow rates of less than about 50 cubic centimeters per minute were used for approximately laminar flow across the membrane surface of the skin. Uniform temperature on both sides of the menglen was maintained by circulating a water jacket over the diffusion cell. All products were flow coated onto half of the dialysis membrane. The other half of the mengrain was used as a control. All measurements were performed until steady state water loss was observed. The percentage reduction is calculated using the following formula: % reduction = (Untreated moisture loss - Treated moisture loss) / (
Calculated by (raw water loss) x 100. The results of the experiment are shown in Table 2 as below. Table 2 Formula Reduction % Composition D 34 Composition E 23 Nr.La469/4 1 CP 27 PG 16 Nr.La469/4 Formula Composition Contains no aliphatic alcohols such as cetyl alcohol. P.G.
The formulated composition uses a water-soluble detergent as an emulsifier compared to the cationic emulsifier of the present invention.
The CP formulation was absorbed more slowly than the formulation of the present invention and exhibited a cosmetically unpleasant greasy feel after application. Moreover, CP formulations are more easily removed when exposed to water than formulations of the present invention. Additionally, CP formulations use detergent emulsifiers as compared to the cationic emulsifiers of the present invention. Example 5 A cosmetic comparison of tactility was made between a skin care composition of the present invention, prepared generally according to the procedure of Example 1, and a commercially available skin conditioner. The prescription composition on the label of a commercially available conditioner is as follows. Formula composition Mineral oil, Quat 18, Quat 19, Isopropyl palmitate, Cetyl alcohol, Propylene glycol, Dimethicone, PEG (100)
Stearate, lanolin alcohol, glycerol stearate, sodium lactate, water, preservatives,
Fragrance, TiO ₂ The primary emulsifier for commercial skin conditioners, polyethylene glycol (100) stearate, is a water-soluble surfactant. Approximately 1.5 percent of the quaternary ammonium surfactant, Quat 18, is also believed to be present. After application to the skin, commercially available conditioners leave a greasy, greasy residue that is cosmetically unacceptable to the user. Furthermore, due to the use of water-soluble surfactants as primary emulsifiers, the coatings are more easily dispersed compared to the compositions of the present invention. In contrast, the compositions of the present invention are easily absorbed and provide moisture to dry skin without leaving a greasy, cosmetically unacceptable residue.

Claims (1)

Claims: 1 Petrolatum, petrolatum partially substituted with a mixture of hydrocarbon materials, or mineral oil in an amount sufficient to moisturize and soothe the skin; the formula; (wherein R ₁ and R ₂ are each long-chain nearly linear alkyl groups having about 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and R ₃
and R ₄ are each a lower alkyl group having about 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and X is a salt-forming anion), the quaternary ammonium compound emulsifying the petrolatum or mineral oil. a sufficient amount of fatty alcohol to stabilize the emulsion and provide a cosmetically acceptable viscosity; and to improve the tactility of the composition. comprising a water-repellent emulsion containing a sufficient amount of aliphatic ester softener and having cosmetically acceptable tactile properties;
A skin care composition for moisturizing and toning the skin. 2 about 75% to 85% aqueous excipient; about 1% to 6
% petrolatum; about 2% to 7% dimethyldistearylammonium chloride; about 1.5% to 5% cetyl alcohol; about 1% to 5% isopropyl palmitate; and about 0.1% to about
The composition of claim 1 which is a lotion comprising a water repellent emulsion containing 1.0% of a dimethylpolysiloxane liquid having a viscosity of about 10 to 1000 centistokes.