JP7478725B2 - 超低曳糸性感触調整剤及び化粧料 - Google Patents
超低曳糸性感触調整剤及び化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- 235000010447 xylitol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960002675 xylitol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000001052 yellow pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010457 zeolite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940105125 zinc myristate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 description 1
- GBFLQPIIIRJQLU-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc;tetradecanoate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O GBFLQPIIIRJQLU-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
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- 229910052726 zirconium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- FYGDTMLNYKFZSV-BYLHFPJWSA-N β-1,4-galactotrioside Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1O[C@@H]1[C@H](CO)O[C@@H](O[C@@H]2[C@@H](O[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]2O)CO)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O FYGDTMLNYKFZSV-BYLHFPJWSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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Description
さらに、これらの水溶性高分子の高配合により、系の粘度が大幅に変わることも問題である。所望の製品形態に適した粘度でなくなる場合があるからである。
[1] ポリアクリルアミド及びポリN-置換アクリルアミド誘導体から選ばれる1以上の水溶性高分子からなる化粧料の超低曳糸性感触調整剤であって、
前記水溶性高分子の重量平均分子量が50万~800万であり、かつ分子量分布(重量平均分子量/数平均分子量)が3.0~7.04であり、
前記水溶性高分子の30℃での粘度が1000mPa・s以下であり、
前記水溶性高分子の2質量%水溶液の室温における曳糸長(前記水溶液の表面に直径約1cmの丸型円盤を均一に軽く接触させた後、5mm/秒の速度で容器を降下させて、当該水溶液の糸曳きが切れるまでに前記容器が降下した距離)が5mm以下である、
化粧料の超低曳糸性感触調整剤。
[2] 前記ポリN-置換アクリルアミド誘導体の当該置換基が、メチル基、エチル基、及びヒドロキシエチル基から選ばれる置換基である、[1]に記載の超低曳糸性感触調整剤。
[3] 前記ポリN-置換アクリルアミド誘導体が、ポリN,N-ジメチルアクリルアミド及び/またはポリN-ヒドロキシエチルアクリルアミドである、[1]または[2]に記載の超低曳糸性感触調整剤。
[4] 前記化粧料を肌に塗布した直後から塗布終了までの間、持続して認められるリッチ感を制御する、[1]~[3]のいずれかに記載の超低曳糸性感触調整剤。
[5] 前記水溶性高分子の30℃での粘度が223~447mPa・sである、[1]~[4]のいずれかに記載の超低曳糸性感触調整剤。
[6] [1]~[5]のいずれかに記載の超低曳糸性感触調整剤を配合したことを特徴とする化粧料。
・水溶性高分子
本開示に係る感触調整剤は、特定の分子量と曳糸長を有するポリアクリルアミド及びポリN-置換アクリルアミド誘導体から選ばれる1以上の水溶性高分子からなるものである。
前記分子量としては、重量平均分子量が50万~800万であることが好ましく、さらに好ましくは200万~600万である。重量平均分子量が50万未満ではリッチ感が得られない場合があり、800万を超えるとべたつきが生じる場合がある。
前記曳糸長としては、当該水溶性高分子の2質量%水溶液の室温における曳糸長が10mm以下、好ましくは6mm以下である。前記曳糸長が10mmを超えると曳糸性が顕著になり、べたつきが生じる場合がある。
なお、本開示に係る“曳糸長”とは、“水溶性高分子の2質量%水溶液の表面に直径約1cmの丸型円盤を均一に軽く接触させた後、5mm/秒の速度で前記容器を降下させて、当該溶液の糸曳きが切れるまでに前記容器が降下した距離”のことを指す。
なお、本書では、ポリN-置換アクリルアミド誘導体の“N-”、“N,N-”を省略して表記する場合がある。
本発明に係るポリアクリルアミド及びポリN-置換アクリルアミド誘導体は、公知のリビング重合法により合成することができる。リビング重合には、リビングアニオン重合、リビングカチオン重合、リビングラジカル重合(精密ラジカル重合、又は制御ラジカル重合)が挙げられる。
水溶性高分子の分子量は、重量平均分子量については光散乱法、超遠心法、クロマトグラフィー法等、数平均分子量については浸透圧法、クロマトグラフィー法等の公知の方法によって測定することができる。なかでも、少量の試料で簡便に重量平均分子量、数平均分子量、及び分子量分布が得られる点でクロマトグラフィー法が好ましく、さらには、ゲルパーミエーションクロマトグラフ法(以下、GPCと略記)が好適である。
なお、本願で用いる分子量分布は、GPC解析によって得られた重量平均分子量を数平均分子量で除した値である。
本開示における“粘度の大幅な変化”とは、基準となる粘度に対し、粘度が3分の1以下または3倍以上となる変化を意味し、さらに好ましくは、粘度が2分の1以下または2倍以上となる変化を意味する。
また、本開示における“塗布時のリッチ感”とは、特に断りがない限り、“化粧料を肌に塗布した直後から塗布終了までの間、持続して認められるリッチ感”のことである(注:本願試験例2及び3では、各合成例の化合物の特性及び効果を詳細に評価するために、“塗布時のリッチ感”をさらに“塗布直後のリッチ感”と“塗布直後より後のリッチ感”に分けて解析している)。さらに、ここでいう“リッチ感”とは、“塗布中こってりに感じて、もちもちとした適度な手応えのある感覚”のことである。
水相を連続相とする化粧料としては、水性化粧料や水中油型化粧料が挙げられ、製品形態としては、化粧水、乳液、美容液、クリーム、化粧下地等が挙げられる。このうち、特に好ましくは、化粧水、乳液、美容液である。
本開示に係る化粧料は、化粧水である場合には、粘度が100~500mPa・sの範囲内であることが好ましく、美容液または乳液である場合の好ましい粘度は、2000~20000mPa・sであり、さらに好ましくは4000~7000mPa・sである。
油相成分としては、通常化粧料に用いられる炭化水素油、高級脂肪酸、高級アルコール、合成エステル油、シリコーン油、液体油脂、固体油脂、ロウ等の油分、及び、油溶性紫外線吸収剤、香料等の油性成分が挙げられる。
水相成分としては、通常化粧料に使用される、水、及び、水溶性アルコール、増粘剤(水溶性高分子)、保湿剤、キレート剤、防腐剤、色素、金属イオン封鎖剤、pH調整剤等の水性成分を適宜配合することができる。
本開示に係る化粧料には、種々の界面活性剤及び/または乳化剤を、単独でまたは組み合わせて用いることができる。
界面活性剤としては、ノニオン界面活性剤、カチオン界面活性剤、アニオン界面活性剤、両性界面活性剤より任意に選択することができ、全体としてHLB7以上となることが好ましい。ここで、HLBとは、親水性-親油性のバランス(Hydrophilic-Lypophilic Balance)を示す指標であり、本発明においては小田、寺村らによる次式を用いて算出した値である。
HLB=(Σ無機性値/Σ有機性値)×10
また、「全体としてのHLBが7以上」とは、例えば、HLBがaである界面活性剤をx質量%とHLBがbである界面活性剤を(100-x)質量%組み合わせて使用した場合、全HLB=a・x/100+b・(100-x)/100とした時の値を意味する。
具体的には、例えば、脂肪酸石鹸(例えば、ラウリン酸ナトリウム、パルミチン酸ナトリウム等)、高級アルキル硫酸エステル塩(例えば、ラウリル硫酸ナトリウム、ラウリル硫酸カリウム等)、アルキルエーテル硫酸エステル塩(例えば、POE-ラウリル硫酸トリエタノールアミン、POE-ラウリル硫酸ナトリウム等)、N-アシルサルコシン酸(例えば、ラウロイルサルコシンナトリウム等)、高級脂肪酸アミドスルホン酸塩(例えば、N-ミリストイル-N-メチルタウリンナトリウム、ヤシ油脂肪酸メチルタウリッドナトリウム、ラウリルメチルタウリッドナトリウム等)、リン酸エステル塩(POE-オレイルエーテルリン酸ナトリウム、POE-ステアリルエーテルリン酸等)、スルホコハク酸塩(例えば、ジ-2-エチルヘキシルスルホコハク酸ナトリウム、モノラウロイルモノエタノールアミドポリオキシエチレンスルホコハク酸ナトリウム、ラウリルポリプロピレングリコールスルホコハク酸ナトリウム等)、アルキルベンゼンスルホン酸塩(例えば、リニアドデシルベンゼンスルホン酸ナトリウム、リニアドデシルベンゼンスルホン酸トリエタノールアミン、リニアドデシルベンゼンスルホン酸等)、高級脂肪酸エステル硫酸エステル塩(例えば、硬化ヤシ油脂肪酸グリセリン硫酸ナトリウム等)、N-アシルグルタミン酸塩(例えば、N-ラウロイルグルタミン酸モノナトリウム、N-ステアロイルグルタミン酸ジナトリウム、N-ミリストイル-L-グルタミン酸モノナトリウム等)、硫酸化油(例えば、ロート油等)、POE-アルキルエーテルカルボン酸、POE-アルキルアリルエーテルカルボン酸塩、α-オレフィンスルホン酸塩、高級脂肪酸エステルスルホン酸塩、二級アルコール硫酸エステル塩、高級脂肪酸アルキロールアミド硫酸エステル塩、ラウロイルモノエタノールアミドコハク酸ナトリウム、N-パルミトイルアスパラギン酸ジトリエタノールアミン、カゼインナトリウム等が挙げられる。
本開示に係る化粧料には、乳化剤として上記高分子化合物を好適に用いることができる。
最初に、試験例で用いた水溶性高分子の合成方法を示す。下記反応において、V501は4,4’-アゾビス-(4-シアノ吉草酸)(重合開始剤)、CPDは4-シアノペンタン酸ジチオベンゾエート(連鎖移動剤)の略記である。
合成例1:ポリアクリルアミド-1
超純水(36ml)にアクリルアミド(10.05g)を溶解し、アルゴン置換を行った。メタノール溶液(4ml)にV501(0.71mg)を溶解してアルゴン置換を行った後、前記溶液に添加し、60℃で24時間重合反応を行った。重合反応後、精製水で3日間透析し、その後凍結乾燥を行うことでポリアクリルアミドを回収した。GPCを用いて解析した結果、得られたポリアクリルアミドの重量平均分子量は496万で、分子量分布は9.47であった。
本開示では以降、当該ポリアクリルアミドをポリアクリルアミド-1と呼ぶ場合がある。
超純水(36ml)にアクリルアミド(10.05g)を溶解し、アルゴン置換を行った。メタノール溶液(4ml)にV501(0.75mg)とCPD(2.12mg)を溶解してアルゴン置換を行った後、前記溶液に添加し、60℃で24時間重合反応を行った。重合反応後、精製水で3日間透析し、その後凍結乾燥を行うことでポリアクリルアミドを回収した。GPCを用いて解析した結果、得られたポリアクリルアミドの重量平均分子量は351万で、分子量分布は3.0であった。
本開示では以降、当該ポリアクリルアミドをポリアクリルアミド-2と呼ぶ場合がある。
超純水(16.6ml)にヒドロキシエチルアクリルアミド(6.42g)を溶解し、アルゴン置換を行った。メタノール溶液(2ml)にV501(0.34mg)とCPD(0.34mg)を溶解し、アルゴン置換を行った後、前記溶液に添加し、60℃で24時間重合反応を行った。重合反応後、精製水で3日間透析し、その後凍結乾燥を行うことでポリヒドロキシエチルアクリルアミドを回収した。GPCを用いて解析した結果、得られたポリヒドロキシエチルアクリルアミドの重量平均分子量は371万で、分子量分布は6.23であった。
超純水(36ml)にN,N-ジメチルアクリルアミド(10.05g)を溶解し、アルゴン置換を行った。メタノール溶液(2ml)にV501(14.08mg)を溶解し、アルゴン置換を行った後、前記溶液に添加し、60℃で24時間重合反応を行った。重合反応後、精製水で3日間透析し、その後凍結乾燥を行うことでポリジメチルアクリルアミドを回収した。GPCを用いて解析した結果、得られたポリジメチルアクリルアミドの重量平均分子量は475万で、分子量分布は4.47であった。
本開示では以降、当該ポリジメチルアクリルアミドをポリジメチルアクリルアミド-1と呼ぶ場合がある。
超純水(36ml)にN,N-ジメチルアクリルアミド(10.04g)を溶解し、アルゴン置換を行った。メタノール溶液(2ml)にV501(14.05mg)とCPD(1.42mg)を溶解し、アルゴン置換を行った後、前記溶液に添加し、60℃で24時間重合反応を行った。重合反応後、精製水で3日間透析し、その後凍結乾燥を行うことでポリジメチルアクリルアミドを回収した。GPCを用いて解析した結果、得られたポリジメチルアクリルアミドの重量平均分子量は287万で、分子量分布は7.04であった。
本開示では以降、当該ポリジメチルアクリルアミドをポリジメチルアクリルアミド-2と呼ぶ場合がある。
イオン交換水(9ml)にアクリル酸(2511mg)とV501(0.17mg)を溶解し、CPD(0.17mg)を溶解させたメタノール溶液(1ml)を加え、アルゴン雰囲気下、60℃で24時間重合反応を行った。重合反応後、水酸化ナトリウム水溶液を添加してpHを6.0~7.0に調整(=完全中和)した後、精製水に対して4日間透析し、凍結乾燥を行うことでポリアクリル酸ナトリウムを回収した。GPCを用いて解析した結果、得られたポリアクリル酸ナトリウムの重量平均分子量は730万で、分子量分布は1.2であった。
なお、当該ポリアクリル酸ナトリウムは、特許文献1の実施例1の精密合成ポリアクリル酸ナトリウム-1に相当するものである。
続いて、各水溶性高分子化合物の特性を評価した。評価項目と評価方法を以下に示す。
<粘度>
各高分子化合物の2質量%水溶液を調製し、B型回転粘度計(ビスメトロン粘度計、芝浦システム株式会社製)を用いて、30℃、12rpm、1分間回転後の粘度値(mPa・s)を測定した。
各高分子化合物の2質量%水溶液を調製し、テクスチャーアナライザー(TA XT PLUS,ステーブルマイクロシステムズ社製)にセットし、表面に直径約1cmの丸型円盤を均一に軽く接触させた後、5mm/秒の速度で降下させて、溶液が糸を曳く様子を観察した。当該溶液の糸曳きが切れるまでに降下した距離を曳糸長として測定した。この曳糸長は、当該高分子化合物の曳糸性の指標となる値で、数値が大きいほど曳糸性が強いことを示す(特開2005-274350号公報参照)。
本願では、曳糸長が10mm以下である場合に低曳糸性と判断し、さらに5mm以下である場合に超低曳糸性と判断した。
天然の水溶性高分子であるヒアルロン酸ナトリウムでは、塗布直後から塗布終了までの間、リッチ感がほぼ減衰せずに持続することが知られている。そこで、専門パネル8名に対し、各水溶性高分子化合物の2質量%水溶液を右顔半面に、ヒアルロン酸ナトリウムの2質量%水溶液(陽性コントロール)を左顔半面にそれぞれ塗布してもらい、各高分子化合物水溶液の“塗布直後より後のリッチ感”について、陽性コントロールの当該効果と比較してもらった。結果を以下の記号で表す。
A:7名以上が、ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム水溶液と同様と回答
B:5~6名が、ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム水溶液と同様と回答
C:3~4名が、ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム水溶液と同様と回答
D:2名以下が、ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム水溶液と同様と回答
本開示においては、AとBを合格、CとDを不合格とした。
ヒアルロン酸ナトリウムでは、塗布時に曳糸感を生じることなく、のびのよさやリッチ感を奏することが知られている。そこで、専門パネル8名に対し、各水溶性高分子化合物の2質量%水溶液とヒアルロン酸ナトリウムの2質量%水溶液(陽性コントロール)を手の項にそれぞれ塗布してもらい、各高分子化合物水溶液の塗布時の曳糸感のなさについて、陽性コントロールの当該効果と比較してもらった。結果を以下の記号で表す。
A:7名以上が、ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム水溶液と同様と回答
B:5~6名が、ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム水溶液と同様と回答
C:3~4名が、ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム水溶液と同様と回答
D:2名以下が、ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム水溶液と同様と回答
本開示においては、AとBを合格、CとDを不合格とした。
これに対し、合成例1のポリアクリルアミド-1は、粘度が非常に高く(4940mPa・s)、曳糸長が12mmで曳糸性が高く、肌に塗布した際に曳糸感を生じるものであった。
一方、合成例6のポリアクリル酸ナトリウムは、粘度、曳糸長(曳糸性)ともに低く、肌に塗布した際にも曳糸感を生じないものであったが、リッチ感の持続性は認められなかった。
また、曳糸性が水溶性高分子の粘度と必ずしも相関しないこともこの表から示される。
続いて、これらの水溶性高分子を化粧料に配合した場合の効果を解析した。
合成例1~6の水溶性高分子等を配合した化粧料(美容液)を下記製造方法に従って作製し、下記項目(1)~(6)について下記方法によって評価した。当該処方と評価結果を表3に示す。
ジメチコンとトリエチルヘキサノインを混合溶解し(=混合液A)、水酸化カリウム以外の残りの成分を均一に溶解した(=混合液B)。混合液Aを混合液Bに徐添し、ホモジナイザーを用いて混合した。さらに、水酸化カリウムを添加してホモジナイザー処理することで、所定の化粧水を得た。
<粘度>
各組成物を30℃に保温した後、B型回転粘度計(ビスメトロン粘度計、芝浦システム株式会社製)を用いて1分間回転(12rpm)した後の粘度値(mPa・s)を測定した。
本開示では、基準となる組成物の粘度に対し、粘度が3分の1以下または3倍以上となった場合に“大幅に変化した”と判断した。
<pH>
pHメーター(HORIBA pH METER F-52、株式会社堀場製作所製)を用いて、25℃におけるpHを測定した。
<乳化粒子径>
光学顕微鏡(OLYMPUS社製:BX60)により観察した。
<使用感>
専門パネル8名に対し、各化粧料を顔に塗布してもらい、塗布直後のリッチ感、塗布直後より後のリッチ感(リッチ感の持続性)、べたつきのなさ、のびのよさ、について、当該効果の有無を回答してもらった。回答結果を以下の基準に従って集計し、表中に記載した。
A:7名以上が、効果があると答えた。
B:5~6名が、効果があると答えた。
C:3~4名が、効果があると答えた。
D:2名以下が、効果があると答えた。
本開示では、AとBを合格、CとDを不合格とした。
比較例1と実施例1の化粧料に配合したポリアクリルアミドでは曳糸性が大きく異なっていることから(表2)、粘度への影響が少なく、べたつきのなさを損なうことなく、それでいてリッチ感を発現させるには、曳糸性の低い(具体的には、曳糸長が10mm以下)水溶性高分子を配合する必要があることが示された。
これに対し、アニオン性水溶性高分子(比較例3)は粘度への影響が非常に大きく、当該配合によって得られるリッチ感は持続しないことが示された。さらに、ノニオン性水溶性高分子であってもアクリルアミド系以外の水溶性高分子(比較例4)では、粘度を大幅に変化させない範囲の配合量では、リッチ感が発現しないことが示された。
成分 配合量(質量%)
ジメチコン 2
トリエチルヘキサノイン 1
グリセリン 5
1,3-ブチレングリコール 3
(アクリロイルジメチルタウリンアンモニウム/メタクリル酸ベヘネス-25)
クロスポリマー 0.4
ポリジメチルアクリルアミド-2(合成例5) 0.5
(アクリレーツ/アクリル酸アルキル(C10-30))
クロスポリマー 0.07
水酸化カリウム 0.03
フェノキシエタノール 0.3
メチルパラベン 0.15
EDTA-2Na 0.03
香料 0.04
精製水 残余
Claims (6)
- ポリアクリルアミド及びポリN-置換アクリルアミド誘導体から選ばれる1以上の水溶性高分子からなる化粧料の超低曳糸性感触調整剤であって、
前記水溶性高分子の重量平均分子量が50万~800万であり、かつ分子量分布(重量平均分子量/数平均分子量)が3.0~7.04であり、
前記水溶性高分子の30℃での粘度が1000mPa・s以下であり、
前記水溶性高分子の2質量%水溶液の室温における曳糸長(前記水溶液の表面に直径約1cmの丸型円盤を均一に軽く接触させた後、5mm/秒の速度で容器を降下させて、当該水溶液の糸曳きが切れるまでに前記容器が降下した距離)が5mm以下である、
化粧料の超低曳糸性感触調整剤。 - 前記ポリN-置換アクリルアミド誘導体の当該置換基が、メチル基、エチル基、及びヒドロキシエチル基から選ばれる置換基である、請求項1に記載の超低曳糸性感触調整剤。
- 前記ポリN-置換アクリルアミド誘導体が、ポリN,N-ジメチルアクリルアミド及び/またはポリN-ヒドロキシエチルアクリルアミドである、請求項1または2に記載の超低曳糸性感触調整剤。
- 前記化粧料を肌に塗布した直後から塗布終了までの間、持続して認められるリッチ感を制御する、請求項1~3のいずれかに記載の超低曳糸性感触調整剤。
- 前記水溶性高分子の30℃での粘度が223~447mPa・sである、請求項1~4のいずれかに記載の超低曳糸性感触調整剤。
- 請求項1~5のいずれかに記載の超低曳糸性感触調整剤を配合したことを特徴とする化粧料。
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WO2015052804A1 (ja) | 2013-10-09 | 2015-04-16 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 低曳糸性増粘剤、及び該増粘剤を配合した化粧料 |
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