JP7343885B2 - 皮膚化粧料 - Google Patents
皮膚化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- JP7343885B2 JP7343885B2 JP2017140668A JP2017140668A JP7343885B2 JP 7343885 B2 JP7343885 B2 JP 7343885B2 JP 2017140668 A JP2017140668 A JP 2017140668A JP 2017140668 A JP2017140668 A JP 2017140668A JP 7343885 B2 JP7343885 B2 JP 7343885B2
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Description
とのリン酸ジエステル複合体を含有することを特徴とする皮膚外用剤はしわ改善や皮膚弾性の上昇効果を有するものであるものの、持続性のある保湿効果やあれ肌改善効果を充分に有するものでなかったり、剥皮マスクメロンからの抽出物を配合した皮膚化粧料はしわ改善や皮膚弾性の上昇効果、持続性のある保湿効果を有するものであるものの、あれ肌改善効果を充分に有するものでなかったり、イネ科植物の胎座抽出物を含有することを特徴とする皮膚外用剤はあれ肌改善効果や皮膚弾性の上昇効果を有するものであるものの、持続性のある保湿効果やしわ改善を充分に有するものでなかったり、複合的な老化兆候を抑止・改善しうる皮膚外用剤といえるものではなかった。
(A)メロン胎座抽出物
(B)ヒアルロン酸及びその塩、コラーゲンの加水分解物、セラミドから選ばれる1種又は2種以上
(C)レチノール及びその誘導体、ローヤルゼリー抽出物、オウゴン根抽出物から選ばれる1種又は2種以上
(B)ヒアルロン酸及びその塩、コラーゲンの加水分解物、セラミドから選ばれる1種又
は2種以上
(C)レチノール及びその誘導体、ローヤルゼリー抽出物、オウゴン根抽出物から選ばれる1種又は2種以上
ジング効果(小じわ改善効果、肌のハリ・弾力改善効果)が得られず、0.01質量%を超えると肌に対する刺激が生じる場合がある。
(評価方法)
評価パネル5名について、全顔を石けんで洗浄し、次に、温度25℃、相対湿度50%の環境下にて20分間馴化後、目じり部に、本発明の皮膚化粧料を0.05mL/cm2塗布した。塗布後に温度25℃、相対湿度50%の環境下にて60分間馴化後、角質水分量(コンダクタンス値)をCorneometer(MPA580、Courage+Khazaka社製)を用いて測定した。保湿効果の評価は、以下の計算式より保湿効果(%)を算出して5名の平均値を求め、下記判断基準に基づいて行った。
保湿効果(%)=(塗布後1時間経過時点での角質水分量/塗布前の角質水分量)×100
(判断基準)
◎:保湿効果(%)が140%以上であった
○:保湿効果(%)が120%以上140%未満であった
△:保湿効果(%)が100%以上120%未満であった
×:保湿効果(%)が100%未満であった
(評価方法)
評価パネル3名について、一日二回片方の目じり部に本発明の皮膚化粧料を、もう片側の目じり部には純水を、それぞれ適量塗布する試験を、4週間行った。連用前後の目じりのしわのレプリカを、軽く目をつぶった状態の左右の目周辺よりSILFLO(登録商標)(FLEXICO DEVEROPMENTS社製)にて採取した。採取したレプリカの三次元形状を非接触3D測定装置PRIMOS Lite(GFMesstechnik社製)を用いて計測した。小じわ改善効果の評価は、以下の計算式より小じわ改善効果(%)を算出して3名の平均値を求め、下記判断基準に基づいて行った。
小じわ改善効果(%)=(純水を塗布した目じりにおける連用後の総しわの平均深さ/純水を塗布した目じりにおける連用前の総しわの平均深さ)×100-(本発明の皮膚化粧料を塗布した目じりにおける連用後の総しわの平均深さ/本発明の皮膚化粧料を塗布した目じりにおける連用前の総しわの平均深さ)×100
(判断基準)
◎:小じわ改善効果(%)が20%以上であった
○:小じわ改善効果(%)が10%以上20%未満であった
△:小じわ改善効果(%)が5%以上10%未満であった
×:小じわ改善効果(%)が5%未満であった
(評価方法)
専門パネル5名について、前腕内側部を石けんで洗浄し、次に、温度25℃、相対湿度50%の環境下にて20分間馴化後、角質水分蒸散量(TEWL)を測定した。その後、本発明の皮膚化粧料を0.1mL/cm2塗布した。塗布後に温度25℃、相対湿度50%の環境下にて60分間馴化後、再度角質水分蒸散量(TEWL)を測定した。あれ肌改善効果の評価は、以下の計算式よりあれ肌改善効果(%)を算出して5名の平均値を求め、下記判断基準に基づいて行った。
あれ肌改善効果(%)={1-(塗布後1時間経過時点での角質水分蒸散量/塗布前の角質水分蒸散量)}×100
(判断基準)
◎:あれ肌改善効果(%)が40%以上であった
○:あれ肌改善効果(%)が20%以上40%未満であった
△:あれ肌改善効果(%)が10%以上20%未満であった
×:あれ肌改善効果(%)が10%未満であった
(評価方法)
専門パネル5名について、前腕内側部を石けんで洗浄し、次に、温度25℃、相対湿度50%の環境下にて20分間馴化後、頬部に本発明の皮膚化粧料を0.1mL/cm2塗布した。塗布後に温度25℃、相対湿度50%の環境下にて60分間馴化後、皮膚の粘弾性をCutometer(MPA580、Courage+Khazaka社製)を用いて測定した。肌のハリ・弾力改善効果の評価は、以下の計算式よりハリ・弾力改善効果(%)を算出して5名の平均値を求め、下記判断基準に基づいて行った。
ハリ・弾力改善効果(%)=(塗布後60分経過時点での肌弾力/塗布前の肌弾力)×100
(判断基準)
◎:ハリ・弾力改善効果(%)が107%以上であった
○:ハリ・弾力改善効果(%)が105%以上107%未満であった
△:ハリ・弾力改善効果(%)が100%以上105%未満であった
×:ハリ・弾力改善効果(%)が100%未満であった
(評価方法)
専門パネル5名について、前腕内側部に本発明の皮膚化粧料を塗布し、指で軽くなじませた1分後の「べたつき」を評価した。試験結果は、べたつきがあると回答した人数を用いて、下記評価基準により判断した。
(評価基準)
◎:べたつきがあると認めたパネラーが0名
○:べたつきがあると認めたパネラーが1名
△:べたつきがあると認めたパネラーが2名~4名
×:べたつきがあると認めたパネラーが4名あるいは5名
表1および表2に示す実施例1~15及び比較例1~8の各処方における皮膚化粧料を常法により調整し、各試験法により評価した。その結果を表1および表2に併せて示す。
(1)エタノール 3.0%
(2)ジプロピレングリコール 3.0%
(3)グリセリン 10.0%
(4)ソルビトール 1.0%
(5)カルボキシビニルポリマー 0.2%
(6)水酸化カリウム 0.06%
(7)キサンタンガム 0.2%
(8)POE(60)硬化ヒマシ油 0.3%
(9)EDTA-2Na 0.01%
(10)水溶性コラーゲン 0.1%
(11)ヒアルロン酸Na 0.1%
(12)メロン胎座エキス 0.2%
(13)ビタミンA油 0.0001%
(14)ローヤルゼリーエキス 0.1%
(15)アロエエキス 0.1%
(16)キュウリ果実エキス 0.1%
(17)アルテアエキス 0.01%
(18)セージエキス 0.01%
(19)ウイキョウエキス 0.01%
(20)ツボクサエキス 0.01%
(21)ブドウ葉エキス 0.01%
(22)ローズマリー葉エキス 0.01%
(23)チャ葉エキス 0.01%
(24)ビルベリー果実エキス 0.001%
(25)イタドリ根エキス 0.001%
(26)サトウキビエキス 0.001%
(27)レモン果実エキス 0.01%
(28)オレンジ果実エキス 0.01%
(29)メチルパラベン 0.1%
(30)フェノキシエタノール 0.2%
(31)精製水 残余
(3)~(6)と(9)を(31)に加えて溶解する(A液)。(1)に(8)、(13)、(29)及び(30)を溶解させた後、A液に徐々に添加して均一に分散させる(B液)。(2)に(7)を分散させ、B液にゆっくりと加えて混合した後、(10)~(12)及び(14)~(28)を添加して均一に分散させ、皮膚化粧料を調製した。
(1)ステアリン酸 1.0%
(2)ベヘニルアルコール 2.0%
(3)モノステアリン酸グリセリル 2.0%
(4)ミネラルオイル 3.0%
(5)ワセリン 0.1%
(6)ミリスチンサンオクチルドデシル 5.0%
(7)ジメチコン 0.05%
(8)ステアロイルグルタミン酸Na 2.0%
(9)ジプロピレングリコール 6.0%
(10)メチルパラベン 0.2%
(11)EDTA-2Na 0.05%
(12)カルボキシビニルポリマー 0.2%
(13)メロン胎座エキス 0.2%
(14)セラミド(ユズ果実由来、固形分換算で) 0.0002%
(15)ハス種子発酵液 0.01%
(16)ローヤルゼリー抽出物 0.2%
(17)オウゴン根抽出物 0.1%
(18)ダイズ種子エキス 0.05%
(19)葉酸 0.001%
(20)カミツレ花エキス 0.001%
(21)ヤグルマギク花エキス 0.001%
(22)アルニカ花エキス 0.001%
(23)ローマカミツレ花エキス 0.001%
(24)フユボダイジュ花エキス 0.001%
(25)トウキンセンカ花エキス 0.001%
(26)ローズ水 0.003%
(27)ハマメリス葉エキス 0.025%
(28)チャ葉エキス 0.025%
(29)ブドウ葉エキス 0.025%
(30)モモ葉エキス 0.025%
(31)アルゲエキス 0.05%
(32)セイヨウオトギリソウ花/葉/茎エキス 0.001%
(33)シャクヤク根エキス 0.01%
(34)ホップエキス 0.01%
(35)精製水 残余
(35)に(8)~(34)を順次攪拌しながら添加し、均一溶解するまで加温後、加温溶解した(1)~(7)に添加して均一に分散させた後、冷却して皮膚化粧料を調製した。
Claims (2)
- 下記成分(A)~(C)を含有することを特徴とする皮膚化粧料。
(A)メロン胎座抽出物0.5質量%以下
(B)ヒアルロン酸及びその塩0.5質量%以下、コラーゲンの加水分解物0.5質量%以下、セラミド0.005質量%以下から選ばれる1種又は2種以上
(C)レチノール及びその誘導体0.01質量%以下、ローヤルゼリー抽出物0.5質量%以下、オウゴン根抽出物0.5質量%以下から選ばれる1種又は2種以上 - 下記成分(B)および(C)を含有する皮膚化粧料に、メロン胎座抽出物0.5質量%以下を添加することにより、皮膚化粧料の保湿機能、あれ肌改善効果、小じわ改善効果、および肌のハリ・弾力改善効果を向上させる方法。
(B)ヒアルロン酸及びその塩0.5質量%以下、コラーゲンの加水分解物0.5質量%以下、セラミド0.005質量%以下から選ばれる1種又は2種以上
(C)レチノール及びその誘導体0.01質量%以下、ローヤルゼリー抽出物0.5質量%以下、オウゴン根抽出物0.5質量%以下から選ばれる1種又は2種以上
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