JP6336313B2 - 水中油型乳化組成物 - Google Patents
水中油型乳化組成物 Download PDFInfo
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- JP6336313B2 JP6336313B2 JP2014067416A JP2014067416A JP6336313B2 JP 6336313 B2 JP6336313 B2 JP 6336313B2 JP 2014067416 A JP2014067416 A JP 2014067416A JP 2014067416 A JP2014067416 A JP 2014067416A JP 6336313 B2 JP6336313 B2 JP 6336313B2
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- oil
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Landscapes
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Description
一般に、抗老化用化粧料においては、ハリ感を付与する技術は、薬剤的効果と物理的効果との二つのアプローチによるものがある。薬剤的効果としては、皮膚のハリ、弾力の低下を遅延あるいは予防する目的で薬剤を用いる技術が知られている。このような技術には、コラーゲン産生促進効果、エラスターゼ阻害効果等を有する化合物を利用するものがあるがある(例えば、特許文献1参照)。
そこで更なる検討を重ねた結果、リン脂質及び25℃で液状の油剤をこれらと共に含有することにより、塗布時に滑らかに伸び広がるものとなり、使用性にも優れたものとなった。これは25℃で液状の油剤を含有することにより、前出の油剤が相互溶解することで、肌への作用が効果的になるとともに、数平均分子量900〜3200の流動イソパラフィンのべたつきが抑えられたためだと考えられる。
(A)リン脂質
(B)数平均分子量200〜350の流動イソパラフィン
(C)数平均分子量900〜3200の流動イソパラフィン
(D)25℃で液状の油剤(ただし、成分(B)、(C)を除く)
(E)水
を含有することを特徴とする水中油型乳化組成物に関する。
例えば水素添加大豆リン脂質、水素添加卵黄リン脂質、水素添加ホスファチジルコリン、水素添加ホスファチジルセリン等が挙げられ、リン脂質より脂肪酸基が一つ外れたリゾリン脂質でも良く、これを水素添加した水素添加リゾリン脂質であってもよい。市販品の水素添加リン脂質の例としてはレシノール S−10、レシノール S−10E、レシノール S−10M、レシノール S−10EX、レシノール S−PIE(日光ケミカルズ社製)、COATSOME NC−21(NOF社製)、Phospholipon100H、Phospholipon90H、Phospholipon80H、Phospholipon90G(Phospholipid社製)等がある。水素添加リゾリン脂質の例としては、LP70H(日本精化社製)、SLP−ホワイトリゾH、SLP−LPC 70H(辻製油社製)等がある。
本発明においては、成分(D)25℃で液状の油剤(ただし、成分(B)、(C)を除く)は、肌に塗布した際に塗布時の伸び広がりに優れるものとすることができる。なお成分(D)の粘度は、特に限定されるものではないが、25℃において、10000mpa・s以下のものが好ましく、3000mpa・s以下であればより好ましい。ここでの粘度は、芝浦システム社製単一円筒型回転粘度計ビスメトロンVS−A1を用いて、3号ローターで6回転、60秒後の条件にて測定した値である。
下記表1〜3に示す処方の水中油型乳化クリームを調製し、塗布時の伸び広がり、肌の柔軟性、肌のハリ感について下記の方法により評価した。その結果も併せて表1〜3に示す。
A:成分1〜3を70℃で均一に溶解混合する。
B:成分4〜19を70℃で均一に溶解混合する。
C:AにBを添加し70℃で乳化する。
D:Cに成分20〜22を添加混合した後、40℃まで冷却して水中油型乳化クリームを得た。
イ.塗布時の伸び広がり
ロ.肌の柔軟性
ハ.肌のハリ感
[イ、ロ、ハについて(官能評価)]
各試料について専門パネル20名が皮膚に塗布した時に感じる、塗布時の伸び広がり、肌の柔軟性、肌のハリ感をパネル各人が下記絶対評価にて5段階に評価し評点を付け、各試料ごとにパネル全員の評点合計から、その平均値を算出し、下記4段階判定基準により判定した。
絶対評価基準
(評点):(評価)
5点:非常に肌に滑らかに伸び広がったと感じる
4点:肌に滑らかに伸び広がったと感じる
3点:普通
2点:あまり肌に滑らかに伸び広がったと感じない
1点:肌に滑らかに伸び広がったと感ない
4段階判定基準
(判定):(評点の平均点)
◎ :4点を超える :非常に良好
○ :3点を超える4点以下 :良好
△ :2点を超える3点以下 :やや不良
× :2点以下 :不良
絶対評価基準
(評点):(評価)
5点:非常に肌が柔らかくなったと感じる
4点:肌が柔らかくなったと感じる
3点:普通
2点:あまり肌が柔らかくなったと感じない
1点:肌が柔らかくなったと感じない
4段階判定基準
(判定):(評点の平均点)
◎ :4点を超える :非常に良好
○ :3点を超える4点以下 :良好
△ :2点を超える3点以下 :やや不良
× :2点以下 :不良
絶対評価基準
(評点):(評価)
5点:ハリ感を非常に感じる
4点:ハリ感を感じる
3点:普通
2点:あまりハリ感を感じない
1点:ハリ感を感じない
4段階判定基準
(判定):(評点の平均点)
◎ :4点を超える :非常に良好
○ :3点を超える4点以下 :良好
△ :2点を超える3点以下 :やや不良
× :2点以下 :不良
これに対して成分(A)を含有していない比較品1では乳化不良で水中油型乳化クリームを調製することができず、評価することができなかった。また、成分(A)を他の乳化剤に置き換えた比較品2では、肌の柔軟性に劣っていた。また、成分(B)を含有していない比較品3では特に肌の柔軟性の点で、満足いくものが得られなかった。また、成分(C)を含有していない比較品4では特に肌のハリ感の点で、他の比較品よりも劣っていた。成分(B)及び成分(C)の代わりに、成分(B)及び成分(C)の数平均分子量の範囲内に分子量分布を持つ流動イソパラフィン(数平均分子量400)を含有した比較品5では、肌の柔軟性及び肌のハリ感の点で、本発明品1と比較して劣ったものであった。このことから成分(B)及び成分(C)の数平均分子量の範囲内に一部分子量分布が重なると考えられる流動イソパラフィンを含有したとしても、本発明品と同様の効果が得られるわけではないことが分かった。また、成分(D)を含有していない比較品6では、塗布時の伸び広がりに劣っているだけではなく、肌の柔軟性、肌のハリ感においても本発明品に比べ劣るものであった。
以上の検討結果から、本発明品である成分(A)〜成分(E)の全てを含有したものでなければ、塗布時の伸び広がり、肌の柔軟性、肌のハリ感に優れたものとはならないことが示された。
(成分) (%)
1.水素添加大豆リン脂質 1.0
2.ステアリン酸メチルタウリンNa 0.5
3.流動イソパラフィン(注1) 3.0
4.流動イソパラフィン(注4) 2.0
5.セトステアリルアルコール 1.5
6.親油型モノステアリン酸グリセリル 0.5
7.メドウフォーム油 1.0
8.アボガド油 1.0
9.トリ2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル 1.0
10.ワセリン 1.0
11.オレイン酸フィトステリル 0.5
12.1,3−ブチレングリコール 8.0
13.グリセリン 4.0
14.精製水 残部
15.カルボキシビニルポリマー(注9) 0.1
16.アクリル酸・メタクリル酸アルキル共重合体(注10) 0.2
17.トリエタノールアミン 0.1
18.グリコシルトレハロース 2.0
19.エタノール 5.0
20.パラオキシ安息香酸メチル 0.1
21.フェノキシエタノール 適量
22.香料 適量
注9)カーボポール980(LUBRIZOL社製)
注10)ペミュレンTR−1(NOVEON社製)
A:成分1〜11を70℃で均一に溶解混合する。
B:成分12〜14を70℃で均一に溶解混合する。
C:AにBを添加し70℃で乳化する。
D:Cを40℃まで冷却し、成分15〜22を添加して均一に混合し、水中油型乳化アイクリームを得た。
(成分) (%)
1.水素添加大豆リン脂質 1.0
2.水素添加リゾリン脂質 0.1
3.流動イソパラフィン(注11) 2.0
4.流動イソパラフィン(注3) 0.5
5.セトステアリルアルコール 1.0
6.マカデミアンナッツ油 2.0
7.オリーブ油 1.0
8.トリ(カプリン酸/カプリル酸)グリセリル 1.0
9.オレイン酸エチル 0.1
10.ジブチルヒドロキシトルエン 適量
11.1,3−ブチレングリコール 6.0
12.ジプロピレングリコール 2.0
13.精製水 残部
14.カルボマー(注9) 0.1
15.キサンタンガム 0.1
16.アルカリゲネス産生多糖体 0.02
17.水酸化ナトリウム 0.04
18.グリコシルトレハロース 2.0
19.エタノール 3.0
20.パラオキシ安息香酸メチル 0.1
21.フェノキシエタノール 適量
22.香料 適量
注11) クロラータムLES(クローダジャパン社製)
A:成分1〜10を70℃で均一に溶解混合する。
B:成分11〜13を70℃で均一に溶解混合する。
C:AにBを添加し70℃で乳化する。
D:Cを40℃まで冷却し、成分14〜22を添加して均一に混合し、水中油型乳化美容液を得た。
(成分) (%)
1.ステアリン酸 18.0
2.水素添加リン脂質 0.1
3.流動イソパラフィン(注1) 0.2
4.流動イソパラフィン(注5) 0.2
5.セトステアリルアルコール 4.0
6.メドウフォーム油 2.0
7.トリエタノールアミン 5.0
8.グリセリン 適量
9.パラオキシ安息香酸メチル 0.1
10.精製水 残部
A:成分7〜10を70℃で均一に溶解混合する。
B:成分1〜6を70℃で均一に溶解混合する。
C:AにBを徐々に加え、これを冷却しながら混合し、軟膏剤を得た。
Claims (5)
- 次の成分(A)〜(E);
(A)リン脂質
(B)数平均分子量200〜350の流動イソパラフィン
(C)数平均分子量900〜3200の流動イソパラフィン
(D)炭素数8〜22の脂肪酸と、グリセリンとのトリエステルを含む25℃で液状の油剤
(E)水
を含有することを特徴とする水中油型乳化組成物。 - 前記成分(B)、(C)の含有質量割合(B)/(C)が、0.05〜10の範囲であることを特徴とする請求項1記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
- 前記成分(C)、(D)の含有質量割合(C)/(D)が、1以下であることを特徴とする請求項1又は2記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
- 化粧料又は皮膚外用剤であることを特徴とする請求項1〜3のいずれかの項記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
- 成分(D)が、5質量%未満であることを特徴とする請求項1〜4のいずれかの項記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
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