JP4789464B2 - 皮膚外用剤 - Google Patents
皮膚外用剤 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP4789464B2 JP4789464B2 JP2004382183A JP2004382183A JP4789464B2 JP 4789464 B2 JP4789464 B2 JP 4789464B2 JP 2004382183 A JP2004382183 A JP 2004382183A JP 2004382183 A JP2004382183 A JP 2004382183A JP 4789464 B2 JP4789464 B2 JP 4789464B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- glycol
- ether
- weight
- skin
- ascorbic acid
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
また、水を含まない皮膚外用剤においてアスコルビン酸を安定に可溶化するための方法も検討されており、例えば、アスコルビン酸をプロピレングリコールとブチレングリコールからなるグリコールキャリアーとエトキシジグリコール等の安定化剤を含む非水性媒体中にアスコルビン酸が安定に可溶化されることが報告されている(特許文献2:WO00/76547)。
(1)(A)アスコルビン酸またはその塩3重量%以上、
(B)グリコール、グリコールエーテル、グリセリンおよびジグリセリンから選択される1種または2種以上、並びに
(C)低分子ベタイン
を含有する皮膚外用剤。
(2)(A)アスコルビン酸またはその塩、
(B)グリコールエーテル、
(C)低分子ベタイン
を含有する皮膚外用剤。
(3)(A)アスコルビン酸またはその塩、
(B)グリコールエーテル、
(C)グリコール、グリセリンおよびジグリセリンから選択される1種または2種以上、並びに
(D)低分子ベタイン
を含有する皮膚外用剤。
(4)アスコルビン酸を3重量%以上含有する(2)または(3)に記載の皮膚外用剤。
(5)(A)水溶性アスコルビン酸、その誘導体、またはそれらの塩
(B)グリコール、グリコールエーテル、グリセリンおよびジグリセリンから選択される1種または2種以上、並びに
(C)低分子ベタインからなる溶解補助剤
を含有する皮膚外用剤。
(6)グリコール、グリコールエーテル、グリセリンおよびジグリセリンの合計重量が、皮膚外用剤全体の30〜95重量%である(1)〜(5)のいずれかに記載の皮膚外用剤。
(7)(A)アスコルビン酸またはその塩10〜20重量%、
(B)グリコール、グリセリンおよびジグリセリンから選択される1種または2種以上3〜25重量%、
(C)グリコールエーテル45〜55重量%、
(D)低分子ベタイン1〜5重量%、並びに
(E)水5〜25重量%
を含有する皮膚外用剤。
(8)(A)アスコルビン酸またはその塩15〜20重量%、
(B)グリコール、グリセリンおよびジグリセリンから選択される1種または2種以上4〜21重量%、
(C)グリコールエーテル50〜53重量%、
(D)低分子ベタイン2〜4重量%、並びに
(E)水10〜20重量%
を含有する皮膚外用剤。
(9)低分子ベタインがトリメチルグリシンである(1)〜(8)のいずれかに記載の皮膚外用剤。
(10)さらに美白成分、抗炎症成分、抗菌成分、細胞賦活化成分、収斂成分、抗酸化成分、老化防止成分及び保湿成分からなる群から選択される少なくとも1種を含有する(1)〜(9)のいずれかに記載の皮膚外用剤。
(11)低分子ベタインからなる酸性有機化合物の溶解補助剤。
また、本発明は以下の(12)に示す水溶性アスコルビン酸の安定化方法をも包含する。
(12)(A)水溶性アスコルビン酸、その誘導体、またはそれらの塩、(B)グリコール、グリコールエーテル、グリセリンおよびジグリセリンから選択される1種または2種以上を含有する皮膚外用剤に、低分子ベタインを併用することによる、水溶性アスコルビン酸の安定化方法。
なお、本明細書中、特に言及しない限り、%は重量%を意味するものとする。
また、本発明で用いられる水溶性アスコルビン酸またはその誘導体は、前記アスコルビン酸の他、医薬品、医薬部外品または化粧品分野において皮膚外用剤の成分として用いられるものであれば特に限定されず、アスコルビン酸のエステル誘導体またはエーテル誘導体を挙げることができる。具体的には、エステル誘導体としてはL−アスコルビン酸モノリン酸エステル,L−アスコルビン酸ジリン酸エステルまたはL−アスコルビン酸トリリン酸エステル等のL−アスコルビン酸のリン酸エステル誘導体;L−アスコルビン酸−2−硫酸エステル等が例示できる。また、エーテル誘導体としてはL−アスコルビン酸−2−グルコシド等が例示できる。なかでも、好ましくはL−アスコルビン酸、L−アスコルビン酸のリン酸エステル誘導体、L−アスコルビン酸−2−硫酸エステル、L−アスコルビン酸−2−グルコシドであり、皮膚や粘膜に対する安全性の高さと作用効果の高さから、特に好ましくは、L−アスコルビン酸、L−アスコルビン酸モノリン酸エステル、L−アスコルビン酸−2−グルコシドである。
また、本発明の皮膚外用剤は、低分子ベタインからなる溶解補助剤を配合することによって水溶性アスコルビン酸を安定に可溶化できるため、水溶性アスコルビン酸の配合量は、本発明の効果を奏すれば特に制限されないが、皮膚外用剤全重量に対して通常0.1〜30重量%であり、かかる範囲内において所望する水溶性アスコルビン酸の各種作用や皮膚外用剤の用途に応じて適宜選択することができる。本発明の効果から鑑みて、好ましくは1〜25重量%、特に好ましくは5〜20重量%の範囲である。
また、本発明で用いられるグリセリンおよびジグリセリンは、皮膚外用剤などに頻用されている公知の化合物である。
これらの中で、好ましい組み合わせとしては、(i)グリコールエーテルのみ、(ii)グリコール、グリセリンおよびジグリセリンから選択される1種または2種以上とグリコールエーテルが挙げられる。
皮膚外用剤全体に対するグリコールエーテルの配合量は前記の通りであるが、皮膚外用剤全体に対するグリコール、グリセリンおよびジグリセリンの配合量は、これらの合計量として、好ましくは30〜95重量%、より好ましくは40〜90重量%、さらに好ましくは45〜80重量%、特に好ましくは50〜75重量%であればよいが、本発明の効果を奏すれば特に制限されない。
本発明において低分子ベタインとは、分子量200以下の分子内で両性イオンを形成するものを示し、具体的には、4級アンモニウム塩基、4級ホスホニウム塩基、3級スルホニウム塩基等が挙げられ、これらは界面活性剤としての性質をほとんど示さない。中でも好ましくは、下記式(1)
具体的には、n=1のトリメチルグリシン、トリエチルグリシン、トリプロピルグリシン、トリイソプロピルグリシン、n=2のトリメチル−β−アラニン、n=3のトリメチル−γ−アミノ酪酸等が挙げられ、好ましくはトリメチルグリシンである。
また、これらの低分子ベタインは置換されていてもよく、具体的には、n=1のN,N,N−トリメチルアラニン、N,N,N−トリエチルアラニン、N,N,N−トリイソプロピルアラニン、N,N,N−トリメチルメチルアラニン、カルニチン、アセチルカルニチン等が挙げられ、好ましくはカルニチンである。
また、本発明の皮膚外用剤において低分子ベタインからなる溶解補助剤の配合量は、水溶性アスコルビン酸を安定に可溶化できれば特に制限されないが、皮膚外用剤全重量に対して通常0.01〜10重量%であり、かかる範囲内において所望する水溶性アスコルビン酸の各種作用や皮膚外用剤の用途に応じて適宜選択することができる。本発明の効果から鑑みて、好ましくは0.1〜9重量%、特に好ましくは1〜8重量%の範囲である。ここで、低分子ベタインからなる溶解補助剤は、水溶性アスコルビン酸を可溶化する目的で配合している。
さらに、低分子ベタインは水溶性アスコルビン酸に限定されず、広く酸性有機化合物の溶解補助剤として用いることができる。この時、低分子ベタインからなる溶解補助剤と、酸性有機化合物を含有する組成物において、酸性有機化合物を安定に溶解させることができる。前記組成物には、グリコール、グリコールエーテル、グリセリンまたはジグリセリンのいずれか1種または2種以上を含有しているとより好ましい。
本発明の皮膚外用剤中における水の配合割合は、水溶性アスコルビン酸の水溶液中の不安定性から鑑みて、水溶性アスコルビン酸1重量部に対して2重量部以下であればよく、1.5重量以下がより好ましく、1重量以下がさらに好ましい。2重量部を超えると水溶性アスコルビン酸の分解が許容できなくなる傾向にある。
本発明の皮膚外用剤中に配合される水の配合量は、本発明の効果を奏すれば特に制限されないが、皮膚外用剤全体に対して5〜35重量%である。かかる範囲内において適宜選択して用いることができるが、水溶性アスコルビン酸の安定性の観点から好ましくは5〜20重量%、特に好ましくは8〜13重量%の範囲である。
(A)アスコルビン酸またはその塩10〜20重量%、
(B)グリコール、グリセリンおよびジグリセリンから選択される1種または2種以上3〜25重量%、
(C)グリコールエーテル45〜55重量%、
(D)低分子ベタイン1〜5重量%、並びに
(E)水5〜25重量%
成分としてさらに好ましくは、アスコルビン酸またはその塩ではアスコルビン酸であり、グリコール、グリセリンおよびジグリセリンではプロピレングリコールおよびジグリセリンであり、グリコールエーテルとしてはジエチレングリコールモノエチルエーテルであり、低分子ベタインとしてはトリメチルグリシンである。
(A)アスコルビン酸またはその塩15〜20重量%、
(B)グリコール、グリセリンおよびジグリセリンから選択される1種または2種以上4〜21重量%、
(C)グリコールエーテル50〜53重量%、
(D)低分子ベタイン2〜4重量%、並びに
(E)水10〜20重量%
成分としてさらに好ましくは、アスコルビン酸またはその塩ではアスコルビン酸であり、グリコール、グリセリンおよびジグリセリンではプロピレングリコールおよびジグリセリンであり、グリコールエーテルとしてはジエチレングリコールモノエチルエーテルであり、低分子ベタインとしてはトリメチルグリシンである。
これらの植物成分を本発明の皮膚外用剤に用いる場合、植物成分の形態は特に制限されないが、通常は植物エキス(植物抽出物)や精油などの態様で使用することができる。なお、上記植物成分中に記載の( )内は、その植物の種類、別名または生薬名である。
美白成分として美白作用のある植物成分を用いる場合は、目的に応じて1種もしくは2種以上を任意に組み合わせて使用することができる。上記植物成分を美白成分として用いる場合、本発明の皮膚外用剤への配合割合は、エキスや精油などの抽出物換算で、通常0.00001〜20重量%、好ましくは0.0001〜15重量%、より好ましくは0.001〜10重量%である。また、植物成分は水溶性アスコルビン酸100重量部に対して0.0001〜100重量部、好ましくは0.001〜50重量部の割合になるように配合することが望ましい。
本発明の方法において、水溶性アスコルビン酸、グリコール、グリコールエーテル、グリセリン、ジグリセリンおよび低分子ベタインやこれらの含有量などについては、前記皮膚外用剤で用いたものと同様である。さらに本方法にて得られた物は、用途などに応じて1日あたり1回から数回に分けて、公知あるいは慣用されている用法・用量にて使用することができる。
表1に記載の処方(重量%)に従って、トリメチルグリシン、ジエチレングリコールモノエチルエーテル、1,3−ブチレングリコール、ポリオキシエチレン(60)硬化ヒマシ油、水の混合溶液に、アスコルビン酸を添加して加温・混合して溶解させて、製剤を調製した。
《可溶化》
各製剤を4℃及び室温で1ヶ月放置した後、各試験液を目視観察して結晶析出の有無を判定した。
《使用感、効果感》
30名の被験者を対象に、下記の項目について、調製直後の各製剤を肌に塗布した時の使用感、および各製剤を1ヶ月間使用した後の効果感について評価を行った。
使用感:塗布時の製剤ののび、肌なじみ、きしみ
効果感:しみが薄くなった、顔の色むらがなくなったなどの美白効果
しわが目立たなくなった、毛穴が目立たなくなったなどの肌の弾力効果
皮膚表面が滑らかになったなどの保湿効果
上記項目について、使用感、効果感をそれぞれ総合的に、満足、やや満足、普通、やや不満、不満の5段階評価を行ってもらい、満足およびやや満足とした被験者数が20人以上の場合は○、満足およびやや満足とした被験者数が10〜19人の場合は△、満足およびやや満足とした被験者数が9人以下の場合は×を記した。
《残存率》
実施例1、比較例4の製剤を50℃で2週間放置後、アスコルビン酸の残存率(%)を測定した。
結果を表1に示す。
水を含有している製剤において、比較例2は、比較例1と同様に使用感が悪く、使用感が悪い上、経時的に析出が起こるために、1ヶ月間試験を行うことができなかった。また、比較例3ではトリメチルグリシンの代わりに界面活性剤を配合しているが、調製時にアスコルビン酸を溶解することができず、製剤として成り立たなかった。さらに、比較例4では効果感が悪く、4℃では結晶が析出する上、残存率が著しく低下していた。一方、実施例2においては可溶化、使用感、効果感、残存率のいずれも満足できるものであった。
このように、低分子ベタインを配合した本発明は、水溶性アスコルビン酸等の酸性有機化合物を安定に可溶化でき、使用感および効果感に優れ、水溶性アスコルビン酸の残存率が高いことが確認された。
Claims (7)
- (A)アスコルビン酸またはその塩3重量%以上、
(B)グリコール、グリコールエーテルおよびジグリセリンから選択される1種または2種以上、並びに
(C)トリメチルグリシン
を含有し、該(B)成分が皮膚外用剤全体に対して30〜95重量%含まれる、皮膚外用剤。 - (A)アスコルビン酸、またはその塩
(B)グリコール、グリコールエーテルおよびジグリセリンから選択される1種または2種以上、並びに
(C)トリメチルグリシンからなる溶解補助剤
を含有し、該(B)成分が皮膚外用剤全体に対して30〜95重量%含まれる、皮膚外用剤。 - アスコルビン酸またはその塩が、皮膚外用剤の全体に対して3〜30重量%含まれる、請求項1または2に記載の皮膚外用剤。
- トリメチルグリシンが、皮膚外用剤の全体に対して0.1〜9重量%含まれる、請求項1〜3のいずれかに記載の皮膚外用剤。
- (A)アスコルビン酸、またはその塩、(B)グリコール、グリコールエーテルおよびジグリセリンから選択される1種または2種以上を含有し、該(B)成分が皮膚外用剤全体に対して30〜95重量%含まれる皮膚外用剤に、トリメチルグリシンを併用することによる、アスコルビン酸またはその塩の安定化方法。
- アスコルビン酸またはその塩が、皮膚外用剤の全体に対して3〜30重量%含まれる、請求項5に記載の安定化方法。
- トリメチルグリシンが、皮膚外用剤の全体に対して0.1〜9重量%の割合で併用される、請求項5または6に記載の安定化方法。
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