JP2007162157A - Method for resin finishing of yarn for denim and denim fabric - Google Patents
Method for resin finishing of yarn for denim and denim fabric Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
Description
本発明は、デニム生地の経糸として有効に用いられるデニム用糸の樹脂加工方法及びこのデニム用糸を経糸に用いたデニム生地に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a resin processing method of a denim yarn that is effectively used as a warp of a denim fabric, and a denim fabric using the denim yarn as a warp.
デニム生地の綿素材での樹脂加工は、形態安定性の向上目的で行われる。また、デニム生地に樹脂加工を行うことで色落ちが変化することが知られており、この作用を利用して、樹脂加工されていないデニム生地と比べて、アタリ(洗いによる経糸の中白の出現)の出方を様々に変えることができる。
しかしながら、生地での樹脂加工により、経糸に加えて緯糸にも樹脂加工剤が作用し、風合いが硬くなったり、引き裂き強力が低下するなどの問題があった。
また、チーズ状で糸の樹脂加工をすることも行われてきた。しかしながら、チーズ状の場合、チーズの外側と内側とで樹脂加工のムラがでる等の問題があった。
Resin processing with denim cotton is performed for the purpose of improving the form stability. In addition, it is known that discoloration changes when resin processing is applied to denim fabric. By using this action, compared to denim fabric that is not resin-processed, Appearance) can be changed in various ways.
However, due to the resin processing on the fabric, the resin processing agent acts on the wefts in addition to the warp yarns, resulting in a problem that the texture becomes hard and the tearing strength decreases.
Moreover, resin processing of the thread | yarn by cheese form has also been performed. However, in the case of cheese, there are problems such as unevenness in resin processing between the outside and inside of the cheese.
特許文献1(特開平11−36153号公報)には、原綿に熱架橋性樹脂、架橋触媒、紡績油剤を含む加工液を付着、乾燥させ、紡績後あるいは更に編織及び縫製後に、加熱して熱セットを行うことが記載されている。
しかしながら、原綿の状態で樹脂加工した場合、繊維の状態で樹脂架橋が行われるために、原綿状態での加工装置を必要とし、また、その後の乾燥工程が必要になる等の問題が生じる。
In Patent Document 1 (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 11-36153), a processing liquid containing a heat-crosslinkable resin, a crosslinking catalyst, and a spinning oil agent is attached to a raw cotton, dried, heated and heated after spinning or further knitting and sewing. It is described that the set is performed.
However, when resin processing is performed in the raw cotton state, since the resin is crosslinked in the fiber state, a processing device in the raw cotton state is required, and a subsequent drying step is required.
特許文献2(特開2000−248468号公報)には、布帛が樹脂被覆されており、繊維交点は樹脂により強固に接着する技術が記載されている。
しかしながら、特許文献2においても、布帛(織物)の状態で樹脂加工を行うために、経糸と緯糸にも架橋反応が起こることにより、風合いが硬くなったり、引き裂き強力が低下したりする問題が生じる。
Patent Document 2 (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-248468) describes a technique in which a fabric is coated with a resin and fiber intersections are firmly bonded with the resin.
However, even in Patent Document 2, since the resin processing is performed in the state of a fabric (woven fabric), a cross-linking reaction occurs in the warp and the weft, thereby causing a problem that the texture becomes hard and the tear strength is reduced. .
本発明は、上記問題を改善したもので、樹脂加工による風合いの硬化、引き裂き強力の低下を起こさず、洗濯による色落ちが従来と異なるデニム生地を作ることを可能とするデニム用糸の樹脂加工方法及びこのデニム用糸を経糸に用いたデニム生地を提供することを目的とする。 The present invention is an improvement of the above-mentioned problems, and it does not cause a hardening of the texture by resin processing, does not cause a decrease in tear strength, and makes it possible to produce a denim fabric that is different from the conventional one in terms of discoloration due to washing. It is an object to provide a method and a denim fabric using the denim yarn as a warp.
本発明は、下記のデニム用糸の樹脂加工方法及びデニム生地を提供する。
[1]セルロース系繊維又はこれと合成繊維との混紡繊維の糸をロープ染色した後、ロープ染色された糸にセルロース繊維素反応型樹脂加工剤を付与し、熱処理を施すことを特徴とするデニム用糸の樹脂加工方法。
[2]セルロース系繊維又はこれと合成繊維との混紡繊維の糸が、綿糸又は混綿糸である[1]のデニム用糸の樹脂加工方法。
[3]前記セルロース繊維素反応型樹脂加工剤は、アルデヒド基、エポキシ基、カルボキシル基、又はメチロール基から選ばれるいずれかの官能基を分子内に少なくとも2個有する化合物からなることを特徴とする[1]又は[2]のデニム用糸の樹脂加工方法。
[4]前記セルロース繊維素反応型樹脂加工剤は、N−メチロール尿素化合物であることを特徴とする[3]のデニム用糸の樹脂加工方法。
[5][1]〜[4]のいずれかの樹脂加工方法により加工処理されたデニム用糸を経糸に用いたデニム生地。
The present invention provides the following resin processing method for denim yarn and denim fabric.
[1] Denim characterized in that a cellulose fiber or a blended fiber of this and synthetic fiber is rope-dyed, and then a cellulose fiber-reactive resin processing agent is applied to the rope-dyed yarn, followed by heat treatment. Resin processing method for yarn.
[2] The resin processing method for denim yarn according to [1], wherein the yarn of the cellulosic fiber or the blended fiber of this and synthetic fiber is a cotton yarn or a blended yarn.
[3] The cellulose fiber-reactive resin processing agent comprises a compound having in the molecule at least two functional groups selected from aldehyde groups, epoxy groups, carboxyl groups, or methylol groups. The resin processing method of the thread | yarn for denim of [1] or [2].
[4] The resin processing method for denim yarn according to [3], wherein the cellulose fiber-reactive resin processing agent is an N-methylolurea compound.
[5] A denim fabric using, as a warp, a denim yarn processed by the resin processing method according to any one of [1] to [4].
本発明は、先染めし樹脂加工した糸を経糸にするので、デニム生地で樹脂加工する場合の問題であるデニム生地の風合いの硬化と引き裂き強力の低下を起こすことはなく、更に、デニム生地特有の色落ち状態を様々に変化させることができる。 Since the present invention uses warp yarns that have been pre-dyed and processed with resin, it does not cause the texture of the denim fabric to harden and tear strength, which is a problem when processing resin with denim fabric. The discoloration state of can be changed variously.
本発明を、以下詳細に説明する。
本発明のデニム用の糸の繊維は、セルロース系繊維又はこれと合成繊維との混紡繊維であり、セルロース系繊維としては、木綿、麻、ビスコースレーヨン、銅アンモニアレーヨン(キュプラ)、テンセル(精製セルロース)、ポリノジック、アセテート等の天然繊維や再生又は半再生セルロース繊維が挙げられ、また、これら天然、再生又は半再生セルロース繊維にポリエステル、ナイロン、アクリル、ポリウレタン等の合成繊維を50質量%以下の割合で混紡して用いることもできる。デニム用糸に用いられる繊維としては、風合いや強力から木綿50質量%以上の混綿糸が好ましく、更には木綿100質量%の綿糸が最も好ましい。
The present invention is described in detail below.
The fiber of the yarn for denim of the present invention is a cellulosic fiber or a blended fiber of this and a synthetic fiber. Examples of the cellulosic fiber include cotton, hemp, viscose rayon, copper ammonia rayon (cupra), and tencel (refined). Cellulose), polynosic, acetate and other natural fibers and regenerated or semi-regenerated cellulose fibers, and these natural, regenerated or semi-regenerated cellulose fibers contain 50% by mass or less of synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, acrylic and polyurethane. It can also be used in a blended ratio. As the fiber used for the denim yarn, a mixed cotton yarn of 50% by mass or more of cotton is preferable from the texture and strength, and further, a cotton yarn of 100% by mass of cotton is most preferable.
本発明においては、まず、デニム生地の経糸に用いる上記の糸を、ロープ染色するためにロープ状にする。ロープ状にした糸を、常法に従ってインジゴ染料の染色液の入った染色液槽に浸漬し、染色液槽から引き出し、空気酸化させることを数回繰り返して染色する。
染色液には、所望の色により硫化染料なども使用できる。また、浸漬時間、空気酸化の時間についても所望の色により設定する。更に、浸漬と空気酸化の繰り返し回数も同様である。
In the present invention, first, the yarn used for the warp of the denim fabric is formed into a rope shape for rope dyeing. The rope-like thread is immersed in a dyeing solution tank containing an indigo dye dyeing solution in accordance with a conventional method, drawn out from the dyeing solution tank, and air-oxidized several times.
A sulfur dye or the like can be used for the dyeing liquid depending on the desired color. Also, the immersion time and the air oxidation time are set according to the desired color. Further, the number of repetitions of immersion and air oxidation is the same.
この後、連続して、糸を樹脂加工剤を含有した水溶液に浸漬して乾燥させる。更に熱処理、場合によっては未反応加工剤の洗浄除去を行う。 Thereafter, the yarn is continuously dipped in an aqueous solution containing a resin processing agent and dried. Further, heat treatment is performed, and in some cases, unreacted processing agent is washed away.
本発明の樹脂加工は、セルロースの水酸基と反応し、繊維間に架橋結合を発生させるための加工であり、上記ロープ染色した糸にセルロース繊維素反応型樹脂加工剤と必要により触媒を付与し、熱処理を施すものである。 The resin processing of the present invention is a process for reacting with a hydroxyl group of cellulose to generate a cross-linking bond between fibers, and imparting a cellulose fiber-reactive resin processing agent and, if necessary, a catalyst to the rope-dyed yarn, Heat treatment is performed.
(1)樹脂加工剤
本発明の樹脂加工剤としては、セルロースの水酸基と反応して架橋を生成するものであればいずれのものでもよい。このような化合物としては、アルデヒド基、エポキシ基、カルボキシル基、及びメチロール基から選ばれるいずれかの官能基を分子内に少なくとも2個有する化合物であることが好ましく、ジヒドロキシエチレン尿素誘導体、メラミン誘導体、エチレン尿素誘導体、エポキシ誘導体、カルボン酸誘導体もしくはこれらの反応基を2つ以上持つ化合物もしくはこれらの混合物が用いられ、例えば、グリオキザール、グルタルアルデヒド等のアルデヒド類、ジグリシジルエーテル等のエポキシ化合物、テトラブタンカルボン酸等のポリカルボン酸類、ジメチロール尿素、トリメチロールメラミン、ジメチロールエチレン尿素、ジメチロールジヒドロキシエチレン尿素等の繊維素反応型N−メチロール化合物等が挙げられる。これらの中でも特に、繊維素反応型N−メチロール化合物、グリオキザール系樹脂等が好ましく、N−メチロール尿素化合物が有効に用いられる。
(1) Resin finishing agent The resin finishing agent of the present invention may be any as long as it reacts with a hydroxyl group of cellulose to form a crosslink. Such a compound is preferably a compound having in the molecule at least two functional groups selected from an aldehyde group, an epoxy group, a carboxyl group, and a methylol group, a dihydroxyethylene urea derivative, a melamine derivative, Ethyleneurea derivatives, epoxy derivatives, carboxylic acid derivatives, compounds having two or more of these reactive groups or mixtures thereof are used, for example, aldehydes such as glyoxal and glutaraldehyde, epoxy compounds such as diglycidyl ether, tetrabutane, etc. Examples thereof include polycarboxylic acids such as carboxylic acid, and fibrin-reactive N-methylol compounds such as dimethylol urea, trimethylol melamine, dimethylol ethylene urea, and dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea. Among these, a fibrin-reactive N-methylol compound, a glyoxal resin, and the like are preferable, and an N-methylol urea compound is effectively used.
(2)触媒
本発明の樹脂加工剤には、樹脂加工剤とセルロースの反応活性を高め、樹脂加工を迅速に行うために、触媒あるいはそれと助触媒を添加することができる。
この触媒としては、通常、樹脂加工に用いられる触媒であれば特に制限されず、例えば、ホウフッ化アンモニウム、ホウフッ化亜塩等のホウフッ化化合物、塩化マグネシウム、硫酸マグネシウム等の中性金属塩触媒、燐酸、塩酸、ホウ酸等の無機酸などが挙げられる。触媒の使用量は、樹脂加工剤に対して10〜15質量%であることが好ましい。
これら触媒には、必要に応じて、助触媒としてクエン酸、酒石酸、リンゴ酸、マレイン酸等の有機酸などを併用することもできる。
また、樹脂加工剤には必要に応じて、風合調整用あるいは引裂強力向上用の柔軟剤や遊離ホルマリン濃度低減のためのホルマリンキャッチャー等を添加することもできる。なお、引裂強力とは、布地に加わる外力が一方向の場合の抵抗を示し、引裂きによって生じる引張力と剪断力による切断荷重を意味する。
(2) Catalyst To the resin processing agent of the present invention, a catalyst or a co-catalyst and a catalyst can be added in order to increase the reaction activity between the resin processing agent and cellulose and perform resin processing quickly.
The catalyst is not particularly limited as long as it is usually a catalyst used for resin processing. For example, borofluoride compounds such as ammonium borofluoride and borofluoride sub-salt, neutral metal salt catalysts such as magnesium chloride and magnesium sulfate, Examples thereof include inorganic acids such as phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid, and boric acid. It is preferable that the usage-amount of a catalyst is 10-15 mass% with respect to a resin processing agent.
These catalysts can be used in combination with organic acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and maleic acid as a co-catalyst, if necessary.
In addition, a softening agent for adjusting the texture or improving the tearing strength, a formalin catcher for reducing the free formalin concentration, and the like can be added to the resin processing agent as necessary. The tear strength indicates resistance when the external force applied to the fabric is unidirectional, and means a cutting load caused by a tensile force and a shear force generated by tearing.
本発明では、樹脂加工剤をロープ状糸に付与するが、付与方法は特に制限されず、通常のパッド・ドライ法、コーティング法、スプレー法等の公知の方法を採用することができるが、パッド・ドライ法が効率的で好ましい。 In the present invention, the resin processing agent is applied to the rope-like yarn, but the application method is not particularly limited, and a known method such as a normal pad-drying method, a coating method, or a spray method can be employed. -The dry method is efficient and preferable.
この場合、樹脂加工剤等は、水に溶解して用いることができるが、樹脂加工剤はその水溶液中2〜10質量%、特に3〜8質量%の濃度であることが、使用性等の点で好ましい。この樹脂加工剤の水溶液に上記ロープ染色した糸を浸漬し、次いでこれを適度な割合で絞るなどの方法によって処理することができる。このようにして処理した後、熱処理を行う。 In this case, the resin processing agent or the like can be used by dissolving in water, but the resin processing agent has a concentration of 2 to 10% by mass, particularly 3 to 8% by mass in the aqueous solution. This is preferable. The rope-dyed yarn can be immersed in an aqueous solution of the resin processing agent and then processed by a method such as squeezing it at an appropriate ratio. After processing in this way, heat treatment is performed.
(3)熱処理
熱処理には、シリンダー乾燥及びベーキング処理がある。
シリンダー乾燥は、130℃で、70〜90秒間行い、また、ベーキング処理は、195℃で、95〜110秒間行うことが好ましい。
熱処理温度と時間は、使用する樹脂加工剤に応じて適切な温度と時間を選択すればよい。
なお、熱処理後は、必要により未反応の樹脂加工剤の洗浄除去を行うことができるが、この洗浄除去には温度40〜65℃の温水等を使用し、湯洗する等の方法を採用することができる。
(3) Heat treatment Heat treatment includes cylinder drying and baking treatment.
The cylinder drying is preferably performed at 130 ° C. for 70 to 90 seconds, and the baking treatment is preferably performed at 195 ° C. for 95 to 110 seconds.
The heat treatment temperature and time may be selected appropriately depending on the resin processing agent to be used.
After the heat treatment, the unreacted resin processing agent can be washed and removed as necessary. For this washing and removal, a method such as hot water washing at a temperature of 40 to 65 ° C. is used. be able to.
以下、実施例及び比較例を示し、本発明を具体的に説明するが、本発明は下記の実施例に制限されるものではない。 EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example and a comparative example are shown and this invention is demonstrated concretely, this invention is not restrict | limited to the following Example.
[実施例1]
染色・樹脂加工
綿7番手の糸を、ロープ状糸にし、インジゴ染料1.6g/Lを混合した染色液に30秒間浸漬し、空気酸化させることを8回繰り返し、染色した。樹脂加工剤は、N−メチロール尿素化合物のリケンレジンRG−17(三木理研社製)を固形分換算3.6質量%の割合で混合した水溶液に2〜5秒間浸漬し、絞り率65%で処理した。
乾燥・熱処理
その後、ロープ状糸を、シリンダー乾燥機にて温度約130℃で80秒間処理し、次に、ヒートセットテンターにて温度約195℃で100秒間熱処理した。
製織
染色、樹脂加工された木綿100質量%の綿番手7番の糸を経糸として65本/インチ、緯糸は通常の綿10番手のものを52本/インチで製織した。
[Example 1]
Dyeing / resin processing Cotton 7th yarn was made into a rope-like yarn, dipped in a dyeing solution mixed with 1.6 g / L of indigo dye for 30 seconds, and air-oxidized repeatedly 8 times. The resin processing agent is immersed for 2 to 5 seconds in an aqueous solution obtained by mixing RIKEN RESIN RG-17 (manufactured by Miki Riken Co., Ltd.), an N-methylol urea compound, at a ratio of 3.6% by mass in terms of solid content, and processed at a drawing ratio of 65%. did.
Thereafter, the rope-like yarn was treated with a cylinder dryer at a temperature of about 130 ° C. for 80 seconds, and then heat treated with a heat set tenter at a temperature of about 195 ° C. for 100 seconds.
Weaving dyed and resin processed 100% by weight cotton yarn No. 7 as a warp yarn of 65 yarns / inch, and weft yarn of normal cotton No. 10 yarn as 52 yarns / inch.
[実施例2]
樹脂加工剤の混合率を固形分換算5.4質量%の水溶液とした以外は実施例1と同様に行った。
[Example 2]
The same procedure as in Example 1 was performed except that the mixing ratio of the resin processing agent was changed to an aqueous solution having a solid content of 5.4% by mass.
[実施例3]
樹脂加工剤の混合率を固形分換算7.2質量%の水溶液とした以外は実施例1と同様に行った。
[Example 3]
The same procedure as in Example 1 was performed except that the mixing ratio of the resin processing agent was changed to an aqueous solution having a solid content conversion of 7.2% by mass.
[比較例1]
比較例1は、実施例1の経糸を樹脂加工なしの糸とした以外は、全く同じとした。
[Comparative Example 1]
Comparative Example 1 was exactly the same except that the warp yarn of Example 1 was a yarn without resin processing.
[比較例2]
比較例2は、実施例1の経糸の樹脂加工なしの糸とし、製織した後、樹脂加工剤の混合率を固形分換算3.6質量%の水溶液でパッド・ドライ法で樹脂加工を行った以外は、全く同じとした。
試験方法
上記で製織した試料の特性を下記方法で測定した。結果を表1に示す。
収縮率 JIS L 1096
最大斜行距離 JIS L 1096 布目曲がりより
引張強力 JIS L 1096 ラベルドストリップ法
引裂強力 JIS L 1096 D法 ペンジュラム法
剛軟度 ASTMD 4032−94
[Comparative Example 2]
In Comparative Example 2, the warp yarn of Example 1 without resin processing was woven, and after weaving, the resin processing was performed by a pad dry method with an aqueous solution having a mixing ratio of the resin processing agent of 3.6 mass% as solid content. Except for this, it was exactly the same.
Test Method The characteristics of the sample woven as described above were measured by the following method. The results are shown in Table 1.
Shrinkage rate JIS L 1096
Maximum skew distance JIS L 1096 Tensile strength from fabric bend JIS L 1096 Tear strength of labeled strip JIS L 1096 Method D Pendulum method Stiffness ASTMD 4032-94
実施例及び比較例の試験布帛は、(1)90℃でマンセル石鹸液で60分洗濯、(2)60℃で15分間すすぎを行った。
The test fabrics of Examples and Comparative Examples were (1) washed with a Munsell soap solution at 90 ° C. for 60 minutes, and (2) rinsed at 60 ° C. for 15 minutes.
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Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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JP2010037683A (en) * | 2008-08-05 | 2010-02-18 | Toray Ind Inc | Denim fabric |
Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPH1136153A (en) * | 1997-07-17 | 1999-02-09 | Toho Rayon Co Ltd | Resin finishing of cellulose-based textile fiber and resin-finished textile product |
JPH11335935A (en) * | 1998-05-26 | 1999-12-07 | Kaihara Kk | Blended yarn for denim and woven or knitted fabric for denim |
JP2005120525A (en) * | 2003-10-17 | 2005-05-12 | Toyobo Co Ltd | Stretch denim and utilization thereof |
-
2005
- 2005-12-13 JP JP2005358396A patent/JP2007162157A/en active Pending
Patent Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPH1136153A (en) * | 1997-07-17 | 1999-02-09 | Toho Rayon Co Ltd | Resin finishing of cellulose-based textile fiber and resin-finished textile product |
JPH11335935A (en) * | 1998-05-26 | 1999-12-07 | Kaihara Kk | Blended yarn for denim and woven or knitted fabric for denim |
JP2005120525A (en) * | 2003-10-17 | 2005-05-12 | Toyobo Co Ltd | Stretch denim and utilization thereof |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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JP2010037683A (en) * | 2008-08-05 | 2010-02-18 | Toray Ind Inc | Denim fabric |
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