JP2005042267A - Method for processing denim fabric and denim fabric processed thereby - Google Patents
Method for processing denim fabric and denim fabric processed thereby Download PDFInfo
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本発明はデニム生地の加工方法および該方法によって加工されたデニム生地に関する。 The present invention relates to a denim fabric processing method and a denim fabric processed by the method.
ブルージーンズに使用されるデニム生地はインジゴ染料によって濃紺に染色された太番手綿糸をタテ糸に、未染色の白い太番手綿糸（生糸）をヨコ糸に用いて形成され、綾組織構造を有する。例えば、代表的な綾組織である「3/1綾」では表面にタテ糸染色糸が75％、ヨコ未染色白糸が25％現れて生地の表面に斜めの綾線模様を形成する。また例えば、「2/1綾」では同様に表面にタテ染色糸が67％、ヨコ未染色糸が33％現れて斜めの綾線模様を形成する。織り上げられたデニム生地はこのあと防縮加工工程でタテ方向に約14％、ヨコ方向に約6％縮められるために表面に現れるヨコ糸（生糸）が少なくなり、斜めの綾線が見えにくくなる。さらにジーンズなどの製品に縫製されたあと、デニム生地は洗濯によってタテ方向及びヨコ方向に収縮し、織上がりからではタテ方向に約16％、ヨコ方向に約8％収縮して表面に現れるヨコ糸（生糸）が非常に見えにくい状態になり、斜めの綾線がさらに見えにくくなる。 Denim fabric used for blue jeans is formed using thick cotton yarn dyed darkly with indigo dye as warp yarn and undyed white thick cotton yarn (raw yarn) as horizontal yarn, and has a twill structure. For example, in “3/1 twill”, which is a typical twill structure, 75% of warp yarn dyed yarn and 25% of uncolored white yarn appear on the surface, forming a diagonal twill pattern on the surface of the fabric. Further, for example, in “2/1 twill”, 67% of warp dyed yarn and 33% of undyed yarn appear on the surface in the same manner to form a diagonal twill pattern. The woven denim fabric is then shrunk by about 14% in the warp direction and about 6% in the width direction in the shrink-proofing process, so that there are fewer wefts (raw yarn) appearing on the surface, making it difficult to see diagonal twill. Furthermore, after being sewn on a product such as jeans, the denim fabric shrinks in the vertical and horizontal directions by washing, and after weaving, the horizontal thread appears on the surface after shrinking by about 16% in the vertical direction and about 8% in the horizontal direction. The (raw silk) becomes very difficult to see, and the oblique twill lines become even less visible.
ブルージーンズのユーザーからのデニム生地に対する品質要求は常に時代と共に変化するが、現在、特に以下の事項が求められている；
（1）表面に明瞭な綾線が現れていること、
（2）洗濯後の生地がしわになりにくくフラットな外観、および
（3）綿のドライでソフトな自然な風合いと軽量感。
これらの要求に対応するために従来からいろいろな方法がおこなわれている。特に（1）の洗い後に綾線が明瞭に現れるようにするために、使用する糸を変化させたり織り規格を変化させたりする方法も行われているが、生地の加工工程でも従来から次のような方法が行われている。
The quality requirements for denim fabrics from users of blue jeans are constantly changing with the times, but currently the following are particularly required:
(1) A clear twill line appears on the surface,
(2) The fabric after washing is less likely to wrinkle and has a flat appearance, and (3) The dry, soft natural texture and lightness of cotton.
Various methods have been conventionally used to meet these requirements. In particular, in order to make the twill lines appear clearly after washing in (1), the method of changing the yarn used or changing the weaving standard has also been carried out, but in the fabric processing process as well, Such a method has been carried out.
（i）樹脂加工
デニムに形態安定樹脂加工を施すことによって生地が収縮するのを抑制し、それによって洗い後のしわ防止や綾線の消失防止を行う。しかしながら、この方法では生地が硬化し強度低下を起こすという欠点がある。また、ソフトで自然な風合いが損なわれる欠点がある。さらに綾線の現れ方も不十分である。
(I) Resin processing By applying a form-stable resin processing to denim, the fabric is prevented from shrinking, thereby preventing wrinkles after washing and the disappearance of twill lines. However, this method has a drawback that the dough is cured and the strength is reduced. In addition, there is a drawback that the soft and natural texture is impaired. Furthermore, the appearance of the twill lines is also insufficient.
（ii）シルケット加工（アルカリ処理、マーセル化）
生地を苛性ソーダ溶液に浸漬し綿繊維が膨潤して収縮しようとするところをタテ、ヨコに双方に緊張を与え、生地の繊維配列度および繊維密度を高める。それによって生地表面のフラット感と綾線の確保をする。詳しくは、綿織物のシルケット加工においては、生地を通常17％〜25％濃度の苛性ソーダ溶液に浸漬させた後、タテ方向およびヨコ方向に引っ張りながら20秒〜60秒間大気中に滞留させる。その後、水洗、湯洗、酸による中和および乾燥を行う。生地を浸漬するときの苛性ソーダ溶液の温度は低いほど効果があるとされるが通常は20℃前後で行われる。しかしながら、この方法では織物組織内の繊維密度が高まり生地に高密度感と重量感が出て軽量感に欠けると共にドライでソフトな自然の風合いが損なわれる。また綾線の明瞭さも不十分である。
(Ii) mercerization (alkali treatment, mercerization)
When the fabric is immersed in a caustic soda solution, the cotton fibers are swollen and shrunk, and tension is applied to both the vertical and horizontal sides to increase the fiber arrangement degree and fiber density of the fabric. This ensures the flatness of the fabric surface and the twill lines. Specifically, in the mercerization of cotton fabric, the fabric is usually immersed in a caustic soda solution having a concentration of 17% to 25% and then retained in the atmosphere for 20 seconds to 60 seconds while being pulled in the vertical and horizontal directions. Thereafter, washing with water, washing with hot water, neutralization with acid and drying are performed. It is said that the lower the temperature of the caustic soda solution when dipping the dough, the more effective, but it is usually performed at around 20 ° C. However, in this method, the fiber density in the woven fabric structure is increased, and the fabric has a high density and weight feeling and lacks in light weight, and the dry and soft natural texture is impaired. The clarity of the twill lines is also insufficient.
（iii）液体アンモニア処理（液体アンモニアマーセル化）
生地を液体アンモニアに浸漬して綿繊維を膨潤させた後、タテ方向に引っ張ってタテ糸綿繊維の配列を高めるものである。しかしながら、この方法では風合いがソフトになり過ぎていわゆる腰がなくなり、さらにはドライな風合い（手触り感）に欠ける。またヨコ方向の収縮が大きく綾線の明瞭さも不十分である。
(Iii) Liquid ammonia treatment (liquid ammonia mercerization)
The fabric is immersed in liquid ammonia to swell the cotton fibers, and then pulled in the vertical direction to increase the arrangement of the warp cotton fibers. However, with this method, the texture becomes too soft and the so-called waist is lost, and furthermore, the dry texture (feel of touch) is lacking. Moreover, the shrinkage in the horizontal direction is large and the clarity of the twill lines is insufficient.
本発明は、表面に十分に明瞭な綾線が現れたデニム生地、および該デニム生地を提供可能なデニム生地の加工方法を提供することを目的とする。 An object of the present invention is to provide a denim fabric in which a sufficiently clear twill line appears on the surface, and a denim fabric processing method capable of providing the denim fabric.
本発明は、表面に十分に明瞭な綾線が現れ、ドライでソフトな自然な風合いと軽量感とを有し、しわになりにくくフラットな外観を呈するデニム生地、および該デニム生地を提供可能なデニム生地の加工方法を提供することを目的とする。 INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The present invention can provide a denim fabric that has a sufficiently clear twill line on the surface, has a dry and soft natural texture and lightness, is less likely to wrinkle and has a flat appearance, and the denim fabric. It aims at providing the processing method of denim fabric.
本発明は、デニム生地の表面のみを苛性ソーダ溶液により処理した後、デニム生地を該生地の少なくともタテ糸方向に緊張させながら大気中に滞留させることを特徴とするデニム生地の加工方法および該方法によって加工されたデニム生地に関する。 According to the present invention, after processing only the surface of the denim fabric with a caustic soda solution, the denim fabric is retained in the atmosphere while being tensioned in at least the warp yarn direction of the fabric, and the denim fabric processing method and method Regarding processed denim fabric.
本発明の方法により、従来得ることができなかったようなインジゴデニムに要求される生地表面の明瞭な綾線と軽量感のあるドライでソフトな風合いを得ることができる。しかもこの外観と風合いは洗濯することによっても消失されにくい。さらに本発明の方法によって加工されたデニム生地はしわになりにくくフラットな外観を呈する。 By the method of the present invention, a clear twill line on the surface of the fabric required for indigo denim, which could not be obtained in the past, and a dry and soft texture with a light feeling can be obtained. Moreover, this appearance and texture are not easily lost even by washing. Furthermore, the denim fabric processed by the method of the present invention is less likely to wrinkle and exhibits a flat appearance.
本発明においてはまず、デニム生地の表面のみを苛性ソーダ溶液で処理する。
本発明で使用されるデニム生地は、パンツ（ジーパン）、ジャンパー（ジージャン）およびスカート等の衣類の生地として使用される、いわゆるブルージーンズである。デニム生地は、詳しくは、インジゴ染料によって染色された綿糸をタテ糸、未染色の綿糸（生糸）をヨコ糸としてあや織りしてなるものであり、染色されたタテ糸が比較的多く現れる表側の面（表面）と、未染色のヨコ糸が比較的多く現れる裏側の面（裏面）とを有する。デニム生地の表面において具体的にはタテ糸が斜め方向に畝（うね）をなして綾線を表し、各綾線の間にヨコ糸が現れて溝線を表し、全体として綾線模様が形成される。例えば、「3/1綾組織」の表面ではタテ糸染色糸が75％、ヨコ糸未染色白糸が25％現れ、そのような割合でもって全体として綾線模様が形成されている。また例えば、「2/1綾組織」の表面ではタテ糸染色糸が67％、ヨコ未染色白糸が33％現れ、そのような割合でもって全体として綾線模様が形成されている。
In the present invention, first, only the surface of the denim fabric is treated with a caustic soda solution.
The denim fabric used in the present invention is so-called blue jeans used as clothing fabrics such as pants (jeep), jumpers (jean) and skirts. Specifically, denim fabric is made by weaving cotton yarn dyed with indigo dye as warp yarn and undyed cotton yarn (raw yarn) as weft yarn, and the front side where a relatively large amount of dyed warp yarn appears. It has a surface (front surface) and a back surface (back surface) where a relatively large amount of undyed weft yarn appears. Specifically, on the surface of the denim fabric, the warp yarns are diagonally ridged to represent a twill line, a weft thread appears between each twill line to represent a groove line, and the twill line pattern as a whole It is formed. For example, 75% of the warp dyed yarn and 25% of the undyed white yarn appear on the surface of the “3/1 twill structure”, and the entire pattern is formed with such a ratio. Further, for example, on the surface of “2/1 twill structure”, 67% of warp dyed yarn and 33% of undyed white yarn appear, and a twill pattern is formed as a whole at such a ratio.
デニム生地は適度な撥水性を有していることが好ましい。デニム生地が適度な撥水性を有すると、苛性ソーダ溶液による生地表面のみの処理を有効かつ容易に行うことができる。すなわち、苛性ソーダ溶液が生地表面に塗布されても、はじかれずに生地表面を濡らすことができ、かつ当該溶液を生地内部にしみ込ませずに生地表面に留保できる。そのような適度な撥水性として、デニム生地表面に水滴を落としたときの水の接触角が30〜120°、特に45〜90°となるような撥水性を有していることが好ましい。撥水性が高すぎると苛性ソーダ溶液をはじいてしまい、苛性ソーダ溶液による処理を有効に行い難い。撥水性が低すぎると苛性ソーダ溶液が生地内部に浸透し、生地表面のみを処理しているにもかかわらず、結果として溶液が生地裏面にまで到達し易いため、本発明の効果が得られ難い。なお、本発明においてデニム生地は適度な撥水性を有しなければならないというわけではなく、本発明の目的が達成される範囲内であれば生地が有する撥水性は高すぎても低すぎてもよい。例えば、デニム生地の撥水性が高すぎる場合には、苛性ソーダ溶液に浸透剤を含有させるなどして、苛性ソーダ溶液の浸透性を調整して、苛性ソーダ溶液による生地表面のみの処理を有効に行うことができる。また例えば、デニム生地の撥水性が低すぎる場合には、苛性ソーダ溶液の塗布量を厳密に制御して、当該溶液が生地の裏面にまで到達しないような量とすることにより、苛性ソーダ溶液による生地表面のみの処理を有効に行うことができる。 The denim fabric preferably has an appropriate water repellency. When the denim fabric has an appropriate water repellency, it is possible to effectively and easily treat only the fabric surface with a caustic soda solution. That is, even if a caustic soda solution is applied to the dough surface, the dough surface can be wetted without being repelled, and the solution can be retained on the dough surface without penetrating into the dough. As such an appropriate water repellency, it is preferable that the water contact angle is 30 to 120 °, particularly 45 to 90 ° when a water droplet is dropped on the surface of the denim fabric. If the water repellency is too high, the caustic soda solution is repelled, and it is difficult to effectively perform the treatment with the caustic soda solution. If the water repellency is too low, the caustic soda solution penetrates into the interior of the fabric and treats only the surface of the fabric. As a result, the solution easily reaches the back of the fabric, so that the effect of the present invention is hardly obtained. In the present invention, the denim fabric does not necessarily have an appropriate water repellency, and the fabric has a water repellency that is too high or too low as long as the object of the present invention is achieved. Good. For example, if the water repellency of the denim fabric is too high, the caustic soda solution may contain a penetrant to adjust the permeability of the caustic soda solution so that only the fabric surface is effectively treated with the caustic soda solution. it can. For example, if the water repellency of the denim fabric is too low, the amount of the caustic soda solution applied is strictly controlled so that the solution does not reach the back of the fabric, so that the surface of the fabric by the caustic soda solution Only the processing can be performed effectively.
デニム生地としてはデニム業界で従来より流通しているものが使用可能である。デニム生地の流通品は通常、軽い撥水性を有する。中でも、本発明において好ましい適度な撥水性を有するデニム生地としては、例えば、AIJ23629、AIJ29111、UDJ24907、RIJ26590（以上、倉敷紡績(株)社製）、SA901、ST7012（以上、須磨商事(株)社製）等が使用可能である。 As the denim fabric, those conventionally distributed in the denim industry can be used. Denim fabrics usually have light water repellency. Among these, preferred denim fabrics having appropriate water repellency in the present invention include, for example, AIJ23629, AIJ29111, UDJ24907, RIJ26590 (above, Kurashiki Boseki Co., Ltd.), SA901, ST7012 (above, Suma Corporation) Etc.) can be used.
本発明において、デニム生地を苛性ソーダ溶液で処理するに際しては、デニム生地の表面のみに苛性ソーダ溶液を塗布して作用させ、いわゆるマーセル化を行う。マーセル化はセルロースと苛性ソーダとからナトリウムセルロースが生成する反応であり、本発明においてセルロースは綿糸に由来する。本発明においては、このようにデニム生地表面のみに苛性ソーダ溶液を作用させ、裏面には作用させないため、表面に現れているタテ糸が苛性ソーダ溶液の作用を受け、マーセル化される。タテ糸が苛性ソーダ溶液の作用を受けてマーセル化されると、膨潤し、収縮しようとするが、その後、後述するような少なくともタテ糸方向の緊張を与えることによって個々のタテ糸の繊維密度が高まり、タテ糸が見かけ上、細くなる。一方、裏面に現れているヨコ糸は苛性ソーダ溶液の作用を受けず、元の生糸の状態を維持する。よって、表面においてタテ糸が占める領域の面積は小さくなり、それに伴ってヨコ糸が占める領域の面積は大きくなる。その結果、ヨコ糸（生糸）の白場、すなわち綾線間の溝線部分が見えやすくなり、綾線が十分に明瞭に現れるようになる。そのように繊維密度が高まって、細くなったタテ糸は水によって容易には元にもどらないので、本発明の方法によって加工されたデニム生地は洗濯後においても十分に明瞭な綾線を保持する。また生地の裏面は苛性ソーダ溶液の作用を受けないために、綿独特のドライでソフトな自然な風合い（手触り感）と軽量感とが維持され、そのような質感は洗濯した後にも保持され得る。さらに後述するような少なくともタテ糸方向の緊張によって表面に現れるタテ糸が有効に緊張されるため、生地表面のフラットな外観が達成される。また、生地の表面がマーセル化されるため形態安定効果が得られ、しわになりにくい。 In the present invention, when the denim fabric is treated with the caustic soda solution, the caustic soda solution is applied only to the surface of the denim fabric to cause so-called mercerization. Mercerization is a reaction in which sodium cellulose is produced from cellulose and caustic soda. In the present invention, cellulose is derived from cotton yarn. In the present invention, since the caustic soda solution is allowed to act only on the surface of the denim fabric and not on the back side, the warp yarn appearing on the surface is subjected to the action of the caustic soda solution to be mercerized. When warp yarn is mercerized under the action of a caustic soda solution, it swells and shrinks, but then the fiber density of individual warp yarns increases by applying tension in the warp direction as described below. , The warp yarn looks thin. On the other hand, the weft yarn appearing on the back surface is not affected by the caustic soda solution and maintains the original raw yarn state. Therefore, the area of the area occupied by the warp yarn on the surface is reduced, and accordingly, the area of the area occupied by the weft yarn is increased. As a result, the white field of the weft yarn (raw yarn), that is, the groove portion between the twill lines becomes easy to see, and the twill lines appear sufficiently clearly. The denim fabric processed by the method of the present invention retains a sufficiently clear twill line even after washing because the fiber density is so high that the warp yarn that has become thin is not easily restored by water. . Further, since the back side of the fabric is not affected by the caustic soda solution, the dry and soft natural texture (feel) and lightness unique to cotton are maintained, and such a texture can be maintained after washing. Further, since the warp yarn appearing on the surface is effectively tensioned by at least tension in the warp yarn direction as described later, a flat appearance of the fabric surface is achieved. Further, since the surface of the dough is made into a mercer, a form stabilizing effect is obtained and it is difficult to wrinkle.
デニム生地を苛性ソーダ溶液に浸漬するなどして、生地全体を苛性ソーダ溶液で作用させると、綾線の明瞭さは若干改善されるものの十分ではない。すなわち生地を構成する全ての糸、特にヨコ糸が苛性ソーダによる作用を受けて収縮するので、その後に緊張を与えても、苛性ソーダ溶液による処理前と比較して綾線間の溝線部分自体が細くなり、綾線が見え難くなると考えられる。また生地の裏面が苛性ソーダ溶液の作用を受けるので、綿独特のドライでソフトな自然な風合いが得られない。また生地組織内全体の繊維密度が高まり、生地に高密度感と重量感が出るために、軽量感が得られない。 When denim fabric is immersed in a caustic soda solution and the entire fabric is allowed to act on the caustic soda solution, the clarity of the twill lines is slightly improved but not sufficient. In other words, all the yarns that make up the fabric, particularly the weft yarns, shrink due to the action of caustic soda, and even if tension is applied thereafter, the groove portion between the twill lines is thinner than before treatment with the caustic soda solution. It will be difficult to see the Aya line. In addition, since the back side of the fabric is affected by the caustic soda solution, a dry and soft natural texture unique to cotton cannot be obtained. Further, the fiber density in the entire fabric structure is increased, and the fabric feels high density and weight, so that a lightweight feeling cannot be obtained.
苛性ソーダ溶液の苛性ソーダ濃度および温度は本発明の目的が達成される限り特に制限されるものではなく、デニム生地表面の綾線をより有効に明瞭にする観点から、濃度については15〜40重量％、好ましくは20〜25重量％が、温度については25℃以下、好ましくは10〜20℃、特に10〜15℃が望ましい。 The caustic soda concentration and temperature of the caustic soda solution are not particularly limited as long as the object of the present invention is achieved. From the viewpoint of more effectively clarifying the twill lines on the denim fabric surface, the concentration is 15 to 40% by weight, The temperature is preferably 20 to 25% by weight, and the temperature is 25 ° C. or less, preferably 10 to 20 ° C., particularly 10 to 15 ° C.
デニム生地の撥水性が高すぎる場合に苛性ソーダ溶液に含有されることが好ましい浸透剤としては、例えば、マーセリンHSO（明成化学社製）、ネオレートCM-17（日華化学社製）等が挙げられる。浸透剤の含有量は、本発明の目的が達成される限り特に制限されず、通常、溶液全体の0.05〜0.2重量％が好適である。 Examples of penetrants that are preferably contained in a caustic soda solution when the water repellency of the denim fabric is too high include, for example, Marserine HSO (manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd.), Neolate CM-17 (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.), and the like. . The content of the penetrant is not particularly limited as long as the object of the present invention is achieved, and usually 0.05 to 0.2% by weight of the whole solution is preferable.
苛性ソーダ溶液のデニム生地に対する塗布量もまた本発明の目的が達成される限り特に制限されないが、通常、生地1m２あたり50〜250g、好ましくは120〜180gである。 The amount of the caustic soda solution applied to the denim fabric is not particularly limited as long as the object of the present invention is achieved, but is usually 50 to 250 g, preferably 120 to 180 g, per 1 m 2 of the fabric.
生地表面に苛性ソーダ溶液を塗布する方法としては、生地の表面にのみ、苛性ソーダ溶液を一定量で均一に塗布可能な方法であれば特に制限されない。例えば、いわゆるグラビアロールコーターによる方法、ブラッシロールコーターによる方法、キスロールコーターによる方法、インバースナイフコーターによる方法、ボトムフィードリバースロールコーターによる方法、エアードクターコーターによる方法、ワイヤーバーコーターによる方法等が挙げられる。中でも、取扱いが容易で安定した品質が得られる観点から、グラビアロールコーターによる方法を採用することが好ましい。 The method for applying the caustic soda solution to the dough surface is not particularly limited as long as it is a method capable of uniformly applying the caustic soda solution in a certain amount only to the surface of the dough. Examples include a method using a so-called gravure roll coater, a method using a brush roll coater, a method using a kiss roll coater, a method using an inverse knife coater, a method using a bottom feed reverse roll coater, a method using an air doctor coater, and a method using a wire bar coater. . Among them, it is preferable to adopt a method using a gravure roll coater from the viewpoint of easy handling and stable quality.
苛性ソーダ溶液をデニム生地の表面のみに塗布した後は、デニム生地を該生地の少なくともタテ糸方向に緊張させながら大気中に滞留（保持）させる。苛性ソーダ溶液処理によって膨潤・収縮しているタテ糸を緊張させ保持することによって、個々のタテ糸の繊維密度を有効に高めてタテ糸を見かけ上、細くする。本発明においてはその後、緊張を解いた後もタテ糸は細いままの状態を確保できる。これはタテ糸がマーセル化によって改質されていることに基づくものと考えられる。 After the caustic soda solution is applied only to the surface of the denim fabric, the denim fabric is retained (held) in the atmosphere while being tensioned at least in the warp yarn direction of the fabric. By tensioning and holding the warp yarn swollen and contracted by the caustic soda solution treatment, the fiber density of each warp yarn is effectively increased to make the warp yarn apparently thin. In the present invention, the warp yarn can be kept thin even after the tension is released. This is considered to be based on the fact that the warp yarn is modified by mercerization.
緊張方向はデニム生地の少なくともタテ糸方向（タテ方向）であり、ヨコ糸方向（ヨコ方向）にも併せて緊張させてもよい。本発明においては表面の綾線をより明瞭にする観点から、タテ方向およびヨコ方向の両方向に緊張させることが好ましい。
緊張の程度は、本発明の目的が達成される限り特に制限されないが、緊張の度合いが大きければ大きいほど綾線が明瞭になる。
The tension direction is at least the warp yarn direction (warp direction) of the denim fabric, and may be strained in the weft yarn direction (width direction). In the present invention, from the viewpoint of making the twill lines on the surface more clear, it is preferable to tension both the vertical direction and the horizontal direction.
The degree of tension is not particularly limited as long as the object of the present invention is achieved, but the greater the degree of tension, the clearer the twill line.
大気中の滞留時間は本発明の目的が達成される限り特に制限されず、通常は10〜60秒間、特に30〜60秒が好ましい。 The residence time in the atmosphere is not particularly limited as long as the object of the present invention is achieved, and usually 10 to 60 seconds, particularly 30 to 60 seconds are preferable.
本発明の方法においては、前記苛性ソーダ溶液処理を均一に行う観点から、少なくともタテ糸方向の緊張は苛性ソーダ溶液処理時からデニム生地に付与しておくことが好ましい。 In the method of the present invention, from the viewpoint of uniformly performing the caustic soda solution treatment, it is preferable to apply at least tension in the warp yarn direction to the denim fabric from the time of the caustic soda solution treatment.
大気中に滞留・保持した後は、通常、続いて水洗処理、中和処理を行う。水洗処理の後、中和処理の前に、湯洗処理を行っても良い。 After stagnation and retention in the atmosphere, usually a water washing treatment and a neutralization treatment are subsequently performed. After the water washing treatment, a hot water washing treatment may be performed before the neutralization treatment.
水洗処理は、生地を水中に浸漬して洗浄する処理であり、これによって生地に付着する苛性ソーダ成分を除去する。水温は特に制限されず、通常は常温である。
湯洗処理は、水温を40〜60℃に設定すること以外、上記水洗処理と同様の処理であり、これによって生地に残存する苛性ソーダ成分を除去する。
中和処理は、生地を酸性水溶液中に浸漬する処理であり、これによって生地に残存する苛性ソーダ成分を完全に除去する。酸性水溶液は水に酸性物質を溶解してなるものである。酸性物質としては、例えば、ギ酸、酢酸、マレイン酸などが使用可能である。
The water washing treatment is a treatment of immersing the dough in water and washing it, thereby removing caustic soda components adhering to the dough. The water temperature is not particularly limited, and is usually room temperature.
The hot water washing process is the same as the water washing process except that the water temperature is set to 40 to 60 ° C., thereby removing caustic soda components remaining in the dough.
The neutralization treatment is a treatment of immersing the dough in an acidic aqueous solution, whereby the caustic soda component remaining in the dough is completely removed. An acidic aqueous solution is obtained by dissolving an acidic substance in water. As an acidic substance, formic acid, acetic acid, maleic acid, etc. can be used, for example.
本発明の方法によって加工されたデニム生地はこのような水を用いた処理を行ってもほとんど縮むことがなく、表面の明瞭な綾線を維持する。本発明の方法によって加工されていない、織りあがった直後のデニム生地を、水を用いた処理に供すると、タテ方向およびヨコ方向の収縮によって表面の綾線は不明瞭になる。 The denim fabric processed by the method of the present invention hardly shrinks even when such a treatment using water is performed, and maintains a clear twill line on the surface. When a denim fabric immediately after weaving that has not been processed by the method of the present invention is subjected to treatment with water, the twill lines on the surface become unclear due to shrinkage in the vertical and horizontal directions.
水洗処理、湯洗処理および中和処理を組み合わせて行うに際しては、例えば、シルケット加工機（(株)山東鉄工所製）が適しているが、通常のオープン式連続水洗機（(株)小松原鉄工所製）でもよい。 For example, a mercerizing machine (manufactured by Shandong Iron Works Co., Ltd.) is suitable for performing a combination of water washing treatment, hot water washing treatment and neutralization treatment, but an ordinary open-type continuous water washing machine (Komatsubara Corporation) (Manufactured).
以上のような本発明の加工処理の前または後において公知の加工処理をデニム生地に施してもよい。公知の加工処理としては、例えば、毛焼き処理、湯通し処理、ねじれ防止処理、防縮処理、および防水処理等が挙げられる。中でも、毛焼き処理、湯通し処理は、本発明の一連の加工処理の前、すなわち苛性ソーダ溶液処理の前に行っておくことが好ましい。ねじれ防止処理、防縮処理は、デニム生地を緊張させながら滞留させた後、好ましくは前記中和処理を行い、乾燥させた後で、行うことが好ましい。以下、これらの処理について簡単に説明する。デニム生地の撥水性が低すぎる場合は、適度な撥水性を生地に付与するように、苛性ソーダ溶液処理の前に防水処理を行うことが好ましい。 The denim fabric may be subjected to known processing before or after the processing of the present invention as described above. Examples of the known processing include a roasting process, a blanching process, a twisting preventing process, a shrinking process, and a waterproofing process. Among them, it is preferable that the roasting treatment and the blanching treatment are performed before the series of processing treatments of the present invention, that is, before the caustic soda solution treatment. It is preferable to perform the twisting prevention treatment and the shrinkage prevention treatment after the denim fabric is retained while being tensioned, preferably after the neutralization treatment and drying. Hereinafter, these processes will be briefly described. If the water repellency of the denim fabric is too low, it is preferable to perform a waterproof treatment before the caustic soda solution treatment so as to impart an appropriate water repellency to the fabric.
毛焼き処理は生地表面の毛羽を焼いて除去し平滑にし、生地組織を鮮明にして見栄えを整えるための処理であり、詳しくは、熱板式、電熱式またはガス炎式の毛焼き機を用いて毛焼きする。本発明の一連の加工処理の前に毛焼き処理を行っておくことにより、本発明の処理を生地表面に対してムラなく、より均一に行うことができ、生地表面の綾線をより明瞭にすることができる。 The roasting process is a process to burn and remove the fluff on the surface of the fabric to make it smooth, and to make the fabric structure clear and aesthetically pleasing. For details, use a hot plate type, electric heating type or gas flame type roasting machine. Hair burn. By performing the hair baking treatment before the series of processing treatments of the present invention, the treatment of the present invention can be performed more uniformly and uniformly on the fabric surface, and the twill lines on the fabric surface become clearer. can do.
湯通し処理は生地を柔軟にするための処理であり、詳しくは各種柔軟剤の温水溶液を生地に吸収させ乾燥させる。本発明の一連の加工処理の前に湯通し処理を行っておくことにより、本発明の処理を生地表面に対してムラなく、より均一に行うことができる。 The blanching treatment is a treatment for softening the dough, and more specifically, a hot aqueous solution of various softening agents is absorbed into the dough and dried. By performing the blanching treatment before the series of processing treatments of the present invention, the treatment of the present invention can be performed more uniformly and uniformly on the surface of the fabric.
ねじれ防止処理は、生地の出荷に先だって生地をねじっておくことにより出荷後の洗浄でそれ以上ねじれないようにする処理である。例えば、公知のスキュー加工装置または斜行修正装置を用いればよい。
防縮処理は、生地の出荷に先だって生地を予めある程度、縮めておくことにより出荷後の洗浄による縮みを小さくする処理である。例えば、公知の防縮加工機を用いればよい。本発明の方法によって加工されたデニム生地はこのような防縮処理を行っても表面の明瞭な綾線を維持する。
The twist preventing process is a process for twisting the dough before the dough is shipped so that the dough is not twisted further by washing after shipment. For example, a known skew processing device or skew correction device may be used.
The shrink-proofing process is a process for reducing shrinkage due to washing after shipment by shrinking the fabric to some extent in advance prior to shipment of the fabric. For example, a known shrinkage processing machine may be used. The denim fabric processed by the method of the present invention maintains a clear twill line on the surface even after such shrinkage treatment.
防水処理は、生地を構成する糸が水分を含浸するのを防止するための処理である。防水処理は、生地を防水剤溶液に浸漬し、絞った後、乾燥すればよい。防水剤は従来から生地の防水処理に使用されている公知の防水剤が使用可能であり、中でもパラフィン系のものを使用することが好ましい。溶液中の防水剤濃度は生地に防水性を付与できれば特に制限されず、通常、30〜60g/ｌが適当である。 The waterproofing process is a process for preventing the yarn constituting the fabric from being impregnated with moisture. The waterproofing process may be performed by immersing the fabric in a waterproofing agent solution, squeezing and then drying. As the waterproofing agent, known waterproofing agents conventionally used for waterproofing fabrics can be used, and paraffin-based ones are particularly preferable. The concentration of the waterproofing agent in the solution is not particularly limited as long as waterproofness can be imparted to the fabric, and usually 30 to 60 g / l is appropriate.
本発明においては適宜、乾燥を行ってもよい。乾燥はいかなる方法によって行われてよく、通常、いわゆるシリンダー乾燥が行われる。 In this invention, you may dry suitably. Drying may be performed by any method, and so-called cylinder drying is usually performed.
織りあがったデニム生地（AIJ23629;倉敷紡績(株)社製、生地重量440g/m2 3/1綾組織）を毛焼きした後、湯通しして乾燥させた。グラビアロールコーターを使用して上記のデニム生地の表面（接触角70°）のみに、液温を15℃に調整された23％苛性ソーダ溶液を、生地面積1m2あたり120g塗布した。その後、クリップ式テンターおよび連続ロール機でタテ、ヨコ両方に緊張を与え乍ら大気中を50秒間通過させた。続いて水洗および酸中和を行ないシリンダー乾燥した。乾燥された生地に対して次に通常のねじれ防止加工および防縮加工を行った。 A woven denim fabric (AIJ23629; manufactured by Kurashiki Boseki Co., Ltd., fabric weight 440 g / m 2 3/1 twill structure) was baked and then boiled and dried. Using a gravure roll coater, only 23 g of a 23% caustic soda solution whose liquid temperature was adjusted to 15 ° C. was applied to the surface of the above denim fabric (contact angle 70 °) per 1 m 2 of the dough area. After that, the clip-type tenter and continuous roll machine were passed through the atmosphere for 50 seconds while applying tension to both the vertical and horizontal sides. Subsequently, washing with water and acid neutralization were performed, followed by cylinder drying. The dried dough was then subjected to conventional twist prevention and shrinkage protection.
織りあがったヨコストレッチデニム生地（UDJ24907;倉敷紡績(株)社製、生地重量320g/m2 2/1綾組織）を毛焼き、湯通しして巾を狭めた後乾燥させた。その後熱処理して巾をセットした生地の表面（接触角70°）のみに、グラビアロールコーターを使用して、液温を15℃に調整された23％苛性ソーダ溶液を、生地面積1m2あたり110g塗布した。その後、ローラー式連続機でタテ方向に緊張を与え乍ら大気中を40秒間通過させた。続いて水洗および酸中和を行ないシリンダー乾燥した。乾燥された生地に対して次に通常のねじれ防止加工および防縮加工を行った。 A woven horizontal stretch denim fabric (UDJ24907; Kurashiki Boseki Co., Ltd., fabric weight 320 g / m 2 2/1 twill structure) was baked, boiled to reduce the width and dried. Then apply 110g per 1m 2 of dough area to the surface of the dough with heat treatment and set the width (contact angle 70 °) using a gravure roll coater and 23% caustic soda solution adjusted to 15 ° C. did. Then, it was passed through the atmosphere for 40 seconds while applying tension in the vertical direction with a roller type continuous machine. Subsequently, washing with water and acid neutralization were performed, followed by cylinder drying. The dried dough was then subjected to conventional twist prevention and shrinkage protection.
デニム生地の表面のみに苛性ソーダ溶液を塗布する代わりに、デニム生地を苛性ソーダ溶液に浸漬してデニム生地全体を処理したこと以外、実施例1と同様の方法でデニム生地の加工処理を行った。生地面積1m2あたりの苛性ソーダ溶液含有量は350gであった。 Instead of applying the caustic soda solution only to the surface of the denim fabric, the denim fabric was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the entire denim fabric was treated by immersing the denim fabric in the caustic soda solution. The caustic soda solution content per 1 m 2 of the dough area was 350 g.
上記実施例および比較例で得られたデニムを目視により観察したところ、実施例1および2で得られたデニムは、比較例1で得られたデニムと比べ明瞭な綾線が現れていた。これらのデニムを家庭用洗濯機により1回水洗したところ、実施例1および2で得られたデニムは比較例1で得られたデニムより明瞭な綾線が残っていた。
また実施例1および2で得られたデニムは比較例1で得られたデニムと比べて軽量感のあるドライでソフトな風合いが得られていた。
When the denims obtained in the above Examples and Comparative Examples were visually observed, the denims obtained in Examples 1 and 2 showed clear twill lines as compared with the denim obtained in Comparative Example 1. When these denims were washed once with a household washing machine, the denims obtained in Examples 1 and 2 remained clearer than the denim obtained in Comparative Example 1.
Further, the denim obtained in Examples 1 and 2 had a dry and soft texture with a lighter feeling than the denim obtained in Comparative Example 1.
実施例1および比較例1で得られたデニム、湯通し普通加工デニムならびに未加工デニムの表面に現れたヨコ糸（生糸）の白場の比率を比較するために島津製作所製測色機（UV-3100）によって生地表面の光の反射率を測定した（波長380〜780nm）。湯通し普通加工デニムは、毛焼き、湯通しおよび乾燥処理したデニム生地を、苛性ソーダ溶液処理等に供することなく、防縮加工処理したこと以外、実施例1と同様の方法によって加工されたデニムである。未加工デニムは実施例1で使用したのと同様の織り上がり直後のデニムである。 In order to compare the ratio of white spots on the surface of the denim obtained in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, the plain processed denim and the unprocessed denim, the colorimeter (UV- 3100), the light reflectance of the fabric surface was measured (wavelength 380 to 780 nm). The blanched ordinary processed denim is a denim that has been processed by the same method as in Example 1 except that the denim fabric that has been baked, blanched and dried is subjected to a shrink-proof treatment without being subjected to a caustic soda solution treatment or the like. The raw denim is a denim immediately after weaving similar to that used in Example 1.
未加工デニム 7.9％
湯通し普通加工デニム（洗濯前） 7.5％
比較例1で得られたデニム（洗濯前） 7.8％
実施例1で得られたデニム（洗濯前） 9.6％
湯通し普通加工デニム（1回洗濯後） 7.0％
比較例1で得られたデニム（1回洗濯後） 7.5％
実施例1で得られたデニム（1回洗濯後） 8.6％
Raw denim 7.9%
Denim ordinary processing denim (before washing) 7.5%
Denim obtained in Comparative Example 1 (before washing) 7.8%
Denim obtained in Example 1 (before washing) 9.6%
Denim ordinary processing denim (after washing once) 7.0%
Denim obtained in Comparative Example 1 (after washing once) 7.5%
Denim obtained in Example 1 (after one wash) 8.6%
この結果からも明らかなように、比較例1で得られたデニムおよび湯通し普通加工デニムと比べて本発明の方法で加工されたデニムは洗濯前でも洗濯後でも光の反射率が大きくて表面に現れているヨコ糸の白場が多くなっていることがわかる。すなわち、本発明の方法で加工されたデニムは比較例1で得られたデニムおよび湯通し普通加工デニムと比べて表面の綾線が明瞭である。
As is clear from this result, the denim processed by the method of the present invention has a high light reflectance before and after washing, compared with the denim obtained in Comparative Example 1 and the blanched ordinary processed denim. It can be seen that there are many white fields of weft yarn appearing. That is, the surface of the denim processed by the method of the present invention is clearer than the denim obtained in Comparative Example 1 and the blanched ordinary processed denim.
Claims (3)
A denim fabric processed by the method according to claim 1 or 2.
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| JP2016128619A (en) * | 2015-01-05 | 2016-07-14 | タト フン テキスタイル カンパニー リミテッド | Production process of environment-friendly denim fabric and production line thereof |
| EP3443155B1 (en) | 2016-04-11 | 2021-07-07 | Calik Denim Tekstil San. Ve Tic. A.S. | Woven fabric and method of production thereof |
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| JP2016128619A (en) * | 2015-01-05 | 2016-07-14 | タト フン テキスタイル カンパニー リミテッド | Production process of environment-friendly denim fabric and production line thereof |
| EP3443155B1 (en) | 2016-04-11 | 2021-07-07 | Calik Denim Tekstil San. Ve Tic. A.S. | Woven fabric and method of production thereof |
| EP3231907B1 (en) | 2016-04-11 | 2022-03-09 | Calik Denim Tekstil San. Ve Tic. A.S. | Woven fabric and method of production thereof |
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