JP2006200052A - Shrink-resisting animal hair spun yarn and moire animal hair fiber fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a spun yarn for producing a moire animal hair fiber fabric having excellent shrink resistance and a moire animal hair fiber fabric using the spun yarn and to provide a method for efficiently producing the moire animal hair fiber fabric. <P>SOLUTION: The shrink-resisting animal hair spun yarn comprises an anionized animal hair fiber and a cationized animal hair fiber. The moire animal hair fiber fabric is obtained by using the shrink-resisting animal hair spun yarn. The moire animal hair fiber fabric is applied in wide uses not only in clothing products but also in interiors and night clothes products, etc. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a shrink-proof animal hair spun yarn, a toned animal hair fiber fabric, and a method for producing the same.

  Conventionally, in order to obtain animal hair fiber fabric having a tone, after dyeing loose hair or sliver into a desired color, a fabric is obtained by using a spun yarn obtained by mixing or twisting several kinds of these dyed products. The dyeing method is generally used.

  However, the pre-dyeing method undergoes spinning, intertwisting, and other processes after dyeing loose hair and sliver, so it is necessary to switch and clean the spinning machine base for each color during the manufacturing process. It is difficult to meet the demand for small lots and many kinds of small lots.

As a means for solving this, for example, a method of obtaining an animal hair fiber product having a color tone by a one-bath dyeing method using a cationic dye and a wool dye together is disclosed (for example, see Patent Document 1). ).
JP-A-6-184957

  Since the above-mentioned animal hair fiber product uses a one-bath dyeing method in its production method, it can cope with a small amount, a large variety, and a small lot. However, a problem remains in the shrinkage-preventing effect, which is a unique problem in animal hair fiber products.

  In view of the present situation, the present invention provides a spun yarn capable of producing a toned animal hair fiber fabric having an excellent shrinkage-proof effect, a toned animal hair fiber fabric using the spun yarn, and the toned animal hair fiber. It is an object to provide a method for efficiently producing a fiber fabric.

  The present invention is capable of solving the above-mentioned problems, and firstly, a spun-proof animal hair spun yarn comprising an anionized animal hair fiber and a cationized animal hair fiber. is there.

  A second aspect of the present invention is a toned animal hair fiber fabric using the above-described shrink-resistant animal hair spun yarn.

  And, as a preferred method for producing the toned animal hair fiber fabric, the present invention thirdly, the animal hair fiber is treated with an oxidizing agent using a hypochlorous acid-based chlorine oxidizing agent, and then a peroxosulfuric acid-based oxygen. An anionized animal hair fiber that is treated with an oxidizing agent using a oxidant and then treated with a reducing agent, and an animal hair fiber is treated with a hypochlorous acid-based chlorinated oxidant, and then the reducing agent. Weaving and knitting a shrink-proof animal hair spun yarn composed of a cationized animal hair fiber which has been treated and then coated with a cationic resin, and then dyeing it, and then the above-described animal hair fiber fabric characterized by being dyed The manufacturing method is the gist.

  The shrink-resistant animal hair spun yarn of the present invention is a spun yarn capable of producing a toned animal hair fiber fabric having an excellent shrink-proof effect. The toned animal hair fiber fabric of the present invention using this spun yarn has a tone of color and has a shrink-proof effect, and is used for a wide range of applications such as interior and bedding products as well as clothing products. can do.

  Furthermore, according to the method for producing a toned animal hair fiber fabric of the present invention, a fabric having fashionability and a shrink-proof effect can be produced efficiently.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

  The animal hair fiber used in the shrink-resistant animal hair spun yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, and for example, natural keratin collected from sheep, goat, rabbit, alpaca, llama or similar animals. Fibers can be used.

  The shrink resistant animal hair spun yarn of the present invention is a spun yarn comprising an anionized animal hair fiber and a cationized animal hair fiber based on the animal hair fiber. In the shrink-resistant animal hair spun yarn of the present invention, the anionized animal hair fiber can be dyed mainly using a cationic dye, and the cationized animal hair fiber is mainly used using a reactive dye, an acid dye, an acid mordant dye or the like. Can be dyed.

  The mass ratio of the anionized animal hair fiber to the cationized animal hair fiber in the shrink resistant animal hair spun yarn of the present invention is such that the animal hair fiber fabric exhibits a clear tone (anionized animal hair fiber). / (Cationized animal hair fiber) = 10/90 to 90/10 is preferable.

  The shrink resistant animal hair spun yarn of the present invention has excellent shrink resistant properties. In the present invention, the shrinkage resistance is evaluated by a felt shrinkage rate measured according to the Wester method described in the IWS TM31 method. Specifically, a flat knitted fabric with a cover factor of 0.41 was produced on a 20-gauge cylinder knitting machine with 500 needles, and after removing the effects of spinning oil and relaxation shrinkage, the felt shrinkage was measured. To do. If the spinning oil adheres to the non-shrinkable animal wool spun yarn, the coating made of the oil will suppress the shrinkage of the flat knitted fabric, and an accurate measurement value cannot be obtained. 2% o. m. f Refine at 80 ° C. for 20 minutes with the processing solution. Next, in order to remove the influence of relaxation shrinkage, the flat knitted fabric is relaxed and contracted by washing once with 7A washing defined by the ISO 6330 7A program. In general, “shrinkage” of animal hair fiber fabric is represented by the sum of this relaxation shrinkage and felt shrinkage. Relaxation shrinkage refers to a phenomenon in which the strain applied during spinning, weaving and dyeing processes shrinks when animal fiber fabric is swollen with water, and is always manifested even when shrink-proofing is applied. It is. Therefore, after knitting, scouring and one washing of 7A are performed to remove the effects of the spinning oil and relaxation shrinkage and use as a reference sample. Next, using this reference sample, JIS L1018.58.58.4. A test piece compliant with method a was prepared, and the apparent dimensional change rate according to JIS L1018.58.58.4 was calculated after 5 washes by 5A washing specified in the ISO 6330 5A program for this test piece. The absolute value of this value is defined as the felt shrinkage rate.

  In the shrink-proof animal hair spun yarn of the present invention, the felt shrinkage is preferably 8% or less. This is because when it exceeds 8%, when it is made into a textile product, it tends to be out of shape or wrinkle, and cannot be used comfortably and functionally.

  In addition, examples of the form of the toned animal hair fiber fabric of the present invention using the above-described shrink-resistant animal hair spun yarn include woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, and nonwoven fabrics. The toned animal hair fiber fabric of the present invention is obtained by utilizing the dyeing characteristics of the above-mentioned shrink-resistant animal hair spun yarn, and has a tone and a shrink-proofing effect.

  In the toned animal hair fiber fabric of the present invention, in order to further enhance the effects of the invention, it is preferable that the shrink-proof animal hair spun yarn of the present invention is used in 50% by mass or more of the constituent yarns.

  Next, a method for producing the shrink-resistant animal hair spun yarn and toned animal hair fiber fabric of the present invention will be described.

  First, a method for producing anionized animal hair fibers will be described.

  First, in order to oxidize cystine bonds, animal hair fibers are treated with an oxidizing agent. The oxidizing agent is not particularly limited. For example, chlorine-based oxidizing agents such as hypochlorous acid, hypochlorite, chlorite, dichloroisocyanuric acid, peracetic acid, performic acid, peroxidation. Oxygen-based oxidizing agents such as hydrogen, permanganate, peroxomonosulfuric acid, peroxomonosulfate, peroxodisulfuric acid, and peroxodisulfate can be used. Further, the combination of oxidizing agents is not particularly limited.

  The oxidizing agent treatment for oxidizing the cystine bond may be performed in one step, but may be performed in two steps. In order to efficiently oxidize cystine bonds, animal hair fibers are treated with an oxidizing agent using a hypochlorous acid-based chlorine-containing oxidizing agent containing hypochlorous acid, hypochlorite, etc., then peroxomonosulfuric acid, The oxidant treatment is preferably performed using a peroxosulfuric oxygen-based oxidizing agent containing any of peroxomonosulfate, peroxodisulfate, and peroxodisulfate. This is because oxidant treatment using hypochlorous acid-based chlorinated oxidant removes fatty acids that cover the epidermal layer of the scale on the surface of the animal hair fiber, making the surface of the animal hair fiber hydrophilic and excels in oxidizing power. This is because a peroxosulfuric oxygen-based oxidizing agent penetrates into the scale efficiently.

  Although the amount of the oxidizing agent used varies depending on the type, it may be an amount that can exhibit shrinkage resistance and that does not excessively damage the scale. For example, in the above preferred two-step method, the amount of chlorine-based oxidizing agent used in the first step is 0.5 to 2.5% o. m. It is preferable to use so that it may become f, 1.0-2.0% o. m. f is more preferable. The pH of the treatment liquid is preferably 1.0 to 3.0 from the viewpoint of improving the reactivity. On the other hand, the amount of oxygen-based oxidizing agent used in the second step is preferably 10 to 30 g / L, more preferably 15 to 25 g / L, in the treatment liquid. The pH of the treatment liquid is preferably 1.0 to 2.0 from the viewpoint of improving the reactivity.

  Subsequently, the animal hair fiber after this oxidizing agent treatment is subjected to a reducing agent treatment. Although it does not specifically limit as a reducing agent, For example, sodium bisulfite, sodium sulfite, etc. can be used.

  By this reducing agent treatment, the oxidized cystine bond is cleaved to generate a large number of anionic groups. Thereby, the hydrophilicity of the exoicle layer is improved, and the shrinkage is imparted to the animal hair fibers.

  The anionized animal hair fiber is produced by subjecting the animal hair fiber to an oxidizing agent treatment and a reducing agent treatment as described above, and can be used in the present invention as it is, but preferably, in order to further improve the shrinkage resistance, It is preferable to coat the surface of the anionized animal hair fiber with a resin. This is because it is considered that the scale can hold down the scale that is going to rise by the bimetal action. The resin used is preferably a nonionic resin such as an aminosilicon resin from the viewpoint of preserving the anionic group. As a usage-amount of resin, it is preferable that 40-60 g / L of resin is contained in a process liquid.

  Moreover, you may give a softening agent, a water repellent, a spinning oil agent etc. to the surface of an anionized animal hair fiber as needed. In addition, when drying an anionized animal hair fiber, in order to avoid the thermal yellowing of an anionized animal hair fiber, it is preferable to dry at 100 degrees C or less.

  Next, another method for producing a cationized animal hair fiber will be described.

  First, an oxidant treatment is applied to animal hair fibers. Although it does not specifically limit as a method of oxidizing agent treatment, For example, it can carry out similarly to the oxidizing agent treatment method at the time of manufacturing an anionized animal hair fiber mentioned above.

  Next, the animal hair fibers after the oxidizing agent treatment are subjected to a reducing agent treatment. Although it does not specifically limit as a method of a reducing agent process, For example, it can carry out similarly to the method of the reducing agent process at the time of manufacturing above-mentioned anionized animal hair fiber.

  Furthermore, the animal hair fiber after the treatment with the reducing agent is coated with a cationic resin having a cationic group in the molecule. When animal hair fibers are coated with a cationic resin, anionic groups generated in the scale are blocked and the fibers become cationic. The resin used is preferably a polyamide epichlorohydrin resin from the viewpoint of improving shrinkage resistance and preventing rough curing of the fabric. The polyamide epichlorohydrin resin has an azetidinium group which is a cationic group in the molecule. In addition, as a usage-amount of a cationic resin, it is preferable that resin is contained 30-50g / L in a process liquid.

  A cationized animal hair fiber is thus produced by applying an oxidizing agent treatment, a reducing agent treatment and a coating with a cationic resin to the animal hair fiber. In this cationized animal hair fiber, shrinkage resistance is imparted by an oxidizing agent treatment and a reducing agent treatment prior to coating with a cationic resin.

  Moreover, you may provide a softener, a water repellent, a spinning oil etc. to the surface of a cationized animal hair fiber as needed. In addition, when drying a cationized animal hair fiber, in order to avoid the heat yellowing of a cationized animal hair fiber, it is preferable to dry at 100 degrees C or less.

  The apparatus for producing the anionized animal hair fiber and the cationized animal hair fiber is not particularly limited. For example, a scrape type continuous processing apparatus or a split pad type continuous processing apparatus can be used. In particular, it is preferable to use a split pad type continuous processing apparatus capable of high-speed running from the viewpoint of improving productivity.

  In addition, as described above, in the method for producing anionized animal hair fibers and cationized animal hair fibers, both are common in that the oxidizing agent treatment and the reducing agent treatment are performed, and those treatments are similarly performed. be able to. Therefore, it is efficient and preferable to use a part of the animal fiber as it is for the production of the cationized animal hair fiber after the treatment with the reducing agent to produce the anionized animal hair fiber.

  Any of the above-mentioned various treatments applied to animal hair fibers can be carried out in the form of loose hair, sliver or spun yarn, if necessary. Among them, a sliver that can be continuously processed and that has an appropriate fiber spread is preferable. When various treatments are applied to the loose hair or sliver, the treated loose hair or sliver is mixed in a predetermined ratio, respectively, and the spun animal hair yarn of the present invention can be obtained through spinning by a conventional method. it can. When various treatments are performed on the spun yarn, the spun yarn of the present invention can be obtained by twisting the treated spun yarns.

  The toned animal hair fiber fabric of the present invention is obtained by dyeing the above-mentioned shrink-resistant animal hair spun yarn and then weaving or knitting, or by weaving and knitting the above-mentioned shrink-resistant animal hair spun yarn and then dyeing it. Obtainable. As a dyeing solution used for dyeing, a dyeing solution containing a cationic dye and a dye selected from reactive dyes, acid dyes and acid mordant dyes in addition to this is used.

  By using such a dyeing solution, anionized animal hair fibers can be dyed mainly using a cationic dye, and the cationized animal hair fibers are mainly selected from reactive dyes, acid dyes, and acid mordant dyes. It can be dyed with the dyes to be used. As a result, the color tone exhibits a tone in the tone-like animal hair fiber fabric of the present invention.

  As the cationic dye, a dye having an onium group as a color difference cation can be used. When an acid dye is used, any of a leveling type, a first type, and a milling type can be used, but a milling type is preferable from the viewpoint of fastness. In addition, although a metal-containing dye can be used for dyeing a general animal hair fiber fabric, since the metal-containing dye has poor compatibility with a cationic dye, the production of the toned animal hair fiber fabric of the present invention is performed. Is preferably not used.

  Next, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples. In addition, the shrinkage resistance of the animal wool spun yarn was evaluated according to the method described above using a microcomputer-type dewatering washing machine “FOM71MRLAB (trade name)” manufactured by Electrolux Japan Co., Ltd. as a washing machine.

(Example 1)
First, in order to produce an anionized animal hair fiber, an Australian wool fiber having an average diameter of 21 μm and an average fiber length of 44 mm was converted into a known woolen spinning method, that is, each of washing, curd, rewashing, combing and finishing gil. Through the process, 32 wool slivers having a mass of 25 g / m were obtained.

  The 32 wool slivers were simultaneously put into a milling machine Sprit pad type continuous processing apparatus comprising a split pad tank, five back washer tanks and a dryer. The processing speed was 2.5 m / min.

  In the split pad tank, 98% sulfuric acid 5 g / L, ethoxylated fatty alcohol (manufactured by Ciba Specialty Chemicals, penetrant “Alcopol 650 (trade name)”) 5 g / L and the wool sliver Effective chlorine content 1.5% o. m. By spraying a water-soluble treatment solution having a pH of 1.5 containing sodium hypochlorite of f by a shower method, the first oxidant treatment is performed, washed with water for 60 seconds, and then mangled so that the wet pickup becomes 40%. Squeezed with.

  Next, this wool sliver was transported to the first tank of the back washer, and potassium peroxomonosulfate (manufactured by DuPont, oxygen-based oxidizing agent “Oxone (trade name)”) 20 g / L, sulfuric acid 5 g / L and sulfuric acid as a catalyst. The second oxidant treatment was performed by immersing in a water-soluble treatment solution containing 5 g / L of copper at a pH of 1.2 and a water temperature of 20 ° C. for 25 seconds.

  Subsequently, this wool sliver was transported to the second tank of backwasher and treated with a reducing agent by immersing it in a water-soluble treatment solution having a pH of 9.0 containing 20 g / L of sodium sulfite and a water temperature of 20 ° C. for 25 seconds.

  Further, this wool sliver was transported to the third tank of the backwasher, washed with water at 30 ° C. for 25 seconds, and then transported to the fourth tank of the backwasher. Aminosilicon resin (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., “Polon”) MF-14E (trade name) ”) 50 g / L and a water temperature of 40 ° C. was immersed in an aqueous treatment solution for 25 seconds to coat the surface of the wool fiber with a resin.

  Then, this wool sliver is conveyed to the fifth tank of the back washer, and is water-soluble at a water temperature of 60 ° C. containing 20 g / L of a nonionic softener (Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku Co., Ltd., “Brian NS-175 (trade name)”). It was softened by immersing it in the treatment solution for 25 seconds, and then dried at 90 ° C. for 10 minutes in a dryer.

  As described above, an anionized wool sliver (added with a resin coating and a softening agent) was obtained.

  On the other hand, in order to produce cationized animal hair fibers, Australian wool fibers having an average diameter of 21 μm and an average fiber length of 44 mm were prepared from known woolen spinning methods, that is, each of washing, curd, rewashing, combing and finishing gil. Through the process, 32 wool slivers having a mass of 25 g / m were obtained.

  The 32 wool slivers were simultaneously put into a milling machine Sprit pad type continuous processing apparatus comprising a split pad tank, five back washer tanks and a dryer. The processing speed was 2.5 m / min.

  In the split pad tank, 98% sulfuric acid 5 g / L, ethoxylated fatty alcohol (manufactured by Ciba Specialty Chemicals, penetrant “Alcopol 650 (trade name)”) 5 g / L and the wool sliver Effective chlorine content 1.5% o. m. By spraying a water-soluble treatment solution having a pH of 1.5 containing sodium hypochlorite of f by a shower method, the first oxidant treatment is performed, washed with water for 60 seconds, and then mangled so that the wet pickup becomes 40%. Squeezed with.

  Next, this wool sliver is transported to the first tank of backwasher and washed with water at a water temperature of 30 ° C. for 25 minutes, and then this wool sliver is transported to the second tank of backwasher, pH 9 containing 20 g / L of sodium sulfite. It was treated with a reducing agent by immersing it in a water-soluble treatment solution having a water temperature of 0 ° C. for 25 seconds.

  Further, this wool sliver was transported to the third tank of the backwasher, washed with water at 30 ° C. for 25 seconds, and then transported to the fourth tank of the backwasher, and polyamide epichlorohydrin resin (Dark Hercules Co., Ltd., “Harco Set 57 (trade name) ) ") The surface of the wool fiber was coated with a resin by immersing in a water-soluble treatment solution containing 20 g / L and sodium hydrogen carbonate 5 g / L at a pH of 8.0 and a water temperature of 40 ° C for 25 seconds.

  Then, this wool sliver is conveyed to the fifth tank of the back washer, and is water-soluble at a water temperature of 60 ° C. containing 20 g / L of a nonionic softener (Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku Co., Ltd., “Brian NS-175 (trade name)”). It was softened by immersing it in the treatment solution for 25 seconds, and then dried at 90 ° C. for 10 minutes in a dryer.

  As described above, a cationized wool sliver (added with a softening agent) was obtained.

  The anionized and cationized wool sliver obtained in this way was mixed into the pre-spinning step while being mixed at a mass ratio of 1: 1, and then fine-spun, and the upper twist S300 T / M, the lower twist A spin-proof animal hair spun yarn of the present invention of Z250T / M 48 count double yarn (metric type count) was obtained.

  The felt shrinkage of the obtained shrink-proof animal hair spun yarn of the present invention was measured and found to be 0.7%.

  Next, using this shrink-proof animal hair spun yarn as a warp, a 3/1 twill textured machine with a warp density of 85 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 50 / 2.54 cm was produced. This raw machine is subjected to hair roasting, scouring, and drying, and then heated by a wine dyeing machine at a rate of 2 ° C./min from room temperature at a rate of 2 ° C./min. Minute staining was performed.

(Prescription 1)
Cationic dye (manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd., “Kayacryl Blue GSL-ED (trade name)” 1.0% omf
Acid dye (manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd., “Kayanol Yellow NFG (trade name)” 1.0% omf
Leveling agent (manufactured by Ciba Specialty Chemicals, “Albegal A (trade name)” 1.0% omf
Leveling agent (manufactured by Ciba Specialty Chemicals, “Albegal B (trade name)” 1.0% omf
Acetic acid 1.0% o. m. f
Ammonium sulfate 1.0% o. m. f
After dyeing, steaming was performed to obtain a toned animal hair fiber fabric of the present invention.

(Comparative Example 1)
Except for using an untreated wool sliver in place of the cationized wool sliver, the same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out to obtain animal spun yarn and animal fiber fabric. The felt shrinkage of the obtained animal wool spun yarn was measured and found to be 39.2%.

(Comparative Example 2)
Except for using an untreated wool sliver in place of the anionized wool sliver, the same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out to obtain animal wool spun yarn and animal fiber fabric. The felt shrinkage of the obtained animal wool spun yarn was measured and found to be 33.5%.

  As described above, the shrink-resistant animal hair spun yarn of the present invention was excellent in shrink-resistance. In addition, the toned animal hair fiber fabric of the present invention using the shrink-resistant animal hair spun yarn has a tone color and has a shrink-proof effect, and is not only a clothing product but also an interior, a bedding product, etc. It could be used for a wide range of purposes.

On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, the animal wool spun yarn was inferior in shrink-proof property. Moreover, although the obtained animal hair fiber fabric has the same color tone as that of the examples, it does not have a shrink-proof effect and cannot be used comfortably and functionally. Also in Comparative Example 2, the animal wool spun yarn was inferior in shrink-proof property. Moreover, the color tone of the obtained animal hair fiber fabric was plain. This is because only the acid dye was adsorbed because the anionized wool fibers were not contained in the animal wool spun yarn.

Claims (3)

  An anti-shrinkage animal hair spun yarn comprising an anionized animal hair fiber and a cationized animal hair fiber.   A toned animal hair fiber fabric comprising the spun animal wool spun yarn according to claim 1. Anionization is performed by treating animal hair fibers with an oxidizing agent using a hypochlorous acid-based chlorine oxidizing agent, followed by an oxidizing agent treatment with a peroxosulfuric acid-based oxygen oxidizing agent, followed by a reducing agent treatment. The animal hair fiber and the animal hair fiber are treated with a hypochlorous acid-based chlorine-based oxidizing agent, then treated with a reducing agent, and then coated with a cationic resin. 3. A method for producing a toned animal hair fiber fabric according to claim 2, wherein the spun animal wool spun yarn is woven and knitted and then dyed.