FR3143992A1 - Hair coloring process comprising the application of a composition T comprising an amino acid and the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound and a coloring agent - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a hair coloring process comprising: a) the application to the hair of at least one composition T comprising at least one AA agent chosen from amino acids and their derivatives; Then b) the application to the hair of at least one composition C comprising: - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound; And - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Description

A method of coloring hair comprising the application of a composition T comprising an amino acid and the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound and a coloring agent

The present invention relates to a method for coloring hair comprising the application to the hair of a composition T comprising a particular agent, then the application of a composition C comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound and a coloring agent.

In the field of coloring hair keratin fibers, it is already known to color hair keratin fibers using different techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or dye precursors for permanent colorings.

There are basically three types of hair coloring process:

(a) so-called permanent colouring, the function of which is to bring about a significant change in the natural colour and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fibre and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;

b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct colouring, which does not involve the oxidative condensation process and is resistant to 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing keratin fibres with dye compositions containing direct dyes;

(c) temporary coloring which results in a change in the natural color of the hair that lasts from one shampoo to the next and which serves to enhance or correct a shade already obtained. It can also be likened to a “make-up” process.

Another coloring method is to use pigments. Indeed, the use of pigment on the surface of keratin fibers generally allows to obtain visible colorings on dark hair since the pigment on the surface masks the natural color of the fiber. However, the colorings obtained by this coloring method have the disadvantage of having a low resistance to shampoos as well as external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing and/or friction.

There is therefore a need for a hair coloring process which has the advantage of obtaining a uniform colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating which is resistant to shampoos and various aggressions which the hair may undergo such as brushing and/or friction without damaging the hair.

Thus, the aim of the present invention is to develop a hair coloring process which has the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous and smooth colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating which is resistant to shampoos and various aggressions which the hair may undergo such as brushing and/or friction without damaging the hair.

The present invention therefore relates to a hair coloring process comprising:

a) the application to the hair of at least one composition T comprising at least one AA agent chosen from amino acids and their derivatives; then

b) the application to the hair of at least one composition C comprising:

- at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound; and

- at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures.

Thanks to the hair coloring process according to the invention, colored coatings are obtained on the hair, making it possible to obtain a visible coloring on all types of hair in a way that remains after shampooing while preserving the physical qualities of the hair. Such a coating can be resistant to external aggressions that the hair can undergo, such as blow-drying and perspiration. In particular, it makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous deposit.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ permanent coloration after shampooing ” means that the coloration obtained persists after shampooing, preferably after 5 shampoos.

The expression " at least one " means one or more.

Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from … to …”.

The invention is not limited to the examples illustrated. The characteristics of the different examples may in particular be combined within non-illustrated variants.

For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated,

- an “ alkyl ” radical designates a saturated linear or branched radical containing, for example, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms;

- an “ aminoalkyl ” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an NH ₂ group;

- a “ hydroxyalkyl ” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group;

- an “ alkylene ” radical denotes a divalent saturated _C2 - _C4 hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene;

- a " cycloalkyl " or " alicycloalkyl " radical denotes a monocyclic or polycyclic saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group, preferably monocyclic, comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 13 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, or norbornyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or a cyclohexyl. it being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobornyl group,

- a “ cycloalkylene ” radical denotes a divalent cycloalkyl group with “ cycloalkyl ” as defined above, preferably C ₃ -C ₁₂ ;

- an “ aryl ” radical is an unsaturated and aromatic hydrocarbon cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms, mono/bi/ or tri/cyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 cycle with 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical can be substituted by one or more (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents phenyl;

- an “ arylene ” radical is a divalent aryl radical with “ aryl ” as defined above preferably arylene represents phenylene;

- a “ heterocyclic ” radical denotes a mono or polycyclic hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic or aromatic, comprising one or more heteroatoms, preferably from 1 to 5 atoms chosen from O, S or N, comprising from 3 to 20 links, preferably between 5 and 10 links, such as imidazolyl, pyrrolyl and furanyl;

- a “ heterocycloalkylene ” radical is a divalent heterocyclic group with “ heterocyclic ” as defined above;

- an “ aryloxy ” radical denotes an aryl-oxy radical with “ aryl ” as defined above;

- an “ alkoxy ” radical denotes an alkyl-oxy radical with “ alkyl ” as defined above;

- an “ acyloxy ” radical denotes an ester radical RC(O)-O- with R an alkyl group as defined previously;

- a “ reactive ” group is a group capable of forming a covalent bond with another group, identical or different, by chemical reaction.

Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in this application, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their tautomers, their salts, alone or in mixture, are also meant.

By “hair keratin fibres” is meant hair. In other words, the expressions “hair keratin fibres” and “hair” are equivalent in the remainder of the description.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" means the hair of the head. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes.

Composition T

As indicated above, the method according to the invention comprises a) the application to the hair of at least one composition T comprising at least one AA agent chosen from amino acids and their derivatives.

“Amino acid derivative” means an amino acid salt or a compound obtained by chemical reaction from an amino acid or a peptide or polypeptide such as polylysine.

Preferably, the AA agent is chosen from natural amino acids, synthetic amino acids, in their L, D or racemic form, and their mixtures, and comprise at least one acid function chosen from carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. Said amino acids may be in acid form or in salified form.

Said amino acids may be α-amino acids, natural or synthetic, comprising a carbon atom C carrying an amino group, a carboxyl group, a hydrogen atom and a side group which may be a hydrogen atom (case of glycine), any other monovalent organic group or a cycle comprising said carbon atom C, the nitrogen atom of said amino group and several additional carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 4 additional carbon atoms.

The side groups may be, in particular, alkyl groups (case of alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine), substituted alkyl groups (case of threonine, serine, methionine, cysteine, asparagine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glutamine, arginine and lysine), arylalkyl groups (case of phenylalanine and tryptophan), substituted arylalkyl groups (case of tyrosine), heteroalkyl groups (case of histidine).

The side group may in particular be a 5-membered ring comprising said carbon atom C, the nitrogen atom of said amino group and 3 additional carbon atoms, such as for proline.

These α-amino acids are notably listed in Harper et al (1977) Review of Physiological Chemistry, 16th edition, Lange Medical Publications, pages 21-24.

By synthetic α-amino acid is meant an α-amino acid that is not incorporated into a protein under the control of mRNA such as for example a fluorinated α-amino acid such as fluoroalanine, trimethylsilylalanine or an α-amino acid such as:
Or
,

where n ₁ is an integer from 1 to 6 and n ₂ is an integer from 1 to 12.

Synthetic amino acids are also described in Williams (ed), Synthesis of Optically Active α-Amino Acids, Pergamon Press (1989); Evans et al , J. Amer. Chem. Soc. 112,4011-4030 (1990); Pu et al, J. Amer. Chem. Soc. 56, 1280-1283 (1991); on Williams et al , J. Amer. Chem. Soc., 113,9276-9286 (1991).

The AA agent can also be chosen from peptides, polypeptides, in particular polylysine.

For the purposes of the present invention, peptide means a polymer of 2 to 9 amino acids, identical or different, linked together by peptide bonds.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term polypeptide means a polymer of 10 to 100 amino acids, identical or different, linked together by peptide bonds.

Among the peptides and polypeptides, we can cite polylysine, which can be in the form of alpha-polylysine (peptide bond on the amine group in the alpha position) or epsilon-polylysine (peptide bond on the amine group in the epsilon position).

Advantageously, the AA agent is chosen from natural amino acids, synthetic amino acids, in their L, D, or racemic form, and comprising at least one acid function chosen from carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions, peptides, polypeptides, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the AA agent is selected from amino acids, peptides and polypeptides.

Advantageously, the AA agent is chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, polylysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and mixtures thereof, preferably from lysine, polylysine, glycine and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the AA agent is present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

Composition T may further comprise water, in particular in an amount of at least 70% by weight, better still at least 80% by weight, even better still at least 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, it may comprise water in a total amount ranging from 70 to 99% by weight, preferably from 80 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 85 to 99% by weight, better still from 90 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of composition T.

Preferably, composition T essentially comprises water and one or more AA agents.

The term “composition essentially comprising a compound” means a composition comprising at least 90% by weight, preferably at least 95% by weight of said compound relative to the total weight of the composition.

More preferably, composition T comprises only water and one or more AA agents.

Additives

The composition T used in the coloring process according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.

Among the additives that may be used, mention may be made of reducing agents, thickening agents, softeners, moisturizing agents, UV filters, peptizers, solubilizers, perfumes, vitamins, polymers other than the polymers previously described, in particular other than silicones, preservatives, oils, waxes and mixtures thereof.

Polycarbodiimide compound

Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound.

The composition may comprise at least two distinct (poly)carbodiimide compounds, present as a mixture in the composition.

The term “ (poly)carbodiimide compound ” means a compound comprising one or more carbodiimide groups, preferably at least two carbodiimide groups, more preferably at least three carbodiimide groups, in particular the number of carbodiimide groups does not exceed 200, preferably 150, more preferably 100.

The term " carbodiimide group " means a divalent linear triatomic moiety of general formula - (N=C=N) -.

The (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) according to the invention may optionally comprise in their structure one or more reactive groups different from the carbodiimide groups, chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide groups such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane.

The reactive group(s) other than the carbodiimide groups may be pendant or terminal. Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) comprise one or more terminal groups other than the carbodiimide groups, preferably one or more terminal groups selected from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide groups such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane.

According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I):
(I),

in which:

- X ₁ and X ₂ represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;

- R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent a group chosen from a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane, and a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and by one or more groups selected from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide groups such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane;

- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; and

- A is a monomer chosen from the compounds below:
.

According to another embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I'):
(I')

in which:

- X ₁ and X ₂ represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;

- Y ₁ and Y ₂ represent, independently, a divalent organic radical chosen from a saturated C ₁ to C ₃₆ aliphatic group or a C ₆ to C ₂₄ aromatic or alkylaromatic group, the aliphatic or aromatic group optionally being able to comprise one or more non-pendant heteroatoms, such as the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom, the sulfur atom, or combinations thereof;

- Z ₁ and Z ₂ represent, independently, a reactive terminal group or an inert terminal group;

- as an inert terminal group, Z ₁ and Z ₂ may represent, independently, a saturated, linear or branched or cyclic aliphatic group, C ₁ to C ₅₀ , or an aromatic group C ₆ to C ₁₈ , said aliphatic and aromatic groups optionally comprising from 1 to 10 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and combinations thereof, and the aliphatic or aromatic group may be partially or totally fluorinated; in this variant, Z ₁ and Z ₂ comprise a CG linking group linking Z ₁ to Y ₁ and Z ₂ to Y ₂ , the CG group being able to be a single covalent bond, a saturated CC bond, an unsaturated covalent CC bond, an amide group, an ester group, a carbonate group, a thioester group, an ether group, a urethane group, a thiourethane group or a urea group;

- as a reactive terminal group, Z ₁ and Z ₂ may be chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide groups such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane;

- Q represents an organopolymer or an organo-oligomer comprising repeating units of saturated aliphatic groups, linear or branched or cyclic, or of aromatic groups or of alkylaromatic groups, coupled by repeating carbonate, ester, ether, amide, urethane or urea bonds or their combinations;

- A represents a divalent aliphatic, aromatic, alkylaromatic or linear, saturated, branched or cyclic radical having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may optionally comprise one or more non-pendant heteroatoms, such as the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom, the sulfur atom, or their combinations, in the aliphatic chain or the aromatic chain;

- r denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1;

- m denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;

- m’ denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;

- n denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1, with m+ (m’*n ) ≥ 2.

Preferably, Z ₁ and Z ₂ independently represent a reactive terminal group, more preferably, Z ₁ and Z ₂ independently represent a group selected from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide groups such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane.

Such (poly)carbodiimide compounds are for example marketed by the company Stahl B.V, under the name Permutex XR, or under the name RelcaLink10., under the name Picassian XL and Nisshinbo compounds marketed under the name CARBODILITE with the series V-02, V-02-L2, SV-02, E-02, V-10, SW-12G, E-03A, E-04DG-T, E-05, V-04, V-02B, V-04PF, V-05.

Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of the following formula (II):
(II),

in which

- X ₁ and X ₂ represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;

- R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);

- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ≥ 2 and w denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3;

- L ₁ independently represents a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ heterocycloalkylene group, or a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene group, and mixtures thereof;

- E independently represents a group chosen from:

- -OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -,

in which R ₃ and R ₄ independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);

- R ₅ independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);

- R ₆ independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).

The term “ hydrocarbon radical ” means a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical having from 1 to 300 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 250 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 200 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon radical is a linear and saturated radical.

The hydrocarbon radical may comprise one or more cyclic groups.

The hydrocarbon radical may be interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), in particular chosen from O, S or N and/or substituted by one or more cation(s), anion(s), or zwitterion(s) or cationic group(s) such as ammonium, anionic group(s) such as carboxylate, or zwitterionic group(s), and/or comprising a metal ion which may be incorporated in the form of a salt.

The term " heteroatom(s )" means an oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atom, as well as halogen atoms such as Cl, F, Br and I. If the heteroatom is included in the chain of the hydrocarbon radical, the heteroatom is preferably chosen from oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atoms.

Preferably, X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom.

Preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ are independently selected from dialkylamino alcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, R ₁ and R ₂ are independently chosen from the following groups (i) to (iv):

(i) the compound of the following formula (III):

R ₇ -OC(O)-C(R ₈ )(H)- (III),

in which R ₇ represents a C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl group, and R ₈ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl group, preferably R ₇ is methyl and R ₈ is a hydrogen atom or methyl.

(ii) the compound of the following formula (IV):

R ₉ -[O-CH ₂ -C(H)(R ₁₀ )] _p - (IV),

in which R ₉ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, R ₁₀ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group and p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3; preferably, R ₉ is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R ₁₀ is a hydrogen atom or methyl and p is equal to 1.

(iii) the compound of the following formula (V):

(R ₁₁ ) ₂ N-CH ₂ -C(H)(R ₁₂ )- (V),

in which R ₁₁ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group and R ₁₂ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group; preferably R ₁₁ is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R ₁₂ is a hydrogen atom or methyl.

(iv) the compound of the following formula (VI):

R ₁₃ -[O-CH ₂ -C(H)(R ₁₄ )] _q - (VI),

in which R ₁₃ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl, R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; preferably R ₁₃ is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R ₁₄ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.

Preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent a compound of formula (VI) in which R ₁₃ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

According to an alternative embodiment, R ₁ and R ₂ are different and one of the radicals R ₁ or R ₂ represents a compound of formula (IV) as described above and the other radical R ₁ or R ₂ represents a compound of formula (VI) as described above.

Preferably, in formula (IV), R ₉ is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R ₁₀ is hydrogen or methyl and p is 1.

Preferably, in formula (VI), R ₁₃ is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R ₁₄ is hydrogen or methyl and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

According to another alternative embodiment, R ₁ and R ₂ are identical and represent a compound of formula (VI) in which R ₁₃ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

Preferably, n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.

Preferably, z denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.

Preferably, w is equal to 1.

Preferably, w is equal to 1, n+z denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10.

Preferably, L ₁ is selected from a C ₁ -C ₁₈ divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical such as methylene, ethylene, and propylene, a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, and cyclohexylene, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ heterocycloalkylene group such as imidazolene, pyrrolene and furanylene, or a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene group such as phenylene, and mixtures thereof.

For example, L ₁ may be selected from a radical derived from tolylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, xylylene diisocyanate, 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate, 1,12-dodecane diisocyanate, norbornane diisocyanate, 2,4-bis-(8-isocyanateoctyl)-1,3-dioctylcyclobutane, 4,4'-dicylclohexylmethane diisocyanate, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, 1,5-naphthalene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenyldimethylmethane diisocyanate and phenylene diisocyanate and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, L ₁ is chosen from a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical, or a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene group and mixtures thereof, such as the compounds of the following formula (VII):
.

Preferably, L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane corresponding to the following formula (VIII):
(VIII).

According to another embodiment, when L1 is a _C6 - _C14 arylene group, _L1 is not the m-tetramethylxylylene radical represented by the following formula (IX):
(IX).

As previously indicated, E independently represents a group chosen from:

- -OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -;

in which R ₃ and R ₄ independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);

- R ₅ independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); and

- R ₆ independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).

Preferably, R ₃ and R ₄ are independently chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical such as phenylene, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, R ₃ and R ₄ are independently chosen from a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).

Preferably, when R ₅ is not a covalent bond, R ₅ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical such as phenylene, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, R ₆ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical such as phenylene, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, E represents a group -OR ₃ -O- in which R ₃ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, E represents a group - -OR ₃ -O- in which R ₃ represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).

According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a copolymer derived from alpha-methylstyryl-isocyanates of the following formula (X):
(X),

in which R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and,

n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 100.

In this embodiment, the term “alkyl group” is as defined above.

In this embodiment, the term “cycloalkyl group” is as defined above.

In this embodiment, n can denote an integer ranging from 2 to 50, preferably from 3 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 10.

According to another particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of the following formula (XI):
(XI),

wherein R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.

“Alkyl group”, “cycloalkyl group” and “aryl group” are as defined above.

According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (II) in which:

- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;

- R ₁ and R ₂ , are independently selected from dialkylaminoalcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof, preferably (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, more preferably, the compound of formula (VI) as described above in which R ₁₃ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;

- n and z, when present, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ≥ 2 and w equal to 1;

- L ₁ , when present, is chosen from a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ heterocycloalkylene group, or a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene group, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical;

- A, when present, is chosen from a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ heterocycloalkylene group, or a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene group, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical;

- E, when present, independently represents a group chosen from:

- -OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -;

in which R ₃ and R ₄ are independently chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;

- when R ₅ is not a covalent bond, R ₅ , when present, is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and

- R ₆ , when present, is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:

- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;

- R ₁ and R ₂ are independently selected from dialkylaminoalcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof;

- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ≥ 2 and w is equal to 1;

- L ₁ is chosen from a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ heterocycloalkylene group, or a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene group, and mixtures thereof;

- E independently represents a group chosen from:

- -OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -;

in which R ₃ and R ₄ are independently chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;

- when R ₅ is not a covalent bond, R ₅ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and

- R ₆ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:

- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;

- R ₁ and R ₂ , are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed;

- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ≥ 2 and w is equal to 1;

- L ₁ is a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical;

- E independently represents a group chosen from:

- -OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -;

in which R ₃ and R ₄ are independently chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;

- when R ₅ is not a covalent bond, R ₅ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and

- R ₆ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:

- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;

- R ₁ and R ₂ , independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following:

R ₁₃ -[O-CH ₂ -C(H)(R ₁₄ )] _q - (VI),

in which R ₁₃ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;

- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w equal to 1;

- L ₁ is a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylenemethane; and

- E represents a group -OR ₃ -O- in which R ₃ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:

- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;

- R ₁ and R ₂ , independently represent the compound of the following formula (VI):

R ₁₃ -[O-CH ₂ -C(H)(R ₁₄ )] _q - (VI)

in which R ₁₃ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;

- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w equal to 1;

- L ₁ is a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene, 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and

- E represents a group - -OR ₃ -O- in which R ₃ represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).

According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of the following formula (XII):
(XII),

in which L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a group -OR ₃ -O- in which R ₃ represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

Advantageously, the total amount of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8%, better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Coloring agent

Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises one or more coloring agent(s) chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises one or more pigments.

The term “pigment” means all pigments that impart color to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.

The pigments which can be used are chosen in particular from organic and/or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those which are described in the Kirk-Othmer encyclopedia of chemical technology and in the Ullmann encyclopedia of industrial chemistry.

They can be natural, of natural origin, or not.

These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste. They can be coated or uncoated.

The pigments can for example be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.

The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.

The pigment may be an organic pigment. By "organic pigment" we mean any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter.

The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

As an example, we can also cite organic pigment pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name:

- COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710);

- COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680);

- ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105);

- COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085);

- CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490);

- VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319);

- COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160);

- VERT COSMENYL GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260);

- COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).

The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.

The organic pigment can also be a lake. By lake, we mean dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

Inorganic substrates on which dyes are adsorbed include, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

Among the colorants, we can cite carminic acid. We can also cite the colorants known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

Examples of lacquers include the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

The pigment can also be a special effect pigment. Special effect pigments are pigments that generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain liveliness and a certain clarity) that is non-uniform and changes depending on the observation conditions (light, temperature, observation angles, etc.). They are thus opposed to colored pigments that provide a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.

There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as pearls, interference pigments or glitters.

Examples of special effect pigments include pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium and in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Pearlescent pigments include Cellini pearlescent pigments marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO ₂ -lake), Prestige pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO ₂ ), Prestige Bronze pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe ₂ O ₃ ) and Colorona pearlescent pigments marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO ₂ -Fe ₂ O ₃ ).

Mention may also be made of gold-coloured mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); red-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red-reflecting mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl notably marketed by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and orange-pinkish-golden-green mother-of-pearl notably marketed by MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and mixtures thereof.

As an example of mother-of-pearl, we can also cite particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are sold in particular under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.

Finally, examples of nacres include polyethylene terephthalate flakes, including those marketed by Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1P 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). Multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum can also be considered.

Special effect pigments may also be chosen from reflective particles, i.e. in particular particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) constituting them and their physical and chemical natures, and surface condition, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when the latter is applied to the support to be made up, highlights visible to the naked eye, i.e. brighter points which contrast with their environment by appearing to shine.

The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or reflection.

These particles can have various shapes, including being platelet-shaped or globular, particularly spherical.

The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a multilayer structure or not and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.

When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.

When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be single-material, multi-material, organic and/or inorganic.

More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and their mixtures, this list not being limiting.

The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metallic material.

Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, we can also cite particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.

Platelet-shaped particles with a silver-coated glass substrate are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by TOYAL. Particles with a nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.

It is also possible to use particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.

Examples include aluminum, bronze or copper powders coated with _SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.

Other examples include interference pigments that are not fixed to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), interference holographic flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are substances that fluoresce in daylight or that produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.

The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic and interference effects.

The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 μm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 μm.

Pigments can be dispersed in the composition using a dispersing agent.

The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can attach physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also have at least one functional group compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid in particular and of C8 to C20 fatty acids and of polyols such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g/mole such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures are used.

As another dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.

The pigments used in the composition can be surface treated with an organic agent.

Thus, the previously surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those which are described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention. These organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminium salts of fatty acids, for example aluminium stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethylmethacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.

The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and/or have undergone several surface treatments.

The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such commercially.

Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.

The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the surfactant molecules or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.

The surface treatment can thus be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.

Preferably, an organic agent covalently bound to the pigments will be used.

The surface treatment agent may represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.

Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:

- a PEG-Silicone treatment like the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW;

- a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW;

- a Dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW;

- a Dimethicone / Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment such as the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW;

- a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as the MM surface treatment marketed by LCW;

- an Aluminum Dimyristate treatment such as the MI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi;

- a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment marketed by LCW;

- an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the HS surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi;

- a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the PF surface treatment marketed by Daito;

- an acrylate/Dimethicone and Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate Copolymer treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito;

- a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito;

- an Acrylate/Dimethicone Copolymer treatment such as the ASC surface treatment marketed by Daito;

- an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito;

- an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito;

- a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in particulate form of sub-micron size.

By "sub-micronic" or in English "sub-micronic" is meant pigments whose particle size has been micronized by micronization method and whose average particle size is less than one micrometer (µm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 µm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 µm.

According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant: pigment), according to a weight ratio, of between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.

The dispersing agent(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and amino-silicone dispersants. Suitable dispersing agents include:

- amino-silicones i.e. silicones comprising one or more amino groups such as those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee polymers,

- silicone acrylates such as Tego ® RC 902, Tego ® RC 922, Tego ® RC 1041, and Tego ® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik,

- carboxylic group polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego ® RC 1401, Tego ® RC 1403, Tego ® RC 1412, by Evonik.

According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of the amino-silicone type and are cationic.

Preferably, the pigment(s) is (are) chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.

In one variant of the invention, the pigment(s) are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds. In another variant of the invention, the pigment(s) are mineral pigments.

Preferably, the pigment(s) are chosen from iron oxides, in particular red, brown or black. As an example of iron oxide, mention may be made of iron oxide sold by the company Sun Chemical under the name SunPuro® Red Iron Oxide.

Direct dye

Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may comprise one or more direct dye(s).

By "direct dye" we mean natural and/or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes that will diffuse superficially on the fiber.

They can be ionic or non-ionic, preferably cationic or non-ionic.

Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.

The direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Mention may be made of the cationic hydrazono dyes of formulae (XIII) and (XIV), the cationic azo dyes (XV) and (XVI) below:
(XIII),
(XIV),
(XV),
(XVI),

formulas (XIII) to (XVI) in which:

- Het+ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably with an endocyclic cationic charge such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferably by at least one (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl group such as methyl;

- Ar+ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, particularly tri( _C1 - _C8 )alkyl-ammonium such as trimethylammonium;

- Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, optionally substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donating groups such as i) (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl optionally substituted, ii) (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkoxy optionally substituted, iii) (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ )(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylamino, v) N-(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl-N-aryl(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylamino optionally substituted or Ar represents a julolidine group;

- Ar'' represents an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl or pyrazolyl optionally substituted, preferably by one or more (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ )(alkyl)amino, (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkoxy or phenyl groups;

- Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl group optionally substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group;

or the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het+ and/or Rb with a substituent of Ar form together with the atoms which carry them a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly Ra and Rb, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group;

- Q- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.

In particular, mention may be made of the direct dyes with endocyclic azo and hydrazono cationic charges of formula (XIII) to (XVI) as defined above; more particularly, the direct cationic dyes with endocyclic cationic charges described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954; preferably the following direct dyes:
(XVII),
(XVIII),

Formulas (XVII) and (XVIII) in which:

- R ¹ represents a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group such as methyl;

- R ² and R ³ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group such as methyl; and

- R ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl optionally substituted, (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkoxy optionally substituted, (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ )(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group; particularly R ⁴ is a hydrogen atom,

- Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH,

- Q- is an anionic counterion as defined above particularly halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesyl.

In particular, the dyes of formula (XV) and (XVI) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives with Q’ an anionic counterion as defined above, particularly halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesyl.

The direct dyes may be chosen from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called “acid” direct dyes for their affinity with alkaline substances. By anionic direct dyes is meant any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO ₂ R or SO ₃ R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes may be chosen from acidic nitrated direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azine dyes, acidic triarylmethane dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acidic natural dyes.

As acid dyes useful in the invention, mention may be made of the dyes of formulae (XIX), (XIX’), (XX), (XX’), (XXI), (XXI’), (XXII), (XXII’), (XXIII), (XXIV), (XXV) and (XXVI) following:

(a) diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (XIX) or (XIX'):
(XIX),
(XIX'),

formulas (XIX) and (XIX’) in which:

- R ₇ , R ₈ , R ₉ , R ₁₀ , R' ₇ , R' ₈ , R' ₉ and R' ₁₀ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- alkoxy, alkylthio;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- nitro, nitroso;

- R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X’’- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X’ and X’’, identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

- (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

- (O)CO--, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

- R''-S(O) ₂ -, with R'' representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an aryl group, (di)(alkyl)amino, aryl(alkyl)amino; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group;

- R'''-S(O) ₂ -X'- with R''' representing an alkyl group, optionally substituted aryl, X' as defined previously;

- (di)(alkyl)amino;

- aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined above;

- optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferably a benzothiazolyl group;

- cycloalkyl, in particular cyclohexyl;

- Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl, (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ or phenylamino groups;

- or two contiguous groups R ₇ with R ₈ or R ₈ with R ₉ or R ₉ with R ₁₀ together form a fused group benzo A'; and R' ₇ with R' ₈ or R' ₈ with R' ₉ or R' ₉ with R' ₁₀ together form a fused group benzo B'; with A' and B' optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X''-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with M+, R°, X, X', X'' and Ar as defined previously;

- W represents a sigma σ bond, an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) –NR- with R as defined above, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or Ra and Rb together form with the carbon atom which carries them a spiro cycloalkyl; preferably W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl;

it being understood that formulas (XIX) and (XIX') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical (O)CO--, M+ on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferably sodium sulfonate.

As an example of dyes of formula (XIX) we can cite: Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2; Food yellow 3 or sunset yellow;

and as examples of dyes of formula (XIX’) we can cite: Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38;

(b) anionic pyrrazolone azo dyes of formula (XX) and (XX'):
(XX),
(XX'),

formulas (XX) and (XX’) in which:

- R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, an alkyl group or -(O) ₂ S(O-), M+ with M+ as defined previously;

- R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a -C(O)O-, M+ group with M+ as defined previously;

- R ₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom;

- R ₁₆ represents an oxo group in which case R' ₁₆ is absent, or else R ₁₅ with R ₁₆ together form a double bond;

- R ₁₇ and R ₁₈ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from:

- (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

- Ar-OS(O) ₂ - with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups;

- R ₁₉ and R ₂₀ together form either a double bond or a benzo D' group, optionally substituted;

- R' ₁₆ , R' ₁₉ and R' ₂₀ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxy group;

- R ₂₁ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or alkoxy group;

- Ra and Rb, identical or different, are as defined above, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group;

- Y represents either a hydroxy group or an oxo group;

- represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxy group;

it being understood that formulas (XX) and (XX’) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+ on one of rings D or E; preferably sodium sulfonate;

As examples of dyes of formula (XX) we can cite: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and as examples of dyes of formula (XX') we can cite: Acid Yellow 17;

c) the anthraquinone dyes of formula (XXI) and (XXI'):
(XXI),
(XXI'),

formulas (XXI) and (XXI’) in which:

- R ₂₂ , R ₂₃ , R ₂₄ , R ₂₅ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₇ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- alkoxy, alkylthio;

- optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, preferably substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above;

- aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above;

- (di)(alkyl)amino;

- (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino

- (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

- Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR ₂₈ R ₂₉ with R ₂₈ and R ₂₉ , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl;

- aryl optionally substituted by one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above; iii) R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X’’- with R°, X, X’ and X’’ as defined above, preferably R° represents an alkyl group;

- cycloalkyl, in particular cyclohexyl;

- Z represents a group chosen from hydroxy and NR' ₂₈ R' ₂₉ with R' ₂₈ and R' ₂₉ , identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R ₂₈ and R ₂₉ as defined above;

it being understood that formulas (XXI) and (XXI') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate;

Examples of dyes of formula (XXI) include: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT violet No. 2; and examples of dyes of formula (XXI') include: Acid Black 48;

(d) nitrated dyes of formula (XXII), (XXII'):
(XXII),
(XXII'),

formulas (XXII) and (XXII’) in which:

- R ₃₀ , R ₃₁ and R ₃₂ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- alkoxy optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, alkylthio optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- nitro, nitroso;

- polyhaloalkyl;

- R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X’’- with R°; X, X’ and X’’ as defined previously;

- (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

- (O)CO--, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

- (di)(alkyl)amino;

- (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;

- heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino; particularly R ₃₀ , R ₃₁ and R ₃₂ represent a hydrogen atom;

- Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

- W is as defined above; W particularly represents a –NH– group;

- ALK represents a linear or branched divalent alkylene group, C ₁ -C ₆ ; particularly ALK represents a –CH ₂ -CH ₂ - group;

- n is 1 or 2;

- p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive;

- q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive;

- u is 0 or 1;

- when n is 1, J represents a nitro, or nitroso group; particularly nitro;

- when n is 2, J represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom, or a divalent radical –S(O)m– with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferably J represents a radical –SO ₂ –;

- M’ represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

- present or absent represents a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more R ₃₀ groups as defined above,

it being understood that formulas (XXII) and (XXII') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate.

Examples of dyes of formula (XXII) include: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; examples of dyes of formula (XXII') include: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino 5-nitro benzene sulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethane sulfonic acid, 4-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene sulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;

e) triarylmethane dyes of formula (XXIII):
(XXIII),

formula (XXIII) in which:

- R ₃₃ , R ₃₄ , R ₃₅ and R ₃₆ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted by a (O)mS(O-)-, M+ group with M+ and m as defined above;

- R ₃₇ , R ₃₈ , R ₃₉ , R ₄₀ , R ₄₁ , R ₄₂ , R ₄₃ and R ₄₄ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- alkoxy, alkylthio;

- (di)(alkyl)amino;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- nitro, nitroso;

- R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X’’- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X’ and X’’, identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

- (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

- (O)CO--, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

- or two contiguous groups R ₄₁ with R ₄₂ or R ₄₂ with R ₄₃ or R ₄₃ with R ₄₄ together form a fused group benzo: I'; with I' optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X''-; with M+, R°, X, X', X'' as defined above;

particularly R ₃₇ to R ₄₀ represent a hydrogen atom, and R ₄₁ to R ₄₄ , identical or different, represent a hydroxy group or (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+; and when R ₄₃ with R ₄₄ together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted by a (O) ₂ S(O-)- group;

it being understood that at least one of the cycles G, H, I or I' comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O) ₂ S(O-)- or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-; preferably sulfonate.

Examples of dyes of formula (XXIII) include: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.

(f) dyes derived from xanthene of formula (XXIV):
(XXIV),

formula (XXIV) in which:

- R ₄₅ , R ₄₆ , R ₄₇ and R ₄₈ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom;

- R ₄₉ , R ₅₀ , R ₅₁ and R ₅₂ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- alkoxy, alkylthio;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- nitro, nitroso;

- (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

- (O)CO--, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

particularly R ₄₉ , R ₅₀ , R ₅₁ and R ₅₂ represent a hydrogen or halogen atom;

- G represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or an NRe group with Re as defined above; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;

- L represents an alcoholate O-, M+; a thioalcoholate S-, M+ or an NRf group, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium;

- L’ represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or an ammonium group: N+RfRg, with Rf and Rg, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, optionally substituted aryl; L’ particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups or (O)mS(O-)-, M+ with m and M+ as defined above;

- Q and Q’, identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q’ represent an oxygen atom;

- M+ is as defined previously.

Examples of dyes of formula (XXIV) include: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52; Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9;

g) dyes derived from indole of formula (XXV):
(XXV),

formula (XXV) in which:

- R ₅₃ , R ₅₄ , R ₅₅ , R ₅₆ , R ₅₇ , R ₅₈ , R ₅₉ and R ₆₀ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- alkoxy, alkylthio;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- nitro, nitroso;

- R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X’’- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X’ and X’’, identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

- (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

- (O)CO--, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

- G represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or an NRe group with Re as defined above; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;

- Ri and Rh, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

it being understood that formula (XXIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate.

Examples of dyes of formula (XXV) include: Acid Blue 74;

(h) quinoline-derived dyes of formula (XXVI):
(XXVI),

formula (XXVI) in which:

- R ₆₁ represents a hydrogen atom, halogen or an alkyl group;

- R ₆₂ , R ₆₃ , and R ₆₄ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

or R ₆₁ with R ₆₂ , or R ₆₁ with R ₆₄ , together form a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ groups with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

it being understood that formula (XXVI) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ preferably sodium sulfonate.

Examples of dyes of formula (XXVI) include: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.

Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular poultices or extracts based on henna may also be used.

Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes.

The coloring agent(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C, preferably the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.

The pigment(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

The direct dye(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Compound having at least one carboxylic function

Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one compound having at least one carboxylic function.

Preferably, the compound having at least one carboxylic function is chosen from silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylic group, polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and their mixtures.

Polyurethanes and acrylic polymers

According to a preferred embodiment, composition C comprises at least one compound having at least one carboxylic function chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and their mixtures.

Preferably, the compound(s) having at least one carboxylic function are in the form of aqueous dispersions of particles of polymer(s) chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, and their mixtures.

Preferably, composition C comprises at least one compound having at least one carboxylic function in the form of aqueous dispersions of polyurethane particles, acrylic polymers, and their mixtures.

The dispersion(s) may be simple dispersions in the aqueous medium of the cosmetic composition. As a particular case of dispersions, mention may be made of latexes.

The aqueous dispersion(s) of polymer particles may be chosen from aqueous dispersions of polyurethane particles.

More particularly, the polyurethane(s) present in the aqueous dispersions used in the present invention are derived from the reaction of

- a prepolymer of the following formula (A):

(HAS),

in which

- R ₁ represents a bivalent radical of a dihydroxylated compound;

- R ₂ represents a radical of an aliphatic or cycloaliphatic polyisocyanate;

- R ₃ represents a radical of a low molecular weight diol, optionally substituted by one or more ionic groups;

- n represents an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

- m is greater than 1;

- at least one chain extender according to the following formula (B):

H ₂ NR ₄ -NH ₂ (B),

in which R ₄ represents an alkylene or alkylene oxide radical which is not substituted by one or more ionic or potentially ionic groups; and

- at least one chain extender according to the following formula (C):

H ₂ NR ₅ -NH ₂ (C),

in which R ₅ represents an alkylene radical substituted by one or more ionic or potentially ionic groups.

Among the dihydroxylated compounds that can be used according to the present invention, mention may in particular be made of compounds having two hydroxyl groups and a number-average molecular weight of approximately 700 to approximately 16,000, and preferably of approximately 750 to approximately 5,000. As examples of dihydroxylated compounds having a high molecular weight, mention may be made of polyol polyesters, polyol polyethers, polyhydroxylated polycarbonates, polyhydroxylated polyacetates, polyhydroxylated polyacrylates, polyhydroxylated amide polyesters, polyhydroxylated polyalkadienes, polyhydroxylated polythioethers and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydroxylated compounds are chosen from polyol polyesters, polyol polyethers, polyhydroxylated polycarbonates and mixtures thereof.

The polyisocyanates which can be used according to the present invention are in particular chosen from organic diisocyanates having a molecular weight of approximately 112 to 1000, and preferably of approximately 140 to 400.

Preferably, the polyisocyanates are chosen from diisocyanates and more particularly from those represented by the general formula R ₂ (NCO) ₂ , in which R ₂ represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon group having from 4 to 18 carbon atoms, a divalent cycloaliphatic hydrocarbon group having from 5 to 15 carbon atoms, a divalent araliphatic hydrocarbon group having from 7 to 15 carbon atoms or a divalent aromatic hydrocarbon group having 6 to 15 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R ₂ represents an organic diisocyanate. Examples of organic diisocyanates include tetramethylene diisocyanate, 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dodecamethylene diisocyanate, 1,3-diisocyanatocyclohexane, 1,4-diisocyanatocyclohexane, 3-isocyanatomethyl-3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexane isocyanate (isophorone diisocyanate or IPDI), bis-(4-isocyanatocyclohexyl)-methane, 1,3-bis(isocyanatomethyl)-cyclohexane, 1,4-bis(isocyanatomethyl)-cyclohexane, bis-(4-isocyanato-3-methyl-cyclohexyl)-methane, isomers of toluene diisocyanate (TDI) such as 2,4-toluene diisocyanate, 2,6-toluene diisocyanate and mixtures thereof, hydrogenated toluene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate and mixtures with its isomers 2,4-diphenylmethane diisocyanate and optionally 2,2'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, naphthalene-1,5-diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the diisocyanates are aliphatic and cycloaliphatic diisocyanates, and are more preferably chosen from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, 3-isocyanatomethyl-3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexane isocyanate and mixtures thereof.

By " low molecular weight diol " is meant, according to the present invention, a diol having a molecular weight of about 62 to 700, and preferably 62 to 200. These diols may comprise aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic groups. Preferably, they comprise only aliphatic groups.

Preferably, R ₃ represents a low molecular weight diol, having more than 20 carbon atoms, more preferably chosen from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propane 1,2-diol, propane 1,3-diol, butane 1,4-diol, butylene 1,3-glycol, neopentyl glycol, butyl-ethyl-propane diol, cyclohexane diol, 1,4-cyclohexane dimethanol, hexane 1,6-diol, bisphenol A (2,2-bis(4-hydroxyphenyl)propane), hydrogenated bisphenol A (2,2-bis(4-hydroxycyclohexyl)propane), and mixtures thereof.

The low molecular weight diols may optionally comprise ionic or potentially ionic groups. Examples of low molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are notably described in US Patent 3,412,054. Such compounds are preferably selected from dimethylol butanoic acid, dimethylol propionic acid, polycaprolactone diols containing a carboxyl group and mixtures thereof.

If lower molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are used, they are preferably used in an amount such that less than 0.30 meq of COOH per gram of polyurethane in the polyurethane dispersion are present.

The prepolymer is extended using two families of chain extenders. The first family of chain extenders corresponds to the compounds of general formula (B).

The chain extenders of formula (B) are preferably chosen from alkylene diamines, such as hydrazine, ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, piperazine; alkylene oxide diamines, such as 3-{2-[2-(3-aminopropoxy)ethoxy]-ethoxy}propylamine (also called dipropylamine diethylene glycol or DPA-DEG available from Tomah Products, Milton, Wis.), 2-methyl-1,5-pentanediamine (Dytec A from DuPont), hexane diamine, isophorone diamine, 4,4-methylenedi-(cyclohexylamine), DPA series ether amines available from Tomah Products, Milton, Wis., such as dipropylamine propylene glycol, dipropylamine dipropylene glycol, dipropylamine tripropylene glycol, dipropylamine poly(propylene glycol), dipropylamine ethylene glycol, dipropylamine poly(ethylene glycol), dipropylamine 1,3-propane diol, dipropylamine 2-methyl-1,3-propane diol, dipropylamine 1,4-butane diol, dipropylamine 1,3-butane diol, dipropylamine 1,6-hexane diol and dipropylamine cyclohexane-1,4-dimethanol; and mixtures thereof.

The second family of chain extenders corresponds to compounds of general formula (C). Such compounds preferably have an ionic or potentially ionic group and two groups capable of reacting with isocyanate groups. Such compounds may optionally comprise two groups reactive with isocyanate groups and an ionic group or one capable of forming an ionic group.

The ionic or potentially ionic group may preferably be selected from ternary or quaternary ammonium groups or groups convertible into such groups, a carboxyl group, a carboxylate group, a sulfonic acid group and a sulfonate group. The at least partial conversion of the groups convertible into a salt of ternary or quaternary ammonium groups may take place before or during mixing with water.

The chain extenders of formula (C) are preferably chosen from diaminosulfonates, such as for example the sodium salt of N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (ASA), the sodium salt of N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminopropionic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The polyurethane usable according to the present invention may optionally further comprise compounds which are respectively located at the ends of the chains and terminate said chains (chain terminators). Such compounds are notably described in U.S. patents 7,445,770 and/or U.S. patents 7,452,770.

Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa.s at 23°C, more preferably less than 1500, and better still less than 1000. Even more preferably, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane has a glass transition temperature of less than 0°C.

Also preferably, the aqueous polyurethane dispersion has a polyurethane content (or active material, or dry matter) based on the weight of the dispersion of 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably of 25 to 55% by weight and more preferably of 30 to 50% by weight. This means that the polyurethane content (dry matter) of the aqueous dispersion is preferably of 20% to 60% by weight, more preferably of 25% to 55% by weight and more preferably of 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

Also preferably, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles has a glass transition temperature (Tg) equal to or less than -25°C, preferably less than -35°C, and more preferably less than -40°C.

The polyurethane particles may have an average diameter of up to about 1000 nm, for example from about 50 nm to about 800 nm, more preferably from about 100 nm to about 500 nm. These particle sizes can be measured with a laser particle size analyzer (e.g. Brookhaven BI90).

As a non-limiting example of aqueous polyurethane dispersions, mention may be made of those sold under the name Baycusan® by Bayer such as, for example, Baycusan® C1000 (INCI name: polyurethane-34), Baycusan® C1001 (INCI name: polyurethane-34), Baycusan® C1003 (INCI name: polyurethane-32), Baycusan® C1004 (INCI name: polyurethane-35) and Baycusan® C1008 (INCI name: polyurethane-48).

Other examples include aqueous dispersions of polyurethane of isophthalic acid / adipic acid copolymer / hexylene glycol / neopentyl glycol / dimethylol Acid / isophorone diisocyanate (INCI name: Polyurethane-1, such as Luviset® PUR, BASF), polyurethane of polycarbonate, polyurethane and aliphatic polyurethane of aliphatic polyester (such as NEOREZ® series, DSM, such as NEOREZ® R989, NEOREZ® and R-2202).

According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles may be chosen from aqueous dispersions of particles of compounds having the INCI name polyurethane-35 or compounds having the INCI name polyurethane-34.

Preferably, the compound(s) having at least one carboxylic function are in the form of aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer particles, more preferably in the form of aqueous dispersions of film-forming acrylic polymer particles.

For the purposes of the invention, the term " polymer " means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from compounds called monomers). This or these units are repeated at least twice and preferably at least 3 times.

By " film-forming polymer " is meant a polymer capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on the hair, and preferably a cohesive film.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term " acrylic polymer " means a polymer synthesized from at least one monomer chosen from (meth)acrylic acid and/or (meth)acrylic acid ester and/or (meth)acrylic acid amide.

The unit(s) resulting from the (meth)acrylic acid monomers of the polymer may optionally be in the form of salt(s), in particular of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or organic base.

The esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates) are advantageously chosen from alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkyl, preferably C ₁ to C ₂₀ , better still C ₁ to C ₁₀ , aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular C ₆ to C ₁₀ aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C ₂ to C ₆ hydroxyalkyl.

Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, we can cite methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl (meth)acrylate.

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, we can cite benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

Particularly preferred esters of (meth)acrylic acid are alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkyl, more preferably C ₁ to C ₂₀ , even better C ₁ to C ₁₀ , and even more particularly C ₁ to C ₄ .

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be fluorinated, or even perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

As amides of (meth)acrylic acid, mention may be made, for example, of (meth)acrylamides, as well as of N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular of C ₂ to C ₁₂ alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.

The acrylic polymer according to the invention may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, advantageously a copolymer, even better a copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and (meth)acrylic acid esters.

Preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) according to the invention comprise one or more units derived from the following monomers:

(a) (meth)acrylic acid; and

b) _C1 to _C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, more preferably _C1 to _C20 , even better _C1 to _C10 , and even more particularly _C1 to _C4 .

Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles does not comprise a surfactant.

The term " surfactant " means any agent capable of modifying the surface tension between two surfaces.

Among the acrylic polymers according to the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and methyl or ethyl (meth)acrylate, in particular copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate such as the compound sold under the trade name LUVIMER MAE by the company BASF, or the compound Polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer sold under the trade name FIXATE SUPERHOLD POLYMER by the company LUBRIZOL, or the compound Acrylate Copolymer sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000VP3 by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO, or the compound Acrylate Copolymer sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO.

The acrylic polymer may optionally comprise one or more additional monomers, other than the (meth)acrylic acid and/or (meth)acrylic acid ester and/or (meth)acrylic acid amide monomers.

As additional monomer, examples of styrene monomers may be mentioned, in particular styrene and alpha-methylstyrene, and preferably styrene.

In particular, the acrylic polymer may be a styrene/(meth)acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrene monomer and at least one _C1 to _C20 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, preferably _C1 to _C10 .

The _C1 - _C10 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer may be chosen from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.

As acrylic polymer, we can cite the styrene/(meth)acrylate(s) copolymers marketed under the name JONCRYL 77 by the company BASF, under the name YODOSOL GH41F by the company AKZO NOBEL and under the name SYNTRAN 5760 CG by the company INTERPOLYMER.

Preferably, composition C comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles.

More preferably, composition C comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles comprising one or more units derived from the following monomers:

(a) (meth)acrylic acid; and

b) _C1 to _C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, more preferably _C1 to _C20 , even better _C1 to _C10 , and even more particularly _C1 to _C4 .

Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles has an acrylic polymer content (or active material, or dry matter) based on the weight of the dispersion of 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably of 22 to 55% by weight and more preferably of 25 to 50% by weight.

Silicone acrylic copolymer

According to a particular embodiment, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from silicone acrylic copolymers.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) having at least one carboxylic function are chosen from silicone acrylic copolymers.

Preferably, said silicone acrylic copolymer(s) comprise:

- at least one acrylic or methacrylic or crotonic motif; and

- at least one polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) unit.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polydimethylsiloxanes" (also abbreviated as PDMS), in accordance with general acceptance, means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond Si-O-Si), comprising methyl radicals directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.

The PDMS chains which can be used to obtain the copolymer used according to the invention comprise at least one polymerizable radical group, preferably located on at least one of the ends of the chain, that is to say that the PDMS can have for example a polymerizable radical group on each of the two ends of the chain or have a polymerizable radical group on one end of the chain and a trimethylsilyl terminal group on the other end of the chain.

By polymerizable radical group is meant a radical capable of polymerizing with other polymerizable radical groups or monomers. Preferably, the polydimethylsiloxane unit comprises at least one polymerizable radical group.

Preferably, the polymerizable radical group comprises at least one vinyl group.

Preferably, the polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) unit comprises at least one polymerizable radical group comprising at least one vinyl group, preferably at least two polymerizable radical groups comprising at least one vinyl group, preferably located on at least one of the ends of the chain.

As indicated above, said silicone acrylic copolymer(s) preferably comprise at least one acrylic or methacrylic or crotonic unit, i.e. at least one unit comprising a carboxylic group.

The term “carboxylic group” means a functional group COOH or COO ^- , the counterion of the COO ^- group being able to be chosen from alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, quaternary ammoniums.

Preferably, said silicone acrylic copolymer(s) comprise:

- at least one acrylic or methacrylic or crotonic unit, and at least one acrylic ester or methacrylic ester or vinyl ester unit; and

- at least one polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) unit.

More preferably, the composition comprises one or more silicone acrylic copolymers comprising:
- at least one crotonic unit and at least one unit selected from an alkyl crotonate unit, the alkyl radical being a linear or branched, saturated radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; a vinyl acetate unit; a vinyl alkyl ester unit, the alkyl radical being a linear or branched, saturated radical containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof; and
- at least one polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) unit.

By crotonic unit is meant a unit derived from a crotonic acid monomer or one of its salts.

By alkyl crotonate unit is meant a unit derived from a crotonic acid ester monomer, having a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms.

By vinyl alkyl ester unit is meant a unit derived from a vinyl ester monomer having a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.

A vinyl acetate unit means a unit derived from a vinyl acetate monomer.

According to a preferred embodiment, said silicone acrylic copolymer(s) comprise:
- at least one crotonic unit, at least one vinyl acetate unit and at least one vinyl alkyl ester unit, the alkyl radical being a linear or branched, saturated radical containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, and
- at least one polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) unit, preferably comprising at least one polymerizable radical group comprising at least one vinyl group.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, said silicone acrylic copolymer(s) comprise:
- at least one crotonic unit, at least one vinyl acetate unit and at least one vinyl alkyl ester unit, the alkyl radical being a linear or branched, saturated radical containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, and

- at least one polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) unit comprising at least one polymerizable radical group comprising at least one vinyl group.

More preferably, the composition comprises one or more silicone acrylic copolymers comprising:
- at least one crotonic unit, at least one vinyl acetate unit and at least one vinyl alkyl ester unit, the alkyl radical being a linear or branched, saturated radical containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 18 carbon atoms; and
- at least one polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) unit comprising at least one polymerizable radical group comprising at least one vinyl group.

Even more preferably, the composition comprises one or more silicone acrylic copolymers comprising:

- at least one crotonic unit, at least one vinyl acetate unit and at least one vinyl alkyl ester unit, the alkyl radical being a linear or branched, saturated radical containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms; and

- at least one polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) unit comprising at least one polymerizable radical group comprising at least one vinyl group.

Among the silicone acrylic copolymers that can be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of the compound sold by the company Wacker Chemie AG under the trade name Belsil® P1101, with the INCI name Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/VA/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer.

The total amount of the compound(s) having at least one carboxylic function preferably ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

The total amount of the aqueous dispersion(s) of particles of polymer(s) chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, and their mixtures preferably ranges from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of the aqueous dispersion(s) of acrylic polymer particles preferably ranges from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Advantageously, the total amount of silicone acrylic copolymer(s) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Organic solvents

Composition C used in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents.

Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include C ₁ -C ₄ lower alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, 1,2-hexanediol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and aromatic alcohols, in particular aromatic monoalcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

The organic solvents may be present in a total amount of between 0.01 and 60% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 50% by weight and more preferably inclusively between 0.1 and 45% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Composition C used in the process according to the invention may be aqueous. The water content may range from 1 to 90% by weight, preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Additives

Composition C used in the process according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.

Among the additives that may be contained in composition C, mention may be made of reducing agents, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, peptizers, perfumes, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, polymers other than the polymers previously described, preservatives, silicones, oils, waxes other than silicones in wax form, and mixtures thereof.

Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may be in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion, gel, emulsion, in particular oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, or multiple (W/O/W or polyol/O/W or O/W/O), in the form of a cream, mousse, stick, dispersion of vesicles in particular of ionic or non-ionic lipids, two-phase or multiphase lotion.

A person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate galenic form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand the application envisaged for the composition.

Protocol

Composition T as defined above can be applied to dry or damp hair, as well as to all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.

Preferably, a washing, rinsing, spinning and/or drying step is carried out after the application of composition T as defined above.

More preferably, a drying step is implemented after the application of composition T as defined previously.

The application of composition T can be carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).

After applying composition T, one can wait between 1 minute and 12 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 10 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 7 hours, more preferably between 1 minute and 6 hours, before applying composition C to the hair or for example a washing, rinsing, wringing or drying step.

Preferably, the application time is between 1 minute and 5 hours, preferably between 5 minutes and 1 hour, after application of composition T and before application of composition C to the hair.

Composition C described above can be used on dry or damp hair, as well as on all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.

Preferably, a washing, rinsing, wringing and/or drying step is carried out after the application of composition C to the hair.

More preferably, a drying step is implemented after the application of composition C to the hair.

The application of composition C to the hair can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a sponge or with the fingers.

The application of composition C to the hair is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).

After applying composition C to the hair, one can wait between 1 minute and 6 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 1 hour, more preferably between 1 minute and 30 minutes, before for example a washing, rinsing, wringing and/or drying step.

After applying composition C, the hair can be left to dry or dried, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.

The method according to the invention can thus comprise a step of applying heat to the hair using a heating tool.

The heat application step of the method of the invention can be implemented using a helmet, a hair dryer, a straightening or curling iron, a climazon, etc.

Preferably, the heat application step of the method of the invention is carried out using a hair dryer.

When the method of the invention implements a step of applying heat to the hair, the step of applying heat to the hair takes place after the application of composition C to the hair.

During the heat application stage on the hair, a mechanical action on the strands can be carried out such as combing, brushing, or passing the fingers through.

When the step of applying heat to the hair is carried out using a helmet or a hair dryer, the temperature is preferably between 30 and 110°C, preferably between 50 and 90°C.

When the step of applying heat to the hair is carried out using a hair straightener, the temperature is preferably between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.

In a particular variant, the method of the invention implements a step (c1) of applying heat using a helmet, a hair dryer or a climazon, preferably a hair dryer and a step (c2) of applying heat using a hair straightener or curling iron, preferably a hair straightener.

Step (c1) can be done before step (c2).

During step (c1), also called the drying step, the hair may be dried, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is greater than 40°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is greater than 45°C and less than 110°C.

Preferably, if the hair is dried, it is dried, in addition to a heat supply, with a flow of air. This air flow during drying helps to improve the individualization of the sheathing.

During drying, mechanical action can be applied to the strands, such as combing, brushing or running your fingers through them.

During step (c2), the passage of the hair straightener or curling iron, preferably the hair straightener, can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 110 to 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.

After the heating step, a shaping step can be carried out with, for example, a hair straightener, the temperature for the shaping step can be between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.

Preferably, the invention is a hair coloring process comprising the following steps:

i) the application to the hair of a composition T comprising at least one AA agent chosen from amino acids and their derivatives;

ii) optionally a setting time of said composition T on the hair of 1 minute to 6 hours, preferably of 1 minute to 5 hours;

iii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing and/or drying said hair, preferably drying; then
iv) the application to the hair of at least one composition C comprising:

- at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as described above; and

- at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as described above; then
v) optionally a time for leaving said composition C on the hair of 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 20 minutes; then
vi) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing and/or drying said hair.

Preferably, composition C further comprises at least one compound having at least one carboxylic function as described above.

Advantageously, the step of applying composition C to the hair is repeated several times.

According to a preferred embodiment, step b) consists of mixing extemporaneously at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a composition C and applying composition C to the hair, with:

- composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined above,

composition A and/or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as defined above.

Composition A and/or composition B may optionally comprise at least one compound having at least one carboxylic function as described above.

Advantageously, composition B comprises at least one compound having at least one carboxylic function as described above.

Preferably, composition B comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as described above.

Preferably, composition A does not comprise at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as described above.

According to this embodiment, compositions A and B are mixed preferably less than 15 minutes before application to the hair, more preferably less than 10 minutes before application, better still less than 5 minutes before application.

The weight ratio between composition A and composition B preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.2 to 5, better still from 0.5 to 2, or even from 0.6 to 1.5. In a particular embodiment, the weight ratio between composition A and composition B is equal to 1.

The total amount of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

The total amount of the compound(s) having at least one carboxylic function preferably ranges from 0.2 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, better still from 1 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

The total amount of the aqueous dispersion(s) of particles of polymer(s) chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, and their mixtures preferably ranges from 0.2 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 50% by weight, better still from 1 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of the aqueous dispersion(s) of acrylic polymer particles preferably ranges from 0.2 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 50% by weight, better still from 1 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples serve to support specific features, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention.

EXAMPLES

The (poly)carbodiimide(s) of the invention are accessible by synthesis methods known to those skilled in the art from commercial products or reagents that can be synthesized according to chemical reactions also known to those skilled in the art. Examples include the work Sciences of Synthesis – Houben – Weyl Methods of Molecular Transformations, 2005, Georg Thiem Verlag Kg, Rudigerstrasse 14, D-70469 Stuttgart, or American patent US 4,284,730 or Canadian application CA 2,509,861.

More particularly, the process for preparing the (poly)carbodiimides of the invention uses, during a first step, a diisocyanate reagent (1):
O=C=NL ₁ -N=C=O (1),
formula (1) in which L ₁ is as defined above which reacts in the presence of a carboimidation catalyst (2) such as those described in US 4,284,730 in particular phosphorus catalysts particularly chosen from phospholene oxides and phospholene sulfoxides, diaza and oxazaphospholanes, preferably under an inert atmosphere (nitrogen or Argon), and in particular in a polar solvent, preferably aprotic, such as THF, glyme, diglyme, 1,4-dioxane, and DMF, at a temperature between room temperature and solvent reflux, preferably around 140°C; to yield the carbodiimide diisocyanate compound (3):
O=C=NL ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _n -N=C=O (3),
formula (3) in which L ₁ and n are as defined above. Halogenated benzoyl such as benzoyl chloride may be added to deactivate the catalyst.

To obtain “symmetrical” (poly)carbodiimides, during the second step of the preparation process, the compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent R ₁ -X ₁ -H, then 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent with R ₁ , X ₁ and E as defined above, to yield the “symmetrical” compound according to the invention (4):
[R ₁ -X ₁ -C(O)-NH-L ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _n -NH-C(O)] ₂ -E (4),
formula (4) in which R ₁ , X ₁ , L ₁ , n, and E are as defined above. According to a variant to obtain compound (4) from (3) it is possible to add first 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent, then 1 eq. of R ₁ -X ₁ -H reagent.

To obtain “asymmetric” (poly)carbodiimides, during the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent R ₁ -X ₁ -H then 1 eq. of HEH reagent with R ₁ , X ₁ and E as defined previously, to lead to compound (5):
R ₁ -X ₁ -C(O)-NH-L ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _n -NH-C(O)-EH (5),
formula (5) in which R ₁ , X ₁ , L ₁ , n, and E are as defined previously.

According to a variant to obtain the compound (5) from (3) it is possible to add first 1 eq. of reagent R ₁ -X ₁ -H, then 0.5 eq. of reagent HEH.

In a third step, compound (5) reacts with 1 eq. of compound (6)
R ₂ -X ₂ -C(O)-NH-L ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _z -N=C=O (6), said compound (6) is prepared beforehand from compound (3'):
O=C=NL ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _z -N=C=O (3'),

formula (3’) in which L₁and z are as defined previously which reacts with 1 eq of nucleophilic reagent R₂-X₂-H with L₁, R₂, X₂, and z as defined previously, to lead to the asymmetric compound (7):
R₁-X₁-C(O)-NH-L₁-(N=C=N-L₁)_n-NH-C(O)-E-C(O)-NH-L₁--(N=C=N-L₁)_z-NH-C(O)-X₂-R₂(7),

Formula (7) in which R ₁ , X ₁ , L ₁ , R ₂ , X ₂ , n, z and E are as defined previously.

It is also possible to react 1 molar equivalent of compound O=C=NL ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _z -N=C=O (3') with 1/w molar equivalent of HEH, then 1 eq. of nucleophilic reagent R ₂ -X ₂ -H to yield compound (8):
H-[EC(O)-NH-L ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _z ] _w -NH-C(O)-X ₂ -R ₂ (8),

formula (8) in which L ₁ , R ₂ , X ₂ , z and E are as defined previously, and w is an integer between 1 and 3, more preferably w = 1.

This last compound (8) can then react with 1 eq of compound (4'):
R ₁ -X ₁ -C(O)-NH-L ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _n -N=C=O (4'), (said compound (4') can be synthesized by reaction of 0.5 eq. of nucleophilic reagent R ₁ -X ₁ -H with 1 equivalent of compound (3)), to yield the (poly)carbodiimide of the invention (9):
R ₁ -X ₁ -C(O)-NH-L ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _n -NH-C(O)-[EC(O)-NH-L ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _z ] _w -NH C(O)-X ₂ -R ₂ (9),
formula (9) in which L ₁ , R ₁ , X ₁ , R ₂ , X ₂ , n, z, w, and E are as defined previously.

The (poly)carbodiimide compounds as well as all reaction intermediates and reagents can be purified with conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, such as extraction with water and water-immiscible organic solvent, precipitation, centrifugation, filtration, and/or chromatography.

Example 1: Process for the synthesis of the compound (poly)carbodiimide

In a 500 mL three-necked flask equipped with a thermometer, a stirrer and a reflux tube, 50 g of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate and 0.5 g of 4,5-dihydro-3-methyl-1-phenyl-1H-phosphole 1-oxide were introduced with stirring.

The reaction medium was heated to 140°C under nitrogen for 4 hours, following the reaction by infrared spectroscopy through the absorption of the isocyanate functions between 2200 and 2300 cm ^-1 , then cooled to 120°C.

A mixture of 5.3 g of polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether and 1.2 g of 1,4-butanediol is introduced into the reaction medium with stirring. The temperature of 120°C is maintained until the isocyanate functions have completely disappeared, followed by infrared spectroscopy at 2200-2300 cm ^-1 , then cooled to room temperature.

After cooling to room temperature, the reaction medium is poured dropwise with vigorous stirring into a 500 mL glass beaker containing 85 g of distilled water to yield the desired product in the form of a translucent yellow liquid.

Example 2

Compositions T1 and T2 as described in Tables 1 and 2 below were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of active material/100g, unless otherwise stated.

Compositions T1 T2 L-Glycine 5 - Poly-ε-lysine - 1.25 pH agent Qs pH 2.6 Qs pH 2.6 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

Compositions A and B as described in Tables 2 and 3 below were also prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is/100g, unless otherwise stated.

Composition HAS Polycarbodiimide ⁽¹⁾ 17.5 Ethanol 20 Water Qsp 100

(1) synthesized according to the synthesis process described in example 1 (at 40% active material in water).

Composition B Acrylates copolymer ⁽²⁾ 29.2 Red iron oxide 12 Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone ⁽³⁾ (and) C ₁₂ - ₁₃ Pareth-3 (and) C ₁₂ - ₁₃ Pareth-23 copolymer 10.2 Ethanol 3.75 Curator(s) qs Water Qsp 100

(2) sold by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 (aqueous dispersion with 30% active ingredient).

(3) sold by Dow Corning under the trade name DOW CORNING HMW 2220 NON-IONIC EMULSION (Divinyldimethicone/dimethicone block copolymer in aqueous emulsion) (60% active ingredient)).

Composition A was then mixed with composition B at a mass ratio of 50/50 to obtain a composition C according to the invention.

Protocol

Three different processes were implemented.

According to the first and second methods, compositions T1, for the first method, or T2, for the second method, were first applied to locks of hair of different types. Each of these compositions was applied to locks of hair, at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of lock. The treatment was left to act for 1 hour on a plate at a temperature of 39°C. Then, the locks were rinsed, then dried with a hair dryer.

Composition C was then applied to the strands previously treated with composition T1 or composition T2, at a rate of 0.8 g of composition per gram of strand. The strands of hair were then detangled and dried with a hair dryer.

The process implementing compositions T1 or T2, then composition C, are therefore processes according to the invention. In the following, they are called processes P1 and P2, respectively.

According to the third method, no application of composition T1 or composition T2 was carried out. Only composition C was applied to locks of different types, at a rate of 0.8 g of composition per gram of lock. The locks of hair were then detangled and dried with a hair dryer.

This process is therefore a comparative process, hereinafter referred to as process P3.

The processes applied are summarized in Table 4 below:

Procedures P1 (invention) P2 (invention) P3 (comparative) Application of compositions T1 + C T2 + C C

The different locks of hair treated by processes P1 to P3 were then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoos in order to evaluate the tenacity (the persistence) of the coloring obtained from the shampoos, according to the shampoo protocol described below.

Shampoo protocol:

The colored hair strands are combed, moistened under water at 35°C before being passed between the fingers 5 times for 5 seconds. The hair strands are then wrung out between two fingers.

A standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux) is applied evenly to the colored strands at a rate of 0.4g of standard shampoo per gram of strands, gently kneading the strands of hair lengthwise (6 passes) for 15 seconds, from root to tip.

The hair strands are then placed in a watch glass and left to sit for 1 minute.

Then, the hair strands are rinsed with water by passing the strand between the fingers (15 passes). The hair strands are then wrung out between two fingers before the next shampoo.

Once the several shampoo tests are done, the hair strands are combed and dried with a hair dryer.

Results

The color persistence of the strands was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).

In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the color intensity, a* indicates the green/red color axis and b* the blue/yellow color axis.

The persistence of the colour is assessed by the colour difference ΔE between the coloured strands before shampooing, then after having undergone 5 shampoos according to the protocol described above. The lower the value of ΔE, the more the colour persists after shampooing.

The value of ΔE is calculated according to the following equation:

In this equation, L*, a*, b* represent the values measured after hair coloring and after shampooing, and L ₀ *, a ₀ *, b ₀ * represent the values measured after hair coloring but before shampooing.

As indicated above, the different processes were carried out on different types of hair. In particular, they were carried out on strands of 90% white natural dry hair, referred to below as BN90, and on strands of 90% permed white dry hair, referred to below as BP90.

Thus, in the tables below, for example, the process P1 implemented on strands of BN90 hair is called P1BN90, or the process P3 implemented on strands of BP90 hair is called P3BP90, etc.

The results are summarized in the tables below.

Procedures Number of shampoos L* has* b* ΔE P3BN90 (comparison) 0 36.2 25.8 19.9 - 5 42.6 16.1 14.1 13.0 P1BN90 (invention) 0 37.5 23.4 18.0 - 5 39.7 18.7 15.1 5.9

Procedures Number of shampoos L* has* b* ΔE P3BP90 (comparison) 0 34.1 25.6 19.7 - 5 55.1 7.3 12.9 28.7 P2BP90 (invention) 0 31.0 27.9 21.6 - 5 35.4 25.0 19.0 5.9

The hair strands treated with the processes according to the invention and washed with five shampoos have lower ΔE values than those of the hair strands treated with the comparative process, for different hair types, whether on BN90 or BP90 hair strands.

Thus, the colored coating obtained with the processes according to the invention has improved persistence to shampooing.

Claims (14)

Hair coloring process comprising:
a) the application to the hair of at least one composition T comprising at least one AA agent chosen from amino acids and their derivatives; then
b) the application to the hair of at least one composition C comprising:
- at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound; and
- at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the AA agent is chosen from natural amino acids, synthetic amino acids, in their L, D, or racemic form, and comprising at least one acid function chosen from carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions, peptides, polypeptides, and their mixtures. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the AA agent is chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, polylysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and mixtures thereof, preferably from lysine, polylysine, glycine and mixtures thereof. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the AA agent is present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition T. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I):
(I)
in which:
- X ₁ and X ₂ represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
- R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent a group chosen from a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane, and a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and by one or more groups selected from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide groups such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; and
- A is a monomer chosen from the compounds below:
. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of the following formula (II):
(II),
in which
- X ₁ and X ₂ represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
- R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ≥ 2 and w denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3;
- L ₁ independently represents a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ heterocycloalkylene group, or a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
- E independently represents a group chosen from:
-OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -,
in which R ₃ and R ₄ independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
- R ₅ independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
- R ₆ independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s). Process according to claim 6, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;
- R ₁ and R ₂ are independently selected from dialkylaminoalcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ≥ 2 and w is equal to 1;
- L1 is chosen from a divalent _C1 - _C18 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a _C3 - _C15 cycloalkylene radical, a _C3 - _C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a _C6 - _C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
- E independently represents a group chosen from:
- -OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -;
in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a _C6 - _C14 arylene radical, a _C3 - _C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched _C1 - _C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
- when R ₅ is not a covalent bond, R ₅ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and
- R ₆ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof. Process according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;
- R ₁ and R ₂ , are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ≥ 2 and w is equal to 1;
- L ₁ is a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical;
- E independently represents a group chosen from:
-OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -;
in which R ₃ and R ₄ are independently chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
- when R ₅ is not a covalent bond, R ₅ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and
- R ₆ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof. Process according to any one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- X₁ and X₂independently represent an oxygen atom;
- R₁and R₂, independently represent the compound of the following formula (VI):
R₁₃-[O-CH₂-C(H)(R₁₄)]_q- (VI),
in which R₁₃represents a C alkyl group₁-C₄or a phenyl, preferably a C 1 -C 2 alkyl group₁-C₄, more preferably a methyl, R₁₄represents a hydrogen atom or a C alkyl group₁-C₄, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w equal to 1;
- L₁is a C cycloalkylene radical₃-C₁₅such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, and
- E represents a -O-R group₃-O- in which R₃is chosen from a C arylene radical₆-C₁₄, a C cycloalkylene radical₃-C₁₂, a linear or branched C alkylene radical₁-C₁₈, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof. Process according to any one of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;
- R ₁ and R ₂ , independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following:
R ₁₃ -[O-CH ₂ -C(H)(R ₁₄ )] _q - (VI),
in which R ₁₃ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, and w is equal to 1;
- L ₁ is a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and
- E represents a group - -OR ₃ -O- in which R ₃ represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s). Process according to any one of claims 6 to 10, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (XII) below:
(XII),
in which L ₁ is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a group - -OR ₃ -O- in which R ₃ represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of coloring agent(s) chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that step b) consists in mixing extemporaneously at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a composition C and in applying composition C to the hair, with:
- composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined in any one of claims 1 and 5 to 11,
composition A and/or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as defined in claim 1.