FR3143295A1 - Article in particular cosmetic adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and/or décolleté and loaded with hydrophilic active ingredient - Google Patents

Abstract

Article in particular cosmetic adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and/or neckline and loaded with hydrophilic active ingredient an article in particular cosmetic adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and/or neckline comprising a non-woven support sheet, made of fibers non-synthetic, and which contains at least one hydrophilic active ingredient intended to exert a specific action on the skin, characterized in that said active ingredient is immobilized at said support sheet, in the dry state, in a non-covalent manner and in association with at least one hydrophilic plant exudate and a melting point varying from 55°C to 140°C.

Description

Article in particular cosmetic adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and/or décolleté and loaded with hydrophilic active ingredient

The present invention relates to cosmetic treatment devices, in particular applicators for cosmetic products. By “cosmetic product”, we mean any composition as defined in EC Regulation No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council dated November 30, 2009, relating to cosmetic products.

It concerns in particular devices capable of conforming to the shape of the area to be treated and advantageously capable of adapting to the reliefs of the face, neck and/or neckline, for example a facial mask.

It also concerns more particularly the implementation of such devices for the topical administration of one or more hydrophilic active ingredients, in particular water-soluble, but packaged in the dry state in these devices.

Hydrophilic active ingredients may in fact have a lack of stability when they are packaged, in a solubilized or dispersed form in an aqueous medium, over a prolonged time and may therefore be subject to partial degradation during prolonged storage in this form. To prevent this undesirable phenomenon, it is usual to combine these active solutes with one or more preservatives. However, there is a desire to free ourselves as much as possible from the use of such preservatives in cosmetic products.

The inventors were therefore concerned with the development of a new type of packaging conducive to the conservation of these hydrophilic active ingredients in a dry form but also compatible with aqueous solubilization or dispersion of the latter at the time of their contact with the skin area to be treated.

This formulation in the dry state at the level of a device, which is also flexible to adapt to the reliefs of the face, neck and/or décolleté like, for example, a mask for the face, also imposes to satisfy a number of additional requirements.

It is necessary to guarantee lasting immobilization of the powder formulation of these active ingredients on the application surface of this device.

This same device must be suitable for packaging a wide variety of powder formulations, whether in terms of particle size or nature of active ingredients, inert or living.

Any agglomeration phenomenon, such as caking for example, of this powder formulation at the device level, as well as any risk of degradation of these active ingredients must be prevented.

These active ingredients must be transferred effectively upon contact with the skin area to be treated and in a solubilized form.

To all of these requirements are added those of offering consumers an attractive device in aesthetic terms, which is also respectful of the environment and whose development involves a simple process and imposes the smallest possible carbon footprint. .

As appears from what follows, the inventors have precisely developed such a device, also known as a cosmetic article, and a corresponding manufacturing process making it possible to provide satisfaction in these terms.

Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a particularly cosmetic article adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and/or neckline comprising a non-woven support sheet, made of non-synthetic fibers, and which contains at least a hydrophilic active ingredient intended to exert a specific action on the skin characterized in that said active ingredient is immobilized at said support sheet, in the dry state, in a non-covalent manner and in association with at least one hydrophilic plant exudate and melting point varying from 55°C to 140°C.

As illustrated below, the article according to the invention has the advantage of being compatible with immobilization of a significant quantity of hydrophilic active ingredient and whose particle size can vary significantly and in particular from 1 µm to 2000 µm, and preferably varying from 5 µm to 1700 µm.

Furthermore, when the support sheet loaded with dry active ingredient is brought into contact with water, advantageously no phenomenon of lumps appearing is observed. The active ingredient is delivered in its entirety to the surface of the skin to which the active ingredient-loaded support sheet is applied.

According to a particular embodiment, the hydrophilic plant exudate is water-soluble and has a melting point varying from 60°C to 110°C.

According to a particular embodiment, the plant exudate comprises at least and in particular consists of an exudate of Aloe Vera leaves.

According to a particular embodiment, the hydrophilic active ingredient is a vitamin and in particular vitamin C.

In particular, said hydrophilic active ingredient and said hydrophilic plant exudate are used in an active/exudate weight ratio varying from 95/5 to 50/50, in particular from 90/10 to 70/30.

As specified above, the support sheet (10) is non-woven and is made of non-synthetic fibers.

In particular, the fibrous support loaded with active ingredient considered in the article according to the invention is obtained according to a process comprising at least the steps consisting of:

-Have a dry and powdery mixture of at least said hydrophilic active ingredient, in particular water-soluble, with at least said plant exudate,

-Form on one side of a non-woven, porous support sheet made of non-synthetic fibers, a deposit, at least partially in depth, of said mixture,

-Exposing said deposit to a calendering operation carried out at a temperature and pressure conducive to the fusion of said plant exudate but inactive with respect to said active ingredient and the fibers of said support sheet and preferably at a temperature varying from 100°C to 140°C and a pressure varying from 0.4 kN to 600 kN for less than 30 seconds, and

-Recover said support sheet loaded with hydrophilic active ingredient.

The present invention further aims at the use of a particularly cosmetic article according to the invention to treat the skin of the face, neck and/or décolleté.

According to a first variant, the fibrous support of said article is moistened with water, in particular by soaking, imbibing, or spraying in water, before application, then applied to the skin, preferably previously wet, while being there. stretched or not, so as to adapt to the user's morphology.

According to a second variant, the fibrous support of said article is applied in the dry state to wet skin.

According to a third variant, the fibrous support of said article is applied in the dry state to dry or wet skin, then is moistened there in particular by sprinkling with water.

illustrates the adhesion qualities of vitamin C on an article according to the invention.

detailed description Fibrous support

As specified above, the constituent fibers of the support considered according to the invention for immobilizing at least one hydrophilic active ingredient, and in particular water-soluble, are non-synthetic fibers.

For the purposes of the invention, non-synthetic fibers are fibers not derived from materials exclusively accessible by chemical synthesis, such as for example a synthetic polymer.

Thus, the non-synthetic fibers retained according to the invention are advantageously chosen from natural fibers of material of natural origin such as for example natural cellulose fibers, fibers generated from at least one material of natural origin such as for example natural cellulose, recycled cellulosic fibers such as for example circulose, biosourced fibers such as for example fibers obtained by bio-fermentation such as for example microbial cellulose and mycelium foam and their mixtures.

These fibers are advantageously hydrophilic, absorbent and furthermore not subject to a yellowing phenomenon when exposed to a temperature strictly below 150°C, preferably strictly below 130°C. They are also non-hot melt.

In particular, the non-synthetic fibers are chosen from natural cellulose fibers, regenerated cellulose fibers, wood pulp fibers, paper fibers, fibers from seeds such as cotton and kapok, fibers from plant stems such as flax, hemp, jute and nettle, fibers from leaves such as abaca, fibers from fruits such as coconut and their mixtures.

For the purposes of the invention, “a regenerated cellulose fiber” is a fiber obtained from natural cellulose transformed by a succession of chemical operations, in particular as specified below for the Lyocell product.

The natural cellulose used to manufacture regenerated cellulose fibers can thus come from different wood pulps (beech, white pine, eucalyptus, etc.), or even bamboo pulp.

According to a particular embodiment, the fibers constituting the fibrous support comprise at least and in particular consist of regenerated cellulose fibers, in particular like those of the Lyocell product.

More specifically, this product is obtained from wood pulp which is mixed with an environmentally friendly organic dissolving agent and water. The assembly is then heated under vacuum to remove water until the cellulose dissolves and a spinning solution is formed. This is then filtered and pressed through spinnerets then placed in a spinning bath where the fibers are formed. Such a product is notably marketed under the names Tencel® and Veocel®.

According to a particular embodiment, the fibrous support considered contains at least wood pulp fibers.

According to another particular embodiment, the fibrous support contains regenerated cellulose fibers and one or more other fibers chosen from wood pulp fibers, paper fibers, fibers from seeds such as cotton and kapok, fibers from plant stems such as flax, hemp, jute and nettle, fibers from leaves such as abaca, fibers from fruits such as coconut and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment, the fibrous support contains regenerated cellulose fibers and wood pulp fibers and/or paper pulp fibers and in particular regenerated cellulose fibers and wood pulp fibers.

As a representative of fibrous supports consisting of such mixtures of fibers, we can in particular cite the non-woven supports Tricell® from the company Ecowipes, the CAC supports from the company Mondi, the Sontara® supports from the company Glatfelter and the BioLace supports ® from the Suominen company.

According to a particular embodiment, the synthetic fibers constituting said fibrous support consist of regenerated cellulose fibers and wood pulp fibers.

According to another particular embodiment, the fibrous support contains regenerated cellulose fibers and recycled non-synthetic textile fibers.

As specified above, the fibrous support is in the form of a sheet or in other words a thin plate of fibrous material.

The constituent fibers of said support are not woven and therefore their structural organization provides porosity at the level of the support sheet considered according to the invention.

According to a particular embodiment, the fibrous support considered according to the invention is loaded with at least 10 g/m², or even with at least 25 g/m² of hydrophilic active ingredient.

Hydrophilic plant exudate

As specified above, the hydrophilic active ingredient according to the invention is immobilized on the fibrous substrate in association with at least one hydrophilic plant exudate with a melting point varying from 55°C to 140°C, in particular from 60°C to 110°C. °C.

This exudate also comes in a dry form.

In particular, it is water-soluble.

It has a melting temperature of less than 150°C, preferably less than 130°C, in order to be effectively and quickly melted during the preparation of the fibrous support forming the article according to the invention, in particular according to the process detailed below. .

It is advantageously not subject to a yellowing phenomenon at a temperature strictly below 100°C, preferably strictly below 130°C.

In addition to its ability to contribute to the immobilization of the active ingredient at the level of the fibrous support, the plant exudate can also have a cosmetic activity with respect to the skin, and possibly provide a cosmetic effect, in synergy or not, with the effect attached to the active ingredient impregnated in the fibrous support.

According to a particular embodiment, the binder comprises at least and in particular consists of an exudate of Aloe Vera leaves.

As a representative of such an exudate, reference may be made to the commercial product Aloe Vera Freeze Dried Powder ^® 200:1 from Mexi Aloe Lab.

Hydrophilic active

For the purposes of the invention, the term “hydrophilic active ingredient” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active ingredient capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient is a water-soluble active ingredient.

It can be represented by a single active ingredient or a mixture of hydrophilic active ingredients. For the purposes of the invention, the term “hydrophilic active ingredient” covers these two alternatives.

Immobilized at the fibrous support, the hydrophilic active ingredient remains endowed with its properties, in particular its cosmetic activity and its hydrophilicity. In other words, its native properties are not affected by its method of preparation in particular as detailed below and which includes in particular a calendering operation carried out in particular at a temperature varying from 100 ° C to 140 ° C and a pressure varying from 0.4 kN to 600 kN.

The cosmetic active ingredient is present at the level of the support it impregnates, in a dry and powdery state. It may in particular be a native powder but also a powder obtained by conventional drying or by atomization, or freeze-drying for example.

For the purposes of the invention, the term dry means that the ingredient concerned, in particular the active ingredient as well as the associated plant exudate detailed above, contains less than 6% by weight, preferably less than 5%. by weight of water, and more preferably less than 2% by weight of water, relative to its total weight.

A dry ingredient thus has excellent powder fluidity, conducive to its intimate mixing with other ingredients and its penetration into the porosity of the support sheet considered.

The active ingredient, immobilized according to the invention, is not covalently linked to the fibrous support and is therefore capable of being released from it by interacting with an aqueous medium.

This active ingredient may in particular be an anti-oxidant, healing, hydrating, depigmenting, and/or anti-aging agent.

As representative and illustrative of these categories of active ingredients, we can cite in particular the following compounds:

C-glycoside compounds

In particular, this cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from the C-glycoside compounds, of the following general formula:

in which :

- R denotes an unsubstituted linear alkyl radical in C ₁ -C ₄ , in particular in C ₁ -C ₂ , in particular methyl;

- S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

- X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH ₂ )-, and preferably a –CH(OH)- group;

as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

By way of illustration and not limitation of the C-glycosides more particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may in particular be cited:

- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;

- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;

- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;

- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;

- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

- 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;

- 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;

- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane;

- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

Niacinamide compound

In particular, this cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from niacinamide (also known as Vitamin B3), N,N-diethylniacinamide, N-picolylniacinamide, N-allylniacinamide.

Adenosine and its analogues

In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from adenosine and its analogues such as 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-isopropoylidene adenosine, toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine; N-6-methyladenosine, adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside, 6-chloropurine riboside, 5'-adenosine monophosphate, 5'-adenosine diphosphate and 5'-adenosine triphosphate, phenylisopropyl- adenosine (PIA), 1-methylisoguanosine, N-6-Cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N-6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N-6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N-6 -phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, N-6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl) phenethyl-amino-5'-Nethylcarboxamido-adenosine (CGS-21680), N-10-ethylcarboxamido- adenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, metrifudil, erythro-9-(2-hydroxy3-nonyl) adenine (EHNA) and iodotubercidin.

Adenosine is notably available commercially in powder form from the company Pharma Waldhof.

Ascorbic acid and derivatives

In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from ascorbic acid, also called Vitamin C, in D or L form, advantageously in L form, and its analogues chosen from its salts, preferably sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbylphosphate, glycosylated ascorbic acid, its ose esters and its phosphorylated metal salts.

The ose esters of ascorbic acid which can be used in the invention are in particular the glycosylated, mannosylated, fructosylated, fucosylated, galactosylated Nacetylglucosamine, N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and their mixtures, and more especially ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-α-D glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid or even 6-O-β-D-galactopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid. These latter compounds as well as their preparation processes are in particular described in documents EP 487 404 and EP 425 066.

The metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid can be chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

The ascorbic acid derivatives can be chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate sold under the reference PRO-AA by the Exsymol Company, the potassium salt of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-dl-ascorbyl-phosphate sold under the reference Sepivital EPC by the Senju Pharmaceutical Company, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate marketed under the reference Stay-C 50 by the Roche Company and ascorbyl glucoside marketed by the Hayashibara company.

This may in particular be the product marketed by the company BASF under the name Ascorbic Acid/80 Mesh.

According to a particular mode, the support according to the invention contains at least one vitamin and in particular vitamin C or one of its derivatives, in particular its salts.

Hyaluronic acid

In particular, this cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives.

In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:

The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes in the context of the present invention the linear polymer comprising the polymer unit described above, in a sequence by the alternating glycosidic bonds β(1,4) and β(1,3), having a molecular weight (MW) which can vary between 380 and 13000000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source of obtaining the hyaluronic acid and/or the preparation methods.

The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also covers according to the invention the salts of hyaluronic acid and in particular the alkaline salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt.

In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in peri-cellular gels, in the basic substance of the connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and in particular in the epidermis, in the synovial fluid articular, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the cristagalli process.

Thus, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” includes all the fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight notably included in the molecular weight range recalled above.

In the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use hyaluronic acid fractions which do not exhibit inflammatory activity.

As an illustration of the different hyaluronic acid fractions, reference can be made to the document “Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system”, R. Stern et al. , European Journal of CeIl Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid based on its molecular weight.

Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes esters of hyaluronic acid, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with alcohols or oxyethylenated alkyls, comprising 1 with 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a substitution rate at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid varying from 0.5% to 50%.

Mention may in particular be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have notably been described in D. Campoccia et al. “Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification”, Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

Hyaluronic acid may in particular be available from the company Hyactive under the trade name CPN (PM: 10 to 150 kDa), from the company Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (PM: 1.1 x 10 ⁶ ), from the company Bioland under the name Nutra HA (PM: 820000 Da), the company Bioland under the name Nutra AF (PM: 69000 Da), the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (PM: 6100 Da) or the company Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (PM: 380 Da).

Preferably, sodium hyaluronate is used.

Salicylic acid compounds

In particular, this cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from salicylic acid compounds.

The salicylic acid compound is preferably chosen from salicylic acid and the compounds of the following formula:

in which :

- the radical R designates an aliphatic chain having 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; an unsaturated chain having 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more conjugable double bonds; an aromatic ring linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having 1 with 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- R’ is a hydroxyl group;

as well as their salts from a mineral or organic base.

Among the particularly preferred salicylic acid compounds, mention may be made of n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid), n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-dodecanoyl-5-acid. salicylic acid, n-heptanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and their corresponding salts.

The salicylic acid compound is preferably chosen from salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and more preferably is n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

The salts of the compounds of formula illustrated above can be obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base. As an example of a mineral base, we can cite alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia.

Among the organic bases, we can cite amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts like those described in patent FR 2 607 498 are particularly interesting.

This active ingredient can also be a plant extract such as madecassoside extracted from Centella asiatica.

More precisely, this asset can be chosen from:

- vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as in particular niacinamide (3-pyridinecarboxamide) nicotinamide (vitamin B3), provitamin B5 also known as panthenol, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as acetate tocopherol), ascorbic acid and its derivatives (vitamin C),

- moisturizers, such as in particular urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides, xylitylgiucoside and plant extracts, in particular tea, mint, orchid, soy, aloe vera, honey, and in particular glycerol,

- C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (or proxylane)

- antioxidant compounds,

- anti-aging active ingredients, such as for example hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salycilic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid,

- keratolytic agents such as lactic acid or glycolic acid, and

- their mixtures.

Preferably, an article according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble cosmetic active ingredient chosen from moisturizers, C-glycoside compounds, and in particular hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, hyaluronic acid compounds and in particular sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds

and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salycilic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, lactic acid, adenosine and its analogues, plant extracts such as for example madecassoside, compounds niacinamide, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferably, an article according to the invention comprises at least one anti-aging cosmetic active ingredient, in particular chosen from hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, or proxylane, adenosine, niacinamide compounds, salicylic acid compounds, ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof, more particularly chosen from hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, adenosine, niacinamide compounds, ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the fibrous support considered according to the invention contains at least vitamin C and in particular from 15 g/m² to 35 g/m² of vitamin C.

According to a particular embodiment, the fibrous support considered according to the invention contains at least one exudate of Aloe Vera leaves and from 15 g/m² to 35 g/m² of vitamin C.

According to another particular embodiment, the fibrous support considered according to the invention comprises regenerated cellulose fibers and contains at least vitamin C, in particular from 15 g/m² to 35 g/m² of vitamin C.

In addition to at least one hydrophilic active ingredient and at least one plant exudate in accordance with the invention, the fibrous support of said article may contain one or more additional compounds.

Additional compounds

As additional compounds we can cite anti-caking agents, powder flow aids, stabilizers, regulators and pH buffers.

These additional compounds are also present in the dry state and in particular in powder form.

In a particular embodiment, the fibrous support according to the invention also contains at least one anti-caking agent which can in particular be chosen from silica, sodium carbonate, talc, a bamboo exudate (rich in silica) and their mixtures, and in particular at least silica.

In a particular embodiment, the charged fibrous support according to the invention also contains at least one stabilizer which may in particular be sodium citrate.

In a particular embodiment, the fibrous support loaded according to the invention also contains at least one thickener or texturizer.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the fibrous support of the invention is preferably free of compounds likely to be harmful to humans and/or the environment, that is to say it comprises less than 0 .01% by weight, or even is devoid of compounds likely to be harmful to humans and/or the environment.

Thus, it is in particular free of silicone compound and/or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and preferably is free of silicone compound and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid.

Preparation process d u fibrous support of the article according to ’ invention

The fibrous support loaded with hydrophilic active ingredient can be obtained by bringing a dry powder form of the hydrophilic active ingredient to be immobilized into contact with a non-woven, porous fibrous support made of non-synthetic fibers, in the presence of at least one exudate. vegetable, hydrophilic and with a melting point as defined according to the invention.

As specified above, this process comprises in particular the following steps

- Have a dry and powdery mixture of this hydrophilic active ingredient, in particular water-soluble, with at least one hydrophilic plant exudate, in particular water-soluble, with a melting point varying from 55°C to 140°C,

- Form at one side of the non-woven, porous support sheet made of non-synthetic fibers considered, a deposit, at least partially in depth, of said mixture,

- Expose said deposit to a calendering operation carried out at a temperature and pressure conducive to the fusion of said plant exudate but inactive with respect to said active ingredient and the fibers of said support sheet and preferably at a temperature varying from 100°C to 140°C and a pressure varying from 0.4 kN to 600 kN for less than 30 seconds, and

- Recover said support sheet loaded with hydrophilic active ingredient.

a) Formation of the deposit

In particular, the deposit is formed from a powder mixture of at least the two ingredients required according to the invention and of which, if necessary, the particle size could be adjusted beforehand to a particle size range which is in adequacy with the porosity of the support to be loaded in active.

Generally speaking, the particle size of the two deposited ingredients can vary significantly and in particular from 1 µm to 2000 µm, and preferably varying from 5 µm to 1700 µm. This particle size can be characterized with, for example, an Aero dry process disperser such as the Mastersizer 3000 laser diffraction particle size analyzer (Malvern Panalytical).

According to a particular embodiment, the powders of each of the ingredients, hydrophilic active ingredient and plant exudate, or if present, one or more other additional compounds in particular as defined above, are respectively introduced in the form of a dry powder using inside a powder mixing unit such as a batch powder mixer in order to mix them thoroughly.

Deposition of the mixture on one side of the support sheet to be loaded can be carried out using a technique such as sprinkling, using a powder funnel, or by spraying using, for example, a nozzle. In some cases, it is possible to use localized dusting or to use a stencil to impregnate only certain areas of the support.

Sprinkling is generally carried out over the entire surface of the support to be impregnated.

The support thus covered with the mixture can then be exposed to a mechanical operation, in particular dedicated to making the mixture penetrate the porosity of the support. Advantageously, the formation of the deposit of the mixture comprises in particular an impregnation operation, mechanical or not, dedicated to making said mixture penetrate at least in part into the porosity of said support sheet.

The impregnation operation can in particular be chosen from a brushing operation, a scraping operation applied to the surface of said deposit, a vibration operation imposed on said support sheet, a suction operation applied at the level of the face of the support sheet, opposite to that supporting said mixture, or even is a combination of at least two of these operations.

For example, it may involve vibrating or shaking the deposit on the surface of the support to stimulate the movement inside the porosity of the fibrous support of the powder deposited on the surface of this support.

Another impregnation technique can be based on air suction applied to the back of the face of the support loaded with powder. This suction would advantageously allow excess powder to be recovered.

The deposit is said to be “partially formed at depth”, on the grounds that the powder mixture may not be entirely distributed in the pores of the fibrous support and that part of it may remain on the surface.

Generally speaking, this deposit is formed at ambient temperature 20°C +/-5°C and at atmospheric pressure.

b) Calendering operation

This operation takes place following the deposition of the powder mixture.

The parameters of the calendering operation, namely temperature, pressure and time, are in fact adjusted to lead to the fusion of the plant exudate considered while preventing the manifestation of an undesirable side effect with regard to the hydrophilic active ingredient. and fibers constituting the support, also exposed to this calendering.

In other words, the calendering operation alters neither the integrity, nor the effectiveness, nor the hydrophilicity of the active ingredient and does not generate a significant yellowing phenomenon of the fibers constituting the non-woven support. . The latter remains at the end of the calendering, attractive in terms of appearance for its user.

This calendering is carried out on the scale of seconds and in particular in a duration of less than 50 seconds, and preferably less than 30 seconds.

According to a particular embodiment, the calendering operation is carried out at a temperature varying from 100°C to 140°C and a pressure varying from 0.4 kN to 600 kN for less than 30 seconds, preferably for less than 15 seconds .

This calendering operation is generally carried out using an in-line heating calender.

At the end of this calendering step, a fibrous support sheet is obtained impregnated with at least one hydrophilic active ingredient in the dry state in accordance with the invention.

As specified above, the fibrous support of the invention is loaded with at least 10 g/m², or even with at least 25 g/m² of hydrophilic active ingredient.

This impregnation rate can in particular be characterized according to the method detailed in the experimental part and which is based in particular on the characterization of a weight content at the level of the fibrous support loaded according to the invention.

In this case, the fibrous support is weighed following the flash calendering step and is fixed on a Bose® test bench (model 3330). Weighted by attaching to its end a clamp with a mass of 4 g., it is shaken for a period of 30 seconds, at a frequency of 10 Hz and with an amplitude of 12 mm. It is then weighed a second time. The ratio between the post-shaking weighing and the pre-shaking weighing makes it possible to define the impregnation rate of the powder within the fibrous material.

The article obtained according to the invention is in particular in the form of a facial mask, a wipe, a disc or cushion (“pad”) and in particular in the form of a mask for the face.

According to another embodiment, the support sheet has perforations and/or cutouts.

According to a particular embodiment, the article is associated with a reservoir containing the aqueous medium dedicated to the hydration of said active ingredient.

Cosmetic treatment process

The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for cleaning and/or caring for the skin, in particular of the face, neck and/or décolleté, comprising at least the step consisting of applying to the skin to treat a fibrous support sheet loaded with hydrophilic active ingredient of an article according to the invention, in the presence of an aqueous medium or even water.

According to one embodiment, the fibrous support sheet is loaded with an aqueous medium or even with water prior to its application to the skin. In particular, this loading can be carried out by immersion of the support in an aqueous medium or even water, imbibition with an aqueous medium or by spraying the support with an aqueous medium or even water.

According to another embodiment, the fibrous support sheet is applied to moistened skin.

According to yet another embodiment, the fibrous support sheet is applied to dry or moistened skin, and is then brought into contact with an aqueous medium or even water, in particular by spraying or humidification.

The fibrous support sheet is kept on the skin for a specific period of time and adjusted to the release of the active ingredient in its water-soluble or water-dispersible form.

Generally this duration can vary from 1 minute to 30 minutes, or even from 2 minutes to 20 minutes, being for example of the order of approximately 10-15 minutes.

The method according to the invention can in particular be useful for the treatment of rehydration, anti-wrinkle, anti-puffiness, or anti-dark circles, or even to provide a plumping effect.

The examples and figures which follow are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the field of the invention.

Materials and methods

Ascorbic acid is a commercial powder product available from BASF under the name Ascorbic Acid/80 Mesh. Its particle size expressed in micrometers is as follows: D10 = 35+/-5, D50 = 160+/-70, D90 = 350+/-155 and its melting point greater than 180°C.

Aloe Vera Exudate is a powdered commercial product available from Mexi Aloe Laboratorios (marketed by Rossow). Its particle size expressed in micrometers is as follows: D10 = 20, D50 = 55, D90 = 1700 and its melting point varies from 67°C to 108°C.

The porous, non-woven support is made of Lyocell material. This is a product available from the supplier Jacob Holm (reel width = 32 cm, thickness = 0.5 mm and surface mass = 50 gm ^-2 ). The fibrous support used for the tests is cut from this non-woven roll in the form of discs.

Powder Loss Protocol:

To quantify the impregnation of the powder within the fibrous support the following protocol is implemented:

The fibrous support is weighed following the calendering step and is fixed on a Bose ^® test bench (model 3330). The fibrous support is then weighted by attaching a clamp with a mass of 4 g to its end. The fibrous support is subsequently shaken for a period of 30 seconds, at a frequency of 10 Hz and with an amplitude of 12 mm. At the end of the sequence, the support is weighed a second time. The ratio between the post-shaking weighing and the pre-shaking weighing makes it possible to define the impregnation rate of the powder within the fibrous material. The ratio between the pre-shaking weighing minus the post-shaking weighing and the pre-shaking weighing makes it possible to define the rate of powder loss following shaking.

Example 1

Impregnation ’ powdered ascorbic acid on a non-woven disc according to the ’ invention

A first step consists of grinding by centrifugation of 100 g of a mixture of ascorbic acid and Aloe Vera exudate in a weight ratio of 85:15 respectively. This grinding is carried out using a Stuart Sr4 ^® centrifuge grinder; the mill is filled to a third of its maximum capacity then grinding takes place for 1 hour at maximum power so as to obtain a mixture for deposit with a particle size as follows D10 = 16, D50 = 45, D90 = 94 µm.

The powder mixture thus obtained is then applied manually by sprinkling onto the fibrous disk, then the powder is spread uniformly and homogeneously on the surface of the fibrous material using a brush. The operation is completed when the surface mass of ascorbic acid reaches 25 gm ^-2 .

The disc and its deposit thus formed is then placed on an aluminum plate (15 cm * 15 cm) preheated in contact with the press and covered with a sheet of glass fabric coated with ^Teflon® . The assembly is then subjected to a pressing process using a LabEcon 600 heated plate press from Fontijne Presses, at a pressure of 30 kN, a temperature of 130°C for 5 seconds.

The fibrous disk thus loaded is characterized as having a powder loss of approximately 20%. A very minor and therefore insignificant yellowing is noted.

The same test is reproduced but with a mixture of 100g of ascorbic acid and Aloe Vera exudate (A) in a weight ratio of 80:20 respectively. The support thus loaded is characterized as having no powder loss defect and as not subject to significant yellowing.

There reports these powder adhesion results. As expected, the adhesion power of the powder on the nonwoven is increased by increasing the binder content. At 20% binder in the powder mixture, the adhesion power is maximum according to the shaking conditions detailed above. No loss of powder is observed.

Claims (15)

Article, in particular cosmetic, adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and/or décolleté comprising a non-woven support sheet, made of non-synthetic fibers and which contains at least one hydrophilic active ingredient intended to exert a specific action on the skin, characterized by the fact that said active ingredient is immobilized at said support sheet, in the dry state, in a non-covalent manner and in association with at least one hydrophilic plant exudate with a melting point varying from 55°C to 140°C . Article according to the preceding claim in which said plant exudate is water-soluble and has a melting point varying from 60 to 110°C. Article according to any one of the preceding claims in which said plant exudate comprises at least and in particular consists of an exudate of Aloe Vera leaves. Article according to any one of the preceding claims in which said cosmetic active ingredient is water-soluble and chosen from moisturizers, C-glycoside compounds, and in particular hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, hyaluronic acid compounds and in particular sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salycilic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, lactic acid, adenosine and its analogues, plant extracts such as in particular madecassoside, niacinamide compounds, and mixtures thereof. Article according to any one of the preceding claims in which said fibrous support is loaded with at least 10 g/m², or even with at least 25 g/m² of hydrophilic active ingredient. Article according to any one of the preceding claims in which said hydrophilic active ingredient and said plant exudate are used in an active/exudate weight ratio varying from 95/5 to 50/50, in particular from 90/10 to 70/30. Article according to any one of the preceding claims in which said fibrous support contains vitamin C and at least one exudate of Aloe Vera leaves, and in particular from 15 g/m² to 35 g/m² of vitamin C. Article according to any one of the preceding claims in which said fibrous support additionally contains at least one anti-caking agent and in particular at least silica. Article according to any one of the preceding claims in which said non-synthetic fibers are chosen from natural fibers of material of natural origin, fibers generated from at least one material of natural origin, recycled cellulosic fibers, biosourced fibers and their mixtures. Article according to any one of the preceding claims in the form of a facial mask, a wipe, a disc or a pad and in particular in the form of a facial mask. Article according to any one of the preceding claims associated with a reservoir containing an aqueous medium dedicated to the hydration of said active ingredient . Use of an article as defined according to any one of the preceding claims to treat the skin of the face, neck and/or décolleté. Use according to claim 12, characterized in that the fibrous support of said article is moistened with water before application, then applied to the skin, preferably previously wet, being stretched there or not, so as to adapt to the user's morphology. Use according to claim 12, characterized in that the fibrous support of said article is applied in the dry state to wet skin. Use according to claim 12, characterized in that the fibrous support of said article applied in the dry state to dry or wet skin then the support sheet is moistened in particular by sprinkling with water.