FR3007645A1 - EMULSION GEL STARCH PEMULEN - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 10% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one emulsifying polymer and at least 5% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight. of the composition. It also relates to its cosmetic use to reduce and / or limit and / or avoid the sweat flow of the skin of the face and / or body and to matify the skin and / or reduce the shine and / or the shine of the skin face and / or body. It also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the care and / or makeup of the skin of the face and / or body.

Description

The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and more particularly to a cosmetic composition useful in particular for reducing the sweat flow and / or reducing the shiny appearance of the skin of the face and / or the body. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the care and / or makeup of the skin, comprising applying to the surface of the skin an effective amount of such a composition. In particular, a cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of a gel, a foundation, a tinted cream or not, a cream-gel, a care cream or a sun product and may be available in a tube or in a pot, in the form of roll-on, sticks, pump bottles, aerosol or spray. The brightness of the skin may be related to a high secretion of sebum and / or sweat resulting from physical activity or weather conditions. Obtaining a matte effect of the skin is highly sought after by users with combination or oily skin, as well as for cosmetic compositions intended to be used in hot and humid climates. Reflections caused by an excess of sebum and / or sweat on the surface of the skin are indeed generally regarded as unsightly. A shiny skin also generally leads to less good hold of the makeup which thus tends to degrade during the day. It is known to use, as antiperspirant agents, aluminum salts or aluminum / zirconium salts, for example aluminum and zirconium hydrochlorides, but these salts have the drawback of being irritants and to be poorly supported especially by people with sensitive skin. In addition, their antiperspirant effectiveness is limited when used alone and their use at high concentrations to obtain good efficiency causes difficulties in formulation.

Deodorant active (s) and / or antiperspirant active (s) compositions intended to be applied to the skin and containing body powders such as talc are also known. . Powders making it possible to absorb sebum and thus to mattify the skin by mechanical effect are also known.

However, the powder compositions have several disadvantages. In fact, the powdery compositions consist of powders having different apparent densities and, during their handling and their storage, a segregation of the constituents is formed, the heavier ones gathering in the lower part of the container in which the composition is contained, and the lightest in the upper part.

Thus, the pulverulent composition taken by the consumer at the beginning of use of the product can be very volatile and a significant amount of product can be lost. The powders also tend to be sensitive to ambient humidity, to agglomerate and to leave on the skin and / or clothing white marks.

In addition, the compositions in powder form emit dust during their handling and may therefore be harmful, toxic or even irritating to the nasal cavity, mouth, throat, and lungs. There is therefore a need to prepare compositions which are both stable and provide good matifying and / or antiperspirant efficacy. It is also sought that these compositions additionally have a sensation of comfort and sensory pleasure on the skin, in particular freshness, easy spreading, rapid penetration into the skin, softness, lubricity and / or lightness. textures. There is also a need to produce compositions capable of imparting a highly powdered skin finish and which leave no white marks on the application either on the skin or on the textile. The Applicant has surprisingly discovered the possibility of producing an aqueous gel or gel-cream comprising a high level of starch, at least one emulsifying polymer and ethanol, which meets these needs. Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium at least 10% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one emulsifying polymer and at least 5% by weight of ethanol relative to to the total weight of the composition. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a non-toxic medium that can be applied to the skin, the lips, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails which has a color, a smell and pleasant touch and that does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to divert the consumer to use this composition comprising such a support. A composition according to the invention is intended for topical application.

A composition according to the invention has the advantage of having good safety and good cosmetic properties, that is to say a homogeneous texture, light and pleasant to the application. In addition, it is stable over time. In the context of the invention, it is considered that a composition is stable if no change in its macroscopic, microscopic appearance and its physicochemical characteristics (pH, viscosity) is observed after storage at room temperature at 40 ° C and at 45 ° C for a period of two months. A cosmetic composition according to the invention also has the advantage not only of absorbing water present in sweat (or perspiration), but also oily substances, such as sebum, exuded by the skin, without causing a impression of desiccation. Thus, a composition according to the invention is stable while providing a good matifying and antiperspirant efficacy.

In addition to a sensation of comfort and sensory pleasure on the skin, in particular freshness and softness, a composition according to the invention spreads easily on the skin, and penetrates quickly. Another advantage of a composition according to the invention is that it confers a highly powdered skin finish without leaving white marks when applied to the skin or the textile placed in contact with the treated skin. A composition according to the invention, although usable by any consumer, more particularly meets the requirements of consumers living in countries with a hot and humid climate for a large part of the year. These countries include those in Southeast Asia and Latin America, as well as India.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment method for the care and / or makeup of the skin of the face and / or the body, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the skin. According to another aspect, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention, for reducing and / or limiting and / or avoiding the sweat flow of the skin of the face and / or the body. According to yet another aspect, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for mattifying the skin and / or for reducing the shine and / or shine of the skin of the face and / or the body. .

STARCH The size of the starch particles may vary from 1 to 100 microns, preferably from 2 to 50 microns and more preferably from 5 to 30 microns.

Starches useful in the present invention are, for example, corn starch, potato starch, tapioca starch, rice starch, wheat starch, and cassava starch. . A modified starch is a starch which has been modified by methods known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, esterification, etherification, oxidation, acid hydrolysis, crosslinking, or enzymatic conversion. . Nonlimiting examples of modified starch include aluminum octenylsuccinateamidon, octenylsuccinate-sodium starch, octenylsuccinate-calcium starch, diamidon phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch, and sodium glycolate starch. In a preferred embodiment, the starch that is suitable for the invention is a modified starch or not and is chosen from a corn starch, a potato starch, a tapioca starch, a rice starch, a starch of wheat, cassava starch, octenylsuccinate-aluminum starch, octenylsuccinate-sodium starch, octenylsuccinate-calcium starch, diamidon phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch, sodium glycolate starch and mixtures thereof, and preferably corn starch. In a particular embodiment, the starch is a starch octenyl succinate, in particular aluminum, the starch being corn, wheat or rice. The product proposed by AKZO NOBEL under the name DRY FLO PLUS can be cited in particular. In another particular embodiment, the starch suitable for the invention is in the form of starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY-FLO by the company National Starch. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the starches are in particular chosen from unmodified starch powders such as corn starch. The starch suitable for the invention is present in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. EMULSIFYING POLYMERS For the purposes of the invention, the term "emulsifying polymer" is intended to denote a polymer having amphiphilic properties, that is to say having at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part. . Hydrophilic groups and hydrophobic groups are well known to those skilled in the art.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" denotes a compound comprising at least two repeating units, in particular at least five repeating units. An emulsifying polymer may in particular be a polymer derived from acrylic acid and / or at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) unit. Polymers Derived from Acrylic Acid (Pemulen and Carbopol Type) The emulsifying polymer (s) according to the invention may be chosen from acrylic acid derivatives. These polymers comprise: from 80 to 99 mol% of acrylic acid (AA) acid unit of the following formula (5): ## STR2 ## in which X + is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or ammonium ion; and from 1 to 20 mol%, and preferably from 1 to 15 mol% of unit of the following formula (6): R 1 CH 2 (6) R 4 in which, R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical linear or branched C1-C6 (preferably methyl), A denotes an ester or amide group or an oxygen atom and R4 denotes a linear or branched alkyl having m carbon atoms with m ranging from 6 to 30, preferably from 10 to 25. Preferred acrylic acid-derived amphiphilic polymers according to the present invention include: the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name of Aculyn 22® by Rohm and Haas, the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid and laureth-25 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 25® by the company Rohm and Haas, uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid and from beheneth-25 thacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 28® by the company Rohm and Haas, - the crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid and vinyl neodecanoate, sold under the name Aculyn 38® by the company Rohm and Haas, the crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 88® by the company Rohm and Haas, the crosslinked copolymers of alkyl-Cio-C30 acrylate and (meth) acrylic acid, such as Pemulen TR1® and TR2® sold by the company Lubrizol, - the crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and vinyl iso-decanoate, sold under the Stabylen 30® denomination by the company 3V, - crosslinked copolymers obtained from (meth) acrylic acid and C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate, sold under the name Carbopol ETD 2020® and Carbopol 1382® by the company Lubrizol, the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from r of (meth) acrylic acid and steareth-20 itaconate, sold under the name Structure 2001® by the company National Starch, - the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid and itaconate ceteth-20, sold under the name Structure 3001® by the company National Starch, - the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid, aminoacrylate and C10-C30 alkyl PEG 20 itaconate, sold under the name of Structure Plus® by the company National Starch, - the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid, methylacrylate and dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated alcohol, sold under the name Viscophobe DB i000® by Amerchol.

The polymers derived from acrylic acid is in particular an uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth) acrylic acid, methylacrylate and dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated alcohol. Preferably, said emulsifying polymer is chosen from polymers derived from acrylic acid, and in particular crosslinked copolymers of alkyl-Cio-C30 acrylate and (meth) acrylic acid, such as Pemulen TR1 ° and TR2® sold by the company Novéon. Amphiphilic polymers containing at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) unit Amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) unit that can be used in the present invention, also called simply "amphiphilic AMPS polymers" in the present invention. subsequently comprise both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part comprising at least one fatty chain. The fatty chain present in said amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may preferably comprise from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 7 to 22 carbon atoms. The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention are especially chosen from amphiphilic polymers of at least one acrylamido-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) monomer and at least one ethylenically unsaturated comonomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part having from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 7 to 22 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention generally have a molecular weight in weight ranging from 50,000 to 10,000,000 g / mol, in particular from 100,000 to 8,000,000 g / mol and even more particularly from 100,000 to 100,000,000 g / mol. 7,000,000 g / mol.

They can be crosslinked or uncrosslinked. When the amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the olefinically polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of the polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether and ethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate. or tetraethylene glycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis-acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane-diallylether, (meth) allyl acrylate, the allyl ethers of alcohols of the series of sugars, or other allylou vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and the allylic esters of the phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or the mixtures of these compounds. The crosslinking agents may especially be chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking can vary for example from 0.01 to 10 mol% and preferably from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer. The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may especially be chosen from AMPS random amphiphilic polymers modified by reaction with a n-monoalkylamine or a C6-C22 di-n-alkylamine such as those described in the patent application. WO 00/31154. An amphiphilic polymer that is suitable for the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their substituted alkyl derivatives or esters obtained with mono- or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures thereof. An amphiphilic polymer according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophobic comonomer with ethylenic unsaturation.

An amphiphilic polymer that is suitable for the invention may comprise at least one hydrophobic part chosen from linear, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, such as, for example, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl, oleyl, branched, for example isostearic or cyclic such as cyclododecane or adamantane. An amphiphilic AMPS polymer may also contain at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated comonomer comprising, for example: a fluorinated or alkylfluorinated C7-C18 radical (for example the group of formula - (CH2) 2- (CF2 9-CF3), a cholesteryl radical or a radical derived from cholesterol (for example cholesteryl hexanoate), an aromatic polycyclic group such as naphthalene or pyrene, a silicone or alkylsilicone or alkylfluorosilicone radical. These copolymers are described in particular in EP-A-750899, US-A-5089578 and in the following Yotaro Morishima publications: "Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures" Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336; - "Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2- (acrylamido) -2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 -36943704 "; "Solution properties of micelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332; Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2- (acrylamido) -2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem. 1999, 40 (2), 220-221. They are also described in documents EP 1 069 142, WO 02/44224, WO 02/44225, WO 02/44227, WO 02/44229, WO 02/44230, WO 02/44231, WO 02/44267, WO 02 / 44268, WO 02/44269, WO 02/44270, WO 02/44271, WO 02/43677, WO 02/43686, WO 02/43687, WO 02/43688, WO 02/43689, in the name of CLARIANT. A hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated comonomer of the invention may be chosen preferably from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (1) below: ## STR1 ## in which: Ra denotes a hydrogen atom; hydrogen, a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl; Y is 0 or NH; Rb denotes a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain having from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 7 to 22, and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. The hydrophobic radical Rb is chosen from linear C7-C22 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl, oleyl), branched (for example isostearic) or cyclic ( for example cyclododecane or adamantane); perfluorinated C 7 -C 18 alkyl radicals (for example the group of formula - (CH 2) 2- (CF 2) 9-CF 3); the cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol ester such as cholesteryl hexanoate; polycyclic aromatic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene. Among these radicals, linear and branched alkyl radicals are more particularly preferred. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic radical Rb may further comprise at least one alkylene oxide unit and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain. The polyoxyalkylene chain may preferably be composed of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and even more particularly consisting solely of ethylene oxide units. The number of moles of oxyalkylene units may generally vary from 1 to 30 moles and more preferably from 1 to 25 moles and even more preferably from 3 to 20 moles. Among these polymers, mention may be made of: - crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (Cg 16) alkyl (meth) acrylamide units or (C 8 -C 16) alkyl (meth) acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in EP-A-750 899; terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mol% of n- (C 6 -C 18) alkylacrylamide units, relative to polymer, such as those described in US-A5,089,578; uncrosslinked copolymers of partially or totally neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl or n-octadecyl methacrylate, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above; crosslinked or uncrosslinked copolymers of partially or totally neutralized AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above. Amphiphilic AMPS polymers which may be mentioned are copolymers of completely neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and / or n-octadecyl methacrylate, as well as copolymers of AMPS and n- dodecylmethacrylamide, uncrosslinked and crosslinked.

Mention may be made more particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked amphiphilic AMPS copolymers consisting of: (a) 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) units of the following formula (2): in which X is a proton, a metal cation alkali, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion; (b) and of units of the following formula (3): ## STR2 ## in which n and p, independently of one of the compounds of formula (I) and another designates a number of moles and ranges from 0 to 30, preferably from 1 to 25 and more preferably from 3 to 20 with the proviso that n + p is less than or equal to 30, preferably less than 25 and even more preferably less than 20; Ra denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl and Rc denotes a linear or branched alkyl having from 7 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. In the formula (2), the cation X denotes more particularly sodium or ammonium. Among the monomers of formula (3), mention may be made of: esters of (meth) acrylic acid and C 10 -C 18 polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol, such as the product GENAPOL C-080® sold by Clariant, the esters of (meth) acrylic acid and oxo-fatty alcohol in polyoxyethylenated CiI at 8 EO, such as the product GENAPOL UID-080® sold by Clariant, the esters of (meth) acrylic acid and of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated C12-C14 at 7 OE such as the product GENAPOL LA-070® sold by CLARIANT, - the esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C12-C14 at 11 EO as the product GENAPOL LA -110® sold by Clariant, - esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 8 EO such as the product GENAPOL T-080® sold by Clariant, - esters of (meth) acrylic acid and C16-C18 to 15 EO polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol such as the GENAPOL T-150® product sold by the Company CLARIANT, esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 11 EO such as the product GENAPOL T-110 sold by CLARIANT, esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 10 to 20 EO such as the product GENAPOL T-200® sold by Clariant, - the esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 to 25 EO as the product GENAPOL T-250® sold by Clariant; esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C18-C22 at 25 EO and / or polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 at 25; OE. In particular, we will choose: i. those uncrosslinked for which p = 0, n = 7 or 25, Ra denotes a methyl and Rc represents a mixture of C12-C14 alkyl or C16-C18, ii. those crosslinked for which p = 0, n = 8 or 25, Ra denotes a methyl and Rc represents a mixture of C16-C18 alkyl. These polymers are described and synthesized in the application EP1069142. These particular amphiphilic AMPS polymers can be obtained according to the conventional methods of radical polymerization in the presence of one or more initiators such as, for example, azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, 2,2-azobis hydrochloride. [2-amidinopropane] (ABAH = 2,2-Azo-Bis- [2-Amidinopropane] Hydrochloride), organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, tert-butyl hydroperoxide, compounds inorganic peroxides such as potassium or ammonium persulfate, or H 2 O 2 optionally in the presence of reducing agents. These amphiphilic AMPS polymers may in particular be obtained by radical polymerization in tert-butanol medium in which they precipitate. By using precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol, it is possible to obtain a particularly favorable particle size distribution of the polymer for its uses. The reaction may be conducted at a temperature between 0 and 150 ° C, preferably between 10 and 100 ° C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure. It can also be carried out under an inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen.

The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may preferably be partially or completely neutralized with a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia or an organic base such as mono-, di- or tri-ethanolamine, a aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They can in particular be totally or almost completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 80%. The molar concentration in% of the units of formula (2) and units of formula (3) in the AMPS amphiphilic polymers according to the invention may vary depending on the desired cosmetic application, for example the nature of the emulsion (oil-in-water or water-in-oil) and rheological properties of the desired formulation. It may for example vary between 0.1 and 99.9 mol%. The amphiphilic AMPS polymers of the invention which are not very hydrophobic will be more suitable for the thickening and / or the stabilization of the oil-in-water emulsions. The molar proportion of units of formula (3) can then vary preferably from 0.1 to 50 mol%, more particularly from 1 to 25 mol% and even more particularly from 3 to 10 mol%. The more hydrophobic AMPS amphiphilic polymers according to the invention will be more suitable for the thickening and / or the stabilization of the water-in-oil emulsions. The molar proportion of units of formula (3) may then preferably vary from 50.1 to 99.9 mol%, more particularly from 60 to 95 mol% and even more particularly from 65 to 90 mol%. The distribution of the monomers in the AMPS amphiphilic polymers according to the invention can be, for example, alternating, block (including multiblock) or any. By way of indication and without being limiting, mention may be made in particular of the copolymer of AMPS and of ethoxylated C 12 -C 14 alcohol methacrylate (non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from Genapol LA-070 and AMPS) (CTFA name) : Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Laureth-7 methacrylate copolymer) marketed under the name ARTISTOFLEX LNC® by the company Clariant, the copolymer of AMPS and ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25 EO) (crosslinked copolymer with trimethylolpropane triacrylate, obtained from Genapol T-250 and AMPS) (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) marketed under the name ARISTOFLEX HMS® by Clariant, Aristoflex SNC (AMPS copolymer / alcohol methacrylate Cm / Cm ethoxylated ( 8 moles EP 80/20, CTFA name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer) and Aristoflex HMB® (AMPS copolymer / ethoxylated behenyl methacrylate (25 OE), r cross-linked by trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The emulsifying polymer or polymers which are suitable for the invention are generally present in the composition in an amount of from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. relative to the total weight of the composition, and still more preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ETHANOL A composition according to the invention comprises ethanol, a short-chain monohydric alcohol which is soluble in water. Ethanol is present in an amount of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and still more preferably from 8% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Ethanol is included in the aqueous phase as detailed below. ADDITIONAL LOADS The composition according to the invention may comprise additional charges. The additional fillers suitable for the invention are used essentially to obtain a dullness effect. They are chosen most often according to their good properties of absorption of oils and / or their ability to diffuse the light effectively. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filler" denotes any material consisting of particles, spherical or non-spherical, porous or non-porous, non-soluble within the compositions according to the invention. Such additional fillers may be a mineral powder or an organic powder. The particle or particles of one or more inorganic compounds used in the cosmetic composition may have different shapes, for example a form of spheres, solid or hollow, flakes, needles or platelets and preferably they are substantially spherical. More specifically, the additional fillers that are suitable for the invention may be chosen from: - silica powders, - polyamide powders (nylon®), - acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate, poly methyl methacrylate ethylene glycol dimethyl methacrylate, allyl polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; the elastomeric silicone powders, in particular obtained by polymerization of organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon atom and an organopolysiloxane comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups (especially two vinyl groups) in the presence of platinum catalyst; talc, boron nitride, clays, perlites, aerogels particles, and mixtures thereof.

The additional filler may be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treating agent. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, waxes and mixtures thereof. The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine. As a representative and non-limiting example of additional charges that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of the charges below. Usable silicas can be natural and untreated. The silicas proposed under the names SILLITIN N85®, SILLITIN N87®, SILLITIN N82®, SILLITIN V85® and SILLITIN V88® by the company HOFFMANN MINERAL can thus be mentioned. They can be fumed.

The fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: (a) trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (2nd edition, 1995). ; (b) dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). As silica powder, mention may be made more particularly of: the porous silica microspheres sold under the name SILICA BEADS® SB-700 by the company MYOSHI; "SUNSPHERE H51", "SUNSPHERE H33" 20 by the company ASAHI GLASS; the amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name SA Sunsphere H33, SA Sunsphere H53 by ASAHI GLASS, the microspheres of precipitated silica, for example, coated with mineral wax such as polyethylene, and in particular sold under the name ACEMATT® OK 412 by the company EVONIK DEGUSSA. As nylon powder, mention may be made of the nylon powder sold under the name ORGASOL 4000 by the company ATOCHEM. As the acrylic polymer powder, mention may be made of: the polymethyl methacrylate powders sold under the name COVABEAD® LH85 by the company Wackherr; the poly methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders sold under the name DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE® SKIN OIL ADSORBER by the company Dow Corning; GANZPEARL® GMP-0820 by the company GANZ CHEMICAL; allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders sold under the name POLY-PORE L200 and POLY-PORE E200 by AMCOL Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.; the ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 from the company Dow Corning.

The silicone elastomers are in particular partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E -506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES, from SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC. As the elastomeric silicone powder, mention may be made of the powders sold under the names "Trefil® Powder E-505C" and "Trefil® Powder E-506C" by the company Dow Corning.

As silicone powder, mention may be made of crosslinked poly dimethylsiloxane gum beads coated with silsesquioxane resin, especially sold under the name KSP100 by Shin Etsu, silicone resin powders in the form of a rugby ball such as in particular the product sold under the name Denkmation NLK-602 from TAKEMOTO.

There may be mentioned particles of boron nitride, such as Saint-Gobain Ceramics PUHP1030L, Carborundum UHP-1010, Merck's Ronaflair Extender, Sensient's COVALUMINE ATLAS WHITE AS, Boroneige 601 from ESK, and Saint Gobains Ceramics PUHP3008. perlite is a natural glass of volcanic origin, light gray or black gloss, resulting from the rapid cooling of the lava and which is in the form of small particles resembling the pearl. When heated above 800 ° C.

The perlite particles used according to the invention are in particular commercially available from WORLD MINERALS EUROPE under the trade name Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550 or Perlite P2040. These particles are sold as mattifying agents for paints. They are in the form of a white powder having a crystalline silica content of less than 0.1% by weight. Preferably, the perlite particles according to the invention have a particle size distribution such that at least 50% of the particles are less than 25, preferably less than 1.1.m. In addition, they preferentially have a particle size distribution such that 90% by weight of the particles have a size of less than 55 μm and preferably less than 40 μm. It is furthermore preferred that 90% by weight of the particles have a size greater than 5 μm. Its "ultra-absorbent" or "blotting effect" also makes it an ideal component for cosmetic products, creams, gels and deodorants in particular. When present in the composition of the invention, the perlite may be in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Clays are already well known products per se, which are described for example in the book "Clay Mineralogy, S. Caillère, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd edition 1982, Masson".

The clays are silicates containing a cation which may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations and their mixtures. Examples of such products include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, as well as the family of vermiculites, stevensite, chlorites . The clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays are used which are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin fibers such as the hair. The clay may be selected from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the clay is a bentonite or a hectorite. The clays can be chosen from organophilic clays. The organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the organophilic clays according to the invention are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines.

As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone® 3, Bentone® 38, Bentone® 38V by Elementis, Tixogel® VP by United catalyst, Claytone® 34, Claytone® 40, Claytone® XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone® 27V by Elementis, Tixogel® LG by United Catalyst, Claytone® AF, Claytone® APA by Southern Clay and quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone® HT, Claytone® PS by Southern Clay. In particular, the organophilic clay is chosen from modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with C10-C12 fatty acid ammonium chloride, especially distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and stearyl chloride of benzyl dimethyl ammonium. . The clays are chosen in particular from montmorillonites and kaolin. Preferably, the particles have a number average size ranging from 50 nm to 350 microns, better still from 100 nm to 100 microns, and even more preferentially from 0.5 to 100 microns. Aerogels are ultra light porous materials. The first aerogels were made by Kristler in 1932. They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. Other types of drying also make it possible to obtain porous materials from gel, namely cryodessiccation consisting of solidifying the gel at low temperature and then subliming the solvent and drying by evaporation. The materials thus obtained are called cryogels and xerogels respectively. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990. The airgel particles according to the present invention are hydrophobic airgel.

By "hydrophobic airgel particles" is meant any particle of the airgel type having a water absorption capacity WET POINT less than 0.1 ml / g is less than 10 g of water per 100 g of particle. The Wet Point is the amount of water that must be added to 1 g of particle to obtain a homogeneous paste. This method derives directly from the method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. The measurements are made in the same way via the Wet Point and the Flow Point, respectively having the following definition: WET POINT: mass expressed in grams per 100 g of product corresponding to the production of a homogeneous paste during addition of a solvent to a powder. The WET POINT is measured according to the following protocol: Material used Glass plate (25 x 25 mm) Spatula (wooden handle and metal part (15 x 2,7mm) Bristle brush Balance The glass plate is placed on the weighing 1 g of airgel The beaker containing the solvent and the sampling device is deposited on the balance The solvent is gradually added to the powder by regularly kneading the assembly (every 3 to 4 drops) at the same time. The spatula is used to record the mass of solvent required to obtain the Wet Point.The average hydrophobic aerogels used according to the present invention may be organic, inorganic or organic-inorganic hybrids. may be based on polyurethane resins, resorcinol-formaldehyde, polyfurfuranol, cresol-formaldehyde, phenol-furfuranol, polybutadiene, melamine-formaldehyde, phenol-furfural, polyimides, polyacrylates , polymethacrylates, polyolefins, polystyrenes, polyacrylonitriles, phenol-formaldehyde, polyvinyl alcohol, dialdehydes, polycyanurates, epoxies, celluloses, cellulose derivatives, chitosan, agar, agarose, alginate, starches, and mixtures thereof.

Aerogels based on organic-inorganic hybrids are also envisaged, for example silica-PMMA, silica-chitosan and silica-polyether. Patent applications US2005 / 0192366 and WO 2007126410 describe such hybrid organic-inorganic materials.

The hydrophobic airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 200 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 / g, and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) of less than 1500 μm and preferably ranging from 1 to 30 μm, preferably from 5 to 25 μm, better still from 5 to 20 μm and better still better from 5 to 15 jam. The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration. The sizes of the airgel particles according to the invention can be measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 2000 commercial particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory.

This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μm, better still 5 at 15 jam. The hydrophobic airgel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density p ranging from 0.02 g / cm 3 to 0.10 g / cm 3, preferably from 0.02 g / cm 3 to 0.08 g / cm 3. . In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, called the packed density: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated test tube; then the specimen is placed on the STAV 2003 device from STAMPF VOLUMETER; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of compacted powder is measured directly on the test piece. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g).

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume Sv ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3, preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2. m2 / cm3. The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: Sv = Sm. where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm 3 and Sm is the specific surface area per unit of mass, expressed in m2 / g, as defined above. Preferably, the hydrophobic airgel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured with WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 12. ml / g.

The absorption capacity measured at Wet Point, and denoted by Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below: A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil in the powder, mixing is carried out with a spatula and oil is added until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this moment, the oil is added one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

The oil intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m. According to one particular embodiment, the airgel particles used are inorganic and more particularly hydrophobic silica airgel particles having the properties set out above. Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (in particular by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990. The hydrophobic silica aerogels used according to the present invention are preferably aerogels. of silylated silica (INCI name silica silylate).

Hydrophobic silica is understood to mean any silica the surface of which is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalizing the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference can be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725. Hydrophobic silica aerogels particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups will be used in particular. Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention include, for example, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260® (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size. about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Mention may also be made of the aerogels marketed by Cabot under the references AEROGEL® TLD 201, AEROGEL® OGD 201 and AEROGEL® TLD 203, 20 ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100 and ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1200. More particularly, the airgel marketed will be used. under the name VM-2270® (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g . The airgel marketed under the name Enova® Aerogel MT 1100 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company CABOT, whose particles have an average size ranging from 2-25 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. The hydrophobic aerogel particles, when present, represent from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the additional charge that is suitable for the invention is chosen from airgel, perlite and their mixtures. In general, the additional fillers that are suitable for the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight. by weight, and most preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. GALENIC The composition of the invention is generally in the form of an aqueous gel or a gel-cream. The compositions according to the invention may also be in the form of more or less thick creams, and they may or may not flow under their own weight depending on their viscosity.

The compositions according to the invention may also be in the form of lotions, creams or fluid gels distributed in aerosol spray, pump bottle or roll-on, in the form of thick creams distributed in tubes or in a grid; in the form of sticks (sticks) or potted, and contain in this respect the ingredients generally used in this type of products and well known to those skilled in the art.

Aqueous Phase The composition according to the invention may comprise an amount of aqueous phase equal to or greater than 40% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 45%, or even 50% by weight, this amount ranging for example from 40 to 40% by weight. 99% by weight and preferably from 50 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may comprise a quantity of water equal to or greater than 35% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 40%, or even 45% by weight, this amount ranging for example from 35% to 95% by weight. % by weight and preferably from 45% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a conventional manner, the aqueous phase may contain, in addition to water, one or more water-soluble solvents chosen from polyols (or polyhydric alcohols), water-soluble lower alcohols (s) and mixtures thereof. By lower alcohol is meant an alcohol having 1 to 8 carbon atoms. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerine; glycols such as pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol and polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol; sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, sucrose; and their mixtures. As lower alcohols, there may be mentioned for example ethanol as mentioned above, isopropanol, butanol and mixtures thereof. When present in the composition of the invention, the solvent (s) may be in an amount ranging from 5 to 60% by weight, preferably from 6 to 50% by weight and better still from 8 to 20% by weight. by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the desired property for the composition of the invention. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the aqueous phase contains at least one lower alcohol, which may be in particular ethanol. The amount of lower alcohol such as ethanol may range, for example, from 5 to 30% by weight and preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the composition is skin compatible and is preferably 5 to 7.5 and more preferably 5.5 to 7.

Grime phase A composition according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase (or oily phase). The nature of the fatty phase of the emulsion is not critical. The fatty phase may thus consist of all the non-waxy fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields, it notably comprises at least one oil, a fatty substance that is liquid at 25 ° C. As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas RaCOORb and RaORb in which Ra represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and Rb represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl stearate -2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; substantially linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as oil of Parléame; liquid fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912. As fluorinated oils, mention may also be made of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC PC1 °" and "FLUTEC PC3 °" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name "MSX 4518®" by the company 3M and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a substantially linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of the oils mentioned above is understood to mean any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. When present in the composition of the invention, the oily phase may be in an amount at most equal to 10%, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 9% by weight and better still from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIVES / ACTIVE INGREDIENTS The composition according to the invention may also comprise any adjuvant or additive normally used in the fields in question and in particular in the cosmetics field. Among the conventional adjuvants, mention may be made in particular of preservatives; sequestering agents (EDTA); antioxidants; the perfumes; coloring matters such as soluble dyes, pigments and nacres; tensor agents; whitening agent, exfoliating agents; solar filters, organic or physical; polymers; electrolytes; non-polymeric emulsifiers; thickeners and gelling agents. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. As active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of water-soluble or liposoluble vitamins, derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and their mixtures; antiseptics; anti-bacterial assets; anti-inflammatory agents; antisebrohefactive assets; keratolytic active agents; desquamating agents; antimicrobials; slimming agents; optical brighteners; mattifying fillers other than the aforementioned fillers; deodorant active agents such as bacteriostatic agents or other bactericidal agents; odor absorbers; antiperspirant actives; and any suitable active for the final purpose of the composition, and mixtures thereof. The amount of assets depends on the purpose. The active agent (s) may for example be present in a concentration ranging from 0.001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additive (s) of the composition according to the invention and its or their quantity, by routine operations, in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially impaired by the envisaged addition.

The composition of the invention is intended for topical application. It is also understood that according to the active ingredient used in a composition according to the invention, other benefits can be brought to the consumer. The additional benefits include a "whitening / fairness" effect, ie a whitening effect through the action of whitening active ingredients such as vitamin B3 and vitamin CG, an "anti-darkening" effect. With an appropriate UV filter system, the control of oily skin with the incorporation of keratolytic active ingredients, for example salicylic acid. According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation. According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a make-up composition for the skin and in particular the face. It can be an eyeshadow or a blush. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a lip product. According to another preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a skincare composition for the body or face, in particular the face. Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art. Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the opposite is specified. Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive terms unless otherwise specified.

The following examples are presented for illustrative and not limiting of the invention. The compounds are, as the case may be, listed in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook). Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass.

EXAMPLES Example 1: Gel-cream Phases Ingredients% by weight relative to the total weight of composition PHASE I Water Qsp. Butylene Glycol 5% Glycerin 5% Preservatives 0.50% PHASE II ACRYLA'1ES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (Pemulen® TR-1 Polymer marketed by LUBRIZOL) 0.70% PHASE III Triethanolamine 0.30% Water 5 % PHASE IV Dicapiylyl ether 5% PHASE V Ethanol 8% PHASE VI 13% maize starch (B® corn starch marketed by the company ROQUETTE) PHASE VII Assets, perfume 5% Procedure: 1. Phase I is well homogenized. 2. In well-homogenized phase I, phase II is dispersed. 3. Phase II is neutralized by adding phase 4. After swelling of the gel, phase IV is added to the resulting mixture. 5. At room temperature, the phases V, VI and VII are added to the mixture obtained. The composition obtained, non-pulverulent, is easy and pleasant to apply to the skin of the face and body and provides a feeling of freshness during application. In addition, the composition provides a long-lasting matifying effect associated with an antiperspirant effect.

A lightening effect (fairness) is also visible after 5 days of application.

EXAMPLE 2 Gel-cream Phases Ingredients% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition PHASE I Water Qsp. Glycerine 5% Butylene Glycol 5% Preservatives 0.50% Disodium EDTA 0.20% Inulin Lauryl Carbamate 0.15% (INUTEC SP10 marketed by BENEO BIO BASED CHEMICALS) PHASE II Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3% Octocrylene 3% Octylsalicylate 5% PHASE III ACRYLA'IES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (Pemulen® TR-1 Polymer marketed by LUBRIZOL) 0.70% PHASE IV Water 2% Sodium hydroxide 0.07% PHASE V Ethanol 8% PHASE VI Corn starch 13 % (Corn starch B® marketed by Roquette) Assets, perfume 3% Procedure: 1. Phase II is heated to 75-80 ° C. 2. Phase I is gently poured onto phase II. 3. Phases I and II are mixed. 4. Once the emulsion is formed, phase III is dispersed for about 1 hour. 5. Then, the mixture is neutralized with phase IV. 6. At room temperature, the phases V and VI are added to the mixture obtained. The composition obtained, non-pulverulent, is easy and pleasant to apply to the skin of the face and body and provides a feeling of freshness during application. In addition, the composition provides a long lasting matifying effect associated with an antiperspirant effect and a protective effect against UV.

A lightening effect (fairness) is visible after 5 days of application.

Claims (12)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium at least 10% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one emulsifying polymer and at least 5% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition. 2. Composition according to claim 1 in the form of an aqueous gel or a gel-cream. A composition according to claim 1 or claim 2 wherein the starch is modified or not and is selected from corn starch, potato starch, tapioca starch, rice starch, starch of wheat, a cassava starch, o -enylsuccinate-ami don aluminum, octenylsuccinate-sodium starch, octenylsuccinate-calcium starch, diamidon phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch, sodium glycolate starch and mixtures thereof, and preferably corn starch. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the starch is present in an amount of at least 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said emulsifying polymer is selected from among polymers derived from acrylic acid, and in particular crosslinked copolymers of alkyl-Cio-C30 acrylate and acid. (meth) acrylic acid. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the emulsifying polymer is present in an amount of from 0.01% to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ethanol is present in an amount of at least 8% by weight based on the total weight of the composition and more preferably 8% to 30% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising an oily phase present in an amount at most equal to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.5% by weight. % to 9% by weight and better still from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional filler selected from airgel, perlite, and mixtures thereof. 10. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, for reducing and / or limiting and / or avoiding the sweat flow of the skin of the face and / or the body. 11. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, for mattifying the skin and / or reducing the shine and / or shine of the skin of the face and / or body. 12. Cosmetic treatment process for the care and / or makeup of the skin of the face and / or body, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9.15 is applied to the skin.