FR2973233A1 - Cosmetic process, useful for filtering UV rays, comprises applying, on a surface of a keratinous material, preferably skin and/or hair, a cosmetic composition comprising betaine salicylate in a medium - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic process for filtering UV rays, comprises applying, on a surface of a keratinous material, preferably skin and/or hair, a cosmetic composition comprising betaine salicylate in a cosmetically acceptable medium. An independent claim is included for a composition comprising betaine salicylate in the cosmetically acceptable medium and additional UV filters.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for filtering ultraviolet rays comprising the application of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, betaine salicylate. B 11-0802EN 1 Cosmetic process for filtering UV radiation using a betaine derivative on the surface of a keratin material. The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of betaine salicylate as an ultraviolet radiation filtering agent. The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least betaine salicylate and one or more additional UV filters.

It is known that the luminous radiations of wavelength lying between 280 nm and 400 nm allow the browning of the human epidermis, and that the wavelength rays more particularly between 280 and 320 nm, known under the name UV -B, cause redness of the skin that can hinder the development of natural tanning. For these aesthetic reasons, there is a constant demand for control means of this natural tan to thereby control the color of the skin: it is therefore necessary to filter the UV-B radiation.

It is also known that the UV-A rays, of wavelength between 320 and 400 nm, which cause browning of the skin, are capable of inducing an alteration thereof, particularly in the case of a skin sensitive or skin continuously exposed to solar radiation. UV-A rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature cutaneous aging. Thus, for these cosmetic and aesthetic reasons, such as the preservation of the natural elasticity of the skin, for example, more and more people want to control the effect of UV-A on their skin. It is therefore desirable to also filter the UV-A radiation.

In order to preserve the keratin materials, in particular the skin or the hair, against these effects due to UV radiation, it is generally possible to use antisolar compositions, comprising organic screening agents, active in the UV-A and active in the UV-B. .

There are many cosmetic products comprising one or more inorganic and / or organic UV filters. There is therefore a real need to provide compounds capable of filtering ultraviolet radiation effectively.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the use of betaine salicylate has the advantage of effectively absorbing ultraviolet radiation and of being easy to use in cosmetic compositions. The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for filtering ultraviolet rays comprising the application to a surface of a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the hair, of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, less betaine salicylate. The subject of the present invention is, in particular, the cosmetic use of betaine salicylate as an ultraviolet radiation filtering agent. Advantageously, said salicylate is contained in a composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium. In other words, the invention relates to the use in cosmetics of betaine salicylate as a UV filter. Finally, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least betaine salicylate and one or more additional UV filters.

Other objects and features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. By "cosmetically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, a medium that has a pleasant color, odor and feel and that does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness). , likely to divert the consumer from using this composition.

By "keratin material" is meant the skin (face, body, lips, scalp), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, mucous membranes. According to the invention, the term "UV radiation filtering" is generally understood to mean any action of a compound or of a mixture of a compound or a composition containing them which, by mechanisms known per se of absorption and / or of reflection and / or diffusion of the UV-A and / or UV-B radiation, makes it possible to prevent, or at least limit, bringing said radiation into contact with a keratin material on which this or these compounds or this composition have been applied. In other words, these compounds can be organic UV absorber filters or diffusing mineral pigments and / or UV reflectors, as well as their mixtures. According to the invention, the term "UV radiation filtering agent" is generally understood to mean any compound or mixture of compounds or compositions containing them which, by mechanisms known per se of absorption and / or reflection and / or diffusion UV-A and / or UV-B radiation makes it possible to prevent, or at least limit, bringing said radiation into contact with a keratin material (skin, hair,) on which this or these compounds or this composition have been applied . Betaine salicylate has the following structure: Betaine salicylate is sold under the name GENTIFOL SA by the company ARCH CHEMICAL.

In particular, betaine salicylate makes it possible to absorb UV-B ultraviolet rays, that is to say that this compound is capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays of wavelength ranging from 280 to 320 nm, with absorption maxima ranging from 280 to 310 nm, and especially around 304 nm. Thus, betaine salicylate makes it possible in particular to filter ultraviolet UV-B radiation. Betaine salicylate may be used in cosmetic compositions for the treatment of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and / or care of the skin, lips and / or hair, and / or for makeup of the skin and / or lips. Betaine salicylate may be present in the cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 1 to 20% by weight and even more preferably ranging from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise one or more additional organic or inorganic UV screening agents that are active in UV-A and / or UV-B that are water-soluble or liposoluble or that are insoluble in the cosmetic solvents commonly used in order to strengthen protection against UV. The additional UV filter (s) are different from betaine salicylate. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional filters and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition or additions envisaged. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least betaine salicylate and one or more additional UV filters. The additional UV filter (s) may be organic or inorganic filters.

The additional organic screening agents are especially chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives and anthranilics; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives, benzylidenecamphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; 13,13-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; phenyl benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives including those cited in US5624663; phenyl benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives; bisbenzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in Applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981; merocyanine derivatives such as those described in WO04006878, WO05058269 and WO06032741 and mixtures thereof. As examples of organic UV filters, mention may be made of those referred to below under the name INCI Derivatives of dibenzoylmethane Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoylmethane, sold under the trade name "PARSOL 1789" by the company DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS Acid Derivatives para-aminobenzoic acid: PABA, Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name "ESCALOL 507" by ISP, Glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold under the name "Uvinul P25" by BASF, 5 salicylic derivatives : Homosalate sold under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries, ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN 10 OS" by SYMRISE, dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name "DIPSAL" by SCHER, TEA Salicylate, sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS" by SYMRISE, 15 cinnamic derivatives: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL MCX" by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS., 20 Metals Isopropyl Hoxy Cinnamate Isoamyl Methoxy Cinnamate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN E 1000" by SYMRISE, Cinoxate, DEA Methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate

Derivatives of (3, (3-diphenylacrylate Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N539" by BASF, Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N35" by BASF,

Derivatives of benzophenone: Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name "UVINUL 400" by BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "Uvinul D50" by BASF, Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name "Uvinul M40" by BASF, Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "UVINUL MS40" by BASF, Benzophenone-5 Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay, Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV- 24 "by American Cyanamid, Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name" UVINUL DS-49 "by BASF, Benzophenone-12 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoate benzene sold under the trade name" UVINUL A + "or as a mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name" UVINUL A + B "by BASF, 1,1 '- (1,4-piperazinediyl) bis [1- [2- [4- (diethylamino)) 2-hydroxybenzoyl] phenyl] methanone (CAS 919803-06-8)

Derivatives of benzylidene camphor 3-benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SD" by CHIMEX, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name "EUSOLEX 6300" by MERCK, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SL" by CHIMEX, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex, sulfonic acid terephthalylidene dicamphor manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex, Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex,

Derivatives of phenyl benzimidazole: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, disodium tetrasulfonate phenyl dibenzimidazole sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan AP" by SYMRISE, Derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole: Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name "Silatrizole" by RHODIA CHIMIE, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trade name "TINOSORB M" by CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS,

Triazine derivatives: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name "Tinosorb S" by Ciba Geigy, Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul T150" by BASF, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name "UVASORB HEB" by SIGMA 3V, 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris (4'-amino benzalmalonate dineopentyl) -s-triazine, 2,4- bis (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine 2,4-bis (n-butyl 4-aminobenzoate) -6 - [(3- { 1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl} propyl) amino] -s-triazine, the symmetrical triazine filters described in US Pat. No. 6,225,467 and WO2004 / 085412 (cf. and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM Inc. WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004) including 2,4,6-tris- (biphenyl) -1,3,5 -triazines (especially 2,4,6-tris (biphe nyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine) and 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, which is incorporated in the applications of Beiersdorf WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985.

Anthranilic Derivatives: Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan MA" by SYMRISE,

Imidazoline derivatives Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate,

Derivatives of benzalmalonate: Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL SLX" by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE

4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives: 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene

Benzoxazole derivatives 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred complementary organic screening agents are selected from: Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoylmethane Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate Homosalate which corresponds to homomenthyl salicylate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5 1,1 '- (1,4-piperazinediyl) bis [1- [2- [4- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxylbenzoyl] phenyl, n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate; ] -methanone 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3, 5-triazine 2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine 2,4,6-tris (diisobutyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine, 2,4-bis (Dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine 2,4-bis (4'-aminobenzoate) n-butyl) -6 - [(3- {1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl} propyl) amino] -s-triazine Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane Polysilicone- Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl) -phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine and mixtures thereof.

The complementary inorganic filters are chosen from coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments such as, for example, titanium oxide pigments (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and / or anatase form), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium which are all UV photoprotective agents well known per se. The pigments can be coated or uncoated. The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

In a known manner, the silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and essentially constituted by a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly bonded via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The term "silicones" also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkyl silanes. The silicones used for coating the pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from the group containing alkyl silanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes. Even more preferentially, the silicones are chosen from the group containing octyl trimethyl silane, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrogensiloxanes. Of course, the metal oxide pigments before their treatment with silicones, may have been treated with other surfactants, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof. The coated pigments are, for example, titanium oxides coated with: silica, such as the product "Sunveil" from the company IKEDA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO" from the company MERCK, silica and iron oxide such as that the product "SUNVEIL F" from the company IKEDA, - silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE and "Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia, - alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)" from ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4 of the company KEMIRA, aluminum alumina and stearate such as the product MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01 from the company TAYCA, the products Solaveil CT-10 W "," Solaveil CT 100 "and" Solaveil CT 200 "from the company UNIQEMA, - silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product" MT-100 AQ "from the company TAYCA, - alumina and aluminum aurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S" from TAYCA, - iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F" from TAYCA, - d ' zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR351" from the company TAYCA, silica-alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS "or" MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS "from TAYCA, - silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product" STT-30-DS "from TITAN KOGYO, - of silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195" from the company KEMIRA, or the product SMT-100 WRS from TAYCA, - alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S) "of the company ISHIHARA, or" UV TITAN M 262 "from the company KEMIRA, triethanolamine such as the product" STT-65 -S "from the company TITAN KOGYO, - stearic acid such as the product" TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C) "from the company ISHIHARA, - sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product" MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W "of the company TAYCA. Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are, for example, TiO 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane such as that sold under the trade name "T 805" by the company Degussa Silices, TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane such as that sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3" by CARDRE, anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane such as that sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES.

Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the WACKHER company under the name "Transparent titanium oxide PW", by the company MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR", by the company TOMEN under the name "ITS" and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ" pigments d uncoated zinc oxide, are for example: those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart; those marketed under the name "Nanox" by Elementis; those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies. The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those sold under the name Z-Cote HP1 by the company Sunsmart (dimethicone-coated ZnO); those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane); those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate); those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION ZN-30" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50" by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogensiloxane) ; those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane); those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100" by the company ISP (ZnO treated with alumina and dispersed in the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene / methicone copolymer mixture); those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alcohols benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate). Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold for example under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE" by the company RHONE POULENC. Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ," NANOGARD WCD 2006 ( FE 45R) ", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name" TY-220 "The coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names" NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN) "," NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556) "," NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345 "," NANOGARD FE 45 BL ", or by the company BASF under the name" TRANSPARENT IRON OXIDE ".Also may be mentioned mixtures of metal oxides , in particular of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, of which the titanium dioxide and silica-coated cerium dioxide equivalent compound, sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product "M 261" sold by the company KEMIRA or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product "M 211" sold by KEMIRA. Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises additional UV-screening agents chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, salicylic derivatives, 13,13-diphenylacrylate derivatives, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives, triazine derivatives and metal oxide pigments. coated, and mixtures thereof. The additional UV screening agent (s) is (are) in particular chosen from butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, drometrizole trisiloxane, sulphonic acid terephthalylidene dicamphor, ethylene hexyl triazine, methylene bis-benzotrizolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, coated titanium oxide pigments and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the additional UV filter (s) are chosen from organic screening agents. In particular, the additional UV filters may be present in the cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise one or more conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen from oils, waxes, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, defoamers, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active ingredients, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalizing agents or acidifying agents or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field. As oils, there may be mentioned, for example, mineral oils (paraffin oil); vegetable (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil); synthetics such as perhydrosqualene, fatty alcohols, fatty amides (such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name "Eldew SL-205" by Ajinomoto), fatty acids or esters, such as benzoate of alcohols, C12-C15 sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by the company WITCO, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name X-TEND 226® by the company ISP, the palmitate of octyl, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids, dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name "Cetiol CC" by Cognis), oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated esters and fatty ethers; silicone oils (cyclomethicone, polydimethylsiloxane or PDMS) or fluorinated oils, polyalkylenes, trialkyl trimellitates such as tridecyl trimellitate. Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more fatty alcohols, in particular cetearyl alcohol. As wax, mention may be made, for example, of carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil, polyethylene waxes and polymethylene waxes, such as that sold under the name Cirebelle 303 by the company SASOL. Examples of organic solvents are lower alcohols and polyols. These can be selected from glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol. As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may be made, for example, of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (acrylate / Cio-Cao-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic ; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trade name "Hostacerin AMPS" (name CTFA: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMULGEL 800 sold by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS and SEPINOV EMT 10 marketed by the company SEPPIC, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, polysaccharides and especially gums such as Xanthan gum, water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicones, polyether silicones and silicones cationic agents and mixtures thereof As lipophilic thickeners Examples which may be mentioned include synthetic polymers such as the poly C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylates sold under the name "IPA INTELIMER 13-1" and "INTELIMER IPA 13-6" by the company Landec, or modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as the products marketed under the Bentone name. Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more hydrophilic thickeners, such as carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides such as xanthan gum. Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more preservatives in a low content, in particular in a content of less than 1% by weight, more particularly less than 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound (s) mentioned above and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or substantially, not, altered by the addition or additions considered, including the absorption of ultraviolet radiation by betaine salicylate. The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They may be in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / H or W / O / W) such as cream, milk or cream gel ; in the form of an aqueous gel; in the form of a lotion. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion. The emulsification processes that can be used are of the pale type or helix, rotor-stator and HHP.

It is also possible, by HHP (between 50 and 800 bar), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes up to 100 nm. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifying surfactant chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifying surfactants, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). As emulsifying surfactants that may be used for the preparation of W / O emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid "by Dow Corning; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers may also be added, which advantageously may be selected from the group consisting of alkylated polyol esters.

As alkylated esters of polyol, there may be mentioned polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135 by the company ICI.

Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned are polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof. For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifying surfactants, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearylglucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol; , marketed for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company Seppic. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in WO- A-92/06778. In the case of an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol Biol 13, 238 (1965)). FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008). Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more emulsifying surfactants, in particular nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, such as the PEG-100 stearate / glyceryl stearate mixture and the fatty alcohol and sugar ethers. as cetostearylglucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids. Among the alkalinizing agents that may be mentioned, by way of example, are ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and following formula (VI): NWN Rc Rd (VI) wherein W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more alkalinizing agents chosen from alkanolamines, in particular triethanolamine, and sodium hydroxide. The pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between 3 and 12 approximately, preferably between 5 and 30 approximately, and even more particularly from 6 to 8.5. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, including Ra Rb cosmetics, skin, lips and hair, including the scalp. Another object of the present invention is constituted by the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, including skincare products, sunscreen products and make-up products. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may for example be used as a makeup product. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may, for example, be used as skincare and / or sun protection products for the face and / or body of liquid semiliquid consistency, such as milks, more or less unctuous creams, creams, pasta. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray. The compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions according to the invention are applied to the skin or the hair in the form of fine particles by means of pressurizing devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517 (which forms an integral part of the content of the description). The aerosol-conditioned compositions in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane. They are present preferably in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, additional cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients. Among the active ingredients, mention may be made of: vitamins (A, C, E, K, PP) and their derivatives or precursors, alone or in mixtures, anti-aging agents, anti-oxidizing agents, agents anti-radicals - anti-glycation agents; the soothing agents; the NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts; agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes; - skin-relaxing agents; tensing agents, mattifying agents, keratolytic agents, desquamating agents; - Moisturizing agents such as polyols such as glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol. agents acting on the energetic metabolism of cells; insect repellents; antagonists of substances P or CRGP. - anti-hair loss and / or hair regrowth agents - anti-wrinkle agents, - skin or hair pigmentation modulating agents, - astringent agents - sebo-regulating agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents.

Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound (s) mentioned above and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or substantially, not, altered by the addition or additions envisaged. The skilled person will choose the active agent (s) depending on the desired effect on the skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails.

The composition may furthermore comprise one or more ingredients, such as fillers with a blooming effect or agents promoting the natural coloration of the skin, intended to complete the biological effect of these active ingredients or to provide an immediate visual anti-aging effect.

The composition may further include one or more additional ingredients for providing immediate visual effect. Mention may in particular be made of agents that promote the naturally rosy coloration of the skin. Agents that promote the naturally rosy coloration of the skin include, for example, self-tanning agents, that is to say an agent which, applied to the skin, in particular on the face, makes it possible to obtain a tanning effect on the skin. appearance more or less similar to that which may result from prolonged exposure to the sun (natural tanning) or under a UV lamp.

Examples of self-tanning agents that may be mentioned include: dihydoxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, and the combination of a catalytic system formed of: salts and oxides of manganese and / or zinc, and alkaline hydrogenocarbonates and / or alkaline earth. The self-tanning agents are generally chosen from mono or polycarbonyl compounds such as, for example, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5 derivatives. -Diones as described in patent application FR 2 466 492 and WO 97/35842, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives as described in patent application EP 903 342. DHA will preferably be used. DHA may be used in free form and / or encapsulated for example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, in particular described in application WO 97/25970. In general, the self-tanning agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, and preferably in an amount of between 0.1 and 10% of the total weight of the composition. It is also possible to use other dyes which make it possible to modify the color produced by the self-tanning agent. These dyes may be chosen from synthetic direct dyes or natural dyes. These dyes may be chosen, for example, from red or orange dyes of the fluoran type such as those described in the patent application FR2840806. Mention may be made, for example, of the following dyes: tetrabromofluorescein or eosin known under the name CTFA: CI 45380 or Red 21, phloxine B known under the name CTFA: CI 45410 or Red 27, diiodofluorescein known under the name CTFA CI 45425 or Orange 10, dibromofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45370 or Orange 5; the sodium salt of tetrabromofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45380 (Na salt) or Red 22, the sodium salt of phloxine B known under the name CTFA: CI 45410 (Na salt) or Red 28, the sodium salt of diiodofluorescein known as CTFA: CI 45425 (Na salt) or Orange 11; erythrosine known under the name CTFA: CI 45430 or Acid Red 51, phloxine known under the name CTFA: CI 45405 or Acid Red 98.

These dyes may also be chosen from antraquinones, caramel, carmine, charcoal black, azulene blue, methoxalene, trioxalene, guajazulene, chamuzulene, bengal rose, cosine 10B, cyanosine, daphinine.

These dyes may also be chosen from indole derivatives such as the monohydroxyindoles as described in the patent FR2651126 (ie: 4-, 5-, 6- or 7-hydroxyindole) or the dihydroxyindoles as described in EP-B- 0425324 (ie: 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 3-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2,3-dimethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole). The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

Examples

The solar compositions (A) to (I) according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as a percentage by weight of product as they stand, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition A Betaine salicylate 5 Triethanolamine 4 Glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate 4 Cetearyl alcohol 2 C12 alkyl benzoate 15 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 Octocrylene 5 Phenoxyethanol and methylparaben (and) 0.7 ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) and) isobutylparaben (and) butyl paraben Polyacrylamide (and) isoparaffin (and) laureth-7 2 Water qs 100 g 27 Composition B Betaine salicylate 3 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.5 Triethanolamine 4 Glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate 4 Caryaryl alcohol 2 C12 alkyl benzoate 15 Ethyl hexyl triazine 3 Octocrylene 5 Phenoxyethanol and methylparaben (and) 0.7 ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (and) butyl paraben Polyacrylamide (and) isoparaffin (and) laureth -7 2 Water qs 100 g Composition C Betaine salicylate 3 Homomenthyle salycilate 10 Triethanolamine 4 Glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate 4 Cetearyl alcohol 2 Alkyl benzoate C12 15 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 Octocrylene 5 Phenoxyethanol and methylparaben (and) 0.7 ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (and) butyl paraben Polyacrylamide (and) isoparaffin (and) laureth-7 2 Water qs 100 g Composition D Salicylate betaine 3 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7,5 Cetearyl alcohol / cetearyl glucoside 5 Cetearyl alcohol 2 Dicaprylic carbonate 15 Titanium oxide treated with 6 stearic acid and aluminum hydroxide Preservatives Qs Sodium hydroxide Qs pH = 7 Water qs 100 g Composition E Betaine salicylate 3 Cetearyl alcohol / cetearyl glucoside 5 Cetearyl alcohol 2 Dicaprylic carbonate 15 Titanium oxide treated with 6 stearic acid and aluminum hydroxide Xanthan gum 0.5 Preservatives Qs Sodium hydroxide Qs pH = 7 Water qs 100 g Composition F Betaine salicylate 3 Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl 10 tetramethylbutylphenol Cetearyl alcohol 2 Glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate 4 C12 alkyl benzoate Phenoxyethanol and methylparaben (and) 0.7 ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (and) butyl paraben Triethanolamine Qs pH = 6.8 Polyacrylamide (and) isoparaffin (and) laureth-7 2 Water qs 100 g Composition G Betaine salicylate 2 Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl 5 tetramethylbutylphenol sold under the name Tinosorb M Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl 3 triazine sold under the name Tinosorb S Glycerol stearate and PEG stearate -100 4 Cetearyl alcohol 2 C12-C15 alkyl benzoate Phenoxyethanol and methylparaben (and) 0.7 ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (and) butyl paraben Polyacrylamide (and) isoparaffin (and) laureth-7 2 Triethanolamine Qs pH = 6.9 Water qs 100 g Composition H Betaine salicylate 6 Dometrizole Trisiloxane 3 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl 3 triazine sold under the name Tinosorb S Glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate 4 Alcohol c Caryl 2-methyl benzoate 15 Phenoxyethanol and methylparaben (and) 0.7 ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (and) butyl paraben Polyacrylamide (and) isoparaffin (and) laureth-7 2 Triethanolamine Qs pH = 6 , 9 Water qs 100 g Composition I Betaine salicylate 5 Dometrizole Trisiloxane 4 Sulfonic acid Terephthalylidene 3 dicamphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SX" by CHIMEX Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the name Tinosorb S Glycerol stearate and PEG-stearate 100 4 Caryaryl alcohol 2 C12 alkyl benzoate 15 Phenoxyethanol and methylparaben (and) 1 ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (and) butyl paraben Carbomer 1 Triethanolamine Qs pH = 6.9 Water qs 100 g It can be seen that the compositions (A) to (I) protect the skin and / or the hair against effectively filtering the ultraviolet radiation satisfactorily.

Claims (13)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic process for filtering ultraviolet rays comprising the application to a surface of a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the hair, of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least betaine salicylate . 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic composition further comprises one or more additional UV filters. 3. Method according to claim 2, characterized in that the additional UV filter or filters are organic filters selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, paraaminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, derivatives of (3) , (3-diphenylacrylate, benzophenone derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenyl benzimidazole derivatives, phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, anthranilic derivatives, imidazoline derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, benzoxazole derivatives and mixtures thereof. 4. Method according to claim 2, characterized in that the or additional UV filters are inorganic filters selected from coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments. 5. Method according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the additional UV filter (s) are chosen from: Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoylmethane Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate Homosalate which corresponds to homomenthyl salicylate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Octocrylene , Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, N-hexyl benzophenone-5, 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate 1,1 '- (1,4-piperazinediyl) bis [1- [2- [4- (Diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] phenyl] -methanone 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Sulfonic acid terephthalylidene Dicamphor, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate, Ethylhexyl triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 2,4 , 6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine 2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine 2,4,6-tris- (4'- amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine, 2,4-bis (4'-amino benzalmalonate dineopentyl) -6- (4'-aminobe) n-butyl nanoate) -s-triazine 2,4-bis (n-butyl 4-aminobenzoate) -6 - [(3- {1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy ] disiloxanyl} propyl) amino] -s-triazine Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Drometzole Trisiloxane Polysilicone-15 Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine and mixtures thereof. 6. Method according to any one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that the additional UV filter or filters are chosen from butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, octocrylene, trisiloxane drometzole, methylene bis-benzotrizolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, sulfonic acid terephthalylidene Dicamphor, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, coated titanium oxide pigments and mixtures thereof. 7. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the cosmetic composition further comprises one or more hydrophilic thickeners. 8. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the cosmetic composition further comprises one or more emulsifying surfactants, in particular nonionic emulsifying surfactants. 9. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the cosmetic composition further comprises one or more oils, in particular fatty alcohols. 10. Cosmetic use of betaine salicylate as a filtering agent for ultraviolet radiation. 11. Use according to claim 10 wherein said salicylate is contained in a composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium. 12. Composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, betaine salicylate and one or more additional UV filters as defined in claims 2 to 6. 13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the betaine salicylate is present in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.