FR2949329A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful for treating keratin materials, and removing/cleaning keratin material, or hair products, comprises an aqueous phase, at least one volatile alkane and at least one sucrose fatty acid ester - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition, useful for treating keratin materials, and removing/cleaning keratin material, or hair products, comprises an aqueous phase, at least one volatile alkane and at least one sucrose fatty acid ester Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2949329A1 FR2949329A1 FR0955915A FR0955915A FR2949329A1 FR 2949329 A1 FR2949329 A1 FR 2949329A1 FR 0955915 A FR0955915 A FR 0955915A FR 0955915 A FR0955915 A FR 0955915A FR 2949329 A1 FR2949329 A1 FR 2949329A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- weight
- sucrose
- composition according
- fatty acid
- mixture
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 160
- 150000001335 aliphatic alkanes Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 69
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 title claims abstract description 44
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 44
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 title claims abstract description 44
- 229930006000 Sucrose Natural products 0.000 title claims abstract description 34
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 34
- -1 sucrose fatty acid ester Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 34
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 21
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 11
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 title claims description 8
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 title claims description 8
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 title claims description 8
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 title description 4
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 title description 2
- CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N Sucrose Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N 0.000 claims description 40
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 36
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 30
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 22
- IIYFAKIEWZDVMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N tridecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC IIYFAKIEWZDVMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 14
- 150000005690 diesters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 14
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- BGHCVCJVXZWKCC-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC BGHCVCJVXZWKCC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- 150000005691 triesters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 10
- RSJKGSCJYJTIGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N undecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCC RSJKGSCJYJTIGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- SZYSLWCAWVWFLT-UTGHZIEOSA-N [(2s,3s,4s,5r)-3,4-dihydroxy-5-(hydroxymethyl)-2-[(2r,3r,4s,5s,6r)-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxyoxolan-2-yl]methyl octadecanoate Chemical compound O([C@@H]1[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1)O)[C@]1(COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O SZYSLWCAWVWFLT-UTGHZIEOSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 235000021355 Stearic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 8
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- YCOZIPAWZNQLMR-UHFFFAOYSA-N heptane - octane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC YCOZIPAWZNQLMR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000021314 Palmitic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- GCSPRLPXTPMSTL-IBDNADADSA-N [(2s,3r,4s,5s,6r)-2-[(2s,3s,4s,5r)-3,4-dihydroxy-2,5-bis(hydroxymethyl)oxolan-2-yl]-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl] dodecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)O[C@@]1([C@]2(CO)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O GCSPRLPXTPMSTL-IBDNADADSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- ZPVGIKNDGJGLCO-VGAMQAOUSA-N [(2s,3r,4s,5s,6r)-2-[(2s,3s,4s,5r)-3,4-dihydroxy-2,5-bis(hydroxymethyl)oxolan-2-yl]-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl] hexadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)O[C@@]1([C@]2(CO)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O ZPVGIKNDGJGLCO-VGAMQAOUSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N decanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- SNRUBQQJIBEYMU-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC SNRUBQQJIBEYMU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 229940094933 n-dodecane Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000005639 Lauric acid Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Pentadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- BKIMMITUMNQMOS-UHFFFAOYSA-N nonane Chemical group CCCCCCCCC BKIMMITUMNQMOS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N (E)-8-Octadecenoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCC(O)=O WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 20:1omega9c fatty acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 9-Heptadecensaeure Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000005632 Capric acid (CAS 334-48-5) Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000005642 Oleic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Oleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N isooleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC[14C](O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-N Linoleic acid Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 125000004429 atom Chemical group 0.000 claims 1
- 235000020778 linoleic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims 1
- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-IXWMQOLASA-N linoleic acid Natural products CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C\CCCCCCCC(O)=O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-IXWMQOLASA-N 0.000 claims 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 34
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 23
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 23
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 18
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 description 15
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 description 13
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 12
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 description 12
- 235000010755 mineral Nutrition 0.000 description 12
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 11
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 11
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 description 10
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 10
- 239000003643 water by type Substances 0.000 description 10
- 235000013305 food Nutrition 0.000 description 8
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 8
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 7
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 6
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 6
- 150000003445 sucroses Chemical class 0.000 description 6
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 description 5
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 5
- 235000013619 trace mineral Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 239000011573 trace mineral Substances 0.000 description 5
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229920001353 Dextrin Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000004375 Dextrin Substances 0.000 description 4
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 240000003183 Manihot esculenta Species 0.000 description 4
- 235000016735 Manihot esculenta subsp esculenta Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 240000008042 Zea mays Species 0.000 description 4
- 235000002017 Zea mays subsp mays Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N d-alpha-tocopherol Natural products OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 235000019425 dextrin Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000001704 evaporation Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000008020 evaporation Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 4
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- YBJHBAHKTGYVGT-ZKWXMUAHSA-N (+)-Biotin Chemical compound N1C(=O)N[C@@H]2[C@H](CCCCC(=O)O)SC[C@@H]21 YBJHBAHKTGYVGT-ZKWXMUAHSA-N 0.000 description 3
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- WVDDGKGOMKODPV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzyl alcohol Chemical compound OCC1=CC=CC=C1 WVDDGKGOMKODPV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229920000663 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 3
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 235000018936 Vitellaria paradoxa Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 241001135917 Vitellaria paradoxa Species 0.000 description 3
- 239000002671 adjuvant Substances 0.000 description 3
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-OVSJKPMPSA-N all-trans-retinol Chemical compound OC\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-OVSJKPMPSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 description 3
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- 235000019447 hydroxyethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N lactic acid Chemical class CC(O)C(O)=O JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229930014626 natural product Natural products 0.000 description 3
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- FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 13-cis retinol Natural products OCC=C(C)C=CC=C(C)C=CC1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- NPCOQXAVBJJZBQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N reduced coenzyme Q9 Natural products COC1=C(O)C(C)=C(CC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)C)C(O)=C1OC NPCOQXAVBJJZBQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- AETSDHMVQHOYPB-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;4-methoxybenzoate Chemical compound [Na+].COC1=CC=C(C([O-])=O)C=C1 AETSDHMVQHOYPB-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- RDKYCKDVIYTSAJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;4-oxopentanoate Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)CCC([O-])=O RDKYCKDVIYTSAJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 238000000844 transformation Methods 0.000 description 1
- ICUTUKXCWQYESQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N triclocarban Chemical compound C1=CC(Cl)=CC=C1NC(=O)NC1=CC=C(Cl)C(Cl)=C1 ICUTUKXCWQYESQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960001325 triclocarban Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229960003500 triclosan Drugs 0.000 description 1
- HTJNEBVCZXHBNJ-XCTPRCOBSA-H trimagnesium;(2r)-2-[(1s)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]-3,4-dihydroxy-2h-furan-5-one;diphosphate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O HTJNEBVCZXHBNJ-XCTPRCOBSA-H 0.000 description 1
- COXJMKGEQAWXNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris(14-methylpentadecyl) 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)CC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C COXJMKGEQAWXNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 239000011675 vitamin B5 Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000011735 vitamin B7 Substances 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
L'invention a pour objet une composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un alcane linéaire volatil et un émulsionnant ester de sucrose et d'acide gras et son utilisation dans le domaine cosmétique. The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising at least one volatile linear alkane and an emulsifier of sucrose and fatty acid ester and its use in the cosmetic field.
Pour diverses raisons liées en particulier à un meilleur confort d'utilisation (douceur, émollience et autres), les compositions cosmétiques actuelles comprennent une phase aqueuse et une ou plusieurs huiles, et se présentent par exemple sous la forme d'une émulsion du type huile-dans-eau (H/E) constituée d'une phase continue dispersante aqueuse et d'une phase discontinue dispersée huileuse. Ces compositions sont particulièrement recherchés en cosmétique du fait qu'elles comportent comme phase externe, une phase aqueuse, ce qui leur confère, lors de l'application sur la peau, un toucher plus frais, moins gras et plus léger que les émulsions E/H. For various reasons related in particular to a better comfort of use (softness, emollience and others), the current cosmetic compositions comprise an aqueous phase and one or more oils, and are for example in the form of an emulsion of the oil type. in-water (O / W) consisting of an aqueous dispersant continuous phase and an oily disperse discontinuous phase. These compositions are particularly sought after in cosmetics because they comprise, as external phase, an aqueous phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, a cooler, less greasy and lighter feel than emulsions. H.
Or depuis quelques années le marché cosmétique est marqué par une demande très forte de formulations contenant des ingrédients d'origine naturelle. Les consommateurs désirent des formulations exemptes de matières chimiques auxquels ils préfèrent des composés naturels ou d'origine naturelle, réputés pour leur meilleure tolérance et affinité avec la peau, et qui soient plus respectueuses de l'environnement. In recent years, however, the cosmetic market is marked by a very strong demand for formulations containing ingredients of natural origin. Consumers want chemical-free formulations that they prefer natural or naturally occurring compounds, known for their better tolerance and affinity to the skin, and that are more respectful of the environment.
Par composé naturel , on entend un composé que l'on obtient directement de la terre ou du sol, ou à partir de végétaux ou d'animaux, via, le cas échéant, un ou des processus physiques, comme par exemple un broyage, un raffinage, une distillation, une purification ou une filtration. "Natural compound" means a compound which is obtained directly from the soil or from the soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as, for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.
Par composés d'origine naturelle , on entend un composé naturel ayant subi un ou des traitements chimiques ou industriels annexes, engendrant des modifications n'affectant pas les qualités essentielles de ce composé et/ou un composé comprenant majoritairement des constituants naturels ayant ou non subi des transformations, comme indiquées ci-dessus. By compounds of natural origin, is meant a natural compound having undergone one or more chemical or industrial treatments annexes, causing changes not affecting the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising predominantly natural constituents whether or not undergone transformations, as indicated above.
A titre d'exemple non limitatif de traitement chimique ou industriel annexe engendrant des modifications n'affectant pas les qualités essentielles d'un composé naturel, on peut mentionner ceux autorisés par les organismes de contrôle tels qu'Ecocert (Référentiel des produits cosmétiques biologiques et écologiques, janvier 2003) ou définis dans les manuels reconnus dans le domaine, tels que Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine , 2005, vol. 120, 9:10. By way of non-limiting example of an adjunct chemical or industrial treatment resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by the control bodies such as Ecocert (reference system for organic cosmetics and January 2003) or defined in recognized textbooks in the field, such as Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine, 2005, Vol. 120, 9:10.
On cherche donc à formuler des compositions comprenant des huiles et un système émulsionnant compatibles avec la formulation de produits cosmétiques naturels et/ou certifiés biologiques , et qui permet d'obtenir une bonne dispersion de la phase huileuse, dans la phase aqueuse, même en présence d'un taux d'huile assez important (typiquement supérieur à 10%), ainsi qu'une formulation stable. On connaît du document WO 2007/068371 des émulsions comprenant une huile alcane volatile et un tensioactif alkyl glucoside, toutefois, ces émulsions, après application sur la peau, pénètrent lentement et laissent un film gras au toucher. It is therefore sought to formulate compositions comprising oils and an emulsifying system compatible with the formulation of natural and / or certified organic cosmetic products, and which makes it possible to obtain good dispersion of the oily phase in the aqueous phase, even in the presence of a fairly high oil content (typically greater than 10%), and a stable formulation. WO 2007/068371 discloses emulsions comprising a volatile alkane oil and an alkyl glucoside surfactant, however, these emulsions, after application to the skin, penetrate slowly and leave a greasy film to the touch.
La demanderesse a découvert que l'association d'un tensioactif ester de sucrose et d'acide gras avec un alcane linéaire volatil, de préférence d'origine végétale, permet d'obtenir une composition stable dans le temps, présentant de bonnes propriétés cosmétiques en particulier une sensation émolliente/hydratante à l'application, une pénétration rapide dans la peau et un toucher non gras. The Applicant has discovered that the combination of a sucrose ester and fatty acid surfactant with a volatile linear alkane, preferably of plant origin, makes it possible to obtain a composition that is stable over time, having good cosmetic properties in terms of especially an emollient / moisturizing sensation on application, a quick penetration into the skin and a non-greasy feel.
La présente invention a donc pour objet une composition cosmétique comprenant une phase aqueuse, au moins un alcane linéaire volatil et au moins un ester de sucrose et d'acide gras. The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase, at least one volatile linear alkane and at least one sucrose and fatty acid ester.
La composition selon l'invention est destinée à une application topique et contient donc un milieu physiologiquement acceptable. On entend ici par milieu physiologiquement acceptable un milieu compatible avec les matières kératiniques telles que la peau, les muqueuses, le cuir chevelu, les yeux et/ou les fibres kératiniques telles que les cils ou les cheveux. The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" here means a medium that is compatible with keratin materials such as the skin, the mucous membranes, the scalp, the eyes and / or the keratinous fibers such as the eyelashes or the hair.
Ester de sucrose et d'acide gras : Ester of sucrose and fatty acid:
Selon la présente invention, l'ester de sucrose et d'acide gras est de préférence choisi parmi les esters issus de la réaction de sucrose(s) (saccharose) et d'acide(s) gras comprenant de 10 à 24 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 12 à 20 atomes de carbone et mieux de 12 à 18 atomes de carbone. Les acides gras comprenant de 10 à 24 atomes de carbone peuvent être linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés. Les acides gras peuvent être choisis parmi l'acide oléique, l'acide laurique, l'acide palmitique, l'acide myristique, l'acide stéarique, l'acide linoléique, l'acide caprique, ou leurs mélanges Selon un mode de réalisation, l'ester de sucrose et d'acide gras est choisi parmi les esters issus de la réaction de sucrose et d'acide gras comprenant de 12 à 18 atomes de carbone, tels que l'acide stéarique, l'acide laurique et/ou l'acide palmitique comme par exemple le stéarate de sucrose, le laurate de sucrose, le palmitate de sucrose ou un mélange. According to the present invention, the sucrose and fatty acid ester is preferably chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of sucrose (s) (sucrose) and fatty acid (s) comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms. preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acids comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acids may be chosen from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, or mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment the sucrose and fatty acid ester is chosen from esters resulting from the sucrose and fatty acid reaction comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid and / or palmitic acid such as, for example, sucrose stearate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate or a mixture.
Les esters de sucrose et d'acides gras peuvent être choisis parmi les mono-, di-, tri- et tétra-esters, les polyesters et leurs mélanges. On utilise de préférence des esters à faible degré d'estérification comme par exemple des monoesters, diesters, triesters de sucrose et d'acide gras ou un mélange. L'ester de sucrose et d'acide gras peut se présenter sous forme d'un mélange d'esters à faible degré d'estérification comme par exemple un mélange de monoester et diester ou un mélange de monoester, diester et triester. The sucrose esters of fatty acids may be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. Esters with a low degree of esterification, such as, for example, monoesters, diesters, triesters of sucrose and fatty acid, or a mixture, are preferably used. The sucrose and fatty acid ester may be in the form of a mixture of esters with a low degree of esterification, for example a mixture of monoester and diester or a mixture of monoester, diester and triester.
Dans le cas ou l'on utilise un mélange d'esters de sucrose et d'acide gras, on préfère un mélange dans lesquels les esters à faible degré d'estérification, en particulier les monoesters, sont majoritaires et représentent par exemple au moins 50%, de préférence au moins 60% en poids du mélange d'esters de sucrose et d'acide gras. In the case where a mixture of sucrose esters and fatty acid is used, a mixture is preferred in which the esters with a low degree of esterification, in particular monoesters, are in the majority and represent for example at least 50 %, preferably at least 60% by weight of the mixture of sucrose esters and fatty acid.
On peut utiliser en particulier un mélange d'esters de sucrose et d'acides gras comprenant de 12 à 18 atomes de carbone, en particulier une mélange de mono, di et triesters d'acide stéarique, d'acide laurique ou d'acide palmitique, ledit mélange pouvant comprendre de façon minoritaire (en une teneur inférieure ou égale à 40% en poids par rapport au poids du mélange d'esters de sucrose et d'acide gras) des esters de sucrose et d'acides gras dans lequel l'acide gras comprend plus de 18 atomes de carbone. In particular, it is possible to use a mixture of sucrose esters and fatty acids comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular a mixture of mono, di and triesters of stearic acid, lauric acid or palmitic acid. said mixture may comprise, in a minority manner (at a content of less than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of sucrose esters and of fatty acid) sucrose esters of fatty acids in which the fatty acid comprises more than 18 carbon atoms.
De préférence, l'ester de sucrose et d'acide gras utilisé dans la présente invention présente une HLB supérieure ou égale à 10, de préférence supérieure ou égale à 12. Preferably, the sucrose and fatty acid ester used in the present invention has an HLB greater than or equal to 10, preferably greater than or equal to 12.
Comme cela est bien connu, on entend par HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) l'équilibre entre la dimension et la force du groupe hydrophile et la dimension et la force de groupe lipophile de l'agent tensioactif. La valeur HLB selon GRIFFIN est définie dans J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.35 On peut citer à titre d'exemples d'ester de sucrose et d'acide gras ou de mélanges d'esters de sucrose et d'acide gras : - le Tegosoft PSE 141G (nom INCI sucrose stearate) d'EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT - le Surfhope SE COSME C-1803 de MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD dont le nom INCI est sucrose stearate, qui est un mélange de mono, di et triesters d'acide stéarique et de sucrose - le Surfhope SE COSME C-1816 de MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD dont le nom INCI est sucrose stearate, de HLB égal à 16, qui est un mélange comprenant au moins 50% de monostéarate de sucrose, du distéarate de sucrose et du palmitate de sucrose, - le Ryoto sugar ester S1570 de MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD dont le nom INCI est sucrose stearate, de HLB égale à 15, comprenant environ 70% de monoesters de sucrose et d'acide stéarique, le reste du mélange étant composé de diesters et autres polyesters. - le Surfhope SE COSME C-1416 de MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD, présentant une HLB de 16, qui est un sucrose myristate comprenant environ 80% de monoester, le reste du mélange étant composé de di et triesters, - le Surfhope SE COSME C-1216 de MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD dont le nom INCI est sucrose laurate, de HLB égale à 16 et comprend de 75 à 90% de monoester, le reste du mélange étant composé de di et triesters, - le Surfhope SE COSME C-1215L de MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD dont le nom INCI est sucrose laurate, de HLB égale à 15, comprenant environ 70% de monoesters, le reste du mélange étant composé de diesters et autres polyesters, - le Surfhope SE COSME C-1616 de MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD, présentant une HLB de 16, qui est un mélange d'esters de saccharose et d'acides palmitique et/ou stéarique (nom INCI sucrose palmitate), comprenant de 75 à 90% de monoester, le reste du mélange étant composé de di et triesters, et pouvant comprendre du sucrose stéarate et sucrose palmitate stéarate, - le Ryoto sugar ester S1570 de MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD dont le nom INCI est sucrose stearate, de HLB égale à 15, comprenant environ 70% de monoesters, le reste du mélange étant composé de diesters et autres polyesters. As is well known, HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) is the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and lipophilic group strength of the surfactant. The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.35. Examples that may be mentioned of sucrose ester and of fatty acid or mixtures of sucrose esters and of fatty acids are: - Tegosoft PSE 141G (INCI name sucrose stearate) from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT - the MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD Surfhope SE COSME C-1803 whose INCI name is sucrose stearate, which is a mixture of mono, di and triesters of stearic acid and sucrose - the Surfhope SE COSME C -1816 of MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD whose INCI name is sucrose stearate, of HLB equal to 16, which is a mixture comprising at least 50% of sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose palmitate, - Ryoto sugar ester S1570 of MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD whose INCI name is sucrose stearate, of HLB equal to 15, comprising about 70% monoesters of sucrose and stearic acid, the rest of the mixture being composed of diesters and other polyesters. MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD's Surfhope SE COSME C-1416, having a HLB of 16, which is a myristate sucrose comprising approximately 80% of monoester, the remainder of the mixture being composed of di and triesters, the Surfhope SE COSME C-1216 of MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD whose INCI name is sucrose laurate, of HLB equal to 16 and comprises 75 to 90% of monoester, the remainder of the mixture being composed of di and triesters, - MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD Surfhope SE COSME C-1215L whose INCI name is sucrose laurate, of HLB equal to 15, comprising about 70% of monoesters, the rest of the mixture being composed of diesters and other polyesters, - the MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD Surfhope SE COSME C-1616, having a HLB of 16, which is a mixture of sucrose esters and palmitic and / or stearic acids (INCI name sucrose palmitate), comprising from 75 to 90% of monoester, the rest of the mixture being composed of di and triesters, and which can comprise sucrose stearate and sucrose palmitate st - the Ryoto sugar ester S1570 MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD whose INCI name is sucrose stearate, HLB equal to 15, comprising about 70% monoesters, the remainder of the mixture being composed of diesters and other polyesters.
On peut également citer l'ester portent le nom INCI sucrose laurate commercialisé par la société Dai-ichi Seiyaku sous la référence DK ester S-L18A, de HLB égale à 17, comprenant 70% de monoesters et 30% de di- et tri-esters. It is also possible to mention the ester bearing the INCI name sucrose laurate marketed by the company Dai-ichi Seiyaku under the reference DK ester S-L18A, of HLB equal to 17, comprising 70% monoesters and 30% di- and tri- esters.
On peut aussi citer à titre d'exemples d'esters ou de mélanges d'esters de sucrose d'acide gras: - les produits vendus sous les dénominations F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 par la société CRODESTA, désignant respectivement les palmito-stéarates de sucrose formés de 73% de monoester et 27% de di- et tri-ester, de 61% de monoester et 39% de di-, tri-, et tétra-ester, de 52% de monoester et 48% de di-, tri-, et tétra-ester, de 45% de monoester et 55% de di-, tri-, et tétra-ester, de 39% de monoester et 61% de di-, tri-, et tétra-ester, et le mono-laurate de sucrose; - les produits vendus sous la dénomination RYOTO SUGAR ESTERS par exemple référencés B370 et correspondant au béhénate de saccharose formé de 20% de monoester et 80% de di-triester-polyester; - le mono-di-palmito-stéarate de sucrose commercialisé par la société GOLDSCHMIDT sous la dénomination TEGOSOFT PSE. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sucrose: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company CRODESTA, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% monoester; % di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra. -ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name RYOTO SUGAR ESTERS, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name TEGOSOFT PSE.
La quantité d'ester(s) de sucrose et d'acide gras peut aller par exemple de 0,1 à 20 % en poids, de préférence de 0,5 à 15 % en poids, mieux de 1 à 15 % en poids, encore mieux de 2 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The amount of ester (s) sucrose and fatty acid may range, for example, from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Selon un mode de réalisation, la composition selon l'invention peut comprendre, outre l'ester de sucrose et d'acide gras, un tensioactif additionnel choisi parmi les tensioactifs anioniques, non ioniques ou amphotériques, en particulier des tensioactifs non ioniques, mais seulement dans la mesure où la présence de ces tensioactifs n'affecte pas le confort (innocuité) de la composition. Les tensioactifs additionnels pouvant être utilisés dans la composition selon l'invention sont de préférence sont de préférence des tensioactifs non ioniques, et en particulier des tensioactifs d'origine naturelle, dans lesquels on inclut les composés qui peuvent être présents dans la nature et qui sont reproduits par synthèse chimique. Ils peuvent être notamment choisis parmi les savons (sels d'acides gras), les dérivé de l'huile de soja, les dérivé d'acide lactique, les esters de glycérol et d'acide gras tel que l'acide stéarique comme par exemple le glyceryl stearate (tel que le composé commercialisé par la société Evonik Goldshmidt sous la référence Tegin M Pellets ou par la société cognis sous la référence CUTINA GMS V), les aminoacides, les acylaminoacides, leurs sels, les alkyl polyglucosides (APG), les gommes hydrophobées et leurs mélanges. Le tensioactif additionnel peut être présent dans la composition en une teneur allant de 0,1 à 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 0,5 à 15% en poids et mieux de 0,5 à 5% en poids. En particulier il est présente en une teneur n'excédant pas 5%, et de préférence n'excédant pas 2% en poids. According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise, besides the sucrose and fatty acid ester, an additional surfactant chosen from anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, in particular nonionic surfactants, but only insofar as the presence of these surfactants does not affect the comfort (safety) of the composition. The additional surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably nonionic surfactants, and in particular surfactants of natural origin, in which are included the compounds which may be present in nature and which are reproduced by chemical synthesis. They may be chosen especially from soaps (fatty acid salts), derivatives of soybean oil, lactic acid derivatives, esters of glycerol and fatty acid such as stearic acid, for example glyceryl stearate (such as the compound sold by the company Evonik Goldshmidt under the reference Tegin M Pellets or by the cognis company under the reference CUTINA GMS V), the amino acids, the acylamino acids, their salts, the alkyl polyglucosides (APG), the hydrophobed gums and mixtures thereof. The additional surfactant may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight. % in weight. In particular it is present in a content not exceeding 5%, and preferably not exceeding 2% by weight.
Selon un mode de réalisation, le ou les esters de sucrose et d'acide gras constituent le système tensioactif principal de la composition. Par système tensioactif principal , on entend un système qui, en son absence, ne conduit pas à la formation d'une composition stable. Par stable , on entend une composition qui, après avoir été placée dans une étuve à 45°C pendant deux mois, ne présente pas, après retour à température ambiante, de déphasage des phases grasse et aqueuse, ou de relargage de phase grasse en surface. According to one embodiment, the sucrose and fatty acid ester (s) constitute the main surfactant system of the composition. By main surfactant system is meant a system which, in its absence, does not lead to the formation of a stable composition. By stable is meant a composition which, after having been placed in an oven at 45 ° C. for two months, does not show, after return to ambient temperature, phase shift of the fatty and aqueous phases, or release of fatty phase on the surface. .
De préférence la composition selon l'invention ne comprend que des tensioactifs non ioniques. Alcane linéaire volatil . Preferably the composition according to the invention comprises only nonionic surfactants. Volatile linear alkane.
Selon un mode de réalisation, un alcane linéaire volatil convenant à l'invention peut présenter un point éclair compris dans l'intervalle variant de 30 à 120 °C, et plus 20 particulièrement de 40 à 100 °C,. Un alcane linéaire volatil convenant à l'invention est liquide à température ambiante (environ 25 °C) et à la pression atmosphérique (760 mmHg). Selon un mode de réalisation, un alcane convenant à l'invention peut être un alcane linéaire volatil comprenant de 9 à 15 atomes de carbone, en particulier de 25 10 à 15 atomes de carbone, et plus particulièrement de 11 à 14 atomes de carbone. Un alcane linéaire volatil convenant à l'invention peut être avantageusement d'origine végétale. De préférence, l'alcane linéaire volatil ou le mélange d'alcanes linéaires volatiles présent dans la composition selon l'invention comprend au moins un isotope 14C du carbone 30 (carbone 14), en particulier l'isotope 14C peut être présent en un ratio 14C / 12C supérieur ou égal à 1.10-16, de préférence supérieur ou égal à 1.10-15, de préférence encore supérieur ou égal 7,5.10-14, et mieux supérieur ou égal 1,5.10-13. De préférence, le ratio 14C/12Cvade6.1013à 1,2.1012. La quantité de d'isotopes 14C dans l'alcane linéaire volatil ou le mélange d'alcanes 35 linéaires volatiles peut être déterminée par des méthodes connues de l'homme du métier telles que la méthode de comptage de Libby, la spectrométrie à scintillation15 liquide ou encore la spectrométrie de masse à accélération (Accelerator Mass Spectrometry). According to one embodiment, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may have a flash point in the range of 30 to 120 ° C, and more preferably 40 to 100 ° C. A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (about 25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). According to one embodiment, an alkane suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 14 carbon atoms. A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may advantageously be of plant origin. Preferably, the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one isotope 14C of carbon (carbon 14), in particular the isotope 14C may be present in a ratio 14C / 12C greater than or equal to 1.10-16, preferably greater than or equal to 1.10-15, more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5.10-14, and better still greater than or equal to 1.5.10-13. Preferably, the ratio 14C / 12Cvade6.1013 to 1.2.1012. The amount of 14 C isotopes in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes can be determined by methods known to those skilled in the art such as the Libby counting method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or still Accelerator Mass Spectrometry.
Un tel alcane peut être obtenu, directement ou en plusieurs étapes, à partir d'une matière première végétale comme une huile, un beurre, une cire, etc. A titre d'exemple d'alcane convenant à l'invention, on peut mentionner les alcanes décrits dans les demandes de brevets de la société Cognis WO 2007/068371, ou WO2008/155059 (mélanges d'alcanes distincts et différant d'au moins un carbone). Ces alcanes sont obtenus à partir d'alcools gras, eux-mêmes obtenus à partir d'huile de coprah ou de palme. A titre d'exemple d'alcane linéaire convenant à l'invention, on peut citer le n-nonane (C9), le n-décane (C10), le n-undécane (C11), le n-dodécane (C12), le ntridécane (C13), le n-tétradecane (C14), le n-pentadécane (C15), et leurs mélanges, et en particulier le mélange de n-undécane (C11) et de n-tridécane (C13) décrit à l'exemple 1 ou 2 de la demande WO2008/155059 de la Société Cognis, le n-dodécane (C12), le en-tétradécane (C14) vendus par Sasol sous les références respectives PARAFOL 12-97 et PARAFOL 14-97, ainsi que leurs mélanges. Such an alkane can be obtained, directly or in several stages, from a vegetable raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc. By way of example of an alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from at least a carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. By way of example of a linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), ntridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) described in example 1 or 2 of the application WO2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company, n-dodecane (C12), tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures.
On pourra utiliser l'alcane linéaire volatil seul ou en mélange d'au moins deux alcanes volatils distincts et différant entre eux d'un nombre de carbone d'au moins 1. Selon un premier mode de réalisation, on utilise un mélange d'au moins deux alcanes linéaires volatiles distincts comportant de 10 à 15 atomes de carbone et différant entre eux d'un nombre de carbone d'au moins 1. A titre d'exemples, on peut citer notamment les mélanges d'alcanes linéaires volatiles C10/C11, Cl 1/C12, C12/C13, ou C14/C15. The volatile linear alkane may be used alone or as a mixture of at least two different volatile alkanes and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1. According to a first embodiment, a mixture of minus two distinct volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 15 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1. By way of examples, mention may be made in particular of mixtures of C10 / C11 volatile linear alkanes. , C1 / C12, C12 / C13, or C14 / C15.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation, on utilise un mélange d'au moins deux alcanes linéaires volatiles distincts comportant de 10 à 15 atomes de carbone et différant entre eux d'un nombre de carbone d'au moins 2. A titre d'exemples, on peut citer notamment les mélanges d'alcanes linéaires volatiles C10/C12, ou C12/C14, pour un nombre de carbone n pair et les mélanges C11/C13, ou C13/C15 pour un nombre de carbone n impair. Selon un mode préféré, on utilise un mélange d'au moins deux alcanes linéaires volatiles comportant de 10 à 15 atomes de carbone distincts et différant entre eux d'un nombre de carbone d'au moins 2, et en particulier un mélange d'alcanes linéaires volatiles Cl 1/C13 ou un mélange d'alcanes linéaires volatiles C12/C14. According to another embodiment, a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 15 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2 is used. As examples, mention may in particular be made of mixtures of C10 / C12 or C12 / C14 volatile linear alkanes for an even number of carbon and C11 / C13 or C13 / C15 mixtures for an odd carbon number n. According to a preferred embodiment, a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 15 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of alkanes, is used. volatile linear Cl 1 / C13 or a mixture of volatile linear C12 / C14 alkanes.
D'autres mélanges associant plus de 2 alcanes linéaires volatiles selon l'invention, tels que par exemple un mélange d'au moins 3 alcanes linéaires volatiles comportant de 9 à 15 atomes de carbone distincts et différant entre eux d'un nombre de carbone d'au moins 1 font également partie de l'invention, mais les mélanges de 2 alcanes linéaires volatiles selon l'invention sont préférés (mélanges binaires), lesdits 2 alcanes volatils représentant de préférence plus de 95% et mieux plus de 99% en poids de la teneur totale en alcanes linéaires volatiles dans le mélange. Selon un mode particulier de l'invention, dans un mélange d'alcanes linéaires volatils, l'alcane linéaire volatile ayant le nombre de carbone le plus petit est majoritaire dans le mélange. Selon un autre mode de l'invention, on utilise un mélange d'alcanes linéaires volatiles dans lequel l'alcane linéaire volatile ayant le nombre de carbone le plus grand est majoritaire dans le mélange. Other mixtures comprising more than 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention, such as, for example, a mixture of at least 3 volatile linear alkanes having 9 to 15 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other in a number of carbon atoms. at least 1 are also part of the invention, but the mixtures of 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention are preferred (binary mixtures), said 2 volatile alkanes preferably representing more than 95% and better still more than 99% by weight the total content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in a mixture of volatile linear alkanes, the linear volatile alkane having the smallest carbon number is predominant in the mixture. According to another embodiment of the invention, a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in which the volatile linear alkane having the largest carbon number is predominant in the mixture is used.
A titre d'exemples de mélanges convenant à l'invention, on peut citer notamment les mélanges suivants : - de 50 à 90% en poids, de préférence de 55 à 80% en poids, préférentiellement encore de 60 à 75% en poids d'alcane linéaire volatile en Cn, avec n allant de 9 à 15 - de 10 à 50% en poids, de préférence de 20 à 45% en poids, de préférence de 24 à 40% en poids, d'alcane linéaire volatile en Cn+x avec x supérieur ou égal à 1, de préférence x=1 ou x=2, par rapport au poids total des alcanes dans ledit mélange. By way of examples of mixtures which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following mixtures: from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, and still more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, Cn volatile linear alkane, with n ranging from 9 to 15 - from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of volatile linear alkane in Cn + x with x greater than or equal to 1, preferably x = 1 or x = 2, relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.
En particulier, ledit mélange d'alcanes selon l'invention contient : - moins de 2% en poids, de préférence moins de 1% en poids d'alcanes ramifiés, - et/ou moins de 2% en poids, de préférence moins de 1% en poids d'hydrocarbures aromatiques, - et/ou moins de 2% en poids, de préférence moins de 1% en poids et préférentiellement moins de 0.1% en poids d'hydrocarbures insaturés dans le mélange. In particular, said mixture of alkanes according to the invention contains: less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of branched alkanes, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of aromatic hydrocarbons, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.1% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons in the mixture.
Plus particulièrement, un alcane linéaire volatil convenant à l'invention peut être mis en oeuvre sous la forme d'un mélange n-undécane/n-tridécane. More particularly, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be used in the form of a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture.
En particulier, on utilisera un mélange d'alcanes linéaires volatiles comprenant : - de 55 à 80% en poids, de préférence de 60 à 75% en poids d'alcane linéaire volatile en Cl 1 (n-undécane) - de 20 à 45% en poids, de préférence de 24 à 40% en poids d'alcane linéaire volatile en C13 (n-tridécane) par rapport au poids total des alcanes dans ledit mélange. In particular, use will be made of a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising: from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of volatile linear C1 2 alkane (n-undecane), from 20 to 45% by weight; % by weight, preferably 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear alkane C13 (n-tridecane) relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, le mélange d'alcanes est un mélange nundécane/n-tridécane. En particulier un tel mélange peut être obtenu selon l'exemple 1 ou l'exemple 2 du WO 2008/155059. Selon un autre mode de réalisation particulier, on utilise le n-dodécane vendu sous la référence PARAFOL 12-97 par SASOL. According to a particular embodiment, the mixture of alkanes is a nundecane / n-tridecane mixture. In particular such a mixture can be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059. According to another particular embodiment, the n-dodecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 12-97 is used by SASOL.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation particulier, on utilise le n-tétradécane vendu sous la 15 référence PARAFOL 14-97 par SASOL. According to another particular embodiment, the n-tetradecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 14-97 is used by SASOL.
Selon encore un autre mode de réalisation, on utilise un mélange de n-dodécane et de n-tétradécane. According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used.
20 Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, un solvant hydrocarboné volatil convenant à l'invention peut présenter une vitesse d'évaporation inférieure ou égale à 0,13 mg/cm2/min. Selon un mode de réalisation, un solvant hydrocarboné volatil convenant à l'invention peut présenter une vitesse d'évaporation comprise dans l'intervalle variant de 0,05 à 25 0,13 mg/cm2/min, en particulier de 0,08 à 0,12 mg/cm2/min, et plus particulièrement de 0,1 à 0,12 mg/cm2/min. La volatilité d'un solvant hydrocarboné volatil conforme à l'invention peut être notamment évaluée au moyen du protocole décrit dans WO 06/013413, et plus particulièrement au moyen du protocole décrit ci-après. 30 On introduit dans un cristallisoir (diamètre : 7 cm) placé sur une balance se trouvant dans une enceinte d'environ 0,3 m3 régulée en température (25 °C) et en hygrométrie (humidité relative 50 %) 15 g de solvant hydrocarboné volatil. On laisse le liquide s'évaporer librement, sans l'agiter, en assurant une ventilation par un ventilateur (PAPST-MOTOREN, référence 8550 N, tournant à 35 2700 tours/minute) disposé en position verticale au-dessus du cristallisoir contenant le10 solvant hydrocarboné volatil, les pales étant dirigées vers le cristallisoir, à une distance de 20 cm par rapport au fond du cristallisoir. On mesure à intervalles de temps réguliers la masse de solvant hydrocarboné volatil restante dans le cristallisoir. According to one particular embodiment, a volatile hydrocarbon solvent suitable for the invention may have an evaporation rate of less than or equal to 0.13 mg / cm 2 / min. According to one embodiment, a volatile hydrocarbon solvent that is suitable for the invention may have an evaporation rate in the range of from 0.05 to 0.13 mg / cm 2 / min, in particular from 0.08 to 0.12 mg / cm 2 / min, and more particularly 0.1 to 0.12 mg / cm 2 / min. The volatility of a volatile hydrocarbon solvent according to the invention may in particular be evaluated by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below. A crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance in a chamber of about 0.3 m 3 controlled by temperature (25 ° C.) and hygrometry (relative humidity 50%) is introduced into a crystallizer (15 g) of hydrocarbon solvent. volatile. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing the solvent. volatile hydrocarbon, the blades being directed to the crystallizer, at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of volatile hydrocarbon solvent remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular time intervals.
Les vitesses d'évaporation sont exprimées en mg de solvant hydrocarboné volatil évaporé par unité de surface (cm2) et par unité de temps (minute). Le solvant hydrocarboné volatil selon l'invention a une vitesse d'évaporation inférieure ou égale à 0,13 mg/cm2/min. Cela correspond donc à une quantité de solvant évaporé inférieure ou égale à 3,9 mg/ cm2 en 30 minutes. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile hydrocarbon solvent evaporated per unit area (cm 2) and per unit of time (minute). The volatile hydrocarbon solvent according to the invention has an evaporation rate of less than or equal to 0.13 mg / cm 2 / min. This therefore corresponds to an amount of evaporated solvent of less than or equal to 3.9 mg / cm 2 in 30 minutes.
La composition de l'invention peut comprendre de 0,5 % à 95 % en poids d'alcanes linéaires volatils, de préférence de 0,5 % à 40 % en poids, en particulier de 1 % à 30 % en poids, en particulier de 2 % à 20 % en poids, et plus particulièrement de 2 à 10 % en poids de poids d'alcanes linéaires volatils par rapport au poids total de la composition. Phase aqueuse The composition of the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 95% by weight of volatile linear alkanes, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight, and more particularly from 2% to 10% by weight of volatile linear alkanes relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase
La composition selon l'invention comprend une phase aqueuse comprenant de l'eau 20 et/ou des solvants hydrophiles comme des polyols. La quantité d'eau dans la composition peut aller par exemple de 0,5 à 95 % en poids, de préférence de 1 à 90 % en poids, mieux de 10 à 80 % en poids, encore mieux de 40 à 75% % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and / or hydrophilic solvents such as polyols. The amount of water in the composition may range, for example, from 0.5 to 95% by weight, preferably from 1 to 90% by weight, better still from 10 to 80% by weight, and still more preferably from 40 to 75% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
25 L'eau utilisée dans la composition de l'invention peut être de l'eau pure déminéralisée mais aussi de l'eau minérale et/ou de l'eau thermale et/ou de l'eau de mer, c'est-à-dire que l'eau de la composition peut être en partie ou totalement constituée par une eau choisie parmi les eaux minérales, les eaux thermales, les eaux de mer et leurs mélanges. En général, une eau minérale est propre à la consommation, ce qui n'est pas 30 toujours le cas d'une eau thermale. Chacune de ces eaux contient, entre autre, des minéraux solubilisés et/ou des oligo-éléments. Ces eaux sont connues pour être employées à des fins de traitement spécifique selon les oligo-éléments et les minéraux particuliers qu'elles contiennent, tel que l'hydratation et la désensibilisation de la peau ou le traitement de certaines dermatoses. Par eaux minérales ou thermales, on 35 désignera non seulement les eaux minérales ou thermales naturelles, mais également des eaux minérales ou thermales naturelles enrichies en constituants minéraux et/ou en15 oligo-éléments supplémentaires, ainsi que des solutions aqueuses minérales et/ou contenant des oligo-éléments préparées à partir d'eau purifiée (déminéralisée ou distillée). The water used in the composition of the invention may be demineralized pure water but also mineral water and / or thermal water and / or seawater, that is to say that is to say that the water of the composition may be partly or wholly constituted by a water chosen from mineral waters, thermal waters, sea waters and their mixtures. In general, mineral water is suitable for consumption, which is not always the case with thermal water. Each of these waters contains, inter alia, solubilized minerals and / or trace elements. These waters are known to be used for purposes of specific treatment according to the particular trace elements and minerals they contain, such as hydration and desensitization of the skin or the treatment of certain dermatoses. By mineral or thermal waters, not only natural mineral or thermal waters will be designated, but also natural mineral or thermal waters enriched with additional mineral constituents and / or trace elements, as well as mineral and / or water-containing mineral solutions. trace elements prepared from purified water (demineralised or distilled).
Une eau thermale ou minérale naturelle utilisée selon l'invention peut, par exemple, être choisie parmi l'eau de Vittel, les eaux du bassin de Vichy, l'eau d'Uriage, l'eau de la Roche Posay, l'eau de la Bourboule, l'eau d'Enghien-les-Bains, l'eau de Saint Gervaisles-Bains, l'eau de Néris-les-Bains, l'eau d'Allevar-les-Bains, l'eau de Digne, l'eau de Maizières, l'eau de Neyrac-les-Bains, l'eau de Lons-le-Saunier, les Eaux Bonnes, l'eau de Rochefort, l'eau de Saint Christau, l'eau des Fumades et l'eau de Tercis-les-bains, l'eau d'Avene. A natural thermal or mineral water used according to the invention may, for example, be selected from Vittel water, the waters of the Vichy basin, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, water the Bourboule, the water of Enghien-les-Bains, the water of Saint Gervaisles-Bains, the water of Néris-les-Bains, the water of Allevar-les-Bains, the water of Digne , the water of Maizières, the water of Neyrac-les-Bains, the water of Lons-le-Saunier, the Good Waters, the water of Rochefort, the water of Saint Christau, the water of the Fumades and the water of Tercis-les-bains, the water of Avene.
La phase aqueuse de la composition de l'invention peut comprendre un solvant organique soluble dans l'eau, choisi par exemple parmi les mono-alcools inférieurs comportant de 1 à 8 atomes de carbone et en particulier 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, comme l'éthanol, l'isopropanol, le propanol, le butanol , les polyols comme par exemple la glycérine, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, l'hexylène glycol, les polyéthylène glycols tels que le PEG-8, le dipropylène glycol, et leurs mélanges. Selon un mode préféré de réalisation de l'invention, le polyol est la glycérine qui donne un meilleur confort à l'application. On peut ajouter à la glycérine, d'autres polyols dans la mesure où les qualités de la composition sont maintenues. The aqueous phase of the composition of the invention may comprise a water-soluble organic solvent chosen, for example, from lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, polyols such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8, dipropylene glycol, and their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol is glycerine which gives a better comfort to the application. Other polyols may be added to the glycerin to the extent that the qualities of the composition are maintained.
La quantité de polyol(s) peut aller par exemple de 0,5 à 15 % en poids, de préférence de 0,5 à 10 % en poids, mieux de 1 à 10 % en poids, encore mieux de 2 à 10 % en poids et encore mieux de 2 à 8 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The amount of polyol (s) can range, for example, from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight, and still more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight. weight and more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition peut comprendre un gélifiant hydrophile, choisi de préférence parmi les gélifiants d'origine naturelle, en particulier d'origine végétale, ou les polysaccharides d'origine biotechnologique (par exemple la gomme de xanthane). The composition may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably chosen from gelling agents of natural origin, in particular of plant origin, or polysaccharides of biotechnological origin (for example xanthan gum).
Ce polysaccharide issu du végétal peut le cas échéant être modifié chimiquement pour favoriser sa valence hydrophile, comme c'est le cas des dérivés de cellulose, en particulier des hydroxyalkyle celluloses (ex : hydroxyethylcellulose). This polysaccharide derived from the plant may optionally be chemically modified to promote its hydrophilic valence, as is the case of cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkyl celluloses (eg hydroxyethylcellulose).
Comme exemples de polysaccharides d'origine végétale utilisables selon l'invention, on peut citer notamment : a) des extraits d'algues, tels que les alginates, les carraghénanes, les agars agars, et leurs mélanges. A titre d'exemples de carraghénanes, on peut citer les Satiagum UTC30 et UTC10 de la société Degussa ; comme alginates, on peut citer l'alginate de sodium vendu sous la dénomination Kelcosol par la société ISP ; As examples of polysaccharides of vegetable origin that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: a) extracts of algae, such as alginates, carrageenans, agar agars, and mixtures thereof. As examples of carrageenans, mention may be made of Satiagum UTC30 and UTC10 from Degussa; as alginates, mention may be made of sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol by the company ISP;
b) des gommes, telles que la gomme de guar et leurs dérivés non ioniques (hydroxypropyl guar), la gomme arabique, la gomme de konjac ou mannane, la gomme Tragacanthe, la gomme Ghatti, la gomme Karaya, la gomme de caroube ; comme exemples, on peut citer la gomme de guar commercialisée sous la dénomination Jaguar HP105 par la société Rhodia ; la gomme de mannane et konjac (1% de glucomannane) commercialisée par la société GfN ; (b) gums, such as guar gum and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum; as examples, mention may be made of guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105 by the company Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac (1% glucomannan) marketed by GfN;
c) les amidons modifiés ou non, tels que ceux issus, par exemple, de céréales comme le blé, le maïs ou le riz, de légumes comme le pois blond, de tubercules comme les pommes de terre ou le manioc, les amidons de tapioca ; des dextrines, telles que les dextrines de mais ; comme exemples, on peut citer notamment l'amidon de riz Remy DR 1 commercialisé par la société Remy ; l'amidon de maïs B de la société Roquette ; la fécule de pomme de terre modifiée par l'acide 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionique neutralisé à la soude commercialisé sous la dénomination Structure Solanace par la société National Starch ; la poudre d'amidon de tapioca natif commercialisée sous la dénomination Tapioca pure par la société National Starch ; d) les dextrines, telles que la dextrine extraite de maïs sous la dénomination Index de la société National Starch ; (c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, maize or rice, from vegetables such as sweet peas, tubers such as potatoes or cassava, tapioca starches ; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; as examples, mention may in particular be made of Remy DR 1 rice starch marketed by Remy; cornstarch B from Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with soda sold under the name Structure Solanace by the company National Starch; the native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure by the company National Starch; d) dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index from National Starch;
e) les celluloses et leurs dérivés, en particulier les alkyle ou hydroxyalkyle celluloses ; on peut citer notamment les méthylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, éthylhydroxyéthylcelluloses, carboxyméthyl-celluloses. Comme exemples, on peut citer les cetyl hydroxy ethyl cellulose sous les dénominations Polysurf 67CS et Natrosol Plus 330 d'Aqualon ; e) celluloses and their derivatives, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; mention may in particular be made of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. As examples, mention may be made of cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose under the names Polysurf 67CS and Natrosol Plus 330 from Aqualon;
et leurs mélanges.35 Selon un mode de réalisation, la composition selon l'invention comprend moins de 1,5% en poids de polymères épaississants ou gélifiants synthétiques, de préférence moins de 1%, mieux moins de 0,5%, voire moins de 0,2% en poids. Elle peut être totalement exempte de polymères épaississants ou gélifiants synthétiques. and mixtures thereof According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1.5% by weight of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers, preferably less than 1%, better still less than 0.5%, or even less 0.2% by weight. It can be completely free of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers.
De tels polymères synthétiques sont par exemple des polymères acryliques (famille des Carbopol), des copolymères acryliques/alkyl acrylates ou des (co)polymères à base d'acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique (par exemple les polymères commercialisés sous la dénomination Pemulen, Sepigel ou Simulgel, Aristoflex). Such synthetic polymers are, for example, acrylic polymers (Carbopol family), acrylic / alkyl acrylate copolymers or (co) polymers based on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (for example the polymers sold under the name Pemulen). , Sepigel or Simulgel, Aristoflex).
Phase qrasse Phase qrasse
La phase grasse de la composition selon l'invention comprend l'ensemble des composés liposolubles ou lipodispersibles présents dans la composition, incluant les corps gras liquides à température ambiante (25°C) ou huiles (qui forment la phase huileuse), et notamment l'alcane linéaire volatile, les corps gras solides à température ambiante tels que les cires, ou encore des composés pâteux, des alcools gras, des acides gras. The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises all liposoluble or lipodispersible compounds present in the composition, including fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) or oils (which form the oily phase), and especially the linear volatile alkane, solid fatty substances at room temperature such as waxes, or pasty compounds, fatty alcohols, fatty acids.
Ainsi, la composition selon l'invention peut comprendre, outre l'alcane linéaire volatile, une huile dite additionnelle, qui peut être présente en une teneur allant de 0,5 à 40% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 1 à 30% en poids et mieux de 5 à 25% en poids. Thus, the composition according to the invention may comprise, besides the volatile linear alkane, an additional oil, which may be present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 1 to 30% by weight and more preferably 5 to 25% by weight.
Comme huiles utilisables dans la composition de l'invention, on peut citer par exemple : - les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine animale, telles que le perhydrosqualène ; - les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine végétale, telles que les triglycérides liquides d'acides gras comportant de 4 à 30 atomes de carbone comme les triglycérides des acides heptanoïque ou octanoïque ou encore, par exemple, les huiles de jojoba, de babassu, de tournesol, d'olive, de noix de coco, de noix du brésil, de marula, de maïs, de soja, de courge, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de noisette, d'abricot, de macadamia, d'arara, de coriandre, de ricin, d'avocat, les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique comme ceux commercialisés par la société Stearineries Dubois ou ceux commercialisés sous les dénominations Miglyol 810, 812 et 818 par la société Dynamit Nobel, l'huile de beurre de karité; - les esters et les éthers de synthèse, notamment d'acides gras, comme les huiles de formules R'COOR2 et R'OR2 dans laquelle R' représente le reste d'un acide gras ou d'un alcool gras comportant de 8 à 29 atomes de carbone, et R2 représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée, ramifiée ou non, contenant de 3 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme par exemple l'huile de Purcellin, le stéarate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'érucate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle ; les esters hydroxylés comme l'isostéaryl lactate, l'octylhydroxystéarate, l'hydroxystéarate d'octyldodécyle, le diisostéaryl-malate, le citrate de triisocétyle, les heptanoates, octanoates, décanoates d'alcools gras ; les esters de polyol, comme le dioctanoate de propylène glycol, le diheptanoate de néopentylglycol et le diisononanoate de diéthylèneglycol ; et les esters du pentaérythritol comme le tétraisostéarate de pentaérythrytyle ; - les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique, tels que les huiles de paraffine, volatiles ou non, et leurs dérivés, la vaseline, les polydécènes, l'isohexadecane, l'isododecane, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que l'huile de Parléam As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, jojoba, babassu and sunflower oils; , olive, coconut, brazil nuts, marula, maize, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those marketed by Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid or of a fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, Purcellin oil, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl erucate or 2-dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil
- les huiles de silicone comme les polyméthylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatiles ou non à chaîne siliconée linéaire ou cyclique, liquides ou pâteux à température ambiante, notamment les huiles de silicone volatiles, en particulier cyclopolydiméthylsiloxanes (cyclométhicones) telles que le cyclohexadiméthylsiloxane et le cyclopentadiméthylsiloxane ; les polydiméthyl-siloxanes comportant des groupements alkyle, alcoxy ou phényle, pendant ou en bout de chaîne siliconée, groupements ayant de 2 à 24 atomes de carbone ; les silicones phénylées comme les phényltriméthicones, les phényldiméthicones, les phényltriméthylsiloxydiphényl-siloxanes, les diphényldiméthicones, les diphénylméthyldiphényl trisiloxanes, les 2-phényléthyltriméthylsiloxysilicates, et les polyméthylphénylsiloxanes ; - leurs mélanges. silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular volatile silicone oils, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.
On peut citer également les huiles suivantes : - les esters issus de la réaction d'au moins un acide gras comportant au moins 6 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 6 à 26 atomes de carbone et mieux de 6 à 20 atomes de carbone, encore mieux de 6 à 16 atomes de carbone et d'au moins un alcool comprenant de 1 à 17 atomes de carbone et mieux de 3 à 15 atomes de carbone ; on peut citer notamment le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'isopropyle le caprate/caprylate d'ethyl2-hexyle (ou caprate/caprylate d'octyle), le palmitate d'éthyl-2-hexyle, le néopentanoate d'isostéaryle, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, le laurate d'hexyle, les esters d'acide lactique et d'alcools gras comprenant 12 ou 13 atomes de carbone, le carbonate de dicaprylyle tel que celui qui est commercialisé sous la dénomination CETIOL CC par la société COGNIS, - les éthers d'acide gras comprenant de 6 à 20 atomes de carbone tel que le dicaprylyl éther (Cetiol OE de Cognis), - les éthers de glycérol comprenant de 6 à 12 atomes de carbone comme le 2-éthyl hexyle éther de glycérol ( nom INCI : ethylhexylglycerin) tel que le Sensiva SC 50 de la société Schulke & Mayr GmbH. De préférence, l'huile additionnelle contient est choisie parmi les huiles végétales, notamment l'huile de coco, l'huile de Babassu, l'huile d'olive, l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de beurre de karité et leurs mélanges. De préférence, la phase huileuse de la composition (comprenant les huiles) est composée exclusivement d'huiles d'origine végétale. Mention may also be made of the following oils: esters derived from the reaction of at least one fatty acid containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms and better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and from at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and better still from 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl 2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate, such as that marketed under the name CETIOL CC by the company COGNIS, - fatty acid ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis), - glycerol ethers containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethyl hexyl ether, glycerol (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin) such as Sensiva SC 50 from Schulke & Mayr GmbH. Preferably, the additional oil contains is chosen from vegetable oils, in particular coconut oil, Babassu oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil and their derivatives. mixtures. Preferably, the oily phase of the composition (including the oils) is composed exclusively of vegetable oils.
La composition selon l'invention peut présenter une teneur totale en huiles (incluant les alcanes linéaires volatiles et les huiles additionnelles), allant de 0,5 à 95% en poids, de préférence de 1 à 60% en poids et mieux de 5 à 30% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Enp particulier, la teneur totale en huiles dans la composition selon l'invention est supérieure ou égale à 5%, de préférence supérieure ou égale à 10%, et mieux supérieure ou égale à 13% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The composition according to the invention may have a total content of oils (including volatile linear alkanes and additional oils), ranging from 0.5 to 95% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight and better still from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the total content of oils in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 5%, preferably greater than or equal to 10%, and better still greater than or equal to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .
Les compositions cosmétiques de l'invention peuvent, en outre, contenir des adjuvants habituels dans le domaine cosmétique, tels que les antioxydants, les conservateurs, les parfums, les peptisants de parfums, les matières colorantes, les charges, les actifs hydrophiles ou lipophiles. La nature des adjuvants et leurs quantités doivent être telles qu'elles ne modifient pas les propriétés de la composition selon l'invention. Les quantités de ces adjuvants sont celles classiquement utilisées dans le domaine cosmétique et par exemple de 0,001 à 10 % du poids total de la composition. The cosmetic compositions of the invention may, in addition, contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, perfume peptizers, dyestuffs, fillers, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents. The nature of the adjuvants and their amounts must be such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. The amounts of these adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field and, for example, from 0.001 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.
Comme actifs utilisables dans la composition de l'invention, on peut citer par exemple les agents apaisants comme l'allantoïne et le bisabolol ; les eaux florales telles que l'eau de tilleul ou l'eau de bleuet ; l'acide glycyrrhétinique et ses sels ; les antibactériens comme l'octopirox, le triclosan et le triclocarban ; les huiles essentielles ; les vitamines telles que par exemple le rétinol (vitamine A), l'acide ascorbique (vitamine C), le tocophérol (vitamine E), la niacinamide (vitamine PP ou B3), le panthénol (vitamine B5) et leurs dérivés tels que par exemple les esters de ces vitamines (palmitate, acétate, propionate), l'ascorbyl phosphate de magnésium, la vitamine C glycosylée ou acide glucopyranosyl ascorbique (Ascorbyl glucoside) ; les co-enzymes tels que le co-enzyme Q10 ou ubiquinone et le co-enzyme R ou biotine ; les hydrolysats de protéine ; les extraits végétaux et notamment les extraits de plancton ; et leurs mélanges. As active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of soothing agents such as allantoin and bisabolol; floral waters such as linden water or cornflower water; glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts; antibacterials such as octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils ; vitamins such as for example retinol (vitamin A), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E), niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3), panthenol (vitamin B5) and their derivatives such as by examples are the esters of these vitamins (palmitate, acetate, propionate), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated vitamin C or glucopyranosyl ascorbic acid (Ascorbyl glucoside); coenzymes such as coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone and coenzyme R or biotin; protein hydrolysates; plant extracts and in particular plankton extracts; and their mixtures.
Bien entendu, l'homme de l'art veillera à choisir le ou les éventuels additifs à ajouter à la composition selon l'invention de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses attachées intrinsèquement à la composition conforme à l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par l'addition envisagée. Comme charges, on peut citer les charges minérales telles que le talc ou silicate de magnésium (granulométrie: 5 microns) commercialisé sous la dénomination LUZENAC 15 M00 par la société LUZENAC, le kaolin ou silicate d'aluminium comme par exemple celui commercialisé sous la dénomination KAOLIN SUPREME par la société IMERYS, ou les charges organiques telles que l'amidon comme par exemple le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination AMIDON DE MAIS B par la société ROQUETTE, les microsphères de Nylon comme celles commercialisées sous la dénomination ORGASOL 2002 UD NAT COS par la société ATOCHEM, les microsphères à base de copolymère de chlorure de vinylidene/Acrylonitrile/methacrylonitrile enfermant de l'isobutane, expansées comme celles commercialisées sous la dénomination EXPANCEL 551 DE par la société EXPANCEL. On peut ajouter aussi à la composition de l'invention des fibres comme par exemple des fibres de nylon (POLYAMIDE 0.9 DTEX 0.3 MM commercialisé par les Etablissements PAUL BONTE, des fibres de cellulose ou Rayonne (RAYON FLOCK RCISE NO003 MO4 commercialisé par la société CLAREMONT FLOCK CORPORATION). Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additive (s) to be added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the proposed addition. As fillers, mention may be made of mineral fillers such as talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) marketed under the name LUZENAC 15 M00 by the company LUZENAC, kaolin or aluminum silicate such as for example that marketed under the name KAOLIN SUPREME by the company IMERYS, or organic fillers such as starch, for example the product marketed under the name Amidon de Maisi B by Roquette, the nylon microspheres sold under the name ORGASOL 2002 UD NAT COS by the ATOCHEM company, the microspheres based on vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methacrylonitrile copolymer enclosing isobutane, expanded such as those sold under the name Expancel 551 DE by Expancel. Fibers such as for example nylon fibers (0.9 DTEX POLYAMIDE 0.3 MM sold by PAUL BONTE Establishments, cellulose fibers or Rayon (RAYON FLOCK RCISE NO003 MO4 marketed by CLAREMONT) can also be added to the composition of the invention. FLOCK CORPORATION).
Les compositions selon l'invention sont destinées à être appliquée sur les matières kératiniques telles que la peau (corps, visage, yeux, cuir chevelu) et/ou les fibres kétatiniques et peuvent constituer notamment des produits de soin, de maquillage, de démaquillage ou de nettoyage des matières kératiniques, ou des produits capillaires. The compositions according to the invention are intended to be applied to keratinous substances such as the skin (body, face, eyes, scalp) and / or ketatinic fibers and may constitute in particular care products, make-up products, make-up removers or cleaning keratin materials, or hair products.
Un autre objet de l'invention est un procédé cosmétique de traitement cosmétique des matières kératiniques telles que la peau, y compris du cuir chevelu, des fibres kératiniques telles que les cils, les cheveux, et/ou des lèvres, caractérisé par le fait qu'on applique sur lesdites matières kératiniques, une composition cosmétique telle que définie ci-dessus. Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as the skin, including the scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, hair, and / or lips, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to said keratin materials.
Les exemples suivants sont donnés à titre d'illustration de l'invention et n'ont pas de caractère limitatif. Toutes les quantités sont données en pourcentage en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les noms des composés sont indiqués selon les cas en noms chimiques ou en noms INCI. The following examples are given by way of illustration of the invention and are not limiting in nature. All amounts are given in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The names of the compounds are indicated according to the case in chemical names or in INCI names.
Exemples 1 à 3 : Crèmes de soin visage Ex.1 Ex.2 Ex.3 (invention) (comparatif) (comparatif) % en matières actives A Eau qsp 100% qsp 100% qsp 100% Al Glycerine 8,8 8,8 8,8 Xanthane 0,17 0,17 0,17 Acide Salicylique 0,2 0,2 0,2 Sorbate de Potassium 0,3 0,3 0,3 Sucrose stearate (TEGOSOFT PSE 3,9 - - 141G de GOLDSCHMIDT Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose - 3,9 - distearate (Tegocare 450 d'Evonik) Cetearyl glucoside (Tegocare CG 90 - - 3,9 d'Evonik) Glyceryl stearate citrate 1,5 1,5 1,5 Stearyl alcohol 2 2 2 Shea butter 2 2 2 B Babassu oil 3 3 3 Coconut oil 2 2 2 Olive oil 2 2 2 Jojoba oil 4 4 4 Mélange de undécane : tridécane dans 4 4 4 lequel le n-undécane est majoritaire, tel que préparé selon la demande W02008/155059 Tocopherol 0,05 0,05 0,05 Benzyl alcohol 0,7 0,7 0,7 Sodium levulinate 0,68 0,68 0,68 Sodium anisate 0,2 0,2 0,2 C Silica 3 3 3 Chic acid qsp pH 5,2 +/- qsp pH 5,2 +/- qsp pH 5,2 +/- 0,2 0,2 0,2 Mode opératoire: Examples 1 to 3: Face care creams Ex.1 Ex.2 Ex.3 (invention) (comparative) (comparative)% of active ingredients A Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Al Glycerine 8.8 8.8 8.8 Xanthan 0.17 0.17 0.17 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 Potassium sorbate 0.3 0.3 0.3 Sucrose stearate (TEGOSOFT PSE 3.9 - - 141G from GOLDSCHMIDT Polyglyceryl -3 methylglucose - 3.9 - distearate (Evonik's Tegocare 450) Cetearyl glucoside (Tegocare CG 90 - - 3.9 from Evonik) Glyceryl stearate citrate 1.5 1.5 1.5 Stearyl alcohol 2 2 2 Shea butter 2 2 2 B Babassu oil 3 3 3 Coconut oil 2 2 2 Olive oil 2 2 2 Jojoba oil 4 4 4 Mixture of undecane: tridecane in 4 4 4, of which n-undecane is predominant, as prepared according to application WO2008 / 155059 Tocopherol 0.05 0.05 0.05 Benzyl alcohol 0.7 0.7 0.7 Sodium levulinate 0.68 0.68 0.68 Sodium anisate 0.2 0.2 0.2 C Silica 3 3 3 Chic acid qsp pH 5.2 +/- qs pH 5.2 +/- qs pH 5.2 +/- 0.2 0.2 0.2 Procedure:
On mélange la gomme de xanthane et la glycérine, que l'on ajoute dans la phase A puis on ajoute la phase A2 et on chauffe l'ensemble à 65°C. Xanthan gum and glycerine are mixed, added to phase A, then phase A2 is added and the mixture is heated to 65 ° C.
On mélange et on chauffe les composés de la phase B à 75 ù 80°C puis on ajoute la phase B à la phase A sous faible agitation et on laisse refroidir tout en maintenant l'agitation. On ajoute la phase C lorsque le mélange est revenu à 35 ù 40°C. The compounds of phase B are mixed and heated at 75 ° to 80 ° C., then phase B is added to phase A with gentle stirring and allowed to cool while maintaining stirring. Phase C is added when the mixture is returned to 35-40 ° C.
5 personnes qualifiées ont évalué les propriétés sensorielles de chaque composition des exemples 1 à 3 en appliquant la composition testée sur le dos de la main. La composition de l'exemple 1 a été jugée comme apportant une sensation plus émolliente à l'application, une pénétration plus rapide que les compositions des exemples comparatifs 2 et 3, en outre elle ne laisse pas de film gras sur la peau, contrairement aux compositions 2 et 3. 1815 5 skilled persons evaluated the sensory properties of each composition of Examples 1 to 3 by applying the test composition to the back of the hand. The composition of Example 1 was judged to provide a more emollient feel to the application, a faster penetration than the compositions of Comparative Examples 2 and 3, and it does not leave a greasy film on the skin, contrary to compositions 2 and 3. 1815
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