FR2891456A1 - Cosmetic composition in oil-in-water emulsion form, useful as e.g. skin care and make-up products, comprises a polymeric surfactant and a tetrapolymer of methacrylic acid, methyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate and alkyl(meth)acrylate - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition for topical application present in an oil-in-water emulsion form, where an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprises at least a polymeric surfactant and at least a tetrapolymer of methacrylic acid, methyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate and alkyl(having 10-20 carbon atoms)(meth)acrylate. Composition for topical application present in an oil-in-water emulsion form, where an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprises at least a polymeric surfactant of formula R3-C(=O)-N(Y1)-R2-[N(X)(C(=O)(R1))] nand at least a tetrapolymer of methacrylic acid, methyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate and alkyl(having 10-20 carbon atoms)(meth)acrylate. R1, R3 : 1-25C alkyl (preferably 8-20C alkyl e.g. cocoyl); R2 : optionally branched 1-12C alkylene linker; X, Y1 : (C 2H 4O) a-(C 3H 6O) bZ; Z : H or CH 2-COOM, SO 3M, -P(O)(OM) 2, C 2H 4-SO 3M, C 3H 6-SO 3M or CH 2(CHOH) 4CH 2OH; M : H or (alkaline)earth metal ion or (alkanol)ammonium ion; a : 0-15; b : 0-10; and n : 1-10. Provided that that the sum of a and b is 1-25.

Description

(I)

  The present invention relates to an O / W emulsion comprising a gemini surfactant and a particular polymer, and to the use of said emulsion for the care, removal of make-up and / or cleaning of the emulsion. skin of the body or of the face, including lips and / or eyes (eyelids), and also for the care of the hair, and more particularly to the use of the said emulsion for the hydration of the skin and the care of the skin. dry and / or sensitive skin.

  It is known to use in cosmetic compositions, geminated surfactants. By "geminate surfactant" is meant in the context of the present invention, compounds comprising two hydrophilic heads and two hydrophobic tails interconnected by a spacer. These surfactants have already been described as being useful in cosmetic compositions (WO-A-96/14926), in particular in hair or skin cleansing compositions (EP-0 915 945), or in used pearl concentrates. in cleaning compositions, optionally in combination with hydroxy acids and vitamins such as retinol or tocopherol or their derivatives such as diascorbyl palmitate (WO-A-01/74979).

  The geminate surfactants have a very particular structure since they comprise two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, which gives them not only surfactant properties but also very appreciated properties related to their particular structure which is close to that of the ceramides, which allows them to have properties similar to these, in particular moisturizing properties, without the disadvantages of formulating ceramides which are difficult to incorporate and can form crystals. Moreover, these geminal surfactants have a very low surface tension, and they have good emulsifying properties for the preparation of oil-water (O / W) emulsions. In addition, they are flexible molecules of very small size, close to that of micelles, and they are much less irritating than other surfactants. In addition, they have a very good affinity with the skin and the hair, reduce lipoperoxidation, that is to say the oxidation of lipids that protect the hair, this oxidation causing dehydration and loss of color. In addition, they are excellent wetting agents.

  However, when they are used in O / W emulsions containing a large amount of oily phase, these surfactants have the disadvantage of giving compositions which do not have good cosmetic properties. Indeed, the compositions obtained are heavy on application because they do not slide well on the skin, they spread poorly and they are judged as absorbed too quickly. As a result, these emulsions are not fresh enough, and once absorbed on the skin, a braking and rough effect is observed. The consumer therefore has a negative feeling when applied to the skin, despite good moisturizing properties.

  There is therefore still a need for an O / W emulsion containing a gemini surfactant, which has good cosmetic properties, especially when it contains a high level of oily phase. The desired cosmetic properties are a pleasant and gentle effect on application, a cool effect, no braking or rough effect, and a good slip when applied to the skin.

  The applicant surprisingly discovered that the problem could be solved by combining the gemini surfactant, a particular polymer.

  The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition for topical application, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, containing (1) at least one gemini surfactant of formula (I):

O

R2 NR n

N I

Y (I)

  in which: R1 and R3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y denote, independently of one another, a group (C2H40) a- (C3H60) bZ where EZ denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH2-000M, -SO3M, -P (O) radical; (OM) 2, C2H4-SO3M, C3H6-SO3M or CH2 (CHOH) 4CH2OH, where M, M 'are H or an alkaline or alkaline-earth ion or ammonium or alkanolammonium, E avade0 to 15, E bvade0 to 10, and E the sum a + b ranges from 1 to 25; and - nvade 1 to 10, and (2) at least one tetrapolymer of methacrylic acid, methyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate and C16 alkyl (meth) acrylate. C20.

  The O / W emulsion obtained has good cosmetic properties because it gives a cool effect, has no braking or rough effect, and slides easily when applied to the skin without leaving a greasy film.

  Furthermore, the presence of the gemini surfactant has the advantage of improving the cosmetic properties of an O / W emulsion containing a tetrapolymer as claimed, with respect to the same emulsion containing a surfactant other than a geminated surfactant. Indeed, the O / W emulsions containing this tetrapolymer tend to give a significant quick-break effect, and the addition of the geminate surfactant decreases this effect. The quick-break effect results in the rapid release of the fatty phase in the form of oil droplets, so that the cream slides on the skin. But, when this effect is too important, the cream patinas when applied to the skin, and too much oil droplets can create an unpleasant film resulting in shiny skin, and making it difficult to absorb oil. The addition of the geminate surfactant allows a faster penetration of the emulsion without the presence of a greasy film remaining.

  The composition of the invention also has very good moisturizing properties, a significant barrier effect, while being well tolerated and pleasant to use (immediate comfort). A significant decrease in dryness and roughness of the skin was observed compared to a similar O / W emulsion containing no tetrapolymer.

  The composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin and / or the superficial body growths. It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), divert the consumer from using this composition. \ 4 \ \ \\ \\ \\ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ ' Q \\ v \ v \ v \ v \ \ v \ \ va,. \: \ .. vJ.,. \ V \ vvvi \ avv \ v N ...,. The gemini surfactant of formula (I) used according to the invention is preferably such that each of the groups R 1 -CO and R 3 -CO- comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes a coconut fatty acid residue (mainly comprising auric acid and myristic acid).

  Furthermore, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has an average value ranging from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the grouping. -SO3M where M is preferably an alkaline ion such as a sodium ion.

  The spacer R2 is advantageously constituted of a linear alkylene chain C1-C3, and preferably an ethylene chain (CH2CH2).

  Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.

  A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name: Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure:

O

  II, (PEG-15) SO3Na cocoyl C N CH2 H2 CH2 H2 cocoyl C N - (PEG-15) SO3Na I I

O

  It being understood that PEG represents the group OCH2CH2, and cocoyl represents the rest of coconut fatty acids.

  This surfactant has a molecular structure very close to that of ceramide-3.

  Preferably, the geminate surfactant according to the invention is used in admixture with other surfactants, and especially in admixture with (a) a C 6 -C 22 fatty acid ester (preferably a C 14 -C 20 fatty acid ester such as a stearate ) and glyceryl, (b) a C6-C22 fatty acid diester (preferably C14-C20 such as a stearate) and citric acid and glycerol, and (c) a C10-fatty alcohol. C30 (preferably behenyl alcohol).

  More preferably, the geminate surfactant according to the invention represents from 10 to 20% by weight, and advantageously 15% by weight; the fatty acid C 6 -C 22 and glyceryl ester represents from 30 to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight; the C 6 -C 22 fatty acid diester and citric acid and glycerol represent from 10 to 20% by weight, advantageously 15% by weight; and the fatty alcohol C10-C30 represents from 30 to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the surfactant mixture containing the geminate surfactant.

  Alternatively, the geminate surfactant according to the invention may be used in admixture with an anionic surfactant such as a lauric acid ester, sodium lauryl lactate. In this case, the gemini surfactant preferably represents from 30 to 50% by weight, and the anionic surfactant represents from 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.

  For example, the geminate surfactant may be used in admixture with other surfactants in the form of the products sold by SASOL under the names CERALUTION, and in particular the following products: Ceration H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Equalization F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate.

  Cerulution C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabic, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI denominations) This gemini surfactant represents from 3 to 50% of the weight of these mixtures.

  The amount (of active material) of gemini surfactant incorporated in the composition according to the invention can vary to a large extent depending on the desired effect. To give an order of magnitude, the composition may contain from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight of gemini surfactant and better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition, which represents a quantity of ceralution of about 0.2 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight and better still 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .

  Tetrapolymer The tetrapolymer used according to the invention comprises, as monomers, methacrylic acid, methyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate and a C16-C20 alkyl (meth) acrylate, it preferably contains (a) 0 5 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 2% by weight, of methacrylic acid, (b) 10 to 90% by weight, preferably 10 to 40% by weight of methyl methacrylate, (c) 10 to 90% by weight, preferably 30 to 50% by weight, of butyl acrylate, and (d) 25 to 75% by weight, preferably 25 to 35% by weight, of (meth) acrylate. C16-C20 alkyls The total of (a) + (b) + (c) + (d) is 100%.

  By "C16-C20 alkyl (meth) acrylates" is meant one or more monomers consisting of alkyl acrylate or alkyl methacrylate or a mixture of alkyl acrylate and alkyl methacrylate wherein the alkyl chain contains from 16 to 20 carbon atoms and is preferably a mixture of monomers consisting of C16, C18 and C20 alkyl acrylate and C16, C18 alkyl methacrylate. The alkyl (meth) acrylates used in the composition of the invention preferably comprise a mixture of cetyl methacrylate and eicosyl acrylate with, for example, also stearyl acrylate, for example 35% by weight of cetyl methacrylate, 55 to 65% by weight of stearyl acrylate and 5 to 15% by weight of eicosyl acrylate.

  Tetrapolymers as defined above, as well as their method of preparation, are in particular described in application US 2003/0021847.

  These tetrapolymers can be prepared by emulsion polymerization of the monomers indicated above in the presence of a free radical initiator, such as hydrogen peroxide, tert-butyl hydroperoxide, or sodium persulfate, potassium, lithium or ammonium the initiator optionally being combined with a reducing agent to form a redox system and a catalyst consisting of a transition metal such as a copper or iron salt. The reaction may for example be carried out at a temperature of between 10 and 120 ° C., preferably close to 85 ° C., for a period of approximately three hours.

  A tetrapolymer of this type is in particular available from ROHM & HAAS under the trade name Allianz OPT in the form of a 48% aqueous glycolic dispersion and containing 6% of propylene glycol (INCI name: Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl methacrylate Copolymer (and) Propylene Glycol).

  The amount of tetrapolymer (of active material) in the composition according to the invention may range, for example, from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2%. by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 1% by weight of tetrapolymer, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The tetrapolymer is generally introduced into the aqueous phase before forming the emulsion.

  Oily phase The oily phase consists of oils and all the other fatty substances and lipophilic constituents that may be present in the composition of the invention.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oily phase contains at least one oil. The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.).

  As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearate octyl-2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631); linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

  By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

  The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene and polymethylene waxes , Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; silicone gums (dimethiconol), and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 or EPSX by the company Dow Corning or under the names Gransil by the company Grant industries.

  These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

  The oily phase generally represents from 10 to 50% by weight and preferably from 15 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Aqueous phase In a conventional manner, the aqueous phase may contain, in addition to water, one or more water-soluble solvents chosen from polyols (or polyhydric alcohols), water-soluble lower alcohols (s) and mixtures thereof. By lower alcohol is meant an alcohol having 1 to 8 carbon atoms. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerine; glycols such as pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol and polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol; sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, sucrose; and their mixtures. Lower alcohols include, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, butanol and mixtures thereof. When present in the composition of the invention, the solvent (s) may be in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight and better still 0.5 to 0.15 by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the desired property for the composition of the invention.

  The pH of the composition should be skin compatible and preferably from 4.5 to 8, more preferably from 5 to 7.5 and most preferably from 5.5 to 7.

  Additives The composition according to the invention may also contain any adjuvant or additive usually used in the fields in question and in particular in the cosmetic or dermatological fields.

  Among the conventional adjuvants that may be present in the compositions used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of preservatives such as parabens and phenoxyethanol; sequestering agents (EDTA); antioxidants; the perfumes; coloring matters such as soluble dyes, pigments and nacres; mattifying, tensing, whitening or exfoliating fillers; solar filters; hydrophilic or lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active agents; polymers; electrolytes. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

  As active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of water-soluble or fat-soluble vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and vitamin B5 (panthenol). ), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; antiseptics; anti-bacterial active agents such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban); antisebohrreics; antimicrobials such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, triclosan, azelaic acid, niacin (PP vit); slimming agents such as caffeine; optical brighteners; moisturizers such as polyols such as glycerine and urea derivatives such as the compounds of formula: ## STR2 ## in which: R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent from each other, a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl group which may contain from 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups, wherein at least one of R 1 to R 4 represents a group hydroxyalkyl, as well as their salts, their solvates, and their isomers, such as in particular N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -urea marketed under the name Hydrovance by the company National Starch; soothing agents such as bisabolol and soothing plant extracts such as rose extract (rosa gallica) and mint extracts (mentha piperita); and any suitable active for the final purpose of the composition, and mixtures thereof.

  The amount of assets depends on the purpose. The active agent (s) may for example be present in a concentration ranging from 0.001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.05% to 5% of the total weight of the composition.

  Depending on the fluidity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, one or more hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents may be incorporated in the composition. The hydrophilic gelling agents, that is to say those which are soluble or dispersible in water, may be chosen for example from modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: carbomer) and Pemulen (name INCI: Acrylates / C10-30 akyl acrylate crosspolymer) by the company Noveon; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the name Hostacerin AMPS (INCI name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers such as guar gum, alginates, modified or unmodified celluloses; and their mixtures. These gelling agents may be present in an amount ranging for example from 0.001 to 2 by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of silica; zinc oxides; titanium oxides such as titanium dioxide; micas of natural or synthetic origin; calcium carbonate; carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbonate; silica microbeads such as those sold under the name SB150 by the company Myoshi; talcum; kaolin; glass and ceramic beads marketed by 3M under the trade name MACROLITE; metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acid having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate ; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the names ORGASOL by the company Atochem; unexpanded synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polystyrene, polyester, polyamide powders (for example nylon or poly-R-alanine), copolymers of acrylates (for example microporous microspheres sold by Dow Corning under the trade name POLYTRAP), polymethacrylic acids, Teflon (polytetrafluoroethylene) such as the products sold under the names FLUON by Uniqema; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres made of thermoplastic material prepared by known processes, such as those described in US-A-3,615,972 and EP-A-0 56219, and in particular, the microspheres sold under the names Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or not, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY-FLO by the company National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. When present, these fillers may be in amounts ranging from 0.001 to 5 by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention may also optionally contain surfactants other than the gemini surfactant, in particular nonionic surfactants, in particular those chosen from saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid and polyol esters comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms. carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene units, such as glyceryl and C 8 -C 24 fatty acid esters, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their derivativesoxyalkylenated; esters of sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglucose) and C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

  Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound (s) to be added to the compositions according to the invention, as well as their concentration, in such a way that the advantageous properties of these compositions are not, or not substantially, altered by the proposed addition.

  The composition according to the invention may be in the form of milk, or more or less fluid cream. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition constitutes a more or less fluid cream. Thus, this composition preferably has a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from about 10 to 150 poise (1 to 15 Pa) and preferably about 15 to 100 poise (1.5 to 10 Pa. preferably 20 to 50 poises (2 to 5 Pa. $), this viscosity being measured with a Rheomat 180 device at 25 C with the appropriate mobiles (mobile 3 for fluid compositions and mobile 4 for creams).

  The compositions of the invention can be used on all keratin materials such as the skin, the scalp, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails or the mucous membranes. They can be used as a skin care product, for example as a protective, treatment or facial cream, for the hands or for the body, as body protection or skin care milk, leather hair or mucous membranes, or as a hygiene product, for example as a cleansing product for the skin or mucous membranes, or as a hair care product or as a solar product.

  The compositions may also constitute products for the make-up of the skin and / or the hair, for example by incorporating pigments into the composition to constitute, in particular, foundations.

  The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above as a skin care product, as a hygiene product, as a hair care product, as a sun product and as a makeup product.

  Another subject of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, such as the skin, the scalp, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails or the mucous membranes, characterized by the fact that applies to the keratin material, a composition as defined above.

  The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for moisturizing the skin, characterized in that a composition as defined above is applied to the keratinous material. The composition thus allows the maintenance of the barrier function and a good treatment of dry skin.

  The examples given below will make it possible to better understand the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The quantities indicated are in percentage by weight unless otherwise indicated. The names are in chemical name, trade name and INCI name according to the compounds.

Example 1

Composition Example 1

PHASE I

  Parleam 7 Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate oil (Prororin 3631) 4 Dimethicone 0.5 Cyclohexasiloxane 6 Apricot oil 3 Methylene wax (Synthetic wax) 1 Methylparaben 0.25 Caprylglycol (or 1,2-octane diol) 0, 3 Vitamin E 0 5 Ceralution H 3 (ie about 0.45% Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine 1.5 PEG-15 sulfate) 1 Squalane Paraffin Oil

PHASE II

  Water Qsp 100 Allianze OPT 1.5 Hostacerin AMPS 1.8 Glycerin 6 Propylene glycol 2.5 Hydrovance 4 Triethanolamine 0.03

PHASE III

  Silica (sunspheres H51) 0.3 Plastic powder 0.3

PHASE IV

  Bisabolol 0.3 Rosa gallica extract 0.6 Extait de mentha piperita 0.5 HMW 2200 0.2 Procedure: Phase II is heated to 45 ° C. When the gel is formed, the previously heated phase I is added to 70 ° C. The mixture is mixed and, once the emulsion has been formed, the other phases are added in the indicated order (III and then IV).

  A white cream of shiny and smooth appearance is obtained, which is homogeneous and spreads well. It is well suited as a skin care cream and is suitable for sensitive skin.

Example 2

Composition Example 2

PHASEI

  Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate (Prororin 3631) 4 C12-15 alkyl benzoate (Tegosoft TN) 5 Dimethicone 1 Caprylic / capric acid triglycerides (85/15) 4 (Myglyol 812) 8 Cyclopentasiloxane Shea butter 1,2 Polymethylene wax (Synthetic wax ) 0.5 Methylparaben 0.25 Caprylyl glycol 0.25 Vitamin E 0.4 Stearyl dimethicone (emollient) 3 Ceration H 5 (About 0.75% Sodium dicocoyl-1 ethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate) Dimethiconol

PHASE II

  Water Qsp 100 Allianz OPT 1.2 Hostacerin AMPS 1.5 Glycerin 4 Propylene Glycol 2 Butylene Glycol 3 Triethanolamine 0.02

PHASE III

0.4 Silica

PHASE IV

  Bisabolol 0.5 Mentha piperita extract 0.4 Procedure: Phase II is heated to 45 ° C. When the gel is formed, the previously heated phase I is added to 70 ° C. The mixture is mixed and, once the emulsion has been formed, the other phases are added in the indicated order (III and then IV).

  A white cream with a shiny and smooth appearance is obtained which is homogeneous. It spreads easily and is soft to the touch, and it is well suited as a skin care cream and is suitable for sensitive skin.

Claims (18)

  1. Composition for topical application, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, containing (1) at least one gemini surfactant of formula (I): (I) in which: R 1 and R 3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y denote, independently of one another, a group (C2H40) a- (C3Hg0) pZ where EZ denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH2-COOM radical, -SO3M, -P (0) (OM) 2, C2H4-SO3M, C3H6-SO3M or CH2 (CHOH) 4CH2OH, where M, M 'are H or an alkaline or alkaline earth or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, is from 15, is from 10, and E the sum of a + b is from 1 to 25; and - nvade1 to 10, and (2) at least one tetrapolymer of methacrylic acid, methyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate and (meth) acrylate. C16-C20 alkyls.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that each of RI-CO- and R3-CO- groups comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.   3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that each of RI-CO- and R3-CO- groups denotes a coconut fatty acid residue.   4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has an average value ranging from 10 to 20.   5. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has a mean value equal to 15.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that Y is the SO3M group where M is an alkaline ion such as a sodium ion.   7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the spacer R2 consists of a C1-C3 linear alkylene chain, preferably an ethylene chain.   8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that n is equal to 1.   9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant of formula (I) has the following structure: O   II, (PEG-15) SO3Na cocoyl C N CH2 H2 CH2 H2 cocoyl C N - (PEG-15) SO3Na I I O   10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the geminate surfactant is mixed with (a) a C 6 -C 22 fatty acid ester and glyceryl, (b) a C 6 -C 22 fatty acid diester and citric acid and glycerol, and (c) a C10-C30 fatty alcohol.   11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the gemini surfactant represents from 10 to 20% by weight; the C 6 -C 22 fatty acid ester and glyceryl is from 30 to 40% by weight; the C 6 -C 22 fatty acid diester and citric acid and glycerol represents from 10 to 20% by weight; and the C10-C30 fatty alcohol represents from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.   12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the gemini surfactant represents from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the tetrapolymer comprises from 1 to 2% by weight of methacrylic acid, from 10 to 90% by weight of methyl methacrylate, from 10 to 90% by weight butyl acrylate, and 25 to 75% by weight of C16-C20 alkyl (meth) acrylate.   14. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the tetrapolymer comprises 1 to 2% by weight of methacrylic acid, 10 to 40% by weight of methyl methacrylate, 30 to 50% by weight of acrylate. butyl, and from 25 to 35% by weight of C16-C20 alkyl (meth) acrylate.   15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains from 0.1 to 5% by weight of tetrapolymer, relative to the total weight of the composition.   16. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, as a skin care product, as a hygiene product, as a hair care product, as a solar product and as a makeup product.   17. Process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratinous material, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 15 is applied to the keratinous material.   18. A cosmetic process for hydrating the skin, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 is applied to the skin.