FR2951084A1 - Composition, useful to treat e.g. wrinkle, comprises, in aqueous medium, active acids e.g. beta-hydroxy acids, acrylic acid homopolymer, polymer of monomer with sulfonic group, and copolymer of carboxylic acid and ester, and oil - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition (I) comprises, in an aqueous medium: active acids comprising alpha -hydroxy acids or beta -hydroxy acids; partially neutralized acrylic acid homopolymer; a polymer of a monomer with a sulfonic group, and a copolymer of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid and unsaturated alkyl (10-30C) carboxylic acid ester; and oil (0-15%). ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an acidic active agent and a mixture of gelling polymers, as well as a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.

Acidic active agents such as salicylic acid and glycolic acid are used in cosmetic compositions, in particular for their effectiveness in treating the signs of aging of the skin, in particular wrinkles.

Among the available galenics, the aqueous gels are interesting for their te che texture, light, easy to apply on the skin. It is, for example, known to formulate an aqueous gel with various gelling polymers such as crosslinked poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) polymers as described in application EP-A-815828 or else such as patterned crosslinked copolymers. acrylic and alkyl acrylate units C10-C30 as described in EP-A-901365. However, the introduction of the acidic active agents mentioned above into these aqueous gels causes a drop in the viscosity and therefore a significant fluidification of the gel: the consistency sought is therefore not retained.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous gel comprising an acidic active agent chosen from α-hydroxy acids and [3-hydroxy acids having a non-fluid cream texture. The inventor has discovered that such a composition can be obtained by combining the acidic active agent with a mixture comprising a homopolymer of a monomer containing a sulfonic group. More specifically, the invention relates to a composition comprising, in an aqueous medium: an acidic active agent among α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids; a homopolymer of the acrylic acid at least partially neutralized; a polymer of a sulfonic monomer; and an olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid copolymer and unsaturated carboxylic acid alkyl ester (O10-C30); and 0% to 15% oil. The composition according to the invention has a non-greasy, non-greasy cream texture, of which the gelling agent mixture forms a well-maintained gelation network in the presence of the acidic active ingredient. The subject of the invention is also a non-therapeutic method of care or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition defined above.

The composition according to the invention comprises an acidic active agent chosen from α-hydroxy acids and R-hydroxy acids.

The α-hydroxy acids that can be used in the composition of the invention are acids comprising at least one -C (OH) -COOH group, especially mono-acids, diacids or triacids. Ketoacids such as vitamin C are excluded from this definition.

These α-hydroxy acids are compounds of formula (I): R 2

Wherein R1 and R2, independently of one another, may be selected from H, CH3, CHOHCOOH, CH2O00H, COOH, CH2OH (CHOH) X wherein x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6, C6H5. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the α-hydroxy acids which can be used in the composition of the invention are chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, gluconic acid and the acid. tartaric acid, malic acid, and mixtures thereof, as well as plant extracts containing it, in particular fruit extracts. As R-hydroxy-acids that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of salicylic acid and its derivatives, in particular its alkylated derivatives, that is to say its derivatives of formula (II) COOH in which: - R, represents a hydroxyl radical or an ester of formula:

Wherein R 4 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical comprising from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, an amine or thiol function optionally substituted with a radical alkyl comprising 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms, - R2 and R3 independently of each other are in position 3, 4, 5 or 6 on the benzene ring and represent independently of one another a hydrogen atom or a radical: _ (0) n- (CO) m_R5 wherein n and m, independently of each other, are each an integer of 0 or 1; with the proviso that R2 and R3 are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms; R 5 represents a hydrogen, a saturated aliphatic radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclized, an unsaturated radical comprising from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, carrying one to nine conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds, the radicals being be substituted by at least one substituent chosen from halogen atoms (fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine), trifluoromethyl radicals, hydroxyl in free form or esterified with an acid comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or free carboxyl or esterified with a lower alcohol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, an aromatic radical comprising 6 to 10 carbon atoms.

The preferred salicylic acid derivatives of formula (II) are those in which R 1 represents a hydroxyl radical, R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, R 3 is at the 5-position of the benzene ring and R 5 represents a saturated aliphatic radical comprising from 3 to 15 carbon atoms.

When the composition contains a salicylic acid derivative of formula (II), it may be in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n -octyl-5-salicylic, n-heptyloxy-5-salicylic, n-heptyloxy-4-salicylic, 5-tert-octylsalicylic, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic, 3 , 5-diisopropylsalicylic, 5-butoxysalicylic, 5-octyloxysalicylic, 5-propanoyl-salicylic, n-hexadecanoyl-5-salicylic, n-oleoyl-5-salicylic acid, benzoyl-5-salicylic acid, their monovalent and divalent salts and mixtures thereof. It is preferably n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (INCI name: Capryloyl Salicylic acid).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, when the composition contains a [3-hydroxyacid, this is preferably salicylic acid. The acidic active agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight. % in weight. The composition according to the invention contains an at least partially neutralized acrylic acid homopolymer.

Homopolymers of acrylic acid which are suitable for the invention are present in the composition in a non-particulate form. The homopolymer used according to the invention is in particular chosen from sodium polyacrylates and potassium polyacrylates. Sodium polyacrylate is preferably used.

The acrylic acid homopolymer may be advantageously neutralized at a level ranging from 5 to 80%.

As sodium polyacrylate that may be used according to the invention, it is possible to use those sold under the names Cosmedia SP® or Cosmedia SPL® by the company Cognis, or else Luvigel® EM sold by the company BASF

The at least partially neutralized acrylic acid hopolymer may be present in the composition according to the invention, in a content ranging from 0.05 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1% by weight.

The composition according to the invention contains a monomer polymer containing a sulfonic group.

The polymers comprising at least one monomer containing a sulfonic group, used in the composition of the invention, are advantageously water-soluble or water-dispersible or swellable in water. The polymers used in accordance with the invention are homopolymers capable of being obtained from at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer and with a sulphonic group, which may be in free form or partially or completely neutralized.

Preferably, the polymers in accordance with the invention may be partially or completely neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or tri-ethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N methyl glucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are usually neutralized. The term "neutralized" in the present invention means polymers that are totally or substantially completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%.

The polymers used in the composition of the invention generally have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 20,000 to 5,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000. g / mol.

These polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

The monomers containing a sulphonic group of the polymer used in the composition of the invention are chosen in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulphonic acid, (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids and N- (C) acids. , -C 22) alkyl- (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulfonic acid such as undecyl-acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or completely neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers containing a sulphonic group are chosen from (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids such as, for example, acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, acrylamido acid and ethanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butane sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecylsulphonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and their partially or totally neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or completely neutralized forms are used.

When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the olefinically-polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking the polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, di (meth) acrylate and the like. ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallylether, (meth) acrylate, allyl, allyl ethers of alcohols of the series of sugars, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as the allyl esters of phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures thereof; of these compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

The sulfonic monomer homopolymer may be crosslinked with one or more crosslinking agents.

These homopolymers are generally crosslinked and neutralized, and they can be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps: (a) the monomer, such as 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid in free form, is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of t-butanol or water and t-butanol; (b) the solution or dispersion of monomer obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more inorganic or organic bases, preferably ammonia NH 3, in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer; ranging from 90 to 100%; (c) adding to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b), the crosslinking monomer (s);

(d) conventional radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of free radical initiators at a temperature of from 10 to 150 ° C; the precipitating polymer in the tert-butanol solution or dispersion.

The preferred AMPS homopolymers are generally characterized in that they comprise, randomly distributed: a) from 90 to 99.9% by weight of units of general formula (III) below: Wherein X + denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion, at most 10 mol% of the X + cations may be H + protons;

B) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of crosslinking units from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds; the proportions by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.

The more particularly preferred homopolymers according to the invention comprise from 98 to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (II) and from 0.2 to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.

As polymers of this type, there may be mentioned in particular the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, marketed by Clariant under the trademark "Hostacerin® AMPS" (CTFA name: polyacryldimethyltauramide ammonium).

Acrylamide / AMPS Copolymers According to another embodiment, the hydrophilic acrylic polymer is a crosslinked anionic copolymer consisting of units derived from the reaction between (i) acrylamide (monomer 1), (ii) 2-acrylamido acid 2 methyl propane sulfonic acid (monomer 2, hereinafter referred to as AMPS convenience) and (iii) at least one olefinic polyunsaturated compound (monomer 3), here constituting the crosslinking agent.

The crosslinked anionic copolymers used in the context of the present invention are products which are already known per se and their preparation has been described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 503 853, the content of which is therefore completely included as part of the present invention. reference in the present description.

The above copolymers can thus be obtained conventionally according to the so-called emulsion polymerization technique from the three different comonomers forming part of their constitution.

The olefinic polyunsaturated monomers used as crosslinking agents for the preparation of the copolymers according to the invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of methylenebisacrylamide, allyl sucrose and pentaerythritol. Even more preferentially, methylene bis-acrylamide is used.

Preferably, said olefinic polyunsaturated compound is present in the copolymer at a concentration of between 0.06 and 1 millimole per mole of all the monomeric units.

The ratio, expressed in mol%, between acrylamide and dAMPS is preferably between 85/15 and 15/85, advantageously between 70/30 and 30/70, even more preferably between 65/35 and 35/65, and more especially between 60/40 and 40/60. In addition, dAMPS is generally at least partially neutralized in the form of a salt, for example with sodium hydroxide, with potassium hydroxide, or with a low molecular weight amine such as triethanolamine, or mixtures thereof.

A crosslinked copolymer which is particularly preferred in the context of the practice of the present invention corresponds to that as prepared in Example 1 of the aforementioned patent application EP-A-0 503 853, which is then in the form of of a water-in-oil inverse emulsion. More specifically, this copolymer consists of 60 mol% of acrylamide and 40 mol% of sodium salt of AMPS, and is crosslinked with methylene bis-acrylamide at a rate of 0.22 millimole per mole of the mixture. total of monomers. The final water-in-oil inverse emulsion, for its part, contains, and preferably, about 40% by weight of crosslinked copolymer as defined above and of the order of 4% by weight of an ethoxylated fatty alcohol. having an HLB of about 12.5.

The products sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) are more particularly used according to the invention as crosslinked copolymer. ) sold by the company Seppic.

The monomer polymer containing a sulphonic group may be present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging, for example, from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.05 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention also comprises an unsaturated carboxylic acid copolymer and unsaturated C10-30 alkyl carboxylate. Such a copolymer comprises at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type. Preferably, these polymers are chosen from those whose hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the following monomer of formula (IV): ## STR2 ## in which R 1 denotes H or CH 3 or C2H5, i.e., acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units,

and wherein the unsaturated carboxylic acid (C10-C30) alkyl ester hydrophobic unit corresponds to the following monomer of formula (V): wherein R 2 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 (That is to say, acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units), R3 denotes a C10-C30 alkyl radical, and preferably C12-C22. Particularly suitable are the copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids and unsaturated C10-C30 carboxylates. Alkyl (C 10 -C 30) esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate. Anionic polymers of this type are, for example, described and prepared according to US Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949. Among this type of anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from a monomer mixture comprising (I) essentially acrylic acid, (V) (ii) an ester of formula (III) described above and wherein R 2 denotes H or CH 3, R 3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 atoms of carbon, (iii) and a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene -bis-acrylamide. Among this type of anionic associative polymers, use will more particularly be made of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate (unit hydrophobic), and 0 to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C-alkyl acrylate, o-C30 (hydrophobic unit), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above. Among the aforesaid polymers, the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1®, Pemulen TR2O and Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR1®, are particularly preferred according to the present invention. the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name COATEX SX®.

The copolymer of unsaturated carboxylic acid and unsaturated C 1 -C 30 alkyl carboxylate may be present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging, for example, from 0.05 to 5% by weight, of preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise a glyceryl acrylate polymer.

Preferably, the glyceryl acrylate polymer is selected from copolymers of glyceryl acrylate and acrylic acid. Such copolymers are in particular sold under the names "LUBRAJEL® MS", "LUBRAJEL® CG", "LUBRAJEL® DV", "LUBRAJEL® NP", "LUBRAJE®L 011", "LUBRAJEL® Oil BG", "LUBRAJEL® PF "," LUBRAJEL® TVV "," LUBRAJEL® WA "by Guardian Laboratories. "LUBRAJEL® MS" is preferably used.

The glyceryl acrylate polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight.

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

The composition may comprise water in a content ranging from 60% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 65% to 90% by weight, and preferably ranging from 70% to 85% by weight. % in weight.

The water may be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

The composition may further comprise a water-miscible polyol at ambient temperature (25 ° C.), chosen in particular from polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the mono, di or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the mono, di or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers; ; and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a water-miscible polyol at room temperature in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3% to 15% by weight. % in weight.

In addition, the composition according to the invention may comprise a monoalcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol, especially in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition, and preferably ranging from 1% to 7% by weight.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is transparent. By "transparent composition" is meant according to the invention, a composition allowing light to pass without causing deviation by refraction or reflection. The transparency of the composition can be measured using a Turbidimeter. For example, the Model 2100P® Portable Turbidimeter from HACH can be used to measure the transparency ranges of the composition. The composition is considered to be transparent when the measured turbidity value is between 0 and 250 NTU and is considered translucent for a turbidity value ranging from 250 to 1000 NTU.

The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 15% by weight of oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oil may be a volatile oil, chosen in particular from volatile silicone oils, non-silicone volatile oils.

By volatile oil is meant any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or the lips, in less than one hour, especially having a vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure ranging from 10-3 to 300 mm. Hg (0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa). As volatile oil that may be used in the invention, it is possible to use non-silicone volatile oils, in particular C 8 -C 16 isoparaffins such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names of ISOPAR. of PERMETHYL and in particular isododecane (PERMETHYL 99 A). As the volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. In particular, there may be mentioned octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

The oil can also be a non-volatile oil.

By nonvolatile oil is meant an oil capable of remaining on the skin at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure for at least one hour, and in particular having a vapor pressure at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure, no zero, less than 0.01 mmHg (1.33 Pa).

Nonvolatile oils which can be used in the invention include:

non-volatile, non-silicone oils, in particular hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid paraffin (or petroleum jelly), squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (Parleam® oil), perhydrosqualene, mink, turtle and soybean oil, almond oil, calophyllum, palm oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, ground rot, cotton oil, apricot oil, castor oil, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal sprouts; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; esters derived from long chain (ie having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms) acids or alcohols, in particular esters of formula RCOOR 'in which R represents the residue of a fatty acid with 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R 'represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular the C 12 -C 36 esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, stearate, of butyl, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, di (2-ethyl hexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin or diglycerine triisostearate; higher fatty acids, especially C14-C22 fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostea-5-ric acid; higher fatty alcohols, especially C16-C22, such as cetanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol; and their mixtures. non-volatile silicone oils such as non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxanes; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids (especially C8-C20), fatty alcohols (especially C8-C20) or polyoxyalkylenes (especially polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene); amino silicones; silicones containing a hydroxyl group; fluorinated silicones comprising a fluorinated group during or at the end of the silicone chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, all or part of the hydrogen of which is substituted by fluorine atoms; and their mixtures

The composition may comprise fillers in a content of less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, especially in a content ranging from 0.1 to 4% by weight. According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of charges (zero content).

By "charge" is meant any colorless particle selected from inorganic or organic fillers, lamellar, spherical or oblong, chemically inert in the composition.

Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, laponite, polyamide powders such as Nylon®, poly-3-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic polymer particles, in particular copolymer d acrylic acid such as Polytrap® (Dow Corning), polyurethane powders, silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, dicalcium phosphate, carbonate and hydro- magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof.

The composition advantageously comprises a hydrophilic cosmetic or dermatological active agent. The hydrophilic active agent may be any water-soluble molecule having cosmetic or dermatological activity and having a solubility in water of at least 0.25% by weight at room temperature (25 ° C). The hydrophilic active agents may in particular be chosen from dermorelaxant active agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of fibers of the extracellular dermal or epidermal matrix or fibers localized at the level of the dermo-epidermal junction and / or preventing their degradation, the anti-inflammatory agents. glycation, lipolytic or lipogenesis inhibiting agents, anti-irritant agents, and mixtures thereof. Such hydrophilic active agents are described, for example, in application FR-A-2877221.

By way of example, mention may also be made of: anti-free radical agents and / or detoxifying agents such as ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, cysteine derivatives, for example N-acetylcysteine, proteins and enzymes, for example superoxide dismutase (SOD), peroxidases such as lactoperoxidase and lactoferrin, catalase, proteases such as subtillisin and papain, lipases, uricase. , peptides and their derivatives, ubiquinone and cytochrome C, keratolytic agents such as alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids and alpha-ketoacids such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, or acid 4 - (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-ethanesulfonic acid,; tanning accelerators such as tyrosine derivatives, depigmenting active agents such as kojic acid, arbutin and derivatives thereof, self-tanning active agents such as dihydroxyacetone and indoles, lipo-regulators such as caffeine and theophylline; moisturizing agents such as sorbitol, xylitol, urea, 2-hydroxyethyl urea and plant DNA; anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine and pyridine thione derivatives; antielastase agents such as {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} -acetic acid (compound described in patent application WO 01/94381); dermorelaxing agents such as adenosine; - and their mixtures.

The hydrophilic active agent (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, pigments, UV filters, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound (s) to be added to the compositions according to the invention, as well as their concentration, in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions according to the invention are not not, or not substantially, impaired by the intended addition.

The composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous gel.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can have a viscosity, measured at 25 ° C., at a shear rate of 200 min-1 (200 revolutions per minute, ie a frequency of 50 Hz), ranging from 0.9 to 9. , 5 Pa.s (9 to 95 poise), and preferably ranging from 0.9 to 5 Pa.s (9 to 50 poises). The viscosity is measured at 25 ° C with a RHEOMAT 180 viscometer from METTLER equipped with a mobile No. 3, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile (time after which a stabilization of the viscosity and the rotational speed of the mobile), at a shear of 200 min-1.

The composition may be a care composition, in particular a skin care product such as a skin care base, a care gel (day care, night care, anti-wrinkle), a makeup base; a care composition for the lips (lip balm); a sun protection or self-tanning composition.

The composition may also be a make-up composition, especially a make-up of the skin, such as a foundation, a blush, an eyeshadow, a concealer product, a body make-up product.

The following examples illustrate the invention.

EXAMPLE 1 A moisturizing facial care composition containing the following ingredients (percentages by weight) was prepared: PHASE Al 100% Water qs Glycerin 7% Salicylic acid 1.5% Disodium salt of ethylene diamine tetracetic acid 0.2 PHASE A2 0.45 ° Ai Non-crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (COSMEDIA SP from COGNIS) PHASE A3 0.5 ° Ai Condensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (128 EO / 54 OP / 128 0E) (SYNPERONIC PE / F 108 from Croda) PHASE A4 2% Water Sodium hydroxide 1.3% PHASE A5 1.47 Glycolic acid PHASE B 1.5% Poly acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked (Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant) Polydimethylsiloxane 10 cst 3% Phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane (DOW CORNING 2,556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID from Dow Corning) Copolymer acrylic acid / stearyl methacrylate 0.5 (Carbopol 1382 from NOVEON) PHASE C 5% Water PHASE D 1% Copolymer di-m ethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate (POLYTRAP 6603 ADSORBER from AMCOL) Perlite 25 μm 1% Silica microspheres (SB700 from Myoshi Kasei) 1% E-PHASE 3% Acrylic acid / glyceryl acrylate copolymer (LUBRAJEL PF from United Guardian) PHASE F 7% Ethanol PHASE F1 2.5 ° Ai Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate N-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid 0.3% PHASE G Acrylamide / acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulphonate sodium copolymer in reverse emulsion 40% in isoparaffin / water (Sepigel 305 from Seppic) 0.7%

Procedure: The phase Al is heated to 70 ° C. With stirring, the phases A2 to A5 are added, then phase B is added. While maintaining the temperature of 40 ° C., the phases C to I are added until the reaction is complete. to obtain a cream gel.

The viscosity of the composition at 25 ° C is equal to 10.6 Poise (1.06 Pa.). The viscosity is measured at 25 ° C. with a RHEOMAT 180 viscometer from METTLER equipped with a mobile No. 3, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile (time at which a stabilization of the viscosity and the speed of rotation of the mobile) is observed, at a shear of 200 min-1.

The composition applied to the skin of the face, spreads easily, has a pleasant cream texture. Example 2 (comparative):

A composition 2 (outside the invention) similar to that of Example 1 but not containing non-crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (compensated by 0.45% water added) was prepared.

This composition 2 has a viscosity measured at 25 ° C. of 6.5 poise (0.65 PA $).

Thus, the presence of uncrosslinked sodium polyacrylate makes it possible to obtain an aqueous gel having a creamy texture and not a liquid texture.

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. A composition comprising, in an aqueous medium: an acidic active agent among α-hydroxy acids and R-hydroxy acids; a homopolymer of the acrylic acid at least partially neutralized; a polymer of a sulfonic monomer; and a copolymer of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid and (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid; and 0% to 15% oil. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the active acid is selected from citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, gluconic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, salicylic acid. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the acidic active agent is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from from 0.05% to 3% by weight. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the homopolymer of acrylic acid is sodium polyacrylate. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the homopolymer of the at least partially neutralized acrylic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.05 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1% by weight. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monomer containing a sulfonic group is chosen from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulphonic acid, (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids, N- (C 1 -C 22) alkyl- (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids, as well as their partially or completely neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monomer containing sulfonic group is 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer of a monomer containing sulfonic group is a crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monomer polymer containing sulfonic group is present in an active material content ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 at 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a glyceryl acrylate polymer. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises water in a content ranging from 60% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 65% to 90% by weight, and preferably 70% to 85% by weight. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a polyol chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a monoalcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the composition. 20 14. Non-therapeutic method for the care or makeup of keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.