FR2706294A3 - Cosmetic night preparation intended for combating skin aging - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic night preparation intended for combating skin aging. It contains at least one aqueous phase and/or one oily phase, and contains at least one soluble substance, chosen from water-soluble and/or fat-soluble substances, which is capable of trapping metal ions and in particular the iron present in the skin and which constitutes at night, in the absence of UV radiation, the main element for production of free radicals which are induced by the basal metabolism, so as to obtain an anti-free-radical active principle which is specific to the night.

Description

-1 The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation of

  night intended for the fight against skin aging.

  It is well known that the skin, like other organs for that matter, is subject to an internal biological rhythm expressed by 24 hours or day-night. These rhythms, called circadian rhythms, vary not only the physiology, but also the reactivity of the

skin according to the schedule.

  It has been determined that three elements are at the origin of aging phenomena by the production of free radicals: - oxygen - ultraviolet radiation (U.V) - metal ions and in particular the iron present in the

skin as in all tissues.

  However, a distinction should be made between the free radicals induced during the day, by UV radiation, from those produced by basic metabolism, therefore at night.

the absence of UV

  If anti-free radical active ingredients are known which correspond to anti-free radical systems by day, the concept of anti-free radical system at night is however bad.

known as far as he is concerned.

  However, it is important to act at the time when the basal cells of the epidermis multiply the most, that is to say when the cell renewal rate goes through a maximum, at night. Consequently, the biological balance of skin tissue requires the use of cosmetic products overnight, which makes it possible to meet the needs of the skin, including

pace of life has slowed down.

  Thus, according to a first phase of the inventive step, a cosmetic composition was sought

  able to prevent the formation of free radicals at night.

  To this end, the invention relates to a night cosmetic preparation, intended for the fight against skin aging, characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous phase and / or an oily phase, and contains at least one selected soluble substance. among the water-soluble and / or liposoluble substances, capable of trapping metal ions and in particular the iron present in the skin and constituting at night, in the absence of UV radiation, the main element for the production of free radicals which are induced by metabolism basic, so as to obtain an active ingredient

  anti-free radical at night.

  For this purpose, the soluble substance is "NOCTOFERRINE" which is a glyco protein capable of trapping iron, and included in said preparation in a range between 1% and 10%, thus avoiding the formation of free radicals.

  night, for perfect relaxation of the skin.

  It should be noted here that "NOCTOFERRINE is a brand

  registered by the company "SEDERMA".

  Thus detoxified, the skin is in better shape and will therefore more easily perform its recovery functions,

  repair, hydration and regeneration.

  In order to improve its efficiency, that is to say better provision of the skin, it is possible to encapsulate this active principle in membrane nanovesicles, for example based on soy lecithin: This gives a: * protection of the ingredient * better absorption * more effective penetration

* action prolonged in time.

  The vitamins that have been chosen are the most effective although unstable because they are degraded by daylight; it is retinol propionate and biotin at 0.1 to 5%. Still other constituents can improve the properties of the composition according to the invention, which can optionally comprise at least one of the following compounds: * Linden for its lenitive action 1-5% * Orange blossom wax for its action soothing and softening 0.5-5% * Perhydrosqualene olive extract for the reconstitution of sebum 1-20% * Kiwi oil, rich in essential fatty acids like linoleic acid 1-20% * A hygroscopic agent, the honey in glycolic solution, representing 0.3 to 20% of honey and containing

Alpha Hydroxy Acids.

  The composition according to the invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a

aqueous gel or lotion.

  In the case of an oil-in-water emulsion, particles of aqueous phase can be limited by membranes in

oily phase.

  Advantageously, several concentric closed membranes in the oily phase trap between them layers of aqueous phase which are thus separated from each other. It is these particles and these layers of aqueous phase which are gradually released by the successive rupture of the

membranes that surround them.

  A cosmetic composition formula according to the invention is given by way of nonlimiting example (composition given as a percentage by weight) * Glycerol stearate 3.0 * Cholesterol ether Polyoxyethylene 0.5 * Glucose ether 1.0 * Perhydrosqualene 3.0 * Dioctyl succinate 3.0 * Silicone oils 8.0 * Orange flower wax 1.0 * Linden extract 2.0 * Acrylide polymer 1.5 * Kiwi oil 1.0 * Biotin 0.01 * Retinol propionate 0.1 * Honey in 20% glycolic solution 2.0 * Noctoferrin 4.0 * Lecithin soy 1.0 * Fragrance 0.2 * Preservatives 0.5 * Purified water qs 100 The fragrance is chosen according to the characteristics

  olfactory properties desired for the composition.

  Of course, it is possible to deviate somewhat from the above formula, without thereby departing from the scope of the invention.

Claims (8)

  1) Night cosmetic preparation, intended for the fight against skin aging, characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous phase and / or one oily phase and contains at least one soluble substance chosen from water-soluble and / or liposoluble substances , able to trap metal ions and in particular iron present in the skin and constituting at night, in the absence of UV radiation, the main element for the production of free radicals which are induced by basic metabolism, so as to obtain a   anti-free radical active ingredient at night.   2) Cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the soluble substance is "NOCTOFERRINE" which is a glyco protein capable of trapping iron, and entering said preparation in a fork between 1% and 10%.   3) Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 or   2, characterized in that the active anti-free radical ingredient   at night is encapsulated in membrane nanovesicles.   4) Cosmetic preparation according to claim 3, characterized in that the membrane nanovesicles are at soy lecithin base.   ) Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims I to   4, characterized in that it additionally and optionally contains vitamins such as retinol propionate and   biotin according to a weight percentage between 0.1 and 5%.   6) Cosmetic preparation according to one * of the claims   previous, characterized in that it contains in weight percentage and optionally; - between 1 and 5% linden, - between 0.5 and 5% of orange blossom wax, - between 1 and 20% of Perhydrosqualene extracted from the olive, - between 1 and 20% - kiwi, - between 0.3 and 20% honey in glycolic solution, containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids, and constituting an agent hygroscopic.   7) Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims   previous, characterized in that it is presented under   form of an oil-in-water emulsion or vice versa.   8) Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to   6, characterized in that it is in the form of a aqueous gel.   9) Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to   6, characterized in that it is in the form of a lotion.