FR2633515A1 - Cosmetic composition for moisturising the skin - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition for moisturising the skin Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2633515A1 FR2633515A1 FR8808880A FR8808880A FR2633515A1 FR 2633515 A1 FR2633515 A1 FR 2633515A1 FR 8808880 A FR8808880 A FR 8808880A FR 8808880 A FR8808880 A FR 8808880A FR 2633515 A1 FR2633515 A1 FR 2633515A1
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- composition according
- oil
- aqueous phase
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0295—Liquid crystals
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Crystallography & Structural Chemistry (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Composition cosmétique pour l'hydratation de la peau.Cosmetic composition for moisturizing the skin.
L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour l'hydratation de la peau.The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for moisturizing the skin.
On sait depuis longtemps que la teneur optimale en eau du stratum corneum peut être maintenue ou restaurée grâce à deux catégories de substances exerçant des fonctions différentes - des substances hygroscopiques maintenant une réserve d'eau - des substances formant sur la peau un film lipidique imperméable qui limite la perte d'eau.It has long been known that the optimal water content of the stratum corneum can be maintained or restored thanks to two categories of substances exercising different functions - hygroscopic substances maintaining a water reserve - substances forming on the skin an impermeable lipid film which limits water loss.
I1 est également connu d'associer ces deux types de substances dans une même composition cosmétique comportant au moins une phase huileuse et une phase aqueuse dispersées l'une dans l'autre. It is also known to combine these two types of substances in the same cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily phase and one aqueous phase dispersed in one another.
I1 a par ailleurs été découvert récemment qu'une émulsion huile dans eau peut présenter une structure particulière à cristaux liquides favorisant la rétention d'eau et par suite l'hydratation de la peau sur laquelle une telle émulsion est appliquée. It has moreover been recently discovered that an oil-in-water emulsion can have a particular structure with liquid crystals which promotes water retention and consequently the hydration of the skin to which such an emulsion is applied.
Cet effet est décrit par T. SUZUKI, H. TSUTSUMI et A.This effect is described by T. SUZUKI, H. TSUTSUMI and A.
ISHIDA, "Secondary droplet emulsion : Contribution of liquid crystal formation to physicochemical properties and skin moisturizing effect of cosmetic emulsion", Tokyo Research
Laboratoires KAO Soap, 12è Congrès International IFSSCC,
Paris 13-17 septembre 1982, pages 117 à 136, à propos d'une émulsion composée d'eau, de paraffine liquide, de deux surfactants, à savoir le monostéarate de sorbitanne polyoxyéthyléné à 20 molécules et le mono-oléate de glycérol, et deux alcools gras permettant l'établissement de la structure à cristaux liquides, à savoir les alcools cétylique et stéarylique. Aucun de ces constituants ne présente par lui-même des propriétés hydratantes.ISHIDA, "Secondary droplet emulsion: Contribution of liquid crystal formation to physicochemical properties and skin moisturizing effect of cosmetic emulsion", Tokyo Research
KAO Soap Laboratories, 12th IFSSCC International Congress,
Paris 13-17 September 1982, pages 117 to 136, concerning an emulsion composed of water, liquid paraffin, two surfactants, namely 20-molecule polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate and glycerol mono-oleate, and two fatty alcohols allowing the establishment of the liquid crystal structure, namely cetyl and stearyl alcohols. None of these constituents by itself has hydrating properties.
Le but de l'invention est de procurer une préparation cosmétique hydratante d'une efficacité améliorée par rapport aux compositions connues.The object of the invention is to provide a moisturizing cosmetic preparation with improved efficacy compared to known compositions.
La composition selon l'invention, comportant au moins une phase huileuse et une phase aqueuse dispersées l'une dans l'autre et contenant au moins une substance hygroscopique et au moins une substance formant sur la peau un film lipidique imperméable, présente en outre une structure à cristaux liquides.The composition according to the invention, comprising at least one oily phase and one aqueous phase dispersed one inside the other and containing at least one hygroscopic substance and at least one substance forming on the skin an impermeable lipid film, also has a liquid crystal structure.
L'invention procède de la découverte que non seulement il est possible d'introduire dans une composition présentant une structure à cristaux liquides comme décrit dans l'article précité des substances ayant des propriétés hydratantes, mais également qu'on obtient ainsi une libération progressive des principes actifs hygroscopiques contenus dans la phase aqueuse et par suite une prolongation spectaculaire de l'effet d'hydratation.The invention proceeds from the discovery that not only is it possible to introduce into a composition having a liquid crystal structure as described in the aforementioned article substances having hydrating properties, but also that a progressive release of the substances is thus obtained. hygroscopic active ingredients contained in the aqueous phase and consequently a spectacular prolongation of the hydration effect.
Les pourcentages des constituants de la composition sont donnés dans la suite en poids par rapport à l'ensemble de la composition.The percentages of the constituents of the composition are given below by weight relative to the whole of the composition.
Les ingrédients hygroscopiques préférés pour la mise en oeuvre de l'invention sont les suivants, et peuvent être utilisés indépendamment ou en combinaison - extrait d'aloès, c'est-à-dire le jus contenu dans les feuilles d'aloe vera, à raison de 0,5 à 20% - miel en solution glycolique, représentant 0,3 à 20% de miel; - glycérol et/ou sorbitol à raison de 3 à 10% de chacun indépendamment.The preferred hygroscopic ingredients for the implementation of the invention are the following, and can be used independently or in combination - aloe extract, that is to say the juice contained in the leaves of aloe vera, 0.5 to 20% - honey in glycolic solution, representing 0.3 to 20% honey; - glycerol and / or sorbitol in an amount of 3 to 10% of each independently.
Comme substances formant un film lipidique imperméable on utilise de préférence des huiles végétales et/ou des esters gras contenus dans des huiles végétales, dont quelques exemples sont donnés ci-après.As substances forming an impermeable lipid film, vegetable oils and / or fatty esters contained in vegetable oils are preferably used, some examples of which are given below.
Les huiles de bourrache et de carthame sont riches en acides gras essentiels et jouent un rôle important sur la cohésion de la couche cornée. L'une et/ou l'autre peut être introduite indépendamment à raison de 0,1 à 10%.Borage and safflower oils are rich in essential fatty acids and play an important role in the cohesion of the stratum corneum. One and / or the other can be introduced independently at a rate of 0.1 to 10%.
On envisage également l'utilisation des triglycérides de l'acide caprylique et/ou de l'acide caprique, à raison de 1 à 20% pour chacun indépendamment.The use of triglycerides of caprylic acid and / or of capric acid is also envisaged, at a rate of 1 to 20% for each independently.
D'autres constituants encore peuvent améliorer les propriétés de la composition selon l'invention.Still other constituents can improve the properties of the composition according to the invention.
Tel est le cas des esters de l'acide férulique et notamment du w orizanol, ester de l'acide férulique avec un alcool terpénique de formule C40H5803, obtenu à partir de l'huile de son de riz. Ce composé possède une action protectrice contre le rayonnement solaire, principalement les rayons ultra-violets dont il absorbe une partie tout en laissant passer la quantité nécessaire pour la formation de la vitamine D. Un tel ester, ou l'huile de riz elle-même, peut être utilisé à hauteur de 0,01 à 20%.This is the case of esters of ferulic acid and in particular of w orizanol, ester of ferulic acid with a terpene alcohol of formula C40H5803, obtained from rice bran oil. This compound has a protective action against solar radiation, mainly ultraviolet rays of which it absorbs part while letting through the quantity necessary for the formation of vitamin D. Such an ester, or the rice oil itself , can be used up to 0.01 to 20%.
Les vitamines liposolubles, par exemple la vitamine E ou son ester acétique, exercent une action protectrice des membranes cellulaires contre les dommages dûs aux radicaux libres.The fat-soluble vitamins, for example vitamin E or its acetic ester, exert a protective action on cell membranes against damage due to free radicals.
L'acide 18 j glycyrrhétinique, triterpène polycyclique de formule brute C30H4604 extrait de la racine de réglisse, a des propriétés anti-inflammatoires et cicatrisantes. I1 peut être utilisé soit pur, soit sous forme de ses combinaisons équimoléculaires avec des phospholipides naturels ou synthétiques, en une quantité représentant 0,01 à 5% d'acide 18 ss glycyrrhétinique.The 18 j glycyrrhetinic acid, polycyclic triterpene of crude formula C30H4604 extracted from licorice root, has anti-inflammatory and healing properties. It can be used either pure or in the form of its equimolecular combinations with natural or synthetic phospholipids, in an amount representing 0.01 to 5% of 18 ss glycyrrhetinic acid.
Un agent filmogène peut être utilisé pour exercer une action tensiorégulatrice de l'épiderme, par exemple une résine carboxyvinylique telle que celle disponible dans le commerce sous la dénomination Carbopol 934.A film-forming agent can be used to exert a tensoregulatory action on the epidermis, for example a carboxyvinyl resin such as that available commercially under the name Carbopol 934.
Des alcools gras sont de préférence ajoutés pour obtenir la structure à cristaux liquides, notamment de l'alcool cétylique et/ou de l'alcool stéarylique en ' une quantité de 1 à 10% pour chacun indépendamment.Fatty alcohols are preferably added to obtain the liquid crystal structure, in particular cetyl alcohol and / or stearyl alcohol in an amount of 1 to 10% for each independently.
La composition selon l'invention peut se présenter sous forme d'une émulsion huile dans eau ou eau dans huile, ou d'un gel aqueux. Dans le cas d'une émulsion huile dans eau, des particules de phase aqueuse peuvent être limitées par des membranes en phase huileuse. Avantageusement, plusieurs membranes fermées concentriques en phase huileuse emprisonnent entre elles des couches de phase aqueuse qui sont ainsi séparées les unes des autres. Ce sont ces particules et ces couches de phase aqueuse qui sont libérées progressivement par la rupture successive des membranes qui les entrent. The composition according to the invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, or an aqueous gel. In the case of an oil-in-water emulsion, particles of aqueous phase can be limited by membranes in the oily phase. Advantageously, several concentric closed membranes in the oily phase trap between them layers of aqueous phase which are thus separated from each other. It is these particles and these layers of aqueous phase which are gradually released by the successive rupture of the membranes which enter them.
On donne ci-après à titre d'exemple la formule d'une composition selon l'invention
- Monostéarate de sorbitanne 6,5
- Polysorbate 60 4,0
- Octanoate de cétéaryle 3,0
- Huile de silicone 0,5
- Alcool cétylique 3,0
- Alcool stéarylique 2,0
- Triglycérides des acides caprylique et caprique 8,0
- Huile de vaseline 4,0 - t orizanol 0,4
- Acide 18n glycyrrhétinique 0,3
- Allantoine 0,2
- Glycérol 5,0
- Carbopol 934 0,2
- Triéthanolamine 0,2
- Extrait d'aloès 5,0
- Miel en solution glycolique à 20% environ 3,0
- Huile de bourrache 0,5
- Huile de carthame 0,5
- Acétate de tocophérol 0,3
- Parfum 0,3
- Conservateurs 0,3
- Eau déminéralisée qsp 100.The formula of a composition according to the invention is given below by way of example.
- Sorbitan monostearate 6.5
- Polysorbate 60 4.0
- Cetaryl octanoate 3.0
- Silicone oil 0.5
- Cetyl alcohol 3.0
- Stearyl alcohol 2.0
- Triglycerides of caprylic and capric acids 8.0
- Vaseline oil 4.0 - t orizanol 0.4
- 18n glycyrrhetinic acid 0.3
- Allantoin 0.2
- Glycerol 5.0
- Carbopol 934 0.2
- Triethanolamine 0.2
- Aloe extract 5.0
- Honey in glycolic solution at 20% approximately 3.0
- Borage oil 0.5
- Safflower oil 0.5
- Tocopherol acetate 0.3
- Perfume 0.3
- Preservatives 0.3
- Demineralized water qs 100.
"Polysorbate 60" est une dénomination usuelle pour le monostéarate de sorbitanne polyoxyéthyléné à 20 molécules. "Polysorbate 60" is a common name for 20-molecule polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate.
Le parfum est choisi en fonction des caractéristiques olfactives souhaitées pour la composition.The fragrance is chosen according to the olfactory characteristics desired for the composition.
Bien entendu, il est possible de s'écarter quelque peu de la formule ci-dessus, qui de toute façon ne représente qu'un exemple non limitatif. Of course, it is possible to deviate somewhat from the above formula, which in any case represents only a nonlimiting example.
Claims (12)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR8808880A FR2633515B1 (en) | 1988-06-30 | 1988-06-30 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR SKIN HYDRATION |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR8808880A FR2633515B1 (en) | 1988-06-30 | 1988-06-30 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR SKIN HYDRATION |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| FR2633515A1 true FR2633515A1 (en) | 1990-01-05 |
| FR2633515B1 FR2633515B1 (en) | 1992-04-10 |
Family
ID=9367944
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR8808880A Expired - Lifetime FR2633515B1 (en) | 1988-06-30 | 1988-06-30 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR SKIN HYDRATION |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| FR (1) | FR2633515B1 (en) |
Cited By (13)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2664162A1 (en) * | 1990-07-04 | 1992-01-10 | Clarins | Cosmetic composition |
| FR2688137A1 (en) * | 1992-03-04 | 1993-09-10 | Clarins | Cosmetic composition for combating the adverse effects of agents in the atmosphere. |
| EP0705593A1 (en) * | 1994-10-07 | 1996-04-10 | L'oreal | Dermatologic or cosmetic composition made up by an oil in water emulsion based on oily globules coated with a lamellar liquid crystal coating |
| FR2735361A1 (en) * | 1995-06-13 | 1996-12-20 | Oreal | Dispersion used to protect skin or hair esp. against UV light |
| WO1997031620A2 (en) * | 1996-03-01 | 1997-09-04 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products, Inc. | Topical compositions comprising an oil-in-water emulsion and a retinoid |
| US5869068A (en) * | 1994-09-30 | 1999-02-09 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for treating wrinkles and/or fine lines of the skin |
| US5976555A (en) * | 1994-09-07 | 1999-11-02 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products, Inc. | Topical oil-in-water emulsions containing retinoids |
| US6193956B1 (en) | 1995-09-06 | 2001-02-27 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. | Topical compositions |
| EP1051965A3 (en) * | 1999-05-10 | 2001-05-30 | Kao Corporation | External skin care composition |
| US6325995B1 (en) | 1992-09-21 | 2001-12-04 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Lipsticks compositions containing association structures |
| NL1017333C2 (en) * | 2001-02-12 | 2002-08-13 | Gent Natural Products Van | Cosmetic resp. pharmaceutical preparation. |
| US8263058B2 (en) | 2004-04-21 | 2012-09-11 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Personal care compositions that deposit hydrophilic benefit agents |
| US20220025267A1 (en) * | 2018-12-07 | 2022-01-27 | Zymergen Inc. | Bioreachable chiral dopants for liquid crystal applications |
Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2141907A1 (en) * | 1971-06-14 | 1973-01-26 | Hoffmann La Roche | |
| GB1439244A (en) * | 1972-09-29 | 1976-06-16 | Procter & Gamble | Liquid crystalline compositions |
| EP0217105A2 (en) * | 1985-09-02 | 1987-04-08 | Kao Corporation | Lamella type single phase liquid crystal composition and oil-base cosmetic compositions using the same |
-
1988
- 1988-06-30 FR FR8808880A patent/FR2633515B1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Patent Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2141907A1 (en) * | 1971-06-14 | 1973-01-26 | Hoffmann La Roche | |
| GB1439244A (en) * | 1972-09-29 | 1976-06-16 | Procter & Gamble | Liquid crystalline compositions |
| EP0217105A2 (en) * | 1985-09-02 | 1987-04-08 | Kao Corporation | Lamella type single phase liquid crystal composition and oil-base cosmetic compositions using the same |
Non-Patent Citations (2)
| Title |
|---|
| CHEMICAL ABSTRACTS, vol. 103, 1985, page 323, no. 76190c, Columbus, Ohio, US; C.MUELLER-GOYMANN et al.: "Participation of liquid crystals in emulsions, creams and gels" & EXPO. - CONGR. INT. TECHNOL. PHARM., 3RD 1983, 1, 345-51 * |
| PARF]MERIE UND KOSMETIK, vol. 66, no. 5, 1985, pages 285-286,288; G.DAHMS: "Physikalisch-chemische und dermatologische Wirkungen fl}ssig-kristalliner Phasen in \l-in-Wasser-Emulsionen" * |
Cited By (20)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2664162A1 (en) * | 1990-07-04 | 1992-01-10 | Clarins | Cosmetic composition |
| FR2688137A1 (en) * | 1992-03-04 | 1993-09-10 | Clarins | Cosmetic composition for combating the adverse effects of agents in the atmosphere. |
| US6325995B1 (en) | 1992-09-21 | 2001-12-04 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Lipsticks compositions containing association structures |
| US6461622B2 (en) | 1994-09-07 | 2002-10-08 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. | Topical compositions |
| US5976555A (en) * | 1994-09-07 | 1999-11-02 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products, Inc. | Topical oil-in-water emulsions containing retinoids |
| US5869068A (en) * | 1994-09-30 | 1999-02-09 | L'oreal | Compositions and methods for treating wrinkles and/or fine lines of the skin |
| EP0705593A1 (en) * | 1994-10-07 | 1996-04-10 | L'oreal | Dermatologic or cosmetic composition made up by an oil in water emulsion based on oily globules coated with a lamellar liquid crystal coating |
| FR2725369A1 (en) * | 1994-10-07 | 1996-04-12 | Oreal | COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION BASED ON OILY GLOBULES COMPRISING A LAMELLAR LIQUID CRYSTAL COATING |
| US5925364A (en) * | 1994-10-07 | 1999-07-20 | L'oreal | Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an oil-in-water emulsion comprising oily globules with a lamellar liquid crystal coating |
| FR2735361A1 (en) * | 1995-06-13 | 1996-12-20 | Oreal | Dispersion used to protect skin or hair esp. against UV light |
| US6193956B1 (en) | 1995-09-06 | 2001-02-27 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. | Topical compositions |
| WO1997031620A3 (en) * | 1996-03-01 | 1998-01-08 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer | Topical compositions comprising an oil-in-water emulsion and a retinoid |
| WO1997031620A2 (en) * | 1996-03-01 | 1997-09-04 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products, Inc. | Topical compositions comprising an oil-in-water emulsion and a retinoid |
| EP1051965A3 (en) * | 1999-05-10 | 2001-05-30 | Kao Corporation | External skin care composition |
| US6878378B1 (en) | 1999-05-10 | 2005-04-12 | Kao Corporation | External skin care composition |
| NL1017333C2 (en) * | 2001-02-12 | 2002-08-13 | Gent Natural Products Van | Cosmetic resp. pharmaceutical preparation. |
| EP1230911A1 (en) * | 2001-02-12 | 2002-08-14 | Van Gent Natural Products | cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation |
| US8263058B2 (en) | 2004-04-21 | 2012-09-11 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Personal care compositions that deposit hydrophilic benefit agents |
| US20220025267A1 (en) * | 2018-12-07 | 2022-01-27 | Zymergen Inc. | Bioreachable chiral dopants for liquid crystal applications |
| US11814563B2 (en) * | 2018-12-07 | 2023-11-14 | Zymergen Inc. | Bioreachable chiral dopants for liquid crystal applications |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| FR2633515B1 (en) | 1992-04-10 |
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