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EP1691772A1 - Cosmetic agents providing volume - Google Patents

Cosmetic agents providing volume

Info

Publication number
EP1691772A1
EP1691772A1 EP04765156A EP04765156A EP1691772A1 EP 1691772 A1 EP1691772 A1 EP 1691772A1 EP 04765156 A EP04765156 A EP 04765156A EP 04765156 A EP04765156 A EP 04765156A EP 1691772 A1 EP1691772 A1 EP 1691772A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
copolymer
peg
hair
groups
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP04765156A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Jörg KAHRE
Bernd Richters
Winfried Emmerling
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP1691772A1 publication Critical patent/EP1691772A1/en
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Hair treatment agents that give the hair more volume and hold are known.
  • the cosmetic polymers usually used for these purposes show good strengthening properties in aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic solutions, which deform and strengthen the hair more or less well after use and which can also give the hair more volume. Often, however, this effect does not last long and the desired volume effect is sometimes lost when you comb your hair.
  • the hairstyle collapses at least partially within a few hours, ie the volume effect does not last for a whole day from morning to evening but at most up to about 3 hours.
  • setting or bulking polymers frequently have undesirable side effects, which are noticeable in the fact that the treated hair has too rough a handle, too high a load or insufficient elasticity or there are too many visible residues on the hair. Inadequate washability after using these hair treatment products is still a problem.
  • These setting agents which are usually polymeric compounds, can be incorporated into conventional hair cleaners or conditioners. In many cases, however, it is advantageous to use them in the form of special agents such as hair fixers, hair gels, hair waxes or hair sprays.
  • a crucial deficiency of today's hair-setting agents is, in particular, inadequate combability in wet hair, especially in the area of the hair tips. Due to its lifespan, hair is usually the longest exposed egg flow, particularly in the area of the hair tips. This area in particular therefore requires special attention when developing hair cosmetic compositions.
  • Today's hair-setting agents lead to satisfactory combability, especially of wet hair, in the area of the hairline and the hair lengths, but they fail in the area of the hair tips. This sense of consumers by an increased resistance to combing in the toe area, which can even lead up to the 'Häarbruch while combing the hair. In this case, the knotted and unsightly looking and possibly even matted hair tips are in the comb. Neither cationic compounds nor film-forming polymers can sufficiently influence the combability of the hair in the area of the hair tips.
  • Polymeric compounds are widely used in cosmetic products and are becoming increasingly important. They have numerous functions and effects, often they are themselves multifunctional and show several desired effects for the cosmetic product in question in a single structure.
  • Cosmetics can be used to adjust the cosmetic properties to the desired rheological properties. For example, they can bind water and thereby build up viscosity.
  • bound water in cosmetic products also means a reduction in water activity, which can be important for the contamination of the product in question. If the activity of the free water is too low, germs can no longer dissolve and develop in it. The agent in question must then not conserved or at least significantly less.
  • multifunctional means that the use of a polymeric raw material in a composition fulfills several functions simultaneously.
  • hair waxes usually contain, in addition to the polymers, vegetable, animal or mineral waxes and are offered as solid formulations, usually in jars. For use, a certain amount is removed from the jar, then rubbed in the hand and spread over the hair. These hair waxes, based on natural raw materials, ensure a good hold of the hair with a strong shine. Nevertheless, the hair waxes on the market cannot yet completely satisfy the wishes of the users with regard to simple and clean application and easy distribution on the hair. So here the exact, simple and consistently reproducible dosing can be a problem. In addition, a long-lasting hairstyle hold up to several days with simultaneous easy washability is also desired here.
  • terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and 3- (N-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide are known and their use in hair-setting agents, in particular in aerosol and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-based spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic components (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good setting properties, but give the hair a relatively rough feel and a relatively high load.
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and 3- (N-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide are known from WO 96/19967, and their use in hair-setting agents, in particular in aerosol and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-based spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic components (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good setting properties, but give the hair a relatively rough feel and a relatively high load. In addition, the hair-setting effect is short-lived.
  • terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, 3-methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and C4-C32-alkyl methacrylate are known and their use in hair-setting agents, in particular in aerosol and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-based spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic components (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good setting properties, but give the hair a relatively rough feel and a relatively high load. In addition, the hair-setting effect is short-lived.
  • Terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and 3- (N-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide are known from EP 1 075 832 and their use in hair-setting agents, in particular in aerosol and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-based spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic components (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good setting properties, but give the hair a relatively rough feel. When these compositions are used, the softness of the hair, the shine and the difficulty of combing the hair are perceived as disadvantageous.
  • Terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and dialkyldiaminomethacrylates are known from EP 0 074 191 and their use in hair-setting agents, in particular in aerosol and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-containing spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic compounds Ingredients (low VOC sprays) suitable.
  • the polymers have good setting properties, but give the hair a relatively rough feel and a relatively high load.
  • a hair treatment composition containing (A) at least 0.01% by weight of at least one terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and an acrylate monomer of the formula (Al), (B) at least 0 , 01% by weight of at least one hair-care substance selected from one of the groups of natural and synthetic - fatty substances (B1) or - selected non-ionic surfactants (B2)
  • the terpolymer (A) in the agent according to the invention is preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 10 percent by weight, the hair care substance (B) in an amount of 0.01 to 30, particularly preferably of 0.05 to 20 weight percent and the cationic compound (C) in an amount of 0.01 to 20, preferably from 0.05 to 15 weight percent.
  • a dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate is preferred as the monomer.
  • the monomers dimethylaminoethyl acrylate and methacrylate are particularly preferred.
  • the production of such polymers is described in EP 0 074 191. Under the Name Gaffix ® VC 713 (ISP) or copolymer VC 713 (ISP) such polymers are commercially available.
  • Suitable hair care substances in the sense of the present invention are natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (B1) as hair care compounds. This includes, for example:
  • oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach seed oil and the liquid components of coconut oil.
  • Other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable.
  • the compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3- di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • Ester oils are understood to be the esters of C ⁇ - C 3 o - fatty acids with C 2 - C 3 o - fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid moieties in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, Bhenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are used, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosyn- thesis or dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty alcohol fractions in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, capro alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, 'myristyl alcohol,. cetyl alcohol,
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • Isononanklad C16-18 alkyl ester
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868)
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate
  • cocofatty alcohol -caprinate -caprylate Cocofatty alcohol -caprinate -caprylate
  • olerlerucate Cetiol ® J 600
  • isopropyl palmitate Rosanit ® IPP
  • oleyl oleate Cetiol ®
  • lauric acid hexyl ester Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (dicaprylic carbonate ® CC), trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or
  • polyhydroxy compounds include all substances understood which meet the definition in Römpp ' s Lexikon der Chemie, Version 2.0 of the CD - ROM edition from 1999, published by Georg Thieme. Accordingly, polyhydroxy compounds are understood to mean organic compounds with at least two hydroxyl groups. For the purposes of the present invention, this includes in particular:
  • Polyol fatty acid esters such as the Ha ⁇ dels GmbH
  • fatty acid and / or fatty acid derivatives and polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups and having a carbon chain of 2 to 30 carbon atoms such as fatty acid ester of trimethylolpropane
  • Fatty acid esters of carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugars in particular fatty acid esters of monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, which may also be in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses as well as in the form of methyl ethers and as phosphate esters.
  • fatty acid esters of Monosaccharides with 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as, for example, triosen, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, which may also be in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and also in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester.
  • very particularly preferred polyols which are used in the form of their esters with fatty acids are polyols having 2 to 12 carbon atoms in the molecular structure. These polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or unsaturated.
  • the hydroxyl groups are very particularly preferably adjacent at the end or separated from one another by the rest of the chain.
  • these polyols are: Glykoi, neopentyl glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, pentanediols, for example 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,4-cyclo -Hexanediol, 1, 2-cyclo-hexanediol, heptanediols, 1, 2-heptanediol, 1, 7
  • esters of fatty acids and polyols to be used according to the invention is its sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose , Lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose, old rose, gulose, idose, 'talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose Melibios
  • the partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (B1-I), CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) mR 1 I CHO (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 2 (B1-I) I CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) q R 3 in which R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another are hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to
  • carbon atoms are provided that at least one of these groups is an acyl radical and at least one of these
  • Groups represents hydrogen.
  • the sum (m + n + q) stands for 0 or numbers of 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R 1 is preferably an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides Base of caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroseic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, and erachic acid, as well as mixtures thereof, gadic acid, arachic acid, and galenic acid. Oleic acid monoglycerides are preferably used.
  • the amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (B-1) used in the agents used according to the invention is usually 0.01-30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.05-20% by weight, and in particular 0. 05-10% by weight.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants (B2) are selected according to the invention from the:
  • R alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyalkenyl, aminoalkyl, aminoalkenyl, preferably having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the pyrrolidone according to the general formula (B2-I) can also be used in the form of its salt, preferably quaternized with dimethyl sulfate (DMS) or as an alkyl halide.
  • DMS dimethyl sulfate
  • Particularly suitable pyrrolidones can be selected from the group comprising:
  • N-lauryl such as Surfadone LP-300 ® (ISP) and / or N-
  • the pyrrolidone derivative (B2-I) is used in an amount of 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 20% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 % Used.
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • the index number p in the general formula (B2-I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10.
  • the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, which is usually a fraction Represents number.
  • Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are preferred whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above.
  • Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C ⁇ 2/4 ⁇ coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3.
  • Sugar surfactants of the Preferred are fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (B2-II),
  • the fatty acid-N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can be normally obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation 'with a fatty acid, a fatty acid or a fatty acid chloride obtained.
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose.
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (B2-III):
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are glucamides of the formula (B2-III) in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures.
  • R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group
  • R 7 CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic
  • Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (B2-III) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative are particularly preferred.
  • the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • the particularly preferred nonionic surfactants were sugar surfactants. These can be contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01-30% by weight, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.05-20% by weight are preferred, and quantities of 0.05-10% by weight are very particularly preferred.
  • the substances (B1) and (B2) according to the invention are also possible to use as a mixture of at least two of the substances.
  • the invention encompasses both mixtures of at least two substances within a group and mixtures of at least two substances from each of the two groups.
  • the mixing ratio of components (B1) and (B2), where (B2) may also be understood to mean the sum of the individual components from (B2), can be from 1:99 to 99: 1.
  • the mixtures of a vegetable oil or an ester oil or a fatty acid ester or a fatty acid partial glyceride with a pyrrolidone or a sugar surfactant or a pyrrolidone and a sugar surfactant have proven to be preferred combinations according to the invention.
  • a very particularly preferred binary mixture of these two substance groups is the substance mixture of a fatty acid partial glyceride from group (B1) with the pyrrolidones from group (B2), although any combination of these two groups is possible according to the invention.
  • a very particularly preferred ternary combination of these two groups of substances is the mixture of a fatty acid partial glyceride from group (B1) with a pyrrolidone and a sugar surfactant from group (B2).
  • the cationic compound (C) is a substance which, due to cationic or cationizable groups, in particular primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, has a substantivity to human hair.
  • Suitable cationic substances are selected from cationic surfactants, betaine, amphoteric surfactants, cationic Polymers, silicone compounds with cationic or cationizable groups, cationically derivatized proteins or protein hydrolyzates and betaine,
  • the cationic polymers (C1) according to the invention can be both setting and / or film-forming and / or antistatic and / or finishing polymers as well as polymers with conditioning and / or thickening properties. In a preferred embodiment, it can also be advantageous to formulate at least one finishing and / or at least one film-forming, setting polymer and / or at least one thickening polymer.
  • the suitable cationic polymers are, however, preferably hair-setting and / or hair-conditioning polymers. Polymers are understood to mean both natural and synthetic polymers which can be cationically or amphoterically charged.
  • Preferred polymers are those which have sufficient alcohol solubility to be present in completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention.
  • the cationic charge density is preferably 1 to 7 meq / g.
  • Cationic polymers (C1) are understood to mean polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which can be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • polymers which have a cationic group irrespective of the pH of the composition are referred to as "permanently cationic".
  • These are usually polymers that contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C1-4 hydrocarbon group to a main polymer chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the cationic polymers can be homo- or copolymers, with the q ⁇ aternmaschineischen nitrogen groups either contained in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
  • the monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkyl methacryloxyalkylammonium,
  • the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • the monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl esters, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably being C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • Suitable polymers with quaternary amine groups are, for example, the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (polyquaternium-11) and, for example, quaternary polymeric polymers such as silicone polymeric polymers with quaternary end groups (Quaternium-80).
  • Polyquaternium such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (polyquaternium-11)
  • quaternary polymeric polymers such as silicone polymeric polymers with quaternary end groups (Quaternium-80).
  • cationic polymers are, for example, the copolymer of polyvinylpyrrplidone and imidazolimine methochloride sold by the company BASF, Germany under the trade name Luviquat ® HM 550, the terpolymer made from dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and the product sold by the company ⁇ algon / USA under the trade name Merquat ® Plus 3300 by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ® HS 100 displaced vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X " are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions.
  • halide ions in particular chloride, are preferred.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquatemium-37.
  • the crosslinking can, if desired, with the help of olefinically polyunsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, Polyallylpolyglycerylether or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose • done.
  • Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight.
  • a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (approx.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (C1-I) as the non-ionic monomer preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid and methacrylic acid C ⁇ - -alkyl-C 1-4 -alkyl.
  • acrylamide is particularly preferred.
  • This too Copolymers, as in the case of. Homopolymers described above can be crosslinked.
  • a preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Suitable cationic silicone compounds preferably have either at least one ar ⁇ ino group or at least one ammonium group.
  • Suitable silicone polymers with amino groups are known under the INCI name Amodimethicone. These are polydimethylsiloxanes with aminoalkyl groups. The aminoalkyl groups can be side or terminal.
  • the N-containing silicone as the cationic polymer (C1) according to the invention can preferably be selected from the group comprising siloxane polymers with at least one amino group, siloxane polymers with at least one terminal amino group, amodimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and / or aminoethylaminopropylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer.
  • Suitable silicone polymers with two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known under the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes with two terminal aminoalkyl groups.
  • R OH or CH 3
  • Emulsions which can preferably be used according to the invention are Dow Corning® 949, this is a cationic emulsion containing amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 939, this is an emulsion containing amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 929, this is a cationic emulsion containing amodimethicone, talc trimonium chloride and nonoxynol-10; Dow Corning® 7224 or 1401, based on trimethylsilylamodimethicone, octoxynol-40, isolaureth-6 and glycol; Dow Corning® 2-8194 microemulsion (26%) based on an amine-functionalized silicone polymer; Dow Corning® 2-8177 microemulsion (12%) based
  • the molecular weight of the aminosilicones is preferably between 500 and 100,000.
  • the amine content (meq / g) is preferably in the range from 0.05 to 2.3, particularly preferably from 01 to 0.5.
  • the silicone as the cationic polymer (C1) according to the invention is used in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.05 up to 10% by weight.
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Chitosan and Chitosan derivatives.
  • Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (C1-III) GOB-N + R a R b R c X " • G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose; • B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or Hydroxyalkylene • R a , R b and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 C atoms, the total number of C atoms in R a , R and R c preferably is a maximum of 20; • X " is a common counter anion and is preferably
  • a cationic cellulose is sold under the name of Polymer JR ® from Amerchol and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees.
  • Another cationic cellulose has the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is marketed by Amerchol under the trade name Polymer LM-200.
  • a suitable cationic guar derivative is sold under the trade name Jaguar ® and has the INCI name Guar Hydröxypropyltrimonium Chloride.
  • Particularly preferred cationic substances are chitosan, chitosan salts and chitosan derivatives.
  • the chitosans to be used according to the invention are completely or partially deacetylated chitins.
  • the production of chitosan is preferably based on the chitin contained in the shell remains of crustaceans, which is available in large quantities as a cheap and natural raw material.
  • the molecular weight of the chitosan can be distributed over a broad spectrum, for example from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol.
  • a low molecular weight chitosan with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol is suitable, for example.
  • the molecular weight is preferably above 100,000 g / mol, particularly preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol.
  • the degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, particularly preferably 60 to 99%.
  • a suitable chitosan is sold for example by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan, under the trade name Flonac ®. It has a molecular weight of 300,000 to 700,000 g / mol and is 70 to 80% deacetylated.
  • a preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA.
  • the chitosan contained has a molecular weight of approx. 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and is 70 to 85% deacetylated. Quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl or, come as chitosan derivative
  • the chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form.
  • the degree of neutralization for the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least 50%, particularly preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups.
  • all cosmetically compatible inorganic or organic acids can be used as neutralizing agents, for example formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid and others, of which pyrrolidone carboxylic acid is particularly preferred.
  • cationic polymers are, for example, - quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially.
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, - cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, - cationic guar Derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia ® Guar and Jaguar ® , Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylemodimethicone), Dow Corning® .
  • 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General 'Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer : Th. Goldschmidt), di-quaternary polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium-80),
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers as are offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Polyquaternium 2 Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.
  • cationic polymers can be used as cationic polymers (. B. commercial product, Quatrisoft ® LM 200) under the designations Polyquaternium-24, known polymers. Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as 845 (manufactured by ISP) as commercial products copolymer Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS 110, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370.. Further cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which is present as a quaternary ammonium group at certain pH values and is therefore cationic.
  • chitosan and its derivatives such as 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names Hydagen CMF ®, Hydagen HCMF ®, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam® NB /.
  • preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ® JR 400, Hydagen ® HCMF and Kytamer ® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquatemium-37.
  • cationized protein hydrolyzates (C2) are to be counted among the cationic substances (C), the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds , from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates.
  • the protein hydrolysates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of approximately 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons.
  • Preferred cationic protein hydrolyzates are those whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 250,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons.
  • Cationic protein hydrolyzates also include quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or the amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammoniumates such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationically derivatized protein hydrolyzates advantageously contain one or two long C8 to C22 alkyl chains and correspondingly two or one short C1 to C4 alkyl chains. Compounds containing a long alkyl chain are preferred. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized.
  • inventive cationic protein hydrolysates and - derivatives are under the INCI - names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 , Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, Cocodimopnium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hair keratin, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Silk Am
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants are very particularly preferred.
  • Amphoteric polymers (C3) can also be used as polymers.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, and also zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO in the molecule " - or -SO 3 ' groups, and summarized such polymers that contain - COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and its simple esters.
  • Further amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are those in British Offenlegungsschrift 2 104 091, European Offenlegungsschrift 47 714 and European Offenlegungsschrift. 217 274, the European
  • Further suitable zwitterionic polymers are methacroylethylbetaine / methacrylate copolymers, which are available under the name Amersette® ® (AMERCHOL).
  • Amphoteric polymers which are preferably used are those polymers which essentially consist of one another
  • these compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralizing the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide.
  • an alkali metal hydroxide for example, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium sulfate, sodium sulfate, sodium sulfate, sodium sulfate ion;
  • Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a).
  • Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the polymers mentioned.
  • zwitterionic surfactants (C4) are among the cationic substances (C).
  • Zwitterionic surfactants (C4) are those surface active compounds which, and at least one -COO ( "at least one quaternary ammonium group in the molecule - -.
  • ⁇ -SOs or group carry Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl - N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-NN-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-car-boxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline each have 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • betaines such as the N-alkyl - N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-NN-dimethylammonium
  • C8 to C18 su lfobetaines such as cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, laurylbis- (2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropylbetaine; the carboxyl derivatives of imidazole, the C8 to C18 alkyldimethylammonium acetates, the C8 to C18 alkyldimethylcarbonylmethylammonium salts and the C8 to C18 fatty acid alkylamido betaines such as, for example, the coconut fatty acid amidopropylbetaine, which is used, for example, in the form of a 30% commercial beta solution in Tego® solution under the name of the aqueous solution T7® is sold by Goldschmidt AG and the N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N- [2- (carboxymethoxy) ethyl
  • the cation-active substances (C) also include ampholytic surfactants (C5).
  • Ampholytic surfactants (C5) are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cs-C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in the molecule and for the formation of internal salts are qualified.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkylsarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid each with about 8 to 24 C. - atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C-
  • Cationic surfactants can also be used according to the invention.
  • Typical examples of cationic surfactants are, in particular, tetraalkylammonium compounds, amidoamines or esterquats.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, ryldimethylammoniumchlorid Distea-, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryl dimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride, tricetyl methyl ammonium chloride, hydroxyethyl Hydroxycetyl Dimmonium chlorides, as well as those available under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds.
  • R 14 CO stands for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 15 and R 16 independently of one another for hydrogen or R 14 CO
  • R 15 for an alkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (CH 2 CH 2 O) m H- Group
  • m1, m2 and m3 in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12
  • m4 for numbers from 1 to 12
  • Y for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
  • ester quats which can be used in the context of the invention are products based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, arachic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures , as they occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils.
  • Technical C- ⁇ coconut fatty acids and in particular partially hardened Ci 6/18 tallow or palm fatty acids as well as C 16/18 fatty acid cuts rich in elaidic acid are preferably used.
  • the fatty acids and the triethanolamine can be used in a molar ratio of 1.1: 1 to 3: 1 to produce the quaternized esters.
  • an application ratio of 1.2: 1 to 2.2: 1, preferably 1.5: 1 to 1.9: 1 has proven to be particularly advantageous.
  • the preferred esterquats are technical mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters with an average degree of esterification of 1.5 to 1.9 and are derived from technical Ci ⁇ n ⁇ - tallow or palm fatty acid (iodine number 0 to 40).
  • quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts of the formula (C6-I) have proven to be particularly advantageous in which R 14 CO for an acyl radical having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, R 15 for R 15 CO, R 16 for hydrogen, R 17 for is a methyl group, m1, m2 and m3 for 0 and Y for methyl sulfate.
  • quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines of the formula (C6-II) are also suitable as esterquats.
  • ester quats are the quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylar ⁇ ins of the formula (C6-III), R 25 O- (CH 2 CH2 ⁇ ) m 8 ⁇ CR 22 II
  • R CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 23 for hydrogen or R 22 CO
  • R 24 , R 25 and R 26 independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • m7 and m8 in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12
  • X again represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
  • ester quats are substances in which the ester bond is replaced by an amide bond and which preferably follow the formula (C6-IV) based on diethylenetriamine,
  • R 29 I [R 27 CO-NH-CH 2 CH 2 - N + -CH 2 CH 2 -NH-R 28 ] Y- (C6-IV) I R 30 in the R 27 CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 Carbon atoms, R 28 for hydrogen or R 27 CO, R 29 and R 30 independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and Y again for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
  • Such amide ester quats are available on the market, for example, under the Incroquat® (Croda) brand.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the trademark Stepantex ® , Dehyquart ® and Armocare ® sold .
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylarninoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • the cationic surfactants (C6) are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Quantities from 0.05 to 15% by weight are preferred, and quantities from 0.05 to 10% by weight are very particularly preferred.
  • the agent according to the invention additionally contains 0.01 to 15 percent by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10 percent by weight, of at least one synthetic or natural nonionic film-forming polymer.
  • Particularly preferred are those polymers which have sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures to be present in the agent according to the invention in completely dissolved form.
  • Film-forming polymers are understood to mean those polymers which, when dried, leave a continuous film on the skin, hair or nails. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products such as, for example, face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. According to the invention, film-forming polymers are furthermore understood to mean those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 5% aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are able to deposit a polymer film on the hair.
  • Suitable synthetic, nonionic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as, for example, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylamide , Alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably being C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • Homopolymers of vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone or N-vinyl formamide are suitable, for example.
  • Further suitable synthetic film-forming, nonionic hair-fixing polymers are copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, for example, under the trade designations Akypomine ® P 191 by the company CHEM-Y, Emmerich or Sepigel ® 305 distributed by Seppic; Polyvinyl alcohols, which are sold, for example, under the trade names Elvanol ® by Du Pont or Vinol ® 523/540 by Air Products and
  • Polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers which are sold, for example, under the trade names Ucon® by Union Carbide.
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are particularly preferred.
  • Suitable natural film-forming polymers are, for example, cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ® by the company Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg.
  • the teaching according to the invention also includes the additional use of polymers that fix the hair, the so-called setting polymers. These contribute to the hold and / or to the build-up of the hair volume, the fullness of the overall hairstyle.
  • Film-forming polymers and gums are therefore generally typical substances for hair treatment agents such as hair setting agents, hair foams, hair waxes and hair sprays.
  • Substances which further impart hydrophobic properties to the hair are preferred here because they reduce the tendency of the hair to absorb moisture, that is to say water. This reduces the sagging of the hair strands and thus ensures a long-lasting hair style build-up and maintenance.
  • the so-called curl retention test is often used as a test method for this.
  • These polymeric substances can continue to be successfully incorporated into leave-on and rinse-off hair treatments or shampoos. Since polymers are often multifunctional, that is to say that they have several effects which are desired from an application point of view, numerous polymers can be found in several groups which are classified according to the mode of action, including the CTFA manual. Because of the importance of the setting polymers, they should be listed explicitly in the form of their INCI names.
  • the cationic polymers (C) can of course also be found in this list of the polymers which are particularly preferably to be used according to the invention.
  • Examples of common setting polymers are acrylamides / ammonium acrylate copolymers, acrylamides / DMAPA acrylates / methoxy PEG methacrylate copolymers, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chlorides / acrylamides copolymers, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride e / acrylates copolymers, acrylates / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylates copolymers, acrylates / acrylamides copolymers, acrylates / ammonium methacrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C1-2 Succinates / Hydroxyacrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylate / Stearyl Acrylate / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer
  • composition according to the invention is to be formulated in the form of an emulsion, emulsion-stabilizing polymers can advantageously also be used. These are understood to be polymers which substantially support the build-up and stabilization of emulsions (O / W and W / O as well as multiple emulsions).
  • Surfactants and emulsifiers are of course the essential components, but the stabilizing polymers contribute to a reduction in the coalescence of the emulsified droplets by positively influencing the continuous or the disperse phase. This positive influence can be due to electrical repulsion, an increase in viscosity or film formation on the droplet surface.
  • Examples of such polymers are acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylates / aminoacrylates / C 10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / stearyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, alcaligenes polysaccharides , Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium .
  • Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, isopropyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer, lanolin, lanolin alcohol, magnesium alginate, maltodextrin, methoxy PEG-17 / dodecyl glycol copolymer ,.
  • Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer Methylcellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Microcrystalline Wax, Montmorillonite,ixie Lava Clay, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Octadecene / MA Copolymer, Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ozokerite, Poc PEG-350, PEG-400, PEG-500, PEG-12 Camauba, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-6 Hydrogenated Palmamide, PEG-100 / IPDI Copolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M,
  • compositions according to the invention in the form of a gel, wax or cream, it is advantageous to use polymers to adjust the viscosity.
  • Polymers can increase the viscosity of aqueous and non-aqueous phases in cosmetic preparations. In aqueous phases, their viscosity-increasing function is based on their solubility in water or their hydrophilic nature. They are used in both surfactant and emulsion systems.
  • Formamide Copolymer Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate ⁇ / P Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Amylopectin, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Attapulgite, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Bentonite, Butoxy Chitosethyl, Calcium Carboxymine, Caesalpinia Spinach Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitin, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guate, Cellulose Acetoxylate, Cellulose Acetate, Cell
  • Another way of increasing the viscosity of the composition according to the invention is to thicken the non-aqueous phase, the lipid phase.
  • polymers are used which are not water-soluble but compatible with lipids. They are also used for the gel formation of cosmetic products with a high lipid content. Some of these polymers are listed below: Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid / PPG-10 Copolymer, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Alumina Magnesium Metasilicate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Beeswax, Behenyl
  • Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer Bispolyethylene Dimethicone, Butadiene / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Butylene Glycol Montanate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), C29-70 Acid, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester -24 alkyl dimethicone, C24-28 alkyl dimethicone, C1-5 alkyl galactomannan, C18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate, C20-24 alkyl Methicone, C24-28 Alkyl Methicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, C10-30 Cholesterol / Lanosterol Esters, Cellobiose
  • Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Hydrogenated Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Japan Wax, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Styrene / Methyl Styrene / Indene Copolymer, hydroxypropyl cellulose, isobutylene / isoprene copolymer, lithium oxidized polyethylene, methoxy PEG-17 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, methylstyrene / vinyltoluene copolymer, microcrystalline wax, montan acid wax,
  • Styrene / Methacrylamide / Acrylates Copolymer Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Candelilla Wax, Synthetic Camauba, Synthetic Japan Wax, Synthetic Wax, TDI Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Tricontanyl PVP, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Trifluorethylone Propyloriforpyloropyloriforpyloropylorodyloropylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodyloromethane
  • Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer Trimethylpentanediol / Isophthalic Acid / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, VP / Eicosene Copolymer.
  • microparticles filled or unfilled, can also be used in the composition according to the invention both to achieve certain effects, such as the release of an active ingredient from the capsules or to achieve special optical, aesthetic effects of the overall formulation.
  • polymers are incorporated as suspension aids.
  • Suspension aids facilitate the distribution of solids in liquids.
  • the polymers cover the surface of the solid particles by adsorption and thereby change the surface properties of the solids. Examples of these polymers are listed below:
  • Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer AMP-Isostearoyl Gelatin / Keratin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Benzyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caesalpinia Spinosa Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Cocamidopropyldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzedagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrodimonium Hydrolyimonagen Casein Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Dimethicone Hydroxypropyl Trimoni
  • Hydrogenated starch Hydrolysates, hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides,
  • the composition according to the invention can be influenced in a targeted manner, in particular with regard to the setting, softening and antistatic action, if anionic polymers (G2) are also formulated.
  • the anionic polymers (G2) are, inter alia, anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers can consist are acrylic acid, ethacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups can be present in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer have proven to be very particularly effective, the sulfonic acid group being able to be present in whole or in part as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid is obtainable for example under the name Rheothik ® 11-80 commercially.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferred.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester,
  • Preferred aniortic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and .30, to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or Triethanolammonium salt is present.
  • This copolymer can also be crosslinked, the preferred crosslinking agents being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide.
  • a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • This compound which in addition to the polymer component, a hydrocarbon mixture (Ci 3 -C ⁇ -Isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (Laureth-7). contains has proven to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching according to the invention.
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyiether of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether are also color-preserving polymers.
  • a cross-linked with 1, 9-Decadiene-maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name Stabileze® ® QM.
  • Anionic polymers which are also suitable according to the invention include: Vinyl acetate-crotonic acid copolymers, such as are commercially available for example under the names Resyn ® (National Starch), Luviset ® (BASF) and Gafset ® (GAF).
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers obtainable for example under the trade name Luviflex ® (BASF).
  • a preferred polymer is that available under the name Luviflex VBM-35 ® (BASF) vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymers.
  • Acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers which are sold, for example, under the name Ultrahold ® strong (BASF).
  • the agents according to the invention can contain nonionic polymers (G4).
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example: VinylpyrrolidonA ynyl ester copolymers, as are marketed, for example under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF). Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON).
  • siloxanes These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, non-volatile siloxanes being understood to mean those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. at normal pressure.
  • preferred Siloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane, Polyalkylarylsil ⁇ x 'ane, such as polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes, and, polydialkylsiloxanes, the amine and / or hydroxy groups contain polydialkylsiloxanes.
  • - Glycosidically substituted silicones according to EP, 0612759 B1.
  • the preparations used contain several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or each contain an ionic polymer and an amphoteric and / or non-ionic polymer.
  • polymers which are described in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook” (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1 , 101 17 Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Polymers are mentioned in one of the chapters on polymers such as "film formers” or “hair fixatives” and are commercially available. Reference is expressly made to this document and the sections cited from it.
  • the polymers (G) are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • the composition according to the invention can of course also contain further components, in particular active ingredients.
  • the first group of active ingredients is fat (D).
  • Fat substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • Linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms can be used as fatty acids (D1).
  • Fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875
  • isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95
  • all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids were, for example, to name the isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic, Petroselin acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, Gadolein Textre, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures, which occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • the fatty acid cuts which are obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil are usually particularly preferred; the use of stearic acid is generally particularly preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being very particularly advantageous.
  • the fatty alcohols (D2) which can be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 , preferably C 10 -C 22 and very particularly preferably C 2 -C 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols derive from preferably natural fatty acids, usually being obtained from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction.
  • fatty alcohol cuts which are obtained by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil / Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil, or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil / Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil, or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® , for example Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® , e.g. Lanette ® O or Lorol ® , e.g.
  • the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names Cor 'onä ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, based on the entire preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight.
  • Solid paraffins or isoparaffins, camauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, walrus, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes made of PE or PP can be used according to the invention as natural or synthetic waxes (D3).
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the combination of the composition according to the invention with surfactants (E) has also proven to be advantageous.
  • the agents used according to the invention contain surfactants.
  • surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on surfaces and interfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to form micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases.
  • anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group
  • amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge
  • cationic surfactants which in addition to a hydrophobic residue have a positively charged hydrophilic group
  • nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups can be contained in the molecule.
  • suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I), OR * (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n - O - P - OR 2 (El-I) OX
  • R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 1 or X
  • n is a number from 1 to 10
  • X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 are independently hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical, is sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (E1-II) R 7 CO (AlkO) n SO 3 M (E1-II) in the R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH2CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n for numbers of 0 , 5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5, mono
  • Monoglyceride (ether) sulfates are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride,
  • sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acid with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglyper disulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates and
  • Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such connections are, for example
  • alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R 1 CO- (OCH 2 CHR 2 ) w OR 3 (E4-I) in the R 1 CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 2 for hydrogen or methyl, R 3 represents linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w represents numbers from 1 to 20,
  • Sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, the polysorbates
  • the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used.
  • “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are obtained as catalysts from the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates.
  • narrow homolog distributions are obtained if For example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates can be used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.
  • the surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,
  • emulsifiers (F).
  • Emulsifiers cause water or oil-stable adsorption layers to form at the phase interface, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • surfactants emulsifiers are therefore made up of a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is to be understood as a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid with the use of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers is based on the substances to be dispersed and the particular external phase as well as the fine particle size of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H.-D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994".
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • alkyl (oligo) glucosides for example the commercially available product Montanov ® 68,
  • Sterols are understood to be a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on the C atom 3 of the steroid structure and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols, the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from mushrooms and yeasts.
  • Phospholipids are primarily understood to mean the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphididyl cholines from, for example, egg yolk or plant seeds (for example soybeans).
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH), linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca , Mg and Zn salts.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 5-18 can be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • Emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10 to 15 can be very particularly preferred.
  • Protein hydrolyzates and / or amino acids and their derivatives may also be present in the preparations used according to the invention.
  • Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures that are obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed breakdown of proteins (proteins).
  • protein hydrolyzates is also understood to mean total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
  • polymers constructed from amino acids and amino acid derivatives are furthermore to be understood under the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc.
  • L-alanyl-L-proline polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride.
  • ß-amino acids and their derivatives such as ß-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used according to the invention.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolyzates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • protein hydrolyzates of plant, animal, marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which can also be in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois ® (Interorgana), Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Kerasol ® (Croda) sold.
  • protein hydrolysates of plant origin e.g. B. soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), DiaMin ® (Diamalt), Lexein ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), Hydrolupin ® (Croda), Hydrosesame ® (Croda), Hydrotritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • amino acid mixtures obtained in some other way can optionally be used in their place. It is also possible to use derivatives of the protein hydrolyzates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or crotein ® (Croda).
  • the protein hydrolyzates or their derivatives are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • UV filters (I) can have further advantages with regard to the structure of the Hair and thus advantages in terms of combability, shine or volume!
  • the structure and physical properties of the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions. Rather, all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector are suitable, the absorption maximum of which lies in UVA (315-400 nm) -, in UVB (28Q-315nm) - or in UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-amino-benzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4 ' - (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl cyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates) , 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone
  • 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts 1 - (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4- methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3 dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid, 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L- camphor.
  • Preferred UV filters are those whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the water-insoluble compound has, in the context of the teaching according to the invention, the higher activity than those water-soluble compounds which differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups.
  • water-insoluble are UV filters which do not dissolve in water at 20 ° C. by more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight.
  • these compounds should be at least 0.1, in particular at least 1% by weight soluble in conventional cosmetic oil components at room temperature). The use of water-insoluble UV filters can therefore be preferred according to the invention.
  • those UV filters are preferred which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
  • UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
  • the structural part U stands for a group that absorbs UV rays.
  • this group can be derived from the known UV filters mentioned above, which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, usually a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary amino function , Connections from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example - substituted benzophenones,
  • Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.
  • the structural parts U can in principle be selected so that the absorption maximum of the UV filter can be both in the UVA (315-400 nm) - and in the UVB (280-315nm) - or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range.
  • UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the structural part U is preferably selected such that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the structural part Q preferably contains a quaternary ammonium group as the cationic group.
  • this quaternary ammonium group can be directly connected to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is preferably a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a connection between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • the group Q advantageously has the general structure - (CH 2 ) ⁇ -N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X " , in which x represents an integer from 1 to 4, R and R 2 independently of one another are C- - Alkyl groups, R 3 stands for a -C 22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X " for a. Physiologically compatible anion.
  • x preferably represents the number 3, R 1 and R 2 each for a methyl group and R 3 either for a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain with 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions, and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions
  • organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • UV filters with cationic groups are the 'available as commercial products compounds Zimtklareamidopropyl- trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching according to the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
  • the UV filters (I) are usually contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.4-2.5% by weight are preferred.
  • the effect of the combination according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • Another object of the invention is therefore the use of the active ingredient in Combination with derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid.
  • Preferred are the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries one to three d to C 4 alkyl groups in addition to hydrogen.
  • the sodium salt is very particularly preferred.
  • Those amounts used in the inventive compositions are from 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total composition, more preferably 0.1 to 5, and especially 0.1 to 3 wt.%.
  • active ingredient (A) with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) has also proven to be advantageous.
  • Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred according to the invention.
  • Retinol (vitamin A and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ) belong to the group of substances designated as vitamin A.
  • ⁇ -carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A acid and their esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and their esters such as palmitate and acetate are considered The preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the entire preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
  • Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • nicotinic acid and nicotinamide are often listed under this name. According to the invention, preference is given to the nicotinamide which is used in the compounds according to the invention agents used is preferably contained in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • pantbenol panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used.
  • Derivatives of pantbenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters, and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and the potassium panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the compounds of the vitamin B 5 type mentioned are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin ⁇ (pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferably used in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total agent. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates can be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent , Vitamin F.
  • Vitamin F usually means essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H The compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexa- hydrothienol [3,4-c /] - imidazole-4-valeric acid is called vitamin H, but for which there is the trivial name biotin has now become established.
  • Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
  • Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • extracts are usually produced by extracting the entire plant. In individual cases, however, it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • the extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, valerian, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera , coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange are particularly preferred.
  • the extracts from green tea, valerian, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are particularly suitable for the use according to the invention. ,. ,
  • Alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extractants for the production of the plant extracts mentioned.
  • alcohols lower alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyhydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, are preferred both as the sole extracting agent and as a mixture with water.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction.
  • mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the agents according to the invention may be preferred.
  • penetration aids and / or swelling agents are included. These auxiliaries ensure better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber.
  • urea and urea derivatives include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as, for example, 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1st , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.
  • short-chain carboxylic acids can additionally support the combination according to the invention.
  • Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives for the purposes of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which can be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750.
  • the short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention can have one, two, three or more carboxy groups.
  • carboxylic acids having several carboxy groups preference is given to carboxylic acids having several carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids.
  • the carboxy groups can be present in whole or in part as an ester, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester.
  • the carboxylic acids according to the invention can of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring structure.
  • the substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, C1-C8-alkyl, G2-C8-alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl, G2-C8 -Aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups.
  • Preferred substituents are C1-C8-alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, • amino and carboxy groups.
  • Substituents in the ⁇ position are particularly preferred. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxyuride amino groups, the
  • alkyl optionally substituted by alkyl: aryl; Aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals can be further substituted.
  • preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.
  • carboxylic acids are formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, propolic acid, sebacic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, azelaic acid, azelaic acid, Isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluoylic acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, 6
  • n a number from 4 to .12 and one of the two groups X and Y for a COOH group and the other for hydrogen or a methyl or ethyl radical
  • dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (Nl) which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring
  • Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-1) are known in the literature.
  • German patent specification 22 50 055 discloses the use of these dicarboxylic acids in liquid soap compositions. From German published patent application 28 33 291 deodorising agents are known which contain zinc or magnesium salts of these dicarboxylic acids. Finally, from German Offenlegungsschrift 35 03 618 agents for washing and rinsing the hair are known, in which the addition of these dicarboxylic acids gives a noticeably improved hair cosmetic effect of the water-soluble ionic polymers contained in the agent. Finally, from German published patent application 197 54 053 agents for hair treatment are known which have nourishing effects.
  • the dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization.
  • a polyunsaturated fatty acid is usually used as the dicarboxylic acid component.
  • the linoleic acid accessible from natural fats and oils is preferred.
  • Acrylic acid, but also, for example, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are particularly preferred as the monocarboxylic acid component.
  • Reactions according to Diels-Alder usually produce isome- Rengemische in which one component is in excess. According to the invention, these isomer mixtures can be used just like the pure compounds.
  • those dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds of the formula (Nl) by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally by addition of one of these compounds can also be used according to the invention Molecule water is formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.
  • the dicarboxylic acid (mixture) which results from the reaction of linoleic acid with acrylic acid has proven to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexen-1-octanoic acid.
  • Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ® ® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).
  • polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and pplyhydroxy di, tri and polycarboxylic acids together with dpm active ingredient (A). It has been shown here that, in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred.
  • Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid.
  • Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols with 8-22 C atoms, for example fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols.
  • the esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
  • Particularly preferred polyhydroxy polycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and poly-tartaric acid and their esters.
  • polyhydroxy compounds are understood to mean all substances which meet the definition in Römpp 's Lexikon der Chemie, Version 2.0 of the CD-ROM edition of 1999, published by Georg Thieme. Accordingly, polyhydroxy compounds are understood to mean organic compounds with at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • this includes in particular: Polyols with at least two hydroxyl groups and with a carbon chain of 2 to 30 carbon atoms such as trimethylolpropane, ethoxylates and / or propoxylates with 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and or propylene oxide of the aforementioned polyols, carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugars and their salts, especially monosaccharides, Disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and also protected by customary -OH - and -NH - protective groups, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and further- in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester, aminodeoxy sugar, deoxy sugar, thio sugar, these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and protected by customary and known in the literature
  • monosaccharides with 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as, for example, trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, these also being in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary OH and NH protecting groups known in the literature, such as, for example, the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and also in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester,
  • oligosaccharides with up to 50 monomer units these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary OH and NH protecting groups known in the literature, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups as well as in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester.
  • Very particularly preferred polyols of the present invention are polyols having 2 to 12 carbon atoms in the molecular structure. These polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or unsaturated.
  • the hydroxyl groups are very particularly preferably adjacent at the end or separated from one another by the rest of the chain.
  • polystyrene resin examples include polyethylene glycol up to a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, neopentyl glycol, partial glycerol ether with a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butanediol , 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, pentanediols, for example 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1,2- Hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 4-cyclo-hexanediol, 1, 2-cyclo-hexanediol, heptanedi
  • Sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrites, pentites, hexites, threitols, erythritol, adonites, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose are further examples of the polyols according to the invention.
  • teaching according to the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as eis-trans isomers, diastereomers, epimers, anomers and chiral isomers. According to the invention, it is also possible to use a mixture of several polyols (B).
  • the polyols (B) according to the invention are in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from .0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0, 1% by weight contain up to 10% by weight.
  • the consumer may associate the composition according to the invention with a stimulant.
  • a stimulant in particular in children, does not entirely rule out oral intake or swallowing of the composition.
  • the compositions according to the invention therefore contain a bitter substance in order to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion.
  • Bitter substances are preferred according to the invention which are soluble in water at 20 ° C. to at least 5 g / l.
  • the ionogenic bitter substances have proven to be superior to the nonionic, ionogenic bitter substances, preferably consisting of organic cation (s) and organic anion (s) are therefore preferred for the preparations according to the invention.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are particularly suitable as bitter substances.
  • Such a connection is commercially, for example Benzyldiethyl ((2,6-xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate available under the trademarks Bitrex ® and Indige-stin ® .
  • This compound is also known as Denatonium Benzoate.
  • the bitter substance is present in the shaped bodies according to the invention in amounts of 0.0005 to 0.1% by weight, based on the shaped body. Quantities of 0.001 to 0.05% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • these preparations can in principle contain all further components known to those skilled in the art for such cosmetic products.
  • auxiliaries and additives are, for example non-ionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate
  • Thickening agents such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums,
  • Dextrans cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and
  • Amylopectin and dextrins clays such as e.g. B. bentonite or fully synthetic
  • Hydrocolloids such as B. polyvinyl alcohol, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, - for example
  • Soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephaline, as well as silicone oils are soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephaline, as well as silicone oils,
  • Solvents and intermediates such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol,
  • quaternized amines such as methyl 1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
  • anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazol
  • - opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate,
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • the agent according to the invention is preferably made up in an aqueous, an alcoholic or in an aqueous alcoholic medium with preferably at least 10 percent by weight of water.
  • the lower alcohols with 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as ethanol and isopropanol, can be used as alcohols be included.
  • the agent according to the invention can be present in a pH range from 2 to 11. The pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred
  • Organic solvents or a can be used as additional co-solvents
  • solvents with a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0.1 'to 15 weight percent, preferably from ' 1 to 10 weight percent.
  • Unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane are particularly suitable as additional co-solvents.
  • Other particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 percent by weight.
  • the agent according to the invention can be used in various application forms, for example as a lotion, as a non-aerosol spray lotion, which is used by means of a mechanical device for spraying, as an aerosol foam or as a non-aerosol foam, which in combination with a suitable mechanical Device for foaming the composition is present.
  • a lotion thickened with a conventional thickener is also possible.
  • the agent according to the invention is in the form of a setting hair lotion, it is in the form of a non-viscous solution, dispersion or emulsion containing at least 10% by weight, preferably 20 to 95% by weight, of a cosmetically acceptable alcohol.
  • a cosmetically acceptable alcohol such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • the lotion according to the invention is packaged in a portion bottle and can be applied directly to the hair from it.
  • the packaging can be equipped with a nozzle, by means of which it can be applied directly to the hairline.
  • a particularly preferred form of application is a non-aerosol spray lotion.
  • the agent according to the invention is sprayed with the aid of a suitable mechanically operated spraying device. Under mechanical
  • Spraying devices are to be understood as those devices which make it possible to spray a liquid without using a propellant.
  • a suitable mechanical spraying device can be, for example, a spray pump or an elastic container provided with a spray valve, in which the cosmetic agent according to the invention is filled under pressure, the elastic container expanding and from which the agent as a result of the
  • the agent according to the invention is in the form of a setting hair foam (mousse), it contains at least one customary foaming substance known for this purpose.
  • the agent is foamed with or without the help of propellant gases or chemical propellants and incorporated into the hair as a foam and left in the hair without rinsing.
  • a hair foam according to the invention has a chemical blowing agent and / or a mechanical device for foaming the composition as an additional component.
  • Mechanical foaming devices are to be understood as devices which allow the foaming of a liquid with or without the use of a blowing agent.
  • a commercially available pump foamer or an aerosol foam head, for example, can be used as a suitable mechanical foaming device.
  • the agent according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic non-aerosol spray lotion in combination with a suitable mechanical device for spraying or in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic lotion containing: (A) at least 0.01% by weight of at least one terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and an acrylate monomer of the formula (Al), (B) at least 0.01% by weight of at least one hair care substance selected from a -.
  • the proportions of all components are preferably set so that a clear solution results.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention is applied by applying it in an amount sufficient to achieve the volume effect on damp, towel-dried hair. Then the hairstyle can be shaped in the usual way or the hair can be inserted and finally blow-dried. But it is also possible to apply the product directly to dry hair to refresh the volume effect.
  • This formula was used to determine curl retention compared to a water wave (pure water) and a market setting (Wellaflex 24 h volume).
  • strands of hair with a length of 0.21 m and a weight of about 3 g are completely immersed in the respective setting agent for 30 s.
  • the excess of the setting agent is removed by wiping between two fingers.
  • the fact that the amounts of fixer ingested are each about 1 g
  • Foam hair fixer 2A 2B Polyquatemium-11 1.8% vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate 3.0% 2.5 copolymer
  • the mixture of active ingredients was filled in a ratio of 95: 5 with propane / butane 5.0 as propellant in an aerosol can with a foam valve.

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Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic agents that provide volume and contain a special combination of a terpolymer comprising vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, and an acrylate monomer, additional hair care substances, and at least one cationic compound.

Description

Volumengebendes kosmetisches Mittel Bulking cosmetic
Eine ansprechend aussehende Frisur wird heute allgemein als unverzichtbarer Teil eines gepflegten Äußeren angesehen. Dabei gelten aufgrund von aktuellen Modeströmungen immer wieder Frisuren als chic, die sich bei vielen Haartypen nur unter Verwendung bestimmter festigender Wirkstoffe aufbauen bzw. für einen längeren Zeitraum bis hin zu mehreren Tagen aufrechterhalten lassen.An attractive looking hairstyle is now generally considered an indispensable part of a well-groomed exterior. Due to current fashion trends, hairstyles are always considered chic, which for many hair types can only be built up using certain setting agents or can be maintained for a longer period of time up to several days.
Haarbehandlungsmittel, die dem Haar mehr Volumen und Halt geben, sind bekannt. Die für diese Zwecke üblicherweise eingesetzten kosmetischen Polymere zeigen in wäßrigen, wäßrig-alkoholischen oder alkoholischen Lösungen gute Festigungseigenschaften, die nach der Anwendung mehr oder weniger gut die Haare verformen und festigen und die dem Haar zusätzlich auch mehr Volumen geben können. Häufig hält dieser Effekt aber nicht lange an und schon beim Durchkämmen der Haare geht der erwünschte Volumeneffekt teilweise wieder verloren. Insbesondere bei feinem Haar fällt die Frisur bereits innerhalb weniger Stunden mindestens teilweise wieder zusammen, d.h. der Volumeneffekt hält nicht über einen ganzen Tag von morgens bis abends sondern höchstens bis zu etwa 3 Stunden an. Viele der festigenden oder Volumen gebenden Polymere haben darüber hinaus häufig unerwünschte Nebeneffekte, die sich dadurch bemerkbar machen, daß das behandelte Haar einen zu rauhen Griff, eine zu hohe Belastung oder eine ungenügende Elastizität aufweist oder sich zuviele sichtbare Rückstände auf dem Haar bilden. Auch eine unzureichende Auswaschbarkeit nach der Anwendung dieser Haarbehandlungsmittel ist immer noch ein Problem. Diese festigenden Wirkstoffe, bei denen es sich in der Regel um polymere Verbindungen handelt, können in übliche Haarreinigungs- oder -konditioniermittel eingearbeitet werden. In vielen Fällen ist es aber vorteilhaft, sie in Form spezieller Mittel wie Haarfestiger, Haargelen, Haarwachsen oder Haarsprays anzuwenden.Hair treatment agents that give the hair more volume and hold are known. The cosmetic polymers usually used for these purposes show good strengthening properties in aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic solutions, which deform and strengthen the hair more or less well after use and which can also give the hair more volume. Often, however, this effect does not last long and the desired volume effect is sometimes lost when you comb your hair. Especially with fine hair, the hairstyle collapses at least partially within a few hours, ie the volume effect does not last for a whole day from morning to evening but at most up to about 3 hours. In addition, many of the setting or bulking polymers frequently have undesirable side effects, which are noticeable in the fact that the treated hair has too rough a handle, too high a load or insufficient elasticity or there are too many visible residues on the hair. Inadequate washability after using these hair treatment products is still a problem. These setting agents, which are usually polymeric compounds, can be incorporated into conventional hair cleaners or conditioners. In many cases, however, it is advantageous to use them in the form of special agents such as hair fixers, hair gels, hair waxes or hair sprays.
Ein entscheidender Mangel der heutigen haarfestigenden Mittel ist insbesondere eine unzureichende Kämmbarkeit im nassen Haar speziell im Bereich der Haarspitzen. Das Haar ist aufgrund seiner Lebensdauer in der Regel besonders im Bereich der Haarspitzen am längsten die Haarstruktur belastenden Eihflüßen ausgesetzt. Daher bedarf gerade dieser Bereich einer besonderen Beachtung bei der Entwicklung von haarkosmetischen Zusammensetzungen. Die heutigen haarfestigenden Mittel führen zwar im Bereich des Haaransatzes und der Haarlängen zu einer zufriedenstellenden Kämmbarkeit insbesondere des nassen Haares, jedoch versagen sie im Bereich der Haarspitzen. Dies spürt der Verbraucher durch einen erhöhten Kämmwiderstand im Spitzenbereich, welcher sogar bis hin zum' Häarbruch beim Kämmen des Haares führen kann. Im Kamm befinden sich in diesem Falle die verknoteten und unansehnlich aussehenden und möglicherweise sogar verfilzten Haarspitzen. Weder kationische Verbindungen noch filmbildende Polymere können die Kämmbarkeiten des Haares im Bereich der Haarspitzen in ausreichendem Maße positiv beeinflußen.A crucial deficiency of today's hair-setting agents is, in particular, inadequate combability in wet hair, especially in the area of the hair tips. Due to its lifespan, hair is usually the longest exposed egg flow, particularly in the area of the hair tips. This area in particular therefore requires special attention when developing hair cosmetic compositions. Today's hair-setting agents lead to satisfactory combability, especially of wet hair, in the area of the hairline and the hair lengths, but they fail in the area of the hair tips. This sense of consumers by an increased resistance to combing in the toe area, which can even lead up to the 'Häarbruch while combing the hair. In this case, the knotted and unsightly looking and possibly even matted hair tips are in the comb. Neither cationic compounds nor film-forming polymers can sufficiently influence the combability of the hair in the area of the hair tips.
Polymere Verbindungen werden in kosmetischen Mitteln vielfach und mit zunehmender Bedeutung eingesetzt. Sie besitzen zahlreiche Funktionen und Wirkungen, häufig sind sie selbst multifunktional und zeigen in einer einzigen Struktur gleich mehrere erwünschte Wirkungen für das betreffende kosmetische Mittel. So können mit Polymeren kosmetische Mittel gezielt auf die gewünschten rheologischen Eigenschaften eingestellt werden. Beispielsweise können sie Wasser binden und dadurch Viskosität aufbauen. Gleichzeitig bedeutet gebundenes Wasser in kosmetischen Mittel aber auch eine Reduktion der Wasseraktivität, was für die Verkeimung des betreffenden Mittels wichtig sein kann. Wenn die Aktivität des freien Wassers zu gering ist, so können sich darin keine Keime mehr lösen und entwickeln. Das betreffende Mittel muß dann gar nicht oder zumindest deutlich geringer konserviert werden. Multifunktional bedeutet in diesem Zusammenhang, daß der Einsatz eines polymeren Rohstoffes in einer Zusammensetzung mehrere Funktionen gleichzeitig erfüllt.Polymeric compounds are widely used in cosmetic products and are becoming increasingly important. They have numerous functions and effects, often they are themselves multifunctional and show several desired effects for the cosmetic product in question in a single structure. Cosmetics can be used to adjust the cosmetic properties to the desired rheological properties. For example, they can bind water and thereby build up viscosity. At the same time, bound water in cosmetic products also means a reduction in water activity, which can be important for the contamination of the product in question. If the activity of the free water is too low, germs can no longer dissolve and develop in it. The agent in question must then not conserved or at least significantly less. In this context, multifunctional means that the use of a polymeric raw material in a composition fulfills several functions simultaneously.
Es hat viele Bemühungen gegeben, die haarfestigenden Mittel weiterzuentwickeln und zu optimieren. So ersetzten in der Vergangenheit beispielsweise Mittel auf wäßriger Basis Mittel auf der Basis von flüchtigen organischen Verbindungen. Dabei entstand das Problem der geringeren Flüchtigkeit von Wasser im Vergleich zu den Alkoholen, was sich in längeren Trocknungszeiten auf dem Haar niederschlägt. Weiterhin ist aufgrund der häufig schlechteren Löslichkeit polymerer Verbindungen in wäßrigen Systemen diese Umstellung auch häufig mit dem Nachteil verbunden, daß beim Aufbringen der gewünschten Polymermenge auf das Haar Wasser zwangsläufig in solchen Mengen auf das Haar gelangt, daß die Trocknungszeiten unakzeptabel lang werden. Aus diesen Problemen heraus resultieren auch starke Schwankungen in der Dosierung der Mittel durch den Verbraucher. Eine weitere Forderung der Verbraucher nach einer ökologischen Alternative zu Haarpflegemitteln mit festigender Wirkung in Form von Schäumen oder Sprays ist auch mit Mitteln auf der Basis überwiegend von Wasser als Lösemittel in noch nicht ausreichendem Maße erfüllt.There have been many efforts to further develop and optimize the hair-setting agents. For example, in the past, water-based agents have replaced volatile organic compounds. This created the problem of the lower volatility of water compared to alcohols, which is reflected in the longer drying times on the hair. Furthermore, due to the often poorer solubility of polymeric compounds in aqueous systems, this changeover is often associated with the disadvantage that when the desired amount of polymer is applied to the hair, water inevitably reaches the hair in such amounts that the drying times become unacceptably long. These problems also result in large fluctuations in the dosage of the funds by the consumer. A further demand by consumers for an ecological alternative to hair care products with a setting effect in the form of foams or sprays has not yet been adequately met with products based primarily on water as a solvent.
Weitere Haarpflegeprodukte zur Frisurengestaltung sind Haarwachse. Haarwachse enthalten als formgebende Komponente neben den Polymeren in der Regel pflanzliche, tierische oder mineralische Wachse und werden als feste Formulierungen, meist in Tiegeln, angeboten. Für die Anwendung wird eine gewisse Menge dem Tiegel entnommen, sodann in der Hand verrieben und auf dem Haar verteilt. Durch diese Haarwachse wird auf Basis natürlicher Rohstoffe ein guter Halt der Haare bewirkt unter gleichzeitig starker Glanzgebung. Dennoch können die auf dem Markt befindlichen Haarwachse die Wünsche der Anwender hinsichtlich einfacher und sauberer Applikation und leichter Verteilung auf dem Haar noch nicht vollständig befriedigen. So kann hier das genaue, einfache und gleichbleibend reproduzierbare Dosieren ein Problem sein. Zusätzlich wird auch hier ein langanhaltender Frisurenhalt bis hin zu mehreren Tagen bei einer gleichzeitigen leichten Auswaschbarkeit gewünscht.Other hair care products for hair styling are hair waxes. As a shaping component, hair waxes usually contain, in addition to the polymers, vegetable, animal or mineral waxes and are offered as solid formulations, usually in jars. For use, a certain amount is removed from the jar, then rubbed in the hand and spread over the hair. These hair waxes, based on natural raw materials, ensure a good hold of the hair with a strong shine. Nevertheless, the hair waxes on the market cannot yet completely satisfy the wishes of the users with regard to simple and clean application and easy distribution on the hair. So here the exact, simple and consistently reproducible dosing can be a problem. In addition, a long-lasting hairstyle hold up to several days with simultaneous easy washability is also desired here.
Aus der WO 96/19971 sind Terpolymere aus Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylcaprolactam und 3-(N-Dimethylaminopropyl)-methacrylamid bekannt sowie deren Verwendung in haarfestigenden Mitteln, insbesondere in Aerosol- und Pumpsprays. Diese Polymere sind besonders für einen Einsatz in wasserhaltigen Sprayrezepturen mit einem reduzierten Gehalt an leicht flüchtigen organischen Bestandteilen (low VOC-Sprays) geeignet. Die Polymere haben gute festigende Eigenschaften, verleihen dem Haar aber einen relativen rauhen Griff und eine relativ hohe Belastung.From WO 96/19971 terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and 3- (N-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide are known and their use in hair-setting agents, in particular in aerosol and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-based spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic components (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good setting properties, but give the hair a relatively rough feel and a relatively high load.
Aus der WO 96/19967 sind Copolymere aus Vinylpyrrolidon und 3-(N- Dimethylaminopropyl)-methacrylamid bekannt sowie deren Verwendung in haarfestigenden Mitteln, insbesondere in Aerosol- und Pumpsprays. Diese Polymere sind besonders für einen Einsatz in wasserhaltigen Sprayrezepturen mit einem reduzierten Gehalt an leicht flüchtigen organischen Bestandteilen (low VOC-Sprays) geeignet. Die Polymere haben gute festigende Eigenschaften, verleihen dem Haar aber einen relativen rauhen Griff und eine relativ hohe Belastung. Außerdem ist der haarfestigende Effekt nur von kurzer Dauer.Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and 3- (N-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide are known from WO 96/19967, and their use in hair-setting agents, in particular in aerosol and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-based spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic components (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good setting properties, but give the hair a relatively rough feel and a relatively high load. In addition, the hair-setting effect is short-lived.
Aus der WO 96/19966 sind Terpolymere aus Vinylpyrrolidon, 3- Methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl-ammoniumchlorid und C4-C32-Alkylmethacrylat bekannt sowie deren Verwendung in haarfestigenden Mitteln, insbesondere in Aerosol- und Pumpsprays. Diese Polymere sind besonders für einen Einsatz in wasserhaltigen Sprayrezepturen mit einem reduzierten Gehalt an leicht flüchtigen organischen Bestandteilen (low VOC-Sprays) geeignet. Die Polymere haben gute festigende Eigenschaften, verleihen dem Haar aber einen relativen rauhen Griff und eine relativ hohe Belastung. Außerdem ist der haarfestigende Effekt nur von kurzer Dauer. Aus der EP 1 075 832 sind Terpolymere aus Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylcaprolactam und 3-(N-Dimethylaminopropyl)-methacrylamid bekannt sowie deren Verwendung in haarfestigenden Mitteln, insbesondere in Aerosol- und Pumpsprays. Diese Polymere sind besonders für einen Einsatz in wasserhaltigen Sprayrezepturen mit einem reduzierten Gehalt an leicht flüchtigen organischen Bestandteilen (low VOC-Sprays) geeignet. Die Polymere haben gute festigende Eigenschaften, verleihen dem Haar aber einen relativen rauhen Griff. Bei der Anwendung dieser Zusammensetzungen wird insbesondere die Weichheit der Haare, der Glanz sowie die schwierige Kämmbarkeit der Haare als nachteilig empfunden.From WO 96/19966 terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, 3-methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and C4-C32-alkyl methacrylate are known and their use in hair-setting agents, in particular in aerosol and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-based spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic components (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good setting properties, but give the hair a relatively rough feel and a relatively high load. In addition, the hair-setting effect is short-lived. Terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and 3- (N-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide are known from EP 1 075 832 and their use in hair-setting agents, in particular in aerosol and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-based spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic components (low VOC sprays). The polymers have good setting properties, but give the hair a relatively rough feel. When these compositions are used, the softness of the hair, the shine and the difficulty of combing the hair are perceived as disadvantageous.
Aus der EP 0 074 191 sind Terpolymere aus Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylcaprolactam und Dialkyldiaminometh-acrylaten bekannt sowie deren Verwendung in haarfestigenden Mitteln, insbesondere in Aerosol- und Pumpsprays.. Diese Polymere sind besonders für einen Einsatz in wasserhaltigen Sprayrezepturen mit einem reduzierten Gehalt an leicht flüchtigen organischen Bestandteilen (low VOC-Sprays) geeignet. Die Polymere haben gute festigende Eigenschaften, verleihen dem Haar aber einen relativen rauhen Griff und eine relativ hohe Belastung.Terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and dialkyldiaminomethacrylates are known from EP 0 074 191 and their use in hair-setting agents, in particular in aerosol and pump sprays. These polymers are particularly suitable for use in water-containing spray formulations with a reduced content of volatile organic compounds Ingredients (low VOC sprays) suitable. The polymers have good setting properties, but give the hair a relatively rough feel and a relatively high load.
Es besteht daher weiterhin die Aufgabe, entsprechende Mittel zu entwickeln, die hinsichtlich der anwendungstechnischen Eigenschaften, beispielsweise dem langandauernden Halt der Frisur, insbesondere einem ianganhaltenden (bis hin zu Tagen) hohen Volumen, der Fülle, der leichten Kämmbarkeit des nassen und trockenen Haares zum Formen der Frisuren, insbesondere im Bereich der Haarspitzen, dem Glanz, dem samtig, geschmeidigen Griff der Haare, der Möglichkeit des Formens von Frisuren und einer kurzen Trocknungszeit bei festigenden Haarpflegemitteln sowie der Flexibilität der geformten Frisur und der Auswaschbarkeit der Zusammensetzungen die vom Verbraucher gesteckten Erwartungen erfüllen. Es wurde nun gefunden, daß • die ' Aufgabe gelöst wird durch ein Haarbehandlungsmittel mit einem Gehalt an (A) mindestens 0,01 Gew.% mindestens eines Terpolymeren aus Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylcaprolactam und einem Acrylatmόnomer der Formel (A-l), (B) mindestens 0,01 Gew.% mindestens eines haarpflegenden Stoffes ausgewählt aus einer der Gruppen der natürlichen und synthetischen - Fettkörper (B1) oder - ausgewählter nicht-ionischer Tenside (B2) oder einer Mischung aus jeweils mindestens einem Stoff ausgewählt aus jeweils einer dieser Gruppen und ' (C) mindestens einer kationaktiven Verbindung.There is therefore still the task of developing appropriate agents that can be shaped with regard to the application properties, for example the long-lasting hold of the hairstyle, in particular a long-lasting (up to days) high volume, the fullness, the easy combability of the wet and dry hair the hairstyles, especially in the area of the hair tips, the shine, the velvety, smooth feel of the hair, the possibility of shaping hairstyles and a short drying time for setting hair products, as well as the flexibility of the shaped hairstyle and the washability of the compositions meet the expectations of the consumer , It has now been found that • the object is achieved by a hair treatment composition containing (A) at least 0.01% by weight of at least one terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and an acrylate monomer of the formula (Al), (B) at least 0 , 01% by weight of at least one hair-care substance selected from one of the groups of natural and synthetic - fatty substances (B1) or - selected non-ionic surfactants (B2) or a mixture of at least one substance selected from each of these groups and '( C) at least one cation-active compound.
Das Terpolymer (A) ist in dem erfindungsgemäßen Mittel vorzugsweise in einer Menge von 0,01 bis 20, besonders bevorzugt von 0,1 bis 10 Gewichtsprozent, der haarpflegende Stoff (B) in einer Menge von 0,01 bis 30, besonders bevorzugt von 0,05 bis 20 Gewichtsprozent und die kationische Verbindung (C) in einer Menge von 0,01 bis 20 bevorzugt von 0,05 bis 15 Gewichtsprozent enthalten.The terpolymer (A) in the agent according to the invention is preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 10 percent by weight, the hair care substance (B) in an amount of 0.01 to 30, particularly preferably of 0.05 to 20 weight percent and the cationic compound (C) in an amount of 0.01 to 20, preferably from 0.05 to 15 weight percent.
Geeignete Terpolymere (A) sind solche, bei denen das Acrylatmonomer der Formel (A-l) entspricht, worin CH2=CR1-COOR2-NR3R4R5 (A-l) R1 für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe steht, R2 für eine Methylengruppe oder eine verzweigte oder lineare, gesättigte oder ungesättigte C2- bis C20- Alkylen- oder Alkenylengruppe steht, R3, R4 und R5 unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff, Methyl- oder C2- bis C4- Alkylgruppe. Bevorzugt ist hierbei als Monomer ein Dialkylaminoalkylacrylat und -methacrylat. Besonders bevorzugt sind die Monomere Dimethylaminoethylacrylat und -methacrylat. Die Herstellung derartiger Polymere wird in der EP 0 074 191 beschrieben. Unter der Bezeichnung Gaffix® VC 713 (ISP) oder Copolymer VC 713 (ISP) sind solche Polymere im Handel erhältlich.Suitable terpolymers (A) are those in which the acrylate monomer corresponds to the formula (Al) in which CH 2 = CR 1 -COOR 2 -NR 3 R 4 R 5 (Al) R 1 is hydrogen or a methyl group, R 2 is represents a methylene group or a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated C2 to C20 alkylene or alkenylene group, R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent hydrogen, methyl or C2 to C4 alkyl group. A dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate is preferred as the monomer. The monomers dimethylaminoethyl acrylate and methacrylate are particularly preferred. The production of such polymers is described in EP 0 074 191. Under the Name Gaffix ® VC 713 (ISP) or copolymer VC 713 (ISP) such polymers are commercially available.
Geeignete haarpflegende Stoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind als haarpflegende Verbindungen natürliche und synthetische kosmetische Olkörper (B1). Hierzu sind beispielsweise zu zählen:Suitable hair care substances in the sense of the present invention are natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (B1) as hair care compounds. This includes, for example:
- pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkemöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle.- vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach seed oil and the liquid components of coconut oil. Other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable.
- flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n- nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n- Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n- Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3- ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl- pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1 ,3- Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol® OE) können bevorzugt sein.liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3- di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
- Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von Cβ - C3o - Fettsäuren mit C2 - C3o - Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethyl- hexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosyn- these oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinälkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, ' Myristylalkohol, . Cetylalkohol,- ester oils. Ester oils are understood to be the esters of Cβ - C 3 o - fatty acids with C 2 - C 3 o - fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid moieties in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, Bhenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are used, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosyn- thesis or dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol fractions in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, capro alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, 'myristyl alcohol,. cetyl alcohol,
Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalko- hol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalko.hol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassi- dylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit® IPM), Isononansäure- C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol® 868),, Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkohol-caprinat -caprylat (Cetiol® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol® V).Palmoleyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, Elaidylalko- hol, petroselinyl, Linolylalko.hol, linolenyl, elaeostearyl, arachyl, gadoleyl, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl dylalkohol and technical mixtures thereof, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical Methylestern based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention particularly preferably isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ®), Isononansäure- C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ® 868) ,, cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, cocofatty alcohol -caprinate -caprylate (Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, olerlerucate (Cetiol ® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol ® ), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol ® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ® V).
Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2- ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2- ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454, Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol® CC), Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin, Fettsäureester von Polyhydroxyverbindungen. Unter Polyhydroxyverbindungen im Sinne der Erfindung werden alle Substanzen verstanden, welche die Definition in Römpp's Lexikon der Chemie, Version 2.0 der CD - ROM Ausgabe von 1999, Verlag Georg Thieme, erfüllen. Demnach sind unter Polyhydroxyverbindungen organische Verbindungen mit mindestens zwei Hydroxygruppen zu verstehen. Insbesondere sind im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung hierunter zu verstehen:Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (dicaprylic carbonate ® CC), trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerin, fatty acid esters of polyhydroxy compounds. In the context of the invention, polyhydroxy compounds include all substances understood which meet the definition in Römpp ' s Lexikon der Chemie, Version 2.0 of the CD - ROM edition from 1999, published by Georg Thieme. Accordingly, polyhydroxy compounds are understood to mean organic compounds with at least two hydroxyl groups. For the purposes of the present invention, this includes in particular:
Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Haηdelsprodukt Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol - Typen (Cognis), aus Fettsäure und/oder Fettsäurederivaten und Polyolen mit mindestens zwei Hydroxygruppen, und mit einer Kohlenstoffkette von 2 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen wie beispielsweise Fettsäureester von Trimethylolpropan,Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the Haηdelsprodukt Hydagen ® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis), of fatty acid and / or fatty acid derivatives and polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups and having a carbon chain of 2 to 30 carbon atoms such as fatty acid ester of trimethylolpropane,
Fettsäureester von Kohlenhydraten, Zuckeralkoholen und Zuckern, insbesondere Fettsäureester von Monosacchariden, Disacchariden, Trisacchariden und Oligosacchariden, wobei diese auch in Form von Aldosen, Ketosen und/oder Lactosen sowie in Form der Methylether und als Phosphatester, vorliegen können, Bevorzugt sind hierunter die Fettsäureester von Monosacchariden mit 3 bis 8 C - Atomen, wie beispielsweise von Triosen, Tetrosen, Pentosen, Hexosen, Heptosen und Octosen, wobei diese auch in Form von Aldosen, Ketosen und/oder Lactosen sowie weiterhin in Form der Methylether und als Phosphatester, vorliegen können. Ganz besonders bevorzugte Polyole, welche in Form ihrer Ester mit Fettsäuren verwendet werden, sind im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung Polyole mit 2 bis 12 C-Atomen im Molekülgerüst. Diese Polyole können geradkettig, verzweigt, cyclisch und/oder ungesättigt sein. Die Hydroxygruppen sind dabei ganz besonders bevorzugt endständig benachbart oder endständig durch den Rest der Kette voneinander getrennt. Als Beispiele für diese Polyole seien genannt: Glykoi, Neopentylglykol, 1 ,2- Propandiol, 1 ,3-Propandiol, 1 ,2-Butandiol, 1 ,3-Butandiol, 1 ,4-Butandiol, 1 ,2,3- Butantriol, 1 ,2,4-Butantriol, Pentandiole, beispielsweise 1,2-Pentandiol, 1 ,5- Pentandiol, Hexandiole, 1 ,2-Hexandiol, 1 ,6-Hexandiol, 1 ,2,6-Hexantriol, 1 ,4- cyclo-Hexandiol, 1 ,2-cyclo-Hexandiol, Heptandiole, 1 ,2-Heptandiol, 1 ,7- Heptandiol, Oktandiole, 1 ,2-Oktandiol, 1 ,8-Oktandiol, 2-Ethyl-1 ,3-hexandiol, Octadienole, , Decadienole, Dodekandiole, 1 ,2-Dodekandiol, 1 ,12- Dodekandiol,' Dodecadienole. Weiterhin beispielhaft für die erfindungsgemäß zu verwendenden Ester aus Fettsäuren und Polyolen seine als bevorzugte Polyole erwähnt Sorbit, Inosit, Mannit, Tetrite, Pentite, Hexite, Threit, Erythrit, Ädonit, Arabit, Xylit, Dulcit, Erythrose, Threose, Arabinose, Ribose, Xylose, Lyxose, Glucose, Galactose, Mannose, Allose, Altrose, Gulose, Idose,' Talose, Fructose, Sorbose, Psicose, Tegatose, Desoxyribose, Glucosamin, Galaktosamin, Rhamnose, Digitoxose, Thioglucose, Saccharose, Lactose, Trehalose, Maltose, Cellobiose, Melibiose, Gestiobiose, Rutinose, Raffinose sowie Cellotriose. Weiterhin sei auf die einschlägige Fachliteratur wie beispielsweise Beyer- Walter, Lehrbuch der organischen Chemie, S. Hirzel Verlag Stuttgart, 19. Auflage, Abschnitt III, Seiten 393. und folgende verwiesen. Selbstverständlich umfaßt die erfindungsgemäße Lehre alle isomeren Formen, wie eis - trans - Isomere, Diastereomere, Epimere, Anomere und chirale Isomere. - Fettsäurepartialglyceride, das sind Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische. Bei der Verwendung technischer Produkte können herstellungsbedingt noch geringe Mengen Triglyceride enthalten sein. Die Partialglyceride folgen vorzugsweise der Formel (B1-I), CH2O(CH2CH2O)mR1 I CHO(CH2CH2O)nR2 (B1-I) I CH2O(CH2CH2O)qR3 in der R1, R2 und R3 unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff oder für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bisFatty acid esters of carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugars, in particular fatty acid esters of monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, which may also be in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses as well as in the form of methyl ethers and as phosphate esters. Preferred among these are the fatty acid esters of Monosaccharides with 3 to 8 carbon atoms, such as, for example, triosen, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, which may also be in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and also in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester. For the purposes of the present invention, very particularly preferred polyols which are used in the form of their esters with fatty acids are polyols having 2 to 12 carbon atoms in the molecular structure. These polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or unsaturated. The hydroxyl groups are very particularly preferably adjacent at the end or separated from one another by the rest of the chain. Examples of these polyols are: Glykoi, neopentyl glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, pentanediols, for example 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,4-cyclo -Hexanediol, 1, 2-cyclo-hexanediol, heptanediols, 1, 2-heptanediol, 1, 7- Heptanediol, octanediols, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, octadienols,, decadienols, dodecanediols, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 12-dodecanediol, 'dodecadienols. Another example of the esters of fatty acids and polyols to be used according to the invention is its sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose , Lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose, old rose, gulose, idose, 'talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose Melibiosis, gestiobiose, rutinose, raffinose and cellotriose. Furthermore, reference is made to the relevant specialist literature, such as Beyer-Walter, Textbook of Organic Chemistry, S. Hirzel Verlag Stuttgart, 19th Edition, Section III, pages 393. and the following. Of course, the teaching according to the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as eis-trans isomers, diastereomers, epimers, anomers and chiral isomers. - Fatty acid partial glycerides are monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. When using technical products, small quantities of triglycerides may still be present due to the manufacturing process. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (B1-I), CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) mR 1 I CHO (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 2 (B1-I) I CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) q R 3 in which R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another are hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to
22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18, Kohlenstoffatomen stehen mit der Maßgabe, daß mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für einen Acylrest und mindestens eine dieser22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms are provided that at least one of these groups is an acyl radical and at least one of these
Gruppen für Wasserstoff steht. Die Summe (m+n+q) steht für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise für 0 oder 5 bis 25. Bevorzugt steht R1 für einen Acylrest und R2 und R3 für Wasserstoff und die Summe (m+n+q) ist 0. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2- Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroseiinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt.Groups represents hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) stands for 0 or numbers of 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. R 1 is preferably an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides Base of caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroseic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, and erachic acid, as well as mixtures thereof, gadic acid, arachic acid, and galenic acid. Oleic acid monoglycerides are preferably used.
Die Einsatzmenge der natürlichen und synthetischen kosmetischen Olkörper (B- 1) in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln beträgt üblicherweise 0,01 - 30 Gew.%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, bevorzugt 0,05 - 20 Gew.-%, und insbesondere 0,05 - 10 Gew.-%.The amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (B-1) used in the agents used according to the invention is usually 0.01-30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.05-20% by weight, and in particular 0. 05-10% by weight.
Geeignete nicht-ionische Tenside (B2) sind erfindungsgemäß ausgewählt aus den:Suitable nonionic surfactants (B2) are selected according to the invention from the:
- Sorbitanfettsäureestern,- sorbitan fatty acid esters,
- Zuckerfettsäureestern,- sugar fatty acid esters,
- Pyrrolidonen der Formel (B2-I),Pyrrolidones of the formula (B2-I),
wobei R = Alkyl, Alkenyl, Hydroxyalkyl, Hydroxyalkenyl, Aminoalkyl, Aminoalkenyl, vorzugsweise mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, bevorzugt 8 bis 22 C- Atome, ist. where R = alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyalkenyl, aminoalkyl, aminoalkenyl, preferably having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
Das Pyrrolidon gemäß der allgemeinen Formel (B2-I) kann auch in Form seines Salzes, vorzugsweise quartemisiert mit Dimethylsulfat (DMS) oder als Alkylhalogenid, verwendet werden. Besonders geeignete Pyrrolidone können ausgewählt werden aus der Gruppe umfassend:The pyrrolidone according to the general formula (B2-I) can also be used in the form of its salt, preferably quaternized with dimethyl sulfate (DMS) or as an alkyl halide. Particularly suitable pyrrolidones can be selected from the group comprising:
N-Laurylpyrrolidon, wie Surfadone® LP-300 (ISP) und/oder N-N-lauryl, such as Surfadone LP-300 ® (ISP) and / or N-
Caprylylpyrrolidon, wie Surfadone® LP-100 (ISP) und/oder N-Methylpyrrolidon wie Flouwet® EA 093 (Clariant).Caprylylpyrrolidon as Surfadone LP-100 ® (ISP) and / or N-methylpyrrolidone as Flouwet ® EA 093 (Clariant).
Das Pyrrolidonderivat (B2-I) wird in einer Menge von 0,01 bis 30 Gew.% bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 20 Gew.% und ganz besonders bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 10 Gew.% verwendet. Fettsäurealkanolamiden und Fettaminen, . • . Zuckertensiden vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß Formel (B2-I),The pyrrolidone derivative (B2-I) is used in an amount of 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 20% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 % Used. Fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,. •. Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to formula (B2-I),
R4O-[G]p (B2-I) in der R4 für einen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. Sie können nach den einschlägigen Verfahren der präparativen organischen Chemie erhalten werden. Stellvertretend für das umfangreiche Schrifttum sei hier auf die Übersichtsarbeit von Biermann et al. in Starch/Stärke 45, 281 (1993), B. Salka in Cosm.Toil. 108, 89 (1993) sowie J. Kahre et al. in SÖFW-Journal Heft 8, 598 (1995) verwiesen. Die Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside können sich von Aldosen bzw. Ketosen mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise von Glucose, ableiten. Die bevorzugten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside sind somit Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglucoside. Die Indexzahl p in der allgemeinen Formel (B2-I) gibt den Oligomerisierungsgrad (DP), d. h. die Verteilung von Mono- und Oli- goglykosiden an und steht für eine Zahl zwischen 1 und 10. Während p im einzelnen Molekül stets ganzzahlig sein muß und hier vor allem die Werte p = 1 bis 6 annehmen kann, ist der Wert p für ein bestimmtes Alkyloligoglykosid eine analytisch ermittelte rechnerische Größe, die meistens eine gebrochene Zahl darstellt. Vorzugsweise werden Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside mit einem mittleren Oligomerisierungsgrad p von 1 ,1 bis 3,0 eingesetzt. Aus anwendungstechnischer Sicht sind solche Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside bevorzugt, deren Oligomerisierungsgrad kleiner als 1 ,7 ist und insbesondere zwischen 1 ,2 und 1 ,4 liegt. Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R4 kann sich von primären Alkoholen mit 4 bis 11,, vorzugsweise 8 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Butanol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol und Undecylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, wie sie beispielsweise bei der Hydrierung von technischen Fettsäuremethylestern oder im Verlauf der Hydrierung von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese erhalten werden. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloli- goglucoside der Kettenlänge C8-Cι0 (DP = 1 bis 3), die als Vorlauf bei der destillativen Auftrennung von technischem Cs-Ciβ-Kokosfettalkohol anfallen und mit einem Anteil von weniger als 6 Gew.-% Cι2-Alkohol verunreinigt sein können sowie Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis technischer Cg/n-Oxoalkohole (DP = 1 bis 3). Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R15 kann sich ferner auch von primären Alkoholen mit 12 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol, Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Gemische, die wie oben beschrieben erhalten werden können. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis von gehärtetem Cι2/ι4-Kokosalkohol mit einem DP von 1 bis 3. Zuckertensiden vom Typ der Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide, ein nichtionisches Tensid der Formel (B2-II),R 4 O- [G] p (B2-I) in which R 4 represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p represents numbers from 1 to 10. They can be obtained according to the relevant procedures in preparative organic chemistry. Representative of the extensive literature here is the review by Biermann et al. in Starch /force 45, 281 (1993), B. Salka in Cosm.Toil. 108, 89 (1993) and J. Kahre et al. in SÖFW-Journal issue 8, 598 (1995). The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (B2-I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be an integer and here can assume the values p = 1 to 6 in particular, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, which is usually a fraction Represents number. Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are preferred whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length C 8 -Cι 0 (DP = 1 to 3) are preferred, which are obtained as a preliminary step in the separation of technical Cs-Ciβ coconut fatty alcohol by distillation and with a proportion of less than 6% by weight Cι 2 - Alcohol can be contaminated as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical Cg / n-oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated Cι 2/4 ι coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3. Sugar surfactants of the Preferred are fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (B2-II),
R5CO-NR6-[Z] (B2-II) in der R5CO für einen aliphatischen Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R6 für Wasserstoff, einen Alkyl- oder Hydroxyalkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und [Z] für einen linearen oder verzweigten Polyhydroxyalkylrest mit 3 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen und 3 bis 10 Hydroxylgruppen steht. Bei den Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamiden handelt es sich um bekannte Stoffe, die üblicherweise durch reduktive Aminie- rung eines reduzierenden Zuckers mit Ammoniak, einem Alkylamin oder einem Alkanolamin und nachfolgende Acylierung' mit einer Fettsäure, einem Fettsäurealkylester oder einem Fettsäurechlorid erhalten werden können.R 5 CO-NR 6 - [Z] (B2-II) in the R 5 CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 6 for hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical with 1 to 4 Carbon atoms and [Z] represents a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups. The fatty acid-N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can be normally obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation 'with a fatty acid, a fatty acid or a fatty acid chloride obtained.
Hinsichtlich der Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung sei auf die US-Patentschriften US 1 ,985,424, US 2,016,962 und US 2,703,798 sowie die Internationale Patentanmeldung WO 92/06984 verwiesen. Eine Übersicht zu diesem Thema von H.Kelkenberg findet sich in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988). Vorzugsweise leiten sich die Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide von reduzierenden Zuckern mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere von der Glucose ab. Die bevorzugten Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide stellen daher Fett- säure-N-alkylglucamide dar, wie sie durch die Formel (B2-III) wiedergegeben werden:With regard to the processes for their production, reference is made to US Pat. Nos. 1, 985,424, US 2,016,962 and US 2,703,798 as well as international patent application WO 92/06984. An overview of this topic by H. Kelkenberg can be found in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988). The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (B2-III):
R7CO-NR8-CH2-(CH-OH)4-CH2OH (B2-III)R 7 CO-NR 8 -CH 2 - (CH-OH) 4 -CH 2 OH (B2-III)
Vorzugsweise werden als Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide Glucamide der Formel (B2-III) eingesetzt, in der R8 für Wasserstoff oder eine Alkylgruppe steht und R7CO für den Acylrest der Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure oder Erucasäure bzw. derer technischer Mischungen steht. Besonders bevorzugt sind Fett- säure-N-alkylglucamide der Formel (B2-III), die durch reduktive Aminierung von Glucose mit Methylamin und anschließende Acylierung mit Laurinsäure oder C12/14-Kokosfettsäure bzw. einem entsprechenden Derivat erhalten werden. Weiterhin können sich die Polyhydroxyalkylamide auch von Maltose und Palatinose ableiten. Weiterhin sind . ganz besonders bevorzugte nichtionische Tenside die Zuckertenside. Diese können in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,01 - 30 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten sein. Mengen von 0,05 - 20 Gew.-% sind bevorzugt, und ganz besonders bevorzugt sind Mengen von 0,05 - 10 Gew.%.The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are glucamides of the formula (B2-III) in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (B2-III) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative are particularly preferred. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose. Furthermore are. the particularly preferred nonionic surfactants were sugar surfactants. These can be contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01-30% by weight, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.05-20% by weight are preferred, and quantities of 0.05-10% by weight are very particularly preferred.
Erfindungsgemäß ist es auch möglich, die erfindungsgemäßen Stoffe (B1) und (B2) als Gemisch von mindestens zwei der Stoffe zu verwenden. Die Erfindung umfasst dabei sowohl Mischungen von mindestens zwei Stoffen innerhalb einer Gruppe als auch von Mischungen von mindestens zwei Stoffen aus jeder der beiden Gruppen. Das Mischungsverhältnis der Komponenten (B1) und (B2), wobei gegebenenfalls unter (B2) auch die Summe der Einzelkomponenten aus (B2) zu verstehen ist, kann von 1 :99 bis 99:1 betragen. Als erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Kombinationen haben sich die Mischungen aus einem pflanzlichen Öl oder einem Esteröl oder einem Fettsäureester oder einem Fettsäurepartialglycerid mit einem Pyrrolidon oder einem Zuckertensid oder einem Pyrrolidon und einem Zuckertensid erwiesen. Eine ganz besonders bevorzugte binäre Mischung dieser beiden Stoffgruppen ist das Stoffgemisch aus einem Fettsäurepartialglycerid aus der Gruppe (B1) mit den Pyrrolidonen aus der Gruppe (B2), wenngleich jede beliebige Kombination dieser beiden Gruppen erfindungsgemäß möglich ist. Eine ganz besonders bevorzugte ternäre Kombination aus diesen beiden Stoffgruppen ist die Mischung aus einem Fettsäurepartialglycerid aus der Gruppe (B1) mit einem Pyrrolidon und einem Zuckertensid aus der Gruppe (B2).According to the invention, it is also possible to use the substances (B1) and (B2) according to the invention as a mixture of at least two of the substances. The invention encompasses both mixtures of at least two substances within a group and mixtures of at least two substances from each of the two groups. The mixing ratio of components (B1) and (B2), where (B2) may also be understood to mean the sum of the individual components from (B2), can be from 1:99 to 99: 1. The mixtures of a vegetable oil or an ester oil or a fatty acid ester or a fatty acid partial glyceride with a pyrrolidone or a sugar surfactant or a pyrrolidone and a sugar surfactant have proven to be preferred combinations according to the invention. A very particularly preferred binary mixture of these two substance groups is the substance mixture of a fatty acid partial glyceride from group (B1) with the pyrrolidones from group (B2), although any combination of these two groups is possible according to the invention. A very particularly preferred ternary combination of these two groups of substances is the mixture of a fatty acid partial glyceride from group (B1) with a pyrrolidone and a sugar surfactant from group (B2).
Der kationaktive Verbindung (C) ist eine Substanz, die auf Grund von kationischen oder kationisierbaren Gruppen, insbesondere primären, sekundären, tertiären oder quatemären Amingruppen eine Substantivität zu menschlichem Haar aufweist. Geeignete kationaktive Stoffe sind ausgewählt aus kationischen Tensiden, betainischen, amphoteren Tensiden, kationischen Polymeren, Silikonverbindungen mit kationischen oder kationisierbaren Gruppen, kationisch derivatisierten Proteinen oder Proteinhydrolysaten und Betain,The cationic compound (C) is a substance which, due to cationic or cationizable groups, in particular primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, has a substantivity to human hair. Suitable cationic substances are selected from cationic surfactants, betaine, amphoteric surfactants, cationic Polymers, silicone compounds with cationic or cationizable groups, cationically derivatized proteins or protein hydrolyzates and betaine,
Die erfindungsgemäßen kationischen Polymere (C1) können sowohl festigende und/oder filmbildende und/oder antistatische und/oder avivierende Polymere als auch Polymere mit konditionierenden und/oder verdickenden Eigenschaften sein. Es kann in einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform auch vorteilhaft sein, mindestens ein avivierendes und/oder mindestens ein filmbildendes, festigendes Polymer und/oder mindestens ein verdickendes Polymer zu formulieren. Bei den geeigneten kationaktiven Polymeren handelt es sich jedoch vorzugsweise um haarfestigende und/oder um haarkonditionierende Polymere. Unter Polymeren sind sowohl natürliche als auch synthetische Polymere, welche kationisch oder amphoter geladen sein können, zu verstehen.The cationic polymers (C1) according to the invention can be both setting and / or film-forming and / or antistatic and / or finishing polymers as well as polymers with conditioning and / or thickening properties. In a preferred embodiment, it can also be advantageous to formulate at least one finishing and / or at least one film-forming, setting polymer and / or at least one thickening polymer. The suitable cationic polymers are, however, preferably hair-setting and / or hair-conditioning polymers. Polymers are understood to mean both natural and synthetic polymers which can be cationically or amphoterically charged.
Bevorzugt sind solche Polymere, die eine ausreichende Alkohollöslichkeit besitzen, um in dem erfindungsgemäßen Mittel in vollständig gelöster Form vorzuliegen. Die kationische Ladungsdichte beträgt vorzugsweise 1 bis 7 meq/g.Preferred polymers are those which have sufficient alcohol solubility to be present in completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention. The cationic charge density is preferably 1 to 7 meq / g.
Unter kationischen Polymeren (C1 ) sind Polymere zu verstehen, welche in der Haupt- und/oder Seitenkette eine Gruppe aufweisen, welche "temporär" oder "permanent" kationisch sein kann. Als "permanent kationisch" werden erfindungsgemäß solche Polymere bezeichnet, die unabhängig vom pH-Wert des Mittels eine kationische Gruppe aufweisen. Dies sind in der Regel Polymere, die ein quartäres Stickstoffatom, beispielsweise in Form einer Ammoniumgruppe, enthalten. Bevorzugte kationische Gruppen sind quartäre Ammoniumgruppen. Insbesondere solche Polymere, bei denen die quartäre Ammoniumgruppe über eine C1-4-Kohlenwasserstoffgruppe an eine aus Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure oder deren Derivaten aufgebaute Polymerhauptkette gebunden sind, haben sich als besonders geeignet erwiesen. Die kationischen Polymere können Homo- oder Copolymere sein, wobei die qύaternären Stickstoffgruppen entweder in der Polymerkette oder vorzugsweise als Substituent an einem oder mehreren der Monomeren enthalten sind. Die Ammoniumgruppen enthaltenden Monomere können mit nicht kationischen Monomeren copolymerisiert sein. Geeignete katioηische Monomere sind ungesättigte, radikalisch polymerisierbare Verbindungen, welche mindestens eine kationische Gruppe tragen, insbesondere ammoniumsubstituierte Vinylmonomere wie zum Beispiel Trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium,Cationic polymers (C1) are understood to mean polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which can be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic. According to the invention, polymers which have a cationic group irrespective of the pH of the composition are referred to as "permanently cationic". These are usually polymers that contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C1-4 hydrocarbon group to a main polymer chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives have proven to be particularly suitable. The cationic polymers can be homo- or copolymers, with the qύaternärischen nitrogen groups either contained in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkyl methacryloxyalkylammonium,
Trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, Dialkyldiallylammonium und quaternäre Vinylammoniummonomere mit cyclischen, kationische Stickstoffe enthaltenden Gruppen wie Pyridinium, Imidazolium oder quaternäre Pyrrolidone, z.B. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, oder Alyklvinylpyrrolidon Salze. Die Alkylgruppen dieser Monomere sind vorzugsweise niedere Alkylgruppen wie zum Beispiel C1- bis C7-Alkylgruppen, besonders bevorzugt C1- bis C3-Alkylgruppen.Trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers with cyclic groups containing cationic nitrogen such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinyl pyridinium, or alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
Die Ammoniumgruppen enthaltenden Monomere können mit nicht kationischen Monomeren copolymerisiert sein. Geeignete Comonomere sind beispielsweise Acrylamid, Methacrylamid; Alkyl- und Dialkylacrylamid, Alkyl- und Dialkylmethacrylamid, Alkylacrylat, Alkylmethacrylat, Vinylcaprolacton, Vinylcaprolactam, Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylester, z.B. Vinylacetat, Vinylalkohol, Propylenglykol oder Ethylenglykol, wobei die Alkylgruppen dieser Monomere vorzugsweise C1- bis C7-Alkylgruppen, besonders bevorzugt C1- bis C3- Alkylgruppen sind.The monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl esters, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably being C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
Geeignete Polymere mit quaternären Amingruppen sind beispielsweise die im CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium beschriebenen Polymere wie Methylvinylimidazoliumchlorid/Vinylpyrrolidon Copolymer (Polyquatemium-16) oder quatemisiertes Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat Copolymer (Polyquaternium- 11) sowie quaternäre Silikonpolymere bzw. -oligomere wie beispielsweise Silikonpolymere mit quaternären Endgruppen (Quaternium-80). Von den kationischen Polymeren, die in dem erfindungsgemäßen Mittel enthalten sein können, ist zum BeispielSuitable polymers with quaternary amine groups are, for example, the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (polyquaternium-11) and, for example, quaternary polymeric polymers such as silicone polymeric polymers with quaternary end groups (Quaternium-80). For example, of the cationic polymers that can be contained in the agent according to the invention
Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylatmethosulfat Copolymer, das unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Gafquat® 755 N und Gafquat® 734 von der Firma Gaf Co., USA vertrieben wird und von denen das Gafquat® 734 besonders bevorzugt ist, geeignet. Weitere kationische Polymere sind beispielsweise das von der Firma BASF, Deutschland unter dem Händelsnamen Luviquat® HM 550 vertriebene Copolymer aus Polyvinylpyrrplidon und Imidazoliminmethochlorid, das von der Firma Öalgon/USA unter dem Handelsnamen Merquat® Plus 3300 vertriebene Terpolymer aus Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid, Natriumacrylat und Acrylamid und das von der Firma ISP unter dem Handelsnamen Gafquat® HS 100 vertriebene Vinylpyrrolidon/Methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid Copolymer.Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat ® 734 Co., USA is sold by Gaf and of which the Gafquat ® 734 is particularly preferred suitable. Other cationic polymers are, for example, the copolymer of polyvinylpyrrplidone and imidazolimine methochloride sold by the company BASF, Germany under the trade name Luviquat ® HM 550, the terpolymer made from dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and the product sold by the company Öalgon / USA under the trade name Merquat ® Plus 3300 by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ® HS 100 displaced vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
Homopolymere der allgemeinen Formel (C1-I), R1 ' '.Homopolymers of the general formula (C1-I), R 1 '' .
-[CH2-C-]n X- (C1-I)- [CH 2 -C-] n X- (C1-I)
CO-O-(CH2)m-N+R2R3R4 in der R1= -H oder -CH3 ist, R2, R3 und R4 unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus C1-4-Alkyl-, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, m = 1 , 2, 3 oder 4, n eine natürliche Zahl und X" ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (C1-I) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugte kationische Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt: R1 steht für eine Methylgruppe R2, R3 und R4 stehen für Methylgruppen m hat den Wert 2.CO-O- (CH 2 ) mN + R 2 R 3 R 4 in which R 1 = -H or -CH 3 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C1-4-alkyl-, - Alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X "is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion, and copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (C1-I) and Nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers, and those polymers are preferred according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R 1 stands for a methyl group R 2 , R 3 and R 4 stand for methyl groups m has the value 2.
Als physiologisch verträgliches Gegenionen X" kommen beispielsweise Halogenidionen, Sulfationen, Phosphationen, Methosulfationen sowie organische Ionen wie Lactat-, Citrat-, Tartrat- und Acetationen in Betracht. Bevorzugt sind Halogenidionen, insbesondere Chlorid.Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X " are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Halide ions, in particular chloride, are preferred.
Ein besonders geeignetes Homopolymer ist das, gewünschtenfalls vernetzte, Poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumchlorid) mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquatemium-37. Die Vernetzung kann gewünschtenfalls mit Hilfe mehrfach olefinisch ungesättigter Verbindungen, beispielsweise Divinylbenzol, Tetraallyloxyethan, Methylenbisacrylamid, Diallylether, Polyallylpolyglycerylether, oder Allylethem von Zuckern oder Zuckerderivaten wie Erythritol, Pentaerythritol, Arabitol, Mannitol, Sorbitol, Sucrose oder Glucose • erfolgen. Methylenbisacrylamid ist ein bevorzugtes Vernetzungsagens.A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquatemium-37. The crosslinking can, if desired, with the help of olefinically polyunsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, Polyallylpolyglycerylether or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose • done. Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
Das Homopolymer wird bevorzugt in Form einer nichtwäßrigen Polymerdispersion, die einen Polymeranteil nicht unter 30 Gew.-% aufweisen sollte, eingesetzt. Solche Polymerdispersionen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Salcare® SC 95 (ca. 50 % Polymeranteil, weitere Komponenten: Mineralöl (INCI- Bezeichnung: Mineral Oil) und Tridecyl-polyoxypropylen-polyoxyethylen-ether (INCI-Bezeichnung: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) und Salcare® SC 96 (ca. 50 % Polymeranteil, weitere Komponenten: Mischung von Diestem des Propylengly- kols mit einer Mischung aus Capryl- und Caprinsäure (INCI-Bezeichnung: Propy- lene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate) und Tridecyl-polyoxypropylen-polyoxyethylen- ether (INCI-Bezeichnung: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) im Handel erhältlich.The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mixture of diester of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene - ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.
Copolymere mit Monomereinheiten gemäß Formel (C1-I) enthalten als nichtionogene Monomereinheiten bevorzugt Acrylamid, Methacrylamid, Acrylsäure-Cι- -alkylester und Methacrylsäure-C1-4-alkylester. Unter diesen nichtionogenen Monomeren ist das Acrylamid besonders bevorzugt. Auch diese Copolymere können, wie im Falle der. Homopolymere oben beschrieben, vernetzt sein. Ein erfindungsgemäß bevorzugtes Copolymer ist das vernetzte Acrylamid- Methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumchlorid-Copolymer. Solche Copolymere, bei denen die Monomere in einem Gewichtsverhältnis von etwa 20:80 vorliegen, sind im Handel als ca. 50 %ige nichtwäßrige Polymerdispersion unter der Bezeichnung Salcare® SC 92 erhältlich.Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (C1-I) as the non-ionic monomer, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid and methacrylic acid Cι- -alkyl-C 1-4 -alkyl. Among these nonionic monomers, acrylamide is particularly preferred. This too Copolymers, as in the case of. Homopolymers described above can be crosslinked. A preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ® SC 92nd
Geeignete kationaktive Silikonverbindungen weisen vorzugsweise entweder mindestens eine Arήinogruppe oder mindestens eine Ammoniumgruppe auf. Geeignete Silikonpolymere mit Aminogruppen sind unter der INCI- Bezeichnung Amodimethicone bekannt. Hierbei handelt es sich um Polydimethylsiloxane mit Aminoalkylgruppen. Die Aminoalkylgruppen können Seiten- oder endständig sein. Das N-haltige Silikon als erfindungsgemäßes kationisches Polymer (C1) kann vorzugsweise ausgewählt werden aus der Gruppe umfassend Siloxanpolymere mit wenigstens einer Aminogruppe, Siloxanpolymere mit wenigstens einer endständigen Aminogruppe, Amodimethicon, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone, und/oder Aminoethylaminopropylsiloxan-Dimethylsiloxan-Copolymer. Geeignete Silikonpolymere mit zwei endständigen quaternären Ammoniumgruppen sind unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Quaternium-80 bekannt. Hierbei handelt es sich um Dimethylsiloxane mit zwei endständigen Aminoalkylgruppen.Suitable cationic silicone compounds preferably have either at least one arήino group or at least one ammonium group. Suitable silicone polymers with amino groups are known under the INCI name Amodimethicone. These are polydimethylsiloxanes with aminoalkyl groups. The aminoalkyl groups can be side or terminal. The N-containing silicone as the cationic polymer (C1) according to the invention can preferably be selected from the group comprising siloxane polymers with at least one amino group, siloxane polymers with at least one terminal amino group, amodimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and / or aminoethylaminopropylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer. Suitable silicone polymers with two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known under the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes with two terminal aminoalkyl groups.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist die Verwendung eines Aminosiloxans entsprechend der nachstehenden allgemeinen Formel (C1-I)l,According to the invention, preference is given to using an aminosiloxane corresponding to the general formula (C1-I) 1 below,
wobei R = OH oder CH3 ; X = Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 4 C-Atomen, vorzugsweise Propyl oder Isopropyl und A, B und C = Copolymereinheiten, die taktische und/oder ataktische Polymerblöcke ausbilden können, sind. where R = OH or CH 3; X = alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably propyl or isopropyl and A, B and C = copolymer units, which can form tactical and / or atactic polymer blocks.
Erfindungsgemäß am meisten bevorzugt ist Amodimethicon, Amodimethicon haltige Emulsionen oder Fluide. Emulsionen, die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt eingesetzt werden können sind Dow Corning® 949, hierbei handelt es sich um eine kationische Emulsion enthaltend Amodimethicon, Cetrimoniumchlorid und Trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 939, hierbei handelt es sich um eine Emulsion enthaltend Amodimethicon, Cetrimoniumchlorid und Trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 929, hierbei handelt es sich um eine kationische Emulsion enthaltend Amodimethicon, Talktrimoniumchlorid und Nonoxynol-10; Dow Corning® 7224 oder 1401 , basierend auf Trimethylsilylamodimethicon, Octoxynol-40, Isolaureth- 6 und Glycol; Dow Corning® 2-8194 Mikroemulsion (26%ig) auf Basis eines aminfunktionalisierten Siliconpolymers; Dow Corning® 2-8177 Mikroemulsion (12%ig) auf Basis eines aminfunktionalisierten Siliconpolymers; Dow Corning® 2- 8566 Amino Fluid auf Basis eines aminfunktionalisierten Polydimethylsiloxans; erhältlich bei der Firma Dow Corning.Most preferred according to the invention is amodimethicone, amodimethicone-containing emulsions or fluids. Emulsions which can preferably be used according to the invention are Dow Corning® 949, this is a cationic emulsion containing amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 939, this is an emulsion containing amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 929, this is a cationic emulsion containing amodimethicone, talc trimonium chloride and nonoxynol-10; Dow Corning® 7224 or 1401, based on trimethylsilylamodimethicone, octoxynol-40, isolaureth-6 and glycol; Dow Corning® 2-8194 microemulsion (26%) based on an amine-functionalized silicone polymer; Dow Corning® 2-8177 microemulsion (12%) based on an amine-functionalized silicone polymer; Dow Corning® 2-8566 Amino Fluid based on an amine functionalized polydimethylsiloxane; available from Dow Corning.
Das Molekulargewicht der Aminosilikone liegt vorzugsweise zwischen 500 und 100.000. Der Aminanteil (meq/g) liegt vorzugsweise im Bereich von 0,05 bis 2,3, besonders bevorzugt von 01 , bis 0,5.The molecular weight of the aminosilicones is preferably between 500 and 100,000. The amine content (meq / g) is preferably in the range from 0.05 to 2.3, particularly preferably from 01 to 0.5.
Das Silikon als erfindungsgemäßes kationisches Polymer (C1) wird in einer Menge von 0,01 bis 20 Gew.% bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 15 Gew.% und ganz besonders bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 10 Gew.% verwendet.The silicone as the cationic polymer (C1) according to the invention is used in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.05 up to 10% by weight.
Geeignete kationische Polymere, die von natürlichen Polymeren abgeleitet sind, sind kationische Derivate von Polysacchariden, beispielsweise kationische Derivate von Cellulose, Stärke oder Guar. Geeignet sind weiterhin Chitosan und Chitosanderivate. Kationische Polysaccharide haben die allgemeine Formel (C1- III) G-O-B-N+RaRbRc X" • G ist ein Anhydroglucoserest, beispielsweise Stärke- oder Celluloseanhydroglucose; • B ist eine , divalente Verbindungsgruppe, beispielsweise Alkylen, Oxyalkylen, Polyoxyalkylen oder Hydroxyalkylen; • Ra, Rb und Rc sind unabhängig voneinander Alkyl, Aryl, Alkylaryl, Arylalkyl, Alkoxyalkyl oder Alkoxyaryl mit jeweils bis zu 18 C-Atomen, wobei die Gesamtzahl der C-Atome in Ra, R und Rc vorzugsweise maximal 20 ist; • X" ist ein übliches Gegenanion und ist vorzugsweise Chlorid.Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Chitosan and Chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (C1-III) GOB-N + R a R b R c X " • G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose; • B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or Hydroxyalkylene • R a , R b and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 C atoms, the total number of C atoms in R a , R and R c preferably is a maximum of 20; • X " is a common counter anion and is preferably chloride.
Eine kationische Cellulose wird unter der Bezeichnung Polymer JR® von Amerchol vertrieben und hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquatemium-10. Eine weitere kationische Cellulose trägt die INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-24 und wird unter dem Handelsnamen Polymer LM-200 von Amerchol vertrieben. Ein geeignetes kationisches Guarderivat wird unter der Handelsbezeichnung Jaguar® vertrieben und hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Guar Hydröxypropyltrimonium Chloride.A cationic cellulose is sold under the name of Polymer JR ® from Amerchol and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees. Another cationic cellulose has the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is marketed by Amerchol under the trade name Polymer LM-200. A suitable cationic guar derivative is sold under the trade name Jaguar ® and has the INCI name Guar Hydröxypropyltrimonium Chloride.
Besonders bevorzugte kationaktive Stoffe sind Chitosan, Chitosansalze und Chitosan-Derivate. Bei den erfindungsgemäß einzusetzenden Chitosanen handelt es sich um vollständig oder partiell deacetylierte Chitine. Zur Herstellung von Chitosan geht man vorzugsweise von dem in den Schalenresten von Krustentieren enthaltenem Chitin aus, welches als billiger und natürlicher Rohstoff in großen Mengen zur Verfügung steht. Das Molekulargewicht des Chitosans kann über ein breites Spektrum verteilt sein, beispielsweise von 20.000 bis ca. 5 Millionen g/mol. Geeignet ist beispielsweise ein niedermolekulares Chitosan mit einem Molekulargewicht von 30.000 bis 70.000 g/mol. Vorzugsweise liegt das Molekulargewicht jedoch über 100.000 g/mol, besonders bevorzugt von 200. 000 bis 700.000 g/mol. Der Deacetylierungsgrad beträgt vorzugsweise 10 bis 99%, besonders bevorzugt 60 bis 99%. Ein geeignetes Chitosan wird beispielsweise von der Firma Kyowa Oil& Fat, Japan, unter dem Handelsnamen Flonac® vertrieben. Es hat ein Molekulargewicht von 300.000 bis 700.000 g/mol und ist zu 70. bis 80% entacetyliert. Ein bevorzugtes Chitosansalz ist Chitosoniumpyrrolidoncarboxylat, welches beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Kytamer® PC von der Firma Amerchol, USA, vertrieben wird. Das enthaltene Chitosan hat ein Molekulargewicht von ca. 200.000 bis 300.000 g/mol und ist zu 70 bis 85% entacetyliert. Als Chitosanderivate kommen quaternierte, alkylierte oder hydroxyalkylierte Derivate, beispielsweise Hydroxyethyl- oderParticularly preferred cationic substances are chitosan, chitosan salts and chitosan derivatives. The chitosans to be used according to the invention are completely or partially deacetylated chitins. The production of chitosan is preferably based on the chitin contained in the shell remains of crustaceans, which is available in large quantities as a cheap and natural raw material. The molecular weight of the chitosan can be distributed over a broad spectrum, for example from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol. A low molecular weight chitosan with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol is suitable, for example. However, the molecular weight is preferably above 100,000 g / mol, particularly preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol. The degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, particularly preferably 60 to 99%. A suitable chitosan is sold for example by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan, under the trade name Flonac ®. It has a molecular weight of 300,000 to 700,000 g / mol and is 70 to 80% deacetylated. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA. The chitosan contained has a molecular weight of approx. 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and is 70 to 85% deacetylated. Quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl or, come as chitosan derivatives
Hydroxybutylchitosan in Betracht.Hydroxybutylchitosan into consideration.
Die Chitosane oder Chitosanderivate liegen vorzugsweise in neutralisierter oder partiell neutralisierter Form vor. Der Neutralisationsgrad für das Chitosan oder das Chitosanderivat liegt vorzugsweise bei mindestens 50%, besonders bevorzugt zwischen 70 und 100%, bezogen auf die Anzahl der freien Basengruppen. Als Neutralisationsmittel können prinzipiell alle kosmetisch verträglichen anorganischen oder organischen Säuren verwendet werden wie beispielsweise Ameisensäure, Weinsäure, Äpfelsäure, Milchsäure, Zitronensäure, Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure, Salzsäure u.a., von denen die Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure besonders bevorzugt ist.The chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form. The degree of neutralization for the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least 50%, particularly preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups. In principle, all cosmetically compatible inorganic or organic acids can be used as neutralizing agents, for example formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid and others, of which pyrrolidone carboxylic acid is particularly preferred.
Weitere bevorzugte kationische Polymere sind beispielsweise - quatemisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat® und Polymer JR® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat® H 100, Celquat® L 200 und Polymer JR®400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate, - kationische Alkylpolyglycoside gemäß der DE-PS 44 13 686, - kationisierter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat® 50, - kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia®Guar und Jaguar® vertriebenen Produkte, Polysiloxane mit quaternären Gruppen, wie beispielsweise die im Handel erhältlichen Produkte Q2-7224 (Hersteller: Dow Corning; ein stabilisiertes Trimethylsilylämodimethicon), Dow Corning®. 929 Emulsion (enthaltend ein hydroxyl-amino-modifiziertes Silicon, das auch, als Amodimethicone bezeichnet wird), SM-2059 (Hersteller: General' Electric), SLM-55067 (Hersteller: Wacker) sowie Abil®-Quat 3270 und 3272 (Hersteller: Th. Goldschmidt), di- quätemäre Polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium-80),Other preferred cationic polymers are, for example, - quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially. The compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, - cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, - cationic guar Derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia ® Guar and Jaguar ® , Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylemodimethicone), Dow Corning® . 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General 'Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer : Th. Goldschmidt), di-quaternary polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium-80),
- polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Mer- quat®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) irή Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere,- Polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The products commercially available under the names Merquat ® 100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
- Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quatemierten Derivaten des Dial- kylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie' beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte . , Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat®734 und Gafquat®755 im Handel erhältlich,- Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylamino alkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as' quaternized with diethyl sulfate, for example. , Vinyl pyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are commercially available under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755,
- Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, as are offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
- quatemierter Polyvinylalkohol,- quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
- sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 und Polyquaternium 27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.- And the known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.
Gleichfalls als kationische Polymere eingesetzt werden können die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium-24 (Handelsprodukt z. B. Quatrisoft® LM 200), bekannten Polymere. Ebenfalls erfindungsgemäß verwendbar sind die Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons, wie sie als Handelsprodukte Copolymer 845 (Hersteller: ISP), Gafquat®ASCP 1011 , Gafquat®HS 110, Luviquat®8155 und Luviquat® MS 370 erhältlich sind. Weitere erfindungsgemäße kationische Polymere sind die sogenannten "temporär kationischen" Polymere. Diese Polymere enthalten üblicherweise eine Aminogruppe, die bei bestimmten pH-Werten als quartäre Ammoniumgruppe und somit kationisch vorliegt. Bevorzugt sind beispielsweise Chitosan und dessen Derivate, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Hydagen® CMF, Hydagen® HCMF, Kytamer® PC und Chitolam® NB/101 im Handel frei verfügbar sind.Can be used as cationic polymers (. B. commercial product, Quatrisoft ® LM 200) under the designations Polyquaternium-24, known polymers. Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as 845 (manufactured by ISP) as commercial products copolymer Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS 110, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370.. Further cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which is present as a quaternary ammonium group at certain pH values and is therefore cationic. Preferably, for example, are chitosan and its derivatives, such as 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names Hydagen CMF ®, Hydagen HCMF ®, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam® NB /.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kationische Polymere sind kationische Cellulose- Derivate und Chitosan und dessen Derivate, insbesondere die Handelsprodukte Polymer®JR 400, Hydagen® HCMF und Kytamer® PC, kationische Guar-Derivate, kationische Honig-Derivate, insbesondere das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat® 50, kationische Alkylpolyglycodside gemäß der DE-PS 44 13 686 und Polymere vom Typ Polyquatemium-37.According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ® JR 400, Hydagen ® HCMF and Kytamer ® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquatemium-37.
Weiterhin sind kationisierte Proteinhydrolysate (C2) zu den kationaktiven Substanzen (C) zu zählen, wobei das zugrunde liegende Proteinhydrolysat vom Tier, beispielsweise aus Collagen, Milch oder Keratin, von der Pflanze, beispielsweise aus Weizen, Mais, Reis, Kartoffeln, Soja oder Mandeln, von marinen Lebensformen, beispielsweise aus Fischcollagen oder Algen, oder biotechnologisch gewonnenen Proteinhydrolysaten, stammen kann. Die den erfindungsgemäßen kationischen Derivaten zugrunde liegenden Proteinhydrolysate können aus den entsprechenden Proteinen durch eine chemische, insbesondere alkalische oder saure Hydrolyse, durch eine enzymatische Hydrolyse und/oder einer Kombination aus beiden Hydrolysearten gewonnen werden. Die Hydrolyse von Proteinen ergibt in der Regel ein Proteinhydrolysat mit einer Molekulargewichtsverteilung von etwa 100 Dalton bis hin zu mehreren tausend Dalton. Bevorzugt sind solche kationischen Proteinhydrolysate, deren zugrunde liegender Proteinanteil ein Molekulargewicht von 100 bis zu 250.000 Dalton, bevorzugt 250 bis 5000 Dalton aufweist. Weiterhin sind unter kationischen Proteinhydrolysaten quaternierte Aminosäuren und deren Gemische zu verstehen. Die Quaternisierung der Proteinhydrolysate oder der Aminosäuren wird häufig mittels quarternären Ammoniumsateen wie beispielsweise N,N-Dimethyl-N-(n-Alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)- ammoniumhalogeniden durchgeführt. Vorteilhafterweise enthalten die kationisch derivatisierten Proteinhydrolysate eine oder zwei lange C8- bis C22- Alkylketten und entsprechend zwei oder eine kurze C1- bis C4-Alkylketten. Verbindungen, die eine lange Alkylkette enthalten, sind bevorzugt. Weiterhin können die kationischen Proteinhydrolysate auch noch weiter derivatisiert sein. Als typische Beispiele für die erfindungsgemäßen kationischen Proteinhydrolysate und - derivate seien die unter den INCI - Bezeichnungen im "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, N.W., Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) genannten und im Handel erhältlichen Produkte genannt: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCI, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed . Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed, Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, SteardimoniumFurthermore, cationized protein hydrolyzates (C2) are to be counted among the cationic substances (C), the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds , from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates. The protein hydrolysates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of approximately 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preferred cationic protein hydrolyzates are those whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 250,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Cationic protein hydrolyzates also include quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or the amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammoniumates such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. The cationically derivatized protein hydrolyzates advantageously contain one or two long C8 to C22 alkyl chains and correspondingly two or one short C1 to C4 alkyl chains. Compounds containing a long alkyl chain are preferred. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the inventive cationic protein hydrolysates and - derivatives are under the INCI - names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 , Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, Cocodimopnium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hair keratin, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCI, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Cas a, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydroxysiloxysiloxysiloxydehydroxyl Silicon / Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydroxysiloxydehydroxy Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / siloxysilicates, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed. Casein, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed, soy protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzedyl hydroxypropyl hydrolyzedyl hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed, hydroxylated Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium
Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quatemium- 79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.
Ganz besonders bevorzugt sind die kationischen Proteinhydrolysate und - derivate auf pflanzlicher Basis.The cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants are very particularly preferred.
Weiterhin können als Polymere amphotere Polymere (C3) verwendet werden. Unter dem Begriff amphotere Polymere werden sowohl solche Polymere, die im Molekül sowohl freie Aminogruppen als auch freie -COOH- oder SO3H-Gruppen enthalten und zur Ausbildung innerer Salze befähigt sind, als auch zwitterionische Polymere, die im Molekül quartäre Ammoniumgruppen und -COO" - oder -SO3 '-Gruppen enthalten, und solche Polymere zusammengefaßt, die - COOH- oder SO3H-Gruppen und quartäre Ammoniumgruppen enthalten.Amphoteric polymers (C3) can also be used as polymers. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, and also zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO in the molecule " - or -SO 3 ' groups, and summarized such polymers that contain - COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
Ein Beispiel für ein erfindungsgemäß einsetzbares Amphopolymer ist das unter der Bezeichnung Amphomer® erhältliche Acrylharz, das ein Copolymeres aus tert.-Butylaminoethylmethacrylat, N-(1 ,1 ,3,3-Tetramethylbutyl)acrylamid sowie zwei oder mehr Monomeren aus der Gruppe Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure und deren einfachen Estern darstellt. Weitere erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare amphotere Polymere sind die in der britischen Offenlegungsschrift 2 104 091 , der europäischen Offenlegungsschrift 47 714, der europäischen Offenlegungsschrift. 217 274, der europäischenAn example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and its simple esters. Further amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are those in British Offenlegungsschrift 2 104 091, European Offenlegungsschrift 47 714 and European Offenlegungsschrift. 217 274, the European
Offenlegungsschrift 283 817 und der deutschen Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369 genannten Verbindungen. Weiterhin geeignete zwitterionische Polymere sind Methacroylethylbetain/Methacrylat-Copolymere, die unter der Bezeichnung Amersette® (AMERCHOL) im Handel erhältlich sind.Laid-Open Specification 283 817 and German Laid-Open Specification 28 17 369. Further suitable zwitterionic polymers are methacroylethylbetaine / methacrylate copolymers, which are available under the name Amersette® ® (AMERCHOL).
Bevorzugt eingesetzte amphotere Polymere sind solche Polymerisate, die sich im wesentlichen zusammensetzen ausAmphoteric polymers which are preferably used are those polymers which essentially consist of one another
(a) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (C3-I), R1-CH=CR2-CO-Z-(CnH2n)-N(+)R3R4R5 A^, (C3-I) in der R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R3, R4 und R5 unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist, und (b) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (C3-II), R6-CH=CR7-COOH (C3-II) in denen R6 und R7 unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.(a) Monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (C3-I), R 1 -CH = CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2 n) -N (+) R 3 R 4 R 5 A ^, ( C3-I) in which R 1 and R 2 independently of one another stand for hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another for alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z an NH group or an oxygen atom, n a whole Number from 2 to 5 and A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (C3-II), R 6 -CH = CR 7 -COOH (C3-II) in which R 6 and R 7 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
Diese Verbindungen können sowohl direkt als auch in Salzform, die durch Neutralisation der Polymerisate, beispielsweise mit einem Alkalihydroxid, erhalten wird, erfindungsgemäß eingesetzt werden. Bezüglich der Einzelheiten der Herstellung dieser Polymerisate wird ausdrücklich auf den Inhalt der deutschen Offenlegungsschrift 39 29 973 Bezug genommen. Ganz besonders bevorzugt sind solche Polymerisate, bei denen Monomere des Typs (a) eingesetzt werden,« bei denen R3, R4 und R5 Methylgruppen sind, Z eine NH-Gruppe und Aw ein Halogenid-, Methoxysulfat- oder Ethoxysulfat-Ion ist; Acrylamidopropyl-trimethyl- ammoniumchlorid ist ein besonders bevorzugtes Monomeres (a). Als Monomeres (b) für die genannten Polymerisate wird bevorzugt Acrylsäure verwendet.According to the invention, these compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralizing the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide. With regard to the details of the preparation of these polymers, reference is expressly made to the content of German laid-open specification 39 29 973. Very particularly preferred are those polymers in which monomers of type (a) are used, "in which R 3, R 4 and R 5 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A w a Is halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the polymers mentioned.
Weiterhin zählen zwitterionische Tenside (C4) zu den kationaktiven Stoffen (C). Als zwitterionische Tenside (C4) werden solche, oberflächenaktiven Verbindungen bezeichnet, die im Molekül mindestens eine quartäre Ammoniumgruppe und mindestens eine -COO("- - oder -SOs^ -Gruppe tragen. Besonders geeignete zwitterionische Tenside sind die sogenannten Betaine wie die N-Alkyl- N,N-dimethylammonium-glycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosalkyl-dimethylammo- niumglycinat, N-Acyl-aminopropyl-N.N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosacylaminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, und 2-Alkyl-3-car- boxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe sowie das Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxy- methylglycinat. Beispiele für Betaine umfassen C8- bis C18-Alkylbetaine wie Cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetain, Lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetain, Lauryldimethylalphacarboxyethylbetain, Cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetain, Oleyldimethylgammacarboxypropylbetain und Lauryl-bis(2- hydroxypropyl)alphacarboxyethylbetain; C8- bis C18- Sulfobetaine wie Cocodimethylsulfopropylbetain, Stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetain, Lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetain, Laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)sulfopropylbetain; die Carboxylderivate des Imidazols, die C8- bis C18-Alkyldimethylammoniumacetate, die C8- bis C18- Alkyldimethylcarbonylmethylammoniumsalze sowie die C8- bis C18- Fettsäurealkylamidobetaine wie beispielsweise das Kokosfettsäureamidopropylbetain, welches beispielsweise in Form einer 30%igen wäßrigen Lösung unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tego® Betain L7 von der Firma Goldschmidt AG vertrieben wird und das N-Kokosfettsäureamidoethyl-N- [2- (carboxymethoxy)ethyl]- glycerin (CTFA-Name: Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate), welches zum Beispiel in Form einer 50%igen wäßrigen Lösung unter der Handelsbezeichnung Miranol® C2M von der Firma Miranol Chemical Co. Inc. vertrieben wird. Ein bevorzugtes zwitterionisches Tensid ist das unter der INCI- Bezeichnung Cocamidopropyl Betaine bekannte Fettsäureamid-Derivat.In addition, zwitterionic surfactants (C4) are among the cationic substances (C). Zwitterionic surfactants (C4) are those surface active compounds which, and at least one -COO ( "at least one quaternary ammonium group in the molecule - -. ^ -SOs or group carry Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl - N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-NN-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-car-boxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline each have 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. C8 to C18 su lfobetaines such as cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, laurylbis- (2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropylbetaine; the carboxyl derivatives of imidazole, the C8 to C18 alkyldimethylammonium acetates, the C8 to C18 alkyldimethylcarbonylmethylammonium salts and the C8 to C18 fatty acid alkylamido betaines such as, for example, the coconut fatty acid amidopropylbetaine, which is used, for example, in the form of a 30% commercial beta solution in Tego® solution under the name of the aqueous solution T7® is sold by Goldschmidt AG and the N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N- [2- (carboxymethoxy) ethyl] glycerol (CTFA name: Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate), which, for example, in the form of a 50% aqueous solution under the trade name Miranol® C2M from Miranol Chemical Co. Inc. is distributed. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
Weiterhin sind zu den kationaktiven Substanzen (C) ampholytische Tenside (C5) zu zählen. Unter ampholytischen Tensiden (C5) werden solche oberflächenaktiven Verbindungen verstanden, die außer einer Cs - C24 - Alkyl- oder -Acylgruppe im Molekül mindestens eine freie Aminogruppe und mindestens eine -COOH- oder -SO3H-Gruppe enthalten und zur Ausbildung innerer Salze befähigt sind. Beispiele für geeignete ampholytische Tenside sind N-Alkylglycine, N-Alkylpropionsäuren, N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren, N-Alkyliminodipropionsäuren, N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-Alkyltaurine, N-Alkylsarcosine, 2- Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkylaminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 24 C- Atomen in der Alkylgruppe. Besonders bevorzugte ampholytische Tenside sind das N-Kokosalkylaminopropionat, das Kokosacylaminoethylaminopropionat und das C-|2 - Cιβ - Acylsarcosin.The cation-active substances (C) also include ampholytic surfactants (C5). Ampholytic surfactants (C5) are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cs-C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in the molecule and for the formation of internal salts are qualified. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkylsarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid each with about 8 to 24 C. - atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C- | 2 - Cιβ - acylsarcosine.
Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbar sind ebenfalls kationische Tenside (C6). Typische Beispiele für kationische Tenside sind insbesondere Tetraalkylammoniumverbindungen Amidoamine oder aber Esterquats. Bevorzugte quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen sind Ammoniumhalogenide, insbesondere Chloride und Bromide, wie Alkyltrimethylammoniumchloride, Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride und Trialkylmethylammoniumchloride, z.B. Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Stearyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Distea- ryldimethylammoniumchlorid, Lauryldimethylammoniumchlorid, Lauryl- dimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid, Tricetylmethylammoniumchlorid, Hydroxyethyl Hydroxycetyl Dimmonium Chloride sowie die unter den INCI-Bezeichnungen Quatemium-27 und Quaternium-83 bekannten Imidazolium-Verbindungen. Die langen Alkylketten der oben genannten Tenside weisen bevorzugt 10 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatome auf. Bei Esterquats handelt es sich um bekannte Stoffe, die sowohl mindestens eine Esterfunktion als auch mindestens eine quartäre Ammoniumgruppe als Strukturelement enthalten.Cationic surfactants (C6) can also be used according to the invention. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are, in particular, tetraalkylammonium compounds, amidoamines or esterquats. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, ryldimethylammoniumchlorid Distea-, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryl dimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride, tricetyl methyl ammonium chloride, hydroxyethyl Hydroxycetyl Dimmonium chlorides, as well as those available under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms. Ester quats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
Hierbei handelt es sich beispielsweise um quaternierte Fettsäuretriethanolaminestersalze der Formel (C6-I),These are, for example, quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts of the formula (C6-I),
R 16R 16
[R14CO-(OCH2CH2)m1OCH2CH2- N+-CH2CH2O-(CH2CH2θ)m2R15] Y (C6-I) I CH2CH2O(CH2CH2θ)m3R17 [R 14 CO- (OCH 2 CH 2 ) m1 OCH 2 CH2- N + -CH 2 CH 2 O- (CH 2 CH2θ) m 2R 15 ] Y (C6-I) I CH 2 CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 θ) m3 R 17
in der R14CO für einen Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R15 und R16 unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff oder R14C0, R15 für einen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen oder eine (CH2CH2O)m H-Gruppe, m1 , m2 und m3 in Summe für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 12, m4 für Zahlen von 1 bis 12 und Y für Ha- logenid, Alkylsulfat oder Alkylphosphat steht. Typische Beispiele für Esterquats, die im Sinne der Erfindung Verwendung finden können, sind Produkte auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Stearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Ara- chinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, wie sie beispielsweise bei der Druckspaltung natürlicher Fette und Öle anfallen. Vorzugsweise werden technische C- β-Kokosfettsäuren und insbesondere teilgehärtete Ci6/18-Talg- bzw. Palmfettsäuren sowie elaidinsäurereiche C16/18- Fettsäureschnitte eingesetzt. Zur Herstellung der quaternierten Ester können die Fettsäuren und das Triethanolamin im molaren Verhältnis von 1 ,1 : 1 bis 3 : 1 eingesetzt werden. Im Hinblick auf die anwendungstechnischen Eigenschaften der Esterquats hat sich ein Einsatzverhältnis von 1 ,2 : 1 bis 2,2 : 1 , vorzugsweise 1 ,5 : 1 bis 1 ,9 : 1 als besonders vorteilhaft erwiesen. Die bevorzugten Esterquats stellen technische Mischungen von Mono-, Di- und Triestern mit einem durchschnittlichen Veresterungsgrad von 1 ,5 bis 1 ,9 dar und leiten sich von technischer Ciβnβ- Talg- bzw. Palmfettsäure (lodzahl 0 bis 40) ab. Aus anwendungstechnischer Sicht haben sich quaternierte Fettsäuretriet- hanolaminestersalze der Formel (C6-I) als besonders vorteilhaft erwiesen, in der R14CO für einen Acylrest mit 16 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, R15 für R15CO, R16 für Wasserstoff, R17 für eine Methylgruppe, m1 , m2 und m3 für 0 und Y für Methylsulfat steht.in which R 14 CO stands for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 15 and R 16 independently of one another for hydrogen or R 14 CO, R 15 for an alkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (CH 2 CH 2 O) m H- Group, m1, m2 and m3 in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12, m4 for numbers from 1 to 12 and Y for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate. Typical examples of ester quats which can be used in the context of the invention are products based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, arachic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures , as they occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils. Technical C-β coconut fatty acids and in particular partially hardened Ci 6/18 tallow or palm fatty acids as well as C 16/18 fatty acid cuts rich in elaidic acid are preferably used. The fatty acids and the triethanolamine can be used in a molar ratio of 1.1: 1 to 3: 1 to produce the quaternized esters. With regard to the application properties of the esterquats, an application ratio of 1.2: 1 to 2.2: 1, preferably 1.5: 1 to 1.9: 1 has proven to be particularly advantageous. The preferred esterquats are technical mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters with an average degree of esterification of 1.5 to 1.9 and are derived from technical Ciβnβ- tallow or palm fatty acid (iodine number 0 to 40). From an application point of view, quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts of the formula (C6-I) have proven to be particularly advantageous in which R 14 CO for an acyl radical having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, R 15 for R 15 CO, R 16 for hydrogen, R 17 for is a methyl group, m1, m2 and m3 for 0 and Y for methyl sulfate.
Neben den quatemierten Fettsäuretriethanolaminestersalzen kommen als Esterquats ferner auch quaternierte Estersalze von Fettsäuren mit Diethanolalkylaminen der Formel (C6-II) in Betracht,In addition to the quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines of the formula (C6-II) are also suitable as esterquats.
ι20ι20
[R 8CO-(OCH2CH2)m5θCH2CH2-N+-CH2CH2θ-(CH2CH2O)m 6R19] Y" (C6-II) I R21 in der R 8CO für einen Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R19 für Wasserstoff oder R 8CO, R20 und R21 unabhängig voneinander für Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, m5 und m6 in Summe für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 12 und Y wieder für Halogenid, Alkylsulfat oder Alkylphosphat steht.[R 8 CO- (OCH 2 CH 2 ) m5θCH 2 CH 2 -N + -CH2CH2θ- (CH 2 CH 2 O) m 6R 19 ] Y " (C6-II) IR 21 in the R 8 CO for an acyl residue with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 19 for hydrogen or R 8 CO, R 20 and R 21 independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m5 and m6 in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and Y again for halide, alkyl sulfate or Alkyl phosphate stands.
Als weitere Gruppe geeigneter Esterquats sind schließlich die quatemierten Estersalze von Fettsäuren mit 1 ,2-Dihydroxypropyldialkylarπinen der Formel (C6- III) zu nennen, R25 O-(CH2CH2θ)m8θCR22 I IFinally, a further group of suitable ester quats are the quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylarπins of the formula (C6-III), R 25 O- (CH 2 CH2θ) m 8 θCR 22 II
[R24-N+-CH2CHCH2O-(CH2CH2O)m7R23] X" (C6-III)[R 24 -N + -CH 2 CHCH 2 O- (CH 2 CH 2 O) m7 R 23 ] X " (C6-III)
2626
in der R CO für einen Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R23 für Wasserstoff oder R22CO, R24, R25 und R26 unabhängig voneinander für Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, m7 und m8 in Summe für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 12 und X wieder für Halogenid, Alkylsulfat oder Alkylphosphat steht.in the R CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 23 for hydrogen or R 22 CO, R 24 , R 25 and R 26 independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m7 and m8 in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and X again represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
Schließlich kommen als Esterquats noch Stoffe in Frage, bei denen die Ester- durch eine Amidbindung ersetzt ist und die vorzugsweise basierend auf Diethylentriamin der Formel (C6-IV) folgen,Finally, suitable ester quats are substances in which the ester bond is replaced by an amide bond and which preferably follow the formula (C6-IV) based on diethylenetriamine,
R29 I [R27CO-NH-CH2CH2- N+-CH2CH2-NH-R28] Y- (C6-IV) I R30 in der R27CO für einen Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoff atomen, R28 für Wasserstoff oder R27CO, R29 und R30 unabhängig voneinander für Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und Y wieder für Halogenid, Alkylsulfat oder Alkylphosphat steht. Derartige Amidesterquats sind beispielsweise unter der Marke Incroquat® (Croda) im Markt erhältlich. R 29 I [R 27 CO-NH-CH 2 CH 2 - N + -CH 2 CH 2 -NH-R 28 ] Y- (C6-IV) I R 30 in the R 27 CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 Carbon atoms, R 28 for hydrogen or R 27 CO, R 29 and R 30 independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and Y again for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate. Such amide ester quats are available on the market, for example, under the Incroquat® (Croda) brand.
Bevorzugte Esterquats sind quaternierte Estersalze von Fettsäuren mit Trietha- nolamin, quaternierte Estersalze von Fettsäuren mit Diethanolalkylaminen und quatemierten Estersalzen von Fettsäuren mit 1 ,2-Dihydroxypropyldialkylaminen. Solche Produkte werden beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Stepantex®, Dehyquart® und Armocare® vertrieben. Die Produkte Armocare® VGH-70, ein N,N-Bis(2-Palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammoniumchlόrid, , sowie Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80 und Dehyquart® AU-35 sind Beispiele für solche Esterquats.Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are sold, for example, under the trademark Stepantex ® , Dehyquart ® and Armocare ® sold . The products Armocare ® VGH-70, an N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80 and Dehyquart ® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.
Die Alkylamidoamine werden üblicherweise durch Amidierung natürlicher oder synthetischer Fettsäuren und Fettsäureschnitte mit Dialkylarninoaminen hergestellt. Eine erfindungsgemäß besonders geeignete Verbindung aus dieser Substanzgruppe stellt das unter der Bezeichnung Tegoamid® S 18 im Handel erhältliche Stearamidopropyl-dimethylamin dar.The alkylamidoamines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylarninoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
Die kationischen Tenside (C6) sind in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,01 bis 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,05 bis 15 Gew.-% sind bevorzugt und ganz besonders bevorzugt sind Mengen von 0,05 bis 10 Gew.%.The cationic surfactants (C6) are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Quantities from 0.05 to 15% by weight are preferred, and quantities from 0.05 to 10% by weight are very particularly preferred.
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthält das erfindungsgemäße Mittel zusätzlich 0,01 bis 15 Gewichtsprozent, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 10 Gewichtsprozent mindestens eines synthetischen oder natürlichen nichtionischen filmbildenden Polymers. Bevorzugt sind insbesondere solche Polymere, die eine ausreichende Löslichkeit in Alkohol oder Wasser/Alkohol-Gemischen besitzen, um in dem erfindungsgemäßen Mittel in vollständig gelöster Form vorzuliegen.In a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention additionally contains 0.01 to 15 percent by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10 percent by weight, of at least one synthetic or natural nonionic film-forming polymer. Particularly preferred are those polymers which have sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures to be present in the agent according to the invention in completely dissolved form.
Unter filmbildenden Polymeren sind solche Polymere zu verstehen, welche beim Trocknen einen kontinuierlichen Film auf der Haut, dem Haar oder den Nägeln hinterlassen. Derartige Filmbildner können in den unterschiedlichsten kosmetischen Produkten wie beispielsweise Gesichtsmasken, Make-up, Haarfestigern, Haarsprays, Haargelen, Haarwachsen, Haarkuren, Shampoos oder Nagellacken verwendet werden. Unter filmbildenden Polymeren werden weiterhin erfindungsgemäß solche Polymere verstanden, die bei Anwendung in 0,01 bis 5%-iger wäßriger, alkoholischer oder wäßrigalkoholischer Lösung in der Lage sind, auf dem Haar einen Polymerfilm abzuscheiden.Film-forming polymers are understood to mean those polymers which, when dried, leave a continuous film on the skin, hair or nails. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products such as, for example, face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. According to the invention, film-forming polymers are furthermore understood to mean those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 5% aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are able to deposit a polymer film on the hair.
Geeignete synthetische, nichtionische filmbildende, haarfestigende Polymere sind Homo- oder Copolymere, die aus mindestens einem der folgenden Monomere aufgebaut sind: Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylcaprolactam, Vinylester wie z.B. Vinylacetat, Vinylalkohol, Acrylamid, Methacrylamid, Alkyl- und Dialkylacrylamid, Alkyl- und Dialkylmethacrylamid, Alkylacrylat, Alkylmethacrylat, Propylenglykol oder Ethylenglykol, wobei die Alkylgruppen dieser Monomere vorzugsweise C1- bis C7-Alkylgruppen, besonders bevorzugt C1- bis C3-Alkylgruppen sind. Geeignet sind z.B. Homopolymere des Vinylcaprolactams, des Vinylpyrrolidons oder des N-Vinylformamids. Weitere geeignete synthetische filmbildende, nichtionische, haarfestigende Polymere sind z.B. Copolymerisate aus Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat, Terpolymere aus Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylacetat und Vinylpropionat, Polyacrylamide, die beispielsweise unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Akypomine® P 191 von der Firma CHEM-Y, Emmerich, oder Sepigel® 305 von der Firma Seppic vertrieben werden; Polyvinylalkohole, die beispielsweise unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Elvanol® von Du Pont oder Vinol® 523/540 von der Firma Air Products vertrieben werden sowieSuitable synthetic, nonionic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as, for example, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylamide , Alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably being C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups. Homopolymers of vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone or N-vinyl formamide are suitable, for example. Further suitable synthetic film-forming, nonionic hair-fixing polymers are copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, for example, under the trade designations Akypomine ® P 191 by the company CHEM-Y, Emmerich or Sepigel ® 305 distributed by Seppic; Polyvinyl alcohols, which are sold, for example, under the trade names Elvanol ® by Du Pont or Vinol ® 523/540 by Air Products and
Polyethylenglykol/Polypropylenglykol-Copolymere, die beispielsweise, unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Ucon® der Union Carbide vertrieben werden. Besonders bevorzugt sind Polyvinylpyrrolidon und Polyvinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat Copolymere.Polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, which are sold, for example, under the trade names Ucon® by Union Carbide. Polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are particularly preferred.
Geeignete natürliche filmbildende Polymere sind z.B. Cellulosederivate, z. B. Hydroxypropylcellulose mit einem Molekulargewicht von 30.000 bis 50. 000 g/mol, welche beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Nisso Sl® von der Firma Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg, vertrieben wird. Selbstverständlich umfasst die erfindungsgemäße Lehre auch die zusätzliche Verwendung von Polymeren, welche das Haar fixieren, die sogenannten festigenden Polymere. Diese tragen zum Halt , und/oder zum Aufbau des Haarvolumens, der Haarfülle der Gesamtfrisur bei. Film bildende Polymere und Gumme sind daher generell typische Substanzen für Haarbehandlungsmittel wie Haarfestiger, Haarschäume, Haarwachse, Haarsprays. Substanzen, welche dem Haar weiterhin hydrophobe Eigenschaften verleihen, sind hierbei bevorzugt, weil sie die Tendenz des Haares Feuchtigkeit, also Wasser zu absorbieren, verringern. Dadurch wird das schlaffe Herunterhängen der Haarsträhnen vermindert und somit wird ein langanhaltender Frisurenaufbau und -erhalt gewährleistet. Als Testmethode hierfür wird häufig der sogenannte curl-retention - Test angewendet. Diese polymeren Substanzen können weiterhin erfolgreich in leave-on und rinse-off Haarkuren oder Shampoos eingearbeitet werden. Da Polymere häufig multifunktional sind, das heißt, mehrere anwendungstechnisch erwünschte Wirkungen zeigen, finden sich zahlreiche Polymere in mehreren auf die Wirkungsweise eingeteilten Gruppen, so auch im CTFA Handbuch. Wegen der Bedeutung gerade der festigenden Polymere sollen diese daher explizit in Form ihrer INCI - Namen aufgelistet werden. In dieser Liste der erfindungsgemäß ganz besonders bevorzugt zu verwendenden Polymere finden sich somit selbstverständlich auch die kationischen Polymere (C) wieder.Suitable natural film-forming polymers are, for example, cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ® by the company Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg. Of course, the teaching according to the invention also includes the additional use of polymers that fix the hair, the so-called setting polymers. These contribute to the hold and / or to the build-up of the hair volume, the fullness of the overall hairstyle. Film-forming polymers and gums are therefore generally typical substances for hair treatment agents such as hair setting agents, hair foams, hair waxes and hair sprays. Substances which further impart hydrophobic properties to the hair are preferred here because they reduce the tendency of the hair to absorb moisture, that is to say water. This reduces the sagging of the hair strands and thus ensures a long-lasting hair style build-up and maintenance. The so-called curl retention test is often used as a test method for this. These polymeric substances can continue to be successfully incorporated into leave-on and rinse-off hair treatments or shampoos. Since polymers are often multifunctional, that is to say that they have several effects which are desired from an application point of view, numerous polymers can be found in several groups which are classified according to the mode of action, including the CTFA manual. Because of the importance of the setting polymers, they should be listed explicitly in the form of their INCI names. The cationic polymers (C) can of course also be found in this list of the polymers which are particularly preferably to be used according to the invention.
Beispiele für gebräuchliche festigende Polymere sind Acrylamide/Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamides/DMAPA Acrylates/Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride/Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chlorid e/Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/t- Butylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/C1-2 Succinates/Hydroxyacrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/Lauryl Acrylate/Stearyl Acrylate/Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates/Octylacrylamide/Diphenyl Amodimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates/Stearyl Acrylate/Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer,Examples of common setting polymers are acrylamides / ammonium acrylate copolymers, acrylamides / DMAPA acrylates / methoxy PEG methacrylate copolymers, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chlorides / acrylamides copolymers, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride e / acrylates copolymers, acrylates / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylates copolymers, acrylates / acrylamides copolymers, acrylates / ammonium methacrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C1-2 Succinates / Hydroxyacrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylate / Stearyl Acrylate / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide / Diphenyl Amodimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylate / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer,
Acrylates/VA Copolymer, AcrylatesA/P Copolymer, AdipicAcrylates / VA Copolymer, AcrylatesA / P Copolymer, Adipic
Äcid/Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid/DimethylaminohydroxypropylAcid / Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dimethylaminohydroxypropyl
Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid/Epoxypropyl DiethylenetriamineDiethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Epoxypropyl Diethylenetriamine
Copolymer, Adipic Acid/Isophthalic Acid/Neopehtyl Glycol/TrimethylolpropaneCopolymer, Adipic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Neopehtyl Glycol / Trimethylolpropane
Copolymer, Allyl Stearate/VA Copolymer, AminoethylacrylateCopolymer, allyl stearate / VA copolymer, aminoethyl acrylate
Phosphate/Acrylates Copolymer, Aminoethylprppanediol-Acrylates/AcrylamidePhosphate / Acrylates Copolymer, Aminoethylprppanediol-Acrylates / Acrylamide
Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol-AMPD-Acrylates/DiacetoneacrylamideCopolymer, aminoethyl propanediol AMPD acrylates / diacetoneacrylamides
Copolymer, Ammonium VA/Acrylates Copolymer, AMPD-Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, AMPD-
Acrylates/Diacetoneacrylamide Copolymer, AMP-Acrylates/Allyl MethacrylateAcrylates / Diacetoneacrylamide copolymer, AMP-Acrylates / Allyl Methacrylate
Copolymer, AMP-Acrylates/C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates/C1-8 Alkyl AcrylamideCopolymer, AMP acrylates / C1-18 alkyl acrylates / C1-8 alkyl acrylamides
Copolymer, AMP-Acrylates/Diacetoneacrylamide Copolymer, AMP-Copolymer, AMP-Acrylates / Diacetoneacrylamide Copolymer, AMP-
Acrylates/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer, Bacillus/Rice BranAcrylates / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, Bacillus / Rice Bran
Extract Soybean Extract Ferment Filtrate, Bis-Butyloxyamodimethicone/PEG-60Extract Soybean Extract Ferment Filtrate, Bis-Butyloxyamodimethicone / PEG-60
Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate/Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, ButylCopolymer, butyl acrylate / ethylhexyl methacrylate copolymer, butyl
Acrylate/Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butylated PVP, Butyl Ester of Ethylene/MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, Calcium/Sodium PVM/MA Copolymer, Com Starch/Acrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Diethylene Glycolamine/Epichlorohydrin/Piperazine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Amodimethicone, Ethyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/PVP Crosspolymer, Isobutylene/Ethylmaleimide/Hydroxyethylmaleimide Copolymer, Isobutylene/MA Copolymer, Isobutylmethacrylate/Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, Lauryl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, MEA- Sulfite, Methacrylic Acid/Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine/Acrylates Copolymer, Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, PEG/PPG- 25/25 Dimethicone/Acrylates Copolymer, PEG-8/SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylamide, Polyacrylate-6, Polybeta-Alanine/Glutaric Acid Crosspolymer, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polyester-1 , Polyethylacrylate, Polyethylene Terephthalate, Polyrϊiethacryloyl Ethyl Betäine.'Polypentaerythrityl Terephthalate, Polyperfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, Polyquatemiurη-1 , Polyquaternium-2, Polyquatemium-4, Polyquatemium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaterhium-7, Polyquatemium-8, Polyqύatemium-9, Polyquatemium-10, Polyquaternium-11 , Polyquatemium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquatemium-16, Polyquatemium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquatemium-20, Polyquatemium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquatemium-29, Poiyquatemium-30, Polyquaternium-31 , Polyquatemium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquatemium-35, Polyquatemium-36, Polyquatemium-37, Polyquatemium-39, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquatemium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquatemium-55, Polyquaternium-56, . Polysilicone-9, Polyurethane-1 , Polyurethane-6, Polyurethane-10, Polyvinyl Acetate, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinylcaprolactam, Polyvinylformamide, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, PPG-70 Polyglyceryl-10 Ether, PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer, PPG-51/SMDI Copolymer, PPG-10 Sorbitol, PVM/MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP/VA/ltaconic Acid Copolymer, PVP/VAΛ/inyl Propionate Copolymer, Rhizobian Gum, Rosin Acrylate, Shellac, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sterculia Urens Gum, Terephthalic Acid/Isophthalic Acid/Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonate/Glycol Copolymer, Trimethylolpropane Triacrylate, Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan, VA/Crotonates Copolymer,Acrylate / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butylated PVP, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, Com Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Diethylene Glycolamine / Epichlorohydrin / Piperazine Copolymer , Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Amodimethicone, Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / PVP Crosspolymer, Isobutylene / Ethylmaleimide / Hydroxyethylmaleimide Copolymer, Isobutylene / MA Copolymer, Isobutylmethacrylate / Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, MA-Propyl Ester of PVM , Lauryl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, MEA- Sulfite, Methacrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylates Copolymer, Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, PEG / PPG- 25/25 Dimethicone / Copolymer, PEG-8 / SMDI copolymer, polyacrylamides, polyacrylates-6, polybeta- Alanine / Glutaric Acid Crosspolymer, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polyester-1, Polyethylacrylate, Polyethylene Terephthalate, Polyrϊiethacryloyl Ethyl Betäine. '' Polypentaerythrityl terephthalate, polyperfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, polyquatemiurη-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaterhium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyqύatemium-9, polyquaternium-10, poly, quaternium-10, poly Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium 29, Poiyquatemium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquatemium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquatemium-35, Polyquatemium-36, Polyquatemium-37, Polyquatemium-39, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquatemium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquatemium-55, Polyquaternium-56,. Polysilicone-9, Polyurethane-1, Polyurethane-6, Polyurethane-10, Polyvinyl Acetate, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinylcaprolactam, Polyvinylformamide, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, PPG-70 Polyglyceryl-10 Ether, PPG-12 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG-51 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG-10 Sorbitol, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / VA / ltaconic Acid Copolymer, PVP / VAΛ / inyl Propionate Copolymer, Rhizobian Gum, Rosin Acrylate, Shellac, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sterculia Urens Gum, Terephthalic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonate / Glycol Copolymer, Trimethylolpropane Triacrylates, trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, VA / crotonates copolymer,
VA/Crotonates/Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA/CrotonatesA inyl Propionate Copolymer, VA/DBM Copolymer, VAΛ inyl Butyl Benzoate/Crotonates Copolymer, Vinylamine/Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam/VP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP/Acrylates/Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer,VA / Crotonates / Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / CrotonatesA inyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / DBM Copolymer, VAΛ inyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, Vinylamine / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer,
VP/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer, VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, VP/Hexadecene Copolymer, VP/VA Copolymer, VPΛ/inyl Caprolactam/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, Yeast Palmitate. Wenn die erfiηdungsgemäße Zusammensetzung in Form einer Emulsion formuliert werden soll, können emulsionsstabilisierende Polymere vorteilhaft mitverwendet werden. Hierunter sind Polymere zu, verstehen, welche den Aufbau und die Stabilisierung von Emulsionen (O/W und W/O sowie multiple Emulsionen) wesentlich unterstützen. Tenside und Emulgatoren sind selbstverständlich die wesentlichen Bestandteile, jedoch tragen die stabilisierenden Polymere durch eine positive Beeinflussung der kontinuierlichen oder der dispersen Phase zu einer Verringerung der Koaleszenz der emulgierten Tröpfchen bei. Diese positive Beeinflussung kann auf einer elektrischen Abstoßung, einer Erhöhung der Viskosität oder einer Filmbildung auf der Tröpfchenoberfläche beruhen.VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymer, VP / hexadecene copolymer, VP / VA copolymer, VPΛ / inyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer, yeast palmitate. If the composition according to the invention is to be formulated in the form of an emulsion, emulsion-stabilizing polymers can advantageously also be used. These are understood to be polymers which substantially support the build-up and stabilization of emulsions (O / W and W / O as well as multiple emulsions). Surfactants and emulsifiers are of course the essential components, but the stabilizing polymers contribute to a reduction in the coalescence of the emulsified droplets by positively influencing the continuous or the disperse phase. This positive influence can be due to electrical repulsion, an increase in viscosity or film formation on the droplet surface.
Beispiele für derartige Polymere sind Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Acrylates/Aminoacrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium . Phosphatidyl Rapeseedate, Ammonium Polyacrylate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ammonium Shellacate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Beeswax, Bentonite, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Chitosan Lauroyl Glycinate, Cholesterol, Cholesterol/HDI/Pullulan Copolymer, ComExamples of such polymers are acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylates / aminoacrylates / C 10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / stearyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, alcaligenes polysaccharides , Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium . Phosphatidyl Rapeseedate, Ammonium Polyacrylate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ammonium Shellacate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Beeswax, Bentonite, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Chitosan Lauroyl Glycinate, Cholesterol, Cholesterol / HDI / Pullulan Copolymer, Com
Starch/Acrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-3, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-8, C12-14 Sec-Pareth- 9, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-12, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-15, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-20, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-30, C12-.14 Sec-Pareth-40, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-50, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Gellan Gum, Hydrolyzed Beeswax, Hydrolyzed, Candelilla Wax, Hydrolyzed Camauba Wax, Hydrolyzed Collagen PG-Propyl ' Dimethiconol, Hydrolyzed Sunflower Seed Wax, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Ethylc'ellulose, Hydroxyethyl Isostearyloxy Isopropanolamine, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, . Hydroxypropyl Guär, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Isopropyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, Lanolin, Lanolin Alcohol, Magnesium Alginate, Maltodextrin, Methoxy PEG-17/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer,. Methoxy PEG-22/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methylcellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Microcrystalline Wax, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Octadecene/MA Copolymer, Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ozokerite, Pectin, PEG-350, PEG-400, PEG-500, PEG-12 Camauba, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG- 22/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-45/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-6 Hydrogenated Palmamide, PEG-100/IPDI Copolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG- 7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M, PEG-90M, PEG-115M, PEG-160M, PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 23/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-8/3 Laurate, PEG/PPG-10/3 Oleyl Ether Dimethicone, Polyacrylic Acid, Polyethylene, Polyethylene/Isopropyl Maleate/MA Copolyol, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate/IPDI Copolymer, Polypropylene Terephthalate, Polysilicone-16, Polyvinyl Acetate, Potassium Alginate, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Dextrin Octenylsuccinate, Potassium Polyacrylate, Potassium Undecylenoyl Alginate, Potassium Undecylenoyl Carrageenan, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Com Protein, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, PPG-3 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-4 C12-14 See- Pareth-5, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-9, PPG-2 Tocophereth-5, . PPG-5 Tocophereth-2, PPG-10 Tocophereth-30, PPG-20 Tocophereth-50, PVM/MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP/Decene Copolymer, PVP Montmorillonite, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fiber, Saccharated Lime, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer,, Sodium AcrylatesΛ inyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate/Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfate, Sodium C4-12 Olefin/Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfate, Sodium Dextrin Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium Polyacryloyidimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polynaphthalenesulfonate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium/TEA- Undecylenoyl Alginate, Sodium/TEA-Undecylenoyl Carrageenan, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearylvinyl Ether/MA Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Styrene/MA Copolymer, Sucrose Polypalmate, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Wax, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, TEA-Alginate, TEA-Dextrin Octenylsuccinate, Undecylenoyl Inulin, Undecylenoyl Xanthan Gum, Welan Gum, Xanthan Gum, Zinc Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-3, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-8, C12-14 Sec-Pareth - 9, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-12, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-15, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-20, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-30, C12-.14 Sec-Pareth-40, C12- 14 Sec-Pareth-50, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Gellan Gum, Hydrolyzed Beeswax, Hydrolyzed, Candelilla Wuba, Hydrolyzedoly, Hydrolyzedama, Hydrolyzedama PG-Propyl 'Dimethiconol, Hydrolyzed Sunflower Seed Wax, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Ethylc'ellulose, Hydroxyethyl Isostearyloxy Isopropanolamine, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin,. Hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, isopropyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer, lanolin, lanolin alcohol, magnesium alginate, maltodextrin, methoxy PEG-17 / dodecyl glycol copolymer ,. Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methylcellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Microcrystalline Wax, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Octadecene / MA Copolymer, Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ozokerite, Poc PEG-350, PEG-400, PEG-500, PEG-12 Camauba, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-6 Hydrogenated Palmamide, PEG-100 / IPDI Copolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M, PEG-90M, PEG-115M, PEG-160M, PEG / PPG-20/23 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-23/6 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-8/3 Laurate, PEG / PPG-10/3 Oleyl Ether Dimethicone, Polyacrylic Acid, Polyethylene, Polyethylene / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolyol, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate / IPDI Copolymer, Polypropylene Terephthalate, Polysilicone-16, Polyvinyl Acetate, Potassium Alginate, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Dextrin Octenylsu ccinate, Potassium Polyacrylate, Potassium Undecylenoyl Alginate, Potassium Undecylenoyl Carrageenan, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Com Protein, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, PPG-3 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-4 C12-14 - Pareth-5, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-9, PPG-2 Tocophereth-5,. PPG-5 Tocophereth-2, PPG-10 Tocophereth-30, PPG-20 Tocophereth-50, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / Decene Copolymer, PVP Montmorillonite, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fiber, Saccharated Lime, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer ,, Sodium AcrylatesΛ inyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfate, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfate, Sodium Dextrin Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium Polyacryloyidimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polynaphthalenesulfonate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium / TEA-Undecylenoyloyloylate-Aloylate-Alginate-Aloyl-Alginate-Aloyl-Alginate-Sodium-Alocanoyl-Alginate-Sodium-Alginate-Sodium-Aloyl-Alginate-Sodium-Alginate-Sodium-Aloylate Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearylvinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Styrene / MA Copolymer, Sucrose Pol ypalmate, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Wax, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, TEA-Alginate, TEA-Dextrin Octenylsuccinate, Undecylenoyl Inulin, Undecylenoyl Xanthan Gum, Welan Gum, Xanthan Gum, Zinc Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.
Zur Formulierung der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung in Form eines Geles, Wachses oder einer Creme können vorteilhaft Polymere zur gezielten Einstellung der Viskosität verwendet werden. Polymere können die Viskosität von wäßrigen und nicht-wäßrigen Phasen in kosmetischen Zubereitungen erhöhen. In wäßrigen Phasen beruht ihre die Viskosität erhöhende Funktion auf ihrer Löslichkeit in Wasser oder ihrer hydrophilen Natur. Sie werden sowohl in tensidischen als auch in emulsionsförmigen Systemen angewendet. Im folgenden werden einige Beispiele typischer polymerer Verdicker für wäßrige Systeme aufgeführt: Acrylamides Copolymer, Acrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer,To formulate the composition according to the invention in the form of a gel, wax or cream, it is advantageous to use polymers to adjust the viscosity. Polymers can increase the viscosity of aqueous and non-aqueous phases in cosmetic preparations. In aqueous phases, their viscosity-increasing function is based on their solubility in water or their hydrophilic nature. They are used in both surfactant and emulsion systems. The following are some examples of typical polymeric thickeners for aqueous systems: acrylamide copolymer, acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer,
Acrylates/Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer; Acrylates/Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylic Acid/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Agar, Agarose, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Algin, Alginie Acid, Ammonium Acrylates/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vinyl . Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium AcryloyldimethyltaurateΛ/P Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Amylopectin, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Attapulgite, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Bentonite, Butoxy Chitosan, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Calcium Alginate, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitin, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Cholesterol/HDI/Pullulan Copolymer, Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Diglycol/CHDM/lsophthalates/SIP Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Propyl PG- Betaine, DMAPA Acrylates/Acrylic Acid/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Ethylene/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Gelatin, Gellan Gum, Glyceryl Alginate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Flour, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hectorite, Hydrated Silica, Hydrogenated Potato Starch, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Chitosan, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Chitosan, Hydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Hydroxystearamide MEA, Isobutylene/Sodium Maleate Copolymer, Lithium Magnesium Silicate, Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate, Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp), Magnesium Alginate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Magnesium Silicate, Magnesium Trisilicate, Methoxy PEG-22/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methylcellulose, Methyl Ethylcellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Natto Gum, Nonoxynyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Octadecene/MA Copolymer, Pectin, PEG-800, PEG- Crosspolymer, PEG-150/Decyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer, PEG-175 Diisostearate, PEG-190 Distearate, PEG-15 Glyceryl Tristearate, PEG-140 Glyceryl Tristearate, PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, PEG-100/IPDI Copolymer, PEG-180/Laureth-50/TMMG Copolymer, PEG-10/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-15/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M', PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG- 65M, PEG-90M, PEG-115M, PEG-160M, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate, PEG-180/Octoxynol-40/TMMG Copolymer, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PEG-4 Rapeseedamide, PEG-150/Stearyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylate-3, Polyacrylic Acid, Polycyclopentadiene, Polyether-1 , Polyethylene/Isopropyl Maleate/MA Copolyol, Polymethacrylic Acid, Polyquatemium-52, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Potassium Alginate, Potassium Aluminum Polyacrylate, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Polyacrylate, Potato Starch Modified, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Isophoryl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, Propylene Glycol Alginate, PVP/Decene Copolymer, PVP Montmorillonite, Rhizobian Gum, Ricinoleic Acid/Adipic Acid/AEEA Copolymer, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates/Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate/Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfate, Sodium .Cyclodextrin Sulfate, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sodium Isooctylene/MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium ■ Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Silicoaluminate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Stearoxy PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Sulfonate, Sodium Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Tauride Acrylates/Acrylic Acid/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Starch, Starch/Acrylates/Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether, Steareth- 100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Tapioca Starch, TEA-Alginate, TEA-Carbomer, Triticum Vulgäre (Wheat) Starch, Tfόmethamine Acrylates/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Tromethamine Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Welan Gum, Xanthan Gum, Yeast Beta-Glucan, Yeast Polysaccharides, Zea Mays (Com) Starch.Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer; Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Agar, Agarose, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Algin, Alginie Acid, Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl. Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium AcryloyldimethyltaurateΛ / P Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Amylopectin, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Attapulgite, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Bentonite, Butoxy Chitosethyl, Calcium Carboxymine, Caesalpinia Spinach Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitin, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guate, Cellulose Acetoxylate, Cellulose Acetate, Cellulose Acetate, Cellulose Acetate, Cellulose Acetate, Cellulose Acetate, Cellulose Acetate Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Cholesterol / HDI / Pullulan Copolymer, Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Diglycol / CHDM / Isophthalates / SIP Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer Propyl-2, PG Beta MA, PA Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Gelatin, Gellan Gum, Glyceryl Alginate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Flour, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hectorite, Hydrated Silica, Hydrogenated Potato Starch, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose / Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl chitosan, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl ethylenediamine Carbomer, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearoxy ether, hydroxypropyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, hydroxystearamide MEA, isobutylene / sodium maleate copolymer, lithium magnesium silicate, lithium magnesium sodium silicate, macrocystis pyrifera (kelp), magnesium algin , Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Magnesium Silicate, Magnesium Trisilicate, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methylcellulose, Methyl Ethylcellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Natto Gum, Nonoxynyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Octadecene / MA Copolymer, Pectin PEG-800, PEG-Crosspolymer, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-175 Diisostearate, PEG-190 Distearate, PEG-15 Glyceryl Tristearate, PEG-140 Glyceryl Tristearate, PEG-240 / HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth- 20 ether, PEG-100 / IPDI copolymer, PEG-180 / Laureth-50 / TMMG copolymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspol ymer, PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M ' , PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M , PEG-90M, PEG-115M, PEG-160M, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate, PEG-180 / Octoxynol-40 / TMMG Copolymer, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PEG-4 Rapeseedamide, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylate-3, Polyacrylic Acid, Polycyclopentadiene, Polyether-1, Polyethylene / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolyol, Polymethacrylic Acid, Polyquatemium-52, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Potassium Alginate, Potassium Aluminum Polyacrylate, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Polyacrylate, Potato Starch Modified, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Isophoryl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, Propylene Glycol Alginate, PVP / Decene Copolymer, PVP Montmorillonite, Rhizobian Gum, Ricinoleic Acid / Adipic Acid / AEEA Copolymer, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium carboxymethyl chitin, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan, sodium carboxymethyl starch, sodium carrageenan, sodium cellulose sulfate, sodium cyclodextrin sulfate, sodium hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium isooctylene / MA copolymer, sodium magnesium fluorosilicate, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate Starch, Sodium ■ Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Silicoaluminate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Stearoxy PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Sulfonate, Sodium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Tauride Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitubate Copolymer , Starch / Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether, Steareth- 100 / PEG-136 / HDI Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Synthetic Fluorophlogopite, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Tapioca Starch, TEA-Alginate, TEA- Carbomer, Triticum Vulgäre (Wheat) Starch, Tfόmethamine Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Tromethamine Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Welan Gum, Xanthan Gum, Yeast Beta-Glucan, Yeast Polysaccharides, Zea Mays (Com) Starch.
Eine weitere Möglichkeit zur Steigerung der Viskosität der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung ist die Verdickung der nicht-wäßrigen Phase, der Lipidphase. Hierzu werden Polymere eingesetzt, welche nicht wasserlöslich aber kompatibel mit Lipiden sind. Sie werden auch zur Gelbildung von kosmetischen Mitteln mit hohen Lipidanteilen verwendet. Im folgenden werden einige dieser Polymere aufgelistet: Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid/PPG-10 Copolymer, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Alumina Magnesium Metasilicate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Beeswax, BehenylAnother way of increasing the viscosity of the composition according to the invention is to thicken the non-aqueous phase, the lipid phase. For this purpose, polymers are used which are not water-soluble but compatible with lipids. They are also used for the gel formation of cosmetic products with a high lipid content. Some of these polymers are listed below: Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid / PPG-10 Copolymer, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Alumina Magnesium Metasilicate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Beeswax, Behenyl
Methacrylate/Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Bispolyethylene Dimethicone, Butadiene/Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Butylene/Ethylene Copolymer, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Butylene Glycol Montanate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), C29-70 Acid, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester, C20-24 Alkyl Dimethicone, C24-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, C20-24 Alkyl Methicone, C24-28 Alkyl Methicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Cellobiose Octanonanόate, Ceresin, Cerotic Acid, Cetearyl Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Chlorinated Paraffin, Cholesterol, Cholesteryl Acetate, Cholesteryl Hydroxystearate, Cholesteryl Isostearate, Cholesteryl Macadamiate, Cholesteryl Stearate, C10-40 Hydroxyalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Octyldodecanol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Phytosterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglyceride, C30-38 Olefin/Isopropyl Maleate/MA Copolymer, Copal, Com Starch Modified, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate/HEMA Copolymer, C6-14 Polyolefin, Decene/Butene Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dilinoleic Acid/Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid/SebacicMethacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Bispolyethylene Dimethicone, Butadiene / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Butylene Glycol Montanate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), C29-70 Acid, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester -24 alkyl dimethicone, C24-28 alkyl dimethicone, C1-5 alkyl galactomannan, C18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate, C20-24 alkyl Methicone, C24-28 Alkyl Methicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, C10-30 Cholesterol / Lanosterol Esters, Cellobiose Octanonanόate, Ceresin, Cerotic Acid, Cetearyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Chlorinated Paraffin, Cholesterol, Cholesteryl Acetate Hydroxystearate, Cholesteryl Isostearate, Cholesteryl Macadamiate, Cholesteryl Stearate, C10-40 Hydroxyalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Octyldodecanol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Phytosterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer, Copal, Com Starch Modified, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, C6-14 Polyolefin, Decene / Butene Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / sebacic
Acid/Piperazine/Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Phenyl Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/VinyltrimethylsiloxysilicateAcid / Piperazine / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Phenyl Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate
Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Dimethicone/Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dodecanedioic Acid/Cetearyl Alcohol/Glycol Copolymer, Ethylcellulose, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid/VA Copolymer, Ethylenediamine/Dimer Tallate Copolymer Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amide, Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer, Ethylene/Octene Copolymer, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer,Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Divinyldimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dodecanedioic Acid / Cetearyl Alcohol / Glycol Copolymer, Ethyl Cellulose, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid / VA Copolymer, Ethylenediamine Copolymer Tallow amides, ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer, ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer tallate copolymer, ethylene / octene copolymer, ethylene / propylene copolymer,
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Hydrogenated Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Japan Wax, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Styrene/Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Styrene/Methyl Styrene/Indene Copolymer, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Isobutylene/Isoprene Copolymer, Lithium Oxidized Polyethylene, Methoxy PEG-17/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG- 22/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Methylstyrene/Vinyltoluene Copolymer, Microcrystalline Wax, Montan Acid Wax, Montan Wax, Myrica Cerifera (Baγberry) Fruit Wax, Nylon-611 /Dimethicone Copolymer, Octadecene/MA Copolymer, Oleic/Linbleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ouricury Wax, . Oxidized Beeswax, Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Oxidized Polyethylene, Oxidized Polypropylene, Ozokerite, Paraffin, PEG-18 Castor Oil Dioleate, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-1Ö Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-58 Hydrogenated Castor Oil . Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Succinate, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-5 Lanolinamide, PEG-5 Oleamide Dioleate, Phthalic Anhydride/Butyl Benzoic Acid/Propylene Glycol Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride/Glycerin/Glycidyl Decanoate Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride/Trimellitic Anhydride/Glycols Copolymer, Piperylene/Butene/Pentene Copolymer, Polybutene, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polycyclopentadiene, Polydipentene, Polyethylene, Polyethylene Terephthalate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Polyricinoleate, Polyisobutene, Polyisoprene, Polypentene,Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Hydrogenated Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Japan Wax, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Styrene / Methyl Styrene / Indene Copolymer, hydroxypropyl cellulose, isobutylene / isoprene copolymer, lithium oxidized polyethylene, methoxy PEG-17 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, methylstyrene / vinyltoluene copolymer, microcrystalline wax, montan acid wax, Montan Wax, Myrica Cerifera (Baγberry) Fruit Wax, Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer, Octadecene / MA Copolymer, Oleic / Linbleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ouricury Wax,. Oxidized Beeswax, Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Oxidized Polyethylene, Oxidized Polypropylene, Ozokerite, Paraffin, PEG-18 Castor Oil Dioleate, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-1Ö Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-58 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Succinate, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-5 Lanolinamide, PEG-5 Oleamide Dioleate, Phthalic Anhydride / Butyl Benzoic Acid / Propylene Glycol Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Glycerin / Glycidyl Decanoate Copolymer / Phthalic Trimellitic Anhydrides / Glycols Copolymer, Piperylene / Butene / Pentene Copolymer, Polybutene, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polycyclopentadiene, Polydipentene, Polyethylene, Polyethylene Terephthalate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Polyricinolene, Polyyricololene, 5 Polyricinoleate Polypentene
Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy Difluoromethyl Distearamide, Polypropylene, Polysilicone-4, Polysilicone-5, Polysilicone-17, Polystyrene, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinyl Laurate, Potassium Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Potassium PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Succinate, PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, PVP/Decene Copolymer, Rhus Succedanea Fruit Wax, Rosin, Silica Dimethicone Silylate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Wax, Sodium PVM/MA/Decadiene Crosspolymer, Spent Grain Wax, Steareth-10 Allyl Ether/Acrylates Copolymer, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether, Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, StearylPolyperfluoroethoxymethoxy Difluoromethyl Distearamide, Polypropylene, Polysilicone-4, Polysilicone-5, Polysilicone-17, Polystyrene, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinyl Laurate, Potassium Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Potassium PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Succinate, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer , Rhus Succedanea Fruit Wax, Rosin, Silica Dimethicone Silylate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Wax, Sodium PVM / MA / Decadiene Crosspolymer, Spent Grain Wax, Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether . Stearoxymethicone / Dimethicone Copolymer, stearyl
Methacrylate/Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer,Methacrylate / perfluorooctylethyl methacrylate copolymer,
Styrene/Methacrylamide/Acrylates Copolymer, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Candelilla Wax, Synthetic Camauba, Synthetic Japan Wax, Synthetic Wax, TDI Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Tricontanyl PVP, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone/Trifluoropropyl Divinyldimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone/Vinyl TrifluoropropylStyrene / Methacrylamide / Acrylates Copolymer, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Candelilla Wax, Synthetic Camauba, Synthetic Japan Wax, Synthetic Wax, TDI Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Tricontanyl PVP, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Trifluorethylone Propyloriforpyloropyloriforpyloropylorodyloropylorodyloropylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodylorodyloromethane
Dimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Trimethylpentanediol/Isophthalic Acid/Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, VP/Hexadecene Copolymer.Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Trimethylpentanediol / Isophthalic Acid / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, VP / Eicosene Copolymer.
Selbstverständlich können in die erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung auch Mikropartikel, gefüllt oder ungefüllt, sowohl zur Erzielung bestimmter Effekte, wie der Freisetzung eines Wirkstoffes aus den kapseln oder der Erzielung besonderer optischer, ästethischer Effekte der Gesamtformulierung verwendet werden. In diesem Falle kann es besonders vorteilhaft sein, wenn Polymere als Suspendierhilfsmittel eingearbeitet werden. Suspendierhilfsmittel erleichtern das Verteilen von Feststoffen in Flüssigkeiten. Hierbei belegen die Polymere durch Adsorption die Oberfläche der Feststoffteilchen und verändern dadurch die Oberflächeneigenschaften der Feststoffe. Im folgenden werden Beispiele für diese Polymeren aufgeführt:Of course, microparticles, filled or unfilled, can also be used in the composition according to the invention both to achieve certain effects, such as the release of an active ingredient from the capsules or to achieve special optical, aesthetic effects of the overall formulation. In this case, it can be particularly advantageous if polymers are incorporated as suspension aids. Suspension aids facilitate the distribution of solids in liquids. Here, the polymers cover the surface of the solid particles by adsorption and thereby change the surface properties of the solids. Examples of these polymers are listed below:
Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/Methoxy PEG-15 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylates/VP Copolymer, Acrylic Acid/Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonic Acid Copolymer, Ammonium Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium VA/Acrylates Copolymer, Bentonite, Biotite, Calcium Lignosulfonate, Com Starch/Acrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate/HEMA Copolymer, Diallyloxyneohexyl Zirconium Tridecanoate, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol/Stearyl Methicone/Phenyl " Trimethicone Copolymer,, Dimethylol Urea/Phenol/Sodium Phenolsulfonate Copolymer, Disodium Methylene Dinaphthalenesulfonate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Ethylene/MA Copolymer, Ethylene/VA Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearoyl Hydroxystearate, Hectorite, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Tau rate . Copolynrier, Hydroxyethyl PEI-1000, Hydroxyethyl PEI-1500, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer, Isobutylene/MA Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, Maltodextrin, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine/Acrylates Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-17/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG- 22/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Myristoyl/PCA Chitin,. Nitrocellulose, PEG-18 Castor Oil Dioleate, PEG-150/Decyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer, . PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-150/Stearyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer, PEI-7, PEI-10, PEI-15, PEI-30, PEI-35, PEI-45, PEI-250, PEI-275, PEI-700, PEI-1000, PEI-1400, PEI-1500, PEI-1750, PEI-2500, PEI-14M, Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Meadowfoamate, Perlite, Phosphonobutanetricarboxylic Acid, Polyacrylamidomethylpropane Sulfonic Acid, Polycaprolactone, Polyethylacrylate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy PEG-2 Phosphate, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Neoheptanoate, PVM/MA Copolymer, PVP, PVPΛ/A/Itaconic Acid Copolymer, Quatemium-18 Bentonite, Quaternium-18/Benzalkonium Bentonite, Quatemium- 18 Hectorite, Quaternium-90 Bentonite, Rhizobian Gum, Silica, Silica Dimethicone Silylate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Silica Silylate, Sodium Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylic Acid/MA Copolymer, Sodium C4-12 Olefin/Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Sodium Di maltodextrin Phosphate, Sodium Glycereth-1 Polyphosphate, Sodium Isooctylene/MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicate, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearalkonium Bentonite, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Stearylvinyl Ether/MA Copolymer, Styrene/Acrylates/Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Styrene/Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Styrene/MA Copolymer, Sucrose Benzoate/Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate/Butyl Benzyl Phthalate Copolymer, Tosylamide/Epoxy Resin, Tosylamide/Formaldehyde Resin, VP/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, VP/Hexadecene Copolymer, VP/VA Copolymer.Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Methoxy PEG-15 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonic Acid Copolymer, Ammonium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, Bentonite, Biotite, Calcium Lignosulfonate , Com Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, Diallyloxyneohexyl Zirconium Tridecanoate, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol / Stearyl Methicone / Phenyl "Trimethicone Copolymer ,, Dimethylol Urea / Phenol / Sodium Phenolsulfonate Copolymer, Disodium Methylene Dinaphthalenesulfonate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearoyl Hydroxystearate, Hectorite, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Tau. Hydroxyethyl PEI-1000, Hydroxyethyl PEI-1500, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer, Isobutylene / MA Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Maltodextrin, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylates Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-17 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG - 22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Myristoyl / PCA Chitin,. Nitrocellulose, PEG-18 Castor Oil Dioleate, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer,. PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEI -7, PEI-10, PEI-15, PEI-30, PEI-35, PEI-45, PEI-250, PEI-275, PEI-700, PEI-1000, PEI-1400, PEI-1500, PEI-1750 , PEI-2500, PEI-14M, perfluorononyl octy Idodecyl Glycol Meadowfoamate, Perlite, Phosphonobutanetricarboxylic Acid, Polyacrylamidomethylpropane Sulfonic Acid, Polycaprolactone, Polyethylacrylate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy PEG-2 Phosphate, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Methyl Etherano, PVG Neo-3 / PVP-Neo-Polyetherp, PolyGlmethylP, PolyGlmethylp, PolyGlmethylp, PolyGlmethylp, PolyGlmethylP, PolyGlmethyl, PolyGlmethylp, PolyGlmethyl PV, PolyGlmethyl PV, PolyGlmethyl, PVG A / Itaconic Acid Copolymer, Quatemium-18 Bentonite, Quaternium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonite, Quatemium-18 Hectorite, Quaternium-90 Bentonite, Rhizobian Gum, Silica, Silica Dimethicone Silylate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Silica Silylate, Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl , Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylic Acid / MA Copolymer, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Sodium Di maltodextrin Phosphate, Sodium Glycereth-1 Polyphosphate, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicate, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearalkonium Bentonite, Stearalkonium Hect orite, stearyl vinyl ether / MA copolymer, styrene / acrylates / acrylonitrile copolymer, styrene / acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer, styrene / MA copolymer, sucrose benzoate / sucrose acetate isobutyrate / butyl benzyl phthalate Copolymer, Tosylamide / Epoxy Resin, Tosylamide / Formaldehyde Resin, VP / Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, VP / Hexadecene Copolymer, VP / VA Copolymer.
Zur Optimierung des fly-away Effektes der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung kann es hilfreich sein, wenn ein weiteres Polymer mit ausgeprägten antistatischen Eigenschaften zusätzlich- verwendet wird. Mit Hilfe der elektrischen Eigenschaften dieser Polymere werden die Oberflächen der mit kosmetischen Mitteln behandelten Substrate Haut, Nägel und keratinische Fasern in ihrem elektrischen Potential beeinflußt. Beispielsweise in der Haarpflege wird auf diesem Weg der als "fly-away-Effekt" bezeichnete und auf der elektrostatischen Abstoßung der Haarfasern beruhende Effekt vermindert. Aber auch auf der Hautoberfläche wird auf diesem Wege das Hautgefühl beeinflußt. Einige dieser Polymere entfalten dabei ihre optimale Wirkung in einem bestimmten pH - Bereich. Zahlreiche dieser Polymere fallen selbstverständlich gleichzeitig in die erfindungsgemäß zu verwendenden kationischen Polymere (C). Beispiele für derartige Polymere sind:In order to optimize the fly-away effect of the composition according to the invention, it can be helpful if an additional polymer with pronounced antistatic properties is additionally used. With the help of the electrical properties of these polymers, the electrical potential of the surfaces of the substrates treated with cosmetic agents skin, nails and keratin fibers is influenced. In hair care, for example, this reduces the effect known as the "fly-away effect" and is based on the electrostatic repulsion of the hair fibers. But also on the skin surface the skin feeling is influenced in this way. Some of these polymers develop their optimal effect in a certain pH range. Of course, many of these polymers simultaneously fall into the cationic polymers (C) to be used according to the invention. Examples of such polymers are:
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride/Acrylamide Copolymer,Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer,
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride/Acrylates Copolymer, AMP-Isostearoyl Gelatin/Keratin Amino Acids/Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Benzyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caesalpinia Spinosa Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Cocamidopropyldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Dimethicone Hydroxypropyl Trimoniύm Chloride, Dimethicone Propylethylenediamine Behenate, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, Ditallow Dimonium Cellulose Sulfate, Gelatin/Keratin Amino Acids/Lysine . Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride,Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, AMP-Isostearoyl Gelatin / Keratin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Benzyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caesalpinia Spinosa Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Cocamidopropyldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzedagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrodimonium Hydrolyimonagen Casein Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Dimethicone Hydroxypropyl Trimoniύm Chloride, Dimethicone Propylitone PGl Cellulose sulfates, Gelatin / Keratin Amino Acids / Lysine. Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride,
Gelatin/Lysine/Polyäcrylamide HydroxypropyltrimPnium Chloride, Beta-GlucanGelatin / Lysine / Polyäcrylamide HydroxypropyltrimPnium Chloride, Beta-Glucan
Hydroxypropyltrirnonium Chloride, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride,Hydroxypropyltronium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride,
Hydrogenated Starch . Hydrolysate , Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride,Hydrogenated starch. Hydrolysates, hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides,
Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, HydroxypropyltrimoniumHydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyltrimonium
Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey, Hydroxypropyltrimonium HydrolyzedGelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed
Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, HydroxypropyltrimoniumCasein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed collagen, hydroxypropyltrimonium
Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed JojobaHydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Jojoba
Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, HydroxypropyltrimoniumProtein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed keratin, hydroxypropyltrimonium
Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk,Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk,
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, HydroxypropyltrimoniumHydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed WheatHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat
Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate,Protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein / siloxysilicate,
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, HydroxypropyltrimoniumHydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium
Hydrolyzed Whey, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein,Hydrolyzed Whey, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein,
Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, LaurdimoniumLaurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium
Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, LaurdimoniumHydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium
Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl WheatHydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Wheat
Amino Acids, Laur/Myrist/Palmitamidobutyl Guanidine Acetate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Hydrolyzed Collagen, Oleamidopropyldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, PEG-2 Coco- Benzonium Chloride, PEG-10 Coco-Benzonium Chloride, PEG-2 Cocomonium Chloride, PEG-15 Cocomonium Chloride, PEG-5 Cocomonium Methosulfate, PEG-15 Cocomonium Methosulfate, PEG-15 Cocopolyamine, PEG-9 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-3 Dioleoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-3 Distearoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-4 Distearylethonium Ethosulfate, PEG-2 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-8 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Tallowmonium Chloride, PEG-5 Isodecyloxypropylamine, PEG-2 Lauramine, PEG-5 Oleamine, PEG-15 Oleamine, PEG-30 Oleamine, PEG-2 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-15 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-12 Palmitamine, PEG-8 Palmitoyl Methyl Diethonium Methosulfate, PEG/PPG-1/25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-2 Rapeseedamine, PEG-2 Soyamine, PEG-5 Soyamine, PEG-8 Soyamine, PEG-10 Soyamine, PEG-15 Soyamine, PEG-2 Stearamine, PEG-5 Stearamine, PEG-10 Stearamine, PEG-15 Stearamine, PEG- 50 Stearamine, PEG-2 Stearmonium Chloride, PEG-15 Stearmonium Chloride, PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Chloride, PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Lactate, PEG-10 Stearyl Benzonium Chloride, PEG-6 Stearylguanidine, PEG-5 Tallow Amide, PEG-2 Tallow Amine, PEG-7 Tallow Amine, PEG-11 Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Tallow Amine, PEG-20 Tallow Amine, PEG-25 tallow Amine, PEG-3 Tallow Aminopropylamine, PEG-10 Tallow Aminopropylamine, PEG-15 Tallow Aminopropylamine, PEG-20 Tallow Ammonium Ethosulfate, PEG-5 Tallow Benzonium Chloride, PEG-15 Tallow Polyamine, PEG-3 Tallow Propylenedimonium Dimethosulfate, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride, PG- Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride, Polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate, Polyquatemium-1 , Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquatemium-7, Polyquatemium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquatemium-10, Polyquatemium-11 , Polyquatemium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquatemium-15, Polyquatemium-16, Polyquatemium-17, Polyquatemium-18, Polyquatemium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquatemium-22, Polyquatemium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquatemium-29, Polyquatemium-30, Polyquatemium-31 , Polyquatemium-32, Polyquatemium-33, Polyquatemium-34, Polyquaternium-35', „Polyquatemium-36, Pölyquatemium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquatemiuιτw44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquatemium-48, . Polyquatemium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquatemium-54, Polyquaternium-60, Polysilicone-1 , Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, PPG-2 Cocamine, PPG-9 Diethylmonium Chloride,, PP'G-25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-40 .Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-2 Hydrogenated Tallowamine, PPG-24- PEG-21 Tallowaminopropylamine, PPG-2 Tallowamine, PPG-3 Tallow Aminopropylamine, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Propyltrimonium . Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quatemium-8, Quatemium-14, Quatemium-15, Quatemium-16; Qugtemium-18, Quatemium-18 Methosulfate, Quatemium-22, Quatemium-24, Quatemium-26, Quatemium-27, Quaternium-30, Quaternium-33, Quaternium-43, Quaternium-45, Quaternium-51 , Quaternium-52, Quatemium-53, Quaternium-56, Quaternium-60, Quaternium-61 , Quaternium-63, Quatemium-7Ö, Quatemium-71 , Quatemium-72, Quaternium-73, Quaternium-75, Quatemium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-77, ' Qüaternium-78, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quatemium-80, Quatemium-81 , Quatemium-82, Quatemium-83, Quaternium-86, Quaternium-88, Quatemium-89, Quaternium-90, Silicone Quatemium-2 Panthenol Succinate, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate, Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Wheat Germamidopropyldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Wheat Germamidopropyl Epoxypropyldimonium Chloride, Wheatgermamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate.Amino Acids, Laur / Myrist / Palmitamidobutyl Guanidine Acetate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Oleamidomethyl Propyl Methylphenol, Oleamidopropyl Collagen Coco-Benzonium Chloride, PEG-10 Coco-Benzonium Chloride, PEG-2 Cocomonium Chloride, PEG-15 Cocomonium Chloride, PEG-5 Cocomonium Methosulfate, PEG-15 Cocomonium Methosulfate, PEG-15 Cocopolyamine, PEG-9 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG- 25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-3 Dioleoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-3 Distearoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-4 Distearylethonium Ethosulfate, PEG-2 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-8 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines , PEG-50 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Tallowmonium Chloride, PEG-5 Isodecyloxypropylamine, PEG-2 Lauramine, PEG-5 Oleamine, PEG-15 Oleamine, PEG-30 Oleamine, PEG-2 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-15 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-12 Palmitamine, PEG-8 Palmitoyl Methyl Diethonium Methosulfate, PEG / PPG-1/25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-2 Rapeseedamine, PEG-2 Soyamine, PEG-5 Soyamine, PEG-8 Soyamine, PEG-10 Soyamine, PEG-15 Soyamine, PEG-2 Stearamine, PEG-5 Stearamine, PEG-10 Stearamine, PEG-15 Stearamine, PEG-50 Stearamine, PEG-2 Stearmonium Chloride, PEG-15 Stearmonium Chloride, PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Chloride, PEG -5 stearyl ammonium lactate, PEG-10 stearyl benzonium chloride, PEG-6 stearyl guanidine, PEG-5 tallow amide, PEG-2 tallow amine, PEG -7 Tallow Amine, PEG-11 Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Tallow Amine, PEG-20 Tallow Amine, PEG-25 tallow Amine, PEG-3 Tallow Aminopropylamine, PEG-10 Tallow Aminopropylamine, PEG-15 Tallow Aminopropylamine, PEG-20 Tallow Ammonium Ethosulfate, PEG-5 Tallow Benzonium Chloride, PEG-15 Tallow Polyamine, PEG-3 Tallow Propylenedimonium Dimethosulfate, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride, PG- Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride, Polymethacrylamide Methylamidopropyl 1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Pol yquatemium-29, Polyquatemium-30, Polyquatemium-31, Polyquatemium-32, Polyquatemium-33, Polyquatemium-34, Polyquaternium-35 ' , "Polyquatemium-36, Pölyquatemium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquatemiuιτw44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquatemium-48,. Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-54, Polyquaternium-60, Polysilicone-1, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, PPG-2 Cocamine, PPG-9 Diethylmonium Chloride ,, PP'G-25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-40 .Diethylmonium Chloride , PPG-2 Hydrogenated Tallowamine, PPG-24- PEG-21 Tallowaminopropylamine, PPG-2 Tallowamine, PPG-3 Tallow Aminopropylamine, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Propyltrimonium. Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quatemium-8, Quatemium-14, Quatemium-15, Quatemium-16; Qugtemium-18, Quatemium-18 Methosulfate, Quatemium-22, Quatemium-24, Quatemium-26, Quatemium-27, Quaternium-30, Quaternium-33, Quaternium-43, Quaternium-45, Quaternium-51, Quaternium-52, Quatemium -53, Quaternium-56, Quaternium-60, Quaternium-61, Quaternium-63, Quaternium-7Ö, Quaternium-71, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-73, Quaternium-75, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-77, ' Qüaternium-78, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quatemium-80, Quatemium-81 , Quatemium-82, Quatemium-83, Quaternium-86, Quaternium-88, Quatemium-89, Quaternium-90, Silicone Quatemium-2 Panthenol Succinate, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyear Jodimonium Protein Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypr opyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethylopropamidyl Chloride Ethyl Sulfamide, Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfide, Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfide, Trioxide Protein, wheat germamidopropyl Epoxypropyldimonium Chloride, Wheatgermamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate.
Schließlich kann die erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung insbesondere auf die festigende, avivierende und antistatische Wirkung gezielt beeinflusst werden, wenn anionische Polymere (G2) mit formuliert werden. Bei den anionischen Polymeren (G2) handelt es sich unter anderem um anionische Polymere, welche Carboxylat- und/oder Sulfonatgruppen aufweisen. Beispiele für anionische Monomere, aus denen derartige Polymere bestehen können, sind Acrylsäure, ethacrylsäure, Crotonsäure, Maleinsäureanhydrid und 2-Acrylamido-2- methylpropansulfonsäure. Dabei können die sauren Gruppen ganz oder teilweise als Natrium-, Kalium-, Ammonium-, Mono- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz vorliegen. Bevorzugte Monomere sind 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure und Acrylsäure.Finally, the composition according to the invention can be influenced in a targeted manner, in particular with regard to the setting, softening and antistatic action, if anionic polymers (G2) are also formulated. The anionic polymers (G2) are, inter alia, anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers can consist are acrylic acid, ethacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be present in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
Als ganz besonders wirkungsvoll haben sich anionische Polymere erwiesen, die als alleiniges oder Co-Monomer 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure enthalten, wobei die Sulfonsäuregruppe ganz oder teilweise als Natrium-, Kalium- , Ammonium-, Mono- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz vorliegen kann.Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer have proven to be very particularly effective, the sulfonic acid group being able to be present in whole or in part as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
Besonders bevorzugt ist das Homopolymer der 2-Acrylamido-2- methylpropansulfonsäure, das beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Rheothik®11-80 im Handel erhältlich ist.More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid is obtainable for example under the name Rheothik ® 11-80 commercially.
Innerhalb dieser Ausführungsform kann es bevorzugt sein, Copolymere aus mindestens einem anionischen Monomer und mindestens einem nichtionogenen Monomer einzusetzen. Bezüglich der anionischen Monomere wird auf die oben aufgeführten Substanzen verwiesen. Bevorzugte nichtionogene Monomere sind Acrylamid, Methacrylamid, Acrylsäureester, Methacrylsäureester,In this embodiment, it may be preferred to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester,
Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylether und Vinylester. Bevorzugte aniortische Copolymere sind , Acrylsäure-Acrylamid-Copolymere sowie insbesondere Polyacrylamidcopolymere mit Sulfonsäuregruppen-haltigen Monomeren. Eiη besonders bevorzugtes anionisches Copolymer besteht aus 70 bis 55 Mol-% Acrylamid und .30, bis 45 Mol-% 2-Acrylamido-2- methylpropansulfonsäure, wobei die Sülfonsäuregruppe ganz oder teilweise als Natrium-, Kalium-, Ammonium-, Mono- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz vorliegt. Dieses Copolymer kann auch vernetzt vorliegen, wobei als Vernetzungsagentien bevorzugt polyolefinisch ungesättigte Verbindungen wie Tetraallyloxyethan, Allylsucrose, Allylpentaerythrit und Methylen-bisacrylamid zum Einsatz kommen. Ein solches Polymer ist in dem Handelsprodukt Sepigel®305 der Firma SEPPIC enthalten. Die Verwendung dieses Compounds, das neben der Polymerkomponente eine Kohlenwasserstoffmischung (Ci3-Cι -lsoparaffin) und einen nichtionogenen Emulgator (Laureth-7). enthält, hat sich im Rahmen der erfindungsgemäßen Lehre als besonders vorteilhaft erwiesen.Vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ether and vinyl ester. Preferred aniortic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and .30, to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or Triethanolammonium salt is present. This copolymer can also be crosslinked, the preferred crosslinking agents being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component, a hydrocarbon mixture (Ci 3 -Cι -Isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (Laureth-7). contains has proven to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching according to the invention.
Auch die unter der Bezeichnung Simulgel®600 als Compound mit Isohexadecan und Polysorbat-80 vertriebenen Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat-Copolymere haben sich als erfindungsgemäß besonders wirksam erwiesen.Also, as a compound with isohexadecane and sold under the name Simulgel ® 600 Polysorbate-80 sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers have proven effective as in the present invention particularly.
Ebenfalls bevorzugte anionische Homopolymere sind unvernetzte und vernetzte Polyacrylsäuren. Dabei können Allyiether von Pentaerythrit, von Sucrose und von Propylen bevorzugte Vernetzungsagentien sein. Solche Verbindungen sind beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Carbopol® im Handel erhältlich.Also preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyiether of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
Copolymere aus Maleinsäureanhydrid und Methylvinylether, insbesondere solche mit Vernetzungen, sind ebenfalls farberhaltende Polymere. Ein mit 1 ,9-Decadiene vernetztes Maleinsäure-Methylvinylether-Copolymer ist unter der Bezeichnungg Stabileze® QM im Handel erhältlich.Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-preserving polymers. A cross-linked with 1, 9-Decadiene-maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name Stabileze® ® QM.
Weiterhin erfindungsgemäß geeignete anionische Polymere sind u. a.: Vinylacetat Crotonsäure-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Bezeichnungen Resyn® (NATIONAL STARCH), Luviset® (BASF) und Gafset® (GAF) im Handel sind.Anionic polymers which are also suitable according to the invention include: Vinyl acetate-crotonic acid copolymers, such as are commercially available for example under the names Resyn ® (National Starch), Luviset ® (BASF) and Gafset ® (GAF).
Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copolymere, erhältlich beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviflex® (BASF). Ein bevorzugtes Polymer ist das unter der Bezeichnung Luviflex® VBM-35 (BASF) erhältliche Vinylpyrrolidon/Acrylat- Terpolymere.Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, obtainable for example under the trade name Luviflex ® (BASF). A preferred polymer is that available under the name Luviflex VBM-35 ® (BASF) vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymers.
Acrylsäure/Ethylacrylat N-tert.Butylacrylamid-Terpolymere, die beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Ultrahold® strong (BASF) vertrieben werden.Acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers, which are sold, for example, under the name Ultrahold ® strong (BASF).
Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel können in einer weiteren Ausführungsform nichtionogene Polymere (G4) enthalten.In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention can contain nonionic polymers (G4).
Geeignete nichtionogene Polymere sind beispielsweise: VinylpyrrolidonA inylester-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Luviskol® VA 64 und Luviskol® VA 73, jeweils Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, sind ebenfalls bevorzugte nichtionische Polymere. Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Culminal® und Benecel® (AQUALON) vertrieben werden.Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example: VinylpyrrolidonA ynyl ester copolymers, as are marketed, for example under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF). Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers. Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON).
- Schellack- Shellac
- Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol® (BASF) vertrieben werden.- polyvinylpyrrolidones, as, for example, sold under the name Luviskol ® (BASF).
- Siloxane. Diese Siloxane können sowohl wasserlöslich als auch wasserunlöslich sein. Geeignet sind sowohl flüchtige als auch nichtflüchtige Siloxane, wobei als nichtflüchtige Siloxane solche Verbindungen verstanden werden, deren Siedepunkt bei Normaldruck oberhalb von 200 °C liegt. Bevorzugte Siloxane sind Polydialkylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polydimethylsiloxan, Polyalkylarylsilόx'ane, wie beispielsweise Polyphenylmethylsiloxan, ethoxy- lierte Polydialkylsiloxane sowie, Polydialkylsiloxane, die Amin- und/oder Hydroxy-Gruppen enthalten. - Glycosidisch substituierte Silicone gemäß der EP, 0612759 B1.- siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, non-volatile siloxanes being understood to mean those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. at normal pressure. preferred Siloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane, Polyalkylarylsilόx 'ane, such as polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes, and, polydialkylsiloxanes, the amine and / or hydroxy groups contain polydialkylsiloxanes. - Glycosidically substituted silicones according to EP, 0612759 B1.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß auch möglich, daß die verwendeten Zubereitungen mehrere, insbesondere zwei verschiedene Polymere gleicher Ladung und/oder jeweils ein ionisches' und ein amphoteres und/oder nicht ionisches Polymer enthalten.It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or each contain an ionic polymer and an amphoteric and / or non-ionic polymer.
Weitere bevorzugte Polymere sind alle Polymere, welche im "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1,101 17 Street, N.W., Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) als Polymere in einem der Kapitel über Polymere wie beispielsweise "film formers" oder "hair fixatives" genannt und im Handel erhältlich sind. Auf diese Schrift und die daraus zitierten Abschnitte wird ausdrücklich Bezug genommen.Further preferred polymers are all polymers which are described in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1 , 101 17 Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Polymers are mentioned in one of the chapters on polymers such as "film formers" or "hair fixatives" and are commercially available. Reference is expressly made to this document and the sections cited from it.
Die Polymere (G) sind in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,01 bis 30 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,01 bis 25, insbesondere von 0,01 bis 15 Gew.-%, sind besonders bevorzugt.The polymers (G) are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15% by weight are particularly preferred.
Selbstverständlich kann die erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung auch weitere Komponenten, insbesondere Wirkstoffe, enthalten. Als erste Wirkstoffgruppe sind Fettstoffe (D) zu nennen. Unter Fettstoffen sind zu verstehen Fettsäuren, Fettalkohole, natürliche und synthetische Wachse, welche sowohl in fester Form als auch flüssig in wäßriger Dispersion vorliegen können, und natürliche und synthetische kosmetische Ölkomponenten zu verstehen. Als Fettsäuren (D1) können eingesetzt werden lineare und/oder verzweigte, gesättigte und/oder ungesättigte Fettsäuren mit 6 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen. Bevorzugt sind Fettsäuren mit 10 - 22 Kohlenstoffatomen. Hierunter wären beispielsweise zu nennen die Isostearinsäuren, wie die Handelsprodukte Emersol® 871 und Emersol® 875, und Isopalmitinsäuren wie das Handelsprodukt Edenor® IP 95, sowie alle weiteren unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Edenor® (Cognis) vertriebenen Fettsäuren. Weitere typische Beispiele für solche Fettsäuren sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Besonders bevorzugt sind üblicherweise die Fettsäureschnitte, welche aus Cocosöl oder Palmöl erhältlich sind; insbesondere bevorzugt ist in der Regel der Einsatz von Stearinsäure.The composition according to the invention can of course also contain further components, in particular active ingredients. The first group of active ingredients is fat (D). Fat substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components. Linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms can be used as fatty acids (D1). Fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms are preferred. Among these were, for example, to name the isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids. Other typical examples of such fatty acids are caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic, Petroselin acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleinsäure, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures, which occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. The fatty acid cuts which are obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil are usually particularly preferred; the use of stearic acid is generally particularly preferred.
Die Einsatzmenge beträgt dabei 0,1 - 15 Gew.%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel. Bevorzugt beträgt die Menge 0,5 - 10 Gew.%, wobei ganz besonders vorteilhaft Mengen von 1 - 5 Gew.% sein können.The amount used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being very particularly advantageous.
Als Fettalkohole (D2) können eingesetzt werden gesättigte, ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigte, verzweigte oder unverzweigte Fettalkohole mit C6 - C30-, bevorzugt C~ιo - C22- und ganz besonders bevorzugt C 2 - C22- Kohlenstoffatomen. Einsetzbar im Sinne der Erfindung sind beispielsweise Decanol, Octanol, Octenol, Dodecenol, Decenol, Octadienol, Dodecadienol, Decadienol, Oleylalkohol, Erucaalkohol, Ricinolalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Arachidylalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Linoleylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol und Behenylalkohol, sowie deren Guerbetalkohole, wobei diese Aufzählung beispielhaften und nicht limitierenden Charakter haben " soll. Die Fettalkohole stammen jedoch von bevorzugt natürlichen Fettsäuren ab, wobei üblicherweise von einer Gewinnung, aus den Estern der Fettsäuren durch Reduktion ausgegangen werden kann. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbar sind ebenfalls solche Fettalkoholschnitte, die durch Reduktion natürlich vorkommender Triglyceride wie Rindertalg, Palmöl/ Erdnußöl, Rüböl, Baumwollsaatöl, Sojaöl, Sonnenblumenöl und Leinöl oder aus deren Umesterungsprodukten mit entsprechenden Alkoholen entstehenden Fettsäureestern erzeugt werden, und somit ein Gemisch von unterschiedlichen Fettalkoholen darstellen. Solche Substanzen sind beispielsweise unter den Bezeichnungen Stenol®, z.B. Stenol® 1618 oder Lanette®, z.B. Lanette® O oder Lorol®, z.B. Lorol® .C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, z.B. Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 oder Isocarb® 24 käuflich zu erwerben. Selbstverständlich können erfindungsgemäß auch Wollwachsalkohole, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Bezeichnungen Cor'onä®, White Swan®, Coronet® oder Fluilan® käuflich zu erwerben sind, eingesetzt werden. Die Fettalkohole werden in Mengen von 0,1 - 30 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zubereitung, bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 - 20 Gew.-% eingesetzt.The fatty alcohols (D2) which can be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 , preferably C 10 -C 22 and very particularly preferably C 2 -C 22 carbon atoms. For example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list being exemplary and not limiting The fatty alcohols, however, derive from preferably natural fatty acids, usually being obtained from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction. Also suitable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are obtained by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil / Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil, or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® , for example Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® , e.g. Lanette ® O or Lorol ® , e.g. Lorol ® .C8, Lorol ® C14, Lorol ® C18, Lorol ® C8-18, HD-Ocenol ® , Crodacol ® , e.g. Crodacol ® CS, Novol ® , Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol 36, Isocarb 12 ®, ® Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ® 24 available for purchase. Of course, the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names Cor 'onä ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, based on the entire preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight.
Als natürliche oder synthetische Wachse (D3) können erfindungsgemäß eingesetzt werden feste Paraffine oder Isoparaffine, Camaubawachse, Bienenwachse, Candelillawachse, Ozokerite, Ceresin, Walrat, Sonnenblumenwachs, Fruchtwachse wie beispielsweise Apfelwachs oder Citruswachs, Microwachse aus PE- oder PP. Derartige Wachse sind beispielsweise erhältlich über die Fa. Kahl & Co., Trittau.Solid paraffins or isoparaffins, camauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, walrus, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes made of PE or PP can be used according to the invention as natural or synthetic waxes (D3). Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
Die Einsatzmenge beträgt 0,1 - 50 Gew.% bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, bevorzugt 0,1 - 20 Gew.% und besonders bevorzugt 0,1 - 15 Gew.% bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel. Ebenfalls als vorteilhaft hat sich die Kombination der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung mit Tensiden (E) erwiesen. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittel Tenside. Unter dem Begriff Tenside werden grenzflächenaktive Substanzen, die an Ober- und Grenzflächen Adsorptionsschichten bilden oder in Volumenphasen zu Mizellkolloiden oder lyotropen Mesophasen aggregieren können, verstanden. Man unterscheidet Aniontenside bestehend aus einem hydrophoben Rest und einer negativ geladenen hydrophilen Kopfgruppe, amphotere Tenside, welche sowohl eine negative als auch eine kompensierende positive Ladung tragen, kationische Tenside, welche neben einem hydrophoben Rest eine positiv geladene hydrophile Gruppe aufweisen, und nichtionische Tenside, welche keine Ladungen sondern starke Dipolmomente aufweisen und in wäßriger Lösung stark hydratisiert sind. Weitergehende Definitionen und Eigenschaften von Tensiden finden sich in "H. -D.Dörfler, Grenzflächen- und Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994". Die zuvor wiedergegebene Begriffsbestimmung findet sich ab S. 190 in dieser Druckschrift.The amount used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent. The combination of the composition according to the invention with surfactants (E) has also proven to be advantageous. In a further preferred embodiment, the agents used according to the invention contain surfactants. The term surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on surfaces and interfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to form micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants, which in addition to a hydrophobic residue have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution. Further definitions and properties of surfactants can be found in "H. -D. Dörfler, Grenzflächen- und Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994". The definition given above can be found from p. 190 in this publication.
Als anionische Tenside (E1) eignen sich in erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen alle für die Verwendung am menschlichen Körper geeigneten anionischen oberflächenaktiven Stoffe. Diese sind gekennzeichnet durch eine wasserlöslich machende, anionische Gruppe wie z. B. eine Carboxylat-, Sulfat-, Sulfonat- oder Phosphat-Gruppe und eine lipophile Alkylgruppe mit etwa 8 bis 30 C-Atomen. Zusätzlich können im Molekül Glykol- oder Polyglykolether-Gruppen, Ester-, Ether- und Amidgruppen sowie Hydroxylgruppen enthalten sein. Beispiele für geeignete anionische Tenside sind, jeweils in Form der Natrium-, Kalium- und Ammonium- sowie der Mono-, Di- und Trialkanolammoniumsalze mit 2 bis 4 C- Atomen in der Alkanolgruppe,Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups can be contained in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,
- lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),- linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
- Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH2-CH2θ)χ-CH2-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist, - Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe, Acyltauride mit 8. bis 24 C-Atomeη in der Acylgruppe, Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe, Sulfobemsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit .8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobemsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxye'thylgruppen, lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atόmen, liηeare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen, Aipha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, Alkylsulfate und ■ Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate . der Formel R-O(CH2-CH2O)x- OSO3H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,- ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH2-CH2θ) χ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, - acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, Acyl taurides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with .8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 C. -Atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, methyl aipha-sulfofatty acids of fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, alkyl sulfates and ■ Alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates. of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x - OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate gemäß DE-A-37 25 030, sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylen- glykolether gemäß DE-A-37 23 354,Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,
Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen gemäß DE-A-39 26 344,Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,
Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen, Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (E1-I), O R*(OCH2CH2)n— O — P — OR2 (El-I) OXEsters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I), OR * (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n - O - P - OR 2 (El-I) OX
in der R1 bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R2 für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH2CH2O)nR1 oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR3R4R5R6, mit R3 bis R6 unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C1 bis C4 - Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht, sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel (E1-II) R7CO(AlkO)nSO3M (E1-II) in der R7CO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH2CH2, CHCH3CH2 und/oder CH2CHCH3, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht, wie sie in der DE-OS 197 36 906.5 beschrieben sind, Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfäte der Formel (E1-III) CH2O(CH2CH2O)x— COR8 I (E1-III) CHO(CH2CH2O)yH I CH2O(CH2CH2O)z — SO3Xin which R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 1 or X, n is a number from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 are independently hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical, is sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (E1-II) R 7 CO (AlkO) n SO 3 M (E1-II) in the R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH2CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n for numbers of 0 , 5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III) CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) x - COR 8 I ( E1-III) CHO (CH 2 CH 2 O) y HI CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) z - SO 3 X
in der R8CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22in the R 8 CO for a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22
Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht.Carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal.
Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete . Mono- glycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurin- säuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglyceridj Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid,Typical examples of suitable for the purposes of the invention. Monoglyceride (ether) sulfates are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride,
Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonogly- cerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsul- fonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werdenStearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably be
Monoglyceridsulfate der Formel (E1-III) eingesetzt, in der R8CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht, wie sie beispielsweise in der EP-B1 0 561 825, der EP-B1 0 561 999, der DE-A1 42 04 700 oder vonMonoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) used, in which R 8 CO represents a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described, for example, in EP-B1 0 561 825, EP-B1 0 561 999, DE-A1 42 04 700 or from
A.K.Biswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960) und F.U.Ahmed inA.K. Biswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and F.U. Ahmed in
J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990) beschrieben worden sind, Amidethercarbonsäuren wie sie in der EP 0 690 044 beschrieben sind, Kondensationsprodukte aus Ca - C3o - Fettalkoholen mit Proteinhydrolysaten und/oder Aminosäuren und deren Derivaten.welche dem Fachmann als Eiweissfettsäurekondensate bekannt sind, wie beispielsweise die Lamepon® - Typen, Gluadin® - Typen, Hostapon® KCG oder die Amisoft® - Typen. Bevorzugte anionische Tenside sind.Alkylsulfate, Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate und Ethercarbonsäureh mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und bis zu 12 Glykolethergruppen.im Molekül, Sulfobemsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxy- ethylester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen, Monoglyperdisulfate, Alkyl- und Alkenyletherphosphate sowieJ.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990), amidether carboxylic acids as described in EP 0 690 044, condensation products from Ca - C 3 o - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolyzates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the person skilled in the art as protein fatty acid condensates, as for example the Lamepon ® types, Gluadin ® types, Hostapon ® KCG or the Amisoft ® types. Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acid with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglyper disulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates and
Eiweissfettsäurekondensate.Protein fatty acid condensates.
Nichtionische Tenside (E4) enthalten als hydrophile Gruppe z.B. eine Polyol- gruppe, eine Polyalkylenglykolethergruppe oder eine Kombination aus Polyol- und Polyglykolethergruppe. Solche Verbindungen sind beispielsweiseNonionic surfactants (E4) contain e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such connections are, for example
- Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,- Adducts of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 C atoms, with fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,
- mit einem Methyl- oder C2 - C_ -. Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol® LS, Dehydol® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,- With a methyl or C 2 - C_ -. Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide which are end group-capped to linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 C atoms, to fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and to alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, such as the type available under the commercial names Dehydol ® LS, Dehydol ® LT (Cognis),
- Ci2-C30-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,Ci 2 -C 30 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
- Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,- adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil,
- Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol - Typen (Cognis),- polyol, such as the commercially available product ® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),
- alkoxilierte Triglyceride,- alkoxylated triglycerides,
- alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (E4-I) R1CO-(OCH2CHR2)wOR3 (E4-I) in der R1CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R2 für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R3 für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R 1 CO- (OCH 2 CHR 2 ) w OR 3 (E4-I) in the R 1 CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 2 for hydrogen or methyl, R 3 represents linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w represents numbers from 1 to 20,
- Aminoxide,Amine oxides,
- Hydroxymischether, wie sie beipielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind,Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866,
- Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,Sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, the polysorbates,
- Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,- sugar fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
- Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine.- Addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines.
Bei den als Tensid eingesetzten Verbindungen mit Alkylgruppen kann es sich jeweils um einheitliche Substanzen handeln. Es ist jedoch in der Regel bevorzugt, bei der Herstellung dieser Stoffe von nativen pflanzlichen oder tierischen Rohstoffen auszugehen, so daß man Substanzgemische mit unterschiedlichen, vom jeweiligen Rohstoff abhängigen Alkylkettenlängen erhält.The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
Bei den Tensiden, die Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylen- und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole oder Derivate dieser Anlagerungsprodukte darstellen, können sowohl Produkte mit einer "normalen" Homologenverteilung als auch solche mit einer eingeengten Homologenverteilung verwendet werden. Unter "normaler" Homologenverteilung werden dabei Mischungen von Homologen verstanden, die man bei der Umsetzung von Fettalkohol und Alkylenoxid unter Verwendung von Alkalimetallen, Alkalimetallhydroxiden oder Alkalimetallalkoholaten als Katalysatoren erhält. Eingeengte Homologenverteilungen werden dagegen erhalten, wenn beispielsweise Hydrotalcite, Erdalkalimetallsalze von Ethercarbonsäuren, Erdalkalimetalloxide, -hydroxide oder -alkoholate als Katalysatoren verwendet werden. Die Verwendung von Produkten mit, eingeengter Homologenverteilung kann bevorzugt sein.In the case of the surfactants, which are addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used. “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are obtained as catalysts from the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates. On the other hand, narrow homolog distributions are obtained if For example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates can be used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.
Die Tenside (E) werden in Mengen von 0,1 - 45 Gew.%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 30 Gew.% und ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,5 - 25 Gew.%, bezogen auf das gesamte erfindungsgemäß verwendete Mittel, eingesetzt.The surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform kann die Wirkung der erfindungsgemäßen. Kombination durch Emulgatoren (F) gesteigert . werden. Emulgatoren bewirken an der Phasengrenzfläche die Ausbildung von wasser- bzw. ölstabilen Adsorptionsschichten, welche die dispergierten Tröpfchen gegen Koaleszenz schützen und damit die Emulsion stabilisieren. Emulgatoren sind daher wie Tenside aus einem hydrophoben und einem hydrophilen Molekülteil aufgebaut. Hydrophile Emulgatoren bilden bevorzugt O/W - Emulsionen und hydrophobe Emulgatoren bilden bevorzugt W/O - Emulsionen. Unter einer Emulsion ist eine tröpfchenförmige Verteilung (Dispersion) einer Flüssigkeit in einer anderen Flüssigkeit unter Aufwand von Energie zur Schaffung von stabilisierenden Phasengrenzflächen mittels Tensiden zu verstehen. Die Auswahl dieser emulgierenden Tenside oder Emulgatoren richtet sich dabei nach den zu dispergierenden Stoffen und der jeweiligen äußeren Phase sowie der Feinteiligkeit der Emulsion. Weiterführende Definitionen und Eigenschaften von Emulgatoren finden sich in "H.-D. Dörfler, Grenzflächen- und Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994". Erfindungsgemäß verwendbare Emulgatoren sind beispielsweiseIn a further preferred embodiment, the effect of the invention. Combination increased by emulsifiers (F). become. Emulsifiers cause water or oil-stable adsorption layers to form at the phase interface, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Like surfactants, emulsifiers are therefore made up of a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid with the use of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers is based on the substances to be dispersed and the particular external phase as well as the fine particle size of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H.-D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994". Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
- Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, Cι2-C22-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,Addition products of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, Cι 2 -C 22 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular with glycerol,
Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid- Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide, C8-C2 -Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1 ,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1 ,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol adducts with methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, C 8 -C 2 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, with degrees of oligomerization from 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and Glucose is preferred as the sugar component,
Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov®68,Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example the commercially available product Montanov ® 68,
Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil,
Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,Partial esters of polyols with 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids with 8 to 22 C atoms,
Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C- Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.Sterols. Sterols are understood to be a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on the C atom 3 of the steroid structure and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols, the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from mushrooms and yeasts.
Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z.B. als Lecithine bzw. Phospahtidylcholine aus z.B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z.B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden. Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit, Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly- 12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls® PGPH), Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C - Atomen und deren Na-, K- , Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn - Salze. Die erfindungsgerriäßen Mittel enthalten die Emulgatoren bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 - 25 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,5 - 15 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel.Phospholipids. These are primarily understood to mean the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphididyl cholines from, for example, egg yolk or plant seeds (for example soybeans). Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH), linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca , Mg and Zn salts. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
Bevorzugt können die erfindungsgemäßen. Zusammensetzungen rhindestens einen nichtionogenen Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert von 3 bis 20, gemäß den im Römpp-Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M.Regitz), 10. Auflage, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), Seite 1764, aufgeführten Definitionen enthalten. Nichtionogene Emulgatoren mit einem HLB-Wert von 5 - 18 können erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sein. Ganz besonders bevorzugt können Emulgatoren mit einem HLB - Wert von 10 bis 15 sein.Preferably, the invention. Compositions of at least one nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value of 3 to 20, according to those in the Römpp Lexicon Chemistry (Ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), Page 1764, listed definitions included. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 5-18 can be particularly preferred according to the invention. Emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10 to 15 can be very particularly preferred.
Weiterhin können in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Zubereitungen Proteinhydrolysate und/oder Aminosäuren und deren Derivate (H) enthalten sein. Proteinhydrolysate sind Produktgemische, die durch sauer, basisch oder enzymatisch katalysierten Abbau von Proteinen (Eiweißen) erhalten werden. Unter dem Begriff Proteinhydrolysate werden erfindungsgemäß auch Totalhydrolysate sowie einzelne Aminosäuren und deren Derivate sowie Gemische aus verschiedenen Aminosäuren verstanden. Weiterhin werden erfindungsgemäß aus Aminosäuren und Aminosäurederivaten aufgebaute Polymere unter dem Begriff Proteinhydrolysate verstanden. Zu letzteren sind beispielsweise Polyalanin, Polyasparagin, Polyserin etc. zu zählen. Weitere Beispiele für erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Verbindungen sind L-Alanyl-L-prolin, Polyglycin, Glycyl-L-glutamin oder D/L-Methionin-S-Methylsulfoniumchlorid. Selbstverständlich können erfindungsgemäß auch ß-Aminosäuren und deren Derivate wie ß-Alanin, Anthranilsäure oder Hippursäure eingesetzt werden. Das Molgeweicht der erfindungsgemäß einsetzbaren Proteinhydrolysate liegt zwischen 75, dem Molgewicht für Glycin, und 200000, bevorzugt beträgt das Molgewicht 75 bis 50000 und ganz besonders bevorzugt 75 bis 20000 Dalton. Erfindungsgemäß können Proteinhydrolysate sowohl pflanzlichen als auch tierischen oder marinen oder synthetischen Ursprungs eingesetzt werden.Protein hydrolyzates and / or amino acids and their derivatives (H) may also be present in the preparations used according to the invention. Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures that are obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed breakdown of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates is also understood to mean total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. According to the invention, polymers constructed from amino acids and amino acid derivatives are furthermore to be understood under the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, ß-amino acids and their derivatives such as ß-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used according to the invention. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolyzates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons. According to the invention, protein hydrolyzates of plant, animal, marine or synthetic origin can be used.
Tierische Proteinhydrolysate sind beispielsweise Elastin-, Kollagen-, Keratin-, Seiden- und Milcheiweiß-Proteinhydrolysate, die auch in Form von Salzen vorliegen können. Solche Produkte werden beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) und Kerasol® (Croda) vertrieben.Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which can also be in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois ® (Interorgana), Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Kerasol ® (Croda) sold.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist die Verwendung von Proteinhydrolysaten pflanzlichen Ursprungs, z. B. Soja-, Mandel-, Erbsen-, Kartoffel- und Weizenproteinhydrolysate. Solche Produkte sind beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda) und Crotein® (Croda) erhältlich.According to the invention, the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, e.g. B. soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), DiaMin ® (Diamalt), Lexein ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), Hydrolupin ® (Croda), Hydrosesame ® (Croda), Hydrotritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
Wenngleich der Einsatz der Proteinhydrolysate als solche bevorzugt ist, können an deren Stelle gegebenenfalls auch anderweitig erhaltene Aminosäuregemische eingesetzt werden. Ebenfalls möglich ist der Einsatz von Derivaten der Proteinhydrolysate, beispielsweise in Form ihrer Fettsäure-Kondensationsprodukte. Solche Produkte werden beispielsweise unter den Bezeichnungen Lamepon® (Cognis), Lexein® (Inolex), Crolastin® (Croda) oder Crotein® (Croda) vertrieben.Although the use of the protein hydrolyzates as such is preferred, amino acid mixtures obtained in some other way can optionally be used in their place. It is also possible to use derivatives of the protein hydrolyzates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or crotein ® (Croda).
Die Proteinhydrolysate oder deren Derivate sind in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.The protein hydrolyzates or their derivatives are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.
Weiterhin kann in einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung die Verwendung von UV - Filtern (I) weitere Vorteile bezüglich der Struktur des Haares und damit Vorteile bezüglich der Kämmbarkeit, dem Glanz oder dem Volumen ergeben! Die erfindungsgemäß zu verwendenden UV-Filter unterliegen hinsichtlich ihrer Struktur und ihrer physikalischen Eigenschaften keinen generellen Einschränkungen. Vielmehr eignen sich alle im Kosmetikbereich einsetzbaren UV-Filter, deren Absorptionsmaximunri im UVA(315-400 nm)-, im UVB(28Q-315nm)- oder im UVC(<280 nm)-Bereicb liegt. UV-Filter mit einem Absorptionsmaximum im UVB-Bereich, insbesondere im Bereich von etwa 280 bis etwa 300 nm, sind besonders bevorzugt.Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, the use of UV filters (I) can have further advantages with regard to the structure of the Hair and thus advantages in terms of combability, shine or volume! The structure and physical properties of the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions. Rather, all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector are suitable, the absorption maximum of which lies in UVA (315-400 nm) -, in UVB (28Q-315nm) - or in UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
Die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten UV-Filter können beispielsweise, ausgewählt werden aus substituierten Benzophenonen, p-Aminobenzoesäureestern, Diphenylacrylsäureestern, Zimtsäureestern, Salicylsäureestern, Benzimidazolen und o-Aminobenzoesäureestern.The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
Beispiele für erfindungsgemäß verwendbar UV-Filter sind 4-Amino-benzoesäure, N,N,N-Trimethyl-4'-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidenmethyl)anilin-methylsulfat, 3,3,5-Trimethyl- cyclohexylsalicylat (Homosalate), 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenonExamples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-amino-benzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4 ' - (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl cyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates) , 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone
(Benzophenone-3; Uvinul®M 40, Uvasorb®MET, Neo Heliopan®BB, Eusolex®4360), 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Kalium-, Natrium- und Triethanolaminsalze (Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; Parsol®HS; Neo Heliopan®Hydro), 3,3'-(1 ,4-Phenylendimethylen)-bis(7,7- dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-yl-methan-sulfonsäure) und deren Salze, 1- (4-tert.-Butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-propan-1 ,3-dion (Butyl methoxydi- benzoylmethane; Parsol®1789, Eusolex®9020), α-(2-Oxobom-3-yliden)-toluol-4- sulfonsäure und deren Salze, ethoxylierte 4-Aminobenzoesäure-ethylester (PEG- 25 PABA; Uvinul®P 25), 4-Dimethylaminobenzoesäure-2-ethylhexylester (Octyl Dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb®DMO, Escalol®507, Eusolex®6007), Salicylsäure-2- ethylhexylester (Octyl Salicylat; Escalol®587, Neo Heliopan®OS, Uvinul®O18), 4- Methoxyzimtsäure-isopentylester (Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan®E 1000), 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexyl-ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol®MCX, Escalol®557, Neo Heliopan®AV), 2-Hydroxy-4- rhethoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und deren Natriumsalz (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul®MS 40; Uvasorb®S 5), 3-(4'-Methylbenzyliden)-D,L-Campher ' (4- Methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol®5000, Eusolex®6300), 3-Benzyliden-cam- pher (3-Benzylidene camphor), 4-lsopropylbenzylsalicylat, 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p- carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi)-1 ,3,5-triazin, 3-lmidazol-4-yl-acrylsäure und deren Ethylester, Polymere des N-{(2 und 4)-[2-oxobom-3-ylidenmethyl)benzyl}- acrylamids, 2,4-Dihydroxybenzophenon (Benzophenone-1 ; Uvasorb®20 H, Uvinul®400), 1 ,1 '-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl-ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex®OCR, Neo Heliopan®Type 303, Uvinul®N 539 SG), o-Aminoben- zόesäure-menthylester (Menthyl Anthranilate; Neo Heliopan®MA), 2,2',4,4'- Tetrahydroxybenzophenon (Benzophenone-2; Uvinul®D-50), 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4,4'- dimethoxybenzophenon (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzo- phenon-5-natriumsulfonat und 2-Cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylsäure-2'- ethylhexylester. Bevorzugt sind 4-Amino-benzoesäure, N,N,N-Trimethyl-4-(2- oxoborn-3-ylidenmethyl)anilin-methylsulfat, 3,3,5-Trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylat, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenon, 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Kalium-, Natrium- und Triethanolaminsalze, 3,3'-(1 ,4-Phenylendimethylen)- bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1 -yl-methan-sulfonsäure) und deren Salze, 1-(4-tert.-Butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-propan-1 ,3-dion, α-(2- Oxoborn-3-yliden)-toluol-4-sulfonsäure und deren Salze, ethoxylierte 4- Aminobenzoesäure-ethylester, 4-Dimethylaminobenzoesäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-isopentylester, 4- Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexyl-ester, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5- sulfonsäure und deren Natriumsalz, 3-(4'-Methylbenzyliden)-D,L-Campher, 3- Benzyliden-campher, 4-lsopropylbenzylsalicylat, 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'- ethylhexyl-1 '-oxi)-1 ,3,5-triazin, 3-lmidazol-4-yl-acrylsäure und deren Ethylester, Polymere des N-{(2 und 4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidenmethyl]benzyl}-acrylamid. Erfindungsgemäß ganz besonders bevorzugt sind 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-ben- zophenon, 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Kalium-, Natrium- und Triethanolaminsalze, 1 -(4-tert.-Butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-propan-1 ,3- dion, 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexyl-ester und 3-(4'-Methylbenzyliden)-D,L- Cämpher.(Benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40, Uvasorb ® MET, Neo Heliopan ® BB, Eusolex ® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; Parsol ® HS; Neo Heliopan ® Hydro), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and their salts , 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (butyl methoxydi- benzoylmethane; Parsol ® 1789 Eusolex ® 9020), α- (2-Oxobom-3 -ylidene) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ® DMO, Escalol ® 507 , Eusolex ® 6007), 2-ethylhexyl salicylic acid (octyl salicylate; Escalol ® 587, Neo Heliopan ® OS, Uvinul ® O18), isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ® E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid -2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl methoxy cinnamate; Parsol ® MCX, Escalol ® 557, Neo Heliopan ® AV), 2-hydroxy-4- rhethoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ® MS 40; Uvasorb ® S 5), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor ' (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ® 5000, Eusolex ® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1, 3, 5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxobom-3-ylidenemethyl) benzyl} - acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone- 1; Uvasorb ® 20 H, Uvinul ® 400), 1, 1 '-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene; Eusolex ® OCR, Neo Heliopan ® Type 303, Uvinul ® N 539 SG), o-aminoben- zόesäure- menthyl ester (menthyl anthranilate; Neo Heliopan ® MA), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-2; Uvinul ® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone- 6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid-2'-ethylhexyl ester. 4-Amino-benzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone are preferred , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) - bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and their salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3- ylidene) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated ethyl 4-aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2 -Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p- carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-oxy) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N- {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide. According to the invention, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1 - (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4- methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3 dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid, 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L- camphor.
Bevorzugt sind solche UV-Filter, deren molarer Extinktionskoeffizient am Absorptionsmaximum oberhalb von 15 000, insbesondere'öberhalb von 20000, liegt.Preferred UV filters are those whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
Weiterhin wurde gefunden, daß bei strukturell ähnlichen UV-Filtern in vielen Fällen die wasserunlösliche Verbindung im Rahmen der erfindungsgemäßen Lehre die höhere Wirkung gegenüber solchen wasserlöslichen Verbindungen aufweist, die sich von ihr durch eine oder mehrere zusätzlich ionische Gruppen unterscheiden. Als wasserunlöslich sind im Rahmen der Erfindung solche UV- Filter zu verstehen, die sich bei 20 °C zu nicht mehr als 1 Gew.-%, insbesondere zu nicht mehr als 0,1 Gew.-%, in Wasser lösen. Weiterhin sollten diese Verbindungen in üblichen kosmetischen Ölkomponenten bei Raumtemperatur zu mindestens 0,1 , insbesondere zu mindestens 1 Gew.-% löslich sein). Die Verwendung wasserunlöslicher UV-Filter kann daher erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sein.Furthermore, it has been found that in structurally similar UV filters, the water-insoluble compound has, in the context of the teaching according to the invention, the higher activity than those water-soluble compounds which differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. Within the scope of the invention, water-insoluble are UV filters which do not dissolve in water at 20 ° C. by more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, these compounds should be at least 0.1, in particular at least 1% by weight soluble in conventional cosmetic oil components at room temperature). The use of water-insoluble UV filters can therefore be preferred according to the invention.
Gemäß einer weiteren Ausführungsform der Erfindung sind solche UV-Filter bevorzugt, die eine kationische Gruppe, insbesondere eine quartäre Ammoniumgruppe, aufweisen.According to a further embodiment of the invention, those UV filters are preferred which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
Diese UV-Filter weisen die allgemeine Struktur U - Q auf.These UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
Der Strukturteil U steht dabei für eine UV-Strahlen absorbierende Gruppe. Diese Gruppe kann sich im Prinzip von den bekannten, im Kosmetikbereich einsetzbaren, oben genannten UV-Filtern ableiten, in dem eine Gruppe, in der Regel ein Wasserstoffatom, des UV-Filters durch eine kationische Gruppe Q, insbesondere mit einer quartären Aminofunktion, ersetzt wird. Verbindungen, von denen sich der Strukturteil U ableiten kann, sind beispielsweise - substituierte Benzophenone,The structural part U stands for a group that absorbs UV rays. In principle, this group can be derived from the known UV filters mentioned above, which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, usually a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary amino function , Connections from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example - substituted benzophenones,
- p-Aminobenzoesäureester,p-aminobenzoic acid ester,
- Diphenylacrylsäureester,- diphenylacrylic acid ester,
- Zimtsäureester,- cinnamic acid esters,
- Salicylsäureester,- salicylic acid esters,
- Benzimidazole und- benzimidazoles and
- o-Aminobenzoesäureester.o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
Strukturteile U, die sich vom Zimtsäureamid oder vom N,N-Dimethylamino- benzoesäureamid ableiten, sind erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt.Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.
Die Strukturteile U können prinzipiell so gewählt werden, daß das Absorptionsmaximum der UV-Filter sowohl im UVA(315-400 nm)-, als auch im UVB(280-315nm)- oder im UVC(<280 nm)-Bereich liegen kann. UV-Filter mit einem Absorptionsmaximum im UVB-Bereich, insbesondere im Bereich von etwa 280 bis etwa 300 nm, sind besonders bevorzugt.The structural parts U can in principle be selected so that the absorption maximum of the UV filter can be both in the UVA (315-400 nm) - and in the UVB (280-315nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
Weiterhin wird der Strukturteil U, auch in Abhängigkeit von Strukturteil Q, bevorzugt so gewählt, daß der molare Extinktionskoeffizient des UV-Filters am Absorptionsmaximum oberhalb von 15 000, insbesondere oberhalb von 20000, liegt.Furthermore, the structural part U, also depending on the structural part Q, is preferably selected such that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
Der Strukturteil Q enthält als kationische Gruppe bevorzugt eine quartäre Ammoniumgruppe. Diese quartäre Ammoniumgruppe kann prinzipiell direkt mit dem Strukturteil U verbunden sein, so daß der Strukturteil U einen der vier Substituenten des positiv geladenen Stickstoffatomes darstellt. Bevorzugt ist jedoch einer der vier Substituenten am positiv geladenen Stickstoffatom eine Gruppe, insbesondere eine Alkylengruppe mit 2 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, die als Verbindung zwischen dem Strukturteil U und dem positiv geladenen Stickstoffatom fungiert. Vorteilhafterweise hat die Gruppe Q die allgemeine Struktur -(CH2)χ-N+R1R2R3 X" , in der x steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 4, R und R2 unabhängig voneinander stphen für C- -Alkylgruppen, R3 steht für eine Cι-22-Alkylgruppe oder eine Benzylgruppe und X" für ein .physiologisch verträgliches Anion. Im Rahmen dieser allgemeinen Struktur steht x bevorzugt für die die Zahl 3, R1 und R2 jeweils für eine Methylgruppe und R3 entweder für eine Methylgruppe oder eine gesättigte oder ungesättigte, lineare oder verzweigte Kohlenwasserstoffkette mit 8 bis 22, insbesondere 10 bis 18, Kohlenstoffatomen.The structural part Q preferably contains a quaternary ammonium group as the cationic group. In principle, this quaternary ammonium group can be directly connected to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. However, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is preferably a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a connection between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom. The group Q advantageously has the general structure - (CH 2 ) χ-N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X " , in which x represents an integer from 1 to 4, R and R 2 independently of one another are C- - Alkyl groups, R 3 stands for a -C 22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X " for a. Physiologically compatible anion. Within the framework of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R 1 and R 2 each for a methyl group and R 3 either for a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain with 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.
Physiologisch verträgliche Anionen sind beispielsweise anorganische Aniorten wie Halogenide, insbesondere Chlorid, Bromid und Fluorid, Sulfationen und Phosphationen sowie organische Anionen wie Lactat, Citrat, Acetat, Tartrat, Methosulfat und Tosylat.Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions, and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
Zwei bevorzugte UV-Filter mit kationischen Gruppen sind die als Handelsprodukte ' erhältlichen Verbindungen Zimtsäureamidopropyl- trimethylammoniumchlorid (lncroquat®UV-283) und Dodecyl- dimethylaminobenzamidopropyl-dimethylammoniumtosylat (Escalol® HP 610).Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the 'available as commercial products compounds Zimtsäureamidopropyl- trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
Selbstverständlich umfaßt die erfindungsgemäße Lehre auch die Verwendung einer Kombination von mehreren UV-Filtern. Im Rahmen dieser Ausführungsform ist die Kombination mindestens eines wasserunlöslichen UV-Filters mit mindestens einem UV-Filter mit einer kationischen Gruppe bevorzugt.Of course, the teaching according to the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
Die UV-Filter (I) sind in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln üblicherweise in Mengen 0,1-5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,4-2,5 Gew.-% sind bevorzugt.The UV filters (I) are usually contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.4-2.5% by weight are preferred.
Die Wirkung der erfindungsgemäßen Kombination kann weiterhin durch eine 2- Pyrrolidinon-5-carbonsäure und deren Derivate (J) gesteigert werden. Ein weiterer Gegenstand der Erfindung ist daher die Verwendung des Wirkstoffes in Kombination mit Derivaten der 2-Pyrrolidinon-5-carbonsäure. Bevorzugt sind die Natrium-, Kalium-, Calcium-, Magnesium- oder Ammoniumsalze, bei denen das Ammoniumion neben Wasserstoff eine bis drei d- bis C4-Alkylgruppen trägt. Das Natriumsalz ist ganz besonders bevorzugt. Die, eingesetzten Mengen in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln betragen 0,05 bis 10 Gew.%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 bis 5, und insbesondere 0,1 bis 3 Gew.%.The effect of the combination according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Another object of the invention is therefore the use of the active ingredient in Combination with derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries one to three d to C 4 alkyl groups in addition to hydrogen. The sodium salt is very particularly preferred. Those amounts used in the inventive compositions are from 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total composition, more preferably 0.1 to 5, and especially 0.1 to 3 wt.%.
Ebenfalls als vorteilhaft hat sich die Kombination des Wirkstoffes (A) mit Vitaminen, Provitaminen und Vitaminvorstufen sowie deren Derivaten (K) erwiesen.The combination of active ingredient (A) with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) has also proven to be advantageous.
Dabei sind erfindungsgemäß solche Vitamine, Pro-Vitamine und Vitaminvorstufen bevorzugt, die üblicherweise den Gruppen A, B, C, E, F und H zugeordnet werden.Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred according to the invention.
Zur Gruppe der als Vitamin A bezeichneten Substanzen gehören das Retinol (Vitamin A sowie das 3,4-Didehydroretinol (Vitamin A2). Das ß-Carotin ist das Provitamin des Retinols. Als Vitamin A-Komponente kommen erfindungsgemäß beispielsweise Vitamin A-Säure und deren Ester, Vitamin A-Aldehyd und Vitamin A-Alkohol sowie dessen Ester wie das Palmitat und das Acetat in Betracht. Die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Zubereitungen enthalten die Vitamin A- Komponente bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05-1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zubereitung.Retinol (vitamin A and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ) belong to the group of substances designated as vitamin A. β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. According to the invention, vitamin A acid and their esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and their esters such as palmitate and acetate are considered The preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the entire preparation.
Zur Vitamin B-Gruppe oder zu dem Vitamin B-Komplex gehören u. a.The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
- Vitamin B-i (Thiamin)- Vitamin B-i (thiamine)
- Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin)- Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
- Vitamin B3. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäß verwendetenen Mitteln bevorzugt , in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist.- Vitamin B 3 . The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often listed under this name. According to the invention, preference is given to the nicotinamide which is used in the compounds according to the invention agents used is preferably contained in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
- Vitamin B5 (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantplacton). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol , und/oder Pantolacton eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Pa'ntbenols sind insbesondere die Ester, und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthe- nolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 offenbarten katiohischen Panthenolderivate. • Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B5-Typs sind in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,1 - 5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.- Vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantplactone). Within this group, panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used. Derivatives of pantbenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters, and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and the potassium panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. • The compounds of the vitamin B 5 type mentioned are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5% by weight are particularly preferred.
- Vitamin β (Pyridoxin sowie PyriÜoxamin und Pyridoxal).- Vitamin β (pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
Vitamin C (Ascorbinsäure). Vitamin C wird in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 bis 3 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel eingesetzt. Die Verwendung in Form des Palmitinsäureesters, der Glucoside oder Phosphate kann bevorzugt sein. Die Verwendung in Kombination mit Tocopherolen kann ebenfalls bevorzugt sein.Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferably used in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total agent. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates can be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
Vitamin E (Tocopherole, insbesondere α-Tocopherol). Tocopherol und seine Derivate, worunter insbesondere die Ester wie das Acetat, das Nicotinat, das Phosphat und das Succinat fallen, sind in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05-1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Vitamin F. Unter dem Begriff "Vitamin F" werden üblicherweise essentielle Fettsäuren, insbesondere Linolsäure, Linolensäure und Arachidonsäure, verstanden.Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent , Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" usually means essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
Vitamin H. Als Vitamin H wird die Verbindung (3aS,4S, 6aR)-2-Oxohexa- hydrothienol[3,4-c/]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure bezeichnet, für die sich aber inzwischen der Trivialname Biotin durchgesetzt hat. Biotin ist in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1 ,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-% enthalten.Vitamin H. The compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexa- hydrothienol [3,4-c /] - imidazole-4-valeric acid is called vitamin H, but for which there is the trivial name biotin has now become established. Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
Bevprzugt enthalten die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittel Vitamine, Provitamine und Vitaminvorstufen aus den Gruppen A, B, E und H.The agents used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
Panthenol, Pantolacton, Pyridoxin und seine Derivate sowie Nicotinsäureamid und Biotin sind besonders bevorzugt.Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.
Schließlich läßt sich die Wirkung auch durch den kombinierten Einsatz mit Pflanzenextrakten (L) steigern.Finally, the effect can also be increased by the combined use with plant extracts (L).
Üblicherweise werden diese Extrakte durch Extraktion der gesamten Pflanze hergestellt. Es kann aber in einzelnen Fällen auch bevorzugt sein, die Extrakte ausschließlich aus Blüten und/oder Blättern der Pflanze herzustellen.These extracts are usually produced by extracting the entire plant. In individual cases, however, it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
Hinsichtlich der erfindungsgemäß verwendbaren Pflanzenextrakte wird insbesondere auf die Extrakte hingewiesen, die in der auf Seite 44 der 3. Auflage des Leitfadens zur Inhaltsstoffdeklaration kosmetischer Mittel, herausgegeben vom Industrieverband Körperpflege- und Waschmittel e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt, beginnenden Tabelle aufgeführt sind.With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, reference is made in particular to the extracts which are listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guide to the declaration of ingredients of cosmetic products, published by the Industrieverband Körperpflege- und Waschmittel e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.
Erfindungsgemäß sind vor allem die Extrakte aus Grünem Tee, Eichenrinde, Brennessel, Hamamelis, Baldrian, Hopfen, Henna, Kamille, Klettenwurzel, Schachtelhalm, Weißdorn, Lindenblüten, Mandel, Aloe Vera, Fichtennadel, Roßkastanie, Sandelholz, Wacholder, Kokosnuß, Mango, Aprikose, Limone, Weizen, Kiwi, Melone, Orange, Grapefruit, Salbei, Rosmarin, Birke, Malve, Wiesenschaumkraut, Quendel, Schafgarbe, Thymian, Melisse, Hauhechel, Huflattich, Eibisch, Meristem, Ginseng und Ingwerwurzel bevorzugt. Besonders bevorzugt sind die Extrakte aus Grünem Tee, Eichenrinde, Brennessel, Hamamelis, Hopfen, Baldrian, Kamille, Klettenwurzel, Schachtelhalm, Lindenblüten, Mandel, Aloe Vera,, Kokosnuß, Mango, Aprikose, Limone, Weizen, Kiwi, Melone, Orange,- Grapefruit, Salbei, Rosmarin, Birke, Wiesenschaumkraut, Quendel, Schafgarbe, Hauhephel, Meristem, Ginseng und Ingwerwurzel.According to the invention, the extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, valerian, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera, spruce needles, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot , Lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, hake, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root preferred. The extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, valerian, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera , coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange are particularly preferred. Grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, hauhephel, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.
Ganz besonders für die erfindungsgemäße Verwendung geeignet sind die Extrakte aus Grünem Tee, Baldrian, Mandel, Aloe Vera, Kokosnuß, Mango, Aprikose, Limone, Weizen, Kiwi und Melone. , . . The extracts from green tea, valerian, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are particularly suitable for the use according to the invention. ,. ,
Als Extraktionsmittel zur Herstellung der genannten Pflanzenextrakte können Wasser, Alkohole sowie deren Mischungen verwendet werden. Unter den Alkoholen sind dabei niedere Alkohole , wie Ethanol und Isopropanol, insbesondere aber mehrwertige Alkohole wie Ethylenglykol und Propylenglykol, sowohl als alleiniges Extraktionsmittel als auch in Mischung mit Wasser, bevorzugt. Pflanzenextrakte auf Basis von Wasser/Propylenglykol im Verhältnis 1 :10 bis 10:1 haben sich als besonders geeignet erwiesen.Water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extractants for the production of the plant extracts mentioned. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyhydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, are preferred both as the sole extracting agent and as a mixture with water. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
Die Pflanzenextrakte können erfindungsgemäß sowohl in reiner als auch in verdünnter Form eingesetzt werden. Sofern sie in verdünnter Form eingesetzt werden, enthalten sie üblicherweise ca. 2 - 80 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz und als Lösungsmittel das bei ihrer Gewinnung eingesetzte Extraktionsmittel oder Extraktionsmittelgemisch.According to the invention, the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction.
Weiterhin kann es bevorzugt sein, in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln Mischungen aus mehreren, insbesondere aus zwei, verschiedenen Pflanzenextrakten einzusetzen.Furthermore, it may be preferred to use mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the agents according to the invention.
Zusätzlich kann es sich als vorteilhaft erweisen, wenn neben der erfindungsgemäßen Kombination Penetrationshilfsstoffe und/ oder Quellmittel (M) enthalten sind. Diese Hilfsstoffe sorgen für eine bessere Penetration von Wirkstoffen in die keratinische Faser oder helfen die keratinische Faser aufzuquellen. Hierzu sind beispielsweise zu zählen Harnstoff und Harnstoffderivate, Guanidin und dessen Derivate, Arginin und dessen Derivate, Wasserglas, Imidazol und Dessen Derivate, Histidin und dessen Derivate, Benzylalkohol, Glycerin, Glykol und Glykolether, Propylenglykol und Propylenglykolether, beispielsweise Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Diole und Triole, und insbesondere 1 ,2-Diole und 1 ,3-Diole wie beispielsweise 1 ,2-Propandiol, 1 ,2-Pentandiol, 1 ,2-Hexandiol, 1,2- Dodecandiol, 1 ,3-Propandiol, 1 ,6-Hexandiol, 1 ,5-Pentandiol, 1 ,4-Butandiol.In addition, it can prove to be advantageous if, in addition to the combination according to the invention, penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M) are included. These auxiliaries ensure better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as, for example, 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1st , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.
Vorteilhaft im Sinne der Erfindung können zusätzlich kurzkettige Carbonsäuren (N) unterstützend mit der erfindungsgemäßen Kombination zusammenwirken. Unter kurzkettigen Carbonsäuren und deren Derivaten im Sinne der Erfindung werden Carbonsäuren verstanden, welche gesättigt oder ungesättigt und/oder geradkettig oder verzweigt oder cyclisch und/oder aromatisch und/oder heterocyclisch sein können und ein Molekulargewicht kleiner 750 aufweisen. Bevorzugt im Sinne der Erfindung können gesättigte oder ungesättigte geradkettigte oder verzweigte Carbonsäuren mit einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis zu 16 C-Atomen in der Kette sein, ganz besonders bevorzugt sind solche mit einer Kettenlänge von 1 bis zu 12 C - Atomen in der Kette.Advantageously in the sense of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) can additionally support the combination according to the invention. Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives for the purposes of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which can be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 16 carbon atoms in the chain, very particularly preferred are those with a chain length of 1 to 12 carbon atoms in the chain.
Die kurzkettigen Carbonsäuren im Sinne der Erfindung können ein, zwei, drei oder mehr Carboxygruppen aufweisen. Bevorzugt im Sinne der Erfindung sind Carbonsäuren mit mehreren Carboxygruppen, insbesondere Di- und Tricarbonsäuren. Die Carboxygruppen können ganz oder teilweise als Ester, Säureanhydrid, Lacton, Amid, Imidsäure, Lactam, Lactim, Dicarboximid, Carbohydrazid, Hydrazon, Hydroxam, Hydroxim, Amidin, Amidoxim, Nitril, Phosphon- oder Phosphatester vorliegen. Die erfindungsgemäßen Carbonsäuren können selbstverständlich entlang der Kohlenstoffkette oder des Ringgerüstes substituiert sein. Zu den Substituenten der erfindungsgemäßen Carbonsäuren sind beispielsweise zu zählen C1-C8-Alkyi-, G2-C8-Alkenyl-, Aryl-, Aralkyl- und Aralkenyl-, Hydroxymethyl-, C2-C8-Hydroxyalkyl-,C2-C8-Hydroxyalkenyl-, Aminomethyl-, G2-C8-Aminoalkyl-, Cyano-, Formyl-, Oxo-, Thioxo-, Hydroxy-, Mercapto-, Amino-, Carboxy- oder Iminogruppen. Bevorzugte Substituenten sind C1-C8-Alkyl-, Hydroxymethyl-, Hydroxy-, • Amino- und Carboxygruppen. Besonders bevorzugt sind Substituenten in α - Stellung. Ganz besonders bevorzugte Substituenten sind Hydroxy-, Alkoxy- urid Aminogruppen, wobei dieThe short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention can have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. For the purposes of the invention, preference is given to carboxylic acids having several carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups can be present in whole or in part as an ester, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids according to the invention can of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring structure. The substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, C1-C8-alkyl, G2-C8-alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl, G2-C8 -Aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C1-C8-alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, • amino and carboxy groups. Substituents in the α position are particularly preferred. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxyuride amino groups, the
Aminofunktion gegebenenfalls durch Alkyl:, Aryl-; Aralkyl- und/oder Alkenylreste weiter substituiert sein kann. Weiterhin sind ebenfalls bevorzugte Carbonsäurederivate die Phosphon- und Phosphatester.Amino optionally substituted by alkyl: aryl; Aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals can be further substituted. Furthermore, preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.
Als Beispiele für erfindungsgemäße Carbonsäuren seien genannt Ameisensäure, Essigsäure, Propionsäure, Buttersäure, Isobuttersäure, Valeriansäure, Isovaleriansäure, Pivalinsäure, Oxalsäure, , Malonsäure, Bernsteinsäure, Glutarsäure, Glycerinsäure, Glyoxylsäure, Adipiηsäure, Pimelinsäure, Korksäure, Azelainsäure, Sebacinsäure, Propiolsäure, Crotonsäure, Isocrotonsäure, Elaidinsäure, Maleinsäure, Fumarsäure, Muconsäure, Citraconsäure, Mesaconsäure, Camphersäure, Benzoesäure, o,m,p-Phthalsäure, Naphthoesäure, Toluoylsäure, Hydratropasäure, Atropasäure, Zimtsäure, Isonicotinsäure, Nicotinsäure, Bicarbaminsäure, 4,4'-Dicyano-6,6'-binicotinsäure, 8-Carbamoyloctansäure, 1 ,2,4-Pentantricarbonsäure, 2-Pyrrolcarbonsäure, 1 ,2,4,6,7-Napthalinpentaessigsäure, Malonaldehydsäure, 4-Hydroxy- phthalamidsäure, 1-Pyrazolcarbonsäure, Gallussäure oder Propantricarbonsäure, eine Dicarbonsäure ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird durch Verbindungen der allgemeinen Formel (N-l),Examples of carboxylic acids according to the invention are formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, propolic acid, sebacic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, azelaic acid, azelaic acid, Isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluoylic acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, 6'-dicarbamic acid, 4,4'-dicarbamic acid , 6 ' -binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1, 2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1, 2,4,6,7-naphthalenepentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group formed by verbin solutions of the general formula (Nl),
in der Z steht für eine lineare oder verzweigte Alkyl- oder Alkenylgruppe mit 4 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, n für eine Zahl von 4 bis .12 sowie eine der beiden Gruppen X und Y für eine COOH-Gruppe und die andere für Wasserstoff oder einen Methyl- oder Ethylrest, Dicarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (N-l), die zusätzlich noch 1 bis 3 Methyl- oder Ethylsubstituenten am Cyclohexenring tragen sowie Dicarbonsäuren, die aus den Dicarbonsäuren gemäß Formel (N-l) formal durch Anlagerung eines Moleküls Wasser an die Doppelbindung im Cyclohexenring entstehen. in the Z stands for a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group with 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n for a number from 4 to .12 and one of the two groups X and Y for a COOH group and the other for hydrogen or a methyl or ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (Nl) which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids which formally form from the dicarboxylic acids of the formula (Nl) by the addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.
Dicarbonsäuren der Formel (N-l) sind in der Literatur bekannt.Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-1) are known in the literature.
Ein Herstellungsverfahren ist beispielsweise der US-Patentschrift 3,753,968 zu entnehmen. Die deutsche Patentschrift 22 50 055 offenbart die Verwendung dieser Dicarbonsäuren in flüssigen Seifenmassen. Aus der deutschen Offenlegungsschrift 28 33 291 sind deodorierende Mittel bekannt, die Zink- oder Magnesiumsalze dieser Dicarbonsäuren enthalten. Schließlich sind aus der deutschen Offenlegungsschrift 35 03 618 Mittel zum Waschen und Spülen der Haare bekannt, bei denen durch Zusatz dieser Dicarbonsäuren eine merklich verbesserte haarkosmetische Wirkung der im Mittel enthaltenen wasserlöslichen ionischen Polymeren erhalten wird. Schließlich sind aus der deutschen Offenlegungsschrift 197 54 053 Mittel zur Haarbehandlung bekannt, welche pflegende Effekte aufweisen.A manufacturing process can be found, for example, in US Pat. No. 3,753,968. German patent specification 22 50 055 discloses the use of these dicarboxylic acids in liquid soap compositions. From German published patent application 28 33 291 deodorising agents are known which contain zinc or magnesium salts of these dicarboxylic acids. Finally, from German Offenlegungsschrift 35 03 618 agents for washing and rinsing the hair are known, in which the addition of these dicarboxylic acids gives a noticeably improved hair cosmetic effect of the water-soluble ionic polymers contained in the agent. Finally, from German published patent application 197 54 053 agents for hair treatment are known which have nourishing effects.
Die Dicarbonsäuren der Formel (N-l) können beispielsweise durch Umsetzung von mehrfach ungesättigten Dicarbonsäuren mit ungesättigten Monocarbonsäuren in Form einer Diels-Alder-Cyclisierung hergestellt werden. Üblicherweise wird man von einer mehrfach ungesättigten Fettsäure als Dicarbonsäurekomponente ausgehen. Bevorzugt ist die aus natürlichen Fetten und Ölen zugängliche Linolsäure. Als Monocarbonsäurekomponente sind insbesondere Acrylsäure, aber auch z.B. Methacrylsäure und Crotonsäure bevorzugt. Üblicherweise entstehen bei Reaktionen nach Diels-Alder Isome- rengemische, bei denen eine Komponente im Überschuß vorliegt. Diese Isomerengemische können erfindungsgemäß ebenso wie die reinen Verbindungen eingesetzt werden.The dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization. A polyunsaturated fatty acid is usually used as the dicarboxylic acid component. The linoleic acid accessible from natural fats and oils is preferred. Acrylic acid, but also, for example, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are particularly preferred as the monocarboxylic acid component. Reactions according to Diels-Alder usually produce isome- Rengemische in which one component is in excess. According to the invention, these isomer mixtures can be used just like the pure compounds.
Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbar neben den bevorzugten Dicarbonsäuren gemäß Formel (N-l) sind auch solche Dicarbonsäuren, die sich von den Verbindungen gemäß Formel (N-l) durch 1 bis 3 Methyl- oder Ethyl-Substituenten am Cyclo- hexylring unterscheiden oder aus diesen Verbindungen formal durch Anlagerung von einem Molekül Wasser an die Doppelbildung des Cyclohexenrings gebildet werden.In addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids of the formula (Nl), those dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds of the formula (Nl) by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally by addition of one of these compounds can also be used according to the invention Molecule water is formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.
Als erfindungsgemäß besonders wirksam hat sich die Dicarbonsäure(-mischung) erwiesen, die durch Umsetzung von Linolsäure mit Acrylsäure entsteht. Es handelt sich dabei um eine Mischung aus 5- und 6-Carboxy-4-hexyl-2- cyclohexen-1-octansäure. Solche Verbindungen sind kommerziell unter den Bezeichnungen Westvaco Diaeid® 1550 und Westvaco Diaeid® 1595 (Hersteller: Westvaco) erhältlich.The dicarboxylic acid (mixture) which results from the reaction of linoleic acid with acrylic acid has proven to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexen-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ® ® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).
Neben den zuvor beispielhaft aufgeführten erfindungsgemäßen kurzkettigen Carbonsäuren selbst können auch deren physiologisch verträgliche Salze erfindungsgemäß eingesetzt werden. Beispiele für solche Salze sind die Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Zinksalze sowie Ammoniumsalze, worunter im Rahmen der vorliegenden Anmeldung auch die Mono-, Di- und Trimethyl-, -ethyl- und - hydroxyethyl-Ammoniumsalze zu verstehen sind. Ganz besonders bevorzugt können im Rahmen der Erfindung jedoch mit alkalisch reagierenden Aminosäuren, wie beispielsweise Arginin, Lysin, Ornithin und Histidin, neutralisierte Säuren eingesetzt werden. Weiterhin kann es aus Formulierungsgründen bevorzugt sein, die Carbonsäure aus den wasserlöslichen Vertretern, insbesondere den wasserlöslichen Salzen, auszuwählen. Weiterhin ist es erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, Hydroxycarbonsäuren und hierbei wiederum insbesondere die Dihydroxy-, Trihydroxy- undIn addition to the short-chain carboxylic acids themselves according to the invention, which have been exemplified above, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention. Examples of such salts are the alkali, alkaline earth, zinc and ammonium salts, which in the context of the present application are also to be understood as the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and - hydroxyethyl-ammonium salts. However, acids which are neutralized with alkaline reacting amino acids, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, can very particularly preferably be used in the context of the invention. For formulation reasons, it may furthermore be preferred to select the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts. Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention to use hydroxycarboxylic acids, and in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and
Polyhydroxycarbonsäuren sowie die Dihydroxy-, Trihydroxy- und Pplyhydroxy- di- , tri- und polycarbonsäuren gemeinsam mit dpm Wirkstoff (A) einzusetzen. Hierbei hat sich gezeigt, daß neben den Hydroxycarbonsäuren auch die Hydroxycarbonsäureester sowie die Mischungen aus Hydroxycarbonsäuren und deren Estern als auch polymere Hydroxycarbonsäuren und deren Ester ganz besonders bevorzugt sein können. Bevorzugte Hydroxycarbonsäureester sind beispielsweise Vollester der Glycolsäure, Milchsäure, Äpfelsäure, Weinsäure oder Citronensäure. Weitere grundsätzlich geeigneten Hydroxycarbonsäureester sind Ester der ß-Hydroxypropionsäure, der Tartronsäure, der D-Gluconsäure, der Zuckersäure, der Schleimsäure oder der Glucuronsäure. Als Alkoholkomponente dieser Ester eignen sich primäre, lineare oder verzweigte aliphatische Alkohole mit 8 - 22 C-Atomen, also z.B. Fettalkohole oder synthetische Fettalkohole. Dabei sind die Ester von C12-C15-Fettalkoholen besonders bevorzugt. Ester dieses Typs sind im Handel erhältlich, z.B. unter dem Warenzeichen Cosmacol® der EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Besonders bevorzugte Polyhydroxypolycarbonsäuren sind Polymilchsäure und Polyweinsäure sowie deren Ester.Use polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and pplyhydroxy di, tri and polycarboxylic acids together with dpm active ingredient (A). It has been shown here that, in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Other basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols with 8-22 C atoms, for example fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxy polycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and poly-tartaric acid and their esters.
Eine ganz besonders vielfältige und interessante kosmetische Wirkstoffgruppe sind Polyhydroxyverbindungen. Die erfindungsgemäße Verwendung von Polyhydroxyverbindungen als Wirkstoff mit den anderen erfindungsgemäßen Komponenten kann daher besonders bevorzugt sein. Unter Polyhydroxyverbindungen im Sinne der Erfindung werden alle Substanzen verstanden, welche die Definition in Römpp's Lexikon der Chemie, Version 2.0 der CD - ROM Ausgabe von 1999, Verlag Georg Thieme, erfüllen. Demnach sind unter Polyhydroxyverbindungen organische Verbindungen mit mindestens zwei Hydroxygruppen zu verstehen. Insbesondere sind im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung hierunter zu verstehen: Polyole mit mindestens zwei Hydroxygruppen, und mit einer Kohlenstoffkette von 2 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomenwie beispielsweise Trimethylolpropan, Ethoxilate und/oder Propoxylate mit 1 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und oder Propylenoxid der zuvor genannten Polyole, Kohlenhydrate, Zuckeralkohole und Zucker sowie .deren Salze, insbesondere Monosaccharide, Disaccharide, Trisaccharide und Oligosaccharide, wobei diese auch in Form on Aldosen, Ketosen und/oder Lactosen, sowie geschützt durch übliche und in der Literatur bekannte -OH - und -NH - Schutzgruppen, wie beispielsweise die Triflatgruppe, die Trimethylsilylgruppe oder Acylgruppen sowie weiterhin- in Form der Methylether und als Phosphatester, vorliegen können, Aminodesoxyzucker, Desoxyzucker, Thiozucker, wobei diese auch in Form von Aldosen, Ketosen und/oder Lactosen, sowie geschützt durch übliche und in der Literatur bekannte -OH - und -NH - Schutzgruppen, wie beispielsweise die Triflatgruppe, die Trimethylsilylgruppe oder Acylgruppen sowie weiterhin in Form der Methylether und als Phosphatester, vorliegen können, Bevorzugt sind hierunter Monosaccharide mit 3 bis 8 C - Atomen, wie beispielsweise Triosen, Tetrosen, Pentosen, Hexosen, Heptosen und Octosen, wobei diese auch in Form von Aldosen, Ketosen und/oder Lactosen sowie geschützt durch übliche und in der Literatur bekannte -OH - und -NH - Schutzgruppen, wie beispielsweise die Triflatgruppe, die Trimethylsilylgruppe oder Acylgruppen sowie weiterhin in Form der Methylether und als Phosphatester, vorliegen können,A particularly diverse and interesting group of cosmetic active ingredients are polyhydroxy compounds. The use according to the invention of polyhydroxy compounds as an active ingredient with the other components according to the invention can therefore be particularly preferred. For the purposes of the invention, polyhydroxy compounds are understood to mean all substances which meet the definition in Römpp 's Lexikon der Chemie, Version 2.0 of the CD-ROM edition of 1999, published by Georg Thieme. Accordingly, polyhydroxy compounds are understood to mean organic compounds with at least two hydroxyl groups. For the purposes of the present invention, this includes in particular: Polyols with at least two hydroxyl groups and with a carbon chain of 2 to 30 carbon atoms such as trimethylolpropane, ethoxylates and / or propoxylates with 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and or propylene oxide of the aforementioned polyols, carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugars and their salts, especially monosaccharides, Disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and also protected by customary -OH - and -NH - protective groups, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and further- in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester, aminodeoxy sugar, deoxy sugar, thio sugar, these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and protected by customary and known in the literature -OH - and -NH - protective groups, such as for example the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups They can also be present in the form of methyl ethers and as phosphate esters. Preferred among these are monosaccharides with 3 to 8 carbon atoms, such as, for example, trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, these also being in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary OH and NH protecting groups known in the literature, such as, for example, the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and also in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester,
Weiterhin sind bevorzugt Oligosaccharide mit bis zu 50 Monomereinheiten, wobei diese auch in Form von Aldosen, Ketosen und/oder Lactosen sowie geschützt durch übliche und in der Literatur bekannte -OH - und -NH - Schutzgruppen, wie beispielsweise die Triflatgruppe, die Trimethylsilylgruppe oder Acylgruppen sowie weiterhin in Form der Methylether und als Phosphatester, vorliegen können. Ganz besonders bevorzugte Polyole der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Polyole mit 2 bis 12 C-Atomen im Molekülgerüst. Diese Polyole können geradkettig, verzweigt, cyclisch und/oder ungesättigt sein. Die Hydroxygruppen sind dabei ganz besonders bevorzugt endständig benachbart oder endständig durch den Rest der Kette voneinander getrennt. Als Beispiele für diese Polyole seien genannt: Glykol, Polyethylenglykol bis zu einem Molgewicht bis zu 1000 Dalton, Neopentylglykol, Partialglycerinether mit einem Molgewicht bis zu 1000 Dalton, 1,2-Propandiol, 1 ,3-Propandiol, Glycerin, 1 ,2-Butandiol, 1 ,3-Butandiol, 1 ,4- Butandiol, 1,2,3-Butantriol, 1 ,2,4-Butantriol, Pentandiole, beispielsweise 1 ,2- Pentandiol, 1 ,5-Pentandiol, Hexandiole, 1 ,2-Hexandiol, 1 ,6-Hexandiol, 1 ,2,6- Hexantriol, 1 ,4-cyclo-Hexandiol, 1 ,2-cyclo-Hexandiol, Heptandiole, 1 ,2- Heptandiol, 1 ,7-Heptandiol, Oktandiole, 1 ,2-Oktandiol, 1 ,8-Oktandiol, 2-Ethyl-1 ,3- hexandiol, Octadienole, Decadienole, Dodekandiole, 1 ,2-Dodekandiol, 1,12- Dodekandiol, 1 ,12-Dodekandiol mit 10 Mol EO, Dodecadienole.Also preferred are oligosaccharides with up to 50 monomer units, these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary OH and NH protecting groups known in the literature, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups as well as in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester. Very particularly preferred polyols of the present invention are polyols having 2 to 12 carbon atoms in the molecular structure. These polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or unsaturated. The hydroxyl groups are very particularly preferably adjacent at the end or separated from one another by the rest of the chain. Examples of these polyols are: glycol, polyethylene glycol up to a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, neopentyl glycol, partial glycerol ether with a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butanediol , 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, pentanediols, for example 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1,2- Hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 4-cyclo-hexanediol, 1, 2-cyclo-hexanediol, heptanediols, 1, 2-heptanediol, 1, 7-heptanediol, octanediols, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, octadienols, decadienols, dodecanediols, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1,12-dodecanediol, 1, 12-dodecanediol with 10 moles of EO, dodecadienols.
Weiterhin beispielhaft für die erfindungsgemäßen Polyole seien erwähnt Sorbit, Inosit, Mannit, Tetrite, Pentite, Hexite, Threit, Erythrit, Adonit, Arabit, Xylit, Dulcit, Erythrose, Threose, Arabinose, Ribose, Xylose, Lyxose, Glucose, Galactose, Mannose, Allose, Altrose, Gulose, Idose, Talose, Fructose, Sorbose, Psicose, Tegatose, Desoxyribose, Glucosamin, Galaktosamin, Rhamnose, Digitoxose, Thioglucose, Saccharose, Lactose, Trehalose, Maltose, Cellobiose, Melibiose, Gestiobiose, Rutinose, Raffinose sowie Cellotriose. Weiterhin sei auf die einschlägige Fachliteratur wie beispielsweise Beyer-Walter, Lehrbuch der organischen Chemie, S. Hirzel Verlag Stuttgart, 19. Auflage, Abschnitt III, Seiten 393 und folgende verwiesen.Sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrites, pentites, hexites, threitols, erythritol, adonites, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose are further examples of the polyols according to the invention. Allose, old rose, gulose, idose, talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose, melibiose, gestiobiose, rutinotriose, as well as cellulose. Furthermore, reference is made to the relevant specialist literature, such as Beyer-Walter, Textbook of Organic Chemistry, S. Hirzel Verlag Stuttgart, 19th Edition, Section III, pages 393 and the following.
Selbstverständlich umfaßt die erfindungsgemäße Lehre alle isomeren Formen, wie eis - trans - Isomere, Diastereomere, Epimere, Anomere und chirale Isomere. Erfindungsgemäß ist es auch möglich, eine Mischung aus mehreren Polyolen (B) einzusetzen.Of course, the teaching according to the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as eis-trans isomers, diastereomers, epimers, anomers and chiral isomers. According to the invention, it is also possible to use a mixture of several polyols (B).
Die erfindungsgemäßen Polyole (B) sind in den Mitteln in Konzentrationen von 0,01 Gew.% bis zu 20 Gew.%, vorzugsweise von .0,05 Gew.% bis zu 15 Gew.% und ganz besonders bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 Gew.% bis zu 10 Gew.% enthalten.The polyols (B) according to the invention are in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from .0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0, 1% by weight contain up to 10% by weight.
Der Verbraucher mag bei der Wahrnehmung der Zubereitungen, insbesondere hervorgerufen durch eine ästethische Verpackung, gegebenenfalls in. Verbindung mit aromatischen Duftnoten, die erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung mit einem Genußmittel in Verbindung bringen. Durch diese Assoziation kann, insbesondere bei Kindern, eine orale Aufnahme bzw. ein Herunterschlucken der Zusammensetzung prinzipiell nicht gänzlich, ausgeschlossen werden. In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten daher die erfindungsgemäßenZusammensetzungen einen Bitterstoff, um ein Herunterschlucken bzw. eine akzidentielle Ingestion zu verhindern. Dabei sind erfindungsgemäß Bitterstoffe bevorzugt, die in Wasser bei 20 °C zu mindestens 5 g/l löslich sind.When the preparations are perceived, in particular as a result of aesthetic packaging, possibly in conjunction with aromatic fragrance notes, the consumer may associate the composition according to the invention with a stimulant. This association, in particular in children, does not entirely rule out oral intake or swallowing of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention therefore contain a bitter substance in order to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion. Bitter substances are preferred according to the invention which are soluble in water at 20 ° C. to at least 5 g / l.
Hinsichtlich einer unerwünschten Wechselwirkung mit gegebenenfalls in der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung enthaltenen Duft-Komponenten, insbesondere einer Veränderung der vom Verbraucher wahrgenommenen Duftnote, haben die ionogenen Bitterstoffe sich den nichtionogenen als überlegen erwiesen, lonogene Bitterstoffe, bevorzugt bestehend aus organischem(n) Kation(en) und organischem(n) Anion(en), sind daher für die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen bevorzugt.With regard to an undesirable interaction with fragrance components that may be present in the composition according to the invention, in particular a change in the fragrance note perceived by the consumer, the ionogenic bitter substances have proven to be superior to the nonionic, ionogenic bitter substances, preferably consisting of organic cation (s) and organic anion (s) are therefore preferred for the preparations according to the invention.
Erfindungsgemäß hervorragend geeignet als Bitterstoffe sind quartäre Ammoniumverbindungen, die sowohl im Kation als auch im Anion eine aromatische Gruppe enthalten. Eine solche Verbindung ist das kommerziell z.B. unter den Warenzeichen Bitrex® und Indige-stin® erhältliche Benzyldiethyl((2,6- Xylylcarbamoyl)methyl)ammoniumbenzoat. Diese Verbindung ist auch unter der Bezeichnung Denatonium Benzoate bekannt.Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are particularly suitable as bitter substances. Such a connection is commercially, for example Benzyldiethyl ((2,6-xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate available under the trademarks Bitrex ® and Indige-stin ® . This compound is also known as Denatonium Benzoate.
Der Bitterstoff ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Formkörpern in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf den Formkörper, enthalten. Besonders bevorzugt sind Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,05 Gew.-%.The bitter substance is present in the shaped bodies according to the invention in amounts of 0.0005 to 0.1% by weight, based on the shaped body. Quantities of 0.001 to 0.05% by weight are particularly preferred.
Neben den bereits oben genannten bevorzugten Komponenten können diese Zubereitungen prinzipiell alle weiteren, dem Fachmann für solche kosmetischen Mittel bekannten Komponenten enthalten. Hierunter fallen beispielsweise Feuchthaltemittel; Parfümöle in einer Menge von 0,1 bis 0,5 Gewichtsprozent; Trübungsmittel, wie zum Beispiel Ethylenglykoldistearat, in einer Menge von etwa 0,2 bis 5,0 Gewichtsprozent; Perlglanzmittel, wie zum Beispiel ein Gemisch aus Fettsäuremonoalkylolamid und Ethylenglykoldistearat, in einer Menge von etwa 1 ,0 bis 10 Gewichtsprozent; bakterizide und fungizide Wirkstoffe wie zum Beispiel 2, 4,4-Trichlor-2-hydroxydiphenylether oder Methylchlorisothiazolion, in einer Menge von 0,01 bis 1 ,0 Gewichtsprozent; Puffersubstanzen, wie beispielsweise Natriumeitrat oder Natriumphosphat, in einer Menge von 0,1 bis 1,0 Gewichtsprozent; Anfärbestoffe, wie zum Beispiel Fluorescein Natriumsalz, in einer Menge von etwa 0,1 bis 1 ,0 Gewichtsprozent; physiologisch verträgliche Silikonderivate, wie zum Beispiel flüchtige oder nichtflüchtige Silikonöle oder hochmolekulare Siloxanpolymere in einer Menge von 0,05 bis 20 Gew.%; Antioxidantien, Radikalfänger, Antischuppenwirkstoffe, in einer Menge von etwa 0,01 -bis 2 Gew.%; direktziehende Haarfarbstoffe, Haarfarbstoffe, die oxidativ entwickelt werden, Oxidationsmittel, Reduktionsmittel, Glanzgeber, Weichmacher, Kämmbarkeitsverbesserer, rückfettende Agenzien und Entschäumer.In addition to the preferred components already mentioned above, these preparations can in principle contain all further components known to those skilled in the art for such cosmetic products. This includes, for example, humectants; Perfume oils in an amount of 0.1 to 0.5 percent by weight; Opacifiers such as ethylene glycol distearate in an amount of about 0.2 to 5.0 percent by weight; Pearlescent agents, such as a mixture of fatty acid monoalkylolamide and ethylene glycol distearate, in an amount of about 1.0 to 10 percent by weight; bactericidal and fungicidal active ingredients, for example 2,4,4-trichloro-2-hydroxydiphenyl ether or methylchloroisothiazole ion, in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0 percent by weight; Buffer substances, such as sodium citrate or sodium phosphate, in an amount of 0.1 to 1.0 percent by weight; Stains such as fluorescein sodium salt in an amount of about 0.1 to 1.0 percent by weight; physiologically compatible silicone derivatives, such as volatile or non-volatile silicone oils or high molecular weight siloxane polymers in an amount of 0.05 to 20% by weight; Antioxidants, radical scavengers, antidandruff agents, in an amount of about 0.01 to 2% by weight; direct hair dyes, hair dyes that are developed oxidatively, oxidizing agents, reducing agents, gloss agents, plasticizers, combability improvers, moisturizing agents and defoamers.
Weitere Wirk-, Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffe sind beispielsweise nichtionische Polymere wie beispielsweise Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example non-ionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate
Copolymere, Polyvinyl pyrrolidon und Vinylpyrroϊidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere und Polysiloxane,Copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotke'rnmehl, Leinsamengummen,Thickening agents such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums,
Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z. B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose undDextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and
Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose,Carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose,
Amylopektin und Dextrine, Tone wie z. B. Bentonit oder vollsynthetischeAmylopectin and dextrins, clays such as e.g. B. bentonite or fully synthetic
Hydrokolloide wie'z. B. Polyvinylalkohol, haarkonditionierende Verbindungen wie Phospholipide,- beispielsweiseHydrocolloids such as B. polyvinyl alcohol, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, - for example
Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecitin und Kephaline, sowie Silikonöle,Soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephaline, as well as silicone oils,
Parfümöle, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,Perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,
Lösungsmittel und -Vermittler wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol,Solvents and intermediates such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol,
Propylenglykol, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol, symmetrische und unsymmetrische, lineare und verzweigte Dialkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n- undecylether und Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n- decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n- Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n- octylether, Fettalkohole, insbesondere lineare und/oder gesättigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, Monoester von C8 bis C30 - Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 6 bis 24 C-Atomen, faserstrukturverbessemde Wirkstoffe, insbesondere Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide, wie beispielsweise Glucose, Galactose, Fructose, Fruchtzucker und Lactose, konditionierende Wirkstoffe wie Paraffinöle, pflanzliche Öle, z. B. Sonnenblumenöl, Orangenöl, Mandelöl, Weizenkeimöl und Pfirsichkernöl sowie - Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecithin und Kephaline,.Propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, symmetrical and asymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether, fatty alcohols , in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 C atoms, monoesters of C8 to C30 - fatty acids with alcohols with 6 to 24 C atoms, active ingredients that improve fiber structure, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as glucose, galactose , Fructose, fructose and lactose, conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, e.g. B. sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach seed oil as well - Phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins.
- quaternierte Amine wie Methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium-me- thosulfat,quaternized amines such as methyl 1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
- Entschäumer wie Silikone,- defoamers like silicones,
- Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,Dyes for coloring the agent,
- Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,- anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazol,
- Wirkstoffe wie Allantoin und Bisabolol,- active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol,
- Cholesterin,- cholesterol,
- Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,- consistency agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
- Fette und Wachse wie Walrat, Bienenwachs, Montanwachs und Paraffine,- fats and waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,
- Fettsäurealkanolamide,- fatty acid alkanolamides,
- Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, ß-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
- Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,Swelling and penetration substances such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
- Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolyfnere- opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
- Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate,
- Pigmente,- pigments,
- Reduktionsmittel wie z. B. Thioglykolsäure und deren Derivate, Thio- milchsäure, Cysteamin, Thioäpfelsäure und α-Mercaptoethansulfonsäure,- Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thio malic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
- Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N2O, Dimethylether, CO2 und Luft,Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
- Antioxidantien.- antioxidants.
Bezüglich weiterer fakultativer Komponenten sowie die eingesetzten Mengen dieser Komponenten wird ausdrücklich auf die dem Fachmann bekannten einschlägigen Handbücher, z. B. die oben genannte Monographie von K. H. Schrader verwiesen.With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, e.g. B. referred to the above monograph by K. H. Schrader.
Das erfindungsgemäße Mittel wird bevorzugt in einem wäßrigen, einem alkoholischen oder in einem wäßrigalkoholischen Medium mit vorzugsweise mindestens 10 Gewichtsprozent Wasser konfektioniert. Als Alkohole können insbesondere die für kosmetische Zwecke üblicherweise verwendeten niederen Alkohole mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen wie zum Beispiel Ethanol und Isopropanol enthalten sein. Das erfindungsgemäße Mittel kann in einem pH-Bereich von 2 bis 11 vorliegen. Besonders bevorzugt ist der pH-Bereich zwischen 2 und 8The agent according to the invention is preferably made up in an aqueous, an alcoholic or in an aqueous alcoholic medium with preferably at least 10 percent by weight of water. In particular, the lower alcohols with 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as ethanol and isopropanol, can be used as alcohols be included. The agent according to the invention can be present in a pH range from 2 to 11. The pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred
Als zusätzliche Co-Solventien können organische Lösungsmittel oder einOrganic solvents or a can be used as additional co-solvents
Gemisch aus Lösungsmitteln mit einem Siedepunkt unter 400°C in einer Menge von 0,1 ' bis 15 Gewichtsprozent bevorzugt von '1 bis 10 Gewichtsprozent enthalten sein. Besonders geeignet als zusätzliche Co-Solventien sind unverzweigte oder verzweigte Kohlenwasserstoffe wie Pentan, Hexan, Isopentan und cyclische Kohlenwasserstoffe wie Cyclopentan und Cyclohexan. Weitere, besonders bevorzugte wasserlösliche Lösungsmittel sind Glycerin, Ethylenglykol und Propylenglykol ih einer Menge bis 30 Gewichtsprozent.Mixture of solvents with a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0.1 'to 15 weight percent, preferably from ' 1 to 10 weight percent. Unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane are particularly suitable as additional co-solvents. Other particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 percent by weight.
Das erfindungsgemäße Mittel kann in verschiedenen Applikationsformen Anwendung finden, wie beispielsweise als Lotion, als Non-Aerosol Sprühlotion, welches mittels einer mechanischen Vorrichtung zum Versprühen zum Einsatz kommt, als Aerosol-Schaum oder als Non-Aerosol Schaum, welcher in Kombination mit einer geeigneten mechanischen Vorrichtung zum Verschäumen der Zusammensetzung vorliegt. Auch ein Einsatz in Form einer mit einem üblichen Verdicker verdickten Lotion ist möglich.The agent according to the invention can be used in various application forms, for example as a lotion, as a non-aerosol spray lotion, which is used by means of a mechanical device for spraying, as an aerosol foam or as a non-aerosol foam, which in combination with a suitable mechanical Device for foaming the composition is present. Use in the form of a lotion thickened with a conventional thickener is also possible.
Wenn das erfindungsgemäße Mittel in Form einer festigenden Haarlotion vorliegt, so liegt es als nichtviskose Lösung, Dispersion oder Emulsion mit einem Gehalt an mindestens 10 Gewichtsprozent, vorzugsweise 20 bis 95 Gewichtsprozent eines kosmetisch verträglichen Alkohols vor. Als Alkohole können insbesondere die für kosmetische Zwecke üblicherweise verwendeten niederen Alkohole mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen wie zum Beispiel Ethanol und Isopropanol verwendet werden. Die erfindungsgemäße Lotion wird in einer Portionsflasche abgepackt und kann aus dieser direkt auf das Haar aufgetragen werden. Zur Erzielung eines Volumeneffektes direkt vom Haaransatz an kann die Verpackung mit einem Nozzel ausgerüstet sein, mittels welchem ein Auftragen direkt auf dem Haaransatz möglich ist. Eine besonders bevorzugte Applikationsform ist eine Non-Aerosol Sprühlotion. Hierbei wird das erfindungsgemäße Mittel mit Hilfe einer geeigneten mechanisch betriebenen Sprühvorrichtung versprüht. Unter mechanischenIf the agent according to the invention is in the form of a setting hair lotion, it is in the form of a non-viscous solution, dispersion or emulsion containing at least 10% by weight, preferably 20 to 95% by weight, of a cosmetically acceptable alcohol. In particular, the lower alcohols with 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as ethanol and isopropanol, can be used as alcohols. The lotion according to the invention is packaged in a portion bottle and can be applied directly to the hair from it. In order to achieve a volume effect directly from the hairline, the packaging can be equipped with a nozzle, by means of which it can be applied directly to the hairline. A particularly preferred form of application is a non-aerosol spray lotion. Here, the agent according to the invention is sprayed with the aid of a suitable mechanically operated spraying device. Under mechanical
Sprühvorrichtungen sind solche Vorrichtungen zu verstehen, welche das Versprühen einer Flüssigkeit ohne Verwendung eines Treibmittels ermöglichen. Als geeignete mechanische Sprühvorrichtung kann beispielsweise eine Sprühpumpe oder ein mit einem Sprühventil versehener elastischer Behälter, in dem das erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel unter Druck abgefüllt wird, wobei sich der elastische Behälter ausdehnt und aus dem das Mittel infolge derSpraying devices are to be understood as those devices which make it possible to spray a liquid without using a propellant. A suitable mechanical spraying device can be, for example, a spray pump or an elastic container provided with a spray valve, in which the cosmetic agent according to the invention is filled under pressure, the elastic container expanding and from which the agent as a result of the
Kontraktion des elastischen Behälters bei Öffnen des Sprühventils kontinuierlich abgegeben wird, verwendet werden.Contraction of the elastic container is continuously released when the spray valve is opened.
Wenn das erfindungsgemäße Mittel in Form eines festigenden Haarschaumes (Mousse) vorliegt, so enthält es mindestens eine für diesen Zweck bekannte, übliche schaumgebende Substanz. Das Mittel wird mit oder ohne Hilfe von Treibgasen oder chemischen Treibmitteln verschäumt und als Schaum in das Haar eingearbeitet und ohne Ausspülen im Haar belassen. Ein erfindungsgemäßer Haarschaum weist als zusätzliche Komponente ein chemisches Treibmittel und/oder eine mechanische Vorrichtung zum Verschäumen der Zusammensetzung auf. Unter mechanischen Schäumvorrichtungen sind solche Vorrichtungen zu verstehen, welche das Verschäumen einer Flüssigkeit mit oder ohne Verwendung eines Treibmittels ermöglichen. Als geeignete mechanische Schäumvorrichtung kann beispielsweise ein handelsüblicher Pumpschäumer oder ein Aerosolschaumkopf verwendet werden.If the agent according to the invention is in the form of a setting hair foam (mousse), it contains at least one customary foaming substance known for this purpose. The agent is foamed with or without the help of propellant gases or chemical propellants and incorporated into the hair as a foam and left in the hair without rinsing. A hair foam according to the invention has a chemical blowing agent and / or a mechanical device for foaming the composition as an additional component. Mechanical foaming devices are to be understood as devices which allow the foaming of a liquid with or without the use of a blowing agent. A commercially available pump foamer or an aerosol foam head, for example, can be used as a suitable mechanical foaming device.
In einer besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform liegt das erfindungsgemäße Mittel in Form einer wäßrigen, alkoholischen oder wäßrig-alkoholischen NonAerosol Sprühlotion in Kombination mit einer geeigneten mechanischen Vorrichtung zum Versprühen oder in Form einer wäßrigen, alkoholischen oder wäßrig-alkoholischen Lotion vor mit einem Gehalt an: (A) mindestens 0,01 Gew.% mindestens eines Terpolymeren aus Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylcaprolactam und einem Acrylatmonomer der Formel (A-l), (B) mindestens 0,01 Gew.% mindestens eines haarpflegenden Stoffes ausgewählt aus einer - . der Gruppen der - • natürlichen und synthetischen Fettkörper (B1) oder - ausgewählter nicht-ionischer Tenside (B2) oder einer Mischung aus jeweils mindestens einem Stoff ausgewählt aus jeweils einer dieser Gruppen und (C) mindestens einer kationaktiven Verbindung. wobei die Mengenverhältnisse aller Komponenten vorzugsweise so eingestellt sind, daß eine klare Lösung resultiert.In a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic non-aerosol spray lotion in combination with a suitable mechanical device for spraying or in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic lotion containing: (A) at least 0.01% by weight of at least one terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and an acrylate monomer of the formula (Al), (B) at least 0.01% by weight of at least one hair care substance selected from a -. the groups of - • natural and synthetic fat bodies (B1) or - selected non-ionic surfactants (B2) or a mixture of at least one substance selected from each of these groups and (C) at least one cation-active compound. the proportions of all components are preferably set so that a clear solution results.
Das erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel wird angewendet, indem es in einer zur Erzielung des Volumeneffektes ausreichenden Menge auf feuchtes, handtuchtrockenes Haar aufgetragen wird. Anschließend kann die Frisur in üblicher weise geformt werden bzw. können die Haare eingelegt und zum Schluß trocken gefönt werden. Es ist aber auch möglich, zum Auffrischen des Volumeneffektes das Mittel direkt auf trockenem Haar anzuwenden. The cosmetic agent according to the invention is applied by applying it in an amount sufficient to achieve the volume effect on damp, towel-dried hair. Then the hairstyle can be shaped in the usual way or the hair can be inserted and finally blow-dried. But it is also possible to apply the product directly to dry hair to refresh the volume effect.
BeispieleExamples
Alle Mengenangaben sind, soweit nicht anders vermerkt, GewichtsteileUnless otherwise noted, all quantities are parts by weight
1. erfindungsgemäßer Festiger1. Fixer according to the invention
Ethanol 30,0%Ethanol 30.0%
Panthenol 0,3%Panthenol 0.3%
Uvinul MS 40 0,1%Uvinul MS 40 0.1%
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0,5%PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.5%
Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid 0,5%Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.5%
Glyceryl Oleate 0,2%Glyceryl oleate 0.2%
Copolymer VC 713 10,0%VC 713 copolymer 10.0%
Surfadone LP-300 0,1 %Surfadone LP-300 0.1%
Weinsäure 0,05%Tartaric acid 0.05%
Na-Salz der Iminodibernsteinsäure 0,1%Na salt of iminodisuccinic acid 0.1%
Wasser, Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel ad 100Water, perfume, preservative ad 100
Mit dieser Rezeptur wurde im Vergleich zu einer Wasserwelle (reines Wasser) und zu einem Festiger des Marktes (Wellaflex 24 h Volumen) die Bestimmung der Curl Retention durchgeführt.This formula was used to determine curl retention compared to a water wave (pure water) and a market setting (Wellaflex 24 h volume).
Hierzu werden Haarsträhnen mit einer Länge von 0,21 m und einem Gewicht von etwa 3 g für 30 s in den jeweiligen Festiger vollständig getaucht. Der Überschuß des Festigers wird durch Abstreifen zwischen zwei Fingern entfernt. Daß die aufgenommenen Mengen an Festiger jeweils ca. 1 g betragen, wird durchFor this purpose, strands of hair with a length of 0.21 m and a weight of about 3 g are completely immersed in the respective setting agent for 30 s. The excess of the setting agent is removed by wiping between two fingers. The fact that the amounts of fixer ingested are each about 1 g
Wiegen der nassen Haarsträhne überprüft. Die Haarsträhne wird auf einen Wickler von 12 mm gewickelt und über Nacht bei 65 - 70°C getrocknet. Nun werden die getrockneten Haarsträhnen bei 25°C, und 80 % relativer Luftfeuchte in einer Klimakammer frei aufgehängt und die Längenausdehnung der Strähnen in Abhängigkeit von der Zeit gemessen. Die Ergebnisse, über einen Zeitraum von 24 h sind in' Tabelle 1 aufgeführt. Die angegebenen Werte sind die Mittelwerte aus jeweils 4 Einzelmessungen.Checked weighing of the wet strand of hair. The strand of hair is on one Winder of 12 mm wound and dried overnight at 65 - 70 ° C. Now the dried strands of hair are hung at 25 ° C and 80% relative humidity in a climatic chamber and the length of the strands is measured as a function of time. The results over a period of 24 are shown in 'Table 1 hr. The stated values are the mean values from 4 individual measurements each.
Tabelle 1 : Ergebnis des Curl Retention Versuches:Table 1: Result of the curl retention test:
Weiterhin zeigt sich im Halbseitentest für den erfindungsgemäßen Festiger eine bessere Naßkämmbarkeit trotz eines ausgezeichneten Volumeneffektes und einer hervorragenden Frisierbarkeit.Furthermore, in the half-side test for the setting agent according to the invention, better wet combability was shown, despite an excellent volume effect and excellent stylability.
2. Schaumhaarfestiger 2A 2B Polyquatemium-11 1 ,8 % Vinylcaprolactam/VP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate3,0 % 2,5 Copolymer2. Foam hair fixer 2A 2B Polyquatemium-11 1.8% vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate 3.0% 2.5 copolymer
Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid 0,1 % 0,1 %Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.1% 0.1%
Coco Glucoside 0,6 % 0,6 %Coco Glucoside 0.6% 0.6%
Glyceryl Oleate 0,1 % 0,1 %Glyceryl oleate 0.1% 0.1%
Myristyl Myristate 0,1 % 0,1 %Myristyl Myristate 0.1% 0.1%
Caprylylpyrrolidon 0,05% 0,02 %Caprylyl pyrrolidone 0.05% 0.02%
Ethanol 10 % 10 %Ethanol 10% 10%
Wasser, Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel Ad 100 Ad 100Water, perfume, preservative Ad 100 Ad 100
3. Pump-Sprühlotionen 3A 3B3. Pump spray lotions 3A 3B
PVP/VA Copolymer - 2,5 %PVP / VA copolymer - 2.5%
Vinylcaprolactam/VP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate 5,0 % 2,0 % CopolymerVinylcaprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate 5.0% 2.0% copolymer
Behenyltrimethylammoniumchlorid 0,2 % 0,2 gBehenyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.2% 0.2 g
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0,2 % 0,2 gPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.2% 0.2 g
Glyceryl Oleate 0,25 % 0,25 gGlyceryl oleate 0.25% 0.25 g
Caprylylpyrrolidon 0,1 % 0,1 %Caprylyl pyrrolidone 0.1% 0.1%
PEG-75 Lanolin 0,2 % -PEG-75 lanolin 0.2% -
Ethanol 25 % 25 %Ethanol 25% 25%
Wasser, Konservierung, Parfüm Ad 100 Ad 100 4. Pump-SchaumfestigerWater, preservation, perfume Ad 100 Ad 100 4. Pump foam fixer
Polyvinylpyrrolidon (K80) - - 1 ,4 %Polyvinylpyrrolidone (K80) - - 1.4%
VinylcaprolactamΛ P/Dimethylaminoethyl 2,5 % 3,5 % 7,0 %VinylcaprolactamΛ P / Dimethylaminoethyl 2.5% 3.5% 7.0%
Methacrylate CopolymerMethacrylate copolymer
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine 0,5 % 0,5 % 0,5 %Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine 0.5% 0.5% 0.5%
Behentrimoniumchlorid 0,25 % 0,25 % 0,25 %Behentrimonium chloride 0.25% 0.25% 0.25%
Betain 0,1 % 0,1 % 0,1 %Betaine 0.1% 0.1% 0.1%
Zitronensäure 0,1 % 0,1 % 0,1 % Laurylpyrrolidon 0,05 % 0,1 % 0,7 % Dicaprolylcarbonat 0,1 % 0,1 % 0,1 %Citric acid 0.1% 0.1% 0.1% lauryl pyrrolidone 0.05% 0.1% 0.7% Dicaprolyl carbonate 0.1% 0.1% 0.1%
Ethanol •2,5 % 2,5 % 2,5 %Ethanol • 2.5% 2.5% 2.5%
Wasser, Konservierung, Parfüm ,Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100Water, preservation, perfume, Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100
5. Aerosol-Schaumfestiger5. Aerosol foam fixer
Vinylcaprolactam/VP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate 5,0 % CopolymerVinylcaprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate 5.0% copolymer
Polyquatemium-11 0,5 %Polyquatium-11 0.5%
Betain 0,25 %Betaine 0.25%
PEG 25 PABA • 0,5 %PEG 25 PABA • 0.5%
Cetrimoniumchlorid ■ 0,1 % .Cetrimonium chloride ■ 0.1%.
Laurylpyrrolidon 0,25 %Laurylpyrrolidone 0.25%
Jojobaöl 0,15 %Jojoba oil 0.15%
Ethanol 10,0 %Ethanol 10.0%
Wasser Ad 100Water ad 100
Die Wirkstoffmischung wurde im Verhältnis 95:5 mit Propan/Butan 5.0 als Treibmittel in einer Aerosoldose mit Schaumventil abgefüllt.The mixture of active ingredients was filled in a ratio of 95: 5 with propane / butane 5.0 as propellant in an aerosol can with a foam valve.
6. Pump-Sprühlotion6. Pump spray lotion
Vinylcaprolactam/VP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate CopolymerVinylcaprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer
Polyquaternium-16 0,50 %Polyquaternium-16 0.50%
Chitosan 0,50 %Chitosan 0.50%
PVP/VA Copolymer 2,50 %PVP / VA copolymer 2.50%
Weinsäure 0,1 %Tartaric acid 0.1%
Cetrimoniumphosphat 0,2 %Cetrimonium phosphate 0.2%
Laureth-4 0,10 %Laureth-4 0.10%
Laurylpyrrolidon 0,10 %Laurylpyrrolidone 0.10%
Coco Glucoside 0,3 %Coco Glucoside 0.3%
Glyceryl Oleate 0,1 %Glyceryl oleate 0.1%
Ethanol 30 % Wasser Ad 100Ethanol 30% Water ad 100
7. Pump-Schaumfestiger7. Pump foam fixer
Vinylcaprolactam/ VP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate 3,0 %Vinylcaprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate 3.0%
Copolymercopolymer
Polyquaternium-11 0,4 %Polyquaternium-11 0.4%
Cocamidopropylbetain 0,5 %Cocamidopropyl betaine 0.5%
Glyceryl Oleate 0,2 %Glyceryl oleate 0.2%
Zitronensäure 0,1 %Citric acid 0.1%
Betain 0,1 %Betaine 0.1%
Laurylpyrrolidon 0,1 %Laurylpyrrolidone 0.1%
Ethanol 10,0%Ethanol 10.0%
Wasser Ad 100 Water ad 100

Claims

P a t e n t a n s p r ü c h e Patent claims
1. Haarbehandlungsmittel mit einem Gehalt an (A) mindestens 0,01 Gew.% mindestens eines Terpolymeren aus Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylcaprolactam und einem Acrylatmonomer der Formel (A-l), CH2=CR1-COOR2-NR3R4R5, in welcher R1 für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe steht, R2 für eine Methylengruppe oder eine verzweigte oder lineare, gesättigte oder ungesättigte C2 bis C20 Alkylen- oder Alkenylengruppe steht und R3, R4 und R5 unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff, Methyl- oder C2 bis C4 Alkylgruppe (B) mindestens 0,01 Gew.% mindestens eines haarpflegenden Stoffes ausgewählt aus einer der Gruppen der natürlichen und synthetischen Fettkörper (B1 ) oder ausgewählter nicht-ionischer Tenside (B2) oder - einer Mischung aus jeweils mindestens einem Stoff ausgewählt aus jeweils einer dieser Gruppen. 1. Hair treatment composition with a content of (A) at least 0.01% by weight of at least one terpolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl caprolactam and an acrylate monomer of the formula (Al), CH 2 = CR 1 -COOR 2 -NR 3 R 4 R 5 , in which R 1 represents hydrogen or a methyl group, R 2 represents a methylene group or a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated C2 to C20 alkylene or alkenylene group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent hydrogen, methyl or C2 to C4 alkyl group (B) at least 0.01% by weight of at least one hair-care substance selected from one of the groups of natural and synthetic fat bodies (B1) or selected non-ionic surfactants (B2) or - a mixture of at least one substance each from each of these groups.
2. Mittel nach Anspruch 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Monomer der Formel (A-l) ausgewählt ist aus Dialkylaminoalkylacrylat und Dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylat, wobei die Alkylgruppen 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen enthalten. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the monomer of the formula (A-l) is selected from dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, the alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
3. Mittel nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Fettkörper (B1 ) ausgewählt ist aus den Fettsäureglyceriden, den pflanzlichen Ölen oder den Esterölen. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the fat body (B1) is selected from the fatty acid glycerides, the vegetable oils or the ester oils.
4. Mittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das nichtionische Tensid (B2) ausgewählt ist aus den Zuckertensiden und den Pyrrolidon-Derivaten. 4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant (B2) is selected from the sugar surfactants and the pyrrolidone derivatives.
5. Mittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß weiterhin mindestens eine kationaktive Verbindung enthalten ist. 5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it also contains at least one cation-active compound.
6. Mittel nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß es zusätzlich mindestens ein weiteres filmbildendes oder avivierendes Polymer enthält.6. Agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one further film-forming or finishing polymer.
7. Mittel nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, , daß es in Form einer Lotion, einer Non-Aerosol-Sprühlotion in Kombination mit einer mechanischen Vorrichtung zum Versprühen, in Form eines Aerosol- Schaumes in Kombination mit einem Treibmittel oder in Form eines Non- Aerosol-Schaumes in Kombination mit einer mechanischen Vorrichtung zum Verschäumen vorliegt.7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a lotion, a non-aerosol spray lotion in combination with a mechanical device for spraying, in the form of an aerosol foam in combination with a propellant or in the form of a Non-aerosol foam in combination with a mechanical device for foaming is present.
8. Haarbehandlungsmittel nach Anspruch 1 in Form einer wässrigen, alkoholischen oder wässrig-alkoholischen Lotion in Kombination mit einer geeigneten mechanischen Vorrichtung zum Versprühen mit einem Gehalt an (A) mindestens 0,01 Gew.% mindestens eines Terpolymeren aus Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylcaprolactam und einem Acrylatmonomer der Formel (A-l), CH2=CR1-COOR2-NR3R4R5, in welcher R1 für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe steht, R2 für eine Methylengruppe oder eine verzweigte oder lineare, gesättigte oder ungesättigte C2 bis C20 Alkylen- oder Alkenylgruppe steht und R3, R4 und R5 unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff, Methyl- oder C2 bis C4 Alkylgruppe, (B) mindestens 0,01 Gew.% mindestens eines haarpflegenden Stoffes ausgewählt aus einer der Gruppen der natürlichen und synthetischen Fettkörper (B1 ) oder ausgewählter nicht-ionischer Tenside (B2) oder - einer Mischung aus jeweils mindestens einem Stoff ausgewählt aus jeweils einer dieser Gruppen und (C) mindestens eine kationaktive Verbindung. 8. Hair treatment composition according to claim 1 in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic lotion in combination with a suitable mechanical device for spraying containing (A) at least 0.01% by weight of at least one terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and an acrylate monomer of the formula (Al), CH 2 = CR 1 -COOR 2 -NR 3 R 4 R 5 , in which R 1 represents hydrogen or a methyl group, R 2 represents a methylene group or a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated C2 to C20 Alkylene or alkenyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent hydrogen, methyl or C2 to C4 alkyl group, (B) at least 0.01% by weight of at least one hair-care substance selected from one of the groups of natural and synthetic fat (B1) or selected non-ionic surfactants (B2) or - a mixture of at least one substance selected from each of these groups and (C) at least one cation-active compound.
9. Haarbehandlungsmittel nach Anspruch 1 in Form einer wässrigen, alkoholischen oder wässrig-alkoholischen Non-Aerosol Sprühlotion in Kombination mit einer geeigneten mechanischen Vorrichtung zum Versprühen mit einem Gehalt an (A) mindestens 0,01 Gew.% mindestens- eines Terpolymereh aus Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylcaprolactam und . einem Acrylatmonomer der Formel (A-l), CH2=CR1-COOR2-NR3R4R5', in welcher R1 für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe steht, R2 für eine Methylengruppe oder eine verzweigte oder lineare, gesättigte oder ungesättigte C2 bis C20 Alkylen- oder Alkenylgruppe steht und R3, R4 und R5 unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff, Methyl- oder C2 bis C4 Alkylgruppe, ' (B) mindestens 0,01 Gew.% mindestens eines haarpflegenden Stoffes ausgewählt aus einer der Gruppen der natürlichen und synthetischen Fettkörper (B1) oder ausgewählter nicht-ionischer, Tenside (B2) oder - einer Mischung aus jeweils mindestens einem Stoff ausgewählt aus jeweils einer dieser Gruppen und (C) mindestens eine kationaktive Verbindung.9. Hair treatment composition according to claim 1 in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic non-aerosol spray lotion Combination with a suitable mechanical device for spraying containing (A) at least 0.01% by weight of at least one terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and. an acrylate monomer of the formula (Al), CH 2 = CR 1 -COOR 2 -NR 3 R 4 R 5 ', in which R 1 represents hydrogen or a methyl group, R 2 represents a methylene group or a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated C2 to C20 alkylene or alkenyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent hydrogen, methyl or C2 to C4 alkyl group, '(B) at least 0.01% by weight of at least one hair-care substance selected from one of the Groups of natural and synthetic fat bodies (B1) or selected non-ionic surfactants (B2) or - a mixture of at least one substance selected from each of these groups and (C) at least one cation-active compound.
10.Mittel nach einem der Ansprüche 8 oder 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Monomer der Formel (A-l) ausgewählt ist aus Dialkylaminoalkylacrylat und Dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylat, wobei die Alkylgruppen 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen enthalten. . 10.Means according to one of claims 8 or 9, characterized in that the monomer of the formula (A-l) is selected from dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, the alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms. ,
EP04765156A 2003-12-12 2004-09-14 Cosmetic agents providing volume Ceased EP1691772A1 (en)

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DE2003158587 DE10358587A1 (en) 2003-12-12 2003-12-12 Volume-giving cosmetic
PCT/EP2004/010240 WO2005060924A1 (en) 2003-12-12 2004-09-14 Cosmetic agents providing volume

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EP04765156A Ceased EP1691772A1 (en) 2003-12-12 2004-09-14 Cosmetic agents providing volume

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DE102006005451A1 (en) * 2006-02-01 2007-08-02 Beiersdorf Ag Hair styling gel with a long capillary breakup time, contains anionic polymeric thickener, film-forming vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer, conditioning polymer, high-mol. wt. polyethylene glycol and water
US8679464B2 (en) * 2008-04-11 2014-03-25 Kobo Products Inc. Ternary and quaternary wax-resin composites for use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations
DE102009020552A1 (en) * 2009-05-08 2010-11-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Polymer combination of at least two different N-vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylcaprolactam copolymers for glossy cosmetic hair treatment agents
DE102010041267A1 (en) * 2010-09-23 2012-03-29 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Means for temporary deformation of keratinous fibers
US20130164247A1 (en) * 2011-12-23 2013-06-27 Jisook Baek Transparent microemulsions with a film-forming styling polymer and methods for making the same
DE102016223586A1 (en) 2016-11-28 2018-05-30 Clariant International Ltd COPOLYMERS AND THEIR USE IN DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS
DE102016223590A1 (en) 2016-11-28 2018-05-30 Clariant International Ltd COPOLYMER-CONTAINING DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS
DE102016223588A1 (en) 2016-11-28 2018-05-30 Clariant International Ltd COPOLYMERS AND THEIR USE IN DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS
JP2019536781A (en) 2016-11-28 2019-12-19 クラリアント・インターナシヨナル・リミテツド Cosmetic composition containing cationic copolymer

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JPS5849715A (en) * 1981-08-13 1983-03-24 ジ−・エ−・エフ・コ−ポレ−シヨン Hair conditioner containing vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / alkyl acrylate
DE19937386A1 (en) * 1999-08-07 2001-02-15 Wella Ag Volume-giving hair treatment agent
DE19957947C1 (en) * 1999-12-02 2001-08-09 Wella Ag Polymer combination for hair treatment products

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DE10358587A1 (en) 2005-07-07

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