CN103741527A - Method for distressed rapid dyeing of wool sweater - Google Patents
Method for distressed rapid dyeing of wool sweater Download PDFInfo
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- CN103741527A CN103741527A CN201310519935.6A CN201310519935A CN103741527A CN 103741527 A CN103741527 A CN 103741527A CN 201310519935 A CN201310519935 A CN 201310519935A CN 103741527 A CN103741527 A CN 103741527A
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Abstract
The invention relates to a method for distressed rapid dyeing of a wool sweater. The method comprises the following steps: (1) wax-dipping: weighing liquid Evo wax with the amount of 1.05-1.15 times of the wool sweater fabric weight, at the room temperature, soaking the wool sweater in the wax liquid, and repeatedly kneading and pressing until being uniform; and carrying out low temperature drying or natural drying; (2) dyeing: putting the wool sweater fabric after wax-dipping pretreatment and drying into a prepared dyeing bath; heating up to 75-80 DEG C at a speed of 3 DEG C/min, and holding for 5-10 min to achieve dyeing; (3) carrying out color fixation: after dyeing, adding a cationic color-fixing agent for color fixation for 5 min, and then taking out the fabric; (4) cleaning: washing with a non-ionic surfactant for 15 min at the temperature of 70 DEG C; and (5) drying. After the wool sweater is dyed by the rapid dyeing process, a distressed effect of distinct depth levels and uniform overall appearance appears. In addition, compared with a conventional dyeing process, the dyeing time is shortened by 60%-70%, and the color fastness is at the level of 2.5 or above.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of imitative old technology method of woollen sweater, especially relate to the method for the imitative old rapid dyeing of a kind of woollen sweater, belong to dyeing and finishing technique field.
Background technology
Woolen knitting product is particularly suitable for imitative old style.Because the flotation line of knitted fabric is longer, interlacing point is outstanding and eye-catching, after appearance is imitative old, visually has more stereovision, successful.
In COTTON FABRIC, the comparatively ripe imitative old technology method of application has that stone mill is imitative old, imitative old, the bleaching agent of biology enzyme is imitative old etc., these methods all will be by washing stone mill technique, and friction can cause wool fabric pilling, so significant discomfort is closed woollen sweater and cashmere sweater product.
At present, the imitative aging method of some woolen knitting products is disclosed in prior art, for example: the patent of application number 200910186642 relates to a kind of imitative old mist sense shell fabric, by warp thread and weft yarn, is interweaved and is formed, and described warp thread is 50D terylene TRIANGLE PROFILE; Described weft yarn is 50D low elastic polyester filament, and the warp count of described fabric is 230～240 pieces/inch; Described weft count is 90～95 pieces/inch, and its fabric tissue adopts five heddle satin, scribbles mist sense coating on the surface of described fabric.The imitative old sense of this fabric is strong, has overcome feel hardboard, reaches soft abundant effect.Application number: 201210161625 invention relates to a kind of imitative old colouring method of knitting wool fabric, comprising: (1) is placed in dyeing machine by the knitting wool fabric fully deoiling, water inlet, adds pretreating agent, heats up, is incubated, and discharges pretreatment solution, washing; (2) water inlet, then adds cation modifier and glacial acetic acid, and pH value is controlled at 5～7.5, heats up, is incubated, and discharges raffinate, washing; (3) water inlet, room temperature adds levelling agent, and running 5～10min, then adds coating, running 10～20min, then heat up, add color-fixing agent and softener, running 10～20min, then heats up, add glacial acetic acid, running 30-60min, is cooled to 55-60 ℃ of discharge opeing, washing.Also have application number: 201310016536 disclosure of the invention the Fabrics Dyed with Reactive Dyes of the imitative old processing of a kind of process and the method for imitative old processing thereof.It is by fabric in airflow dyeing machine, after reactive dyeing, first wash water 10min, draining, the 15min that dries again, relies on airflow dyeing machine ejection pressure-air allow fabric shuttling movement in airflow dyeing machine with moisture, then passes into ozone, air pressure reaches 0.3～0.5bar, operation 30min, exhaust; Pass into ozone again, air pressure reaches 0.3～0.5bar, operation 30min, exhaust; Pass into ozone again, air pressure reaches 0.3～0.5bar, operation 30min, exhaust, then wash water 6min, draining, then wash recirculated water 6min under 60 ℃ of water temperatures, then draining, remove residue ozone, obtains the Fabrics Dyed with Reactive Dyes through imitative old processing.
But imitative old effect of the prior art is all to realize by long dyeing and post processing, has reduced production efficiency, is unfavorable for industrialized production.In addition, outward appearance shoals or is mist sense, and the imitative old outward appearance of the obvious depth level presenting from the present invention is also different.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to propose one by liquid wax barrier and change traditional dyeing technique, just can realize the imitative old style of woollen sweater with dyes color method, imitative old outward appearance is obvious, and stereovision is strong.Wool fibre common dyes, as REACTIVE DYES and weak acid dye, all can realize the imitative old effect of this decoration method.Compared with conventional dyeing; the invention provides a kind of take rapid dyeing as basis; by wax, as dyestuff barrier, realized the technical scheme of imitative old effect; this scheme has greatly reduced dyeing time and has reduced dyeing energy consumption; also protected better the excellent properties of fiber, the woollen sweater pilling problem of having avoided traditional imitative aging method to cause because of friction.
Outstanding feature of the present invention is that the present invention specifically provides following technical scheme: the method for the imitative old rapid dyeing of woollen sweater, is characterized in that: comprise the steps:
(1) waxdip: take liquid and like cottonrose hibiscus wax, consumption is 1.05～1.15 times of woollen sweater fabric weight, under normal temperature, woollen sweater is soaked to wax liquid, repeatedly rubs pressure, until evenly; Low temperature drying or air dry;
(2) dyeing: by dried waxdip preliminary treatment woollen sweater fabric, drop into the dye bath preparing; The formula (mass fraction) of described dye bath is: REACTIVE DYES or weak acid dye: 2%, and ammonium sulfate (owf): 5%, levelling agent: 3～5% the aqueous solution; Body lotion pH value is 6, and the bath raio of woollen sweater and body lotion is 1:50; With the speed of 3-4 ℃/min, be warmed up to 75～80 ℃, insulation 5～10min realizes dyeing;
(3) fixation: after dyeing, add cationic fixing agent fixation 5min, then fabric is taken out;
(4) clean: with A Bai brother B3%(owf)+non-ionic surface active agent 2%(owf), at 70 ℃ of washing 15min;
(5) dry (80 ℃, more than 15min).
Described REACTIVE DYES and weak acid dye are wool fibre common dyes.Described weak acid dye is the black VL of weak acid (owf).
Described levelling agent is A Bai brother SET.
Described programming rate is 3 ℃/min.
After described fixation, need the B3%(owf with A Bai brother)+relying can even MF2%(owf) clean.Described cationic fixing agent is color-fixing agent CS or Fixative R F, consumption 1.5～2%.
Described normal temperature is 20～25 ℃;
Described low temperature is 25～30 ℃.
The present invention can be on the basis of the existing style of woollen sweater, by rapid dyeing, produced the stratose imitative old effect of the depth, and on dress, can there is imitative old degree in various degree because of the difference of local organization, as screw thread and flat pin (Fig. 4), make whole clothes more be rich in third dimension.Imitate the woollen sweater of old style, enriched the colored type of woollen sweater, improved technology content and the added value of wool product.
The present invention has following advantage:
(1) by resist agent liquid wax, realize fast staining imitative old
By the preliminary treatment of waxing, be formed on the obstruct to dyestuff in dyeing course.Due to skin, wax amount large, and aggregation force is strong, and therefore wax distributes relatively manyly on fabric top layer, so make top layer Dry Sack more shallow after dyeing, bottom is darker, has occurred that similar denim grinds old style, and this is core methed of the present invention.In numerous processes of inventor's research, the imitative old effect of this method is best at present, and operability is the strongest, and reappearance is best.
(2) by levelling agent, realize fast staining imitative old
What the imitative old law of rapid dyeing was pursued is product overall appearance uniformity after dyeing, and the sense that has levels but the dyeing of local slight part is inhomogeneous, so selection molecular weight is larger, some dyestuff of molecular structure relative complex is more suitable for.Must adopt levelling agent, the consumption of levelling agent is also very crucial, and when consumption is few, film clips appear in dyeing, but the too much imitative old effect of consumption is poor.
Formulate rapid dyeing process
Heating rate, insulation point, temperature retention time are crucial.The present invention passes through to improve heating rate and shortens dyeing time, and temperature retention time is shortened, then coordinates pH value, and the particularly necessary levelling agent that adopts has so just caused pollutant to occur dyeing depth level.The present invention 3 ℃/min of speed that is rapidly heated, insulation point is a little more than a melting point of liking cottonrose hibiscus wax.
Woollen sweater rapid dyeing process of the present invention is exactly by choose reasonable dyestuff, auxiliary agent and shorten dyeing time, reduce the processes such as dyeing temperature dyes to woollen sweater, occurs thoroughly not dying, depth level distinctness, overall appearance imitative old effect uniformly after dyeing.Compared with conventional dyeing, its dyeing time can shorten 30%～50%.
The specific embodiment
In order to solve the problems of the technologies described above, technical scheme of the present invention is implemented as follows.
(1) soak and like cottonrose hibiscus wax pretreating process:
Like the explanation of cottonrose hibiscus wax: but like that the imitative old dyeing of cottonrose hibiscus wax is both similar, be different from traditional wax-dyeing process.Traditional batik is on fabric, to need the tissue site that demonstrates decorative pattern to be coated with and to paint by gimmick, and then through dyeing, be coated with and paint position and have the resist printing effect of cerate, cause dyestuff to be difficult to dye, thereby can make fabric manifest required floral designs, can also be before dyeing can crack by the random crimping position of waxing, in dyeing course along with stirring by dyeing and weaving thing, the position that painting is painted with cerate also can crack, dye solution therefore can be in crackle infiltrated fiber, again through dewaxing, washing, operation after the dyeing such as soap boiling and oven dry, can on fabric, leave the ice line of pattern and self-assembling formation.
Like that it is not stamp that the imitative old dyeing of cottonrose hibiscus wax belongs to dyeing category, principle is to adopt wax to make resist agent, the Dry Sack by dyeing.The dyeing temperature of beeswax and paraffin batik is the highest can not exceed 40 ℃, and this is because the softening temperature of common cerate has caused must being controlled at below 40 ℃.The hot property of liking cottonrose hibiscus wax is high, and water soluble is again de-dry after soaking, on fabric, adhere to cerate few, anti-metachromia is better, then carries out exhaust dyeing technique, dyeing temperature is high, cerate is softening to be dissolved, and makes to form the Color that white line and colo(u)r streak interweave, namely imitative old effect, background color is dark, apparent shallow, fabric tissue is closely located wax and is absorbed many, imitative old effective.
Like that cottonrose hibiscus wax is a kind of liquid water-soluble cerate, outward appearance is off-white color, dissolves in cold water, and solid content is about 45%, is weak cation, and while being adjusted to concentration 10%, pH value is about 4, and now, in the time of 20 ℃, viscosity is approximately up to 50mPa.s.
Wax enhancement: take liquid and like cottonrose hibiscus wax, consumption is 1.05～1.15 times of sweater weight.At 20～25 ℃ of normal temperature, sweater is soaked to wax liquid, repeatedly rub pressure, until evenly.For preventing wax liquid migration, must 25～30 ℃ of oven dry of low temperature or air dry.
(2) the imitative old technology of woollen sweater fast staining
By dried waxdip preliminary treatment woollen sweater fabric, drop in the dye bath preparing.
Dye bath formula:
Dyeing heating process curve as shown in Figure 6;
Clean: with A Bai brother B3%+ non-ionic surface active agent (rely can even MF) 2%, at 70 ℃ of washing 15min.
The residual wax rate of imitative old woollen sweater, after gravimetric detemination, is about 6%～8%.Gained master drawing as shown in Figure 1.
(3) colour fastness to rubbing test
This experiment colour fastness to rubbing is tested by GB/T3920-2008 < < textile color stability test colour fastness to rubbing > >, and grades with GB/T251-2008 < < textile color stability test evaluation staining gray scale > >.More satisfactory can the reaching more than 3.5 grades of fastness to wet rubbing of imitative old rear woollen sweater, dry fastness, more than 2.5 grades, substantially can meet coat and wear requirement.The crock fastness weaker acid dyestuff of REACTIVE DYES is high half grade.The imitative old ready-made clothes colorfastness to rubbing test result diagram of woollen sweater fast staining (MF weak acid series dyes) as shown in Figure 3.
Accompanying drawing explanation:
Fig. 1 is for liking the imitative old master drawing (the black VL of weak acid) of cottonrose hibiscus wax low temperature preliminary treatment fast staining;
Fig. 2 is Color comparison diagram;
Fig. 3 is the imitative old ready-made clothes colorfastness to rubbing test result diagram of woollen sweater fast staining (MF weak acid series dyes).
Fig. 4 is ready-made clothes sample drawing of the present invention.
Fig. 5 is the imitative old grading standard graph card table of woollen sweater fast staining of the present invention.
Fig. 6 is dyeing heating process curve.
Specific embodiment 1
(1) woollen sweater rapid dyeing process flow process:
Preliminary treatment → rapid dyeing → fixation → cleaning → the oven dry of waxing
(2) formula and description of the process
1) wax pre-treatment Recipe explanation:
Take liquid and like cottonrose hibiscus wax, consumption is 1.1 times of sweater weight, according to the difference of liking cottonrose hibiscus wax solid content, adjust to some extent.At 25 ℃, sweater is soaked to wax liquid, repeatedly rub pressure with hand, until evenly, dry after paving or 30 ℃ of oven dry.Because be ready-made clothes, can not use padding machine, centrifugal dehydration also easily causes the good skewness of band wax.2) dyeing: by dried waxdip preliminary treatment woollen sweater fabric, drop into the dye bath preparing; The formula (mass fraction) of described dye bath is: REACTIVE DYES or weak acid dye: 2%, and ammonium sulfate (owf): 5%, the aqueous solution of levelling agent A Bai brother SET:4%; Body lotion pH value is 6, and the bath raio of woollen sweater and body lotion is 1:50; At 50 ℃ of insulation 8min, realize dyeing;
3) fixation: after dyeing, be warmed up to 75 ℃ with the speed of 3 ℃/min, add cationic fixing agent fixation 5min, then fabric is taken out;
4) clean: with A Bai brother B3%(owf)+non-ionic surface active agent (rely can even MF) 2%(owf), at 70 ℃ of washing 15min;
5) 80 ℃, dry 15min, get product.
Specific embodiment 2
1) wax: take liquid and like cottonrose hibiscus wax, consumption is 1.15 times of sweater weight, according to the difference of liking cottonrose hibiscus wax solid content, adjust to some extent.Under normal temperature, sweater is soaked to wax liquid, repeatedly rub pressure with hand, until evenly, dry after paving or 20 ℃ of oven dry.Because be ready-made clothes, can not use padding machine, centrifugal dehydration also easily causes the good skewness of band wax.
2) dyeing: by dried waxdip preliminary treatment woollen sweater fabric, drop into the dye bath preparing; The formula (mass fraction) of described dye bath is: REACTIVE DYES or weak acid dye: 2%, and ammonium sulfate (owf): 5%, the aqueous solution of levelling agent A Bai brother SET:5%; Body lotion pH value is 6, and the bath raio of woollen sweater and body lotion is 1:50; At 50 ℃ of insulation 5min, realize dyeing;
3) fixation: after dyeing, be warmed up to 80 ℃ with the speed of 4 ℃/min, add cationic fixing agent fixation 5min, then fabric is taken out;
4) clean: with A Bai brother B3%+ non-ionic surface active agent (rely can even MF) 2%, at 70 ℃ of washing 15min;
5) 80 ℃, dry 20min, get product.
Specific embodiment 3
1) wax: take liquid and like cottonrose hibiscus wax, consumption is 1.05 times of sweater weight, according to the difference of liking cottonrose hibiscus wax solid content, adjust to some extent.At 25 ℃, sweater is soaked to wax liquid, repeatedly rub pressure with hand, until evenly, dry after paving or 30 ℃ of oven dry.Because be ready-made clothes, can not use padding machine, centrifugal dehydration also easily causes the good skewness of band wax.2) dyeing: by dried waxdip preliminary treatment woollen sweater fabric, drop into the dye bath preparing; The formula (mass fraction) of described dye bath is: REACTIVE DYES or weak acid dye: 2%, and ammonium sulfate (owf): 5%, the aqueous solution of levelling agent A Bai brother SET:3%; Body lotion pH value is 6, and the bath raio of woollen sweater and body lotion is 1:50; At 50 ℃ of insulation 10min, realize dyeing;
3) fixation: after dyeing, be warmed up to 75 ℃ with the speed of 3 ℃/min, add cationic fixing agent fixation 5min, then fabric is taken out;
4) clean: with A Bai brother B3%(owf)+non-ionic surface active agent (rely can even MF) 2%(owf), at 70 ℃ of washing 15min;
5) 80 ℃, dry 15min, get product.
The present invention's fabric colour fastness to rubbing after treatment is tested by GB/T3920-2008 < < textile color stability test colour fastness to rubbing > >, and grades with GB/T251-2008 < < textile color stability test evaluation staining gray scale > >.After imitative old by ACID DYES, more satisfactory can the reaching more than 3.5 grades of fastness to wet rubbing of woollen sweater, dry fastness, more than 2.5 grades, can meet coat and wear requirement; The crock fastness weaker acid dyestuff of REACTIVE DYES is high half grade.Experimental study through much amounts proves, to cashmere sweater, imitative old arrangement is also suitable for the method.
Claims (8)
1. a method for the imitative old rapid dyeing of woollen sweater, is characterized in that: comprise the steps:
(1) waxdip: take liquid and like cottonrose hibiscus wax, consumption is 1.05～1.15 times of woollen sweater fabric weight, under normal temperature, woollen sweater is soaked to wax liquid, repeatedly rubs pressure, until evenly; Low temperature drying or air dry;
(2) dyeing: by dried waxdip preliminary treatment woollen sweater fabric, drop into the dye bath preparing; The formula (mass fraction) of described dye bath is: REACTIVE DYES or weak acid dye: 2%, and ammonium sulfate (owf): 5%, levelling agent: 3～5% the aqueous solution; Body lotion pH value is 6, and the bath raio of woollen sweater and body lotion is 1:50; With the speed of 3-4 ℃/min, be warmed up to 75～80 ℃, insulation 5～10min realizes dyeing;
(3) fixation: after dyeing, add cationic fixing agent, fixation 5min, then takes out fabric;
(4) clean: with A Bai brother B3%(owf)+non-ionic surface active agent 2%(owf), at 70 ℃ of washing 15min;
(5) dry.
2. the method for the imitative old rapid dyeing of woollen sweater as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that: described REACTIVE DYES and weak acid dye are wool fibre common dyes.
3. the method for the imitative old rapid dyeing of woollen sweater as claimed in claim 1 or 2, is characterized in that: described weak acid dye is the black VL of weak acid (owf).
4. the method for the imitative old rapid dyeing of woollen sweater as claimed in claim 1 or 2, is characterized in that: described levelling agent is A Bai brother SET.
5. the method for the imitative old rapid dyeing of woollen sweater as claimed in claim 1 or 2, is characterized in that: described programming rate is 3 ℃/min.
6. the method for the imitative old rapid dyeing of woollen sweater as claimed in claim 1 or 2, is characterized in that: after described fixation, need the B3%(owf with A Bai brother)+bad can even MF2%(owf) clean.
7. the method for the imitative old rapid dyeing of woollen sweater as claimed in claim 1 or 2, is characterized in that: described cationic fixing agent is color-fixing agent CS or Fixative R F, consumption 1.5～2%.
8. the method for the imitative old rapid dyeing of woollen sweater as claimed in claim 1 or 2, is characterized in that: described normal temperature is 20～25 ℃; Described low temperature is 25～30 ℃.
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Cited By (10)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN104727166A (en) * | 2015-03-10 | 2015-06-24 | 欧阳佐信 | Dyeing method of iridescence yarns |
| CN105200593A (en) * | 2015-08-25 | 2015-12-30 | 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 | Preparation process of worsted/woolen stretch trouser fabric |
| CN105780535A (en) * | 2016-03-07 | 2016-07-20 | 陕西科技大学 | Wool fabric dyeing process conducted through hydrolytic reactive dye colored microspheres |
| CN106167994A (en) * | 2016-07-29 | 2016-11-30 | 桐乡市濮院毛针织技术服务中心 | Old rapid dyeing process imitated by a kind of woollen sweater |
| CN108625199A (en) * | 2018-04-23 | 2018-10-09 | 嘉兴市锦福缩染有限公司 | The dyeing processing technique of woollen sweater |
| CN109594370A (en) * | 2018-12-06 | 2019-04-09 | 江阴捷豹针织制衣有限公司 | A kind of high-cleanness ozone of ready-made clothes washes old technology |
| CN110820312A (en) * | 2019-10-28 | 2020-02-21 | 南通泰慕士服装有限公司 | One-step forming and distressed dyeing process for knitted fabric |
| CN114960231A (en) * | 2022-06-16 | 2022-08-30 | 浙江圣地欧服饰股份有限公司 | Preparation method of anti-pilling woolen sweater with geometric patterns |
| CN115387136A (en) * | 2022-10-13 | 2022-11-25 | 浙江绍肖印染有限公司 | Low-salt dyeing method and process of cotton fabric by using reactive dye |
| CN115748269A (en) * | 2022-12-01 | 2023-03-07 | 吉林省荣发服装服饰有限公司 | Worn-out processing method of clothes |
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| CN104727166A (en) * | 2015-03-10 | 2015-06-24 | 欧阳佐信 | Dyeing method of iridescence yarns |
| CN105200593A (en) * | 2015-08-25 | 2015-12-30 | 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 | Preparation process of worsted/woolen stretch trouser fabric |
| CN105780535A (en) * | 2016-03-07 | 2016-07-20 | 陕西科技大学 | Wool fabric dyeing process conducted through hydrolytic reactive dye colored microspheres |
| CN105780535B (en) * | 2016-03-07 | 2018-01-30 | 陕西科技大学 | A kind of dyeing of hydrolysed reactive dye color micro-sphere to wool fabric |
| CN106167994A (en) * | 2016-07-29 | 2016-11-30 | 桐乡市濮院毛针织技术服务中心 | Old rapid dyeing process imitated by a kind of woollen sweater |
| CN108625199A (en) * | 2018-04-23 | 2018-10-09 | 嘉兴市锦福缩染有限公司 | The dyeing processing technique of woollen sweater |
| CN109594370A (en) * | 2018-12-06 | 2019-04-09 | 江阴捷豹针织制衣有限公司 | A kind of high-cleanness ozone of ready-made clothes washes old technology |
| CN109594370B (en) * | 2018-12-06 | 2021-05-28 | 江阴捷豹针织制衣有限公司 | High-cleanness ozone old washing process for ready-made clothes |
| CN110820312A (en) * | 2019-10-28 | 2020-02-21 | 南通泰慕士服装有限公司 | One-step forming and distressed dyeing process for knitted fabric |
| CN114960231A (en) * | 2022-06-16 | 2022-08-30 | 浙江圣地欧服饰股份有限公司 | Preparation method of anti-pilling woolen sweater with geometric patterns |
| CN115387136A (en) * | 2022-10-13 | 2022-11-25 | 浙江绍肖印染有限公司 | Low-salt dyeing method and process of cotton fabric by using reactive dye |
| CN115748269A (en) * | 2022-12-01 | 2023-03-07 | 吉林省荣发服装服饰有限公司 | Worn-out processing method of clothes |
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