CN102828330B - Production method of all-wool yarn knitted fabric - Google Patents
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Abstract
The invention relates to a production method of all-wool yarn knitted fabric. The method comprises the steps of: preparing wool tops into fabric sequentially by dyeing and re-combing, spinning, weaving, and after treating processes; the dyeing step in the dyeing and re-combing processes comprises the steps of: filling the wool tops into a dye vat, adding water, heating and maintaining the temperature at 35-40 DEG C, adding acetic acid to adjust pH value of dye bath to 4-5, then adding a low temperature fast dyeing assistant and a lanasol dye, and operating for 5-15min; then heating at a speed of 2.0 DEG C/min to 3.0 DEG C/min to 80-90 DEG C, and maintaining the temperature for 30-50min; a compact spun yarn spinning device is adopted in a spun yarn step in the spinning process; a circular knitting machine is adopted in the weaving process; and the after treating process comprises a heat setting step and a flat washing and flat cooking step. The fabric prepared by the production method of all-wool yarn knitted fabric provided by the invention is good in rebound resilience, stable in size and level in fabric face, and the fluffing and pilling phenomena are completely improved.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of weaving techniques of fabric, belong to wool textile technology field.
Background technology
Along with improving constantly of living standard, all woolen knit fabric more and more receives people's concern as a kind of high-grade fabric.All woolen knit fabric is to utilize knitting needle by bending the yarn of full wool lopping the fabric overlapping and form of mutually going here and there, and for the whole fabrication processes of fabric, weaving from spinning to has extremely strict requirement to rear arrangement again, to guarantee high-quality and the high-quality of fabric.But all woolen knit fabric in the market, often owing to having adopted inappropriate weaving techniques, reduces the quality of fabric greatly.Common problem is to adopt mordant dyeing technique, although color and luster is even, COLOR FASTNESS is good, and cost is lower, and dyeing temperature is high, and length consuming time is much to wool damage, and fabric resilience is poor; Adopt in addition inappropriate postfinishing process, can make the out-of-flatness of fabric cloth cover, edge-curl phenomenon is serious, and washing shrinkage is large, easily pilling.
Chinese patent literature CN101942769B(application number is 201010286780.2) a kind of wool rapid dyeing method of mordant dyes disclosed, comprise the following steps: dyeing is prepared, add low temperature rapid dyeing auxiliary agent and dyestuff, be rapidly heated, low temperature dyeing, does not lower the temperature and adds mordant and formic acid, low temperature mordant dyeing, post processing, goes out cylinder.This colouring method low temperature, quick, but adopting mordant dyes to dye need to a point multistep add mordant dyes and mordant, step is comparatively loaded down with trivial details, and high-temperature holding time is long, is still unfavorable for protecting wool.
Summary of the invention
It is good that the technical problem to be solved in the present invention is to provide a kind of fabric resilience, dimensionally stable, and cloth cover is smooth, and pilling phenomenon obtains the production method of the full wool wool yarn knitted fabric comprehensively improving.
In order to solve the problems of the technologies described above, the invention provides a kind of production method of full wool wool yarn knitted fabric, by wool tops successively through bar dye recombing, spin, weave, postfinishing process makes fabric;
The dyeing process that bar dyes in recombing technique is to pack wool tops into dye vat, adds water, and heats up and maintains the temperature at 35 ℃ to 40 ℃, adds acetic acid the pH value of dye bath is adjusted to 4 to 5, then add low temperature rapid dyeing auxiliary agent and Lan Na uniformly dyeing material, running 5min to 15min; Then heat up with the speed of 2.0 ℃/min to 3.0 ℃/min, be warmed up to after 80 ℃ to 90 ℃, keep temperature 30 min to 50min;
Spinning process in spinning process adopts compact spinning spun yarn equipment;
Weaving process adopts circular knitting machine;
Postfinishing process comprises heat-setting process and the flat boiling procedure of open washing; The flat boiling procedure of described open washing is to allow knitted cloth under its flat presentation, carry out braying and crabbing; The setting temperature of described heat-setting process is 140 ℃ to 150 ℃, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 25 m/min to 30m/min, and heat set zone length of field is 12m to 15m; The speed of the flat boiling procedure of described open washing is 25 m/min to 30m/min, and braying region water temperature is 40 ℃ to 45 ℃, and crabbing region water temperature is 55 ℃ to 60 ℃.
In order to guarantee that orchid receives a kind of preferred technical scheme of effect of uniformly dyeing material low temperature rapid dyeing and is: the addition of above-mentioned low temperature rapid dyeing auxiliary agent is 2% to 3% of described wool tops quality; Described low temperature rapid dyeing auxiliary agent is the mixture of the two beta-hydroxyethyl esters of acyclic monocarboxylic acid and fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether, and the mass ratio of the two beta-hydroxyethyl esters of its acyclic monocarboxylic acid and fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether is 2: 8 to 4: 6.The low temperature rapid dyeing auxiliary agent of this proportioning, aims at orchid and receives the design of plain dyeing, and dyeing temperature is low, consuming time short, and the color and luster of dyeing is even, COLOR FASTNESS good.
A kind of preferred technical scheme is: when above-mentioned dyeing process finishes, add 2% to 3% soaping agent of described wool tops quality, keep temperature 15 min to 20min, then spilling water cools to 40 ℃, clean, draining, finally goes out cylinder.Adopt orchid to receive uniformly dyeing material low temperature rapid dyeing process dyeing and finish to add after soaping agent, do not need to regulate again pH value, simplified technological process.
In order to guarantee the quality of fabric, a kind of preferred technical scheme is: above-mentioned is dyed recombing technique is successively through dyeing-after backwashing-silver mixing-grilling-combing-grilling-slivering operation; Above-mentioned spinning process be pass through successively silver mixing-head thick-bis-thick-tri-thick-tetra-thick-end is thick-rove deposit-spun yarn-yarn steaming-baking yarn-from winder-yarn steaming-baking yarn operation.
The present invention has positive effect:
(1) production method of full wool wool yarn knitted fabric of the present invention adopts the orchid of environmental protection to receive uniformly dyeing material in when dyeing, without adding mordant, without repeatedly regulating pH value, guaranteeing under the prerequisite of Color, dyeing is relatively simple, and greatly reduces sewage discharge.This colouring method has also adopted low temperature rapid dyeing auxiliary agent, reduces dyeing temperature to 80 ℃ to 90 ℃, can reduce steam and consume 11%, shortens dyeing time to original 70%, comprehensively saves the energy 15%, has improved labor productivity, meets the requirement that low-carbon (LC) is produced.Orchid receives uniformly dyeing material low temperature rapid dyeing process compared with mordant dyes rapid dyeing process, and staining procedure is less, and the time of soak is shorter, is more conducive to protect wool injury-free, makes fabric keep natural elasticity.
(2) production method of full wool wool yarn knitted fabric of the present invention adopts compact spinning spun yarn equipment to spin, and the wool yarn filoplume of production is few, and bar makes a good job of, any surface finish, and brute force obviously improves, and is conducive to the processing of Sha Hou road, in Spinning process process.In addition, twice yarn steaming technique is also set, wool yarn is had to good styling, can make wool yarns there is good conformality.
(3) production method of full wool wool yarn knitted fabric of the present invention adopts circular knitting machine, all woolen yarn weaving is become to knit fabric by technique more than 36 pins, and fabric selected material is exquisite in workmanship, and steady quality.In addition, in the time of rear arrangement, adopt the flat technique of boiling of rational heat setting process and open washing, can make fabric resilience good, dimensionally stable, cloth cover is smooth, contribute to improve the problem of the phenomenon of pilling and the easy crimping of knit fabric, shrink, improved largely quality and the class of fabric.
The specific embodiment
The concrete steps of the production method of full wool wool yarn knitted fabric of the present invention are as follows:
1, yarn variety design.
Material composition: wool tops 100%; Yarn count: 120S; The twist: 1200T/m.
2, fabric production procedure.
By wool tops successively through bar dye recombing, spin, weave, postfinishing process makes fabric.
A. bar dyes recombing technique.
Complete bar through dyeing-after backwashing-silver mixing-grilling-combing-grilling-slivering operation successively and dye recombing.
When dyeing, first pack wool tops into dye vat, water inlet, is warmed up to 40 ℃, adds acetic acid the pH value of dye bath is adjusted to 4.5, then add low temperature rapid dyeing auxiliary agent and Lan Na uniformly dyeing material, running 10min; Then heat up with the speed of 3.0 ℃/min, be warmed up to after 85 ℃, keep temperature 45min; Then add 2.5% soaping agent of described wool tops quality, keep temperature 15min, spilling water cools to 40 ℃, cleans, and draining, goes out cylinder.
The low temperature rapid dyeing auxiliary agent adopting is the mixture of the two beta-hydroxyethyl esters of acyclic monocarboxylic acid and fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether, the mass ratio of the two beta-hydroxyethyl esters of its acyclic monocarboxylic acid and fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether be 2: 8 to 4: the preferred value of 6(the present embodiment is 3: 7), the addition of low temperature rapid dyeing auxiliary agent is 2.5% of described wool tops quality.It is that orchid receives plain black CE:3.0% that the orchid adopting receives uniformly dyeing material, and orchid receives plain red CE:0.3%, and orchid receives plain yellow CE:0.4%, and orchid receives plain blue 3R:0.5%.
B. spinning process.
Adopt general known spinning process, pass through successively silver mixing-head thick-bis-thick-tri-thick-tetra-thick-end is thick-rove deposit-spun yarn-yarn steaming-baking yarn-from winder-yarn steaming-baking yarn operation, make the yarn for weaving worsted fabric.Spinning process adopts compact spinning spun yarn equipment.
C. weaving process.
Adopt general known circular knitting machine weaving process, yarn weaving is become to grey cloth by technique more than 36 pins.
D. postfinishing process.
Postfinishing process comprises heat-setting process and the flat boiling procedure of open washing.The flat boiling procedure of open washing is to allow knitted cloth under its flat presentation, carry out braying and crabbing.
The design parameter of heat-setting process: setting temperature is 150 ℃, and the speed of a motor vehicle is set as 30m/min, heat set zone length of field is 15m.
The design parameter of the flat boiling procedure of open washing: speed is 30m/min, and braying region water temperature is 45 ℃, and crabbing region water temperature is 60 ℃.
Claims (4)
1. a production method for full wool wool yarn knitted fabric, is characterized in that: by wool tops successively through bar dye recombing, spin, weave, postfinishing process makes fabric;
The dyeing process that bar dyes in recombing technique is to pack wool tops into dye vat, adds water, and heats up and maintains the temperature at 35 ℃ to 40 ℃, adds acetic acid the pH value of dye bath is adjusted to 4 to 5, then add low temperature rapid dyeing auxiliary agent and Lan Na uniformly dyeing material, running 5min to 15min; Then heat up with the speed of 2.0 ℃/min to 3.0 ℃/min, be warmed up to after 80 ℃ to 90 ℃, keep temperature 30 min to 50min;
Spinning process in spinning process adopts compact spinning spun yarn equipment;
Weaving process adopts circular knitting machine;
Postfinishing process comprises heat-setting process and the flat boiling procedure of open washing; The flat boiling procedure of described open washing is to allow knitted cloth under its flat presentation, carry out braying and crabbing; The setting temperature of described heat-setting process is 140 ℃ to 150 ℃, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 25 m/min to 30m/min, and heat set zone length of field is 12m to 15m; The speed of the flat boiling procedure of described open washing is 25 m/min to 30m/min, and braying region water temperature is 40 ℃ to 45 ℃, and crabbing region water temperature is 55 ℃ to 60 ℃.
2. according to the production method of the full wool wool yarn knitted fabric described in claim 1, it is characterized in that: the addition of described low temperature rapid dyeing auxiliary agent is 2% to 3% of described wool tops quality; Described low temperature rapid dyeing auxiliary agent is the mixture of the two β-hydroxyethyl esters of acyclic monocarboxylic acid and fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether, and the mass ratio of the two β-hydroxyethyl esters of its acyclic monocarboxylic acid and fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether is 2: 8 to 4: 6.
3. according to the production method of full wool wool yarn knitted fabric claimed in claim 2, it is characterized in that: when described dyeing process finishes, add 2% to 3% soaping agent of described wool tops quality, keep temperature 15 min to 20min, then spilling water cools to 40 ℃, cleaning, draining, finally goes out cylinder.
4. according to the production method of the full wool wool yarn knitted fabric one of claim 1 to 3 Suo Shu, it is characterized in that: described is dyed recombing technique is successively through dyeing-after backwashing-silver mixing-grilling-combing-grilling-slivering operation; Described spinning process be pass through successively silver mixing-head thick-bis-thick-tri-thick-tetra-thick-end is thick-rove deposit-spun yarn-yarn steaming-baking yarn-from winder-yarn steaming-baking yarn operation.
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CN201410141983.0A CN103938352B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | Pure-wool yarn knitted fabric production method capable of protecting wool against damage |
CN201410224189.2A CN103966789B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | A kind of production method of fabric |
CN201410141984.5A CN103938353B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | The production method of the full wool wool yarn knitted fabric that dyeing step is less |
CN201210342320.6A CN102828330B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | Production method of all-wool yarn knitted fabric |
CN201410224336.6A CN103966865B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | A kind of colouring method and apply the fabric plus material producing method of this colouring method |
CN201410141985.XA CN103938354B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | The production method of the full wool wool yarn knitted fabric that fabric resilience is good |
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CN201410141984.5A Division CN103938353B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | The production method of the full wool wool yarn knitted fabric that dyeing step is less |
CN201410224189.2A Division CN103966789B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | A kind of production method of fabric |
CN201410224336.6A Division CN103966865B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | A kind of colouring method and apply the fabric plus material producing method of this colouring method |
CN201410141985.XA Division CN103938354B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | The production method of the full wool wool yarn knitted fabric that fabric resilience is good |
CN201410141983.0A Division CN103938352B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | Pure-wool yarn knitted fabric production method capable of protecting wool against damage |
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CN201410224189.2A Active CN103966789B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | A kind of production method of fabric |
CN201410224336.6A Active CN103966865B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | A kind of colouring method and apply the fabric plus material producing method of this colouring method |
CN201410141984.5A Active CN103938353B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | The production method of the full wool wool yarn knitted fabric that dyeing step is less |
CN201410141983.0A Active CN103938352B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | Pure-wool yarn knitted fabric production method capable of protecting wool against damage |
CN201410141985.XA Active CN103938354B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | The production method of the full wool wool yarn knitted fabric that fabric resilience is good |
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CN201410224336.6A Active CN103966865B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | A kind of colouring method and apply the fabric plus material producing method of this colouring method |
CN201410141984.5A Active CN103938353B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | The production method of the full wool wool yarn knitted fabric that dyeing step is less |
CN201410141983.0A Active CN103938352B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | Pure-wool yarn knitted fabric production method capable of protecting wool against damage |
CN201410141985.XA Active CN103938354B (en) | 2012-09-17 | 2012-09-17 | The production method of the full wool wool yarn knitted fabric that fabric resilience is good |
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CN103938352A (en) | 2014-07-23 |
CN103938354B (en) | 2016-02-10 |
CN103966789A (en) | 2014-08-06 |
CN103966865B (en) | 2016-03-16 |
CN103938353B (en) | 2016-06-01 |
CN103966789B (en) | 2016-03-16 |
CN103966865A (en) | 2014-08-06 |
CN103938354A (en) | 2014-07-23 |
CN102828330A (en) | 2012-12-19 |
CN103938353A (en) | 2014-07-23 |
CN103938352B (en) | 2015-07-15 |
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