CN101078149A - High-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread and processing method thereof - Google Patents
High-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread and processing method thereof Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses a high denier single spinning single yarn and the processing method. The yarn general branch is 35-60S/1. The material is pure wool or the mixing yarn by wool and terylene, mucilage glue, nylon, the cashmere and floret. It selects the proper material and the using mass in process; also in strip dye and combing process, the animal fiber such as wool, cashmere and floret is dying in low temperature, but for terylene, it uses the dye water in 130deg.C to add the assistant agent in dye or back treat process. In spinning process, it uses the compact spinning or multi spinning to protect the wool fiber and improve the dye quality. So the single yarn has little feather and big strength, good elasticity and good abrasion resistance.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to textile raw material, especially a kind of high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread and processing method thereof belong to the textile processing technical field.
Background technology
Along with expanding economy, people's living standard improves constantly, and consumption demand is also improving constantly to clothing, and expensive goods---the worsted fabric as clothing consumption presents development trend frivolous, comfortable, high-grade, fashion. Development and Production high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread, this work have become an important research topic of this area. Its yarn count is high, cost is low, quality is frivolous, soft smooth, have the body bone, flexible, drapability good, gas permeability is strong, is the raw materials for production of the excellent fabrics such as high-grade Western-style clothes, Western-style trousers, easy dress, jacket, fashionable dress, deeply is subjected to consumer's favor.
At present, a high light and thin type worsted fabric yarn count is mainly at 70-100S/2 both at home and abroad, its employed raw wool fineness is thin, cost is high, and raw material resources are limited, and yarn count is high again, then need to use the above wool of 100S, raw material is just more rare, and cost, difficulty are just larger, so the above height of all woolen 100S/2 props up the light and thin type worsted fabric just seldom.
Summary of the invention
Purpose of the present invention is exactly the defects that exists in order to solve prior art, and a kind of high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread (one of purpose) is provided, and the processing method of this high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread (purpose two).
First purpose of the present invention realizes by following technical solution:
High-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread, raw material is pure wool, or a kind of in wool and the following 17 kinds of materials or two kinds or three kinds of blending form, terylene, viscose glue, polyamide fibre, cashmere, spun silk, bamboo fibre, flax, ramie, cotton yarn, Tencel (day silk), SOLOTEX, Coolmax, Thermolite, T400, bamboo charcoal fiber, Lycra, conductive fiber, it is characterized in that: the public affairs number of described high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread is 35-60S/1.
Further, above-mentioned high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread, when wool and blend polyester, wool ratio 〉=20%; When wool and cashmere blending, wool ratio 〉=70%; When wool and silk blending, wool ratio 〉=45%; When wool and viscose glue or bamboo fibre or Tencel or cotton yarn or flax or ramie or bamboo charcoal fiber blend, wool ratio 〉=45%;
Further, above-mentioned high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread, when adding Lycra in the middle of the raw material, Lycra ratio≤5%; When adding conductive fiber, conductive fiber ratio≤1%; When adding SOLOTEX or Coolmax or Thermolite or T400, SOLOTEX, Coolmax, Thermolite, T400 ratio are all≤50% etc.
Second purpose of the present invention realizes by following technical solution:
The processing method of high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread, comprise that 1. raw material is selected, 2. bar dyes recombing, 3. spinning process step, wherein, select in the operation at 1. raw material, raw material is wool, reaches a kind of or two kinds or three kinds of blending in wool and terylene, viscose glue, polyamide fibre, cashmere, spun silk, bamboo fibre, flax, ramie, cotton yarn, Tencel, SOLOTEX, Coolmax, Thermolite, T400, bamboo charcoal fiber, Lycra, the conductive fiber; Dye in the recombing operation at 2. bar, to wool, cashmere, these animal origins dyeing of spun silk the time, adopt low temperature dyeing technique and low-temp dyeing accelerant, the low temperature dyeing temperature is 80~90 ℃; To the dyeing of fine denier polyester the time, adopt 130 ℃ of high temperature discharge techniques of dyeing pin water, in dyeing course or when the dyeing post processing, add the CROSOLOROZ of CTC company or the auxiliary agent of similar performance dyes or post processing; In 3. spinning process, " compact spinning " or " multiple head spinning " method of employing is spinned, the spinning specification is, public number a: 35-60S/1, and the twist: 800-1400 sth.s made by twisting/m, sth. made by twisting is to Z, S.
Further, the processing method of above-mentioned high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread, wherein process 2. in the middle of, when cashmere is dyeed, in low temperature dyeing, dyeing is adopted first and wool advances with certain proportion the mixings pinecone that cylinder dyeing, interior outer cladding terylene enter that dye vat dyes or wrap with screen cloth and to enter dye vat and dye; To the dyeing of spun silk the time, in low temperature dyeing, before dyeing, the spun silk bar is carried out first degumming process or adopt spun silk to mix afterwards with certain proportion (such as wool 50%, spun silk 50%) with wool and dye again. Process 2. in the middle of, adopt when recombing that little drawing-off after gently quantitative, wide feeding, slow train speed, the front high draft of combing, the combing, principle of readjustment, restructuring, consolidation and improvement are close to reach the larger combing processing technology of spacing of choosing, and take the combing flow process of front four rear pseudo-ginseng road grillings. Process 3. in the middle of, adopt the smooth spirit with high resistance static and smooth performance with crude oil, front spinning adopts silver mixing secondary, dandy roving to increase together, perhaps dandy roving adopts technological process and the technique of three rove feedings, makes the single thread Uster sliver reach 5% and above level.
In the above-mentioned processing method, " compact spinning " is the advanced technology of equipment Imported From German EMH Company Suessen company on traditional E J519 spinning frame, one group of blower fan, blower motor, aspiration channel, special-shaped negative tube, guard, one group of red shagreen roller etc. have been installed additional, make it to form in the front roller exit negative pressure condensation region, when the rove yarn that is subjected to the drafter drawing-off is regional by this, under the effect of negative pressure cohesiveness, the tight rove that strand coagulation becomes closely, the fiber head end is close to the rove surface, thereby eliminated spinning triangular zone, so that the single thread any surface finish of spinning, filoplume is few, and bar makes a good job of, powerful high, wearability strengthens. " multiple head spinning " is to install " a kind of device of ring spindle yarn multiple head spinning " additional at traditional E J519 spinning frame, adopt the method for rove bull interval feeding spinning frame draw zone, make single thread form a bull trigonum in the front roller exit, single thread is in the running twisting process, because the transmission of the twist, bull single thread in the trigonum is twisted rear respectively and is closed again and twisted, form the single thread of a similar multiply yarn, the fiber head end that exposes outside yarn twines through twice twisting, yarn is bright and clean, filoplume reduces, powerful increasing, and wearability improves. Spun yarn adopts above two kinds of processing methods, and the single thread filoplume is few, and bar makes a good job of, and wear resistance increases, and single thread force improves, and has improved the quality that can weave single thread.
The invention has the advantages that: protect to greatest extent the premium properties of wool fiber, reduce wool damage, guarantee the fiber strengths such as wool; improve dyeing quality, improve spinnability, change the single thread structure of spinning; the single thread bar makes a good job of; filoplume is few, and powerful large, elongation is long; good springiness; wearability obviously improves, and has improved weaving efficiency and quality, has realized that successfully single thread can weave. This technical scheme can be used for Development and Production wool or wool and other fiber blend, various ratios, single thread number up to 35S/1-60s/1, and weight is at 80-300g/m2, comprise combing worsted spinning pyrrole sound of a bird chirping, cheviot, gabardine, fancy suiting, valitin, women clothing, each large class such as tribute, and various such as machine washable, nano-antibacterial, crease-resistant, antistatic, waterproof, grease proofing, Lycra elastic force, natural elastic force etc. functional high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus material, but for the exploitation of textile industry single-warp single-abb kind and the research and development of production, single thread weaving technology, Advanced Spinning Technologies and relevant device, all have good drive and facilitation.
The specific embodiment
The present invention is in specific implementation process, and the public affairs number of high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread is 35-60S/1. The example following table:
The name of an article | Raw material | Ratio | Yarn count |
Hair is washed valitin | 70S/2.5D | 35/65 | 49S/1 |
Mao Dizhu valitin | 80S/2.5D/3D | 30/30/40 | 44S/1 |
All woolen woman clothing | 70S/80S | 50/50 | 36S/1*40S/1 |
Hair is washed herringbone | 100S/2D | 80/20 | 53S/1 |
The cashmere serge | The 90S/ cashmere | 90/10 | 43S/1*52S/1 |
Silk wool fancy suiting | The 90S/ silk | 85/15 | 40S/1*48S/1 |
Hair is washed numb serge | 70S/2.5D | 50/29.1/20/0.9 | 38S/1*44S/1 |
The two cheviots that play of all woolen herringbone | The 70S/40D Lycra | 95.56/4.44 | 35S/1 |
Mao Jinshuan bullet serge | The 70S/3D/40D Lycra | 74.7/20/5.3 | 36S/1 |
Hair is washed the conduction gabardine | 70S/2.5D/ conductive fiber | 70/29.2/0.8 | 36S/1*48S/1 |
All woolen Fan Liding | 100S | 100 | 60S/1 |
High-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread manufacture craft of the present invention comprises that mainly raw material is selected, bar dyes recombing and spinning, and its step is as follows:
A) raw material is selected
Wool, and the blending such as a kind of in wool and terylene, viscose glue, polyamide fibre, cashmere, spun silk, bamboo fibre, flax, ramie, cotton yarn, Tencel (day thread), SOLOTEX, Coolmax, Thermolite, T400, bamboo charcoal fiber, Lycra, conductive fiber etc. or two kinds or three kinds; And novel material, environmental protection raw material, functional raw material etc. are adopted in emphasis; Carry out simultaneously the reasonably combined of various raw materials, demonstrate fully the good characteristic of various raw materials and mutually additional, thus the good quality in kind and the style and features that meet trend of the market and consumer's requirement of performance high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread and high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus material.
Its raw material weight percentage is as follows:
During pure wool: 100%;
When wool and blend polyester: wool ratio 〉=20%;
When wool and cashmere blending: wool ratio 〉=70%;
When wool and silk blending: wool ratio 〉=45%;
When wool and viscose glue or bamboo fibre or day silk or cotton yarn or fiber crops or bamboo charcoal fiber blend: wool ratio 〉=45%;
When adding Lycra, Lycra ratio≤5%; When adding conductive fiber, conductive fiber ratio≤1%; When adding SOLOTEX or Coolmax or Thermolite or T400, SOLOTEX, Coolmax, Thermolite, T400 ratio be≤and 50%; Etc., the mixing of the applicable various ratios of the various raw materials of combing worsted spinning.
B) bar dyes recombing
Bar dyeing technique flow process is: Computer color testing the color matching------pinecone---low temperature dyeing---after backwashing of drawing a design
Wool mordant dyes low temperature dyeing technique: water inlet---heats up 40 ℃---add acetic acid and transferred pH value 4.5, low temperature dyeing accelerant NALD 3%, bleeding agent H E90042%, preventing felting and shrinking of wood fabric agent AFW 1%---running 5 minutes---add mordant dyes---turn round 10 minutes---be warming up to 70 ℃ in 0.7 ℃/1 minute---be incubated 15 minutes---be warming up to 85 ℃ in 1 ℃/1 minute---be incubated 20 minutes---append acetic acid 1%---and be incubated 25 minutes---excessive little water for cooling to 75 ℃---add sodium dichromate---turned round 10 minutes---be warming up to 85 ℃ in 1 ℃/1 minute---be incubated 40 minutes---spilling water is cooled to 80 ℃---add lotion 2%---turn round 20 minutes---spilling water is cooled to 40 ℃---spilling waters clearly, go out cylinder. For further preventing the woolen dyed confusion of 100S, adding in the situation of antifelting agent, ball top wraps up into cylinder with screen cloth and dyeing.
Low temperature dyeing: for guaranteeing spinning quality, the premium properties of the animal origins such as maintenance wool, damage when reducing high-temperature dyeing, improve dyefastness, it is powerful to strengthen spinning, improve spinnability, and spinning weaving efficiency, be beneficial to the production of high-count single-warp single-abb light and thin type worsted fabric, to the dyeing of the animal origins such as wool, cashmere, spun silk, optimize, screen low temperature dyeing technique and low-temp dyeing accelerant, realize low temperature dyeing, its low temperature dyeing temperature is 80-90 ℃, preferred 85 ℃, and for exploitation and the production of high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus material lays the first stone.
The improvement of low temperature dyeing wool performance (than 100 ℃ of dyeing): brute force: improve about 10% (than 100 ℃ of less coloration damages); Elongation: increase about 16%; Feel: obviously soft, good springiness; Gloss: obviously beautiful; Dyefastness: improve the 0.5-1 level.
Dyeing terylene: for the dyeing of terylen, especially the dyeing of fine denier polyester, consider emphatically the raising of its dyefastness, and the generation of minimizing terylene oligomer, be beneficial to the spinning of rear road, adopt 130 ℃ of high temperature discharge techniques of dyeing pin water for this reason, and in dyeing course, or the CROSOLOROZ of adding CTC company dyes or post processing when the dyeing post processing.
Cashmere dyeing: in low temperature dyeing, owing to cashmere is carefully lacked, be difficult to the pinecone, dyeing and combing, dyeing adopts elder generation and wool to advance cylinder dyeing with the certain proportion mixing pinecone for this reason, or interior outer cladding terylene enters dye vat dyeing, or wraps with screen cloth and to enter dye vat dyeing etc.
Spun silk dyeing: in low temperature dyeing, because silk flock is thin and soft, and the surface has " silk gum ", strand is sticking also after the dyeing, is difficult to drawing-off, combing, mix, and card nailing neps is many, fibre damage is large, for this reason, before the dyeing spun silk bar is carried out first degumming process etc., or again dyeing after adopting spun silk and wool mixing with certain proportion, and the consideration wool dyes uniformity, to dyestuff on the spun silk, auxiliary agent, heating process etc. have carried out choose reasonable and optimization.
The recombing technological process is: single comb---silver mixing---scalp acupuncture---two pins---combing---grilling----Mo pin (two roads)
The production of high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus material, bar dye recombing be necessary for the spinning lay a solid foundation. Recombing adopt little drawing-off after gently quantitative, wide feeding, slow train speed, the front high draft of combing, the combing, principle of readjustment, restructuring, consolidation and improvement close, reach the larger combing technique such as space of choosing, and the technological process of combing front four rear three road grillings, guarantee that the quality of recombed top reaches: Uster sliver U value :≤2.5%; Card nailing neps :≤1/g; Weight unevenness :≤1.5%; The following undercoat coefficient of 30mm :≤1.5%; The following undercoat coefficient of 15mm: 0.
C) spinning
Spinning specification: number: Nm35-60S/1; The twist: 800-1400 sth. made by twisting/m; Sth. made by twisting is to Z, S.
---pluckings---two is thick, and---three is thick, and---four is thick, and------end is thick, and---rove is deposited, and------yarn steaming---baking yarn---is from winder for compact spinning or multiple head spinning for rove for spinning technological process: silver mixing (two roads). Main process conditions are as follows:
Operation | Equipment | And close (root) | Drawing-off (doubly) | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Roller gauge (mm) | The needle plate number | Needle plate hits (inferior/as to divide) | Remarks |
Silver mixing (one) | B412 | 9 | 7.56 | 20.05 | 40 | 10 | 800 | 3001 and crude oil 50-60g/l |
Silver mixing (two) | B412 | 7 | 7.56 | 19.54 | 40 | 10 | 800 | 3001 and crude oil 70-80g/l |
Pluckings | B423 | 7 | 7.42 | 18.8 | 40 | 13 | 800 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
Two is thick | B432 | 3 | 7.28 | 7.91 | 38 | 16 | 800 | |
Three is thick | B442 | 3 | 7.18 | 3.37 | 36 | 19 | 800 | |
Four is thick | B452 | 2 | 7 | 0.96 | 12 | 400 | ||
Rove | FB461 | 2 | 4.28 | 0.45 | 85 | 26 | ||
The end is thick | FB441 | 2 | 4.28 | 0.21 | 85 | 27 | ||
Compact spinning or multiple head spinning spun yarn | In fact spin number 60s/1, twist 1320T/m twists with the fingers to Z, the double roving feeding, No. 28, wire loop, roller pressurization II shelves, after the 85mm that spaces; | |||||||
Yarn steaming | Temperature: 85 ℃, the time: 80 minutes, before, during and after vacuumize for three times; | |||||||
The baking yarn | Temperature: 60 ℃ of times: 8 hours | |||||||
From winder | Yarn clearing parameter: N380 S160% 2.0cm L40% 40cm bobbin weight 1.2kg |
" compact spinning " or " multiple head spinning " method of employing is spinned, and can fundamentally change spun yarn and spin the single thread structure, improves the single thread quality. For guaranteeing better the production of high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread, obtain the high-caliber Yarn Evenness that spins, with crude oil can adopt have high resistance static and a smooth performance can effectively reduce card nailing neps, yarn defect, improve filoplume, be beneficial to the smooth spirit of SDF of the Britain STTC company of spinning quality, front spinning adopted the silver mixing secondary, extreme trace FB441 rove increases together, or technological process and the technique of three rove feedings of dandy roving FB441 employing, to increase and to close number of times, improve and spin Yarn Evenness. Simultaneously, to each procedure space, the employing orthogonal test method such as drafting multiple, pressure, tension force is optimized, improves technique, strengthen management and the control of production process, assurance equipment, especially process components intact makes the single thread Uster sliver reach 5% and above level.
Embodiment one: all-wool valetin
1, kind design
Raw material: wool 100S; Ratio: 100%; Yarn count: Dan Jing * single latitude Nm 60S/1 * 60S/1; The twist: Dan Jing * single latitude Z 1320 sth. made by twisting/m * Z 1320 sth. made by twisting/m; Thread count: through close * 328.6 * 300/10cm of filling density; The door width of cloth: 160cm; Weight: 176g/m
2, bar dyes
Technological process: Computer color testing the color matching------pinecone---dyeing---after backwashing of drawing a design. Flow process master operation technique is:
1) Computer color testing color matching and assembly hair are drawn a design
-----------------computer correction dyeing prescription---beats sample to colour measuring ﹠ colour matching in colour examining to beat sample to select dyestuff, reach 4.5 grades and more than,------colour examining---the computer correction dyeing prescription and adjust prescription---vat dyeing---is pieced together mao---colour examining---coloured light the personnel that check on check on and sign according to a changes of shade rule---recombing of revising prescription, vat dyeing and through check on personnel signature of coloured light
2) pinecone: wool 5kg/ only, and for guaranteeing the 80kg/ cylinder, advance the last cylinder of cylinder more overall pound material adjust weight.
3) dyeing: coloured light: navy; Dyestuff: through the Computer color testing color matching, select mordant dyes dyeing; Dyeing: adopt 85 ℃ of low temperature dyeing techniques, be specially: water inlet---heats up 40 ℃---add acetic acid and transferred pH value 4.5, low temperature dyeing accelerant NALD 3%, bleeding agent H E90042%, preventing felting and shrinking of wood fabric agent AFW 1%---running 5 minutes---add mordant dyes---turn round 10 minutes---be warming up to 70 ℃ in 0.7 ℃/1 minute---be incubated 15 minutes---be warming up to 85 ℃ in 1 ℃/1 minute---be incubated 20 minutes---append acetic acid 1%---insulation 25 minutes---excessive little water for cooling to 75 ℃---adding sodium dichromate %---turned round 10 minutes---be warming up to 85 ℃ in 1 ℃/1 minute---be incubated 40 minutes---spilling water is cooled to 80 ℃---add lotion 2%---turn round 20 minutes---spilling water is cooled to 40 ℃---spilling waters clearly, go out cylinder. For further preventing the woolen dyed confusion of 100S, adding in the situation of antifelting agent, ball top wraps up into cylinder with screen cloth and dyeing.
4) after backwashing: the first groove: 45 ℃, add the husky agent 2kg of oil removing, and appended once every 2 hours; The second groove: 45 ℃, washing; Three-flute: 45 ℃, washing; The 4th groove: 45 ℃, washing; Drying room temperature: 80-85 ℃. Guarantee that the wool tops moisture regain is controlled at 16-18%.
3, recombing
Technological process: single comb---silver mixing---scalp acupuncture---two pins---last pin of combing---grilling---(two roads). Main technique is as follows:
Feeding (g/m) | Drafting multiple | Front ratch (mm) | The needle plate number | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Remarks | |
Single comb | 161 | 7.85 | 40 | 7 | 20.5 | 3001 and crude oil 60g/l |
Silver mixing | 164 | 8 | 40 | 7 | 20.5 | |
Scalp acupuncture | 164 | 8 | 40 | 10 | 20.5 | |
Two pins | 61.5*2 | 7.69 | 36 | 13 | 8 | |
Combing | 64*2 | 21T | 30 | No. 28, top comb, garden are combed last three rows No. 30 | 16 | |
Grilling | 160 | 8 | 40 | 13 | 20 | Needle plate hits 800 beats/mins |
End pin () | 160 | 8 | 38 | 16 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
End pin (two) | 120 | 7.5 | 36 | 16 | 16 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
4, spinning
---pluckings---two is thick, and---three is thick, and---four is thick, and------end is thick, and---rove is deposited, and------yarn steaming---baking yarn---is from winder for compact spinning for rove in technological process: silver mixing (two roads). Main technique is as follows:
And close (root) | Drawing-off (doubly) | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Roller gauge (mm) | The needle plate number | Needle plate hits (inferior/as to divide) | Remarks | |
Silver mixing (one) | 9 | 7.56 | 20.05 | 40 | 10 | 800 | 3001 and crude oil 50-60g/l |
Silver mixing (two) | 7 | 7.56 | 19.54 | 40 | 10 | 800 | 3001 and crude oil 70-80g/l |
Pluckings | 7 | 7.42 | 18.8 | 40 | 13 | 800 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
Two is thick | 3 | 7.28 | 7.91 | 38 | 16 | 800 | |
Three is thick | 3 | 7.18 | 3.37 | 36 | 19 | 800 | |
Four is thick | 2 | 7 | 0.96 | 12 | 400 | ||
Rove | 2 | 4.28 | 0.45 | 85 | 26 | Speed of a motor vehicle tooth 35T, backward pull tooth 26T, syringe tooth 55T, the outer second gear of pressurization | |
The end is thick | 2 | 4.28 | 0.21 | 85 | 27 | Speed of a motor vehicle tooth 35T, backward pull tooth 26T, syringe tooth 56T, the outer second gear of pressurization | |
The compact spinning spun yarn | Spin in fact number 60s/1 twist 1320T/m and twist with the fingers the 85mm that spaces behind No. 28 rollers pressurizations of the Z double roving feeding wire loop II shelves | ||||||
Yarn steaming | Temperature: 85 ℃ of times: vacuumize for three times before, during and after 80 minutes | ||||||
The baking yarn | Temperature: 60 ℃ of times: 8 hours | ||||||
From winder | Yarn clearing parameter: N380 S160% 2.0cm L40% 40cm bobbin weight 1.2kg |
The high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread that said method processes, through further weave, dyeing and finishing can make the all-wool valetin fabric, this fabric feel is fine and smooth, sliding glutinous, frivolous, active flexible, face is bright and clean, smooth, tribute is sub clear, the sense of hanging down is arranged, glossy, be the high-grade fabric of high-grade suit, Western-style trousers, shirt etc.
Embodiment two: hair is washed valitin
1, kind design
Raw material: wool 70S/ terylene 2.5D; Ratio: 35%/65%; Yarn count: Dan Jing * single latitude Nm 49S/1 * 49S/1; The twist: Dan Jing * single latitude Z 1100 sth. made by twisting/m * Z 1100 sth. made by twisting/m; Thread count: follow/10cm through close * filling density 232 * 218; The door width of cloth: 149cm; Weight: 150g/m.
2, bar dyes
Technological process: Computer color testing the color matching------pinecone---dyeing---after backwashing of drawing a design. Flow process master operation technique:
1) Computer color testing color matching and assembly hair are drawn a design: with embodiment one.
2) pinecone: A, the wool pinecone: with embodiment one; B, the terylene pinecone: 3.4kg/ only, and for guaranteeing the 85kg/ cylinder, advance the last cylinder of cylinder more overall pound material adjust weight.
3) dyeing: coloured light: grey, green, blueness, light yellow; Dyestuff: through Computer color testing color matching, wool all selects orchid to receive free and easy dyeing, and terylene is all selected disperse dyeing; Dyeing: A, wool adopt 85 ℃ of low temperature dyeing techniques; Water inlet---heats up 40 ℃---add acetic acid and transfer pH value 4.5, low temperature dyeing accelerant NALD 3%, bleeding agent H E 9004 2%---running 5 minutes---free and easy dyestuff is received in the Garland---turned round 10 minutes---be warming up to 75 ℃ in 0.7 ℃/1 minute---be incubated 20 minutes---be warming up to 85 ℃ in 1 ℃/1 minute------spilling water is cooled to 40 ℃---spilling water that is incubated 40 minutes clearly, go out cylinder. B, dyeing terylene technique; Water inlet---heats up 60 ℃ and---adds acetic acid and transfer pH value 5.5, OZ1%---running 5 minutes that------turn round 15 minutes,---------------add caustic soda 2.5%, sodium hydrosulfite 2%, OZ0.5%---is incubated 20 minutes---turn round went out cylinder in 15 minutes to emptying pin water---intaking, add 1% formic acid neutralizes---133 ℃ of emptying pin water of high temperature to be warming up to 100 ℃ to be incubated 60 minutes to be warming up to 133 ℃ in 1 ℃/1 minute to add the dispersion dyestuff.
4) after backwashing: A, wool after backwashing: with embodiment one; B, terylene after backwashing: the first groove: 60 ℃, washing; The second groove: 60 ℃, washing; Three-flute: 60 ℃, washing; The 4th groove: 80 ℃, add TF conditioner 5kg, appended once every 2 hours; Drying room temperature: 120-130 ℃. Guarantee the moisture regain of terylene bar be controlled at 1% and in.
3, recombing
Technological process: single comb---silver mixing---scalp acupuncture---two pins---last pin of combing---grilling---(two roads). Main technique:
Feeding (g/m) | Drafting multiple | Front ratch (mm) | The needle plate number | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Remarks | |
Single comb wool | 207 | 6.79 | 50 | 7 | 30.5 | SDF and crude oil 60g/l |
Single comb terylene | 150 | 7.69 | 60 | 7 | 19.5 | Pressure 1.3MPa |
Silver mixing (one) | 181 | 8 | 60 | 7 | 22.6 | Pressure 1.3MPa |
Silver mixing (two) | 180.8 | 8 | 60 | 7 | 22.6 | Pressure 1.3MPa |
Scalp acupuncture | 180.8 | 8 | 60 | 10 | 22.6 | Pressure 1.3MPa |
Two pins | 67.8*2 | 7.97 | 55 | 13 | 8.5 | |
Combing | 68*2 | 30 | No. 28, top comb, garden are combed last three rows No. 30 | 16 | ||
Grilling | 160 | 8 | 60 | 13 | 20 | Pressure 1.3MPa |
End pin () | 160 | 8 | 55 | 16 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
End pin (two) | 140 | 7.78 | 55 | 16 | 18 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
4, spinning
---pluckings---two is thick, and---three is thick, and---four is thick, and------end is thick, and---rove is deposited, and------yarn steaming---baking yarn---is from winder for compact spinning for rove in technological process: silver mixing (two roads). Main technique:
And close (root) | Drawing-off (doubly) | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Roller gauge (mm) | The needle plate number | Needle plate hits (inferior/as to divide) | Remarks | |
Silver mixing | 9 | 8.5 | 20.1 | 55 | 10 | 1200 | SDF and crude oil 35-40g/l |
Pluckings | 8 | 8.2 | 20 | 55 | 10 | 1200 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
Two is thick | 4 | 8 | 10.2 | 50 | 13 | 1200 | |
Three is thick | 3 | 7.8 | 3.96 | 45 | 16 | 1200 | |
Four is thick | 2 | 7.8 | 1.02 | 10 | 800 | ||
Rove | 2 | 4.28 | 0.48 | 105 | 25 | Speed of a motor vehicle 43T | Outer one grade of backward pull tooth 24T, syringe tooth 52T, pressurization |
The end is thick | 2 | 4.28 | 0.22 | 105 | 26 | Speed of a motor vehicle 43T | Outer one grade of backward pull tooth 24T, syringe tooth 53T, pressurization |
The compact spinning spun yarn | Spin in fact number 49s/1 twist 1100T/m and twist with the fingers the 95mm that spaces behind No. 26 rollers pressurizations of the Z double roving feeding wire loop II shelves | ||||||
Yarn steaming | Temperature: vacuumize for three times before, during and after 90 ℃ of 120 minutes times | ||||||
The baking yarn | Temperature: 60 ℃ of 8 hours times | ||||||
From winder | Yarn clearing parameter: N350 S160% 2.0cm L45% 40cm bobbin 1.2kg |
The high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread that said method processes, through further weave, dyeing and finishing can make the hair wash the valitin fabric, this fabric feel is dry and comfortable, soft, quality is frivolous, face is smooth, and is crease-resistant, and gloss is soft, lovely luster is the high-grade fabric of Ms's fashionable dress.
Embodiment three: Mao Dizhu valitin
1, kind design
Raw material: the fine 3D of wool 80S/ terylene 2.5D/ bamboo; Ratio: 30%/30%/40%; Yarn count: Dan Jing * single latitude Nm 44S/1 * 44S/1; The twist: Dan Jing * single latitude Z 960 sth. made by twisting/m * Z 960 sth. made by twisting/m; Thread count: through close * 325 * 265/10cm of filling density; The door width of cloth: 153cm; Weight: 220g/m.
2, bar dyes
Technological process: Computer color testing the color matching------pinecone---dyeing---after backwashing of drawing a design. Flow process master operation technique:
1) Computer color testing color matching and assembly hair are drawn a design: with embodiment one.
2) pinecone: A, wool, the terylene pinecone: with embodiment two; B, the bamboo fibre pinecone: with the embodiment two terylene pinecones.
3) dyeing: coloured light: black, light gray; Dyestuff: through Computer color testing color matching, wool black is selected mordant dyes dyeing, and the wool light gray selects orchid to receive free and easy dyeing, and terylene black, light gray are all selected disperse dyeing, and bamboo fibre black, light gray are all selected reactive dyeing; Dyeing: A, wool black mordant dyes dyeing: with embodiment one, adopt 85 ℃ of low temperature dyeing techniques. The light grey orchid of B, wool receives free and easy dyeing technique: with embodiment two, adopt 85 ℃ of low temperature dyeing techniques. C, terylene disperse dyeing process: with embodiment two dyeing terylenes. D, bamboo fibre reactive dyeing process: water inlet---added SP-2 2% soda ash 0.4%---running 5 minutes and---add reactive dye and---turn round 10 minutes and------be incubated 5 minutes and------add glauber salt 2%---0.5 ℃/1 minute and be warming up to 40 ℃ and---be incubated 5 minutes and---add glauber salt 2%---0.5 ℃/1 minute and be warming up to 50 ℃ and---be incubated 5 minutes and---add glauber salt 2%---0.5 ℃/1 minute and be warming up to 60 ℃ that------------emptying pin water---is intake, is warming up to 50 ℃---and add lotion, washed 20 minutes to be incubated 50 minutes to add soda ash 6% (dividing three addings) to be incubated 40 minutes to 30 ℃, 40 ℃ are intake, are warming up to triplicate---emptying pin water---, adds color-fixing agent 2500 5%---running 20 minutes---go out cylinder.
4) after backwashing: A, wool after backwashing: with embodiment one; B, terylene after backwashing: with embodiment two; C, bamboo fibre after backwashing: with the terylene after backwashing technique of embodiment two.
3, recombing
Technological process: single comb---silver mixing---scalp acupuncture---two pins---last pin of combing---grilling---(two roads). Main technique:
Feeding (g/m) | Drafting multiple | Front ratch (mm) | The needle plate number | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Remarks | |
Single comb wool bamboo is fine | 185 | 8.04 | 55 | 7 | 23 | SDF and crude oil 60g/ minute |
Scalp acupuncture | 185 | 8.04 | 55 | 10 | 23 | |
Two pins | 69*2 | 8.12 | 50 | 13 | 8.5 | |
Combing | 68*2 | 30 | No. 28, top comb, garden are combed last three rows No. 30 | 16 | ||
Grilling | 160 | 8 | 55 | 13 | 20 | 800 beats/mins of faller drops |
Single comb terylene | 165 | 6.37 | 60 | 7 | 25.9 | |
Silver mixing | 171.8 | 7.47 | 55 | 7 | 23 | W30/T30/ bamboo fibre 40 |
Scalp acupuncture | 138 | 6.9 | 55 | 10 | 20 | |
Two pins | 60*2 | 7.5 | 50 | 13 | 8 | |
Combing | 64*2 | 28 | No. 28, top comb, garden are combed last three rows No. 30 | 16 | ||
Grilling | 160 | 8 | 55 | 13 | 20 | 800 beats/mins of faller drops |
End pin () | 160 | 8 | 50 | 16 | 20 | 800 beats/mins of self-regulateds of faller drops are neat and well spaced |
End pin (two) | 160 | 50 | 16 | 20 | 800 beats/mins of self-regulateds of faller drops are neat and well spaced |
4, spinning
---pluckings---two is thick, and---three is thick, and---four is thick, and------end is thick, and---rove is deposited, and------yarn steaming---baking yarn---is from winder for compact spinning for rove in technological process: silver mixing (two roads). Main technique:
And close (root) | Drawing-off (doubly) | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Roller gauge (mm) | The needle plate number | Needle plate hits (inferior/as to divide) | Remarks | |
Silver mixing (one) | 8 | 7.81 | 21.56 | 50 | 10 | 800 | 3001 and crude oil 50-60g/l |
Pluckings | 7 | 7.56 | 21 | 50 | 10 | 800 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
Two is thick | 3 | 7.28 | 8.84 | 45 | 13 | 800 | |
Three is thick | 3 | 7.14 | 3.79 | 42 | 16 | 800 | |
Four is thick | 2 | 7 | 1.08 | 40 | 10 | 400 | |
Rove | 2 | 4.18 | 0.52 | 95 | 25 | One grade outward of speed of a motor vehicle tooth 39T, backward pull tooth 24T, syringe tooth 53T, pressurization | |
The end is thick | 2 | 4.08 | 0.255 | 95 | 26 | One grade outward of speed of a motor vehicle tooth 39T, backward pull tooth 24T, syringe tooth 54T, pressurization | |
The compact spinning spun yarn | Spin number 44s/1 in fact, twist 960T/m twists with the fingers to Z, and 90mm spaces behind No. 26 roller pressurizations of the double roving feeding wire loop II shelves | ||||||
Yarn steaming | 90 ℃ of temperature, 120 minutes time, before, during and after vacuumize for three times | ||||||
The baking yarn | Temperature 60 C, 8 hours time | ||||||
From winder | Yarn clearing parameter: N380 S160% 2.0cm L45% 45cm |
The high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread that said method processes, through further weave, dyeing and finishing can make Mao Dizhu valitin fabric, this fabric feel is smooth, the body bone is arranged, flexible, quality is frivolous, face is bright and clean, smooth, the gloss nature, good permeability has antibiotic, health care, is the high-grade fabric of men and women's spring and summer Western-style clothes, Western-style trousers, fashionable dress, easy dress, shirt etc.
Embodiment four: all woolen woman clothing
1, kind design
Raw material: wool 70S/ wool 80S; Ratio: 50%/50%; Yarn count: Dan Jing * single latitude Nm 36S/1 * 40S/1; The twist: Dan Jing * single latitude Z 900 sth. made by twisting/m * Z 800 sth. made by twisting/m; Thread count: through close * 312 * 252/10cm of filling density; The door width of cloth: 154cm; Weight: 265g/m.
2, bar dyes
Technological process: Computer color testing the color matching------pinecone---dyeing---after backwashing of drawing a design. Flow process master operation technique:
1) Computer color testing color matching and piece together that hair is drawn a design, the pinecone: all with embodiment one.
2) dyeing: coloured light: cream-coloured; Dyestuff: through Computer color testing color matching, wool is cream-coloured selects orchid to receive free and easy dyeing; Dyeing: woolen dyed with embodiment two, adopt 85 ℃ of low temperature dyeing techniques.
3) after backwashing: the wool after backwashing is with embodiment one, wool after backwashing technique.
3, recombing
Technological process: single comb---silver mixing---scalp acupuncture---two pins---last pin of combing---grilling---(two roads). Main technique:
Feeding (g/m) | Drafting multiple | Front ratch (mm) | The needle plate number | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Remarks | |
Single comb | 207 | 7.5 | 45 | 7 | 27.72 | Add 3001 and crude oil 60g/l |
Silver mixing | 221.8 | 7.92 | 45 | 7 | 28 | |
Scalp acupuncture | 168 | 8.4 | 45 | 10 | 20 | |
Two pins | 60*2 | 7.5 | 40 | 13 | 8 | |
Combing | 80*2 | 21T | 28 | No. 28, top comb, garden are combed last three rows No. 28 | 16 | |
Grilling | 160 | 8 | 45 | 10 | 20 | |
End pin () | 160 | 8 | 40 | 13 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
End pin (two) | 160 | 8 | 40 | 13 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
4, spinning
---pluckings---two is thick, and---three is thick, and---four is thick, and------end is thick, and---rove is deposited, and------yarn steaming---baking yarn---is from winder for compact spinning for rove in technological process: silver mixing (two roads). Main technique:
And close (root) | Drawing-off (doubly) | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Roller gauge (mm) | The needle plate number | Needle plate hits (inferior/as to divide) | Remarks | |
Silver mixing (one) | 7 | 7.56 | 20.34 | 45 | 10 | 800 | 3001 and crude oil 50-60g/l |
Silver mixing (two) | 7 | 7.56 | 19.22 | 45 | 10 | 800 | 3001 and crude oil 70-80g/l |
Pluckings | 7 | 7.28 | 18.86 | 42 | 13 | 800 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
Two is thick | 3 | 7.28 | 7.93 | 40 | 16 | 800 | |
Three is thick | 3 | 7.14 | 3.37 | 36 | 19 | 800 | |
Four is thick | 2 | 6.5 | 1.0 | 12 | 400 | ||
Rove | 2 | 4.08 | 0.49 | 90 | 26 | Speed of a motor vehicle tooth 35T, backward pull tooth 26T, syringe tooth 54T, the outer second gear of pressurization | |
The end is thick | 2 | 4.18 | 0.23 | 90 | 27 | Speed of a motor vehicle tooth 35T, backward pull tooth 26T, syringe tooth 55T, the outer second gear of pressurization |
The compact spinning spun yarn | Warp thread: the real number 36s/1 twist 900T/m that spins twists with the fingers the 85mm weft yarn that spaces behind No. 25 rollers pressurizations of the Z double roving feeding wire loop II shelves: the real number 40s/1 twist 800T/m that spins twists with the fingers the 85mm that spaces behind No. 26 rollers pressurizations of the Z double roving feeding wire loop II shelves |
Yarn steaming | Temperature: vacuumize for three times before, during and after 85 ℃ of 80 minutes times. |
The baking yarn | Temperature: 60 ℃ of 4 hours times |
From winder | The speed of a motor vehicle: 950n/min yarn clearing parameter: N360 S180% 2.5cm L50% 40cm |
The high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread that said method processes, through further weave, dyeing and finishing can make all woolen woman clothing wool fabric, this fabric feel is smooth, active, hang down and feels, face is plentiful, third dimension is strong, gloss is natural, soft, is the first-selected fabric of lady casual, fashionable dress, suit.
Embodiment five: hair is washed herringbone
1, kind design
Raw material: wool 100S/ terylene 2D; Ratio: 802%/20%; Yarn count: Dan Jing * single latitude Nm 53S/1 * 53S/1; The twist: Dan Jing * single latitude S 1130 sth. made by twisting/m * S 1130 sth. made by twisting/m; Thread count: through close * 458 * 353/10cm of filling density; The door width of cloth: 152cm; Weight: 248g/m.
2, bar dyes
Technological process: Computer color testing the color matching------pinecone---dyeing---after backwashing of drawing a design. Flow process master operation technique:
1) Computer color testing color matching and piece together that hair is drawn a design, the pinecone: all with embodiment two.
2) dyeing: coloured light: black; Dyestuff: through the Computer color testing color matching, wool is selected mordant dyes dyeing, and terylene is selected disperse dyeing; Dyeing: woolen dyed with embodiment one mordant dyes dyeing; Dyeing terylene is with embodiment two disperse dyeing process.
3) after backwashing: wool, terylene after backwashing technique are all with embodiment two.
3, recombing
Technological process: single comb---silver mixing---scalp acupuncture---two pins---last pin of combing---grilling---(two roads). Main technique:
Feeding (g/m) | Drafting multiple | Front ratch (mm) | The needle plate number | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Remarks | |
Single comb wool | 184 | 6.5 | 40 | 7 | 28.3 | Adding the smooth clever 60g/l needle plate of SDF hits 800 times |
Single comb terylene | 165 | 7.78 | 50 | 7 | 21.2 | |
Silver mixing (one) | 212 | 7.6 | 40 | 7 | 28 | |
Silver mixing (two) | 196 | 8 | 40 | 7 | 24.5 | |
Scalp acupuncture | 122.5 | 7 | 40 | 10 | 17.5 | |
Two pins | 70*2 | 8.75 | 38 | 13 | 8 | |
Combing | 64*2 | 21T | 30 | No. 28, top comb, garden are combed last three rows No. 30 | 16 | |
Grilling | 160 | 8 | 40 | 13 | 20 | |
End pin () | 160 | 8 | 36 | 16 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
End pin (two) | 160 | 8 | 36 | 16 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
4, spinning
---pluckings---two is thick, and---three is thick, and---four is thick, and------end is thick, and---rove is deposited, and------yarn steaming---baking yarn---is from winder for compact spinning for rove in technological process: silver mixing (two roads). Main technique:
And close (root) | Drawing-off (doubly) | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Roller gauge (mm) | The needle plate number | Needle plate hits (inferior/as to divide) | Remarks | |
Silver mixing (one) | 7 | 7.56 | 20.34 | 40 | 10 | 800 | SDF and crude oil 50-60g/l |
Silver mixing (two) | 7 | 7.56 | 19.22 | 40 | 10 | 800 | SDF and crude oil 70-80g/l |
Pluckings | 7 | 7.28 | 18.86 | 40 | 13 | 800 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
Two is thick | 3 | 7.28 | 7.93 | 38 | 16 | 800 | |
Three is thick | 3 | 7.14 | 3.37 | 36 | 19 | 800 | |
Four is thick | 2 | 6.5 | 1.0 | 12 | 400 | ||
Rove | 2 | 4.08 | 0.49 | 90 | 26 | Speed of a motor vehicle tooth 35T, backward pull tooth 26T, syringe tooth 55T, the outer second gear of pressurization | |
The end is thick | 2 | 4.18 | 0.23 | 90 | 27 | Speed of a motor vehicle tooth 35T, backward pull tooth 26T, syringe tooth 56T, the outer second gear of pressurization | |
The compact spinning spun yarn | Warp thread: the real number 53s/1 twist 1130T/m that spins twists with the fingers the 90mm that spaces behind No. 26 rollers pressurizations of the S double roving feeding wire loop II shelves; Weft yarn: the real number 40s/1 twist 800T/m that spins twists with the fingers the 85mm that spaces behind No. 26 rollers pressurizations of the Z double roving feeding wire loop II shelves | ||||||
Yarn steaming | 85 ℃ of temperature, 80 minutes time, before, during and after vacuumize for three times | ||||||
The baking yarn | Temperature 60 C, 4 hours time | ||||||
From winder | The speed of a motor vehicle: 900n/min yarn clearing parameter: N350 S160% 2.2cm L50% 40cm |
The high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread that said method processes, through further weave, dyeing and finishing can make hair and wash the herringbone fabric, this fabric feel sliding glutinous, the feel of wool is strong, active flexible, face is bright and clean, smooth, gloss foot is the high-grade classical fabric of Men's Suits, Western-style trousers, leisure, also is Ms's fashion material.
Embodiment six: the cashmere serge
1, kind design
Raw material: wool 90S/ cashmere 10; Ratio: 90%/10%; Yarn count: Dan Jing * single latitude Nm43S/1 * 52S/1; The twist: Dan Jing * single latitude Z 1050 sth. made by twisting/m * Z 990 sth. made by twisting/m; Thread count: through close * 370 * 370/10cm of filling density; The door width of cloth: 152cm; Weight: 260g/m.
2, bar dyes
Technological process: Computer color testing the color matching------pinecone---dyeing---after backwashing of drawing a design. Flow process master operation technique:
1) Computer color testing color matching and assembly hair are drawn a design: with embodiment one.
2) pinecone: the wool pinecone is with embodiment one; Cashmere is the pinecone not, wraps the dyeing of dress cylinder with screen cloth; Or first and wool advance cylinder with certain proportion the mixings pinecone and dye, or interior outer cladding terylene enters dye vat and dyes.
3) dyeing: coloured light: dark blue; Dyestuff: through Computer color testing color matching, wool is selected mordant dyes dyeing, and cashmere selects orchid to receive free and easy dyeing; Dyeing: A, woolen dyed with embodiment one: mordant dyes dyeing; B, cashmere dyeing are with embodiment two.
3) after backwashing: wool, cashmere after backwashing be all with embodiment one, wool after backwashing technique.
3, recombing
Technological process: single comb---silver mixing---scalp acupuncture---two pins---last pin of combing---grilling---(two roads). Main technique:
Feeding (g/m) | Drafting multiple | Front ratch (mm) | The needle plate number | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Remarks | |
Single comb | 184 | 7.4 | 40 | 7 | 24.7 | Add 3001 and crude oil 60g/l needle plate hit 800 times |
Silver mixing | 197.6 | 7.6 | 40 | 7 | 26 | |
Scalp acupuncture | 156 | 7.8 | 40 | 10 | 20 | |
Two pins | 60*2 | 7.5 | 35 | 13 | 8 | |
Combing | 64*2 | 21T | 30 | No. 28, top comb, garden are combed last three rows No. 30 | 16 | |
Grilling | 160 | 8 | 35 | 13 | 20 | Cashmere adds from this operation |
End pin () | 160 | 8 | 35 | 16 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
End pin (two) | 160 | 8 | 35 | 16 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
4, spinning
---pluckings---two is thick, and---three is thick, and---four is thick, and------end is thick, and---rove is deposited, and------yarn steaming---baking yarn---is from winder for compact spinning for rove in technological process: silver mixing (two roads). Main technique: technological parameter
And close (root) | Drawing-off (doubly) | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Roller gauge (mm) | The needle plate number | Needle plate hits (inferior/as to divide) | Remarks | |
Silver mixing (one) | 7 | 7.56 | 20.34 | 35 | 10 | 800 | 3001 and crude oil 50-60g/l |
Silver mixing (two) | 7 | 7.56 | 19.22 | 35 | 10 | 800 | 3001 and crude oil 70-80g/l |
Pluckings | 7 | 7.28 | 18.86 | 35 | 13 | 800 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
Two is thick | 3 | 7.28 | 7.93 | 35 | 16 | 800 | |
Three is thick | 3 | 7.14 | 3.37 | 35 | 19 | 800 | |
Four is thick | 2 | 6.5 | 1.0 | 12 | 400 | ||
Rove | 2 | 4.08 | 0.49 | 85 | 26 | Speed of a motor vehicle tooth 35T, backward pull tooth 26T, syringe tooth |
55T, the outer second gear of pressurization | |||||||
The end is thick | 2 | 4.18 | 0.23 | 85 | 27 | Speed of a motor vehicle tooth 35T, backward pull tooth 26T, syringe tooth 56T, the outer second gear of pressurization | |
The compact spinning spun yarn | Warp thread: the real number 43s/1 twist 1050T/m that spins twists with the fingers the 85mm weft yarn that spaces behind No. 26 rollers pressurizations of the Z double roving feeding wire loop II shelves: the real number 52s/1 twist 990T/m that spins twists with the fingers the 85mm that spaces behind No. 26 rollers pressurizations of the Z double roving feeding wire loop II shelves | ||||||
Yarn steaming | Temperature: vacuumize for three times before, during and after 85 ℃ of 80 minutes times | ||||||
The baking yarn | Temperature: 60 ℃ of 4 hours times | ||||||
From winder | The speed of a motor vehicle: 850n/min yarn clearing parameter: N360 S160% 2.2cm L45% 40cm |
The high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread that said method processes, through further weave, dyeing and finishing can make cashmere serge fabric, this fabric feel fine and smooth, sliding glutinous, active flexible, the cashmere sense strong,, face is bright and clean, smooth, glossy, is successfully the classical high-grade fabric of Men's Suits, Western-style trousers.
Embodiment seven: silk wool fancy suiting
1, kind design
Raw material: wool 90S/ spun silk; Ratio: 85%/15%; Yarn count: Dan Jing * single latitude Nm40S/1 * 48S/1; The twist: Dan Jing * single latitude S 1000 sth. made by twisting/m * S 1000 sth. made by twisting/m; Thread count: through close * 358 * 352/10cm of filling density; The door width of cloth: 153cm; Weight: 270g/m.
2, bar dyes
Technological process: Computer color testing the color matching------pinecone---dyeing---after backwashing of drawing a design. Flow process master operation technique:
1) Computer color testing color matching and assembly hair are drawn a design: all with embodiment one.
2) pinecone: the wool pinecone is with embodiment one; Spun silk: adopt with wool 30-50% with the certain proportion again pinecone, dyeing after gilling machine mixes, or dye but carry out degumming process, dyeing separately; Pinecone technique is with embodiment one.
3) dyeing: coloured light: black, middle grey, coffee color, the colour of camel's hair, cream-coloured; Dyestuff: through Computer color testing color matching, wool, spun silk black, coffee color are all selected mordant dyes dyeing, grey in wool, the spun silk, the colour of camel's hair, cream-colouredly all select orchid to receive free and easy dyeing; Dyeing: wool, spun silk or wool and spun silk elder generation mixed media dyeing technique are all with embodiment one mordant dyes dyeing; But the independent dyeing of spun silk will be carried out first degumming process and dyeing finishes to add the softening agent processing; The first dyed blended end of spun silk or wool and spun silk adds softening agent and processes; Come unstuck and soft technique is seen lower: wool or wool and spun silk mix first orchid and receive free and easy dyeing technique and receive free and easy dyeing technique with embodiment two orchids; But the first dyed blended end of wool and spun silk adds softening agent to be processed; Soft technique is seen lower, and the spun silk orchid receives free and easy dyeing technique:---adding soda ash, transfer PH value to be warming up to 90 ℃ in 9.5---1 ℃/1 minute,------limit is opened the vapour limit and is cooled to 40 ℃, and---------------turn round 10 minutes,--------spilling water is cooled to 40 ℃ clearly excessive---adding softening agent 3%---turned round 20 minutes---and goes out cylinder emptying pin water to be incubated 20 minutes to be warming up to 85 ℃ in 0.5 ℃/1 minute to add dyestuff to add low temperature dyeing accelerant NALD 3%, bleeding agent H E 90042%---running 5 minutes in water inlet be incubated 30 minutes in water inlet.
4) after backwashing: with embodiment one, but the dyed blended after backwashing of spun silk or wool and spun silk, the 4th groove adds softening agent 2kg, and appends once every 2 hours.
3, recombing
Technological process: single comb---silver mixing---scalp acupuncture---two pins---last pin of combing---grilling---(two roads). Main technique:
Feeding (g/m) | Drafting multiple | Front ratch (mm) | The needle plate number | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Remarks | |
Single comb wool spun silk | 178 | 6.9 | 50 | 7 | 25.8 | W50/ spun silk 50 SDF and crude oil 60g/ minute |
Silver mixing | 206.4 | 8.25 | 50 | 7 | 25 | |
Scalp acupuncture | 150 | 7.5 | 50 | 10 | 20 | |
Two pins | 60*2 | 7.5 | 45 | 13 | 8 | |
Combing | 64*2 | 30 | No. 28, top comb, garden are combed last three rows No. 30 | 16 | ||
Grilling | 160 | 8 | 45 | 13 | 20 | 800 beats/mins of faller drops |
Single comb wool | 184 | 8.07 | 50 | 7 | 22.8 | |
Silver mixing | 210 | 7.5 | 50 | 7 | 28 | W85/ spun silk 15 |
Scalp acupuncture | 168 | 8.4 | 45 | 10 | 20 | |
Two pins | 60*2 | 7.5 | 40 | 13 | 8 | |
Combing | 64*2 | 30 | No. 28, top comb, garden are combed last three rows No. 30 | 16 | ||
Grilling | 160 | 8 | 40 | 13 | 20 | 800 beats/mins of faller drops |
End pin () | 160 | 8 | 40 | 16 | 20 | 800 beats/mins of self-regulateds of faller drops are neat and well spaced |
End pin (two) | 120 | 7.5 | 40 | 16 | 16 | 800 beats/mins of self-regulateds of faller drops are neat and well spaced |
4, spinning
---pluckings---two is thick, and---three is thick, and---four is thick, and------end is thick, and---rove is deposited, and------yarn steaming---baking yarn---is from winder for compact spinning for rove in technological process: silver mixing (two roads). Main technique:
And close (root) | Drawing-off (doubly) | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Roller gauge (mm) | The needle plate number | Needle plate hits (inferior/as to divide) | Remarks | |
Silver mixing (one) | 9 | 7.18 | 20.05 | 45 | 10 | 800 | 3001 and crude oil 50-60g/ minute |
Silver mixing (two) | 7 | 7.18 | 19.54 | 45 | 10 | 800 | 3001 and crude oil |
70-80g/ minute | |||||||
Pluckings | 7 | 7.13 | 19.17 | 42 | 13 | 800 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
Two is thick | 3 | 7.13 | 8.06 | 40 | 16 | 800 | |
Three is thick | 3 | 7.0 | 3.46 | 38 | 19 | 800 | |
Four is thick | 2 | 6.53 | 1.06 | 12 | 400 | ||
Rove | 2 | 4.16 | 0.51 | 90 | 26 | Speed of a motor vehicle tooth 35T, backward pull tooth 26T, syringe tooth 54T, the outer second gear of pressurization | |
The end is thick | 2 | 4.25 | 0.24 | 90 | 27 | Speed of a motor vehicle tooth 35T, backward pull tooth 26T, syringe tooth 55T, the outer second gear of pressurization | |
The compact spinning spun yarn | Warp thread: the real number 40s/1 twist 1000T/m that spins twists with the fingers the 90mm weft yarn that spaces behind No. 25 rollers pressurizations of the S double roving feeding wire loop II shelves: the real number 48s/1 twist 1000T/m that spins twists with the fingers the 90mm that spaces behind No. 26 rollers pressurizations of the Z double roving feeding wire loop II shelves | ||||||
Yarn steaming | 85 ℃ of temperature, 80 minutes time, before, during and after vacuumize for three times | ||||||
The baking yarn | Temperature 60 C, 4 hours time | ||||||
From winder | Yarn clearing parameter: N380 S160% 2.2cm L45% 40cm |
The high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread that said method processes, through further weave, dyeing and finishing can make the silk wool fancy suiting fabric, this fabric feel is fine and smooth, smooth, soft, frivolous, the silk quality sense is arranged, face is bright and clean,, silkiness gloss, pattern is novel, color and luster is beautiful, be the excellent fabric of epoch female advanced fashionable dress, suit etc.
Embodiment eight: hair is washed numb serge
1, kind design
Raw material: senior fiber crops of wool 70S/ terylene 2.5D//wash rule; Ratio: 50%/29.1%/20%/0.9%; Yarn count: Dan Jing * single latitude Nm 38S/1 * 44S/1; The twist: Dan Jing * single latitude S 960 sth. made by twisting/m * Z 990 sth. made by twisting/m; Thread count: through close * 328 * 275/10cm of filling density; The door width of cloth: 150cm; Weight: 240g/m.
2, bar dyes
Technological process: Computer color testing the color matching------pinecone---dyeing---after backwashing of drawing a design. Flow process master operation technique:
1) Computer color testing color matching and assembly hair are drawn a design: with embodiment one.
2) pinecone: wool, terylene, the numb pinecone are with embodiment three.
3) dyeing: coloured light: the colour of camel's hair, cream-coloured; Dyestuff: through Computer color testing color matching, the wool colour of camel's hair, cream-colouredly all select orchid to receive free and easy dyeing; The terylene colour of camel's hair, cream-colouredly all select disperse dyeing; The fiber crops colour of camel's hair, cream-colouredly all select reactive dyeing; Dyeing: A, wool orchid receive free and easy dyeing technique with embodiment two: orchid receives free and easy dyeing technique; B, terylene disperse dyeing process are with embodiment two: disperse dyeing process; C, numb reactive dyeing process are with embodiment three: the bamboo fibre reactive dyeing process.
4) after backwashing: respectively with embodiment three, wool, terylene, bamboo fibre after backwashing technique.
3, recombing
Technological process: single comb---silver mixing---scalp acupuncture---two pins---last pin of combing---grilling---(two roads). Main technique:
Feeding (g/m) | Drafting multiple | Front ratch (mm) | The needle plate number | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Remarks | |
Single comb wool | 184 | 7.08 | 50 | 7 | 26 | SDF and crude oil 60g/ minute |
Single comb terylene fiber crops | 200 | 7.69 | 65 | 7 | 26 | T59.3 fiber crops/40.7 rollers pressurization 1.5Mpa |
Silver mixing (one) | 208 | 8 | 55 | 7 | 26 | W50/ washs fiber crops 50 |
Silver mixing (two) | 208 | 8 | 55 | 7 | 26 | |
Scalp acupuncture | 156 | 7.8 | 50 | 10 | 20 | |
Two pins | 60*2 | 45 | 13 | 8 | ||
Combing | 64*2 | 30 | No. 27, top comb, garden are combed last three rows No. 30 | 16 | ||
Grilling | 160 | 8 | 45 | 13 | 20 | |
End pin () | 160 | 8 | 45 | 16 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
End pin (two) | 160 | 8 | 45 | 16 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
4, spinning
---pluckings---two is thick, and---three is thick, and---four is thick, and------end is thick, and---rove is deposited, and------yarn steaming---baking yarn---is from winder for compact spinning for rove in technological process: silver mixing (two roads). Main technique:
And close (root) | Drawing-off (doubly) | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Roller gauge (mm) | The needle plate number | Needle plate hits (inferior/as to divide) | Remarks | |
Silver mixing (one) | 8 | 7.79 | 20.54 | 50 | 10 | 1000 | SDF and crude oil 45-50g/ minute |
Pluckings | 8 | 8 | 20.45 | 46 | 10 | 1000 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
Two is thick | 4 | 7.84 | 10.43 | 42 | 13 | 1000 | |
Three is thick | 3 | 7.73 | 4.05 | 40 | 16 | 1000 | |
Four is thick | 2 | 7.79 | 1.04 | 10 | 600 | ||
Rove | 2 | 4.16 | 0.5 | 95 | 25 | One grade outward of speed of a motor vehicle tooth 39T, backward pull tooth 24T, syringe tooth 53T, pressurization | |
The end is thick | 2 | 4.35 | 0.23 | 95 | 26 | One grade outward of speed of a motor vehicle tooth 39T, backward pull tooth 24T, syringe tooth 54T, pressurization | |
Compact spinning | Warp thread: the real number 38s/1 twist 960T/m that spins twists with the fingers to No. 25 rollers of S double roving feeding wire loop |
Spun yarn | The 95mm weft yarn spaces behind the pressurization II shelves: the real number 44s/1 twist 990T/m that spins twists with the fingers the 95mm that spaces behind No. 26 rollers pressurizations of the Z double roving feeding wire loop II shelves |
Yarn steaming | Temperature: vacuumize for three times before, during and after 90 ℃ of 120 minutes times |
The baking yarn | Temperature: 60 ℃ of 4 hours times |
From winder | Yarn clearing parameter: N350 S160% 2.2cm L45% 40cm bobbin 1.2kg |
The high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread that said method processes, through further weave, dyeing and finishing can make hair and wash numb serge fabric, this fabric feel is smooth, well-pressed, body bone, flexible, frivolous, ventilative is arranged, face is bright and clean, the modern numb texture of tool, color and luster is salubrious, the flower type in good time, be the high-grade fabric of men and women's spring and summer western-style clothes, leisure, fashionable dress, jacket.
Embodiment nine: the two cheviots that play of all woolen herringbone
1, kind design
Raw material: wool 70S/ Lycra 40D; Ratio: 95.56%/4.44%; Yarn count: Dan Jing * single latitude Nm 35S/1 * 35S/1; The twist: Dan Jing * single latitude S 850 sth. made by twisting/m * S 800 sth. made by twisting/m; Thread count: through close * 400 * 320/10cm of filling density; The door width of cloth: 146cm; Weight: 400g/m.
2, bar dyes
Technological process: Computer color testing the color matching------pinecone---dyeing---after backwashing of drawing a design. Flow process master operation technique:
1) Computer color testing color matching and assembly hair are drawn a design: with embodiment one.
2) pinecone: with embodiment one.
3) dyeing: coloured light: purple, yellow green, white; Dyestuff: through Computer color testing color matching, purple, yellow green all select orchid to receive free and easy dyeing; White is selected and is floated mao powder and brightening agent brightens; Dyeing: A, wool orchid receive free and easy dyeing technique with embodiment two: orchid receives free and easy dyeing technique; B, wool white brighten technique: water inlet---heats up 40 ℃ and---adds acetic acid 1%, peregal 0.3%---running 5 minutes and---add brightening agent and---turned round 10 minutes and---be warming up to 80 ℃ in 1 ℃/1 minute and---add and float a mao powder cooling of---being incubated 30 minutes---spilling water, overflow clearly, go out cylinder.
3) after backwashing: with embodiment one.
3, recombing
Technological process: single comb---silver mixing---scalp acupuncture---two pins---last pin of combing---grilling---(two roads). Main technique:
Feeding (g/m) | Drafting multiple | Front ratch (mm) | The needle plate number | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Remarks | |
Single comb | 207 | 8 | 50 | 7 | 25.9 | 3001 and crude oil 60g/l |
Silver mixing | 207 | 7.96 | 50 | 7 | 26 | |
Scalp acupuncture | 156 | 7.8 | 45 | 10 | 20 | |
Two pins | 80*2 | 8 | 40 | 10 | 10 | |
Combing | 100*2 | 26 | No. 25, top comb, garden are combed last three rows No. 28 | 20 | ||
Grilling | 160 | 8 | 45 | 10 | 20 | |
End pin () | 160 | 8 | 40 | 10 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
End pin (two) | 160 | 8 | 40 | 10 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
4, spinning
---pluckings---two is thick, and---three is thick, and---four is thick, and------end is thick, and---rove is deposited, and------yarn steaming---baking yarn---is from winder for compact spinning for rove in technological process: silver mixing (two roads). Main technique:
And close (root) | Drawing-off (doubly) | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Roller gauge (mm) | The needle plate number | Needle plate hits (inferior/as to divide) | Remarks | |
Silver mixing | 7 | 7.56 | 18.52 | 45 | 10 | 800 | 3001 and crude oil 50-60g/l |
Pluckings | 7 | 7.28 | 17.8 | 45 | 13 | 800 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
Two is thick | 3 | 7.18 | 7.44 | 40 | 16 | 800 | |
Three is thick | 3 | 7.13 | 3.13 | 38 | 19 | 800 | |
Four is thick | 2 | 6.52 | 0.96 | 12 | 400 | ||
Rove | 2 | 4 | 0.48 | 85 | 26 | Speed of a motor vehicle tooth 35T, backward pull tooth 26T, syringe tooth 54T, the outer second gear of pressurization | |
The end is thick | 2 | 4 | 0.24 | 85 | 27 | Speed of a motor vehicle tooth 35T, backward pull tooth 26T, syringe tooth 55T, the outer second gear of pressurization | |
The multiple head spinning spun yarn | Spin in fact number 35s/1 twist 850T/m and twist with the fingers 3.5 times of the 85mm Lycra drawing-offs of spacing behind the S bull feeding roller pressurization II shelves | ||||||
Yarn steaming | Temperature: vacuumize for three times before, during and after 85 ℃ of 80 minutes times | ||||||
The baking yarn | Temperature: 60 ℃ of 4 hours times | ||||||
Winder | Yarn clearing parameter: S140% 2.0cm L35% 30cm bobbin 1.2kg |
The high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread that said method processes, through further weave, dyeing and finishing can make the two cheviot fabrics that play of all woolen herringbone, this fabric feel fine and smooth, sliding glutinous, plentiful, soft, cashmere sense, Lycra good springiness (meeting U.S. Du side company standard) are arranged, the sense of hanging down are arranged, the velvet hair evenly, neat, good luster, be the fashion high-grade fabric of men and women's western-style clothes, leisure, fashionable dress etc.
Embodiment ten: Mao Jinshuan bullet serge
1, kind design
Raw material: wool 70S/ polyamide fibre 3D/ Lycra 40D; Ratio: 74.7%/20%/5.3%; Yarn count: Dan Jing * single latitude Nm 36S/1 * 36S/1: the twist: Dan Jing * single latitude S 940 sth. made by twisting/m * Z 940 sth. made by twisting/m; Thread count: through close * 236 * 295/10cm of filling density; The door width of cloth: 150cm; Weight: 325g/m.
2, bar dyes
Technological process: Computer color testing the color matching------pinecone---dyeing---after backwashing of drawing a design. Flow process master operation technique:
1) Computer color testing color matching and assembly hair are drawn a design: with embodiment one;
2) pinecone: with embodiment one, wool pinecone technique;
3) dyeing: coloured light: black; Dyestuff: through the Computer color testing color matching, wool is selected mordant dyes dyeing; Polyamide fibre selects orchid to receive free and easy dyeing; Dyeing: A, woolen dyed with embodiment one, the mordant dyes dyeing; B, nylon dyeing are with embodiment two: orchid receives free and easy dyeing.
4) after backwashing: with embodiment one.
3, recombing
Technological process: single comb---silver mixing---scalp acupuncture---two pins---last pin of combing---grilling---(two roads). Main technique:
Feeding (g/m) | Drafting multiple | Front ratch (mm) | The needle plate number | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Remarks | |
Single comb wool | 184 | 8.5 | 45 | 7 | 21.6 | 3001 and crude oil 60g/l |
Single comb polyamide fibre | 120 | 7 | 60 | 7 | 20 | Pressurization 1.5Mpa |
Silver mixing (one) | 191 | 7.64 | 50 | 7 | 25 | W78.8/ polyamide fibre 21.2 |
Silver mixing (two) | 200 | 8 | 50 | 7 | 25 | |
Scalp acupuncture | 200 | 10 | 50 | 10 | 20 | |
Two pins | 80*2 | 8 | 45 | 10 | 10 | |
Combing | 100*2 | 26 | No. 25, top comb, garden are combed last three rows No. 28 | 20 | ||
Grilling | 160 | 8 | 50 | 10 | 20 | |
End pin () | 160 | 8 | 45 | 10 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
End pin (two) | 160 | 8 | 45 | 10 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
4, spinning
---pluckings---two is thick, and---three is thick, and---four is thick, and------end is thick, and---rove is deposited, and------yarn steaming---baking yarn---is from winder for compact spinning for rove in technological process: silver mixing (two roads). Main technique:
And close (root) | Drawing-off (doubly) | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Roller gauge (mm) | The needle plate number | Needle plate hits (inferior/as to divide) | Remarks | |
Silver mixing (one) | 8 | 7.87 | 20.34 | 45 | 10 | 1000 | 3001 and crude oil 50-60g/ minute |
Pluckings | 7 | 7.4 | 19.22 | 42 | 10 | 1000 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
Two is thick | 3 | 7..28 | 7.92 | 40 | 13 | 1000 | |
Three is thick | 3 | 7.14 | 3.33 | 38 | 16 | 1000 | |
Four is thick | 2 | 6.8 | 0.98 | 10 | 600 | ||
Rove | 2 | 4.26 | 0.46 | 88 | 25 | Speed of a motor vehicle tooth 39T, backward pull tooth 24T, syringe tooth 54T, the outer second gear of pressurization | |
The end is thick | 2 | 4.28 | 0.215 | 88 | 26 | Speed of a motor vehicle tooth 39T, backward pull tooth 24T, syringe tooth 55T, the outer second gear of pressurization |
The multiple head spinning spun yarn | Spinning in fact number 36s/1 twist 940T/m twists with the fingers to space 3 times of 90mm Lycra drafting multiples behind Z weft yarn S bull feeding roller pressurization II shelves |
Yarn steaming | Temperature: vacuumize for three times before, during and after 85 ℃ of 80 minutes times |
The baking yarn | Temperature: 60 ℃ of 4 hours times |
Winder | Yarn clearing parameter: S120% 2.0cm L30% 30cm |
The high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread that said method processes, through further weave, dyeing and finishing can make Mao Jinshuan bullet serge fabric, this fabric feel is satiny, soft, active, Lycra elasticity large, the sense, elegant, smooth of hanging down, face is smooth, good luster, generous, the fashion of dressing are the first-selected fabrics of modern men and women's leisure, fashionable dress, suit.
Embodiment 11: hair is washed the conduction gabardine
1, kind design
Raw material: wool 70S/ terylene 2.5D/ conductive fiber; Ratio: 70%/29.2%/0.8%; Yarn count: Dan Jing * single latitude Nm 36S/1 * 48S/1; The twist: Dan Jing * single latitude S 850 sth. made by twisting/m * Z 880 sth. made by twisting/m; Thread count: through close * 390 * 218/10cm of filling density; The door width of cloth: 149cm; Weight: 276g/m.
2, bar dyes
Technological process: Computer color testing the color matching------pinecone---dyeing---after backwashing of drawing a design. Flow process master operation technique:
1) Computer color testing color matching and assembly hair are drawn a design: with embodiment one;
2) pinecone: with embodiment two, wool, terylene pinecone technique;
3) dyeing: coloured light: dark blue; Dyestuff: through the Computer color testing color matching, wool is selected mordant dyes dyeing; Terylene is selected disperse dyeing; Dyeing: A, woolen dyed with embodiment one: mordant dyes dyeing; B, dyeing terylene are with embodiment two: disperse dyeing process.
4) after backwashing: respectively with embodiment two wools, terylene after backwashing technique.
3, recombing
Technological process: single comb---silver mixing---scalp acupuncture---two pins---last pin of combing---grilling---(two roads). Main technique:
Feeding (g/m) | Drafting multiple | Front ratch (mm) | The needle plate number | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Remarks | |
Single comb wool | 207 | 8.02 | 50 | 7 | 25.8 | SDF and crude oil 60g/ minute |
Single comb terylene | 150 | 6.82 | 60 | 7 | 22 | |
Silver mixing (one) | 220.8 | 8.49 | 50 | 7 | 26 | W70/T30 |
Silver mixing (two) | 208 | 8 | 50 | 7 | 26 | |
Scalp acupuncture | 156 | 7.8 | 45 | 10 | 20 | |
Two pins | 60*2 | 7.5 | 40 | 13 | 8 | |
Combing | 64*2 | 30 | No. 27, top comb, garden are combed last three rows No. 30 | 16 | ||
Grilling | 160 | 8 | 45 | 13 | 20 | Add 0.8% |
Conductive fiber | ||||||
End pin () | 160 | 8 | 40 | 16 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
End pin (two) | 160 | 8 | 40 | 16 | 20 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
4, spinning
---pluckings---two is thick, and---three is thick, and---four is thick, and------end is thick, and---rove is deposited, and------yarn steaming---baking yarn---is from winder for compact spinning for rove in technological process: silver mixing (two roads). Main technique:
And close (root) | Drawing-off (doubly) | Shaping heavy (g/m) | Roller gauge (mm) | The needle plate number | Needle plate hits (inferior/as to divide) | Remarks | |
Silver mixing | 8 | 8.2 | 20.54 | 50 | 10 | 1000 | SDF and crude oil 45-50g/l |
Pluckings | 8 | 8.2 | 20.54 | 46 | 10 | 1000 | Self-regulated is neat and well spaced |
Two is thick | 4 | 8 | 10.43 | 42 | 13 | 1000 | |
Three is thick | 3 | 7.8 | 4.05 | 40 | 16 | 1000 | |
Four is thick | 2 | 7.5 | 1.04 | 10 | 600 | ||
Rove | 2 | 4.08 | 0.5 | 90 | 25 | One grade outward of speed of a motor vehicle tooth 39T, backward pull tooth 24T, syringe tooth 53T, pressurization | |
The end is thick | 2 | 4.18 | 0.23 | 90 | 26 | One grade outward of speed of a motor vehicle tooth 39T, backward pull tooth 24T, syringe tooth 54T, pressurization | |
The compact spinning spun yarn | Warp thread: the real number 36s/1 twist 850T/m that spins twists with the fingers the 95mm weft yarn that spaces behind the S double roving feeding roller pressurization II shelves: the real number 48s/1 twist 880T/m that spins twists with the fingers the 95mm that spaces behind the Z double roving feeding roller pressurization II shelves | ||||||
Yarn steaming | Temperature: vacuumize for three times before, during and after 90 ℃ of 120 minutes times | ||||||
The baking yarn | Temperature: 60 ℃ of 4 hours times | ||||||
From winder | Yarn clearing parameter: N380 S160% 2.0cm L45% 40cm |
The high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread that said method processes, through further weave, dyeing and finishing can make hair and wash conduction gabardine fabric, this fabric feel sliding very, plentiful, active flexible, the body bone arranged, face is bright and clean, smooth, tribute sub full, lines is clear, soft, the nature of gloss, antistatic, not dust suction are that the men and women lies fallow, the fashion high-grade fabric of suit, wind coat and business wear.
Claims (7)
1, high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread, raw material is pure wool, or a kind of in wool and the following 17 kinds of materials or two kinds or three kinds of blending form, terylene, viscose glue, polyamide fibre, cashmere, spun silk, bamboo fibre, flax, ramie, cotton yarn, Tencel, SOLOTEX, Coolmax, Thermolite, T400, bamboo charcoal fiber, Lycra, conductive fiber is characterized in that: the public affairs number of described high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread is 35-60S/1.
2, high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread according to claim 1 is characterized in that: when wool and blend polyester, and wool ratio 〉=20%; When wool and cashmere blending, wool ratio 〉=70%; When wool and silk blending, wool ratio 〉=45 %; When wool and viscose glue or bamboo fibre or Tencel or cotton yarn or flax or ramie or bamboo charcoal fiber blend, wool ratio 〉=45%.
3, high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread according to claim 2 is characterized in that: when adding Lycra in the middle of the raw material, and Lycra ratio≤5%; When adding conductive fiber, conductive fiber ratio≤1%; When adding SOLOTEX or Coolmax or Thermolite or T400, SOLOTEX, Coolmax, Thermolite, T400 ratio are all≤50%.
4,1. the processing method of high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread comprises that raw material is selected, 2. bar dyes recombing, 3. spinning process step, it is characterized in that:
Select in the operation at 1. raw material, raw material is wool, reaches a kind of or two kinds or three kinds of blending in wool and terylene, viscose glue, polyamide fibre, cashmere, spun silk, bamboo fibre, flax, ramie, cotton yarn, Tencel, SOLOTEX, Coolmax, Thermolite, T400, bamboo charcoal fiber, Lycra, the conductive fiber;
Dye in the recombing operation at 2. bar, to wool, cashmere, these animal origins dyeing of spun silk the time, adopt low temperature dyeing technique and low-temp dyeing accelerant, the low temperature dyeing temperature is 80~90 ℃; To the dyeing of fine denier polyester the time, adopt 130 ℃ of high temperature discharge techniques of dyeing pin water, in dyeing course or when the dyeing post processing, add auxiliary agent and dye or post processing;
In 3. spinning process, " compact spinning " or " multiple head spinning " method of employing is spinned, the spinning specification is, public number a: 35-60S/1, and the twist: 800-1400 sth.s made by twisting/m, sth. made by twisting is to Z, S.
5, the processing method of high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread according to claim 4, it is characterized in that: process 2. in the middle of, when cashmere is dyeed, in low temperature dyeing, dyeing is adopted first and wool advances with certain proportion the mixings pinecone that cylinder dyeing, interior outer cladding terylene enter that dye vat dyes or wrap with screen cloth and to enter dye vat and dye; To the dyeing of spun silk the time, in low temperature dyeing, before dyeing, the spun silk bar is carried out first degumming process or adopt spun silk to mix afterwards with certain proportion with wool and dye again.
6, the processing method of high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread according to claim 4, it is characterized in that: process 2. in the middle of, adopt when recombing that little drawing-off after gently quantitative, wide feeding, slow train speed, the front high draft of combing, the combing, principle of readjustment, restructuring, consolidation and improvement are close to reach the larger combing processing technology of spacing of choosing, and take the combing flow process of front four rear pseudo-ginseng road grillings.
7, the processing method of high-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread according to claim 4, it is characterized in that: process 3. in the middle of, adopt the smooth spirit with high resistance static and smooth performance with crude oil, before spin and adopt the silver mixing secondary, dandy roving increases together, perhaps dandy roving adopts technological process and the technique of three rove feedings, makes the single thread Uster sliver reach 5% and above level.
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2006
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